Wakatipu

Queenstown.-(Hotels, Eichardt's and McBride's). The train leaves Dunedin every day for Kingston (174 miles), on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, where a steamer is in waiting to convey the visitor to Queenstown, round which is some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. "Wakatipu," says Mr. Green, "is amazingly beautiful; the only lake in Europe which can surpass it is Lucerne, but to see no more of Wakatipu than is to be seen by a trip to Queenstown and back is to see Lucerne and omit the Bay of Uri." Within easy access of Queens-town there are some exceedingly pretty walks. That to the water-works is about one-and-a-half miles, and the bush scenery thereabouts is very fine. The park provides a convenient and pleasant promenade. A beautiful scenic road along the lake side is being extended to Moke Lake, distance about nine miles. This will be a charming short excursion. The ascent of Ben Lomond (5747 feet) which generally occupies a day, is accomplished even by ladies. To within 1,500 ft. of the summit there is a bridle track, and from

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there to the top the foothold is good. The panorama from the summit of Ben Lomond is unspeakably fine From here can be seen the Forbes and Humboldt Mountains, the Shotover Valley, a magnificent view of Mount Harris and the Richardson Ranges, and the aptly nanied "Remarkables." The Rev. Dr. Waddell appositely quotes from Ruskin's "Modern Painters" the description of the Rochers des Fysabove the Col d' Anterne, and applies it to the Remark ables: "In inany spots inaccessible with safety dark in colour, robed with everlasting mourning for ever seeming to totter like a great fortress shaken by war, fearful as much in their weakness as their strength, and yet gathered at every slide into darker frown and unhumiliated threatening: for ever incapable of comfort or healing from herb or flower, nourishing no root in their crevices, touched by no hue of life on buttress or ledge; knowing no shaking of leaves in the wind, nor of grass beside the stream-no motion except that of the shivering shade and the dreadful crumbling of atom from atom in their corrupting stone." Such," says the Doctor, "is the Remark-ables-a waste of weary jagged precipices frowning down upon the blue depths of the water, and darkening

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high 8,000 feet of the blue depth of heaven." A most magnificent view of the whole country can be obtained from the summit of the Remarkables, the ascent of which can be made in a day, if an early start is made. Other delightful trips are those to Arrowtown via the Frankton Falls at the outlet of Lake Waka-tipu, and returning by Arthur's Point: Skipper's Point road (an easy day), well worth seeing for its rugged grandeur; Collins' Hay via the back of Bayonet Peaks and down Lochy river to Half-Way Bay; this trip takes one day, the steamer puts the traveller off at Collins' Bay, and calis for him late in the afternoon at Half-Way Bay. A guide, horses, or conveyances can be had at reasonable rates.

The trip to Pembroke, Lake Wanaka, over the Crown Range, is full interest. A sail up Lake Wanaka will be found delightful. Weeks could easily be spent here in exploring the beauties of the "district. There is very fine red-deer-stalking around Lakes Hawea and Wanaka.

The steamer trip to the head of Lake Wakatipu is fullofcharm. The tourist should if possible spend a week at Glenorchy. From Glenorchy, Paradise or Diainond Lake-a most delectable spot-may be visited.

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A very pretty drive is to Rees Valley and Lennox Falls. Those who wish to ascend Mt. Earnslaw (9,300 feet) may obtain guides, horses, and traps at Glenorchy. A splendid week's outing for a picnic party is to the Routeburn Valley and Lake Harris Saddle. The difficulties in the way are but slight, and the scenery is equal to that of the West Coast Sounds on a smaller scale. The beautiful Dart River is near by, and there are glaciers quite close to the valley. The visitor who wishes to go through to Martin's Bay via Hollyford River, lands at Greenstone. There are huts and grass paddocks all the way at convenient distances, and there is something new and enchanting at every turn. The Capels River and Rere Lake are lovely places for a day's outing.

Lake Te Anau and Milford Sound.

There is a track from Mt. Nicholas to the Te Anau road, via Mavora Lakes; or the tourist may return to Kingston, thence to Lumsden, and take the coach to Te Anau. Te Anau is the largest lake in the South Island. It is 42 miles long, and from one to six miles broad. There is a steamer on the lake, and the beauties of Te Anau can be seen from her deck. The scenery is not so grandlv rugged as at Lake Wakatipu, but it has a beautv all its own. The mountains surrounding the lake are densely wooded, "and the green sheen of

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the forest," as Dr. Waddell observes, "crowned with the gleaming snow above, makes up a picture which, for extent and loveliness, is unsurpassed." From the head of the lake, where there is a Government Accommodation House (" Glade House"), a track leads via the beautiful Clinton Canyon to the Sutherland Falls (17 miles) and Milford Sound (30 miles), and the country passed through is unequalled, for wealth of magnificent scenery in any country in the world Even the beauties of the Yosemite Valley sink into comparative insignificanee when compared with the inexpressibly lovely Canyon of the Clinton, and the Sutherland Falls (1904 feet) are the highest in the world. There are Government shelter-huts. Well supplied with food and bedding, at convenient intervals along the track, with residential cooks and Government guides to attend to travellers. There is an accommodation house (Sutherland's) at the head of Milford Sound; an oil launch is available for exeursions round this splendid fjord.

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Lake Manapouri

From Te Anau there is a vehicle road to Lake Manapouri (12 miles). This is the loveliest of all the lakes. Almost entirely surrouncled by mountains, studded with countless wooded islands, and indented with lovely little bays, Manapouri, or perhaps more correctly Manawa-popore-the lake of the "throbbing heart"-is a dream of beauty, a joy for ever. There is a steamer on Manapouri, which can be engaged to explore the beauties of the lake itself and also go six miles down the Waiau River, where there is splendid fishing. From here a vehicle road leads to Otautau railway station (one day), whence train may be taken for Invercargill.

Months, aye years, could be spent in this wonderful country, and there would still remain undiscovered beauties. How very few of those who visit Queens-

town see the real glories of the surrounding country ! Tourists' should allow themselves at least a month for the Lakes and Sounds trip. A very large book might easily be written about the Cold Lakes, but these wondrous glories must be seen; no man living could do justice to them. All the writer cando is to beg of the visitor not to leave Maoriland without spending at least a month about Wakatipu, Manapouri, Te Anau and Milford Sound.

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