The Manufacture of Cheese, Butter, and Bacon in New Zealand.

New Zealand need have no fear as to obtaining a ready market for all her surplus dairy produce: the markets of the world are open to her. Steam and electricity annihilate time and distance.

From a combination of circumstances the demand for dairy produce in England is ever on the increase. Passing by other great centres of population in the United Kingdom, London alone adds to her teeming millions nearly 100,000 annually. From this cause her demands are constantly increasing, and her supplies from domestic sources are decreasing. There are also milk-condensing factories now in operation requiring 15,000 gallons or 150,000 lb. of milk per day, when procurable. That quantity of milk is equivalent to nearly 1,900 tons of cheese per annum. Then there are other causes to diminish the supply of dairy produce. Owing to the sanitary regulations in force few cows are now kept in London; the consequence is that millions of gallons of milk are drawn from the counties where the principal supplies of cheese and butter are made. For these reasons a fine opportunity presents itself for this colony to step in and supply the want. This may be done to an unlimited extent: everything is favourable: the mildness of the climate and the fertility of the soil conduce to render New Zealand, for all practical dairy purposes, preferable to either England or America. For New Zealand cheese Australia has always proved a ready market, and will take larger quantities as the quality page 2 improves. The Australian market is open for cheese from 15 lb. to 40 lb.; the Indian, from 6 lb. to 10 lb.; the British, from 56 lb. to 84 lb. in weight. When the requirements of distant markets are better known, factories will have to manufacture cheese both in size and quality most suitable to the customer.

The advantages of the factory system over small dairies are many. Twenty small dairies would require twenty sets of appliances and twenty persons to superintend, whereas one factory could take all their milk, and one person superintend the whole operations. By this method a vast amount of labour is saved, and a better quality of cheese is produced. No doubt in large private dairies, say of 80 to 100 cows, cheese can be made to equal any factory cheese, both in quality and size.

The question has often been asked, "What breed of cows is best for dairy purposes? " The cow-keepers of London are considered excellent authorities. They say the Dutch cow will give the greatest quantity, but the Alderney the richest quality of milk. It has been found that the Durham shorthorn and Devon cows are the best for general purposes: they breed fine oxen, the cows milk well, and make good beef when their milking qualities fail.

At present there are 3,700,000 cows kept for milk-purposes in the United Kingdom; estimated at 440 gallons as the yield for the season per cow, we have the large quantity of 1,628,000,000 gallons of milk. It is further estimated that 525,000,000 gallons are consumed in various ways, leaving a balance of 900,000,000 gallons to be converted into cheese and butter. The above quantity of milk is equivalent to 126,000 tons of cheese and 89,285 tons of butter. The estimated quantity of milk for each cow is low, principally owing to the numerous fatal diseases which prevail in England, from which these Islands happily are free.

The quantity of cheese and butter made in England is diminishing, and it is not improbable in course of time she will depend almost wholly on foreign supplies for cheese and, to a large extent, for butter, while English dairy-farms will be devoted chiefly to the milk-trade, which has been greatly stimulated in recent years.

The quantity and value of imports of butter and cheese for eight years are as follow:— page 3

Year.	Cheese.		Butter.
	Cwt.	£	Cwt.	£
1871	1,216,400	3,341,496	1,334,783	6,939,040
1873	1,057,883	3,031,977	1,138,081	6,028,474
1873	1,356,728	4,061,456	1,279,566	6,955,264
1874	1,485,265	4,483,927	1,619,808	9,050,025
1875	1,627,748	4,709,508	1,467,870	8,502,084
1876	1,531,204	4,237,763	1,659,492	9,718,226
1877	1,651,088	4,763,053	1,637,939	9,538,305
1878	1,695,949	4,939,009	1,795,413	9,940,412

It may be interesting to estimate the value of the cow. In all estimates of this kind the quality of the cow and the pasture on which she feeds must be taken into account. The old proverb runs, "Milk enters in at the mouth." One factory in Holland with 600 cows reports the average per day of 1,500 gallons, or 15,000 lb. of milk. A dairy in Friesland (Holland) states their cows average during the season 850 gallons, or 8,500 lb. each. In 1879 a dairy in Middlesex, supplying milk for London consumption, averaged per cow 730 gallons, or 7,300 lb. In America the average yield of the cows in one dairy is reported at 680 gallons, or 6,800 lb., per annum. From that quantity of milk 6 cwt. of cheese was produced. Mr. Guy's account of his prize dairy in Canada is as follows : "We find our best milk-cows, when they first calve, to give from 4 to 5 gallons or 40 lb. to 50 lb. of milk per day, and in some instances to exceed that quantity on grass alone. We estimate their average yield for the first three months after calving at 3½ gallons or 35lb. per day; for the next three months at 2½ gallons or 25 lb.; and for the next three months at 2 gallons or 20 lb. per day : or an average yield for forty weeks of over 2½ gallons or 27 lb. per day, making an aggregate of 792 gallons or 7,920 lb. of milk as the produce of each cow for the year. This quantity represents 6½ cwt. of cheese."

In England and America they calculate upon grass for six months only; here, we calculate upon grass for from eight to nine months. New Zealand cows during forty weeks will average not less than 2 gallons or 20 lb. of milk per day. This estimate is believed to be below the mark. Two gallons per day is 560 gallons or 5,600 lb. per season of forty weeks: that quantity, at 4d. per gallon, will give the farmer £9 for each cow. But how stands the factory? 560 gallons of milk represent 5 cwt. of cheese. Dispose of that at 6½d. per lb.: that will give the factory for each cow £15. Now, take a factory of 800 cows : each cow produces 5 cwt., that is, 4,000 cwt. of cheese : that quantity at 6½d. per lb. will produce in the season a sum of £12,000. The farmers receive £7,200 of this amount, leaving a balance for the factory of £4,800 to pay working expenses and dividend. This does not include the profits from the pigs.

It may be said that all estimates appear excellent in figures, but what are the facts? There arc few good farmers in England page 5 who do not realize £20 per cow per annum, and there are some known to have averaged £24 per cow, Through good management in the dairy, in one instance, after rent and contingent expenses were paid, the surplus produce of the dairy enabled the farmer to purchase and pay for his farm.

We may build factories and supply quantities of milk, but the success of the enterprise depends upon the skill and experience of the manager. This, at present, is the greatest difficulty we have to contend with in the colonies, and there is no way of removing it except by securing the best men from England or America. It matters not, however, where they come from if they have skill and years of experience. Then they will know how to adapt their methods to changing seasons and circumstances. Of all points this must be strictly attended to; if not, disappointment and loss will be the sure result. A few good men will soon teach others. Every factory will be a school, where farmers' sons and daughters may be taught the art of cheese-making. Young men ought to give the labour of one season of forty weeks for the privilege of learning the art of making cheese. A factory for a dairy of 800 cows would require seven hands, one of these to look after the pigs. Eight hundred pigs would be fattened: the profit from these would not be less than £1 10s. per head. That would give £1,200 to pay wages and working expenses, £600 would be required for wages. It will thus be seen that £6,000,—£4,800 from the cheese and £l,200 from the pigs,—would be available for payment of wages, working expenses, interest, and dividend. In England, for pig-fattening purposes, the whey from the milk of each cow is valued at £2 10s.

A great point of importance is the delivery of milk. Cheese-factories must have their milk in early. Some think the factories should collect the milk. This would be an expensive and difficult matter. In connection with this point there is another matter of grave importance. Farmers contend that once a day is sufficient to deliver milk. This has proved to lead to failure. In cold weather, if confidence can be placed in the integrity of all who supply milk, it may do; but in warm weather it is impossible for all to deliver their milk sweet and fit for cheese-making purposes: 10 gallons of milk slightly turned would spoil 500 gallons. There are page 6 other reasons why milk should be delivered twice a day. In hot weather it is absolutely necessary to run the evening's milk into curd and make cheese twice a day. It is an excellent plan, when there is danger of acidity, to run the evening's milk into curd before the morning's milk is delivered at the factory. The best cheese-maker in the world can never make fine quality from sour milk. The proper method is for the farmer to deliver the milk at the factory, and to deliver it morning and evening.

The cases in which cheese is to be packed for export must not he neglected. The Americans tried many plans, but never succeeded until they invented the round box, each to contain one cheese. In London the boxes can be stowed away for months without deterioration to the cheese. No other method of packing can be found to answer so well. Captain Runciman, of Hamilton, Waikato, who, in his recent visit to America, had procured all the necessary machinery to split the wood and make the boxes, in a short time will be able to supply any number of boxes, or the timber ready prepared, so that the box can be put together when and where it is needed. This step is in the right direction, and as factories increase the trade will expand.

The transit of cheese is an important consideration. Without steamers and their refrigerating appliances it would be impossible to send cheese to London. Not that cheese requires a temperature down to freezing point; 50° or 55° Fahr is all that is needed, and there is no difficulty in the way except the quantity of cheese. It appears that, at present, a company will not fit up a chamber for a less quantity than 100 tons. To meet this difficulty twelve factories at least would be required, each capable of turning out eight or ten tons per month.

In the comparison between large and small cheese-factories, it is necessary to bear in mind that if 600 cows are pastured within a radius of three miles from the factory no valid objections can be raised against large factories. The same applies to private dairies. One farmer may have 600 or 800 cows upon his land; the milk in his case would be near at hand, consequently would suffer no deterioration by the transit from the field to the factory. When milk is collected from a distance of six or seven miles it is frequently exposed to the hot rays of the morning sun, which seriously affects its keeping properties; and what is still worse is page 7 the late delivery at the factory. From this cause alone two or three hours of the best part of the day for cheese-making purposes are lost, and the operations necessarily extended into late hours of the evening. The delay, to say the least of it, is injurious to the whole process, and ought to be avoided.

One reason why a medium-sized factory (say from 250 to 300 cows) is preferable to a large one is that the milk will be produced nearer to its destination, and consequently will be delivered at the factory by 7.30 a.m., with the important advantage of the cool morning air. In this case all hands would get to their work in proper time, and not a moment would be wasted in needless delay. There are so many advantages arising out of the early delivery of milk that the practice cannot be commended too highly. The produce of 250 cows would be 500 gallons of milk, the management of which would require two men and a strong boy, at a cost of not less than £250. If we estimate the management of a factory of moderate size at £1 per cow, years of experience show that it is not far from the mark.

Perhaps it may be interesting to give a brief outline of the various methods of manufacturing cheese in England. Take Cheddar first. Throughout Somersetshire it is the custom to have the morning's milk into the dairy not later than 7 a.m. The rennet and colouring are immediately added to the milk, and in the course of forty minutes the milk is "run,"' i.e., formed into curd, and the curd is ready to "break down," i.e., cut into pieces. This operation is performed by an instrument called the curd-breaker. It is important, and ought to be done with great care; the time required is about forty minutes. The next step is to turn hot water or steam on gradually up to the temperature of 96° or 100° Fahr., as the season and circumstances may require. Then the whey is drawn off, and the curd, being formed into a cake-like body, is cut into square blocks and placed in a wooden cooler. In the cooler the whey which remains is separated from the curd, the artificial heat is evaporated, and the requisite amount of acidity is generated. When these objects are attained the curd is broken in passing through a mill, the salt is applied, and the final step is into the press. Such is a general outline of making Cheddar cheese.

An American author, the Hon. X. A. Willard, of Little Falls, New York, who visited Mr. Harding, Marksbury, as a page 8 deputation from the American Dairymen's Association, says of the Cheddar system, as he then saw it carried out, "That in his opinion it is the only process from which American dairymen can obtain suggestions of much practical utility. The foundation of success depends upon strictly adhering to the principles as laid down under this head."

The Cheshire mode varies in a few points from the Cheddar. The milk in both cases is "run" at the same temperature—from 82° to 84° Fahr., as the season may require—and the scalding process is nearly the same. When the whey has been drawn off, the curd is cut up, cooled, passed through the mill, salted, and placed in the pressing-vat. The next step is to place the vat, containing 80 lb. or 90 lb. of curd, in an oven, as it is called, where the temperature is not less than 70° Fahr.; here it is left for the space of thirty-six hours, and then pressed in the usual way. The required amount of acidity is generated during the thirty-six hours in the oven, and the fatty substance thoroughly fixed with the curd. This is one of the most improved processes of mating Cheshire cheese.

The double Gloucester and Wiltshire cheese are manufactured upon the same principle. The custom is to skim the cream from the night's milk, which is made into butter for the local markets. The milk is "run" at a temperature of from 80° to 82° Fahr. The process in breaking down the curd and the scald is nearly the same as for the Cheddar. When the whey is drawn off, the curd is pressed lightly with a screw fixed on the top of the cheese-tub for thirty minutes, then broken up, cooled, salted, and placed in the press. The whole operation is finished in six hours. The cheeses arc much smaller than the Cheddar, consequently do not require the same amount of acidity; they generally run four to the 112-lb. weight. The time from the press to the market is about three months. This class of cheese takes a high place in the London market, and will hold its position against other kinds. The average wholesale price is about £3 5s. per cwt. No doubt excellent double Gloucester can be made in New Zealand. The Americans are making strenuous efforts to rival and supplant the Gloucester.

Stilton cheese is principally made in small dairies of from six to ten cows. The milk is "run" at a low temperature—from 74° to 78° Fahr. : the application of hot water or steam is dis- page 9 pensed with. The curds and whey are first dropped into a strainer, and the whey is drawn off until the curd is formed into a cake. This is often allowed to remain for twenty-four hours, then broken small, and salted during the process of being placed in a mould. It continues in the mould until it is firm enough to stand—about eight or ten days—being turned every day. It is then removed from the mould, and the outside is scraped to fill up cavities and render it smooth. A piece of cheese-cloth is pinned round the cheese, and it is removed into a temperature of not less than 70° Fahr. No external pressure is used for Stilton cheese. In about five or six months the blue veins begin to appear, and the prime Stilton is ready for market.

Cotherstone cheeses are distinguished by thin blue veins of mould and richness of quality. They are the same size as Stilton, and like in quality. The mode of manufacture is extremely simple. The milk is "run" at a temperature of 76° Fahr., and no hot water or steam-power is required. When the whey is separated the curd is salted, placed in the vat, and pressed in the usual way. The cheeses are small in size, weighing from 10 lb. to 12 lb., and sell in London at from ls. to ls. 6d. per lb.

Wensley Dale cheese in size and quality resembles the double Gloucester. Its repute in the North of England is so great that the makers have no occasion to enter the London market. Their process is simple; all is done without the use of hot water or steam-power. The salt, in many cases, is applied after the curd is sufficiently pressed; the application of strong salt brine is frequent.

Such are various modes of cheese-making in England. The American process is taken from the English. Up to a certain point the two processes are the same; then opposite courses are taken, though both hope to attain the same end, that is, good cheese. All cheese-makers admit that a certain amount of acidity must be generated in the curd to give it solidity and keeping properties, because, if pressed when sweet, there is a danger of the curd turning rancid and contracting bad flavours. In the methods adopted to procure this acidity consists the chief difference between the two processes. The Americans keep the curd in the whey until the desired result is obtained, the time required varying according to temperature and other contingencies. The English separate the curd from the whey, keeping page 10 it warm until there is a sufficiency of acidity; then the curd is salted, and when the temperature is reduced to 70° Fahr. the salt is added and it is pressed. The Americans, when the whey is run off, move the curd for a short time, then salt, and put in the press. The Americans press the curd wet, and keep in the press only twenty-four hours. The English press the curd dry, and keep in the press for three or four days. These are the chief differences between the English and the American systems of cheese-making. It may perhaps be found that both processes can be worked advantageously in New Zealand; for, as in England, so will it prove here—different localities will make cheese dissimilar in quality and flavour. A case to the point has come under notice recently. The Agricultural College at Lincoln and the Ashburton factory manufacture their curd on the Cheddar principle, but there is a marked difference in the curd. The weight of evidence, so far as experience goes, is that the method of manufacture has more to do with quality and flavour of the cheese than the locality.

It may however be well to give a more full description of the two processes as worked at the factories at Ashburton, in Canterbury, and at Edendale, in Southland.

By both American and English Processes:

Difference of opinion exists as to the principle upon which factories should be started; or, rather, which would be the best plant—the American or the English. The general opinion at first sight seems to be in favour of the former. From experience of the two processes, and after comparing their results, the English plant is to be preferred, for the following reasons: (1.) If desired, at any time, cheese on the American principle can be made equally well with the English plant; whereas cheese on the English principle cannot conveniently be made with the American plant. (2.) In June, 1882, in London, American cheese realized £2 10S. to £3 2s. per cwt., whereas English brought from £3 10s. to £4 4s. per cwt.—a difference in the London market of 20s. per cwt. in favour of the English. Everything taken into account, the labour-expense in the two processes is about the same. There is, however, a point which may be in favour of the American plant, that is, that its first cost for a good-sized factory would be about £200 less than the English : against this must be placed the extra durability of the English plant, which probably would last out three of the American. Cheese cannot be cured perfectly in ill-constructed, drafty, or damp rooms, page 12 which are too cold in winter and too warm in summer, and without any artificial means of keeping the cheese in the proper temperature—not lower than 65° Fahr. If cheese is to be of first quality it must be stored in a proper room with a uniform temperature. The curing-room, as shown on the plans which accompany this paper, is so constructed that the requisite amount of heat may be applied in a short time—from forty to fifty minutes.

New Zealand factories will find that it will be for their best interest to manufacture small cheese from 20 lb. to 30 lb. at the beginning of the season, when the milk does not come in so freely and is not so suitable for large cheese. Small cheese with proper care and a little artificial heat will be ready for market in ten weeks, so the first made will be disposed of to make room for those of larger size, manufactured expressly to meet the requirements of the British market. Then again at the close of the season small cheese will be found to answer best with the cream taken from the night's milk. At this season of the year milk is considerably richer than at any other time. The summer months are regarded as the proper cheese-making season, but there is no reason why cheese should not be made all the year round in this fine climate, provided there be sufficient feed for the cows.

November, December, and January are the months when cheese is little sought after in the London market, and forced sales never pay. April, May, and June are the best months; the previous year's stock is all used up, and the cheese-merchants are glad to take the first supply which comes to market. New Zealand can send thousands of tons of fine ripe cheese, just at the time when there will be no competitor. This is a great point in favour of New Zealand.

There is another consideration—it is not too soon to anticipate it—and that is proper organization : this is one essential element for progress and prosperity. As the cheese, butter, and bacon factory extend operations, it will be absolutely necessary to have suitable stores in every large shipping port. The disposal of the cheese may be safely left to the usual mercantile channels.

When a number of factories are in operation, to stimulate and encourage the managers it would be well to have an annual show in the principal towns. The annual cheese-show at Frome, Somersetshire, is one of the gayest days in the year. Farmers, with their families, assemble in large numbers. Merchants page 13 from London and elsewhere gather to secure the best dairies. Dairymen and maidens are all anxious to win the first prize, which is not less than £50, or its equivalent in plate. Butter and bacon and poultry could also be exhibited, and take prizes according to their merit.

To say what New Zealand is capable of producing is impossible. With a vast extent of unbroken lands, it is no romance to say that millions of cows may be kept where at present few exist. Two acres and a half will sustain a cow summer and winter; two and a half million acres will keep one million cows; the produce of each cow would not be less than 5 cwt. of cheese, valued at 6½d., or £60 per ton, producing a revenue of £15,000,000 per annum. The calf and also the pig which invariably go with the cow are an additional source of revenue.

There are at present several cheese-factories at work in New Zealand—in Auckland, Wellington, Canterbury, and Southland; while several others are projected, and will be started during the coming season. The industry can hardly be overdone, as the market for cheese of good quality is unlimited. Few countries, if any, are better adapted for dairy purposes than New Zealand. The Government have offered a bonus of £500 for the first fifty tons of cheese made on the American factory principle, for export.

The factory in Southland, at Edendale, worked on the American principle, is on land owned by the New Zealand Land Company, and is under the supervision of Mr. McCallum, the manager. The work of the factory is carried on by Mr. Inglis, his wife and daughter, and a man who looks after the pigs, &c. The factory is kept scrupulously clean. The land about Edendale is well adapted for dairy purposes, being strong and well grassed. The factory draws most of its supply of milk from cows the property of the company, who, in February, 1883, had 300: there were about 230 in milk; the rest were coming forward for calving. The quantity of milk daily converted into cheese was about 560 gallons: of this quantity surrounding farmers supplied only 560 gallons. The cows are milked by women and boys at 1d. per cow, in sheds floored with concrete, constructed in convenient parts of the paddocks, which are well supplied with water—a great consideration with dairy stock. One hundred and fifty Berkshire pigs are kept not far from the factory, to consume the whey.

Cheese-making is an art which has been practised for ages, but not one in fifty knows how to make a perfect cheese; yet there are no complicated difficulties about it. A few simple rules must he strictly observed—cleanliness, punctuality, and strict attention to every department in the dairy.

The factory, plans for which arc appended to this paper, will be found to be so designed as to dispense with unnecessary labour. Every department is so arranged that no time is wasted in moving from one room to another.

Professor Sheldon's Scale of Points for Judging Cheese on a Basis of a Total of 100 as Perfection.