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Chapter I.
Madeira.

THe command of the Exploring Expedition devolved upon me, by orders from the Hon Mahlon Dickerson, then Secretary of the Navy, on the 20th of March, 1838. On the 17th of August I received my sailing instructions, and final orders to put to sea the moment I was ready; and on the 18th we sailed Our squadron was composed of the following vessels. The Vincennes, a sloop of war, of 780 tons; the Peacock, a sloop of war, of 650 tons, the Porpoise, a gun-brig, of 32 tons; the tender Sea-Gull, of 110 tons, the tender Flying Fish, of 96 tons, and the Relief, a new vessel, originally intended as a store-ship for the navy

Orders were given to rendezvous, in case of separation, at Madeira. It was soon found, in the trial of the sailing qualities of the vessels, that the Relief was unsuited to act with the rest without page 2great detention, and after four days I determined to part company with her, giving her orders to proceed to the Cape de Verdes.

On the 25th of August our winds became favourable, and we were enabled to lay our course towards Madeira. I continued to keep the direction of the Gulf-stream towards the Western Islands. "We felt its influence until we reached the longitude of 48° W., and found it to set for the last few days to the northward of east. The winds had been light and the sea smooth, indicating no other impulse than the flow of the stream. The temperature gradually decreased from 83° to 75°.

On the night of the 26th we parted company with the Peacock and Flying-Fish in a squall, and did not again meet them until we reached Madeira. The 5th of September, being near the reported shoal of St. Anne, I determined to pass over its position.

On the 6th we passed over it, the sea was smooth, the horizon clear, and the day beautiful. At eight a.m. the look-out cried out, "Rocks or a wreck on the starboard bow!" which at once created an excitement on board. We stood for it. It had at first every appearance of a rock, then that of a wreck with the masts gone. It proved, however, to be a large tree of cotton-wood, one hundred and twenty feet in height, and fourteen feet in circumference at the height of five feet above the roots. It had been a long time in the water, was full of barnacles, and much eaten by the Teredo navalis. Great quantities of fish were about it, consisting of dolphins, sharks, &c. We did not, however, succeed in taking any. In rough weather it might easily have been mistaken for a rock, particularly if passed in twilight, or at night.

On the 15th, as we were making sail, George Porter, one of our maintop-men, in loosing the top-gallant sail, was caught by the bunt-line, and dragged over the yard, where he was seen to hang, as it were quite lifeless, swinging to and fro by the neck.

On the alarm being given, two men ran aloft to his assistance. It now became doubtful on deck whether they would not be all dragged over by the weight of his body, until several others gave assistance and relieved them. It caused a breathless anxiety to us all to see a fellow-being in the momentary expectation that he would be clashed to the deck. He was fortunately rescued, and brought below, yet living. Here he speedily came to his senses, and recollecting that the drum had rolled to grog just before his accident, he, sailor-like, asked for his portion. It was truly a providential escape. This young man died on our way home, in the China seas, of an inflammatory fever.

On the 16th we made the island of Madeira, and having a strong westerly wind, I determined to pass to Funchal, on its southern side. This may be done at this season, but vessels bound to that port usually prefer going round the eastern point of the island. When off the western point of Madeira, we experienced a very long, heavy swell, which gave me an opportunity of trying the velocity of the waves, by noting the time the same wave was passing between the vessels. The result gave twenty-three miles per hour, but I was not altogether satisfied with it. It was difficult to page 3measure the correct angle subtended by the Porpoise's masts for the distance, on account of the motion of both vessels. The measure-ment of the height of the waves I found still more difficult, and the results varied too much to place confidence in them, principally owing to each succeeding swell or wave being less than the preceding one. The different observations gave from twenty-five to fourteen feet; the width of the wave, from the same cause, was equally variable, and each successive result varied from that which preceded it.

Before sunset we cast anchor in company with the Porpoise and Sea-Gull, and were the next morning joined by the Peacock and Flying-Fish.

Shortly after coming to anchor, we were boarded by the health officer, with the captain of the port, who, on being assured of our good health, gave us permission to land. The United States' consul, Henry John Burden, Esq., also came on board, and kindly offered us all the attention that lay in his power.

The first appearance of Madeira did not come up to the idea we had formed of its beauties from the glowing description of travellers. It exhibited nothing to the distant view but a bare and broken rock, of huge dimensions, which, though grand and imposing, is peculiarly dark and gloomy, and it was not until we had made our way close under the land, that we could discover the green patches which are everywhere scattered over its dark red soil, even to the tops of the highest peaks.

The mountain verdure was afterwards discovered to be owing to groves of heath and broom, which grow to an extraordinary height, aspiring to the stature of forest trees. In addition to these groves, the terraced acclivities, covered with a luxuriant tropical vegetation, change on a closer approach its distant barren aspect into one of extreme beauty and fertility.

The most striking peculiarity in the mountain scenery is the jagged outline of the ridge, the rudely shaped towers and sharp pyramids of rock, which appear elevated on the tops and sides of the highest peaks as well as on the lower elevations, and the deep, precipitous gorges, which cut through the highest mountains almost to their very base.

The shores of the island are mostly lofty cliffs, occasionally facing the water with a perpendicular front one or two thousand feet in height. The cliffs are interrupted by a few small bays, where a richly cultivated valley approaches the water between abrupt precipices, or surrounded by an amphitheatre of rugged hills. These narrow bays are the sites of the villages of Madeira.

As we sailed along from its western end, we occasionally saw, in these quiet and peaceful situations, small white-walled villages, each with its little church at the outlet of the gorges. We were particularly struck with that of the Camera de Lobos, a few miles to the westward of Santa Cruz hill. This is the largest, and is the most interesting of any, from its having been the first point settled by Europeans. The high precipices were new to us Americans: so different from what we are accustomed to in the United States. page 4The scene was still more striking, and our attention was more forcibly arrested, when passing under cliffs of some sixteen hundred feet above us. We were so near them that the sound of the surf was distinctly heard. The whole effect of the view was much heightened by a glowing sunset in one of the finest climates in the world.

Off the eastern cape of the island, many isolated rocks were seen separated from the land, with bold, abrupt sides and broken outlines. The character of these rocks is remarkable; they stand quite detached from the adjoining cliffs, and some of them rise to a great height in a slender form, with extremely rugged surfaces and broken edges. Through some, the waters have worn arched ways of large dimensions, which afford a passage for the breaking surf, and would seem to threaten ere long their destruction.

Similar needle-form rocks are seen off the northern Deserta, an island lying some miles east of Madeira. One of them is often mistaken for a ship under sail, to which when first seen it has a considerable resemblance. It stands like a slender broken column, several hundred feet in height, on a base scarcely larger than its summit.

Funchal has a very pleasing appearance from the sea, and its situation, in a kind of amphitheatre formed by the mountains, adds to its beauty. The contrast of the white buildings and villas with the green mountains, forms a picture which is much heightened by the bold quadrangular Loo Rock, with its embattled summit commanding the harbour in the foreground.

The island throughout is rough and mountainous, but the steeps are clothed with rich and luxuriant verdure. Terraces are visible on every side, and every spot that the ingenuity of man could make available has been apparently turned to advantage, and is diligently cultivated. These spots form an interesting scene, particularly when contrasted with the broken and wild background, with the white cottages clustered at the sea-shore, and gradually extending themselves upwards until the eye rests on the highest and most striking building, that of the convent of Nostra Senora de Monte.

Through the western half of the island runs a central ridge, about five thousand feet high, on which is an extensive plain, called Paul de Serra, which is mostly overgrown, and is used especially for breeding mules and horses. The eastern portion of the island, though quite elevated, is less so than the western.

The valleys usually contain a strip of land of extreme fertility, through which winds the bed of a streamlet, that becomes a mountain torrent in the rainy seasons, but is nearly or quite dry in summer.

The landing at Funchal is on a stony beach, and is accompanied with some little difficulty, partly on account of the surf, but more from the noise, confusion and uproar made by the native boatmen in their efforts to drag their boat up on the beach. This operation they however understand, and are well accustomed to, and those who desire to land dry, will be wise to employ them.

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On the 17th, we paid our respects, with a large party of officers, to the civil governor, the Baron de Lordello, field-marshal in the army, and administrator-general of the province of Madeira and Porto Santo; and also to the military governor, Jose Teixcera Rebello, colonel in the army, and commandant of the district.

His excellency, Baron Lordello, resides in the government house, or palace, which is a large quadrangular building, occupied in part as barracks. His suite of apartments fronts the bay, and enjoys a beautiful view of it; they also have the enjoyment of the inbat or sea-breeze. They are very large and but meagrely furnished. Around the large ante-room are hung the portraits of all the civil, ecclesiastical, and military governors, which form an imposing array of hard outline, stiff figures and faces, with a variety of amusing costume. Those of later years which have been hung up, are not calculated to give very exalted ideas of the standing of the present Portuguese school of portrait painting.

His excellency, the Baron Lordello, received us very courteously. Out audience, however, was extremely formal. After a few mono-syllabic questions and answers, we took our leave, and the Baron did us the honour to see us through the ante-room to the hall of entrance, where we parted with many bows.

Our next visit was to the military governor, Señor Rebello, who occupied a small apartment at the opposite end of the building. This was not large enough to accommodate us all, and chairs were wanting for many. The manner and ease of the occupant made full amends. Ceremony and form were laid aside; he seemed to enter warmly into our plans and pleasures, and evinced a great desire to do us service.

The streets of the town are very narrow, without side-walks, and to our view like alleys, but their narrowness produces no inconvenience. They are well paved, and wheel-carriages are unknown. The only vehicle, if so it may be called, is a sledge, of some six feet in length, about twenty inches wide, and only six or eight inches high, on which are transported the pipes of wine. Two strips of hard wood are fastened together for runners.

This sledge is dragged by two very small oxen, and slips easily on the pavement, which is occasionally wetted with a cloth. It is no doubt the best mode of transportation in Funchal, for their wine, on account of the great steepness of their streets. Smaller burthens are transported on men's shoulders, or in hampers and baskets, on the backs of donkeys.

I was surprised to learn that all misdemeanours are referred for trial to Portugal, and that persons having committed small crimes are kept for years without any disposition being made of them by those in authority. They are maintained at the expense of the complainant, consequently crime is scarcely noticed or complained of. On the one hand, it makes the punishment very severe, and on the other, persons are inclined to take the law into their own hands against petty thefts. It is impossible to avoid many painful sights in passing the prisons. Caps on sticks are thrust through the iron gratings, and requests are made for alms, first in beseeching page 6tones, and afterwards, if nothing is given, one is pained with hearing cries of execration. The occupants are in keeping with the premises, and did not fail to excite both our commiseration and disgust.

On proceeding out of Funchal, fruits, flowers, and vegetables seem crowding upon the sight; in the lower portions, groves of orange and lemon trees are mingled with the vineyards, the trees are loaded with fruit; then, as one mounts higher, bananas, figs, pomegranates, &c., are seen; and again, still higher, the fruits of the tropics are interspersed with those of the temperate zone, viz. apples, currants, pears, and peaches, while the ground is covered with melons, tomatoes, egg-plant, &c. Farther beyond, the highest point of cultivation is reached, where the potato alone flourishes. Then the whole lower portion is spread before the eye. Vineyards, occupying every spot that is susceptible of improvement; and one rides through paths hedged in with geraniums, roses, myrtles, and hydrangeas. These plants, which we had been accustomed to consider as the inhabitants of our parlours and greenhouses, are here met with in gigantic forms, and as different from our small, sickly specimens as can well be imagined.

Every one who visits Madeira should see the Curral. It is a very remarkable spot, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to give an idea of its beauty and grandeur. This place is approached by the usual ascent from Funchal, through the narrow roads, or paths hedged with roses, &c., the view gradually extending beneath, over the terraced vineyards. Just before reaching it you mount a small ascent; you are then on the summit or edge of the Curral, and the whole scene suddenly bursts upon you. The eye descends to the depth of two thousand feet, into the immense chasm below, and wanders over the ragged and broken outlines of the many peaks that rise from its very bottom; then upwards, following the gray precipitous rocks, till their summits are lost in the clouds, which are passing fitfully across it, occasionally permitting the sunbeams to glance to its very bottom. The whole looks more like enchantment than reality. The shape of the Curral and its perpendicular sides give the idea rather of a gorge than of a crater.

The islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, under the new constitution, promulgated in 1836, were included in one district, called "Districto-administrative do Funchal." It contains ten councils, in which are forty-five parishes. The population, according to the census taken in 1836, amounted to 115,447 souls; the English population to 108 families, numbering 324 souls.

The revenue of the island is stated to be about 210,000 dollars per annum. That portion which is derived from the customs, is about one-half, or 110,000 dollars. The remainder is from taxes and tithes.

There are about five thousand proprietors of the soil, of whom no more than six hundred and fifty live on their rents; and there are about four hundred who receive government salaries.

Mendicants are numerous, and one is much tormented with them from the very moment of landing. It is surprising to find them so page 7importunate in so fine an island, and where the necessaries of life ought to abound.

Wine is the staple commodity: the produce during the year 1837 was 14,150 pipes. The export the year previous to our visit amounted to 8435 pipes, of which about 3800 pipes went to the United States. The inhabitants of Madeira are much alive to and justly jealous of the reputation of their wines, which are generally the engrossing topic of conversation. An amusing excitement existed during our visit. A London paper (The Times) had asserted, that foreign wine had frequently been introduced into Madeira, and afterwards exported as the genuine article, to the United States in particular; and what gave more force to the story, it was stated as a fact, that 70 pipes had lately been entered, at the expense of 1000 dollars, and remanufactured. Everybody was up in arms. The commercial association of Funchal passed resolutions denouncing the publication in strong terms, as designed by certain interested persons to injure the reputation of the wine of Madeira. So strict are the laws to prevent frauds, that even genuine Madeira, after being once shipped, cannot be returned to the island. I heard, however, of an attempt, and but one, to smuggle in Teneriffe and Fayal wines, which was discovered. The casks were broken, the wine destroyed, the boats confiscated, and the smuggler condemned to be transported to the coast of Africa.

The people are industrious, sober, and civil, and although ignorant, I should think happy. There is little, if any, mixed blood among them. They are of the old Arabian stock. Tree negroes are seen. Dark hair, eyes, and complexion, are most common; but much diversity in form and feature, and in the colour of the hair, exists. The character of the features of the inhabitants is usually rather a broad face, high cheek-bones, and pointed nose, full lips, good teeth, and retreating chin. The men are very muscular, rather above the middle height, strongly built, and capable of enduring great fatigue. We all agreed that the women were particularly ugly, which is to be imputed in part to the hard labour required of them. The two sexes do not appear to belong to the same race.

The men of the lower order are dressed in a kind of loose trowsers (cuecas), descending as far as the knee, with a shirt or jacket of a gaudy colour. Both sexes wear a kind of cap (carapuca), of very small dimensions, tied under the chin. Its use is not readily conceived, as it is only a few inches in diameter at its base, and terminates in a conical top, like an inverted funnel.

The women wear bodices, with short petticoats of a variety of colours, in stripes. They have usually shoes and stockings, but they generally go barefooted, with these articles tied in a small bundle, to be put on when they wish to appear fine. The children are poorly clad, have but one garment, and that dirty.

The habitations of the lower order would be called huts in our country. They are composed of walls of stone, about five or six feet high, with a roof rising on all sides to a central pole; are thatched with straw or broom, and contain only one room. The only aperture for light and smoke is the door. There is but little necessity for page 8chimneys, as fire is seldom required. It is said that in the northern part of the island, some of the peasants make their habitation in caves or excavations on the hillside.

In the town of Funchal there are many elegant establishments, and much luxury among the higher classes, but the poorer classes are lodged miserably. The houses are generally of one story, of which the exterior is well kept, being neatly whitewashed; but the interior is anything but comfortable. They have but one entrance. The floors are paved with round stone, and the walls are of rough stone, presenting no better an appearance than our wood-cellars. The furniture is scanty, and of the coarsest kind.

Travelling is performed in sedan-chairs. This mode is always considered the safest for ladies, particularly in crossing the mountains. Horses and mules are seldom used. On leaving Funchal for the country, it is one continued ascent between high stone walls, these forming abutments to the terraces, which are covered with vines, and afford protection from the sun. After reaching the hills, one enjoys a delightful view of the beautiful gardens. The roadsides are lined throughout with flowers, (to us, those of the green-house,) among them Fuchsias, digitalis, rose geraniums, Punica granata, Rosa indica coccinea, Hydrangea hortensis, mixed with box-trees, myrtles, &c.

The valleys are covered with the Belladonna lily, and the mountain-passes cannot be compared to anything more appropriate than to a rich flower-garden left to grow wild. Added to all this, a climate which resembles our finest spring weather.

Such of the peasantry as do not gain a subsistence in the vineyards, have usually a small patch of ground which they cultivate, raising grain, corn, potatoes, and the taro (Arum esculentum), in quantities barely sufficient to eke out a scanty living. The cultivation is commonly performed by hand, although a plough of very simple construction is sometimes used. Many of the peasantry are employed as carriers, and one is much struck by their numbers when entering Funchal early in the morning, with sheep-skins filled with wine on their shoulders, that look at a distance more like the live animal than a filled skin. These skins are preserved as entire as possible, even the legs of the animal being retained. They are generally kept steady by a band that passes over the forehead, which supports a great part of the weight. About twenty-five gallons, weighing more than two hundred pounds, is a load. They move rapidly, and carry this load five miles for a mere trifle. To us, one of the most remarkable features in the population was to see a female not only thus employed, but a stout mountain lass trudging up a steep path with ease, under a load that would have staggered one of our labourers even for a short distance.

The manner of expressing the juice I have nowhere seen particularly described; and although a description of it may not add a relish to the cup, yet it will show the manufacture as conducted according to the old custom, at the present day. A friend of our consul was obliging enough to show us his works, and the machinery for expressing the juice from the grape. It was in a page 9rude sort of shed. On our approach we heard a sort of song, with a continued thumping, and on entering, saw six men stamping violently in a vat of six feet square by two feet deep, three on each side of a huge lever beam, their legs bare up to the thighs. On our entrance they redoubled their exertions, till the perspiration fairly poured from them; the vat had been filled with grapes, and by their exertions we were enabled to see the whole process. After the grapes had been sufficiently stamped, and the men's legs well scraped, the pulp was made into the shape of a large bee-hive, a rope made of the young twigs of the vine being wound around it. The lever was then used, which has a large stone or rock attached to it by a screw. The juice flows off, and is received in tubs. The produce of the press is, on an average, about fifty gallons daily. Each gallon requires about ten bushels of grapes. The taste is very much like sweet cider. The process is anything but pleasing, and endeavours have been made by English residents to substitute machinery, but the prejudices, vexations, and difficulties experienced, have caused them to give up the attempt. The general average is from one to three pipes of wine per acre, annually.

The south side of Madeira, as is well known, although not the most fertile, produces the finest wines. Every point which can be cultivated successfully, is attended to, and earth is brought to increase the soil from other parts. The kinds of grapes are various, and the wines manufactured as numerous. The common Madeira is obtained from a mixture of Bual, Verdelho, and Negro Molle grapes; the Malmsey and Sercial, from grapes of the same name. There is a great difference in the spots, and peculiar exposure, where the vine grows; and different kinds of wine are produced, according to the state of maturity to which the grape is allowed to arrive at before being gathered. After being expressed, it is put into casks, undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified with gypsum or isinglass, and a small portion of brandy is added, two or three gallons to the pipe.

The deportment of the lower classes is a mixture of politeness and servility. They invariably noticed us in passing by taking off the cap; and on receiving anything, kissed their hands, or made some other respectful salutation.

The language spoken in Madeira is Portuguese, but with a rapid utterance, or rather, clipping or abbreviating of their words and expressions.

The ignorance of the common people seems great. Few can read, and still fewer write. It is said they are acquainted with no more than three coins, all of which are Spanish, namely, dollars, pistareens, and bits, and that many kinds of Portuguese coins current in Lisbon, will not pass in Madeira. The want of a small description of money is much felt.

The markets are well supplied with meat, poultry, fish, and all kinds of vegetables.

The bat noticed by Bowdich was the only one of the mammalia seen in a wild state. Of birds, two species of hawks, the linnet, the canary, the goldfinch, the yellow wagtail, and the swift, were allt page 10that were seen. Sea-fish are abundant; but not a single trace of a fresh-water fish was seen or found in the streams. Many specimens of crustacea, insects, and mollusca, were added to our collections.

The ride to the Quinta of Mr. Bean, at Comancha, is one of the prettiest the island affords. It is towards the east end, and some eight or ten miles from the town of Funchal. For variety of scenery and the beauty of its grounds, it is not exceeded by any on the island; and it gives a good idea of the effect of English taste when applied to the scenery and fine climate of Madeira. The road to it is the same that has been before described, passing through the gorges and around the different spurs, which gives great variety to it, and presents many fine views. Having a note of introduction from our consul, we stopped at Mr. Bean's gate, and sent the servant in, who returned, informing us that Mr. Bean was not at home, but a kind invitation to enter was sent to us from his lady. We did so, riding through hedges of Fuchsias and myrtles twelve feet high, when a beautiful little cottage, on a small, level spot, burst suddenly upon our view, with its verandahs embosomed in creeping vines; and from the notes of various kinds of birds, one could almost have fancied oneself in an aviary. Several small lakes were partially seen, their dimensions being ingeniously hid from view. On one of them was seen a tiny fleet safely moored, on another waterfalls, &c.; the banks of others were surrounded with aquatic plants, among which was the Calla Ethiopica, in full bloom. Then again we were struck with the dahlias, geraniums, roses, and jasmines, and the varieties of trees and shrubs from the tropics, besides willows, oaks, elms, &c., that were familiar to us. A view through the trees down the gorge to the distant ocean was beautiful, bringing before us all the bold scenery of Madeira.: truly it was an enchanting spot. The grounds are extensive, and laid out with great taste, and each spot appeared in keeping with the whole. The hill behind the house was found by the sympiesometer to be two thousand and ninety-eight feet above the level of the sea.

After a stay of a week, we prepared for our departure.