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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 77

VI. — Retrospect

page 23

VI.

Retrospect.

In reviewing the history of the settlement during the first year of its existence, the News took a very extended view of its importance, saying: "As pioneers and founders of a new colony, we consider the world has a right to demand the benefit of that years' experience, more especially that portion of intending settlers who have been 'anxiously waiting' for disinterested information from parties already located here. In making our observations we beg distinctly to assert that while we are unavoidably compelled to omit many favourable circumstances instead of exaggerating those already reported, we prefer rather the mere publication of facts with little or no comment whatever, considering that a feeling of duty towards intending immigrants, who may be influenced by our writings, and a principle of true policy respecting our adopted country alike demand honesty on such an occasion."

Describing the position and appearance of Dunedin, which are faithfully portrayed, expressing the opinion that the low range of sandy formation to the eastward of the hay shuts out the sea which must at one time have flowed through what is now the harbour. With this opinion many will be disposed to agree, although the time when must have been very remote, as near the centre of the Flat, until within recent years, two clumps of trees existed, principally white pine, which must have taken centuries to attain their dimensions. It is also noted that the unevenness of the ground, though it may render the town more picturesque, unfits it in some measure for business purposes, and we have little doubt as the number of inhabitants increase, the main body of the town will be more near the North-East Valley and Pelichet Bay, on what, at the present time, presents the appearance of a swamp. A few good drains would, however, carry off all the surface water and leave fine level sites for building purposes. Could the author of this remark revisit his ancient habitation, his exclamation would be: "What a change is here!"

With a feeling of genuine admiration, the News further says:—"The small hills at the back would form delightful spots for crescents and detached villas, offering a prospect of the page 24 bay and town with a peep at the ocean beyond, a little to the left of which a 'gradual swelling pile' rises, with a fine commanding view of the ocean, the whole of the town, and the wood-covered heights on each side of the harbour. Here rest the mortal remains of some of our fellow-settlers—away from the confusion and noise of a town—taking their 'long and lasting sleep,' in the midst of Nature's life and loveliness. Below may be seen the edifice set apart for a church—a plain wooden building with a Public Library appended—the Manse, and Captain Cargill's residence, neat mansions of wood, towards the south end of the town, with small gardens attached; Mr Yalpy's house, forming a conspicuous object, but not a very pleasing one in point of architecture; the principal surveyor's house on a small piece of rising ground, with a fanciful verandah; a confused cluster of buildings round the Commercial Inn and the Royal Hotel—these are some of the most prominent objects in the picture of the town. Here and there, too, dotted among the houses may be seen the painted top of a gipsy-like tent, or the more rustic dwellings of clay and grass, peeping from amid a bower of trees. The number of houses is about 110, a small garden attached to many of them sufficient for growing a few vegetables. We have a police magistrate, two physicians, one solicitor, three merchants, three gardeners, two butchers, two bakers, five shoemakers, one tailor, several storekeepers, carpenters, and sawyers. We have also two hotels, a newspaper, a gaol, a jetty, two good barracks, comfortably fitted up for the reception of immigrants, a brickfield, and a stone quarry. The town is but moderately supplied with good water, though a slight outlay would remedy this evil. The Water of Leith, a fine clear stream, is at a short distance, and might easily be conveyed in to the town. Wood is rather an expensive item in family economics—about 12s a cord. The labouring classes, however, generally employ their children to bring it from the neighbouring bush, or cut it when the day's work is done."

Such is a faithful picture of the ways and means of the primitive town, now the handsomely built and picturesque City of Dunedin, of which all are so proud.

So that no false impression might be conveyed the, cost of living, and the quality of goods supplied are tersely given. "The meat is of excellent quality; poultry and eggs are scarce; bacon and pork slightly deficient in flavour; potatoes of all qualities—those grown on new ground are not so good; tea very inferior; rice, sugar, currants, raisins, and page 25 spices very high in price, and frequently unobtainable. (A direct communication with Sydney has commenced, which will give a constant supply of these articles at a reasonable rate.) Vegetables, it is expected, will be very cheap; clothing is generally about 50 per cent, or 60 per cent, above Home prices; glass, earthenware, kitchen utensils, and household furniture about 100 per cent, more than the English markets." Unfortunately flour and bread are not referred to, and oatmeal was hardly dreamt of. A lament is made that "the extremely high price of sawn timber is a serious drawback to the increase of the town, the sawyers charging from 14s to 20s per 100 feet at the pit. This and the expense of carting the wood renders it impossible for many of the settlers to build for themselves comfortable houses. The scarcity of large timber—the distance of the trees from each other—and they want of good roads and means of conveyance may, to a large extent, account for these high prices, but we think the sawyers will find it to their own interests to reduce the price, otherwise it will be imported from the 'sister settlements.' "

Port Chalmers or Koputai is then described. "Situate about half-way between the entrance of the harbour and its head. Every available part of the ground has been taken advantage of to form town sections along the shores of the bay and extending back to the opposite bay. The Custom House, Post Office and Treasury, two merchants' stores, two inns, a butcher's shop, and a few private houses on the shores of the bays and coves adjoining constitute at present the whole of the township, while its advantages, from a commercial point of view, are so numerous, that we have no doubt ere long it will prove a prosperous rival to Dunedin. The population amounts to about 150 souls. Ships of any tonnage can anchor within a short distance of the town, perfectly sheltered from the strongest winds and uninfluenced by the tides. The depth of water is sufficient to enable coasters to heave down at high water mark to repair, paint, etc., a facility which few harbours besides can boast of. Additional advantages might also be obtained from ware-houses built partly on the hillside south of the bay, where there is plenty of water to enable vessels to load and unload direct. Ships requiring provisions, wood and water, will find it the most convenient harbour in New Zealand, and we have the testimony of several captains of vessels employed in the whale fishery to the same effect. Looking at the many natural advantages which the Port possesses, we have no hesitation in saying that the arrival of a few more page 26 immigrant ships will make it a busy, industrious, and thriving place." So much for Port Chalmers.

Rural affairs arc next touched on, comprising every variety of lands only wanting inhabitants and roads to make them superior to the oldest settlements, are too lengthy for our present purpose. Fuller details will shortly appear.

"The weather is very variable, particularly in April, May, June and July, which may be considered as the winter season. The rain is usually accompanied with a cool S.W. wind sweeping from the ocean across the bay and, over the town, which, from its situation at the head of the harbour, is also exposed to the strong N.E. winds. These are the prevailing winds—the former blowing directly out and the other directly in to the harbour. The range of the thermometer is, however, very small, the lowest mean average being about 54 degrees and the highest 68 degrees. The principal complaints are of a rheumatic character, resulting from the sudden changes of the weather, and the unsubstantial character of most of the dwellings. With good houses, lined and properly shingled, many of these complaints would disappear, and the salubrity of the climate would never be called in question, the rosy faces of the young children being proof positive that the climate is much superior to the one they have left behind them. It is also well adapted for the growth of vegetables and grain, and a continued succession of crops may be grown throughout the year. There is seldom either snow or frost in the winter season for more than one or two days. The mornings and evenings are generally cool, but it is fine and warm in the middle of the day. In the summer season the thermometer rarely rises above 80 degrees in the shade, accompanied by a pleasant breeze. The soil varies considerably throughout the district. Where the hills are covered with short flax and fern the soil is generally poor, and will scarcely repay the outlay in cultivating it. In the valley the soil is rich, but frequently swampy, requiring good drainage before it can be worked with advantage and profit. The bush land is generally the best for instant crops, and when once cleared it is very productive."

With regret, it is added, this was the only opportunity Mr Graham had of giving his opinion, as before next Anniversary Day his paper, the News, was numbered among the dead.