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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 75

Upper Reaches of the Lake

Upper Reaches of the Lake

proved particularly fine and attractive as we steadily made our way through the close of the long stretch of 60 miles of water comprised in our course from Suodgrass's to the [unclear: bev] As the towering mountains closed in on us, with their magnificent proportions standing; out in bold relief, and the waterway became narrowsr and narrower, we felt the influence of the scene amidst the closing hours of the waning day, and were glad to learn that one of the figures on the beach we were rapidly approaching was that of the well-known guide Mr D Ross, whose better acquaintance we were to have the pleasure of making. Ten minutes' walk through a pretty bush track brought us to our retting place for the night—Mr Garvey's accommodation house, near a bend of the Clinton River; and I am afraid the sudden influx ut 12 people without any warning, where usually probably not more than three or four appear at a time, must have proved somewhat of a surprise to our host and his worthy helpmate. The resources of Prospect House were taxed to their very uttermost, but by skilful contriving, sleeping accommodation was after dinner eventually arranged for both visitors and the family of the house. The sandfly nuisance was here in virulent form. Notwithstanding veils, gloves, pungent [unclear: scnts,] &c., they found us an easy prey, and we with difficulty remained outside in the earlier part of the evening, much as we wished to make ourselves acquainted with our immediate surroundings and enjoy the view of the noble Cinton Valley and its magnificent mountains which stretched away directly in front of us. Mount Mackenzie (named after Thomas of that ilk, in recognition of his exploratory feats) stands boldly out in the distance at the head of the valley, and is a striking feature. Mr Garvey has undoubtedly planted his house in a situation which will in the course of time enable him to make a beautiful place. With the aid of his family he has done an immense lot of work in making tracks through the surrounding bush, and has also cut a track to the top of a great mountain—Skelmorlie,—whose base lies but a very short distance from the house. This track must have been a heavy work, but the time eccupied was wall spent, for the ascent of the mountain to a height of over 4000ft is now possible to all page 10 visitors of fair walking power. Indeed the ascent was made by two ladies of our party on the following day, and they returned laden with all sorts of precious specimens of the alpine flora they found on the higher slopes of the mountain—two distinct varieties of drossera or flycatcher, a very pretty little orchid, &c., &c. They were the first ladies to climb the mountain, and this honour the visitors' book of the house will duly record. Mr and Mrs Garvey's effort to provide comfortable accommodation for tourists in this far-away outpost of the lake country is deserving of all possible inccesi, and it is to be trusted that the tourist traffic to the Sutherland Falls and Milford Sound will steadily grow and enable them to increase the size of their house to an extent sufficient to enable them to meet all demands upon their resources.

A general conference as to the proposals for the morrow resulted in six of the visitors at the house deciding to start for the Sutherland Falls, two of them at leastintending to go on to Milford Sound. The writer and the other gentleman of his particular party were among the number, and after settling all necessary details we retired far the night to court sleep amidst our unusual surroundings The preparations for our departure and the walk to the Falls and to Milford Soand, under the guidance of D. Ross and one of the young Garveys, must be "continued in our next."

Glade House—not Prospect House, as I have previously erroneously called it—is astir betimes, and, breakfast over, preparations for the start for Sutherland Falls and Milfard Sound are actively afoot. Ross has been engaged by Dr D. and our New South Wales visitor to take them right through to Milford. The writer and the other male member of our own special party, who, it is supposed, may not reach further than Sutherland Falls, are to be piloted by one of the young Garveys. Mr and Mrs B. determine to accompany the party, and be guided in thtir walk by circumstances. There is a hut every few miles, and if the pace of the others, proves to be beyond a lady's powers they have plenty of time to make the trip comfortably, at all events to the Beech Huts and Sutherland Falls, on sufficient direction being given them if the rest have to push on. Those who are new to this sort of thing are eager to be off, but our guides are mora deliberate in their movements, and want to make pure that nothing is forgotten; and the packing of swags has to be carefully done, for much of the comfort of walking depends upon a well-made and comfortably adjusted swag. Boss very kindly makes up mine for me, while Garvey packs up the 7lb of oatmeal, 7lb of biscuits, &c., which are to constitute our principal tucker, and which he is to carry. We have discarded coats and vests, and our swags having been properly fixed and mutual good-byes said and a photograph [unclear: of] group taken, we start in high spirits and [unclear: full] pleasurable anticipations, We have left [unclear: bet] a party of fire ladies in care of the only [unclear: rem] ing male member of the steamer's party, [unclear: si] South Australian friend, and we quite [unclear: un] stand that they must all have some [unclear: miatrust] the staying powers of the city men [unclear: unused] long and trying walks over mountain [unclear: pass] and bearing unusual burdens on their backs.