The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 82
Tahiti and Dependencies. — (Society Islands.)
Tahiti and Dependencies.
(Society Islands.)
I.—Descriptive and Historical.
This group, consisting of nine or ten islands, of various sizes, but all of great beauty, is placed between 16° 11′ and 17° 53′ South latitude, and 148° 5′ and 152° 12′ West longitude. The discovery of these islands is credited to Captain Wallis, of the English war vessel Dolphin, who sighted them in 1767; but there is reason to believe that Tahiti was seen a hundred years previously by Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, a Spanish navigator, who did not, however, land. The English discoverer sent ashore Lieut. Furneaux, who erected a British pendant on Tahiti, and formally took possession of the island in the name of King George III. In 1768, or a year after the British discovery, Tahiti was visited by the French traveller, De Bougainville; and after the lapse of another year the great Captain (then lieutenant) Cook visited the island for the purpose of observing the transit of Venus. For twenty or thirty years Tahiti continued to be so visited at intervals—being brought prominently into notice by the escape thither of fourteen of the Bounty mutineers and their capture there in 1791. The first missionaries of the London Missionary Society arrived in 1797; two Roman Catholic missionaries, who preceded them by about twenty years, having in the interval relinquished their labours and returned to Europe. A French Protectorate was established over Tahiti in 1844, and this has by degrees been extended to other islands of the group, as well as to the Tuamotu Islands, seventy-eight in number, which lie to the eastward, and cover an area of 3,300 square miles. The latest act of aggression has been the hoisting of the French Protectorate flag on Raiatea, one of the Society Islands, the neutrality of which is specially secured by an Anglo-French treaty. This action has formed the subject of a good deal of diplomatic correspondence between the two countries, and the French justify their action by pleading that the flag has been page 37 hoisted by the Raiateans themselves, who desire annexation to France. It is believed at Tahiti that England will ultimately allow France to possess Raiatea—the French Government, as a quid pro quo, relinquishing their Newfoundland fishery rights.
Of the Society Islands, Raiatea is second in importance only to Tahiti, being forty miles in circumference. The other principal islands are Huaheine, twenty miles in circumference; Moorea, which is separated from Tahiti by a channel nine or ten miles wide; Taha and Bora Bora, each of which is about half the size of Raiatea.
The French colonial form of government is established in Tahiti, and is maintained by a garrison of some three hundred soldiers and gendarmes. The administration is analogous to that of a British Crown Colony, there being no popular representation even in the municipal government of the town of Papeete. A native monarchy, not unlike that of "King" Tawhiao in New-Zealand, also exists; but though it has the recognition and support of the French authorities, it is not, m its present representative, so respectable, nor among the natives so much respected, as our Maori monarch is. King Pomare V., otherwise Ariiaue, son of the illustrious Queen Pomare, is no credit to his ancestral line, and it is no matter of regret to learn that at his accession the French so adroitly arranged matters that he will be the last of the native sovereigns of Tahiti. A very handsome stone palace is provided for King Pomare at Papeete, but he never inhabits it. Adjoining are the private and official apartments of the Governor, with beautifully laid-out grounds. Papeete is a town of some two thousand inhabitants, and is well and substantially built, the business portion of stone and brick, and the residential portion of timber. It extends for three miles along the bay, and there are many side and intersecting streets. There is an arsenal and coaling station at one end of the bay, and at the other extremity is a battery of seven large guns, with tons of shot, etc., in readiness for use. Behind this battery the prison is situated. The other public buildings embrace a handsome Roman Catholic cathedra!, fine Court buildings, Government buildings and offices, barracks, market-place, etc. The streets are well kept, and there is a splendid and copious water supply laid on. Some of the streets are wide and noble avenues, over-arched by the boughs of giant trees, but the majority are narrow lanes. Religion and education are both subsidised by Government. Education is free and compulsory, and is controlled by a Committee of Education.
England | (Consul (Mr. Miller, sen.) |
England | Vice-Consul (Mr. Miller, jun) |
United States | Consul (Mr. Atwater) |
United States | Vice-Consul (Mr. J. J. Youngpage 38 |
Germany | Consul (Mr. Meuel) |
Italy | Consular Agent (M. Bonet) |
Denmark | Consul (Mr. Smidt) |
Sweden and Norway | Consul (Mr. Jorss) |
Chili | Consul (M. Goupil) |
Hawaii | Consul (Mr. Sumner) |
A native police force is maintained in addition to the French gendarmerie, so that there is the utmost security to life and property against lawlessness, while hurricanes and earthquakes are alike unknown.
II.—Population, Products, etc.
Native | 25,000 |
French | 900 |
English | 350 |
American | 250 |
German | 40 |
Chinese | 500 |
Imported Polynesians | 300 |
Total | 27,340 |
The natives of these Islands dress much better than those of Tonga or Samoa—many of the men wearing trousers, shirt, and hat, while the women all wear (in addition to the pareu or loin cloth) long flowing robes of cotton, muslin, or silk, neatly trimmed straw hats, besides articles of jewellery of European make. In religious and educational respects, the Tahitians occupy nearly the same position as the Samoans; but morally considered, the comparison is against the Tahitians, who have learnt the European vice of over-indulgence in strong drink, and are allowed to practise it freely. Nor has religion produced any real improvement in the morals of the females, who have the loosest possible idea of sexual obligations. Nine-tenths of the population are Protestant, and one-tenth Roman Catholic—the Protestants being under the care of the London and Paris Missionary Societies. The whole of the churches are looked upon as one, through the native preachers all receiving their salaries through the Government; and two beneficial results of this are (1) that the country is spared such painful religious dissensions as obtain in Tonga; and (2) the Government have a complete control over the people. The Tahiti natives very much resemble those of Tonga, but the former are happier and less dignified, while the women are page 39 decidedly handsomer. Their language is a pleasant and musical kind of Maori, with characteristics distinguishing it from other dialects of the Pacific; but so far as habits of industry are concerned, the people do not rise above the uniform dead level of laziness. The French Government have, however, devised a method of getting the Tahitian males to work at road formation. A tax of twelve francs per annum for road-making is levied on all adult males in the island, but in the case of natives, six days' work on the roads is accepted in lieu of payment, and many are thus got to exert themselves in a useful way. The scenery of Tahiti is most picturesque—high mountains of basaltic formation rising in fantastic shape, clothed with verdure, and having wooded vales and limpid streams between. The soil is of excellent quality, and with little cultivation yields abundantly all kinds of tropical produce; but one-third of the island or more consists of such broken country as to render it unfit for use. The total area being 587 square miles, there is a vast extent of country well suited for plantations; but in proportion to the population, and the length of time the island has been colonised, the cultivations are exceedingly meagre. Copra, cotton, vanilla, and oranges are the chief articles produced in Tahiti, while mother-of-pearl and fungus are collected here from the Tuamotu Archipelago, and hence exported to Europe. No minerals of economic value have been discovered in the Society Islands; but at Rapa, a lonely island far to the south-eastward, good coal is said to exist.
There is every facility for the acquisition of land from the natives of Tahiti, but the difficulty caused by a multiplicity of owners applies here as in New Zealand. At present there is abundance of land held by Europeans, which is open for sale; and though in one case it is stipulated that the purchaser must be a French subject, there is in general every inducement to settlers of any nationality whatever. Thus the advantages of the Caisse Agricole, a Government Department for the encouragement of settlement, are open to Frenchmen and foreigners alike. The Caisse Agricole advances money on mortgage or on personal security to industrious settlers, and in various ways offers encouragements for the prosecution of agricultural pursuits.
III.—Import and Export Trade.
From and to | Imports. | Exports. | Total |
---|---|---|---|
France | £21,737 | £8,018 | £29,755 |
England | 13,500 | 29,500 | 43,000 |
Australia | 11,468 | 650 | 12,118 |
New Zealand | 900 | 120 | 1,020 |
America | 91,645 | 48,914 | 140,559 |
Germany | 12,810 | 35,300 | 48,110 |
Sandwich Islands | 150 | 86 | 236 |
Elsewhere | 26,916 | 22,612 | 49,528 |
Total | £179,126 | £145,200 | £324,326 |
From and to | Arrivals. | Departures. | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Vessels. | Tonnage. | Vessels. | Tonnage. | |
England | 2 | 986 | 4 | 2,061 |
Australia | 10 | 3,830 | 2 | 537 |
New Zealand | 4 | 658 | 1 | 52 |
France | 3 | 3,827 | — | — |
Germany | 2 | 1,008 | 6 | 2,474 |
America | 19 | 5,917 | 21 | 6,603 |
Elsewhere (chiefly to adjacent islands) | 91 | 5,271 | 90 | 10,079 |
Total | 131 | 21,597 | 124 | 21,806 |
Cotton | £55,170 |
Copra | 43,350 |
Mother-of-pearl and other shells | 15,300 |
Vanilla | 2,290 |
Oranges | 2,800 |
Cotton seed | 1,550 |
Cocoanuts | 1,340 |
Fungus | 930 |
Citron juice | 275 |
Guava jelly | 20 |
The mother-of-pearl is collected in the Tuamotu Islands, and the cocoanuts are nearly all exported to the United States, where they find a ready market.
IV.—Extension of Trade with New Zealand.
Flour | £10,200 |
Salt and Preserved Meats | 7,500 |
Dried and Preserved Fish | 5,000 |
Soap | 4,350 |
Timber | 6,400 |
Biscuits | 3,800 |
Coal | 3,380 |
Sugar | 2,300 |
Cheese and Butter | 1,540 |
Coffee and Tea | 1,800 |
Tobacco and Cigars | 1,300 |
Horses, Cattle, Pigs and Sheep | 1,000 |
Potatoes | 700 |
Apples and other Fruits | 300 |
Onions | 180 |
Bricks | 200 |
With reference to onions, I found that they were being retailed at 10d. per lb.—a price which will appear fabulous to New Zealand producers. Another article which commands a high price at present is bricks—£5 per thousand being paid for them. Though the import of these was inconsiderable last year, there is reason to expect that the demand will largely increase, as, since a destructive fire which took place two years ago, a regulation has been passed rendering it compulsory to build with brick, stone, or concrete within a certain area of the town. Mahurangi cement for the making of concrete might be introduced. A. lucrative trade in the supply of live stock, particularly horses, might also be established with Tahiti. Five horses were imported last year from San Francisco at an average price in San Francisco of £20 10s. each, but they are a far inferior class of animal to what New Zealand could supply for the money. Already a start has been made for the transfer of this trade to New Zealand. On the present trip of the Janet Nicoll Mr. Edenborough entered into an agreement with the commander of the battery at Papeete to provide horses of a certain specified stamp, at £30 each, landed in Tahiti. Three horses are to be taken as a first consignment, but forty in ail are required.
V.—Local Industry and Trade.
Societé Commerciale de l'Oceanie | German |
Darsie & Co. | English |
Turner & Chapman | American |
Crawford & Co | American |
Boyd & Co | American |
Coppenrath | Belgian |
La Hartague & Cie. | French |
Raoulx & Papineau | French |
L. Martin | French |
There are besides a large number of retail establishments, kept by French or Chinese, about a dozen public-houses or cafés, and several clubs, or "Cercles," the leading commercial one being "Le Cercle Civil de l'Union." The market-place, in the centre of the town, is a large building with a raised floor, the sides being page 44 open all round. It is used chiefly by native and Chinese dealers for the sale of fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, etc.; and business commences at four in the morning, when by the light of numerous small lamps a scene of no ordinary animation may be witnessed. Traders are pretty heavily taxed. They have to pay, like the rest of the residents of Papeete, a poll-tax of 20 francs a year, a property tax of 1 to 4 per cent, on the annual rental of their buildings, and a road tax of 12 francs per annum. In addition the following licence fees are exacted :—Merchants, wholesale and retail, who own vessels, 500 francs per annum; do., not owning vessels, 250 francs; do., trading in Papeete alone and not selling liquors, 125 francs; do., outside Papeete, 50 francs. Manufacturers have to pay an annual licence fee of 25 francs, and hawkers 100 francs. Lawyers, solicitors, and notaries pay 300 francs per annum; commission agents, 500 francs; valuers, 200 francs; bailiffs, 100 francs; and physicians, 50 francs. The licence for a public-house is 3000 francs or £120 a year. Business at Tahiti appeared to be in a healthy state—there being none of that cutting competition complained of at Apia. Two large new buildings for business purposes were in course of erection at Papeete—one being a handsome brick store of two stories high for Messrs. Crawford and Co., the American firm, who have also a branch at Apia.
On the island of Raiatea, the chief trading house is that of Capt. Higgins, who is known as "the King of Raiatea "The German house in Tahiti has also a branch there, and Messrs. Donald and Edenborough, of Auckland, have a store on that island. At Papeete the last-named firm's business is managed by an agent, Mr. Coppenrath. There is, I believe, an opening at Papeete for a good practical tailor, there being no civilian tailor on the island. Complaints are made against the only chemist in the place, and an opposition establishment would receive support.
VI.—Currency and Exchange.
French and Chilian money is chiefly circulated in Tahiti. The question of exchange does not here assume such a difficult shape as at Samoa and Tonga; but many of the merchants would rejoice to see a New Zealand bank open a branch at Papeete, and His Excellency the Governor assured us that he would do all that lay in his power to further such an undertaking. Exchange on Europe is managed through the medium of Government bills, which are issued at a fixed and moderate rate; with San Francisco and Sydney, balances are effected by exporting or importing coin. Failing the establishment of a bank, the latter method would have to be adopted by New Zealand merchants, as there are certainly not sufficient exports to be got from Tahiti to balance any extensive trade such as might be established with this colony.
VII.—Shipping Charges, Customs Tariffs, etc.
For the first 100 tons | and over | 4 France per fraction of 10 tons |
For the next 300 tons | and over | 3.50c. per fraction of 10 tons |
For the next 100 tons | and over | 3f. per fraction of 10 tons |
For the next 500 tons | and over | 1.50c. per fraction of 10 tons |
On Alcohol, Absinthe, Geneva and Whisky | 2 francs per litre |
Cognac, Bitters, and Rum, with a strength of 56°or under | 1f, 25c. per litrepage 46 |
Cognac, Bitters, and Rum, up to 79° | 31/5c. per degree per litre |
Dessert Wines, Liqueurs and Vermouth | 1 franc per litre |
Other Wine, Beer, &c. | 25 centimes per litre |
The bonding charges in Government stores are 10 centimes per ton space per day, and ½ per cent, ad valorem. The tax on private bonds is ½ per cent. ad valorem.
The question of securing a reciprocal treaty with New Zealand is involved in some difficulty. Hitherto the goods of all nations have been admitted on equal terms, but of late there has been a considerable amount of talk among French traders on the subject of securing protection to their trade, by the imposition of differential duties, favouring imports from France. The majority of the Chamber of Commerce would, I fear, support any such proposal; but on the other hand, the Chairman's wishes are in the direction of encouraging New Zealand trade, while His Excellency the Governor expressed decided Free Trade opinions, and appeared inclined to favour interchange with this Colony.
VIII.—The Labour Question.
Until the native Tahitian acquires the habit of industry, cultivation on any extended scale must be done with imported labour. Many years ago Chinese prison labour was introduced here, some 1700 men being landed; but the large majority of these have found their way back to their native country. The most of the work on the island is at present done by 300 imported Polynesians and 500 Chinese—the latter raising all the vegetables that are consumed. The further importation of Chinese is prohibited by law. There is ample scope in Tahiti for a large Plantation Company, who might secure Coolie labour, or if they preferred Polynesian labour, might obtain and employ it without those vexatious restrictions which the humanitarian British Government imposes in British Colonies.
IX.—Tourist Traffic.
There is nowhere in the Pacific a mort enchanting spot for the lover of the beautiful than Tahiti, and for this reason alone it ought to receive many visitors. Then the climate in the winter months is most delicious. The mornings and evening are delightfully cool; it only rains about once a month; and the heat of mid-day is not extreme, European bricklayers, carpenters, etc., work nine hours a day all the year round, in the open air, without suffering from the heat. Visitors can depend upon getting well-cooked food in any of the restaurants, and lodgings can also be obtained. Invalids can here find every comfort and luxury of life; for instance, ice is an article of daily consumpt, and this we could not obtain at any of the other islands.
X.—Acclimatisation.
Having been informed that there was a distinct species of tobacco grown in Tahiti, I endeavoured to obtain some of the seed in order to its introduction to New Zealand. On account of our visit being at fête time, the seed could not be immediately obtained, but M. Duplessis, aide-de-camp to the Governor, promised to forward a small packet to the Chairman of the Auckland Chamber of Commerce. There are no indigenous plants or animals suitable to New Zealand. Horses, cattle, sheep and pigs do well on the island. Vanilla is grown successfully, but on account of the absence of humming-birds it has to be fertilised by hand, which entails such an amount of labour as can only render the growing profitable so long as good prices rule.