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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Rare Volume

Chapter I

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Chapter I.

The following brief remarks may be useful to persons interested in New Zealand, for whose service they are intended.

In order to comprehend more readily the present state and prospects of the local government, the colonists, and the aboriginal natives of New Zealand, it may be advisable to commence by noticing the geographical features, and the climate of the country; both of which have been considerably misrepresented by some persons.

Extending in two long, but rather narrow principal islands, (with a few smaller ones adjacent,) New Zealand lies between the parallels of 34° and 48° south latitude, and between the 166th and 179th meridians of east longitude. It contains about 62,000,000 acres, and is bounded by nearly 3,000 miles of coast line. The country is generally hilly; in many parts mountainous. Forests, thick woods, impervious jungle, or high fern, cover the greater part of the surface, which is extremely broken, and intersected by numerous ravines. Swamps abound, and rivers or streams are numerous; but scarcely any are navigable except for large boats.* In only a few localities is there any considerable extent of level land,—and in those alone is natural grass pasturage found. But the soil is generally fertile—in some districts exceedingly so,—and the climate is extremely favorable for vegetation. The general character of the soil—except in the wooded vallies, or in the swamps—is a light sandy loam, near the surface; but rather clayey below, Deep ploughing and

* Hokianga, Kaipara, Wanganui, admit vessels a short distance within their mouths.

Almost too much so, the pruning knife being constantly required in gardens.

This sandy clay forms a tough sub-stratum, approaching to stone in hardness, previous to exposure to the weather.

page 4 fallowing are found to improve oven the worst soils* much beyond former expectation; but the valley lands are so rich as to require little or no labour beyond clearing and surface ploughing.

The climate is very healthy, and, in fine weather, particularly agreeable:—but there is so much violent wind, and such frequent as well as heavy rain, that substantial houses and warm clothing are required at least as much as during a mild winter in England; although the temperature is remarkably equable. These frequent and heavy rains wash away quantities of the loose friable soil, and cause much additional trouble with respect to roads, fences, and gardens. But these remarks apply principally to the sea coasts. In the interior, on the eastern slopes of mountains rising to ten or twelve thousand feet above the sea, whose summits arc covered with perpetual snow, much colder and drier weather is found: but on their western flanks,—especially along the west coast of the large southern, (or middle island,) there are dreary mountainous regions clothed with almost impenetrable forests, and covered by clouds carried with the prevailing westerly winds. The worst climate is towards the south west extremity of these islands; the finest in the eastern and northern districts. The northern region, being in a lower latitude, is proportionally warmer. Notwithstanding the prevalence of rain and wind, the country and the climate are eminently favorable to animal and vegetable life; but they require the most active bodily exertion, and some outlay of capital, in order to reduce the wilderness to a profitable condition.

The principal events connected with New Zealand are now so generally known, that I would not here refer to any that occurred previous to 1844, were it not indispensable to mention those few which are more particularly connected with any explanation of the present state of affairs.

At the beginning of this century the state of the country and the aboriginal population of New Zealand must have corresponded nearly to the descriptions previously given by Cook; but the older natives agree in saying that the numbers of their countrymen have greatly diminished during their own remembrance, and that this diminution appears to have been caused by epidemic diseases, by warfare between tribes,

* Cold sandy clay.

There is much volcanic soil in the northern and central districts of the northern island.

page 5 on account of disputed territorial boundaries, and by the infanticide of female or weakly children. As soon as the neighbouring colony of New South Wales began to flourish, small vessels thence sometimes visited New Zealand; a precarious trade was thus opened; and by degrees—notwithstanding many atrocities, (not committed by the barbarous cannibals alone)—some advances were made towards intercourse, and a few natives ventured to Sydney. With two of these* the Rev. Mr. Marsden visited the Bay of Islands, in 1815, and laid a foundation for subsequent improvement.

It is worth notice, that while Mr. Marsden was trying to win the confidence of these native chiefs, and, through their influence to obtain a friendly reception for the first missionaries, there were persons at Sydney striving to counteract bis efforts, and assuring these islanders that, if they complied with his advice, their country would soon be overrun by the English, and they themselves would be treated like the aborigines of New South Wales. Plausible arguments were then used in Sydney, and were soon repeated at the Bay of Islands, similar to those employed lately in many parts of New Zealand: but Mr. Marsden at last succeeded; and a few daring Englishmen, supported by the Church Missionary Society, were permanently located among some of the most warlike and independent tribes. One of the missionaries who encountered the trials of those early days, told me that the first two or three years he spent in New Zealand, could only be described as a living martyrdom,—so frequently was he apparently about to be sacrificed by the then savage and blood-thirsty natives.

After the Church of England Missionaries had made some progress, the Wesleyans arrived, and began their useful labors; selecting Hokianga as their first station: and about this time an irregular traffic with Sydney was increasing, which for several years, tended rather to strengthen and encourage the missionaries, whose knowledge of the native language induced frequent appeals to them by all parties, as interpreters and mediators, if not as judges, During about fifteen years previous to 1840, many British subjects, some Americans, and a few Frenchmen purchased land, and became actual settlers: but during the two or three years immediately preceding 1840, such a rage for buying land in New Zealand prevailed—

* Duatera and another, who were chiefs of some note.

1815.

Mr. King.

page 6 especially in New South Wales—that immense tracts were said to have been bought,—title deeds, (however useless), were sold and re-sold,—ruinous losses and disappointments were the inevitable consequence,—and dissatisfaction began to spread, not only among the white, but also among the coloured people.

New Zealand was then, and had been for about twenty years, a resort of convicts escaped from the adjacent penal colonies,—who very soon adopted the habits of the natives,—acquired their language,—and, in several instances, were tattooed. Sealing vessels, and ships engaged in the whale fishery frequented the coasts, and as their crews,—particularly the sealers,—were usually reckless in their conduct, lives were frequently lost in the more remote harbours, of which no public account has been given: but particulars of the most notorious massacres have been repeatedly published.

I regret to say that in nearly all the affrays,—the origin of which I have been able to ascertain—the white man appears to have been the aggressor, not always unintentionally. Ignorance of language, customs, boundaries, or taboo marks, have not caused so many quarrels as insult, deceit, or intoxication. Thus while the missionary was endeavouring to christianize the native,—and was eminently successful for a time,—his numerous opponents were diffusing their vicious influence, and demoralising the followers of their depraved examples.

At the beginning of the year 1839, it is supposed that there were not fewer than 80,000 aboriginal natives, including women and children), and nearly 2,000 white people in these islands. Perhaps about 3,000 only of the above number of natives were on the southern islands, while not less than 77,000 were on the northern. This great disparity in population between two adjacent islands so nearly equal in area, seems to have been partly a consequence of the comparatively recent peopling of New Zealand, and the course of migration; but chiefly the result of a disparity of climate. Neither the kauri tree, nor the kumera plant, are found on the southern (or middle) island: those shores are more exposed to wind and tempestuous sea; and as there are only a few harbours on the eastern coast, canoes cannot be much used. It is said, however, that the natives of the middle, (or large southern) island, were more numerous before they became acquainted with white men,—from whom they caught 'measles' and other diseases, which carried off many more people than now survive.

In the northern, or principal island, the natives were most page 7 numerous along the accessible parts of the coast, and about the rivers and lakes, much of their subsistence being fish.* They were not migratory,—excepting when conquerors of better territory; a case by no means infrequent, because the chief cause of their quarrels was land. Nearly every freeman in each tribe knew his boundaries, and the history of his family and possessions for several generations; but the extent claimed was sometimes insisted on tenaciously as a point of honor, rather than for its actual utility, since there was usually much more than they required for their own use. However, it should be remembered that extensive lands not only kept doubtful neighbours at a distance, but afforded a greater range for selecting trees for canoes, for fishing, for eel preserves, for rats, and for the choice of fertile spots for cultivations.

About 1000 white settlers were then living near the Bay of Islands and Hokianga, and not less than an equal number were dispersed over the country; some—the escaped convicts—secluding themselves as far in the interior as possible. This limited number of white men excited no jealousy on the part of the natives, with whom they traded. On the contrary, every chief of note was desirous of having his own "pakeha" living under his protection, and acting as his adviser as well as agent or factor. The missionaries themselves, and all the early settlers, lived under the special protection of their native neighbours,—those generally from whom they had obtained land. This state of things gratified the chiefs, and they naturally thought that with more "pakehas" they would have more trade, and more advantages over other tribes. At that time they felt no loss of influence or authority. They themselves were the undoubted masters.

The principal and the more respectable settlers, then habitually looked to the chiefs for security from molestation on the part of ill-disposed inferior natives,—and to the missionaries for restraining the covetousness or anger of the chiefs, which the great influence acquired by the missions could alone effect.

The universal respect in which the natives held these pioneers of Christianity and civilization is a sufficient proof that

* Eels are particularly prized, and are caught by wicker traps like those used in Europe.

Rats (the native animal so called), were sought for food, It is supposed that this was a small creature resembling a rabbit rather than a rat. It is now seldom seen.

Pakeha means stranger, alien, or foreigner.

page 8 their personal behaviour was generally correct. The natives are such keen observers of character and conduct,—so quick in detecting inconsistency, and estimating individuals by their actions, that an inconsistent person—though professing to be a missionary—would have no moral influence.*

It appears that personal character—as sincere friends and truthful advisers—upheld the missionaries with the majority of the natives, nearly as much as the doctrine which they taught, However readily the gospel was received, and eagerly as this sagacious and inquisitive people learned to read and write, it may be feared that only a rather small proportion of nominal converts became really christians, Novelty, and what may be called a fashion of the time, have very great effect on these islanders: a striking instance of which may be given in the speedy apparent conversion of many natives to the Roman faith, when the French bishop, Dr. Pompallier, and some French priests first arrived in 1838. "When asked by the old English missionaries why they did so, the reply was; "we like to try what is new."

When the rumour of intended colonization and government by Great Britain was spread abroad, a fresh light dawned on New Zealand, and all the early native jealousies, lulled since 1825, were revived with increased force. The mission dreaded the effects of extensive colonization, although desirous of British government. Some of the old settlers were disinclined to lose their monopoly of trade, and to submit to the restraints of English law, American and other settlers, not British subjects, were naturally averse to our interference; and bad characters—especially escaped convicts—of course dreaded the approach of legal authority.

But when once the decision of the British Government was made known, no exertion was spared by the Church of England and Wesleyan Missions to dispose the principal chiefs favorably towards such a change—a political change, which increasing local disorders and plans in preparation by various speculators, rendered imperative. Mr. (now Archdeacon) Henry Williams, at that time the head of the Church of England Mission in New Zealand, was particularly zealous and active; and his influence was then greater than that of any other individual in the country.

But the missionaries could not conscientiously urge, and

* The loss of character and influence caused even by settlers' misconduct with respect to native women is remarkable, although unhappily of ordinary occurrence.

page 9 did not encourage the natives to part with their lands in the wholesale manner then required by speculative purchasers. On the contrary, they cautioned them to remember the future wants of their children, when numerous strangers would be settled among them; and while advising the natives to encourage the new comers, and treat them kindly, they dissuaded them, openly and honestly, from parting with such land as would be required for their own maintenance, and that of their descendants. The hasty attempts of the New Zealand Company to buy large tracts of land, without even ascertaining the correct boundaries, or communicating with most of the owners: and their precipitate settlement of British colonists in ill chosen localities are now known to the public. Their first and principal settlement, at the south end of the Northern Island, was established at the end of 1839.*

Early in 1840, Captain Hobson, of the Royal Navy, who was instructed by government to treat with the natives for the cession of their sovereignty to the Queen of Great Britain, arrived at the Bay of Islands. He was cordially welcomed by the Church Mission, the Wesleyan Missionaries, and the more respectable settlers, as well as by many influential chiefs; but the French Romanist Missionaries, the Americans, and a considerable proportion of the natives, looked on with displeasure and distrust which were but ill-concealed.

The treaty of Waitangi, so important to all parties interested in New Zealand, was signed on the 6th of February, by most of the chiefs present; and copies were forthwith sent about the country, as well as round the coasts, in charge of Mr. Henry Williams, Major Bunbury, Mr. Shortland, and other duly accredited persons. Major Bunbury went, in H. M. S. Herald, to Cook's Strait, and along the middle island to Stewart Island. Mr. Williams and others went to Cook's Strait, and round the southern part of the northern island. Mr, Shortland visited the tribes north of the Bay of Islands.

After lengthened and minute explanations, and earnest discussion of the actual import and probable consequences of the treaty, it was signed by a large majority of the principal chiefs, on behalf of their tribes and themselves. Those who did not sign were either opposed to the arrangement, were of minor importance, or were in the interior, out of reach.

This treaty has now been viewed in many lights. Some

* Two of those places having very little available land, and the third having no harbour.

page 10 persons still affect to deride it; some say it was a deception; and some would unhesitatingly set it aside; while others esteem it highly as a well considered and judicious work, of the utmost importance to both the coloured and the white man in New Zealand. That the natives did not view all its provisions in exactly the same light as our authorities is undoubted: but whatever minor objections may be raised, the fact is now unquestionable that the loyalty, the fidelity, and co-operation of any natives in New Zealand has hitherto depended mainly on their reliance on the honor of Great Britain in adhering scrupulously to the treaty of Waitangi—the Magna Charta of New Zealand.

When Heke was agitating the northern natives by his arguments against the government he took great pains to show them that the British flag being hoisted on any territory, was a sign that the land belonged to the Sovereign of Great Britain, and that the people of that land were become slaves, He contended that the governor and the bishop were only slaves,—that they were obliged to obey the directions of their Sovereign (who now was a woman) and that to preserve the freedom of New Zealanders the British flag must not be admitted on their territory. To meet these arguments, Archdeacon Henry Williams circulated printed copies of the treaty of Waitangi, and himself discussed the question of the flag* at every meeting of the natives in his neighbourhood. By degrees he succeeded in counteracting Heke's mystification of the subject.

* Te kara (the colour.)