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Port Molyneux : the story of Maori and pakeha in South Otago : a centennial history : commemorating the landing of George Willsher and his companions at Willsher Bay, June 28, 1840 : with a programme for the unveiling of the centennial cairn, erected by the Clutha County Council, June 28, 1940

Chapter IV. — The Landing at Willsher Bay

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Chapter IV.
The Landing at Willsher Bay.

The year 1940 is in every sense a centennial year for South Otago. For a definite settlement was established at Port Molyneux in the year 1840.

Starting from a base of definite local knowledge, by making inquiries in Sydney and elsewhere; by searching newspaper files in Sydney, Wellington, Dunedin, Invercargill, and Balclutha: by investigating old land claims in Wellington; and by a methodical reading of all old records—it has been possible to fit together all the parts of what was a few years ago an intricate jig–saw puzzle.

The early history of South Otago is recorded in the “Reminiscences of the Early Settlement of South Otago,” edited by John Wilson. Therein this passage occurs:—

“During the New Zealand land boom in 1839–40, one Thomas Jones, merchant in Sydney, became a large operator. He claimed to have purchased from the native owners 307,000 acres of land, of which 256,000 acres were in the Molyneux district. A syndicate was formed, stock purchased, and the brig “Portenia” chartered to convey a party to the Molyneux. Besides Jones himself, she carried George Willcher, William Bessant, Conning, and Thomas Russell. Willcher represented Jones as resident agent, Bessant represented two men, Cruikshanks and Cohen, who belonged to the syndicate, while Conning represented an area of 7000 acres purchased from Jones.

“Russell's status is not specially known, but the likelihood is that he was another purchaser from Jones. He remained in the colony till his death, which occurred in Dunedin many years ago. He had been awarded 100 acres in place of his original claim of thousands of acres, and he lived all along in hopes of getting further concessions—hopes which were never realised.

“The voyage was a tempestuous one, and all the stock perished except one cow. The party landed near the Karoro Creek, and Willcher was so disgusted with the failure of the expedition that he remained in New Zealand. He secured a section of some twenty acres of land at the mouth of the Karoro, and the bay near Port Molyneux is called Willcher Bay after him.”

A Scrap of History.

In 1889 “A Scrap of History” was published in the Southland Times, and from it the following extracts are taken:—

“There were originally four persons who settled at Molyneux Bay, bringing with them the stock mentioned in the letter, in the ship “Portenia,” Captain Morris. Of the cattle only one cow was landed.

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Fortunately this cow was in calf, and with much joy to her owner, Mr Willcher, the calf was a bull. From this beginning a herd of 600 head was eventually raised. Some of the goats and pigs that were landed strayed into the bush.

“The names of the original settlers were Thomas Russell, Robert Conning, Mr George Willcher (acting for Thomas Jones, merchant, of Sydney), and T. W. Bessant (acting for Cruickshanks and Cohen, of Sydney). Of these, Russell and Willcher obtained grants of land. Bessant and Conning resided there about twelve months, and, being disgusted with the solitude and privations forced upon them, returned to Sydney at the first opportunity. Russell died about fifteen or twenty years ago in Dunedin; Willcher left for England about twelve years ago, and it is not known whether he is still alive.”

A Valuable Letter

Fortunately, Bessant wrote a long letter to Mr Cohen, of Sydney, and it is well worth reprinting:—

“Molyneux Bay,

Dear Cohen,—Here we are, and have been since Sunday week, after a passage of four weeks exactly [from Sydney], during which we experienced all kinds of misforturne. In the first place, on leaving Sydney Heads we popped into the midst of a heavy gale of wind, which lasted four days and destroyed twenty–eight head of cattle. You can imagine the state the hold was in—the dead cattle all rotting. The people had to cut them up and heave them overboard. As you may suppose, our provision for the stock was soon wasted, and we were at our wits' end to find feed for them. I am sorry to say poor Billy and one of the pigs died, and one of the goats dropped her kid. Russell lost one goat and two pigs. We are now all on shore with our stock and some of the things, but they are not all landed yet. By the by, you may guess what a harbour it is when I tell you you must bring all your things in ironbound casks, except the small cases you can carry. I have had to unpack all mine, and find the iron has destroyed all the [illegible]. Now I must tell you the land is, by everyone's account, and I think so too, everything you could wish, and when Jones gets his piece, as he says he will, the place will prosper.

“The land here is covered with a thick bush, and all around the place is the same, but by the river all tremendous hills and dales with nothing but grass and flax upon them. You cannot imagine how beautiful the country looks.

“Russell and I penetrated a long way back yesterday and found some splendid trees [indistinct, may be grass], and the whole country watered by small bits of brooks. I must tell you the chart is no page 12 more like the place than you. There is no island in the river, but a bar thrown up by the sea, and impassable for any boat. Jones is a man of no enterprise or the place would soon be valuable; we have been a week here now, but instead of laying out a town he is fuddling about on board ship for fear his wine would be drunk in his absence.

“However, we have got our houses at the only landing place, and it, of course, will be the town. My goods are all at the tent, and I have got a house nearly finished. I have a small stream of water at the door. I do not think he intends measuring the land now, but talks of sending a surveyor down and plenty more people; but as long as he will measure the water frontage we can do the rest. Of course, I cannot tell you the bounds, nor can Conning sign the deed (as we have not got the land yet), but you may rest assured I am on the lookout, and will take pretty good care of them all.

“I like Russell and Conning very well indeed. Conning is a hard–working fellow; Russell is a schemer. The captain no doubt will speak bad enough of the bay, so I will only say look at the best side of the question, as a sailor, of course, looks to the safety of his ship, and not at the land. If we could get a craft from 60 to 80 tons we should do splendidly, and I hope some day or other we will. Russell says, ‘Never mind, the hills are as good as the dales, and the dales as good as possible.’ The whole country is covered with flax. Mr. Jones says he will get a piece here, and if so we shall soon … There is a very heavy surf here, but a whale boat can always manage to land. Should you get a boat, it must be a whale boat … It is good holding ground for a ship, but the bay is quite open. Our stock are all running about, and find such food they will not eat anything that we have to give them. As for the weather, it is not at all cold, though winter time.

“In our excursion yesterday we shot a tremendous dove … it was the size of a fowl … and we had him for supper. When you come, please bring … a cap as I always wear a … and a pair of strong shoes. You could not do better than bring the cattle and some rabbits, another billy goat, etc. We must get a cutter, and if, by and by, we should be able to get a brig or schooner from Home, it would be a fortune about here, for Johnny Jones has too much of his own way.

“We went to Rubucka Island, where Bloody Jack lives. Mr. Jones went to see him. It was about five miles from the port. He was ill, but talks of calling on us when he gets well. He engages to defend Jones in his purchase, and gave him to the chief to come with us.

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“I shall very likely write to Mr. Ellard, but as the land is not measured yet, have nothing to tell him. I forgot to say there is a clerk of Johnny Jones' living with Bloody Jack, and there are no natives at Molyneux, so, of course, we have no assistance; but I do not mind that, as they understand money so well as to prefer it to anything else, and will do nothing here for a handkerchief. I could say a deal, but cannot put in a letter. Come as soon as you can and persuade as many as you can, for the place wants people more than anything. Do not forget to look out for my letter and give my brother a paper or two.

“Relying upon seeing you, I am, with best respects to Mr. and Mrs. Cruickshanks, etc., etc.

“Yours truly,

“T. W. Bessant.”

Landing was June 28, 1840.

In order to gain some information about the “Portenia” I wrote to Mr Taylor, the New Zealand Commissioner in Sydney, as follows:—

“I wonder if you could help me in determining the date of departure of a vessel from Sydney in 1840?

“In 1840 a party of four landed at the mouth of the Clutha River and established a settlement. We propose to set up a memorial cairn for our Centennial, and I would like to get the details about the vessel if there are any records in Sydney. The vessel's name was ‘Portenia.’

“If you could get access to old shipping records you might be able to find particulars of her sailing date and her cargo. A letter, written by T. W. Bessant, and dated Molyneux Bay, Monday, July 6th, 1840, commences: ‘Here we are and have been since Sunday week, after a passage of four weeks exactly (from Sydney)…’ The party apparently landed on Sunday, June 28th, 1840. A four weeks' voyage would mean that they left Sydney somewhere about June 1st.

“If there is any means of searching departures of ships from Sydney for the last week of May, 1840, it is possible that the departure of the vessel ‘Portenia,’ Captain Morris in command, might be definitely traced.”

“Portenia” Sails from Sydney.

In due course I received the interesting information that the “Portenia” had left Sydney on May 31, 1840. Here is the reply:—

“I arranged for a search of the documents and newspapers housed in the Mitchell Library, Sydney, and the investigations have disclosed the following details regarding the ‘Portenia.’

“‘Portenia,’ brig of 221 tons. Sydney agent, Edward Hunt, Jamieson Street, Sydney. Left Cape of Good Hope 22/1/1840 commanded by Capt. C. Comin with cargo of wines and sundries for page 14 Sydney. Arrived Sydney March 20, 1840. Left Girard's Wharf, Sydney, for Port Nicholson, Cloudy Bay, and Queen Charlotte Sound on May 31, 1840.

“The master is shown in some newspapers as Capt. Comin, but others and shipping gazettes and clearance documents show the master as Capt. Morris, and it would appear that Capt. Comin was replaced by Capt. Morris, who took the vessel to New Zealand.

“Passengers: Messrs Jones, Wilshire, Russell, Conning, Waik (or Waite), Robinson, and Walpole; also thirteen steerage passengers whose names are not recorded.

“Unfortunately, details of the cargo are not recorded in any form, the description being simply ‘sundries.’ The general trade list shows details of cargoes, but for some reason the ‘Portenia’ is not recorded in the issue covering the period of her departure, although several other vessels which left simultaneously are recorded. However, there is no mention of the cargo of the ‘Portenia’ in any of the papers.

“However, it might be of interest to you to know that the brig returned to Sydney from New Zealand on 24/9/1840 and left again for New Zealand on 18/10/1840. Captain Morris was still in command, and the vessel is shown as carrying the following cargo:—10 baskets, 2 tierces, 5 kegs tobacco, arrack, 5 barrels beef, 20 kegs gunpowder, 10 bags flour, 1 case muskets, 41 packages of oilman's stores, 12 packages of furniture, 10 packages of ironmongery and sundries.”

The Ravages of Rum.

“Arrack” was a second–rate grade of rum, and has been described as the “usual currency” of the whaling days. Most people employed at whaling stations were paid in rum. Unfortunately, the Maoris rapidly became addicted to rum and brandy, and its use at tangis and on other occasions played havoc. Much of the plundering of whaling stations was the result of rum drinking.

The First Trip of the “Portenia.”

In this letter from Mr. Taylor we find that Edward Hunt was the Sydney agent of the “Portenia.”

In the head office of the Lands and Survey Department, Wellington, are carefully preserved the old papers referring to the early land claims in Otago and Southland. By the courtesy of the Under–secretary of Lands, it has been ascertained that Edward Hunt was a purchaser from Jones, and that Russell paid Hunt £375 for one of the blocks. It does not appear that Jones ever proceeded with the survey and subdivision of the original block, but, fortunately, light is thrown on the purchase of the “Portenia,” and an original letter written by Edward Hunt, of Sydney, is preserved among the old claim papers, page 15 and dated 10th October, 1846. This document supplies us with an important piece of the jig–saw puzzle:—

“In April, 1840, I joined Mr. Jones in the purchase of the Brig ‘Portenia’ for the purpose of establishing a settlement upon the land purchased of the Natives, and we embarked on board that Vessel a number of Settlers consisting of a Surveyor and builder, Superintendent, an Agriculturist, Carpenters, Sawyers and a Ploughman. We also shipped on board the Brig a full sized whale–boat, twenty–seven cows, one bull, six working bullocks, drays, harness, ploughs, harrows and other farming implements. Houses in frame, pitsaws, Carpenters’ tools for erecting houses, together with stores of every description necessary for eighteen months’ consumption; and pigs, goats, poultry, grain, potatoes and garden seeds, and, in fact, everything necessary for the use of first inhabitants forming a New Settlement.

“The Settlers were landed with much expense and trouble at Molyneux Bay in June, 1840, and the Brig discharged her cargo. She afterwards returned to Sydney, where we sent her a second voyage to Molyneux with a further eighteen months’ supply of stores for the Settlers.”

To get the authentic details of the sale by Tuhawaiki to Thomas Jones we must again have recourse to early official documents, to old newspaper files, and to the Land Claim papers now reposing in Wellington.