Survey of the Southern Districts of the Province of Otago.

January, 1857.—We started from Dunedin on Tuesday the 6th of January, 1857, and arrived at Invercargill on Sunday the 11th of the same month. What with the difficulty in obtaining men and detention from bad weather, it was the 15th before we could make a commencement on the actual operations of the survey. On this day, accompanied by Drummond and Lindsay, I crossed the bar of the little creek that winds its course through the centre of the new town of Invercargill.

The boat which I had hired proved leaky and ill formed, so though the wind was strong and favourable we had not set sail above a minute before the mast fell overboard, carrying away the thwart and step. Having repaired damages we proceeded with better fortune, sailing down the broad estuary of the Waiopai, and entering the narrow and intricate channel of the New River.

This river we ascended 7 or 8 miles, camping near Printz's at dusk. To the right of the New River is a sandy tract exposed to the fury of the westerly winds; to the left, on the contrary, is a fertile and woody district.

The New River finds its way into the sea near the Omawi or Steep Head, after meandering for many miles in the proximity of the sea-shore. The intervening sandhills evidently bank in the river from the ocean, and allow of no egress until the projecting land of Omawi Head is reached. Here a narrow but deep channel leads the water of the New River into the sea. This is facilitated by the protection afforded under the lee of the iron-bound promontory above mentioned.

On the 16th we were astir at ½ past 4 A.M., reaching the Tomo-boraken Creek at 8 A.M., where we breakfasted. The pull up the New River disclosed scenery much akin to what is viewed with admiration in the rivers of the tropics, regions exuberant of vegetation. Clumps of forest and grassy plains alternate. Where the forest holds sway the black and white pines are to be seen stretching out their ample arms, and the manuka, now in full bloom, forms a lively contrast to the sombre olive tints of the foliage of these and other native woods, while the native weeping willow contributes the charm of elegance by drooping its beautiful festoons towards the calm and mirror-like waters.

The forests here abound in singing birds; these, during the hours of early morning, by their songs, did not in a small measure contribute to the enjoyment of the scene. As we sped along flocks of aquatic birds were passed, which having yet scarcely page 2 made the acquaintance of man, were undisturbed by our near approach.

During the time we were discussing our breakfast under the shade of the forest a small bird about the size of the red robin of England, though not of his colour, came hopping about our fire, and approaching so close to us that we might almost have handled him. His colour on the breast was gray, on the wings and back it was black, his eye was jet. From his similarity of disposition to the robin of England he obtains that name here from the Colonist.

As his motions were watched with some interest, his company was not unwelcome during breakfast. While he hopped about picking up the stray crumbs, one of our party happened to whistle. This riveted his attention for a while, but he would soon unconcernedly hop about till another note was whistled, when again he would immediately fix his lustrous eye on the attractor. This was done several times, proving how great an influence such music had over him.

After breakfast we started with packs on our backs, passing through forests of pine, totara, manuka, and other native woods. On penetrating into the forest reminiscences of similar scenery traversed on similar duties in the tropical East returned forcibly to the memory. Though these forests are not so high as the forests of the tropics, yet they are equally compact, abounding in vines, creepers, orchideous plants, and ferns. The cabbage tree that here grows on the skirts of forests very much resembles the pandan, so often met with in analogous positions in the East Indies. We passed through two miles of forest before we emerged into the grassy plains. These plains, now unoccupied, may ere long yield abundant harvests to the industrious husbandman.

By noon we arrived at the cattle station of Mr. Macfarlane, and were welcomed in no moderate terms by his stockman, who informed us that he had had only the company of cows for these last three weeks, and possessing the gregarious instinct of mankind, he wearied much to hold converse with his species again. He employed himself during the afternoon in driving in some cows that he might regale us with new milk, and I was not sorry that this gave me for the first time an opportunity of viewing the evolutions of the stockman on horseback, and the wielding and the cracking of the huge stock whip. In the home country the cracking of whips is the amusement of children, but here it is an accomplishment of some importance. A whole herd of horned monsters tremble at the rifle-like sound of the stock-whip, and they fly pell-mell from its influence when driven in to be branded, or for slaughter. Our entertainer was skilful in the use of his instrument of authority. It deserves notice. The handle does not page 3 exceed 18 inches in length, but the lash extends to 15 or even 20 feet. In the hands of a tyro the instrument is of little avail, but the thundering sounds emitted from it by our stockman as he grasped the handle, in either hand alternately, proved how formidable a weapon it was in the hands of the initiated.

On the morning of the 17th I proceeded to Forest Hill, reaching it by noon, taking observations at intervals with the theodolite to fix the topographical features. The country passed through was generally covered with good grass, with this disadvantage, of being much intersected by swamps. The scenery for a country yet in the state of nature was as beautiful as could be desired, the combination of wood and savannah, hill and dale, contributed greatly to this end. We returned to the station by 6 P.M., pretty-well fatigued by the roughness of the country. Swamps, which here abound, are the most tiresome of travel, and the unburnt tussack grass covering the plains brings one up at every step. To the east of Forest Hill the Makerewa River comes out of the hill district of the Hokanui, winding through spacious and grassy valleys. On our route to-day we crossed near to a herd of cattle, wild, owing to their being seldom visited by their owner. They gathered together in battle array, facing towards us, having a large bull in their van looking as angry as need be. He made a few issues forward, but dissipated our respect for him by turning tail and retreating ignominiously among the foremost of his charge.

Pine and ironwood were observed to be plentiful in the woods of Forest Hill, the former tall and straight, well adapted for spars.

On the morning of the 18th we were awoke by the violent barking of the stockman's dog. The occasion of this was found to be the presence of the tui, or parson bird. This feathered individual was seen perched on a tree close by, uttering subdued notes, interluded by harsh and suppressed screams. To this soliloquy the dog was enunciating his violent objections, but our parson bird being beyond reach held on his discourse with much nonchalance. Altogether this bird is a most remarkable one: clothed in feathers of deep black from head to foot, he wears a most grave and sacerdotal aspect. This is not all: he bears out closer the clerical resemblance by the possession of two pure white feathers under his chin, and the parody is complete when he commences to utter his guttural yet energetic notes. Sitting on the branch of a tree as a pro tempore pulpit, he wags his paw and shakes his head, bending to one side and then to another, as if he remarked to this one and to that one; and once and again with pent up vehemence, contracting his muscles and drawing himself together, his voice waxes loud in a manner to wake sleepers to their senses.

Last night being calm we were much troubled with mosquitoes of the grey type, and to-day myriads of blow-flies collected on every thing greasy. On looking at my blankets, which I had incautiously left exposed, I found to my disgust clusters of their larvæ upon them.

I may here add that this was the only occasion on which we were troubled with mosquitoes during our sojourn in the southern districts, and the nuisance of the blow-fly is easily guarded against by wrapping the articles they are given to blow upon in calico.

From Macfarlane Station we proceeded to the Oreti Settlement, at which we arrived in the morning of the 19th, after a hard pull against the current and rapids. After breakfasting on eel and biscuit, accompanied by Drummond, I started for the Spar Bush, distant about 9 miles. I carried theodolite and bedding, he tent and provisions. We kept along the edge of the terrace, passing over a fine grassy country, but near the rivers Oreti and Waimatook, subject to be overflowed. The Spar Bush contains fine timber, but at too great a distance from water carriage to be available.

Our beef having got spoiled by the blow-flies, we carried four eels with us as a relish to our biscuit, requesting Lindsay to fish for more.

They were caught by a very simple method. A bit of salt beef was tied to a rude string made of stripes of flax leaves knotted together. After sundown this was thrown into the creek. The eels take bold of the beef and hold on till they are hauled ashore. This, it will be remarked, is a most primitive mode of obtaining a dinner of eel, but there is an improved mode, viz. by the eel-pot. This consists of a tube made of wicker work or bark, having a funnel-shaped mouth. In the interior is placed a bait of grilled flesh, worms, or even eels. As the funnel has its small orifice towards the interior, the eel easily obtains admittance, but he seeks to get out at all places but the right one. The eel pot is the invention of the Moaris, and they depend on it greatly for subsistence.

At the junction of the Oreti and Makerewa, Captain Stokes suggested the placing of a town, ^* apparently being unaware that here the land for miles is at times covered several feet by floods. The settlers in the neighbourhood found out this to their loss, having had much of their property washed away; an experience the proofs of which could not have come under Captain Stokes's notice, owing to the unoccupied state of the country at the time of his visit. As the selection of the site for the capital of this part of New Zealand devolved on me, I may take this opportunity of

^* See 'Geo. Journal,' vol. xxi. p. 25.

page 5 stating that I decided, after being in possession of the requisite local knowledge not possible to be obtained by the above officer. An acquaintance with the interior, its topographical features and communications, as well as the completion of a careful survey of the rivers from their embouchures to the heads of their navigation, all combined to point out the head of the Waiopai navigation to be the position for the capital (now called Invercargill). At Invercargill the interior traffic can centre—to here the sea-borne traffic can be brought: it is consequently here that the interchange of merchandise must take place, and people congregate for that purpose. The site on the New River junction, besides being subject to floods, neither commands practicable outlets into the country, nor water communication with the sea for vessels drawing above 5 feet.

On the 20th we started at 7 A.M., after breakfasting on biscuit and eel, and proceeded to the north end of the Spar Bush. The terrace land here bends suddenly to the westward, and a large plain of low land lies between this and the Taringtura Downs. Having broken my theodolite case, I was at some loss how to mend it, till Drummond suggested the gum of the flax. This plant being nowhere far distant was soon procured, and the requisite quantity of gum taken, which answered admirably. Flax and fern seem to have administered to the New Zealanders in their primitive state in the same measure as the cocoanut does to the natives of the islands and attals of Polynesia. Flax afforded their clothing, bedding, and fibrous material; fern afforded food.

On the afternoon of the 21st we arrived at the Bluff, after a rough passage down the New River against a heavy gale of wind. At Campbell Town, now laid out on the Bluff Peninsula, we found the people out of provisions, so no one would take us into their houses. As a last resource we got permission to sleep in the half-finished jail, and having procured with some difficulty a few pounds of wheat, we bruised it and supped. The principal object of my visit to Campbell Town was to obtain observations of the latitude, intending the Bluff summit as the southern station of the basis of the survey, the northern station being intended to be on some prominent object in the interior. On the 22nd the latitude of the Custom-house was found to be 46° 35′ 58″ 8 s., this being the mean of 18 circummeridional altitudes taken with an excellent sextant of Troughton; on the 23rd 16 observations gave the latitude to be 46° 35′ 53″.8: consequently the mean latitude of the Custom-house would be 46° 35′ 56″.3. The weather being hot, the sand-flies were rife, attacking every part of the skin exposed, and rendering the obtaining of a long series of observations a painful and teasing operation.

The bluff promontory on which Campbell Town now stands is called Awarua by the natives. The harbour of the Bluff, for- page 6 merly much frequented as a whaling station, is protected to the westward by this promontory, and to the eastward a low tongue of shingle assists to nearly land-lock the anchorage. Being thus well enclosed on all sides, the Bluff harbour will be admitted to be one of the best in New Zealand, when it is stated that it has easy access, and no bar. Campbell Town, situated on such a harbour, will, doubtless, ultimately be of some importance, but at present there are only five buildings within its precincts, viz., a custom-house, jail, collector's house, and two cottages.

The promontory of the Bluff is well wooded, in parts otherwise it is covered with an inferior grass, intermixed with fern and flax. Amongst the woods were observed the bright crimson tint given to the foliage by the flowering of the iron-wood tree. To the eastward of the Bluff harbour the land is low, and generally swampy.

From Campbell Town we returned to Invercargill, where I engaged a pack-horse at 3l. a week to accompany us into the interior with provisions. We proceeded in the further prosecution of the survey on the 29th, camping at the half-way bush at night; this is about 15 miles from the town. The country about here has generally inferior pasturage, but it is admirably interspersed with clumps of forest, and well adapted for agricultural settlement. The face of the country is slightly undulating, having a general rise to the Hokanui Hills, a picturesque group bounding the plains to the northward.

To-day I noticed on my path a Moari oven, and this may be taken as an opportunity of noticing these relics of bygone times. These ovens are seldom constructed by the Moaris of this part of New Zealand in these present times, they finding the metal-pot and kettle more convenient. The oven consists of a round hole page 7 dug in the ground about 4 or 5 feet in diameter, and of the same depth. Around the edges pebbles and stones are arranged. Their system of cooking in these ovens was the same as that so universal in Polynesia, and so often described by voyagers, so needs no remarks at my hands. But as monuments of the past these ovens form an interesting subject of discussion. They are met with in all parts of the plains in this district of New Zealand, and in places now long denuded of the forest. The ovens in best preservation are found near the edges of the bush, the more dilapidated are distant. It may be safely surmised that the proximity of bush would be chosen for the easy procuring of fuel, and the relative preservation of the ovens would also lead to this conclusion. The existence of ovens would therefore indicate the spot where forest had been, and when found far from this would tend to prove its gradual retrogression and diminution on the face of the country. Indeed the gradual extirpation of the forest may be noticed on that existing, and the process is a simple and natural one.

The edges of the forest are choked with dry scrub grasses and ferns, which, on being set fire to, burn vigorously, destroying to various depths a fringe of the adjacent trees. Grass takes the place of the burnt scrub, and scrub takes the place of the burnt forest: thus the forest is diminished at each burning of the fringing scrub, grasses, and fern. The native grasses grow up sufficiently dense to burn vigorously once in three years: thus, where man existed, it is not an improbable hypothesis that fires would rage over the country, whether propagated by accident or design, at intervals not much greater than every three years.

If it be admitted that the Moari ovens were always placed near bush, they then stand as proofs of the former wooded state of the country, they being so universally distributed over it; and the rate at which the forest diminishes at each burning might, with the other data above alluded to, lead to a rude calculation as to the date of the construction of the ovens by simply measuring their distances from the adjacent woods, consequently the period of their use by the aborigines. Presuming on the supposition that these ovens were always in use by the aborigines, we might then have some grounds for speculation on the comparative age of their occupation of these districts. It is true that speculations founded on such rude data would involve the adoption of too wide a margin for founding satisfactory conclusions thereon, yet with all these deficiencies a date might be suggested, and I believe that it would be a recent one, the first coming of the Moari.

While engaged on this subject it must not be lost sight of, that, though the forest is generally observed to diminish pretty regularly, this is not always the case; for it diminishes more rapidly on one soil than on another, and I have even seen proofs of thousands of acres having been destroyed at one conflagration. page 8 I have also often remarked that when ovens are seen 10 to 20 miles away from forest, investigation has shown that a clump of wood had at a recent date existed in their vicinity, the only remnants of which would be in a scorched log or two prostrate on the ground.

The remnants of these ovens may be truly said to be the only monuments of the past that we owe to the aborigines; Nature has left another class of monuments on the face of the plains; these consist of numerous mounds of earth covered with pebbles. These mounds seldom exceed 2 or 3 feet in height, and invariably have a hollow on one side a foot or 18 inches in depth. These are indeed pigmy structures when compared with the stupendous works of man in the Old World, but, small as they are, they form too prominent a feature in a country yet in the state of nature not to attract the attention of the traveller, so their local interest is not despicable.

These mounds—and they are very numerous—were an enigma to me for some time till I had viewed all parts of the country, after which a simple solution presented itself as to their origin. They are undoubtedly formed by the falling of trees of the forest, whose roots, on turning up, raise the attached earth with them. When the tree decays, the earth falls down in a heap bordering the hollow out of which the heap was raised: thus we have the mound and the hollow. On the mounds will invariably be seen such stones and pebbles as had been raised with the soil, and they, for the most part, remain on the top, owing to the washing away of the more transportable sand and earth during rains with which they are mixed. The plains in the vicinity of the Hokanuis, and many other parts of the province, abound in rounded quartz pebbles, deposited close to the surface; where this obtains, the tops of the mounds will be seen covered with these, presenting too remarkable a feature in the primeval scenery not to draw forth the surmises of the observer. But these mounds are not all covered with quartz pebbles: thus on the Oreti and Aparima plains, where no quartz exists, the mounds are seen to be covered by pebbles, the débris of other rocks.

I have observed these mounds in all shapes of construction, equally attached to the roots of the newly fallen tree, to the half decayed, and to the nearly obliterated one. On all these mounds would be seen the stones and pebbles pertaining to the formation of the district. Thus we account for the prominent collections of pebbles on the mounds, and this leads us to the feature that has attracted even more attention, viz., the numerous collections of white pebbles which are found in certain districts. The fact of being white has no doubt attracted attention to the heaps which would have passed unobserved had they been coloured: nevertheless the latter are as numerous as the former in their proper dis- page 9 tricts. Thus, as I remarked before in the Oreti and Aparima plains, where no quartz is to be discovered on the mounds, little collections of more sombre coloured pebbles are seen occupying their place. But even where quartz pebbles abound, it is frequently observed that coloured ones are intermingled.

The collections of white pebbles, varying as they do from a wheelbarrow to a handful, have been suggested, by a facetious and clever savant in the neighbouring province, to be relics of the crop of the moa; others with greater appearance of probability have suggested that these heaps had been collected by the Moaris to heat, for the purpose of cooking small birds: without bringing either birds or men to our aid, natural causes may be suggested as to the origin of them, viz. the action of the atmosphere on many of the detached pieces of quartz so abundantly scattered over the surface. Sudden alternations from frost to heat would tend to split them up, and time would round the fragments; or the gusts in storms, which, expending their fury on the mounds, already mentioned as being covered with pebbles, taking up and carrying off in eddies little collections from the many exposed, and depositing them in the scattered collections as we find them.

The above subject of pebble collections may appear puerile to many who have not traversed a country yet in the state of nature; it will not readily come home to them that these little but numerous objects appear to the traveller in the garb of importance. I have often heard the subject discussed with warmth and energy by the colonists at their social meetings, and consequently in devoting a few sentences to the subject, I believe I need scarcely offer an apology.

February, 1857.—Up to the 1st of February I was employed traversing the Waiopai plains. I found that the Makerewa River collected all its waters from the Hokanui hills. These hills have a most picturesque appearance, being much broken and variegated by rocky and bare tops, wooded slopes, and grassy valleys. The ample and well watered glades, now desolate, invite the occupation of man. On many parts of the plain I observed prostrate trees, proving a very recent occupation by the forest. The hills were covered with quartz pebbles; some schistose rock was also observed, uncommonly like petrified wood.

The 1st and 2nd found us at the Otaramika bushes: here the scrub caught fire near our tent, and we saved our property with the greatest difficulty. A wood hen was shot: it is a bird between the size of a partridge and a pheasant, and with plumage like the latter. Its wings are too small to enable it to fly, but it is supported on stout legs, by which it progresses very rapidly on the ground. Its wings are armed with horny spurs, which it uses in attack and defence. It frequents the brushwood surrounding the forest, and threads the mazes with the greatest facility.

On the 3rd we proceeded to Mr. Devellin's station, situated on the Mataura plains. The grasses on these plains are superior, but much overrun with spear grass, an indication of good soil. The plains above each terrace have a magnificent expanse; and well might their pasturage have excited the cupidity of the sheep stealer, Mackenzie, who selected these plains for depasturing the sheep he attempted to carry off from Canterbury province. Remnants of his hut are still to be seen in Mr. Devellin's bush, together with a small crop of potatoes. These had been prepared for his expected arrival through the lake district, by a track not yet traversed by the white man.

From the 5th to the 8th stormy weather detained us at Mr. Devellin's station. Drummond, in searching about the hut of Mackenzie, found in its proximity a saw, 2 reaping hooks, an adze, marked J. C., an American axe, and a trace chain. After Mackenzie's apprehension, the Moaris of Tuturau are said to have removed many of the articles, principally consisting of cooking utensils. When Mr. Devellin first visited the place, he saw pannikins, plates, &c., sufficient for 4 men. It is evident from this that Mackenzie must have had sharers in his enterprise.

On the 9th we started at 8 A.M., and kept along the edges of the high terrace until we reached the Waimumu, a stream coming out of the Hokanuis, and falling into the Mataura, 2 miles above Tuturau. This stream we reached by 3 P.M., when we rested an hour. North of the Waimumu the high terrace breaks into numerous long valleys, so as no longer to bear the character of a terrace, and the watershed is close to the Waimumu. We arrived at Mr. MacNab's shearing hut at 7 P.M., and camped for the night. This has been a fine sunshiny day, and the country passed has generally borne good grass, though rather coarse. The scenery is magnificent; the broad plains and terraces stretching away to the south, and the bold configuration of the Hokanuis to the north. The Ship Cone, which here has a pyramidal form, from its base to its peak, in height not less than 2000 feet, forms a grand and impressive object in the panorama. The Hokanui Hills are timbered half way up their southern sides.

The Mataura flows close under the eastern range of hills, which are merely a continuation of the Hokanuis, though here the junction is broken. These eastern ranges continue in almost a straight line to the nuggets on the eastern coast, near the mouth of the river Clutha.

Before leaving this part of the country, a few remarks may be entered upon regarding that remarkable feature, the plains and terraces of the Mataura. The terraces are three in number: one next to the river; a middle one, having a rise of about 50 feet: and a third, having another rise, varying from 70 to 200 feet page 11 The plains which they enclose extend 24 miles in length, and 6 miles in breadth. Similar plains and terraces are observed on many of the southern rivers, more particularly the Waiau, where they even take the appearance of grandeur. Terraces are also observed farther up the Mataura, nearly at its sources in the Eyre mountains. The mode of action that produced these remarkable features can only be surmised in our present confined knowledge of geological formation. Two theories may be suggested: 1st, the deteriorating effects of the waters of the river, which in ages would alter its course from side to side, and carry away the soil from the containing banks, thus forming the sudden and steep edges of the terraces; and 2nd, the unequal settlement of the Waiopai and Mataura plains, which, at one time, might have been on one level. Had the valley of the Mataura been an arm of the sea, the wearing away of the terrace edges might have been easily accounted for; but the absence of shells and other marine productions would prove that no action had taken place by this means, and to the action of the waters of the river I am inclined to ascribe little power in effecting the enormous escarpment of so great an extent of country. The second mode suggested appears to me to bear the greater appearance of feasibility, but, as hinted before, it would be improper to assume the correctness of the same; were it so, the terrace edges I would take to be the line of fault, and the extent of dislocation of strata would here be found to be equal to the rise of the terrace.

Situated 2 miles above Tuturau are the falls of the Mataura. Here the river falls over a bed of limestone about 20 feet high, presenting, when the river is flooded, a spectacle of considerable grandeur. The river has cut its way through the bed of limestone for upwards of a mile, and had history afforded us such proofs of deterioration in the rock as Lyell has collected regarding that over which Niagara falls, we would have had data for calculating the time taken in cutting the rock so far. Now would be the time to place such marks as would be a guide to future observers.

Near the falls are beds of coal or lignite, accompanied by beds of shale, containing fossil ferns in abundance.

Judging from the sections brought to light by the steep banks of the Mataura and Makerewa, as well as a few land slips on the Waiopai plains, these plains may be noted to be of aqueous formation. The strata abound near the surface with beds of rounded quartz pebbles and shingle of other descriptions of rock, while underneath are shales and blue clay. The plains have a moderate rise towards the Hokanui Hills, which bound them to the north, and here the formation alters. While the strata on the plains are generally level or slightly inclined, the strata here are much disturbed and tilted. On the ridges of the higher hills they generally are nearly perpendicular—having a north-west and south- page 12 east strike. I did not observe here any of the true igneous or plutonic rock. The most prominent rocks were altered by the action of heat or galvanic currents, taking the appearance of trap, trap-tuff, and chert. Breccias, shales, and softer strata are found in the less prominent ridges. Quartz shingle was everywhere abundant on the surface of the plains to the south of the Hokanuis.

The 12th found us on the Waimea Plains, with a morning of drizzling rain and mist. We started notwithstanding, and kept on till 2 P.M., when we camped on the banks of the Mataura, near the gorge of the mountains. It cleared up at 5 P.M. and turned out a beautiful evening. The country passed over bears superior grass, but is much overrun with scrub. We are now under the foot of the Snow Mountains, and the scenery is impressive, with the rugged, barren, and steep heights, casting their sombre shadows over the plain. The Mataura here is a beautiful pebbly stream, pure as crystal. The valleys of the mountains have generally accessible timber. We shot several ducks, and had a feast, for we had been living on bread and tea alone for several days.

On the 13th we were at Mr. MacKellar's station, where there are the remnants of a Moari settlement, called Tomogalak. Moa bones are found here in abundance, some measuring 2 inches in diemeter. It is supposed that these bones are collections thrown away by the Moaris after the bird had been eaten. Many of the bones do not appear above 30 years old; indeed I was informed by an old native at Jacob River that he and his tribe feasted on the moa in his younger years.

The 14th found us camped on the banks of the Oreti, near the Elbow. The country here bears fine grass, but much overrun with a scrub called Tomataguru by the natives, or Wild Irishman by the colonists. It is full of prickles and is difficult to penetrate. The formation is chert with gritty shales.

As we have gradually lost plates, knives, and forks, we are now existing in the manner of savages, boiling our flesh or fowl in our tea-can (called a billy), kneading our dough in waterproof cloaks, and baking our bread in the embers of our campfire. Our table is the grass, and our plates a few leaves, our seats a stone or log of wood. Our beds are of course on the ground, softened with a few bunches of fern or grass, covered with oiled calico to keep off the damp. Our principal subsistence has been "damper" (species of bread) and tea. The want of flesh brings the greater zest when we can get it. Wet as we often are all day, and bedded as we often are on the damp ground all night, we have thriven amazingly. The best of all blessings, good health, has attended us. There is something exhilarating in daily coining on new country, and in descrying new objects of interest. We are page 13 now beyond the range of the white man, and the country is utterly desolate of inhabitants, the aborigines having long ago given up their traffic with the interior. The country is now becoming more interesting, as we are in the midst of high and picturesque mountains having level and fertile plains, and valleys at their feet. There is also a great extent of forest to the north, on the slopes of the Eyre Mountains. A valley leads north, low and easy to look at; will this lead into the interior?

On the 15th we proceeded to the foot of the Dome mountain, and camped at the spot eligible for astronomical observations. A new plant appeared here, allied to the cactus, and colonially termed a "Spaniard." It has stout blades with sharp points—no agreeable objects to encounter. The country here is much overrun with these and "wild Irishmen;" so much so that it was a matter of some difficulty to drag our horses through them, for the poor animals, in swerving from the talons of the "wild Irishmen "were apt to be received on the more deadly weapons of the "Spaniards."

On the 16th I started at 7 A.M., with Lindsay, for the tops of the Dome and Cupola, reaching the summit of the latter by 10 A.M., and of the former by noon. The Dome is 4505 feet above the level of the sea, and the Cupola 4045 feet. They command a most extensive prospect from the eastern to the southwestern coasts, and over the plains intervening. Water froze on each summit while we were taking the observations, although the day in the plains was a warm one. Near the summit the vegetation consisted of snow grass, mosses, and a species of heather. Half-way up the mountains some pretty flowers were gathered, amongst which the mountain daisy deserves notice for its elegance and simplicity of form, and beauty of colour. A ground berry, called the New Zealand strawberry by the colonists, formed an agreeable but rather insipid repast to our parched lips. It tastes much like the rose apple of India. While on the Dome, Lindsay employed himself in scratching our names and immortalizing them under a cairn which he built during the time I was busy with the theodolite.

The formation of these mountains I would term metamorphic, consisting as they do of cherts, and allied compact rocks, hardened by the action of heat The plains beneath are aqueous, consisting of the transported débris of the interior, and adjacent mountains. To the N.N.E. an opening appeared through which no high land was visible: I conjectured this then to be the pass into the Central districts, at present entirely unknown to the European, and but vaguely described by the Moari.

The heads of the Mataura were seen to come out of the Eyre mountains, winding between the Dome and East Dome through a deep gorge, by which it issues on the Waimea plains.

The panorama of the Dome mountain is truly grand, presenting to view as it does the snow-clad and serrated outline of the Eyre mountains, the extensive plains of Waiopai, Mataura, Waiau, Clutha, and Waimea; also Molyneux Bay, Tewaiwais Bay, Solander Island, and the boundless Southern Ocean. We got back to camp by 5 P.M. pretty well tired with our day's exertions.

We remained at our camp in Observation Bush till noon of the 18th, having during the interval ascertained the latitude by circummeridional observations of the sun.

The uncertain state of the weather prevented more observations being taken.

From Observation Bush we struck for the north end of Taringtura Downs, crossing the Oreti River. To the left we observed thousands of acres of dead forest apparently destroyed at one burning. Dusk found us entangled in a swamp, with both our horses bogged. By unloading we made shift to extricate them, and we camped on the edge after dark during a heavy gale of wind. Here the country being destitute of wood we could obtain no tent poles, so as a substitute we used the gun and theodolite stand, and thus managed partially to exclude wind and rain. The whole of the Oreti valley consisted of recent deposit of shingle, and the grass is soft and good.

We were astir early on the morning of the 19th, holding along the east banks of the Aparima: when we came to the gorge we struck down to the bed of the river to avoid the rough and hilly country on the east, and we camped at 6 P.M. on the west side. The pasturage of the country is superior. The formation of the hills as far as could be examined was metamorphic, the strata being perpendicular, and strike N.W. and S.E. The bed of the Aparima showed the débris of plutonic rocks, such as porphyry, greenstone, granite, and amygdaloids. This fact would indicate that the Takitimo mountains, out of which the Aparima flows, are formed of these. Near our camp the impression of a bivalve was found in a stone of compact texture, but I could not find any rocks in the vicinity of the same nature. We washed the sands of the river and examined the "pockets" of the rocks for gold, but found none. The formations do not indicate its existence in this valley.

Our provisions being nearly expended we were astir at 4 A.M. of the 20th, and held down the bed of the Aparima, crossing and recrossing 100 times, till at length at 6 P.M. we arrived at the Yellow Bluff, where we camped for the night. The grasses on page 15 either side of the river were rank, but of excellent quality for grazing. The plains are alluvial and shingly. The river when flooded seems to spread over a considerable distance from its banks. As we have descended from the interior, the Aneroid barometer which I carried has notably marked the change of atmospheric pressure. There is fully one inch difference between Mackellar Station and the sea level.

With our long travel over shingle, our horses are knocked up, and Drummond is in boots without soles, and all our trousers are torn to rags. Lindsay shot a duck, which was a great relish to our sugarless tea. The formation at the Yellow Bluff consists of strata of rolled pebbles of granite, porphyry, chert, &c.

On the 21st we proceeded to Howell's Home Station, keeping along the edge of the terrace. The grasses here are generally inferior excepting to the eastward of Near Bush, where limestone containing fossil shells crops out. The 22nd found us at Jacob River Settlement, where we remained till the 26th, preparing for another month's travel into the interior by laying in provisions, purchasing clothes, shoes, &c.

Jacob River Settlement (so named from a Moari called Jacob, who resided on a patch of cultivation now called Jacob Garden, situated two miles from the mouth of the river) deserves some: notice. It formed one of the many whaling stations that formerly studded the coast of New Zealand, and is now the only place (as far as I am aware) in New Zealand whose inhabitants yet continue the occupation. About 20 to 30 years ago, at which time whaling was carried on with great success, the merchants of Sydney and Hobart Town sent their vessels to these coasts during the season that the whale was known to frequent them. Owing to the savage and warlike propensities of the Moaris of that period, the whales did not much trust themselves amongst the native settlements, but sought such positions as were not easily accessible, to guard against surprise.

Codfish Island, situated to the west of Stewart Island, being girt by steep rocks constantly washed by the heavy roll of the stormy Southern Ocean, and having only a small boat-landing, was early chosen as a favourable site both for the operations of whaling and sealing, which latter also formed a profitable branch of industry, as well as for security against the treachery of the savage tribes then inhabiting Centre Island and Ruabuki. The natives of this part of New Zealand were formerly comparatively numerous, exceeding 3000 to 4000. Numerous and savage as they were, they were yet kept in awe of the more powerful tribes to the northward, who occasionally made raids on them, killing and devouring or making slaves of all who fell into their hands. It was in consequence of these warlike excursions that the natives of this part page 16 of New Zealand inhabited the islands above mentioned under the same motives as actuated their European visitors, and the mainland was only occasionally stealthily visited by them in the pursuit of the wood-hen, quail, eels, and other animal food.

The Europeans of Codfish Island numbered over 100 souls, and as, on the arrival of their ships, they held stores of the much-coveted articles, tobacco and rum, they possessed the means of securing the neighbouring chiefs and tribes to their interests. The consequence was that their intercourse became as intimate as the Europeans desired; and considering the fact, that even the chiefs of those days held it an honour to sacrifice the charms of their daughters to the white man, it will be correctly surmised that a mixed race grew up as years rolled on.

As the intercourse of the white man and the Moari became more intimate, so did their knowledge of and confidence in each other increase. This led to mutual support against the fear of other tribes which led to bolder views and more extended operations on the coasts. Thus it was not long ere the solitary strong, hold of Codfish Island became of very secondary importance to the many other settlements formed along the coasts, such as at the Bluff, New River, Wai Kawa, Jantuck, Jacob River, &c., all of which, during the first and last days of whaling enterprise, became stations, and were continued as such till the fish was nearly extirpated in these waters.

From these stirring times of whaling, so often conned over by the "old hand" as be smokes his pipe at the door of his hut, the native race has declined rapidly in numbers. One cause of decline is said to have been the measles which broke out amongst them some years ago, and swept away two-thirds of them in a short time. To this visitation and other imported diseases may be attributed much of the decline of the native race. Lung diseases are also fatal to great numbers of them.

The natives of the present day are so much reduced in number that they do not exceed 400. The principal remnant reside at Ruabuki Island, Centre Island being now deserted. On Ruabuki Island an enterprising and devoted missionary resides, who leaves all the world to follow in this lonely spot his sacred calling. A few dozen natives are scattered about the coast settlements, such as at Jacob River, New River, and the Mataura. There are a few also residing on Stewart Island.

The busy days of whaling did not last many years. The fish was nearly exterminated, and the residue, from being disturbed, deserted the coast, so where dozens at one time could be seen in a bay none made their appearance. Such Europeans as had not contracted ties binding them to the soil left for other scenes; such as had ties contented themselves with eking out page 17 a dull existence, subsisting by the labours of their Moari helpmates, who cultivated corn and potatoes for their white lord and master. The occasional call of an American or Australian whaler would furnish clothes, tobacco, and rum, in exchange for potatoes and fresh pork, of which there was always superabundance in these settlements.

Excepting at Jacob River such was the condition of the Europeans and their settlements till within these last two years, when the purchase of the country from the Aborigines opened it to colonization. From hence a new era of activity commences, but on this we will not now enter, but return to Jacob River. This settlement is much indebted to Mr. Howell for its present prosperity, for notwithstanding the failure of the principal means of occupation of the inhabitants in sealing and whaling, he remained by his adopted country, fostering by his energy and enterprise such branches of industry as were available either by land or by sea. While he annually fitted out whaling expeditions to the West Coast, he, at the same time, introduced stock to the country from Australia. On my late visits to Jacob River, more proofs of comfort and plenty were to be noticed than in any other part, of the province out of Dunedin, the capital. The inhabitants, both Native and European, possess abundant supplies of wheat and potatoes grown by themselves. The meaner sort have plenty of pork in their enclosures, and fish for the trouble of catching them, while the wealthier possess large herds of cattle, and flocks of sheep feeding on the extensive pastures surrounding the village.

While possessing a climate greatly more genial and temperate than the Shetlands, if we may judge by the historical novels of Sir Walter Scott, we cannot but pursue a parallel between the olden times of those North British Isles and the present of Jacob River. The pursuits of the inhabitants appear to have been similar and their social condition identical. Thus the Shetlands, before the age of steam, were relatively as far from the capital of the kingdom as South New Zealand may be reckoned now. Placed in so remote a position, the inhabitants of the latter were left much to their own resources: thus they made shift to manufacture soap, to tan leather, and distil spirits, all from native productions. But if the vessels return successful from their whaling expeditions, they bring with them some of the luxuries and rarities of civilization, amongst which, sugar, tea, rum, and musical boxes are the most appreciated. Occasionally an American whaler will, here, lite the Dutch yawl of yore in Shetland, lie to off port, making quick traffic in things contraband and uncontraband, in exchange for potatoes and fresh meat.

So much are the inhabitants attached to free trade, that on an exciseman being seen in the village, all the houses were shut, page 18 locked, and barred. This happened for the first time during my visit, so I was a witness to the desolation of the streets or rather paths on the occasion. Lonely as these settlements in South New Zealand are, news flies rapidly from one to the other. It is soon known that the Otaga has run into New River, and discharged her cattle, and, probably, more prized articles; that an American whaler is lying in Paterson Inlet with good tobacco at cheap rates; that the Eliza has taken three whales and lost one, one boat smashed but no lives lost; that the sealing expedition to Dusky Bay had been unsuccessful, the boat being capsized in a north-wester and four hands drowned. On the entry and departure of the home vessels, where many friends are on board, the whole village turns out, from the child to the patriarch, to welcome or bid farewell.

An occasional, but now very rare excitement, engages the attention of the villagers: a whale is seen blowing in Howell Roads. The boats, with their harpoons, lances, and lines, are equipped in a jiffy. They pull out and approach the sea monster. The harpoon is launched with unerring aim into the quivering flesh, and the animal disappears. In due time it comes to the surface to blow, when the lance executes its office, grasped by a bold and firm hand. Cries of triumph soon relate the successful capture, and the monster is towed into the waters of the Aparima to be cut up for the "trying pans."

To continue the parallel that I have attempted to describe, there would not be much difficulty in pointing out the Old Udaller, tough as an uncut diamond, sensitive as the aspen leaf, whose board is spread with abundance in the common hall where high and low sit together to partake. Nor can we detect here a word or motion to offend an entertainer or stranger's pride. Such courtesy and kindness as warm the heart of the wearied are afforded duly by each in their station. Here the amenities that adorn the intercourse of polished society may be a-wanting, yet there is not the grovelling demeanour of the hard-worked and ill-requited labouring man to encounter. Here the position of the labourer is superior, his labour is not dishonoured, and he, consequently, respects himself and others.

To finish my parallel, last not least, Jacob River is not without its Minnas and Brendas to grace the social circle.

The Europeans and Natives, as said before, live in great abundance, nor to attain this is much exertion required; indeed, excepting at planting and reaping their time is their own. To the close and constant labour entailed on the natives of civilized countries they are strangers; it is only on the more exciting employments at which they will be induced to expend their energies, such as whaling, fishing, and mutton-bird catching. With these page 19 they occasionally fill up their spare time. The Moaris delight in good horses, and here they have ample scope in the sport of horse racing on the splendid 25-miles beach stretching to New River.

As I have for the first time mentioned the mutton bird, I may take this opportunity of saying something regarding it. It is a sea-bird that frequents the small islands adjacent to Stewart's Island, and its flesh is much prized by the natives for food. The season for procuring the bird is March and April. It is only the young that are taken, and these are either procured by digging them out of the holes in which they are fostered by the hen, or they are collected by dogs during the night, at which time the hen entices its young out to the sea-shore. When the young bird is caught it is so excessively fat, that my informant, in his own words, tells me, "they are like bladders full of. fat." While the collection of the bird is going on, the process of trying out the fat is continued in pots or cauldrons carried to the islands on purpose. There are two ways of preserving the meat, one by packing the same in kelp bags, filled with the fat of the bird, and the other by salting down. The preservation in kelp bags is a most effectual one. These bags are found on a species of seaweed obtained on the rocks on the coast, and measure about 14 inches square, proving a tight and trustworthy receptacle. To Europeans, generally, the flesh appears rank and over rich, but it is much esteemed by the natives and "old hands."

The Moaris of Jacob River and adjacent settlements have adopted, for the most part, the English costume; garments made of flax are rarely seen, and when worn are only adhered to by some of the elders, probably under the feeling of honouring ancient practice and disapproving of innovations.

The houses of the Moaris are entirely constructed in the manner of European cottages; the walls being of planks, and roof of thatch or shingle: the chimney stands at one end, is coated inside with clay, and possesses ample space on three sides of it for seats or benches. When in their houses, they squat on the floor during daylight; and there being only one apartment, at night modesty owes to darkness only what little respect it may obtain. The torment of the Moari house is the flea, and I have often pitched tent in the wet, rather than encounter the infliction of the myriads that fasten on you in their domiciles.

The Christian religion is professed by nearly all, though it may be correctly surmised that much of the influence of their former superstitions yet holds sway.

In the denizens of Jacob River the west coast of Middle Island is a fertile source of interest, as it is here that they find occupation in whaling or sealing. This coast is the most remote in New Zealand, but it is thoroughly known to them, as it was page 20 much frequented by them and the Europeans of Codfish Island in open boats on sealing expeditions from the origin of their settlements. This part of New Zealand is much subject to westerly gales and heavy rains, so is no agreeable field of industry. Notwithstanding the variable and stormy nature of the region, it was frequented with perfect safety by the experienced, for sounds and promontories alternate in such close succession that harbours of refuge are always close at hand.

One curious feature of these sounds is in their great depth and bold shores; in most cases anchorage is difficult to be found, and when not found vessels moor to the trees. For though it be blowing a gale overhead, the steep cliffs so protect the waters that not a breath is felt on the surface. Mr. Bates, my guide, informs me that copper ore abounds on the west coast, and also coal. The greenstone, so much prized by the Northern Moaris, is also met with. This mineral is said to have a market in China. Mr. Bates also informs me, that a bird, called by the "old hands" the "Emu" (Apteryx), exists in the woods. It is about 18 inches high, and resembles the Australian bird of that name.

It was to the south-west coast of Middle Island that Cook, the celebrated navigator, made lengthened visits, and it might, he expected that remnants of his stay should yet be found; but I learned nothing of these from any of the "old hands" that I questioned on the subject. At Thompson Sound the proofs of a mysterious and fatal event still exist in the remains of a sunken Indiaman. The vessel lies far up the sound, at a spot where her destruction could not have taken place but by design. The ship is said to have been manned principally by Lascars, whom the captain and Europeans landed on an islet, and, leaving the miserable creatures to their fate, they proceeded in the boats to Sydney. The Lascars died of starvation, and their bones are yet to be seen blanching in the sun, strewed in all directions.

In these remote regions how many may have been the cries of agony and despair emitted in vain!—even the few hardy Europeans of Codfish Island, when occupied in their adventurous enterprises—how often were met their experiences of hardships from shipwreck, starvation, and cruelties, by the cannibal tribes that surrounded them! Of these times the "old hands" have many a heart-rending tale to relate; but they relate them without deigning to expect your sympathy—hard lives and rough usage, surfeits in plenty and starvation in poverty, have blunted or effaced all relics of what civilization calls "feelings."

To return to Jacob River Settlement. Corn ripens by the end of February, and is generally cut by the middle of March. The crops, when I saw them, presented a luxuriant appearance, and many of the wheat plots promised to yield 50 to 60 bushels an page 21 acre. The potato crops are always excellent. These crops are easily raised and secured; but wheat is said during some seasons to be got in with some difficulty, owing to the wet. This difficulty I have no hesitation in saying is owing to the want of proper means and appliances. I am informed by a practical agriculturist that in such a climate no fear for the scarcity of the crops need be entertained, if improved methods of farming be resorted to. In a plot of white wheat I counted the grains in an average head, and found them to be 40 in number: some heads bore 70 grains.

On the morning of the 26th, having got our provisions and pack-horses ready, we started, taking Mr. Bates, a settler at Jacob River, to assist in bringing up the extra provisions now required for a lengthened absence. We proceeded as far as Groper Bush, where we remained to examine the country in the neighbourhood. This part bears pasturage of good quality. The formation is aqueous, and limestone, containing fossil shells, crops out to the north of Groper Bush. Bates informs me that one of his native cousins saw the feathers and track of the moa about six years ago amongst the woods west of Jacob River; but he was afraid to follow the bird.

On the banks of the Ormut River some most beautiful sites for farms exist. To the west the woody ranges lie clothed with luxuriant forests of birch; to the east undulating prairies, covered with grass. One or two positions have all the requisites of a baronial demesne.

Bates tells me that the remnants of wild Moaris were found by him some years ago on the west coast These consisted of heaps of skeletons in a cave, fish-books made of bone, and clothing made of flax. There have been occasional suspicions of wild Moaris being about; but he never met with any during his 20 years' residence, during which long period much of his time was spent on the west coast. ^*

March, 1857.—The 2nd of March found us camped under the north-west side of Twinlaw; the hills running from thence to Long-wood Range. All, as far as examined, showed rocks of metamorphic structure; but the western and northern bases showed limestone cropping out. Since we have left the region of the Hokanuis we have observed no more collections of rounded quartz pebbles. The little hillocks caused by the downfall of trees are here either covered with bare clay or pebbles, and stones of sandstone, chert, &c.

On the 3rd I ascended Twinlaw with the hope of obtaining angles; but the weather proved so stormy and thick that I was disappointed. The Waiau, the great river of the west, was for the first time seen meandering through the plains which extend from the Takitimo mountains to the sea. The country to the west of the Waiau is very mountainous, rugged, and woody. The formations of Twinlaw are altered rocks and conglomerates. To the north of the hill ridges of coarse calcareous sandstone crop out, containing broken shells and minute rolled pebbles.

On the 4th we proceeded across the Waiau plains, and camped in a bush not far from the limestone gorge, in a valley formed by the out-crop of limestone strata. The Orawia River was forded today, and its bed was noticed to contain pebbles of plutonic origin. Its banks were composed of soft shales. The first view we had of the Waiau was magnificent, with its bordering, spacious terraces and banks, level plains, and scattered forests. The country passed over bore good grass, but much overrun with fern and flax.

On the 5th I proceeded along the limestone ridge to the gorge of the Waiau. Found the rocks to contain fossil shells in abundance, amongst which the terebratula was conspicuous. On comparing the specimens I obtained with the drawings of the same fossil as obtained in Europe, I find that they nearly correspond with the terebratula porrecta, which belongs to the Devonian group. Another species, but of which I could obtain no complete specimen, resembled the Pecten Lugdunensis, which is found in the Lias group. Various other shells were observed, but in too incomplete a state for satisfactory observation.

I am not aware what has been clone in New Zealand towards classifying the fossils, or towards initiating a theory of age and superposition of strata founded on the classes of fossils: it appears to me that, considering the want of analogy between the existing animal and vegetable creation of the antipodes, it is but reasonable to suppose that in prior ages the same want of similarity obtained, consequently no theory can be ventured on, excepting from local observation and classification, a desideratum (as far as I know) yet to be acquired.

The ridges in the neighbourhood contain many caves, and in one of them I found the decayed bones of the moa. Moari ovens were also seen in the neighbourhood, showing that these parts had been inhabited, and not lying waste as at present. The Waiau forces its way through the limestone ridges, in a clear and well defined channel of about 400 feet broad, yet above and below this the river flows in many channels, which are subject to constant change. The river in this vicinity is nowhere fordable; but a ferry might be established at the gorge. While the eastern page 23 plains of the Waiau are open, with clumps of bush at intervals, the western plains and mountains, with slight exceptions, are covered with forest to the snow line. The Waiau seems to have been an effectual barrier to the Moari and his fire, otherwise long ere this the mountains and valleys would have been denuded of their timber. The country to the west of the Waiau, as far as the west coast, is yet under forest; this extends 100 miles N. and S., and 50 miles E. and w. It is here then, in this only remaining ample expanse, that the Moa (a bird of gigantic dimensions, as proved by the remains of it) may yet find its last refuge; and considering the very recent indications of its existence everywhere found in the vicinity, the supposition of its existence at this present time, at least, has grounds for entertainment.

We washed the sands of the Waiau in our pannikins, and obtained one speck of gold. The channel contains stones of plutonic origin, such as granite, porphyry, and greenstone—proving the interior mountains to be composed of these.

On the 6th we washed the sands of the Orawia, but found no indications of gold.

The 10th found us camped near the head of the Aparima. To the south the country was much "honeycombed" on the surface; that is, was full of small holes closely adjacent, and indicating wet soil. This was the case on the plains, but on the hills the unfavourable surface disappeared. The formations to the west of the Aparima appeared to be generally aqueous, with occasional mingling of metamorphic rocks. Bates informs me, that before he started from Jacob River on the 6th, the crops were nearly all secured, and that the natives were preparing to proceed to the Mutton-Bird Islands.

On the 11th we proceeded to Centre Hill, arriving at 4 P.M. I immediately ascended it to take advantage of the clear weather while it lasted. From the top we obtained an extensive view of the valleys of the upper Oreti, and Waiau. The principal sources of the former are in the west slopes of the Eyre mountains. The heads of the Waiau were observed to come out of two deep gorges in the snowy mountains about 50 miles distant, and the tops of the ranges appeared 70 miles distant. The western head and gorge will thus approach within 20 miles of Milford Sound. Mr. Howell had informed me of a native track between Milford Sound and the head of the Waiau. They frequented this track and the waters of the Waiau, which they ventured upon in maggies or rafts of flax stalks, in proceeding from Milford Sound to Pahees on the south coast.

In the valley of the Waiau I saw two pieces of water, distant about 12 miles; these no doubt are the Teanau Lakes; but another is said to exist farther north.

The area north of Mount Hamilton, extending over the valleys of the upper Waiau and Oreti, cannot be less than 600 square miles. The pasturage, as far as viewed, appeared to be good, and at the same time well wooded. This day has been blowy, and excessively so to-night; so much so that it was with some difficulty that we crawled along the exposed ridges of the hill. The formation of Centre Hill is stratified, containing clay-slates and shales. The grass in the neighbourhood is generally good, but the flats are wet and mossy to some extent.

After we had lit our camp fire the wood-hens came about it as they usually do. A wood-hen or two would have been a dainty addition to our fat pork, so Bates was intent in his attempts to decoy them under his grasp, but to no purpose. The modus operandi he adopted being new to me, I watched his motions with no little interest. Bates first got a stick on which he made a running noose of flax; he also got another somewhat shorter on which he tied his red handkerchief in the form of two wings. He next obtained a broad leaf which he doubled, and putting it between his teeth, by drawing his breath he produced a shrill call imitating with surprising exactness that of the bird. Squatting himself on his heels, Bates, with his two sticks, set about his object with great determination. The birds were not long in answering his call, and one soon came walking up to him. Chrio, chrio, chreek! called Bates, enticing the bird to battle with his winged conjuring stick; duff, duff, duff! bouncingly answered the bird, and duff, duff, duff! as bravely answered Bates. This play went on for some time, but there was no supper to be got off the wood-hen, for she stopped short of the noose, scanning with seriocomic gravity her decoyer, first with one bright black eye and then with the other. True, his nose was as red as her own, for the summer sun had flayed it; true, his legs were as bright red as her own, for the "Spaniards" and "wild Irishmen" had struck and scratched them till they were raw. But I do not like that greedy grey eye fastened on me, says the wood-hen; it is too like that of the all-absorbing Anglo-Saxon; and she walks away notwithstanding the thousand chrio, chrio, chreeks, that poor Bates put forth for his supper. He had to eat fat pork without the longed-for accompaniment.

The 12th was wet and windy, accompanied by hail; Mount Hamilton towered amongst the clouds white with the drifting showers of snow. The weather moderated sufficiently for us to start at 10 A.M. We struck eastward, crossing the Oreti with ease, it not being above ankle deep. After crossing the Oreti, we came upon very rough ground covered with high tussacks and full of holes. We set fire to the country and continued along the lower slopes of the west Dome. The country having been burnt to the east- page 25 ward, we could not judge of its nature, so it was not long ere we found ourselves in an extensive bog. We persevered in our attempts to get through it till we had got about a mile into it, when two of our horses sank to the haunches, and lay there till we unpacked them and hauled them out. We retraced our steps with some difficulty, and made for an island as darkness came on. The wind blew a cold gale over our exposed position, the ground being burnt bare of grass and scrub, yet we managed to pitch our tent and collect sticks enough to boil our kettle and fry some pork. With this we regaled ourselves, leaving for to-morrow the care of getting out our horses from the predicament into which we led them. In the mean time they browsed greedily on such grassy tufts as were sparingly found over the little island.

On the morning of the 13th we were early astir, and after some search found a place just passable for horses, and we got them through after "bogging" two of them. The 14th found us with our tent pitched on the eastern banks of the upper Mataura, where we secured our provisions and tethered our horses. This done we started with the small tent-blankets and provisions on our backs, holding for the pass that I had seen from the Dome leading into the interior, and we camped at 5 P.M., in a gully at the foot of the slate range.

As the nature of this country differs from that which we have hitherto gone over, being now mountainous and dry instead of undulating or level, much intersected by rivers and swamps, some remarks here will not be out of place regarding the mode of getting through the unexplored country of this part of New Zealand. We have crossed in all directions what is generally considered a difficult country, all our party being strangers to the same; but a little experience soon teaches what track to attempt, and what to avoid. The surest indication of country is given by the colour of the grass. If grass ahead be white, go on; it grows on hard ground: if green or brown, turn aside; it grows on soft. Taking heed of this maxim we have easily avoided ground (where it was possible to avoid it) dangerous to our horses, and when we have been at fault it has been when the country has been recently burnt, which renders the whole surface of one dark brown colour. There are many other indications of the nature of the ground. Thus, spear grass, and scrub called Tomataguru, and michimichi grow on hard ground, while the stilted tufts called Moari heads, moss, and rushes, indicate quagmire, and are never to be approached with horses.

In crossing valleys and rivers some experience is required to avoid bad ground. In the concave banks of rivers where lagoons debouch, soft mire and quicksands are often met with, and at the foot of terraces soft swamps are generally found. In crossing page 26 from one terrace or side of a valley to the other, it was our practice to look out for a place where the river made a large sweep, so as to approach across from one side to the other. In such spots it will generally be found that the banks of the river are approachable by sand or gravel spits, left by the floods and tails of the hill spurs. The river itself, if fordable at all, will be so in the middle of the valley. At the edges of the valleys the rivers usually run deep.

The valley in which we now were is bounded on the west by the Eyre mountains, and on the east by the slate ranges. The formation of the hills is schistose, intersected by veins of quartz, in which peroxide of iron is often seen. Good roofing slate is plentiful on the east terraces of the valley.

On the 15th we were early astir, and leaving our tent and blankets we ascended to the top of the slate range, estimated to attain an elevation of 2,000 feet above the valley. After we had arrived at the top we continued along the range till we obtained a satisfactory view of the country beyond. This range divides the waters of the Clutha from those of the Mataura, and in a N.E. direction a comparatively low and undulating country stretched as far as the Canterbury province. No high mountains are seen in this direction; but our view to the right and left was limited by the high land bounding the valley down which we looked. The ascertaining the existence of an available country was all that could be attempted at present, interior exploration being foreign to the present service in which I was engaged. As far as we went pack-horses could be brought, and I saw no obstacles to their farther progress.

We saw no appearance of lakes, and on after inquiry of the Moaris it appears that Wakatip Luke must lie in the valley 5 miles higher up the Mataura, by which route they say it is easily accessible. No Moaris now living in the south have been in this direction for 16 years, and they have generally a very imperfect idea of the configuration of the interior with its lakes and rivers; so, much of their information proved fallacious. Thus, the Moaris of Jacob River maintained that the Mataura, Jacob River, and New River had their sources in Wakatip Lake.

Wakatip Lake was at one time much frequented for its greenstone, formerly an article of trade with the northern Moaris.

The scenery from the top of Slate Range was truly magnificent, for we had the bold precipitous and peaked Eyre mountains opposite us, while at our feet in the blue distance meandered the silvery Mataura, which we could trace from its source in Eyre Peak till it lost itself in the deep gorge beneath the Dome. The prospect was quite Alpine, imitating in wildness the valleys of Savoy; but here we missed the well cultivated fields and green page 27 pastures of the "interval." When will there be an analogy in this also?

The passing day warned us to descend, so we returned to the valley, and reloading ourselves we made for the spot where we left our horses and provisions. On the way we chased two wild dogs, sending some shot into one of them. They were pure white in colour. On turning back we set fire to the grasses so as to give facility to future travellers. The constant forcing our way through high grass, fern, and scrub, has worn shoes and trousers into holes and rags. We tumble dozens of times in a day, one time over a tussuck, another time into a hole; now against a "Spaniard," and then into the rough arms of a "wild Irishman;" till our legs are raw with jags and scratches, and our hands and arms are full of thorns. The hair is even worn off the legs of our horses, and their fetlocks are full of sores. On the top of the Slate Range mica schist prevailed. The formation indicates gold, but we were not successful in obtaining specimens in the bed of the river.

On the 16th we recrossed the upper Mataura and returned to the creek near Observation Bush, where we camped. We set fire to the country as we went along, and now fully 30 miles is in a blaze. This evening is calm, and the Dome mountain is on fire from top to bottom. About this time two years I was in Rome when the illumination of the Dome of St. Peter's took place. On the former Dome Nature has only given one mite of her care; on the latter man has expended the highest of his skill. Both have their characteristics. Man's work, though limited, was beautiful; Nature's, as viewed to-night, was great and terrible.

On the 19th we had proceeded to the south end of the Taringtura Downs; along the eastern edge of the same, schists and porphyries were seen to prevail, and the pasturage was of superior quality. On the south end breccias were abundant, and limestone is found more westerly, distance about 4 miles.

As the steep country terminates here, and the low land begins, it was a subject of some consequence to the public to ascertain if any road could be got, either by the banks of the Oreti or Makerewa, to New River Junction or to Invercargill. With the object of finding indications I ascended a hill and carefully reconnoitred the banks of the said rivers. Both showed herbage unfavourable for passage, particularly the Makerewa, where a dull brown swamp covered with patches of scrub was seen to extend over all the country not occupied by hills and forest. There was no use in losing time on the Makerewa, we therefore proceeded to examine the banks of the Oreti. After leaving the Taringtura Downs we got on to "honey-combed" country for one or two miles, but descending the terrace we held on to a track of hard page 28 ground which did not continue above other two miles. Here wet country prevailed in a manner to debar the passage of quadrupeds. Seeing there was no passage this way, we returned to our camp on the Taringtura Downs, at which we arrived by dark.

A route to New River might be suggested by the Spar Bush, but this line of road is so much intersected by swamps that it would have been impossible to have taken our horses with us. It is possible that parties having more time at their command may yet find a practicable route from the Taringtura Downs to Invercargill, and I would suggest as the most likely direction—the crossing of the Oreti 5 miles below the Downs, and thence by Macfarlane's Station.

We were at Jacob River Settlement on the 22nd, where we found the harvest with slight exceptions secured. On the 24th we proceeded to New River, sheltering ourselves for the night in an old house at Owi. On the 25th we swam our horses across the estuary of the New River, here ¾ of a mile broad, and got to Campbell Town on the Bluff. This day I observed granite and schist, in contact and amalgamating. On the 26th we swam our horses across the Bluff Harbour, and lodged for the night at Davis's cottage, situated in Tewai Point. This cottage is romantically placed on the shores of the Southern Ocean, in the neighbourhood of rugged rocks, kelp, and roaring surf.

On the 27th we proceeded to the ferry-house at the Toitoes, arriving at 7 P.M. The road bad, along an unfirm beach of gravel and sand extending 20 to 25 miles in length: the journey is therefore a trying one. At the end of this we had to swim our horses across the harbour, about i of a mile in breadth. From Tewai Point to Bushy Point the formation is recent deposit of quartz pebbles, and the grass on it is inferior. To the north and east of Bushy Point as far as the Mataura, and stretching inland 3 to 7 miles, the formation consists of decayed vegetable matter, whose surface is a peat bog. In the bog lagoons of brackish water are numerous. This day has been as beautiful as could be desired, and the cool sea-breeze was refreshing.

The house that we got into at the end of our long journey belonged to an "old hand," and was as primitive as its owner. It was built of grass, with a fire in the centre, the chimney being a hole in the roof. The inhabitants consisted of an old man, a child, 6 dogs, 2 cats, 1 hen, 3 chickens, fleas innumerable, and 1 pig. The pig was the playfellow of the child, and thus, being a pet, when not in the arms of the child, had the snuggest seat at the fire.

Now as there were neither candles, chairs, nor tables, culinary and scullery operations had to go on by the fireside; these it may be imagined were done under difficulties which our old entertainer page 29 could scarcely meet. For the pig was fond of potatoes, the dogs of beef; surrounded by such hungry myrmidons, a system of attack and defence was constantly going on, in which both mess and dishes were overturned and emptied. At length the energetic hospitality of our "old hand" prevailed, who placing our supper on the top of a chest—which had the advantage of darkness to cover the viands—I am scarcely ashamed to confess that we did all the justice to the same that ravenous appetites from a long journey are capable of.

The Toitoes harbour is safe inside, but is difficult of ingress and egress, owing to the narrowness of the mouth, and the generally very heavy surf upon its bar. The harbour is formed by the debouching of the Mataura River into the sea, which has the effect of keeping open a space at the junction of the sandy beach with the cliffy heads which would otherwise be choked up.

From the Toitoes we held along the eastern banks of the Mataura, which river we crossed near Dr. Menzies' station; thence we returned to Invercargill on the 31st, after examining the country adjacent to the Waikivi Creek. I got but slight insight into the nature of the formation to the east of the Mataura. The nature of the grasses would indicate the presence of lime; some metamorphosed rocks were observed cropping out on Kuriwau Hill. The pasturage near the coast is inferior, being overrun with fern, but it rapidly improves as we journey inland, and the scenery is strikingly agreeable.

The survey was now completed; and before returning to headquarters I may take this opportunity of venturing on a few remarks which may appear too personal to be interesting. After serving so many years in the Survey Service of India, on this my first entry on the rough duties of the Colonial Surveyor, I had the contrast of circumstances pretty sensibly defined on my memory. The species are broadly distinct. The Indian Survey officer is clothed in snow white from "sola topi" down to canvas pipeclayed shoes. He smokes his perfumed "hooka" or the fragrant "manilla" with an air of listless satisfaction. When he walks on duty he is followed by a "Piada," carrying an umbrella to shade him from the sun, and should a gutter cross his path, two lusty "bearers" are ready to lift him over. Two or three hours of out-door exposure of his precious self suffices for the day, which done he sits at the door of his capacious tent enjoying his "otium cum dignitate" and his brandy "pance." The slightest weight distresses him—he does not even carry a purse. He has hundreds of luxuries at his command; but does he enjoy them? No: an extra mouthful of "moorgee" or glass of "simp-kin" requires three doses of nitro-muriatic acid to assist poor page 30 debilitated nature. His hollow eye and cadaverous complexion tell a tale.

The Colonial Surveyor in these regions is clothed in fustian trousers and blue shirt, Panama hat, and stout hob-nailed shoes. He is not known from his chainman. If he smokes, it is foetid negrohead through a "cutty" pipe, and he puffs at that energetically. He has a hundred things about him; knives, needles, telescopes, matches, paper, ink, thread and buttons; these are stowed away in all corners of his dress; and then his "swag" contains his tent-blankets, and change of clothes. These with his theodolite he carries on his back, and walks away through bogs, "creeks," and scrubs, at the rate of 3 miles an hour. He cleans his shoes once a month with mutton drippings, and he lives on "damper,' salt junk, and oceans of tea. His fare is homely, but it is refreshing to see his voracity. His bed is on the ground, and he considers himself lucky if he gets into a bush where he can luxuriate in the warmth of a blazing fire. In this land of equality he shares bed and board with his men, but they are not of the common sort, for "the service" is popular amongst the enterprising colonists, and he has to pick. They are men that know their place and duty.

Having partaken of the bitters and sweets of both services pretty freely, I must state that upon the whole, as surveyors are made to be killed, I prefer "dum vivimus" cold air and stout appetite, to a hot air and general prostration. I prefer the homely enjoyments of colonial life.

By the 15th of April I was again in Dunedin, the capital of the province, having since I left it travelled over, mostly on foot, nearly 1500 miles of difficult country, and surveyed by "reconnoissance" near 2 ½ millions of acres. I was forced to remain for five days at Invercargill to rest my horse, as it was much knocked up. As I had received orders from his Honour the Superintendent to examine the bar of the Clutha River, I diverged for that purpose, and thus had an opportunity of viewing the beautiful scenery of the delta of that river, and of partaking of the hospitality of several of its highly esteemed settlers.

The entrance of the Clutha is undoubtedly a difficult one, being crossed by a bar, and having a narrow channel with an almost constant outward current, bounded on one side by shifting sands, and on the other by rocks partly sunken and awash.

Leaving the delta of the Clutha I proceeded on to Dunedin, arriving there on the evening of the 14th April. The most remarkable features on the route are extensive wet levels, covered with that stilted tuft-grass called "Moari heads" by the settlers. The tuft is supported by a trunk of conglomerated fibrous roots, page 31 not unlike the trunk of the date palm, without its consistency. It stands from 3 to 5 feet high, and resembles a dwarf palm: indeed were it true that Nature slowly produces alteration in genera and species, so as to graduate one into the other, a favourite theory of some philosophers, I would say of this little grass tree that it was simply an embryo palm. It is remarkably adapted to its position, for the levels on which it is found being subject to alternate droughts and floods, the trunk, by its elevation, supports the tuft of grass on its head securely above the influence of the waters.

When I left Invercargill only three houses had been built, viz., the survey office, Mr. Mae Andrews' store, and Mr. Lind's house of accommodation; but as the sections had been sold, great preparations were being made to commence building operations. The site of Invercargill is nearly level, with sufficient fall for drainage and sanatory operations. It stands on a broad estuary, and is bounded on two sides by dense wood. The scenery in the vicinity is not unpleasing, and, were roads constructed, the spot may be made as agreeable as any in temperate regions.

To Captain Stokes, R.N., is due the merit of having first brought to the notice of the Society the capabilities of the district, and the advantages of its geographical position towards England and Australia. In his remarks on its eligibility for European colonization and fertility of soil I heartily concur. For the detailed expression of the opinions of the above distinguished officer I beg to refer inquirers to the 21st volume of the Society's Journals, page 25.