1843

Touranga is said to be finest part of New Zealand; in this vicinity said to be a fine country and much level land about the sea coast, the soil very fertile. Potatoes & Corn are to be found in great abundance. And more flax has been dressed by its natives than by any others on the coast. 150 tons was procured for the Sydney market. Of late they have commenced salting pork. Wood is very scarce, the plains are covered with nothing but fern, the hills being a great distance back, from where they are obliged to get wood. If indolence prevails they gather whatever may come in their way on the sea shore. Pipe clay is plentiful, covered with a very heavy black sand. The Fishermen (natives) are very expert at Touranga, leaving early in the morning and returning late at night with a very great variety of fish, which that Bay is so much noted for its great variety. The whole of the long range of New Zealand Coast is abundantly supplied with beautiful fish. Of this variety of 78 different species, I will name a part, viz. Mango page 41[Mako] shark of many kinds; Wapuku [Hapuku], species of codfish; Wai [Whai], Stingeree; Partiki, flat fish or sole; Rauwarea [Koarea], a snapper; Pareheke, a bream; Kahawai, species of pike; Kawai [Kanae], mullet; Takeke, guard fish; Mohi, sprat or small fish; Tarahika [Tarakihi] marked with a peculiar round spot on each side; Kohika; Raruruma, species of yellow hake mackerel; Anwa [Awa] species of whiting; Tuna, Eel; Runi; Pakerekere [Paekirikiri]; Gora [Koura], Crawfish, similar to a lobster; Cora, Shrimp; Parore, a white fish 6 feet long and 4 inches wide, small tail; small fish like smelts; cuma [Kumakuma], a red fish similar in form to a catfish in the UStates; a small black fish with a very large head is caught in fresh water rivers & swamps, together with other varieties.

South of Touranga 20 miles distance is a small river called Maketu shown by the appellation on the chart as Town Point. This was said to be the seat of war for more than 8 years, occasioned by a worthless vagabond, (a European), living amongst them collecting Flax for a mercantile house in Sydney, NSW. He putting himself on a footing with the Chiefs, allowing his hair and beard to grow long, and occasionally tatooed, assuming the authority of king, proclaiming himself as such. This was done with the spirit of monopoly, monopolizing the trade to himself, causing much bloodshed and loss of life. It is estimated that 1300 natives lost their lives through this degraded vagabond. In 1838 they, the natives, from some cause, took a very great dislike to him. So great was there hatred (passing from one extreme to another) that it was almost impossible for him to obtain a basket of potatoes, without paying a large price for them, notwithstanding the many thousand pounds Sterling in trade they have had from him.

This small river takes its origin from a very large lake called Rotua Ruha [Rotorua] about 30 miles inland from the seacoast, is about 20 miles in length and very deep, with an Island in the centre, in war made use of as a Pa on account of a number of cateracts obstructing this river; preventing canoes from entering the lake. There are many hot springs at this place, and some small rivulets, while others are large holes. Over some of these the natives build houses and live in them during the winter months, for convenience have openings through which they let down potatoes or whatever they have to cook, and in a short time they have them ready for a meal.

page 42

Hogs are scald and cleaned in that way as also cooked in a very short time. The natives are of a much lighter complexion than those from a few miles distant (perhaps bleached living in the sulphur district), for sulphur can be obtain[ed] here in any quantity. Many parts are still on fire and shift as the wind. It is often the case these fires break out in fresh places in the ground. The natives are very careful not to walk much in the night for fear of accident. In many instances people are so scald[ed] that the skin comes of[f] their legs and feet. The land near the lake is supposed to be the best in all New Zealand, the potatoes & cumeras are very large, flax in abundance.

It is said by those who have a knowledge of it, that in 1838 the natives commenced making gunpowder, with the assistance of a runaway convict from one of the penal settlements. They succeeded so far in making it as to get six charges to be of about the same strength as the foreign would be in one. This would not answer their purpose and their instructor in powder making was obliged to leave after having been fully tattooed as payment for his information. The natives of this place (Muketu) differ in size from those about the Bay of Islands. They are tall compared with those of the north and have prominent foreheads, many of the women have light hair and very small feet, doubtless owing to being confined to their Pa's and walk [more] seldom than any other natives and quite often in the water. A mission station was formed at the place some few years since, previously to 1838. They too use the hot springs water for all purposes which is taken from a hole in their garden. Farther south the natives are not so numerous and more scattered living in small tribes and on the sea coast. Between Town Point & Cape Runaway there are only 3 or 4 harbours containing a population of 600 or 700 natives at each place.

The seacoast is mostly sand with bard [barred] harbours, only capable for small vessels to enter. The natives of these places were very treacherous often seizing small vessels and detain[ing] them taking property to a large amount. Should a vessel be so unfortunate as to get aground, going in or out of either of those places she is free for plunder and considered a lawful prize. Very many instances of this conduct as well as lives lost, but seldom if ever chastized for so doing. Antecedently to 1838 a vessel was cast ashore, the vessel and cargo to the amt. of £2000, equal $10,000. and all page 43destroyed. Their treatment to the people not of the mildest type, their flesh eaten & their bones used for ornaments, converted into weapons of warfare and tools. Many of the crew compelled to carry on their backs a burden of 100 lbs the distance of 4 or 5 miles, after having been washed about in the surf for 10 hours. Many a shipwreckt mariner in gone by days have fallen victims to their hellish cannibal propensities, adequate to the barbareans of the coast of Barbary, considering all captives slaves if their lives were spared. Even were a native canoe passing by overtaken by a gale, and is driven onshore taken and the natives or whites secured as slaves, or murdered, quartered & eaten, the eyes gouged out, and the head posted on a pole. Brutes, Brutes, Brutes, Yes! hellish brutes. The reader will bear in mind that they have always held slaves, and still continue so to do.

I have conversed with a Gent, that was an eye witness, visiting a beach in search of a harbour, he found that a canoe had been driven ashore, the men or women killed, 2 fires burning with fragments of their bodies laying on the coals cooking, and the others building fires to cook their own bodies, one torn limb from limb. The sight was appalling and heart rending indeed. Very few of the high bloods or royal family but that have and hold slaves. The Gent. already spoken of came near meeting the fate of those poor just described; a party of natives lay in ambush, concealed ready to cut him off when they (the Europeans had expended their powder shooting birds) at this moment their boat came on shore and relieved them from the danger already described. They were not aware of their situation until they ran out of the bush and shewd themselfs, but so great was the cowardice of the natives that 2 of the white men put 6 of them armed with spears to flight. The next vessel that came within their sight was a small craft from Sydney, a Brig, taken by the natives and a part of the crew murdered, the remainder made their escape in a boat in the Bay of Plenty.

Of the Islands in the Bay of Plenty the first or northernmost one is Mairs Island [Mayor or Tuhua Island], high, sandy & covered with wood with a population of 200 natives subsisting chiefly on fish and mutton birds. When they are fearful of their enemies they retire to a flat top hill which is composed of loose rocks etc. These they tumble down on their enemies (that attempt to attack them) with great vengeance & effect. This island was page 44formerly volcanic, having a large lagoon in the centre, doubtless has been the crater. The next or inner island in the Bay is Flat Isld a little south of Touranga, is at present uninhabited, capable of cultivation, fine land of rich soil but no harbours. A small vessel can anchor between the island and the main, however the holding ground is not good being rocky bottom, known by the appelation of Moutohora [Motuhora] lays about 7 miles from the mainland, highly elevated and one part is on fire, immense quantities of sulpher can be had (large cargoes). Around its shores are found excellent fish, and the natives frequently go from the main for that purpose. It has been noted and remarkable for black whale in great numbers. Whaling parties have been fitted out at very great expense, and often in danger of losing all their property. One season one whaling party was unsuccessful and came away leaving their property to whomsoever might think proper to use it. A rock about the size of a whale boat lies between Mair Island and Flat Island in a direct line between the two about midway.

Fourth Island, so called, White Isld [Whakari], has a volcanoe which is constantly burning, and issuing from it a very great smoke, which is often noticed to increase before a gale. It has a very large crater in the centre, running in from the east side. The level of the mouth of this crater is not more than 4 feet from the level of the sea. Here are to be found many kinds of variegated stones, with sulphur in large quantity. Pumice stone is also floating about the island, which must have been thrown out. It would be impossible for any person to remain on this island any great length of time (say a few hours) as the smell of sulphur is so exceedingly strong. The north part is covered with a scrub, and very bold water around the island, one or two small pyrimid rocks lay at some distance from it.

From Cape Runaway to the East Cape their are no natives, they have been killed of[f] by the tribes from the Bay of Plenty. At the East Cape but few natives, very poor but little to dispose of. The Bays round the cape are very open and much exposed to gales. Shipping are very cautious how they enter them as several vessels have been lost on the coast. The natives have been numerous and bad. Whaling establishments have commenced since the year 1838. Some have been very successful, while others have been unfortunate. I have no doubt in my own mind had [it] not been for indolence page 45and levity, inebriation and lasciviousness, all parties would have been successful for the coast abounds in whales. Land about the east cape is good and level near the sea coast. Potatoes none can be better. The corn resembles that of New England. Flax is fine and in abundance but not so white as that in the Bay of Plenty. Vessels should be cautious at all times how they approach the land near the East Cape as the wind is very uncertain and a very bad sea in all the bays round as far as Port Nicholson.

In 1838 it is said that a correct account of the number of natives was not given. Previously to the year 1838 or about the year 1834 the English Bark Harriett, coming from Sydney and bound for Cloudy Bay was wrecked at Taranaki on the West Coast and several of her crew were killed by the natives of that place. I happened to be in Sydney when the news reach[ed] there of her fate. Capt. Lambert of the English Man of War "Aligator" almost immediately got under way and proceeded for the place where the ill-fated ship lay, and gave the natives a most severe chastising, that they will long remember. When the 'Harriett' was wrecked the natives took the Capt's wife and carried her some way away. The Capt and part of the crew escaped and arrived at the Bay of Islands. The Man of War or rather Capt. Lambert rescued the woman from her sufferings and perilous situation. The natives finding themselves so treated by the English as also by the natives of Waicato [Waikato], who, proceeded after the Ship of War had been there, and gave them a most dreadful beating. Finding they were losing ground on all sides they left Taranaki, and took up their line of march overland to Port Nicholson, where they remained for some time, in fear and dread of Roubulla [Te Rauparaha] (one of the most noted chiefs on either shore of Cook Straits). Anxious to leave the coast, the first vessel that entered the Port after was the Brig 'Lord Rodney' from Sydney, Capt. B. Harwood. This unprincipled man entered into an agreement to take them to the Chatam Islands for which he was to receive Powder, Pork, Whale Bone and other things.

The Capt suspecting that this might lead to an enquiry concocted a statement to say that they had taken his Brig from him compelling him to take the savages whereever they thought proper. He then landed his second mate to salt pork during his absence. When a part of them embarked page 46(say about 200) the Brig set sail and landed them at the Chatam Islds, returning took the remainder; in all about 500 natives, being well paid for his trouble and returned on the coast again to complete his cargo. As soon as these New Zealanders arrived at the Chatam Islands they commenced killing and feasting on the strangers of the latter Islds., a poor harmless race of natives (some hundreds) and actually lived on them until they had provided themselfs with other food. A shipmaster was their to procure seal skins. The original number of natives was said to be 700. And the 'Rebecca Sims' Whaler of New Bedford was there since and reported that only about 150 of the first number of natives were alive. The remainder were killed off to satisfy the cravings of their cannibal appetites. The few left are badly treated by the New Zealanders. They afterwards took the French whaler 'John Bart' and it is supposed that every individual on board was murdered. A French Man of War proceeded in company with the 'RS' from New Zealand for the purpose of chastising them. After killing 2 or 3 they captured a chief and took him home to France.

Proceeding from the East Coast, doubling the North Cape of New Zealand, after passing Cape Maria Van Dieman, is the spacious river Hokianga bard at its mouth, but very little known or frequented until the year 1825. I was informed that the first English vessel was from the Bay of Islands (or about that date). She was a small craft of about 10 or 20 tons burthen. The American brig 'Cosack' went from the Bay of Islands to that place (Hokianga) in the year 1822 to procure provisions for her cruise to the North West Coast, arriving there, securing a supply of everything required. She left proceeding down the River. Unfortunately for her, when on the bar, going down the River, the wind died to a calm. She drove on shore and broke to pieces, but the crew were saved, and came over land to the Bay of Islands, and left in different vessels. Vessels should be careful not to get too far in, as there is always a very heavy swell heaving up from the south after a gale. It often happens that the wind dies away when near the bar, when the vessel becomes unmanageable. Hokianga from the mouth to the head of the tide, distance of about 30 miles; the banks mostly covered with timber, here and there a small valley cultivated by the natives. But little or no flat land on either side of the river. Its navigable 20 miles page 47up it, for vessels of any size. The principal chiefs are Nalua, Nene, Putone. Nene remains at the Bay of Islands in consequence of some family disagreements. Tamati, Purae, Tawni and many others.