Auckland "Star," 29th March, 1894.

"The cry of the roadless North has long resounded through the land. The lament is not of recent date, but year by year has steadily grown and increased in volume until it has sunk into insignificance almost every other question affecting the province. In the past little or no efforts were made by the Government of the day to ameliorate this deplorable state of affairs, and the settler, beset by all manner of difficulties and oftentimes danger, has had to struggle on as best he could, relying on his own exertions and a kindly Providence. Impassable roads and no roads at all and a consequent isolation from market and business centres have been disheartening handicaps for page 111 the settlers, and that they have fought on and at last established homes proves conclusively their lion-heartedness and courage. But it seems that the turn in the long lane has at last been approached, thanks to the present Liberal Government. To the Hon. R. J. Seddon is due all praise and credit for being the first Prime Minister of New Zealand to be personally interested in the wrongs and distresses of the North of Auckland, and to demonstrate that interest in a practical way. We can with confidence say that every settler and resident gratefully appreciated the desire shown by the Premier to lighten the burdens of the struggling toilers and to permanently improve the existing circumstances. The visit and investigations were by no means of a superficial character; every opportunity was availed of to glean the fullest and most accurate information, and the honourable gentleman underwent a great deal of fatigue and labour in his determination to make his knowledge as complete as possible. He was everywhere enthusiastically received by the residents and settlers, who exhibited their delight at the visit of the Prime Minister in every possible way. Mr. Seddon is now thoroughly conversant with the needs of the North, and the position as regards Native lands, the locking up of which has so greatly retarded the settlement and prosperity of the country, and accentuated the hardships of the pioneers. The gum industry was not neglected, and the Premier's suggestions for solving the difficulty in connection with the present crisis, and to meet any future contingencies, have almost without exception been heartily indorsed by gumdiggers and others interested in this valuable trade. The tour concluded on Tuesday evening, and, although it is premature to predict, we are pretty safe in saying that next session will see most of the proposals framed in definite terms.

"On Tuesday night, the 13th instant, the Hon. R. J. Seddon left Auckland, in pursuance of the visit which was promised last session to the country comprising the extreme northern portion of the North Island of New Zealand. The party, numbering altogether seven persons, included the Hon. J. Carroll, the representative of the Native race in the Cabinet, and Messrs. Gerhard Mueller (Commissioner of Crown Lands), T. H. Hamer (Private Secretary to the Premier), J. F. Andrews (official reporter), and the representatives of the New Zealand Times and Auckland Star. The trip by the steamer 'Wellington' to Whangarei initiated the journey into the northern wilderness, and the party made Marsden Point and steamed up the tortuous though pretty arm of the sea that leads to the jetty and railway on the following morning. The sea jaunt had proved a delightful inauguration of the tour, and no one had had any cause to bemoan unruliness or insubordination in the gastric regions. On the landing-stage, cordial, and his jolly countenance wreathed in welcoming smiles, stood Mr. Robert Thompson, member for the Marsden electorate, and with him was Mr. Dobbie, well known to Aucklanders as the most successful orange cultivator in the district, and who is also manager of the railway traffic in this particular portion of the colony. Under the care of these willing gentlemen the run to the township was quickly accomplished, and the travellers at once adjourned to the Commercial Hotel, where host Bunyard had thoughtfully prepared a most excellent breakfast. The wants of the inner man had scarcely been satisfied, and a few telegraph messages received, considered, and the answers despatched, when the Premier was under weigh to fulfil the objects of his tour—to visit the toiler for kauri-gum in his lonely desolate haunts, and the Maoris in their most retired villages. Comfortably ensconced in a capacious brake, a start was made for Poroti, a settlement lying some seventeen miles almost due west of Whangarei, the centre of one of the best gumfields in the North and of the Urirorois, a tribe holding some 50,000 acres of first-class land. The road was of a very circuitous nature at the commencement of the journey, leading over a low range of hills. Once these were negotiated some very pleasant level country was traversed, the good metalled road being skirted on either side by thriving homesteads. A prolific crop of maize and a miscellaneous profusion of vegetable growth were eloquent testimonies to the rich productive quality of the soil, and their contemplation almost forced one into a state of dreamy reverie—to forget the present unnatural state of affairs, and picture the North a happy prosperous country with all the magnificent gifts and recources of a bountiful nature being similarly availed of and developed. Alas! this ideal was soon rudely disturbed and dispelled, not only by a complete change in the aspect of the land, but also by the most unceremonious jolting of our devoted vehicle. We had parted company with the settlers' best friend. Macadam, and, leaving behind the evidences of man's civilising hand for the nonce, had plunged into a region still clothed in all the glory and beauty of nature's original garments.

"Down the winding mountain-path on the far side of the range we were soon enjoying a scene which dwellers in the towns are seldom privileged to witness. The hills, thickly wooded with virgin bush, rose abruptly on our right, a fern-clad valley followed us on the left, and far away, restricting the vision, was the horizon of ranges—the eternal ranges. Small homesteads cosily nestled in the forest by the wayside were passed at long intervals, and blackened smouldering stumps and partially-cleared plots showed what a courageous and successful fight the lonely settler was waging with almost overwhelming forces. Several bullock-wagons, conveying kauri timber from a stretch of bush in the vicinity of Maungatapere, were quickly lost in the rear, and then we were left to ourselves and nature. But no more ruminating on the country as it ought to be was page 112 possible; all one's thoughts and energies were concentrated in devising the best and safest means of alighting from the coach the moment before it capsized or rolled over the embankment. That precious vehicle, however, seemed to take a fiendish pleasure in anticipating your decisions, and unless the calculations were carried on with both arms glued tightly round the rail you were in imminent danger of pitching headlong into space. These sensations were rendered doubly acute at times by the coach foolishly endeavouring (so it appeared to the occupants) to travel along the side of a house—the road would suddenly slope right away and form a very obtuse angle, along which the conveyance careered at a reckless pace, while its valuable freight looked anxiously into emptiness and pondered on the uncertainty of human life and the particular law of gravitation that kept the machine from rolling wildly into a stream some half-mile below. However, as nothing serious occurred, and as we continued to pass safely over many another murderous stretch of road, we concluded that a kindly Providence had extended us its protection, and therefore we once more turned our attentions to the wondrous beauties of nature. The road we were traversing was simply villainous in midsummer; its state during the winter months would defy adequate description by the most eloquent of writers—it could not be expressed in writing. Fancy that hilly, uneven, and, at places, precipitous surface made soapy by rains, and hundreds of the awful ruts and holes completely lost to view under several feet of water, and the reader may possibly have a faint conception of the difficulties and dangers experienced by those daring spirits who constitute the advance guard of civilisation in a new land. The ranges came to an end at last, and we bowled over pretty, low-lying country, skirting the edge of an extensive kahikatea bush, with the track meandering through a large area of flat, good land. The soil up to this point had been extremely patchy; for several hundred yards the coach had rolled smoothly across rich, black loam, and then churned up a white clayey stuff, this process having been repeated at intervals of longer or less duration. The settlement of Poroti was entered shortly prior to noon, and the Premier met a few representatives of the Uriroroi, a set of intelligent, muscular men. A chief named Hira te Taka greeted the Premier with the usual salutations, and explained that a meeting had been arranged for the afternoon. The notice of the visit had been very short, but a good gathering was expected. This hapu numbers some 108 Natives, who own over 50,000 acres of grand land, at present wasting all its substance in the propagation of fern, tea-tree, bush, and a miscellaneous assortment of weeds. The village differs from the ordinary style, inasmuch that the habitations are of sawn kauri timber, constructed after the European plan. A small cluster of houses is to be found at Poroti, but the Natives are scattered all over the country, and it was owing to this fact that the party of welcome was so meagre. There is one block of land containing 14,000 acres being surveyed, but the title has not yet been obtained.

"As several hours were to intervene before business, it was decided to pay a visit to the Wairau Falls, a natural wonder very little known outside the immediate vicinity. This is all the more surprising when it is considered that the falls rank among the largest in New Zealand so far as volume of water is concerned. The road was a repetition of the latter part of the journey to Poroti, only, if anything, much rougher. We were with the gumdigger all the time. Several whares, the only indication of whose presence was the small line of bluish-grey smoke ascending from the centre of tea-tree clumps, were noted along the track, and whenever the occupants were near a hearty 'Good day!' was exchanged. The last three-quarters of a mile to the water was a case of tramp, and soon, as we followed the track through the high scrub, a dull, sullen roar began to be distinctly heard. Suddenly, and without any warning save the noise of falling water, a most magnificent scene burst into view, and we gazed in rapture on a great sheet of water, churned and angry, descending in white feathery spray to the masses of rock some 80ft. below. The sheet must be nearly 200ft. broad, and when we saw it the volume of water had greatly diminished. In winter, our guides told us, the river is always flooded, and the commotion is truly terrific. The edge of the precipice projects over the base, and through the sheet-falling liquid can be discerned a profusion of beautiful ferns, which add an indescribable tint and charm to the scene. From the falls the river continues a broken course, resembling very much a series of small rapids. Adjacent to the falls, and hid amongst the dense growth of superb bush, are immense blocks of limestone, and several large caves, which were once the Native burial-places. The remains of old-time warriors still lie there in great numbers, but it is said the recesses have been pillaged of everything in the shape of curios, weapons, and implements. It was a hard tussle to tear away from this entrancing spot, but business was business, and the Maoris had to be met, so there was nothing for it but to get back as quickly as possible. During the return the Waitomotomo Block was pointed out. This belongs to the same tribe, and early in the sixties was the scene of a great intertribal battle. Evidences of the old pa still remain, but it has long been deserted. It was due to the efforts of Sir George Grey that peace was restored between these belligerents. Our 'Grand Old Man' visited the place in company with Major Von Sturmer. A peculiar story is related of Te Tirau, the chief of the hapu at that time. One of his men ran amuck and killed a woman. Sir George Grey pointed out to the chief that the unfortunate fellow was not accountable for his action, and extracted a promise from Te Tirau that blood would not not be spilt in revenge. Immediately subsequent to the page 113 departure of Sir George the chief caused a hole to be dug, and in this the madman was securely buried up to his neck. He provided amusement for the old women of the pa as long as they were in a humorous mood, and then his head was also covered and vigorous y stamped upon. That was his end.

"While retracing our steps an incident occurred which was thoroughly characteristic of the Hon. R. J. Seddon. Crossing a piece of swamp-land, a solitary gumdigger was met, armed with spear and spade, and with a collecting-sack slung across his shoulders. Mr. Seddon did not content himself with merely wishing the toiler 'Good day,' but, dismounting, shook hands with the man and made inquiries as to his luck. The digger was a typical specimen of his kind—intelligent, straightforward, and thoroughly good-natured. He was relieved of his tools, and the Premier was soon busily engaged spearing and turning up the rich black swamp-soil. These exertions were continued for five or ten minutes, but only a few specs of gum were collected. The digger remarked that luck varied greatly, and said it was a hard task to make a living just then. As time pressed, this nobleman of nature, who was immensely pleased at the Premier's geniality and kindly interest, and who said he would never forget the day, was left to pursue his weary labours, and the party returned to the hotel.

"After luncheon a representation of the gumdiggers of the locality interviewed the Premier on the burning topic. It may be as well to state here that this field is leased from the Maoris by Mr. S. Rawnsley, who employs over a hundred diggers. The field is one of the best in the country, and the diggers are a happy family, working for one of the most generous and considerate buyers in the colony. The deputation consisted of intelligent hard-working men who, although buried in an out-of-the-way part of the country, were evidently cognisant of all that was passing in the outside world. The proceedings at the meeting have already been published, and it would be mere recapitulation to give a report of the interview here. The requests were very similar to those put forth at the other centres, and the Premier's scheme for settling the diggers on the land was also propounded. This was very favourably received. Several Councillors interviewed the Premier in connection with local requirements, and the party then walked over to the Native settlement, where a goodly number of the tribe had collected by this time. The proceedings took place in the meeting-house, in which the Premier occupied the position of honour at the end of the building. The Hon. J. Carroll acted as interpreter. The Natives, comprising men and women, were squatted in a semicircle, facing Mr. Seddon, and all the children of the settlement were glued to the windows and door-cracks, watching the deliberations of the pakeha and Maori with all-absorbing interest. The Natives, although numerically weak, were very influential, and large owners of land. In response to the Premier's invitation to state their grievances, several of those present made statements. The first to speak was one of those Natives who have endeavoured by every means in their power to foster and further the estrangement and misunderstanding existing between the Maoris and the Government. He had travelled up from the East Coast to object in toto to the Native Land Purchase and Acquisition Act. He did not know why he objected, but he did. The others also objected, but admitted that they were entirely ignorant of the measure and its provisions. The Bill was fully explained by Mr. Seddon, who also promised, in reply to a request, that the Native Land Court should go to Poroti to investigate the blocks of land now being surveyed. One or two other local matters were dealt with in a manner satisfactory to the Natives.

"The party then returned to the brake, en route to Whangarei, and on leaving Poroti the gumdiggers gave three hearty cheers to Mr. Seddon and his Government. They were evidently very grateful to the honourable gentleman for the trouble he had undergone to visit them and endeavour to better their condition. As the anxiety with regard to accidents had subsided, the drive back in the moonlight was extremely enjoyable. The peaceful valley and quiet bush in the glimmering silver rays lay in calm repose on every side, the intense stillness being occasionally disturbed by the lowing of cattle and crying of night-birds. In the distance, where land was being cleared, several bush-fires relieved the landscape and gave an added charm to the enchanting scene. For miles this soft picture soothed the feelings, and made one think life was worth living after all. Then the evidences of civilisation, imperceptibly at first, changed the aspect and thoughts, and the transformation was completed on arrival at Whangarei, where the residents had made ready a banquet to do honour to the Premier and his colleague, the Hon. J. Carroll. There was a good representation of the townsfolk present, and the proceedings never lacked animation. The usual toasts were honoured, those of 'The Guests 'and' The Government' being enthusiastically received. The Premier, in responding, dwelt on the policy of the Government and the objects of his tour, and Mr. Carroll also spoke, referring in his remarks to the Native difficulty, which, he said, was not to be allowed to remain in its present state much longer. The Government had determined to legislate in this direction, but of course it would be premature to state just then in what precise form they intended to act. The gathering broke up close upon midnight with the general singing of 'Auld Lang Syne.'

"In the morning the Premier was seen by a patriarchal chief named Taurau, who wished the Government to have the Whaititi Block, which is now being surveyed, investigated by the Native page 114 Land Court. He wanted the land settled by the Court before he died, and was promised this would be done as soon as the surveys were completed. It seemed there was to be no rest for the travellers, and soon after the morning repast—as soon, in fact, as the Hon. the Premier could satisfy the demands of interviewers, whose numbers were legion—a start was made for the interior proper.

"A special train was in attendance to run over the Hikurangi railway extension, now rapidly nearing completion. One brief stoppage was made to enable Mr. Dobbie's little children to present Mr. Seddon with a basket of fine oranges, tastefully arranged among the foliage, of the tree, and a lovely boquet. Needless to say this gift, appropriate of the neighbourhood, was highly appreciated by the recipient. On sampling, the oranges were found to be really excellent and very luscious, despite the fact that the season had concluded some time previously. Several small coalpits were passed, and the train then entered another region of loveliness, stretches of virgin bush alternating with long reaches of fern-covered hills, and the contour of the country continually undergoing changes. The land in every stage—clothed in native verdure, partially subdued, and completely cultivated—could be observed during this journey, which drew to an end as Hikurangi was approached. Small clearings and diminutive cottages gave warning of the vicinity of a settlement, but the train continued its course past Hikurangi, an exceedingly prosperous little village laid out in the valley. The passengers on this occasion were the first to pass over the line, and no stoppage was made, in order that the distinguished visitors might proceed to the termination of the rails, where a gang of workmen were discovered busily employed laying down sidings and putting on the finishing touches to that already in position. This line taps a vast extent of coal-land and valuable kauri forest. At present it only reaches the extreme edge of a country rich almost beyond conception in natural wealth. At this spot, and within a stone's throw of the line, we were privileged to witness some very unique phenomena.

"The country here, it should be mentioned, is full of lime deposits, and great masses of stone are everywhere en evidence. Well, by some mysterious agency, enormous blocks of this substance, symmetrical and neatly squared as though a small army of masons had been labouring at them, stand one on another to a considerable height, forming a solid tower, and in every case with a large puriri or kahikatea tree rearing heavenward right from the centre. Perhaps in a couple of instances the trunks of the forest giants have subdivided, and, closely embracing the limestone, have entered into each other once more at the top and continued their upward growth as solid trees. These curiosities of nature's providing almost beggar description, and require to be seen to be appreciated and understood. The train then retraced its way to the township, and an adjournment was made to Rolleston's Hotel, where business was at once proceeded with. A large body of settlers and gumdiggers was present, and extended a hearty welcome to the Premier, who gave audience to the deputations in the billiard-room. This was quickly filled with able-bodied men, all evidently hard workers, and not too abundantly possessed of this world's goods. It was also manifest that they were there with a purpose, and not for the mere sake of being present. The settlers interviewed the Premier on local matters, and the gumdiggers' business was almost identical with that of the previous day. One suggestion was made by a digger to the effect that the Government in settling diggers on the land should reserve a piece of gum-country exclusively for those settlers. This would keep the field from ever being flooded, and would enable the settlers to make a little capital when required. Mr. Seddon thought this idea was worth consideration, although it received scanty consideration at the hands of his fellow-diggers.

"The wants of the inner man having once more been satisfied, Mr. Seddon and party bade farewell to Hikurangi, amidst ringing cheers from the settlers and gumdiggers. The conveyance that did duty on the previous day was again utilised, but it proved rather unwieldy and cumbersome. We were traversing the main trunk road of the North Island, and, to use a mild expression, its condition was deplorable.

"Our experience to Poroti had been bad enough in all conscience, but this trip was destined to be worse—very much worse. A slight hill was first ascended, and then the coach travelled through several miles of swamp, which was encompassed as far as the eye could reach by bush-covered ranges. Even at this early stage of the journey ruts and cavities drew attention to their existence in the most forcible manner, tossing one about in every conceivable and inconceivable direction, and causing our staid equipage to cavort and frisk to an unbecoming and painful degree. The surrounding high land gradually converged, and we were soon carefully picking our way through valleys and along mountain-sides in the midst of dense bush. Great boulders were strewn over the track at regular intervals, and always at places where ruts were absent; and, when both these failed, wooden culverts and bridges, rising perpendicularly from the road to a height of a foot or more, served to remind us of the joys of a settler's life in that particular, locality. In crossing a culvert or bridge, the horses unconcernedly banged the front wheels against the wooden wall, then pulled altogether and surmounted the obstruction, walked to the other side, stepped down, and quietly waited while the attachment behind fell with an awful thump on to the road beyond. This exhilarating experience became frequent, then familiar, and finally monotonous, before the drive ended, and set one speculating if any portion of the body would possibly escape dislocation. But this was not the only page 115 diversion. In one or two hollows the wheels actually disappeared up to the axle even at that time of the year, and our Jehu entertained us with reminiscences of his experiences in the winter months. At one spot his horse bad had to swim, while the driver and passengers climbed to the uppermost seat, and prayed that the wheels would not wander from the road into the adjacent swamp-land. Again, a piece of ground some chains from the road would be scanned with interest, because it was there some unfortunate horseman discovered himself, after an ineffectual attempt to guide his steed through the waste of muddy waters. In the bush the land seemed good enough, but once clear of timber the country looked very barren and desolate. A settler's home with a small cleared plot was met with now and again, but habitations were very sparse. Fern and tea-tree scrub alternated with luxuriant bush growth, and occasionally large clumps of kahikatea would be encountered, keeping the interest ever sustained.

"At Hukuranui a short stoppage was made for refreshments, and we left considerably enlivened by the intelligence that several culverts were perforated with large holes, and an accompanying admonition to the driver to be very careful. Once more the road lay over mountain-ranges, at times winding along the edge of a steep timbered precipice. Some stately kauris were passed on the upper land, but forest quickly disappeared when the descent began. Another tract of uninviting country met the gaze, and continued to Towai, where the Premier was interviewed with regard to some local matters. There were about a dozen houses at this place, and in either direction throad was in as dilapidated a condition as was possible. Yet at the settlement was a carefully laid-out racecourse, with miniature grandstand, judge's box, and saddling-paddock. The anomaly was startling, and could not escape notice. Kawakawa was not very distant now, and soon was passed a cleared knoll, which was the scene of the famous Ruapekapeka fight during the Hone Heke war. A couple of the guns still lie embedded at the place, and there are also the remains of the old pa. The shades of night were rapidly enveloping the road and country by this time, and the uneven state of the track rendered a walking-pace imperative. Very little persuasion was required to induce the horses to adopt this rate of speed, and the drive at once began to get tedious in the extreme. The driver was also a cautious man, and, when informed that the coach might arrive at its destination before morning, but not possibly prior to midnight, sagely remarked, 'It is slow, but sure. I don't care how long I take, provided I get there.' We said no more after that, but fervently hoped that the vehicle would not develop a propensity to pick out the deepest ruts or skate down the mountain-sides. Once the coach violently canted to an angle of forty-five degrees from the perpendicular, and its devoted freight thought the end had come. The driver was calmly assuring, but, after getting his charge out of the dangerous predicament, admitted that he thought 'she was going.' She did go, but at something slower than the proverbial snail's pace, and thankful indeed were the passengers when the Native settlement at Waiomio was reached.

"This lies three miles outside of Kawakawa, and as it was late, the Premier, through the Hon. J. Carroll, informed the Maoris that he would come out and hold a meeting the following forenoon. The party then pushed on, arriving at Mr. Stewart's hotel about 8 o'clock. Mr. R. M. Houston, M.H.R. for Bay of Islands, was present to welcome the Premier and his colleague, who immediately proceeded to Stewart's Hall, where a banquet had been prepared in honour of the visit. Over fifty residents attended, and the proceedings were characterized by the greatest good feeling and cordiality. Considering the brief notice given, Mr. Stewart had accomplished wonders in providing good things, and making the table attractive, and, as the honourable guest said, 'If such excellent results attended a short notice, it would be impossible to imagine what kind of a feast would follow an extended intimation.' The healths of the Hon. E. J. Seddon and the Hon. J. Carroll were toasted with great enthusiasm, and 'The Government' was also warmly received. Mr. Seddon, in responding, referred to the objects of the tour, and also gave a concise outline of the Government policy. Mr. Carroll also replied in very felicitous terms, both speeches being loudly applauded. Several vocal selections were admirably rendered, the Premier contributing to the enjoyment with a capital song. The gathering continued to an early hour in the morning, and the Kawakawa people left quite charmed by the geniality of the first man in the land.

"Very few hours were devoted to slumber, and a start was made for Waiomio to meet the Natives as arranged on the previous evening. Accompanying the Premier were Messrs. R. M. Houston, M.H.R., J. S. Clendon, S.M., and Goffe, Native interpreter. A short drive brought the settlement into sight, and as the carriages rounded the bend in the hills the Native powhiri of welcome rose in wailing accents from a group of aged women, who could be seen in the distance gesticulating and waving the visitors on. The meeting took place in a fine large hall, and the Premier and guests were accommodated with chairs at the end of the building. An aisle was partitioned off, and on either side reclined the Natives, to the number of fifty, all following the business with the keenest interest. Amongst those present were some very old Maoris, with fine intelligent-looking countenances, despite the close network of tattoo-marks. These men were all warriors who had participated in the battles of the Hone Heke war, and had responded to the warcry in many a fierce fight. The Natives belonged to the Ngatihiui, a subtribe of the Ngapuhi.

page 116

"The Premier opened the proceedings by stating he would be willing to listen to any grievances, as he wished to ascertain the Native mind. This invitation was not accepted with such readiness as might have been expected. Two chiefs, Wiremu Pomare and Marsh Brown, expressed great pleasure at the visit of the Premier and the Hon. J. Carroll, but intimated they had nothing to say. They invited the Premier to attend a large meeting which was to be held at Gisborne shortly, and at which representatives from every tribe would take part.

"Mr. Seddon was very pleased and delighted to find the Natives so satisfied with their lot that they had nothing to say but words of welcome. They must be a contented people, because if they did not complain they must be a well-satisfied and happy community. During this tour he had held many meetings, but they were the first to assure him (the Premier) that there were no grievances to be ventilated. Mr. Seddon urged them to state their complaints, as they could get no redress other than through Parliament. Outside meetings would do no good, and if they hoped to get relief that way they would be relying on a broken reed. The Hon. J. Carroll spoke in a similar strain, good-naturedly chaffing the Natives on the total absence of grievances.

"To use a vulgar expression, this 'fetched' the members of the Ngatihiuis. Wiremu Pomare said the Government was well aware of their grievances. The Native-land laws were too stringent—they wanted something more simple, and less involved. The dog-tax was also pressing heavily upon them. They would discuss the various matters later on, and submit their complaints in writing. The Premier promised to give them careful consideration, and the meeting then terminated.

"On returning to Kawakawa no time was lost, and the Premier was soon en route to Waimate, where more Natives were to be met. This settlement lies in an opposite direction to Whangarei, and, once outside the township, the difference in the roads was very remarkable. We were bowling on a fine hard surface, perfectly even, with bridge and culverts in excellent order. This state of affairs was beyond comprehension until some gentle inquiries elicited the significant fact that all the County Councillors lived about that part of the country. All the mystery vanished after that explanation, and attention was directed to the view. The ubiquitous mountain-range bounded the vision on the left, being intersected by numerous ravines, in which dark-green pungas grew in profusion. Away on the other side stretched good valley-country. The range at last crossed the path, and bad to be surmounted. Scrubby land, with occasional kahikatea patches, followed, until a sudden bend, like the turn of a kaleidoscope, revealed a beautiful transformation. Away at our feet lay the grand estate of Pakoraka, the home of the Messrs. Williams. Fine grassy paddocks, dotted with hundreds of sheep, a large residence cosily nestling in a clump of familiar English trees, presented a pleasing contrast to the dreary waste. The property is chiefly composed of rich soil, and through this we sped for several miles. The country was more or less cultivated after this, and along the road many evidences of former Maori occupation were visible. Hills, terraced and surrounded by earthern ramparts, were all that remained to bear record of the stirring times of days long past, and of the ingenuity and capabilities of the Maoris when the spade was an unknown implement in the land.

"On arrival at the Courthouse at Waimate no Natives were to be found, the notice of the intended visit having evidently been too short. It had also rained heavily during the morning, and the Natives, not knowing the Hon. R. J. Seddon, had probably thought the inclemency would deter him. Turning back, however, several Maoris were met on horseback, and an adjournment was made to Spencer's Hotel, some two miles distant, where luncheon was served. Some dozen Natives were present, and they spoke to the Premier on personal matters of grievance only, reserving their most important subjects for the big meeting at Waima on the next day. They one and all welcomed the Premier, expressing great pleasure at having him amongst them. Mr. Seddon listened to their lengthy explanations and grievances, and then requested that they should be put in writing, so as to receive careful attention. This the Natives promised to do, well satisfied with the result of the proceedings. They were then addressed by the Hon. J. Carroll in their own tongue, and dispersed after a friendly handshake all round. A return was made to Kawakawa, and preparations completed for a long journey to Taheke on the morrow.

"Sunday, the day usually associated in most minds with quiet repose, was not to be one of rest for the Premier, and soon after breakfast the party started on the forty-mile drive in two conveyances, accompanied by Mr. J. S. Clendon, S.M. The route was the same as on the previous day for the first fifteen miles, and then branched off towards Ohaeawai. On approaching Pakaraka we were joined by a very ancient, though pleasant, old Maori, on a staunch black pony. This was Wiripiri Hongo, one of Hone Heke's principal fighting-men, who at seventy-five years of age was starting on a fifty-mile ride, besides having twenty-four hours previously traversed over ten leagues. This venerable warrior had had some stirring experiences. He belonged to the Arawa Tribe, in the Waikato, but when a boy was taken by the Ngapuhis, with whom he advanced to manhood. His prowess at warfare soon became conspicuous, and he acted in the capacity of drill-instructor. He was prominently engaged in all the big battles of the Hone Heke war, taking a leading part at Ruapekapeka, Ohaewai, Kororareka, and several other skirmishes. The fine old fellow fought som page 117 of his battles over again, telling us how at Ohaewai 122 British sailors were mowed down in ten minutes while attempting to invade the pa by charging. The Maoris were securely intrenched in earthen pits, removed from all danger of shot and shell, and had every opportunity to indulge in sharp-shooting. This foolish mistake in trying to dislodge the Natives so well protected resulted in awful slaughter to the European forces. The Maoris lost nine men, and the death-roll throughout the whole of the war was only sixty-seven. It may be remembered that a considerable amount of controversy took place over an incident which occurred at Ohaewai. It has been asserted by many that a seaman captured during the fight was subsequently burnt alive in order to propitiate the heathen gods. On being questioned, our battered companion said he did not remember such an act of barbarism, but admitted that portions of the body of a dead officer were cut off and burnt in the celebrating of some incantations. Another Native, who as a young man had been deputed to collect the dead after the fight, told us that the sailor had not been tortured alive. The gruesome story arose through the remains of the unfortunate fellow having been used as an illumination to enable the Natives to work at night. They discovered the body and piled kauri-gum on the top, thus going through the process of cremation. Many acts of heathenism were perpetrated, however, and it was chiefly owing to this reversion to superstition that Hone Heke abandoned the fight. At the commencement of the war he had emphatically stated that Christianity was to be strictly adhered to, and the many backslidings thoroughly disheartened and discouraged him, and eventually caused him to wash his hands of the whole affair.

"In passing through the district a stop was made to inspect the scene of the great fight. A church is now erected on the spot, but much of the original palisading is still standing. The pa was 200 to 300 yards square, and offered an impenetrable retreat. Mr. Clendon, who as a boy watched the attack from some scrub, pointed out the positions of the troops and the guns, and how the shots and shell passed right over the pa without doing any damage to the inmates. Hone Heke was lying inland, wounded, at that time, and on the second night following the battle the Natives evacuated the pa and proceeded into the interior. The Native preacher showed us a portion of one of the six-pounders. It was left by the Europeans, and when discovered by the Maoris was filled up with powder and pebbles, and burst.

"After dinner at Ohaewai the journey was continued through great tracts of Native lands. Kaikohe, a thriving settlement, was quickly passed, and in the valley we saw thousands of acres of first-class land. This is said to be as good as any in the colony, and is still uncultivated. The road after this began to jolt and threaten destruction to the vehicles, at places being strewn with great masses of rock. It led into another valley, through which ran one of the streams emptying into the Hokianga Harbour. Taheke was reached about 4 o'clock, and a stop was made there for the night. The Maoris' horses, which were to convey the party to Omapere, arrived shortly after, and the little place was soon labouring under quite an unusual amount of excitement. A start was made early on the next morning, the horses travelling over a road that was impassable for wheeled traffic. By the time the head of the valley leading to the settlement at Waima was in the near vicinity the party had swollen into an imposing and picturesque cavalcade.

"Warning of the Premier's approach had been sent ahead, and soon the powhiri came floating through the valley. Numerous camp-fires betokened extensive preparations, and men, women, and children were to be seen in great numbers. On dismounting, every Native person, to the number of nearly two hundred, formed in the two sides of a square, and were each shaken by the hand. This duty performed, all adjourned to the large meeting-house. The gathering there was in every way satisfactory, and was the largest and most representative addressed by the Premier since leaving Wellington. The chiefs of every tribe in the North were present, the two principal hapus being the Ngapuhis and Te Rarawa. The initial proceedings were of a very impressive character, and showed how much importance the Natives attached to the horero. Re Tetai, the greatest chief of the Te Rarawa Tribe, welcomed the Premier and the Hon. J. Carroll in very poetical metaphor, concluding with a song of welcome. Then was revived one of the ancient incantations, which was sung with tremendous vigour by the older men, and was accompanied by a steady stamp. It was a soul-stirring performance, holding one spell-bound. Words of welcome were spoken by all the leading chiefs, who one and all expressed great delight at the presence of the Premier. The Hon. Mr. Seddon then delivered a very able and forcible speech, which visibly affected his auditors, and which elicited frequent applause. Not a word that fell from the Premier's lips was lost, and subsequent events showed that careful note had been taken of all that had been said.

"An adjournment was then made to a large whare, where a splendid dinner was provided. Over a hundred sat down to a feast that spoke volumes for the culinary abilities of the wahines of the pa, and indeed the feast came as a surprise to all the Europeans. An added pleasure was given to the repast by the singing of several young fellows, who rendered several familiar old tunes. There were voices of great promise among the group, and all blended in perfect harmony and time and with an indescribable effect. Bursts of applause arose from the astonished pakehas after each contribution, and needless to say encores were absolutely insisted upon. Business seemed very dry and dull after this unique entertainment, and it lasted all the afternoon and right into the page 118 evening. After ascertaining that the Native Land Purchase and Acquisition Bill had become law, one Native rose to his feet with a screed of questions covering several quires of foolscap. The Premier's replies to the first half-dozen questions were so satisfactory and effective that the remainder were abandoned. Several other matters, including the dog-tax, were settled to mutual satisfaction, and Re Tetai then intimated that after serious deliberation the Natives intended to draft a Bill, which would be submitted to Parliament through their member, Hone Heke. He asked the Premier and Hon. J. Carroll to agree to sanction the measure. The Premier explained that the Bill would be presented to Parliament, and if good and wise would be accepted and become law, but if evil would be rejected. Several questions of land-disputes were discussed, and the Natives promised to put their grievances in writing and forward them to Wellington, where, the Premier promised, they would receive careful consideration. In his address the Premier announced very plainly that the Government was determined that settlement should be no longer blocked by the Native-land difficulty, and he urged the Natives to have the titles ascertained and the land surveyed. The party again partook of the hospitality of the Maoris, and the proceedings then took the form of a musical evening. The gathering was one that would probably never occur in a lifetime again, and it was brought to a conclusion by the combined singing of 'Auld Lang Syne' and the National Anthem. We had been royally entertained, and the Natives only regretted that the Premier could not stop over night at the settlement. At 9 o'clock everybody was in the saddle, and a sixteen-mile ride in the moonlight brought us to Rawene at midnight.

"During the short stay, and before embarking on the river-steamer 'Te Aroha,' a craft formerly well known on the Waitemata, a deputation of the settlers of the district waited on the Premier and petitioned his good services on behalf of the roads of the district. They thought the honourable gentleman was cognisant of their requirements in this respect, having travelled over the roads himself. If the Government could take over the control of the roads and have them metalled the residents would be everlastingly grateful. Mr. Seddon examined several of the balance-sheets, and found that the cost of administering the district was nearly 75 per cent, greater than the expenditure on the roads themselves. The discussion disclosed the fact that settlement and progress were being retarded for want of roads and the miserable condition of those already in existence. Some amusing features were related even in connection with this heartrending state of affairs. One County Councillor, replying to the Premier's advice to take full advantage of the rates and the means of collecting the same, said they had a unique difficulty to contend with. The settler pointed out his crop of, perhaps, pumpkins or melons, and invited the collector to take his rates out in produce. He had raised the stuff off the land and could do nothing with it, and he would like the Council to try their hand at disposing of it. He had no money, and if his offer were not acceptable, well—a shrug of the shoulders was very expressive. Mr. Seddon inquired if the Council wanted a grant for the construction of a storehouse also, but was answered in the negative. The deputation assured the Premier that there were miles of good land which would be quickly settled if roads were only provided. The roads they had were utterly inadequate, and were preventing the settlement of excellent country. The assistance of the Government to improve the roads to several specified townships was asked, and the Premier said he would glean the fullest information of the subject, and see what could be placed on the estimates next session. One or two minor matters were also dealt with.

"The party then left by the 'Te Aroha' for the Hokianga Heads, being accorded a hearty send-off by the Rawene residents, who assembled on the wharf to bid them good-bye. The steam down the river towards the Heads, although very short, was extremely pleasant, and our pleasure was further enhanced by the hearty welcome accorded by Mr. Webster on arrival at the small jetty at Heads Point. Mr. Webster, who is one of the oldest settlers in Hokianga, having been an intimate friend of the great warrior Tamati Waka Nene, and a participator in all the big wars that placed the lives of the hardy pioneers of civilisation in the North in the greatest jeopardy, has a lovely estate in this part of the district, and at his residence the party was very hospitably entertained. A very refreshing luncheon was discussed with great zest, and the fruit at the table was an eloquent unspoken testimony of the capabilities of the country for fruit-producing. Pears, grapes, figs were there in profusion, very luscious, and matured to perfection. A stroll through the fine orchards was also greatly enjoyed. Mr. Webster has several fine clumps of bananas, and the fruit was almost as good as the Island production. The remainder of the stay was devoted to inspecting the treasures and curios which Mr. Webster in the course of his varied exciting peregrinations has collected in great numbers. Some are very rare and valuable. We saw the cup which Her Majesty the Queen presented to Tamati Waka Hene in recognition of his services on behalf of the Europeans during the critical period of their lives, when Hone Heke was on the warpath. The first petition ever framed in North Auckland, with the original signatures attached, is in Mr. Webster's keeping, and several manuscript almanacs and shipping-lists of 1840 and 1841, together with many unique and valuable documents, were spread out for our inspection. A very interesting visit was terminated early in the afternoon, and the journey through the wilds was resumed, the company being mounted on some very fresh steeds. The course lay along the page 119 beach for a couple of miles, past Omapere and close to the bar at the Heads, over which the surf was breaking in great masses of white foam, and with a dull thunderous roar. The track then led across a low range of hills, fringed with fern, tea-tree, and native bush, and still skirting the coast-line. The road had the usual clay surface, being rutty at places, and, although affording decent travelling at this time, must be horrible for traffic in the winter months.

"The party was cantering past the Native settlement of Waimamaku, having made no arrangements to call in there, when the ringing of the school-bell gave warning that the Natives were desirous of having an audience with the Prime Minister, who was seen in that region for the first time in the history of the colony. The Premier was received outside by the chiefs, and an adjournment was then made to the schoolroom. The subsequent proceedings were of a gratifying character, and showed that some of the advice tendered by Mr. Seddon on previous occasions had proved acceptable. The object of the gathering was broached by Iraia Toi, Chairman of the School Committee, who said that the tribes of the district were desirous of having the education extended to the Sixth Standard. At present a child could not advance beyond the Fourth Standard at the school, and the parents would not send them away to Te Aute or St. Stephen's on account of the dangers of sickness and death. Mr. Seddon said he entirely approved of this plan, and would discuss the matter with the Minister of Education. The episode had afforded him much pleasure, even more than had the meeting at Waima. Mr. Seddon concluded his remarks amidst loud applause and cordial smiles. At the Premier's request, the children were marshalled, and rendered several songs very prettily. Two of the female scholars also read passages in capital style, showing how careful and efficient had been the tuition of the head teacher, Mr. Winkelmann. The children were very healthy and intelligent, and appeared to take a great interest in their studies. Some really excellent specimens of drawing were inspected by Mr. Seddon, the maps being especially good. The honourable gentleman again expressed his pleasure at being present, and finished by exhorting the children to resolutely pursue their studies, and attend regularly.

"In the saddle once more, a sharp canter brought the meandering valley-road to an end, and soon a sullen and continuous roar announced the surf-beaten shore to be rapidly drawing near. The outlet of the valley closely resembled an American cañon, the hills being high and precipitous, and almost adjacent. Through this the thunder of the waves reverberated and rolled, mating a deafening noise. On emerging, a glorious scene presented itself to our enraptured gaze. Away to the left, and unbroken as far as the eye could discern, lay a magnificent stretch of sand, bounded on the landward side by diminutive cliffs, and receding at an even grade into the wild, surging waters. Up this beach great solid walls of living liquid came charging, curling, and leaping in their potency and strength, and threatening to overwhelm everything within reach, only to be transformed into a white seething cauldron, and repeat the process ad infinitum. The moon had ascended over the ranges, and far at sea the cloud-banked horizon was distinctly visible. It was a truly wonderful picture, holding one spellbound and enchanted. Along this sand, accompanied by the angry music of the waves, the travellers rode for a couple of miles, and then, making a detour over a kind of sand-dune, pulled up at Messrs. Jarvie Brothers' Kawerua Hotel, in full view of the vast heaving waters of the Southern Pacific. Here the night's rest was much appreciated, as on the previous evenings business had absorbed the greater portion of the hours usually devoted to slumber. A dip in the 'briny' and a rough-and-tumble in the surf, was extremely exhilarating in the morning, and vastly revived our languishing energies. Several gumdiggers arrived at the stores to transact business before our departure, and a chat with one revealed the fact that men in that locality were in comfortable circumstances. The majority were making between £1 10s. and £2 per week, although many were holding back their gum for an improvement in the market. If a man could not make a living he was, to use the expression of the informant, a 'thorough loafer.' Many of the Austrians, whose influx caused such a stir recently, are camped in this part of the colony, being located about six miles beyond Kawerua. Some little time ago nearly eighty of these aliens were in the district, but now the number has lessened considerably. They live very frugally, work from daylight to dark, and return to the land of their birth as soon as a sum of money is amassed. None are cultivating the soil, but merely extracting the gum-wealth. They always fraternise and partake of one common meal. Several of the men in this district are climbers—they scale the giants of the forest and gather the gum that has exuded from the trunk and branches. A tree that has been untouched will yield a couple of hundredweight of the valuable commodity, and handsomely remunerate the searcher for his day's labour. Such trees are very rare now-a-days.

"To horse yet again, and the first six miles of the journey was over the unrivalled West Coast beach. The sand was perfectly level, and around the horses' legs surged and roared a confused mass of breakers. It was hard to leave this wild solitary grandeur, but the track struck inland and it had to be followed. Through winding scrubby country and along the mountain-path, we at length plunged into a heavily-timbered bush. Just before leaving the open land a Maori funeral cortege was passed pursuing its painful way down the steep mountain-side. The remains, which were those of a little boy, were carried on a litter by four stalwart fellows, and the relatives followed behind on horseback. This mournful procession was en route from Opunake to Waimamaku—a page 120 weary tramp of thirty miles. It showed the tender respect the Maoris have for their dead. The boy belonged to Waimamaku, and he was to be interred there, the trouble and exertion being no consideration. Things were now made somewhat uncomfortable by rain, which started to fall in thick showers. On either side of the track lay dense masses of native vegetation of every description, with here and there great kauris and ratas towering above their lesser brethren. Ferns, with their delicate filagree-work, fringed the path, the whole forming a picture beautiful beyond conception or description. This virgin forest stretched on either side, and it was patent to the most inexperienced eye that the soil was of exceptional quality. The growth was very prolific, and it was an easy task to imagine this country soon thick with happy, prosperous homesteads. Nature has been bountiful indeed, and the soil is wreathed in smiles without the customary tickling by human hands. It only needs a substitution of the vegetable matter to complete the transformation. A strong contrast met the vision on emerging from the region of bush. Fern and scrub once more reigned supreme, although the land was still of a dark, rich nature. A stop was made at a half-way store until the rain ceased, and here an impromptu deputation of diggers, who had also sought shelter, met the Premier. They were very anxious to know if something could not be done to prevent the 'ring' from depressing the gum trade, and also to stop the influx of Austrians. They said it was very hard to make a living at present. Mr. Seddon spoke of the proposal to settle the gumdigger on the land, so that he might become a useful settler. Mr. Seddon remarked that the guindiggers had been very reckless in the past, and were now commencing to feel the effects of their improvidence. One hardy old man replied that a person working up to his waist in a swamp needed something to keep the cold out. There were very few' parts of the world he was not acquainted with, and he had tasted some very decent liquors at Home and in foreign lands. He had never tasted whiskey in New Zealand, however, and he had been in the Auckland Province for many years. He was firmly convinced that the vile concoctions the diggers had to swallow emanated from the druggists' stores of Auckland. He was offered a 'wee drop' of the real stuff by a member of the party, and the happy smile that overspread his countenance betokened peace, perfect peace, at last. He could die happily now, and the other diggers who sampled were also very eulogistic in referring to the 'mountain dew.'

"The sky had cleared by this time, and the party pushed on again. From the brow of the hill the peaceful waters of the Pacific could be discerned, and then a magnificent kauri-forest was entered. Enormous trees, rising perpendicularly to a great height, branchless and flawless, lined the path and mountain-side, and afforded endless interest. Millions of feet of valuable timber were scattered over the country for miles around, and will remain so for years to come. Here and there huge ratas intruded upon the gaze, and numerous rata-vines, clutching with their death-dealing embrace the trunks of other trees preparatory to becoming the tree itself, were to be seen in all stages of development. This vast kauri-forest accompanied us to the head of the Kaihu Valley, which comprises some of the finest land in New Zealand. It runs away inland, and down to Dargaville, and the rich black soil can hardly be bottomed. The railway-line extends to Opanake, where the Premier and the Hon. J. Carroll were welcomed by Mr. Dargaville, and Mr. Harding, Chairman of the County Council. The seventeen miles of railway which traverses this beautiful block of land soon came to an end, and Dargaville, thickly dotted with houses, announced that bush regions, barren lands, and isolated habitations had been left behind. No kai had been partaken of since leaving Kawerua, and the evening meal was consequently much appreciated. Immediately afterwards business was proceeded with, the executive committee of the gumdiggers first engaging attention.

"The chairman of this representative committee asked that the Government would employ diggers during the present depression. He suggested that roads should be started to Crown lands, which could then be opened for settlement. Many of the diggers were very willing to settle, and if they had the gum-lands to assist them, that would serve in lieu of capital. They wanted some legislation enacted to prevent the influx of aliens and unemployed from the other colonies. The chairman assured the Premier that the Austrians merely came to the colony to make money. They said themselves that they would not settle here, but meant to return to their own country. He thought a license should be issued, and only to persons who had been in the colony for twelve months. A royalty should also be put on gum, but the digger would be glad to be free to buy and sell where he pleased. He complained bitterly of the truck system, which he said was pressing cruelly on the men. A royalty of 1s. 3d. could go to the County Council (he said) for rates, to give diggers a vote as ratepayers, and a 2s. 3d. rate could go to form a benefit fund for the diggers. He said many men were in a state of destitution on the gumfields, and at present the prospect for the winter looked very black indeed. The highest rate of wages was about £1 5s. a week, and it took an able-bodied man to make that amount.

"Mr. Seddon said he was considering the advisability of opening up the land for settlement and reserving the gum-lands to enable the settlers to procure some capital. (Applause.) If there was any road making that would promote settlement it was desilable that the work should be proceeded with. This would absorb a lot of labour from the gumfields. He referred to the page 121 difficulty of dealing with the alien question. Once the men were here we could not control their methods of gaining a livelihood. That would be unconstitutional, and would involve a serious difficulty between England and foreign nations. In connection with Mr. King's remarks on the gum-market, the Agent-General had been instructed to inquire in England, on the Continent, and in America, and to endeavour to ascertain the cause of the present low prices. The Government would then know how to act. (Applause.) The truck system had been already dealt with by the Government, Mr. Seddon remarked, but that carried on in connection with the gumfields was very difficult to deal with. More agreement between employer and employé was necessary.

"The Premier said that as regards the main body of the gumdiggers the only thing the Government can do, as far as he could see at present, was to put in hand the different roads for which money had been voted, and put the married men who are now on the gumfields, as far as practicable, at constructing these roads. He stated that he was communicating with the Agent-General to ascertain the value of gums in the American, British, and Continental markets, and purposes purchasing samples of the different gums and sending them to him so as to assist him in ascertaining the Home value. This proposal greatly pleased the executive of the Gumdiggers' Association.

"The Premier told them plainly that there is no hope of the Government purchasing the gum, and they admitted it was impracticable. In view of permanently settling the people in the vicinity of the gumfields, the Premier said he intended to consult with the Minister of Lands as to throwing open more good land for settlement near the gumfields, and at the same time reserving a portion of the gum-bearing land for the exclusive use of those settlers, so that a portion of their time would be engaged in improving their land and another portion of their time could be devoted to digging for gum, which would stand to them as capital and would help them to ultimately become independent of the industry. In support of this scheme the Premier found that a large number of the settlers in the several districts he has passed through attribute their success to having been able to go and dig for gum occasionally, and by that means pay for their flour, sugar, and tea.

"The Premier said it was evident the Government would have to consider the advisability of resuming the ownership of all gum-lands, a statement which was received with great favour. The whole question, he promised, would be fully considered by the Cabinet at the conclusion of the tour. It would be premature to say anything at present.

"The deputation thanked Mr. Seddon with acclamation, and wisked him every success, and long life to the Government.

"The Chairman of the County Council then saw the Premier in regard to several local matters. He urged the construction of a road to open the two blocks of land lying between the Maunganui Bluff and the Kaihu Valley, now owned by the Crown. This was the best land in the colony, and suitable for small settlements, and would be eagerly taken up if placed on the market. A sum of £2,000 has already been voted by the Government, but this was a mere drop in the bucket. It was explained that some eleven miles of road had already been made, and Mr. Seddon said that land held by the Government and suitable for settlement would be opened up at the earliest opportunity. Mr. Mueller corroborated the Chairman's statement that the block comprised some of the finest land in the colony.

"Business was not concluded until 11 p.m., and then the party—accompanied by Mr. R. Thompson, M.H.R., who rode over from Whangarei—embarked on the steamer 'Durham' for Pahi. The vessel sailed down the Wairoa River, one of the largest in New Zealand, and navigable for nearly a hundred miles, past Aratapu, where several vessels were loading, and into the Kaipara Harbour, where the ocean swell soon made its presence felt. It was just about daylight when the 'Durham' rounded the sandbank which runs to opposite the signal-station, and once more started to thread its way inland in a north-east direction. This estuary is deep and wide, and, with the others in the vicinity, abounds in mullet and fish of every species. The rising sun tinged the cliffs with gold, and up the channel the scene was much prettier than is usual with tidal rivers. The vessel made fast to the Pahi jetty opposite the timber-mill, and during the forenoon the travellers strolled and pulled about, visiting the district.

"Intelligence had arrived that settlers from Matakohe and the neighbourhood were coming down in a launch, and early in the afternoon they had an audience with the Hon. Mr. Seddon in the hotel. The matters touched on were all purely local affairs. The Paparoa settlers drew the Premier's attention to a vote that had been passed for a road between Paparoa and Waikeke. They knew £350 had been passed, but could never get it, and a contract which had been accepted could not be proceeded with. The vote, if not availed of, lapsed at the end of March, and they were very anxious. The Premier pointed out that when the Government had borrowed capital, the money was given immediately after its appropriation, but now they had to wait until the revenue came to hand. He assured the settlers that the vote would not lapse, and was heartily thanked for this good news. They also wished that a policeman might be appointed to the district, as sheep-stealing was very rife, and the settlers were utterly powerless to cope with the nuisance. Mr. Seddon promised to bring the matter under the notice of the proper department, and see what could be done