Boundaries.

The Marlborough Land District, occupying the north-east comer of the Middle Island, and containing about 2,560,000 acres of land, is bounded generally on the north and east by Cook Strait and the East Coast as far as the Conway River; thence by that river to its source; from this point, by straight lines, rivers, and the summits of watersheds to the western side of Tennyson Inlet, Pelorus Sound. From the Conway to Pelorus Sound it abuts on the Land District of Nelson.

The widest part of the district is from Cape Campbell to Tophouse, a distance of about sixty-seven miles.

Physical Features.

The district throughout is gerterally mountainous, but none even of the highest peaks are covered with perpetual snow, although Tapuaenuku, the highest of the Inland Kaikouras, attains an altitude of 9,462 ft. Of the Seaward Kaikouras, or Looker-on Mountains, the highest points are Kaitarau and Whakari, which are 8,700 ft. and 8,500 ft respectively. There are several lesser peaks, from 4,000 ft. upwards.

The view from Kahautara Bluff, south of Kaikoura Settlement, looking northwards, when the Looker-on Mountains are snow-capped, is said to be one of the finest in New Zealand.

Geologically, the district may be briefly described as follows: North of the Wairau River the rocks belong chiefly to the Upper and Lower Devonian series, with a belt of Silurian between them, embracing the country along the west of Queen Charlotte Sound to Cook Strait. Within these series auriferous deposits are found, and at present worked at Mahakipawa, Wakamarina, and Wairau Valley. In Endeavour Inlet an antimony-mine has been worked for some time. The country south of the Wairau River may be said to belong chiefly to the Carboniferous Age, with patches, along the coast and up the Clarence Valley, of Cretaceo-Tertiary and Lower Greensand formations; while along and between the Awatere and Clarence Rivers volcanic formation and numerous intrusive dykes occur. The Red Hills also, at the head of the Wairau Valley, are of volcanic origin.

Coal has been discovered in the neighbourhood of Picton, and in the Clarence Valley, but none has been as yet successfully worked within the district. A narrow belt of Tertiary limestone, suitable for building purposes, extends, with small interruptions, from Cape Campbell to the boundary of the Canterbury Provincial District. The Marlborough land may be divided into three classes: Open land, generally covered with associated grasses; forest-land; and intermediate, or land partly forest, partly covered with scrub, fern, or other rank vegetation. This original condition of the soil naturally gave rise to a localisation of industries, and a very unequal distribution of settlement. Thus the open country was taken up for pastoral purposes; in the forest country the timber industry was developed, and the intermediate land passed into the hands of farmers. Though agriculture is now extending into the pastoral and forest country, and considerable areas of forest-land have been cleared and laid down in grass, the portions of the district characterized by these respective industries are still well defined.

In the northern part of the district, bounded by Cook Strait, numerous deep fiords and bays run far into the land. The principal of these are Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounde, which are remarkable for the number of their reaches and page 48 inlets, and the beauty of their precipitous and forest-clad hills, culminating in Mount Stokes, 3,943 ft. above the sea.

Rivers.

Four considerable rivers, the Wairau, Awatere, Clarence, and Conway, rise towards the western boundary of the district; the two former, running east and north, fall into Cook Strait; the two latter, taking a southerly and easterly course, discharge into the sea on the eastern side of the Island. These rivers water large and fertile valleys, but none can be entered by vessels except the Wairau, which is navigable for small steamers for about ten miles from its mouth.

Plains.

The Wairau Plain, containing about 65,000 acres, on which stands Blenheim, the capital of Marlborough, is the principal block of agricultural land within the district. The soil, generally good, is, on the lower or seaward side of the plain, extremely fertile, especially in the neighbourhood of Tua Marina, Spring Creek, and near Blenheim, which is surrounded by numerous gardens, with rich deep mould, and well sheltered with trees. The average yield of wheat for the plain is about 25 bushels per acre; of oats and barley, 35; of peas, 30; and of potatoes, 10 tons per acre. Hops have been successfully grown for many years in the neighbourhood of the town, but, owing to the high price of labour, their cultivation has not extended. The plain, traversed in all directions by good macadamised roads, and dotted over with numerous comfortable homesteads, standing in clumps of trees amidst well-cultivated fields, has already an old-world appearance. Mors than half the population of the Marlborough Land District—12,677, according to the last census—is centred in the Town of Blenheim and on the Wairau Plain. Besides this plain there are several thousand acres of terrace flats and valleys along the larger rivers, notably at Starborough, on the Lower Awatere, all suitable for closer settlement, and capable of sustaining a large population.

Lakes.

There are not any lakes worthy the name. The largest is Kapara te Hau, more familiarly known as Grassmere, situate on the coast between the Awatere River and Cape Campbell. It is about three miles in diameter, and very shallow, being, indeed, no more than a lagoon, as during a dry season there is little or no water in it.

The only other known lake is Lake McRae, situate in the open country between the Awatere and the Clarence Rivers.

Forests.

The portion of Marlborough north-west of the Wairau River, extending to the boundary of the Nelson Land District, and including the County of Sounds, in all about 280,000 acres, was originally covered with dense forest. In the valleys and on the lower hill-slopes, rimu, kahikatea, matai, totara, miro, and tawa were the principal forest-trees. The higher portion of the hills and steep spurs are clothed with the various species and variety of birch (beech), to which along the shores of the Sounds were added pukatea and kohekohe, the latter locally called cedar.

Since 1860 sawmills have been at work in various parts of the district. Thirty-two mills have been erected, and have worked for longer or shorter periods. Haw-lock, on the Pelorus Sound, is at present the head-quarters of the timber trade.

The hills along the shores of the Sound will, for many years, furnish birch sleepers. There are other timbers left in places, but nowhere sufficient to justify the erection of a mill, unless pukatea wood, hitherto neglected, could be utilised. It is a light, tough timber, well adapted for boat-building and for packing-cases. The quantity of pine timber remaining in the Kaituna and Onamalutu Valleys is small but there is a good supply of birch and other wood, suitable for fencing and fire-wood. On these valleys the Wairau Plain is mainly dependent for timber.

The Pelorus Valley, with its tributaries the Wakamarina, Rai, Ronga, and Opouri Valleys, still contain about 300,000,000 ft. of convertible timbers, exclusive of the birch, of which there is a large amount of the best quality on the hills and terraces. The Wairau, Blenheim, and other districts extending southwards most depend for the future on this source for all their building material.

In the neighbourhood of Kaikoura, along the base of Mount Fyffe, and in the Hapuku Valley, there is another small block of forest-land in which three small sawmills have been erected. The quantity of timber suitable for sawmill purposes in this block is very limited, but it will furnish the neighbouring country with firewood and fencing for many years.

Soils and their Uses.

The Wairau Plain, which is the principal block of agricultural land, has been already dealt with. The second agricultural centre is in the neighbourhood of Kaikoura. The land extending along the base of Mount Fyffe, between the Kohai and Hapuku Rivers, about 13,000 acres in extent, is held in small or moderate-sized forms; the soil is good, the block known as "The Swamp," between Mount Fyffe and the Peninsula, being particularly rich. In the Pelorus, Kaituna, and Onamalutu Valleys, and in the Sounds, settlers following in the wake of the sawmills have already converted much of the land worked over into grazing-farms. The land is of three descriptions—alluvial flats, terraces, and hill-sides. On the flats in the larger valleys the soil is rich, producing heavy crops of oats, peas, beans, and potatoes, wherever it has been brought into cultivation. The terrace-land varies much in quality, but generally grows good grass, as do also the hills on which tawa formerly grew; the birch country being very barren. On the small bush-farms cattle-grazing is the chief pursuit. Out of over 11,400 head kept in Marlborough, 7,000 belong to the forest country.

Grazing.

About 1,680,000 acres of the Marlborough Land District are at present devoted to keeping sheep. The leaseholds in the northern parts of the district contain a large extent of scrub-and fern-covered country, now producing little or no food for sheep, but capable of improvement. The total number of sheep depastured is 827 597, distributed as follows amongst the counties into which the land district is divided: Marlborough County, 518,845; Sounds County, 119,567; Kaikoura County, 189,185. On the natural pasture of the open country merino sheep are kept almost exclusively, the land carrying from half to one sheep per acre. In the forest country, on sown grass, the land keeps from two to four crossbred sheep per acre. Along the shores of the Sounds large areas of hill-land have been taken up on lease, and are now being cleared and laid down in grass expressly for keeping sheep, but generally throughout the forest country the holdings are small or of moderate size, hence this is, after the Wairau Plain, the most populous portion of the district. The export of wool during last year amounted to about 13,000 bales.

Industries.

Gold-mining has been carried on for some years, principally at Mahakipawa, Waknmarina, and Wairau Valley. At present not much gold is being obtained, although there are now strong indications of a great improvement in the gold-mining industry.

There is one dredge at work in the Wakamarina River, giving fair results for the outlay.

There are at present four sawmills at work within the district: one at Kaikoura, and the others in the Pelorus, Kaituna, and Onamalutu Valleys. The principal one is Messrs. Brownlee and Co.'s, in the Pelorus Valley, the annual output being about 3,000 000 superficial feet. The value of the sawn timber shipped in 1896 from the company's wharf was £8,904, and they have recently imported new machinery, which will, when erected, increase the annual output by more than another million feet. The mill at Kaikoura turned out 120,000 ft.

Owing to the low price of dressed flax several of the mills have recently been closed, there being only four or five now at work. The quantity of hemp shipped during the year was 3,000 bales.

In connection with one of the mills, a rope-factory has been established, in which binder-twine made of short, flax or tow is the main product.

There are two flour-mills at work—one at Spring Creek, near Blenheim, owned by Messrs. Redwood Bros. This is a complete roller-mill, driven by water-power, page 50 and can turn out about 14 tons of flour in twenty-four hours. It is electric-lighted, and the sack-working machinery is driven by electric motor. The mill is not worked full time, but during the year the output was 758 tons of flour and 333 tons of bras and sharps. The other mill, which is also worked by water-power, is Messrs W.B. Parker and Co.'s, at Blenheim.

There is a dairy factory at Spring Creek which contains all the latest improvements in machinery; 22 tons of butter was produced in 1895.

There is a first-class cheese-factory at Tua Marina. The output last season was 50 tons, but the factory is capable of turning out 80 tons. There is also a good cheese-factory at Kaikoura, the output of which last season was 60 tons.

A rabbit-preserving factory has lately been reopened at Blenheim.

Climate.

Marlborough possesses one of the finest climates in the world; and at Blenheim it is fine weather nearly all the year round. There is almost a total absence of the boisterous winds that so frequently visit Wellington.

The original distribution of the open and forest lands was entirely due to climatic causes. At Cape Campbell, one of the barest places in the district, the annual rainfall is only 23.25 in.; in the Pelorus Valley, the centre of the forest country, it is over 65 in. This difference between the climates of the northwestern and south-eastern portions of the district explains why the artificial pasture-land, when compared with the natural pasture, supports such a large amount of stock. Winter and spring are the wettest seasons, hence the dry climate is not unfavourable for agriculture. Wherever the soil is suitable, crops sown in winter and harvested in early summer can be successfully grown. Everywhere near the coast the range of temperature, considering the latitude, is very small. The thermometer seldom falls below 30 deg., or rises above 78 deg. Along the shores of the Sounds the mildness of the winter, owing to the curious distribution of land and water, allows lemons, oranges, passion-fruit, figs, and other sub-tropical fruits to be grown in favourable situations. On the lower hills and terraces of the forest country the chestnut (Castanea vulgaris) grows rapidly, and commences to bear fruit in five or six years. A few trees planted in the Pelorus Valley some twenty years ago are not yielding annually about 2 cwt. of nuts a tree. In all parts of the low country the common English fruit-trees—apple, plum, pear, cherry, &c., yield abundantly, the fruit, owing to the clearness of the atmosphere, being of excellent quality. In the high country, where snow falls occasionally during winter, red, white, and black currants can be produced in such quantities that with little labour they might be made an article of export to the warmer parts of Australia.

Towns.

The chief town, Blenheim, is situate on the Wairau Plain, at the junction of the Opawa and Omaka Rivers—a third river, the Taylor, would join at about the same point were it not that when not in flood it disappears beneath the surface, about three miles south of the town. Blenheim has been termed a miniature Christchurch, doubtless from its extreme flatness. Considering this, its streets are not to straight, and wide as they should be. The Government Buildings, which comprise the Post and Telegraph Offices, Lands and Survey Offices, Courts of Justice, fa, form a handsome edifice in the centre of the town, which is well planted with deciduous and evergreen trees. It is about eighteen miles and a half from Picton by rail, and about nine miles from the sea by the Qpawa River, which is navigable for small steamers. Blenheim is lit with gas, and supplied with water, principally by artesian wells. The population at the last census was 3,018.

The next town in importance is Picton, the principal port, only fifty-three miles by sea from Wellington. This little town, both in position and appearance, may be said to be the antithesis of Blenheim, being most picturesquely situated at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound, and nestling among hills, some of the higher ones still densely covered with birch and other forest. There is frequent communication with Wellington and Nelson by steamers averaging 500 tons, and vessels of 1,200 tons can lie at the wharf at low-water, where there is a depth of 25ft. Vessels of the largest page 51 tonnage can approach within half a mile. The direct exportation of frozen meat from Picton commenced in 1892, when 16,433 carcases were shipped; last, year Messrs. Nelson Brothers, who had a freezing-hulk at work, shipped about. 20,000 carcases. This year the business of Nelson Brothers was acquired by the Wairau Freezing Company, which exported from Picton for the six months ended 30th June, 1897, mutton, 2,983 carcases, weight, 165,872 lb.; and lambs, 16,044 carcases, weight, 641,291 lb The company expects to double this output during the ensuing season. Picton possesses a malting establishment also, producing for export, as the excellent quality of the barley grown on the Wairau Plain insures a ready market. A small quantity of oysters, mostly procured in Queen Charlotte Sound, is annually exported from Picton; with culture the supply might be almost indefinitely increased, many of the sheltered bays in both sounds being well adapted for the purpose. What is now being done along the Marlborough coast is a mere trifle compared with what might be accomplished if capital and knowledge were brought to bear on the fishing industry. Around the whole coast, from the mouth of the Conway to near the French Pass, the sea abounds in fish. Within the Sounds and amongst the islands of Cook Strait, hapuku, schnapper, moki, barracouta, raturi, kahawai, and rock-cod are extremely plentiful. Immense shoals of the southern herring (Clupea sagax) and of anchovies (Engranlis encrasicholus) frequent the inlets at certain seasons of the year, and quantities of fresh fish are exported from thence to various places within the colony. As steamers arrive at and leave Picton almost daily, shipments can be made without delay to all parts. Picton possesses a good gravitation water-supply. Its population is about 870.

Havelock, situate at the head of Pelorus Sound, is, as has been already stated, the present head-quarters of the timber trade, Messrs. Brownlee and Co.'s steam sawmill, at the mouth of the Pelorus River, being only a mile or so from the town. Between Picton and Havelock there is a mail service twice a week, viâ Cullensville, on the Mahakipawa Gold-fields. The population of Havelock is about 365.

The Town of Kaikoura, the greater part of which is built on a raised shingle beach, is situate at Kaikoura Peninsula, near the southern boundary of the district. The town, with the adjoining settlement of small farms, forms one of the most picturesque spots in New Zealand, lying as it does under the Seaward Kaikouras, or Looker-on Mountains. At the back of the town the peninsula, which is composed of Cretaceo-tertiary limestone, rises abruptly for about. 100 ft., and affords splendid sites for dwelling-houses. Kaikoura is connected with Blenheim by a weekly coach service, the distance being about ninety-five miles. There is also direct steamer communication with Wellington and Lyttelton. The population of the town is about 395.

Roads and Railways.

The only railway is that between Picton and Blenheim, about eighteen miles and a half in length. The train, starting from Picton, runs twice a day. The railway has been completed for a distance of three miles south of Blenheim, and it is in contemplation to extend it as far as the Awatere River, which is shortly to be bridged with a railway and traffic bridge at a cost of £19,000, which will be a very great boon to the district.

The Main North Road to Nelson, distant seventy-eight miles, is a good metalled road nearly the whole way. It runs up the Wairau Valley from Blenheim for about six miles, crosses the Wairau River into the Kaituna Valley, which it follows as far as Havelock—about twenty-eight miles. It then runs up the Pelorus and Rai Valleys, and ascends by easy gradients to the Brown Saddle, where it crosses the boundary into Nelson. An excellent coach-service—probably the best in the colony—has been established for some years, the coach running to and from Nelson on alternate days, covering the distance in eleven hours, and another bi-weekly coach service has lately been established between Blenheim and Havelock.

The Main South Road, running over the Taylor Pass into the Awatere Valley, and through the Starborough, Flaxbourne, Kekerangu, and other properties, connects Blenheim with Kaikoura and the south, and is a good road during dry weather, although it might be much improved in places.

The portion between the Clarence River—over which a fine bridge was built page 52 some years ago—and the Hapuku River, runs along the coast under steep and picturesque hills covered with forest. Were a road constructed south of Kaikoura to connect with Cheviot it would open up some of the most beautiful coast scenery in New Zealand.

A good road has been formed up the Wairau Valley, passing through the Bank-house, Erina, Lansdowne, Hillersden, and Birch-hill properties and connecting with Tophouse, just outside the boundary, and distant fifty-six miles from Blenheim. At Tophouse there is an hotel and a telegraph-station, and from thence a good road leads to Belgrove, the present terminus of the Nelson Railway.

A coach runs twice a week between Blenheim and Wairau Valley—twenty-five miles—where there is an hotel, a post-and telegraph-office, and one or two stores.

There is also a good cart-road running up the Awatere River—which it crosses and recrosses several times—as far as Molesworth Station, about seventy miles from Blenheim. Between these points there is a weekly coach-and mail-service.

There are other minor roads and bridle-tracks throughout the district too numerous to specify.

The area of Crown lands at present available for settlement is about 200,000 acres, but of this area 135,000 acres are of very poor quality, being chiefly the summits of high, rugged country. The balance of available area lies principally in the Pelorus, Rai, and Wakamarina Valleys, and in the Sounds, and will doubtless be readily taken up when thrown open for selection.