Other formats

    Adobe Portable Document Format file (facsimile images)   TEI XML file   ePub eBook file  

Connect

    mail icontwitter iconBlogspot iconrss icon

The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 45

Waiwera (Hot Springs,)

page break

Waiwera (Hot Springs,)

The proprietor of the Waiwera Estate, whose portrait appears on the first page of this pamphlet, arrived in New Zealand on the 8th October, 1842, in the barque "Jane Gifford," the first vessel that cast anchor in the Auckland harbour direct from Great Britain. The "Duchess of Argyle" arrived the same day, both vessels having brought out many of the early settlers, who may be looked upon as the pioneers of Auckland. His attention was first drawn to Waiwera by a Mr. Johnson, who had suffered for sixteen years from a most painful and distressing skin disease on his ankle, which was pronounced incurable by some of the most eminent men of the medical profession in the mother country, yet, wonderful to relate, after four weeks' bathing, and drinking the mineral waters at Waiwera, he was completely cured, and during an acquaintance of over twenty years, had no return of his complaint. Mr. Graham was so astonished at this wonderful cure, he at once made up his mind to acquire the property if possible,—which was accomplished after great difficulty, and at considerable expense, in 1845; the purchase took two years to negotiate, consequently he has now owned this property about thirty two years; and, during the greater part of that time, has bathed and drunk freely of the water, with most beneficial results to his own health and constitution

Mr. Graham, with commendable foresight, as early as 1846, planted a great many fruit trees and vines, which now supply the establishment; and visitors get fruits, in their season, such as peaches, apples, pears, plums, cherries, figs, grapes, guavas, and strawberries; while with fine cows on the rich pasture land, the house is abundant'y supplied with milk.

page 4

Can it be wondered at, that with a salubrious climate, health-restoring mineral springs, a plentiful supply of fruit, vegetables, and other luxuries, visitors enjoy, and derive great benefit from a visit to Waiwera.

In the early days of the Colony, the natives were much more numerous than at present, Mr. Graham having seen as many as 3,000 on the beach at one time; and witnessed many cures of the most obstinate character; and he firmly believes the Waiwera Springs will prove (when their virtues are better known) to be one of the most healthful and curative spots in the world.

Mr. John Anderson, an old settler, who still lives on the banks of the river, relates many amusing anecdotes of his sojourn at Waiwera, and the wonderful cures effected during his time. The first house built at Waiwera was burned down in 1856; some time afterwards a second was built, called Vine Cottage, managed by Mr. Alex. Wilson—now living near Stokes' Point, North Shore—where many patients, of whom no record has been kept, were restored to health. The first part of the present house was erected in 1865, and occupied at different times by Messrs. Sims, Seaman, Wrigley, and Webb; but it was not till 1875 that the establishment was made known by advertisement.

Mr. Graham seems never tired of making improvements. At the present time, he is fitting up a bath on the beach, with the intention of having another hot swimming bath; and erecting close to it a sea bath, so that visitors will be able to enjoy a hot mineral bath and a plunge in the sea, or can have a salt water bath alone—a want that has often been felt at Waiwera. In course of time other improvements are contemplated, such as erecting a wharf, obtaining a suitable steamer—to afford regular, cheap, and speedy daily communication with Auckland by water, also by coach overland, when the road is completed—building cottages for families, and separate accommodation for invalids, &c.; which will entail further expenditure.

page 5

It is proposed, in the following pamphlet, to give those unacquainted with the wondrous healing powers of these natural springs, some information, commencing with—

Their History.

In the year 1845 a house was erected, a garden laid off, and considerable improvements effected; shortly afterwards, the Heki war broke out at the Bay of Islands, and the Natives having threatened to burn Auckland, those in charge deserted the house, which was afterwards plundered. About this time a most remarkable case is recorded, namely, that of Mr. John Sullivan, of Mahurangi Heads. He had been for months completely "doubled up" with rheumatism, when he was induced to try bathing and drinking the water, and, after two months, was completely cured. Although this happened no less than thirty-two years ago, he is still alive, hale and hearty, living within three miles of Waiwera. Another remarkable case which occurred in 1848, is that of Samuel Clare, who had been an inmate of the hospital for nine months, and, being pronounced incurable, wished to go to Waiwera to die; he was landed on the beach with two weeks' provisions, and could only crawl on his hands and knees a few yards at a time, he managed to scrape a hole in the sand, and there bathed; at the expiration of two weeks he was able to walk about the beach, and for sixteen years afterwards lived by hard work in the bush. He always declared that the Springs could effect greater cures than all the doctors put together.

About the year 1850, Mr. John Anderson took a lease of the Waiwera property for five years, and during his stay many cures were effected, amongst them being that of Mr. Thornton (of the firm of Thornton, Smith, & Firth), who came from England a complete cripple, having had to use crutches for fifteen years, after trying Wiesbaden and other famous continental springs, without deriving benefit; to the surprise of everybody, after six weeks' residence at Waiwera, he page 6 threw away his crutches, and pronounced himself as well as ever he was in his life; he walked to Auckland, a rough journey in those days, of twenty-four miles through bush country. Although this occured twenty-six years ago, he has had no relapse since.

The proprietor has lately purchased the land adjoining, including the hill on which the Springs take their rise, and, at a large expenditure, so improved the place that it must soon become as favorite a resort for the pleasure-seeker, as it is now a necessary one for the invalid. Several years ago the water was traced to its source on the hill side, but owing to local difficulties nothing further was done till about three years ago, when a drive was put into the solid rock, yielding a copious and never-failing supply of water, and at a higher level. A large reservoir has been constructed to contain water enough to fill eighteen baths, and this is constantly replenished by the natural spring out of the rock; from the reservoir the water is conveyed through three-inch pipes to the baths. A large mineral water plunge bath has also been constructed; this is supplied from a constantly flowing spring, so that the water is always hot and fresh. Independently of these baths, which are supplied by the spring in the drive, there is a beach bath, situated above ordinary high-water mark. It is intended to provide this bath with six dressing-rooms, where the bather may remain for a time wrapped in blankets, should his case require such treatment. In many cases great benefit is derived from drinking freely of the water, which has a slight saline, but not unpleasant taste, almost resembling that of warm new milk. It is customary to drink the water both before and after bathing, but many bottle and drink it cold. The temperature of the mineral water ranges from 100 to no degrees Fahr., a temperature highly approved by those who have studied therapeutics. A bath taken in the afternoon or evening is almost invariably followed by sound and refreshing sleep, and has frequently been found to succeed where sedatives and opiates have page 7 failed. Invalids, after taking the bath, experience a most exquisite feeling of renewed vigor, but should be careful not to be tempted by the delightful sensation accompanying it, and allow themselves to be too long immersed; even when this has been the case, languor soon passes away, and renewed vitality, with increased appetite, invariably follow.

Native Traditions.

The Mineral Hot Springs are situated a very short distance from the Hotel, and the Baths have been erected on the beach at the foot of the hill. The curative and health-restoring properties of the waters have been known to the natives for many years; indeed, so much were they appreciated, that they came from all parts of the Island to bathe in them; and in consequence of the great benefits derived, called the Hot Springs Te Rata, "The Doctor." The native mode of bathing was to dig a large hole in the sandy beach; this hole was soon filled with hot water, in which they would sit or lie indiscriminately, and, under the invigorating influence of the waters, would talk and smoke for hours, in this primitive way availing themselves of the curative properties of the Springs. Probably there is no other part of New Zealand the natives have so much coveted, or where so many battles have been fought, as at the Waiwera. It was formerly owned by the powerful Ngatirangi tribe, who had to contend against repeated attacks by the Ngatiwhatua and Ngatipou tribes, which were made without success. The bay was protected by four fortified pahs; on the North by the Kakaha pah, 300 feet high; on the South by the Whau pah, 230 feet high; on the East by the Mahurangi, 140 feet high; and on the West by the Pitawai, 320 feet high.

The mother of the chief Te Hemera, who died about twenty years ago, at the advanced age of over 100 years, remembered Captain Cook's visit to New Zealand, and page 8 used to narrate the story of having witnessed the Thames natives eating the first soap given them by the great navigator, not knowing at the time any other use to apply it to. This Maori, who was the oldest native woman in New Zealand, saw some most wonderful cures effected, and had been herself in the habit of bathing in the mineral waters for over one hundred years, used to say, that but for them she would not have lived to half her age.

Situation of the Springs.

The Waiwera (Hot Springs) are situated about 24 miles North of Auckland, and are accessible both by land and water. The steamer "Anne Milbank" calls at the Hot Springs daily, leaving Auckland at 11 a.m., on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, arriving about 2 p.m.; and returning about 1 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. The many marvellous cures that have been effected by the baths and by drinking the water, more especially in cases of Rheumatism, Paralysis, Neuralgia, Sciatica, Gout, Skin Diseases, &c., are fully vouched for by testimonials printed herewith, which have been taken at hazard from a large number sent to Mr. Graham. There can be no doubt that when the healing and beneficial properties of these Springs are more generally known, the Waiwera will become the great sanitarium not only of New Zealand, but also of the other Australasian Colonies, and attract invalids from India, America, and even the Continent of Europe.

The Springs are situated in one of the many and beautiful Bays in which this Province abounds. The Bay is enclosed by high ranges of hills, richly and densely clothed with native trees from base to summit; while the climate, possibly due to the warm and genial exhalations from the heated subterranean waters, is exceedingly mild, tempered with most exhilarating sea breezes. Near the North-east of the Bay is a precipitous rocky island, standing about 140 feet high, this is accessible at low water, page 9 and is called the "Mahurangi," signifying steam rising to the Heavens; it was formerly the site of an important Maori pah.

The Hotel is situated close to the beach, about 100 yards above high water, a id commands an extensive and highly picturesque view of the Bay and the many beautiful islets which stud the ocean. Almost opposite is the Island of Tiri Tiri, and at night the Light-house is plainly to be seen. Vessels and steamers are also visible as they pass to and from Auckland harbour, and beyond, the headlands sink into distinct but subdued pencillings of magnificent outline, including the Coromandel ranges and Cape Colville.

A horse road of about five miles, with easy gradients, has lately been made between Waiwera and Puhoi, a German settlement, with about 300 inhabitants; the road to the rising settlement of Warkworth has also been lately opened, a line of road surveyed to Wainui; and the Government is at present surveying a line to connect Waiwera with the North Shore; this, when finished, will enable visitors to reach Waiwera by coach in four hours, in any kind of weather.

Analysis of the Waters.

Auckland,

The following analysis of the water taken from the main spring, has been made by Mr. Tunny.

Sir,—The following is my report on the water forwarded by you from the Waiwera (Hot Springs). The water is perlectly clear and colourless, is without odour, but has a decidedly saline-taste:—
Grs. per gal.
Chloride of sodium 123.82
Chloride of calcium 7.10
Chloride of magnesium 1.36
Carbonate of calcium 1.60
Carbonate of magnesium 22
Carbonate of iron 43
Phosphates and silica 1.61
Total saline matter 136.14
(Signed)

James M. Tunny,

R. Graham, Esq.

Provincial Analyst.
page 10

A second analysis gives the following results:—

During his visit to the North, his Excellency the Marquis of Normanby had a sample of the water from the Waiwera Springs sent to the Laboratory at Wellington for analysis. The following is the official report on the same:—

Specimen No. 1820, forwarded by Mr. Robert Graham, at the request of the Marquis of Normanby. Locality, Waiwera. Received June 10, reported on July 26, 1876. Mineral Water—quite clear and colourless; manifests a distinct alkaline reaction to litmus paper, and has a feebly saline taste. From the appended results of its analysis, it appears to belong to the class of mineral known as the alkaline.

Analysis.

Grs. per gal.
Chloride of sodium 116.715
Chloride of potassium .091
Chloride of lithium Traces
Iodide of magnesium Traces
Sulphate of soda .383
Bi-carbonate of soda 87.573
Bi-carbonate of lime 10.692
Bi-carbonate of magnesia .954
Bi-carbonate of iron .686
Alumina Traces
Silica 2.464
219.558

This water is similar to several of the famous Continental waters; for instance, Vichy, in France; and Fachingen, in Nassau, both of which are largely used medicinally.

(Signed)

W. Skey.

To the Editor of the "Herald."

Sir,—I was recently a patient at Waiwera, and, as the springs there are acquiring fame and reputation, I have much pleasure in sending you the result of an application made to Messrs. Corbyn & Co., eminent analytical chemists, of London, to ascertain what baths or waters in Europe the two springs of Waiwera are similar to. I enclose a copy of their letter.—I am, &c.,

W. E. Thomas.

Auckland,

P.S.—The waters of Aix-la-chapelle, to which it will be seen those of Waiwera are most similar, are recommended in cases of gout, rheumatism, and gravel.

page 11
3oo, High Holborn, London,

Sir,—We have compared the two analyses of the New Zealand springs as enclosed, with all the spas of Europe, and we find that they resemble (generally) the following, viz.:—(1.) Adelheids- quelle; (2.) Aix-la-chapelle; (3.) Friedrichshalle; (4.) Kreuznach. No. 2 is the one they resemble most closely.

Yours faithfully, (Signed) Corbyn & Co.

These analyses not being made on the spot, it should be borne in mind that some of the more delicate and volatile components of the water must have, to a great extent, evaporated.

In addition to the above, there are two other springs, of a totally different character, which have not yet been analysed, viz., one known as the beach spring, strongly impregnated with sulphur, which it is intended to at once utilise, by erecting a bath and dressing-rooms; and a second containing other minerals. Thus there are three distinct, known mineral springs on the property, suitable to a great diversity of complaints.

There is abundant testimony that the curative properties of the water afford, more or less relief to ninety out of every hundred who have used the baths. Invalids, who have been laid up for weeks, months, and even years, and have remained at the Springs for only a few weeks, have left thoroughly recovered by a judicious use of the baths, and drinking freely of the water. The number of written certificates and testimonials received from many of the cured, fully bears out this statement; some who came to the Springs with very forlorn hopes, have left thoroughly restored to health. The water can also be aerated, and, when bottled, resembles soda-water, containing all the medicinal qualities of the Waiwera Springs, and is pleasant to take.

Extra Strong Sulphur Baths.

Besides the natural water baths, sulphur baths of any strength can be obtained when required, equal in every respect to the most powerful Sulphur Springs in New page 12 Zealand. These are prepared by the addition of sulphur from White Island, and other chemicals, to the natural mineral waters of the Waiwera; can be taken of any strength, and up to a temperature of no degrees. They will be found of the greatest value to invalids specially requiring sulphur, and equal, with superior local advantages, to those already so highly prized in other parts of the Island.

Time for Bathing.

Invalids are recommended, as far as possible, to adhere to the following suggestions:—Take a bath before breakfast, a second in the afternoon, and a third before going to rest at night, drinking a cupful of the mineral water both before and after each bath; ac-cording to the nature of the disease, and the strength of the patient, the number of baths per day can be increased or reduced; from five to fifteen minutes in ordinary cases is about the usual time to remain in, but patients will soon learn from their own instincts and feelings, the time best suited to their constitution.

Hotel Accommodation.

The accommodation is most complete; the table abundantly supplied with every delicacy of the season, to tempt the appetite of the invalid, as well as the robust; and every attention is paid to the various wants of visitors. Owing to the increased demand for accommodation, the proprietor has lately added a new wing to the Hotel, which now contains fifty additional bed-rooms and private sitting-rooms, a commodious billiard-room and smoking-room, with every convenience for the comfort of visitors. Water pipes are laid on, so as to bring in water at a high elevation, thus giving a regular supply for all purposes at the Hotel.

Everything is conducted in a regular and methodical manner. Meals are always ready at the appointed hours; and pleasant cheerful company, chess, drafts, page 13 billiards, whist, music, croquet, lawn tennis, and other games, afford a variety of amusement, and effectually dispel monotony.

The hours for meals are, breakfast, at 8 a.m., dinner at 1 p.m., tea at 6 p.m.

Grounds, Gardens, &c.

The property comprises an area of 440 acres, a portion of which is tastefully laid out and planted with fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. In front of the Hotel is a croquet lawn, with every requisite for the game. At the South there is a large paddock, suitable for cricket, football, athletic games, and other sports. At the back of the Hotel are flower and kitchen gardens, with orchard. There is also a vineyard planted with over 2,000 choice grape vines, carefully selected from the best varieties known to Continental cultivators. Pleasure boats, at moderate charges, are provided, for the use of visitors who may wish to amuse themselves in boating and fishing, there being an abundant supply of many of the finest kinds of fish in the bay. The boats are in charge of experienced men, when required. Lovers of picturesque scenery could not be more gratified than by a sail up the charming windings of the Waiwera River; its banks being clothed with endless varieties of indigenous vegetation. Here may be found the most rare and exquisite ferns, intermingled with nikau palm, luxuriant creepers, and shrubs of every description, while magnificent forest trees, such as kauri, pohutekauwa, puriri, and others, enhance the richness and beauty of the scene. Walks have been cut through the bush, to connect the different points of interest with the Hotel, and here the botanist may spend his time with pleasure and delight amongst the numerous gifts of nature

Visitors have the privilege of shooting over the estate, and in season, large numbers of pheasants, pigeons, and kakas can be obtained.

page 14

There are many thriving homesteads in the neighbourhood, while in the densely timbered forest numbers of bushmen, shingle splitters and fencers, find profitable employment. About a mile along the coast, South from the Springs, are most interesting caves, well worth a visit from the tourist. On the adjoining river to the North, called the Puhoi, is a German settlement; also a native settlement, where Te Hemara, the chief of the district, resides. About three miles further North is the spacious Mahurangi harbour; at the head of the river is the thriving settlement of Warkworth. A short distance further North is the settlement of Matakana, and immediately opposite is Kawau, the beautiful island home of Sir George Grey, where he has collected rare plants and trees, and acclimatised numerous animals and birds. Sir George Grey takes great pleasure in showing strangers round his magnificent house, interesting library, and grounds. The distance from Kawau to the Waiwera is about eight miles.

The naturalist and conchologist may here, in many pleasant places, pursue uninterrupted their engaging studies. On the beach and in the adjoining bays are found many rare and valuable shells, star fish, sea weed, and mollusca, and there is no doubt that all who visit the Waiwera, either to recruit their health or for pleasure, will be both delighted and benefitted.

The importance of the Waiwera (Hot Springs) and neighbourhood is fully acknowledged by the Government, who have erected a post and money order office, life insurance office, savings bank, and telegraph station, in close proximity to the Hotel, from which messages can be sent to all parts of the world.

Mails are dispatched and received to and from Auckland three times a week; but, as soon as the contemplated new road is opened, it is the intention of the Government to have daily postal communication.

Opinions of the Press.

The following descriptions, of Waiwera, "The page 15 Auckland Sanitarium," as it as been called, are taken from the four Auckland newspapers then in existence, (the two morning and two evening being now combined in one morning and one evening.)

Extract From New Zealand Herald,

13th September, 1875.

The Hot Springs of Waiwera, little over twenty miles from Auckland, deserves more attention than they have yet received, Their value as a hygienic and medicinal restorative is beyond question. The number of persons who have derived permanent benefit from a visit to them, and even a short residence in their neighbourhood, is very great. Those who have experienced this benefit are emphatic in their enconiums of the attention they received during their stay at the Hot Springs from the manager of the excellent Hotel which has been established at Waiwera. The proprietor of the land upon which this establishment stands has, by means of a most liberal expenditure, improved the house and grounds so that the accommodation provided shall be commensurate with all the requirements which would serve to give pleasure and comfort to the ordinary visitor, and ease and retirement to the invalid. The water is also ærated, and bottled similar to soda water, and in this state retains all its medicinal qualities, and is pleasant to take. The surrounding country presents many features of attraction. The proprietor is putting up a new wing to the Hotel. The grounds are laid out in flower-gardens and vineyards, paddocks for cricket and field sports. The Springs are contiguous to the German and English settlements of Puhoi and Warkworth. There are interesting caves along the coast. Almost opposite, and accessible by an open boat, is Sir George Grey's delightful Island of Kawau. The beach and bays which indent it are rich in shells. For the enjoyment of leisure, or in quest of renewed health, this place is one of the most interesting and valuable in the Colony.

Extract from Daily Southern Cross, of 8th September, 1875.

It is very gratifying to learn that the number of visitors to the Waiwera (Hot Springs) has this year been so numerous, that the enterprising proprietor is now making arrangements for the completion of a new wing to the Hotel, containing fifty additional bed-rooms, and a commodious billiard-room. Our advertising columns have for some months past contained testimonials as to the efficacy of the Hot Springs in curing Rheumatism, Sciatica, Scrofula, Gout, and Skin Diseases, and from the above-mentioned fact of further Hotel extension being required, it would appear that their name and fame must be page 16 extending to the Southern Provinces and the sister colonies. It would be difficult to conceive a more charming spot where the healthy could disport themselves for a holiday season; and to the sick, suffering from any of the above-stated complaints, it is sheer folly to drag on a miserable existence, while such preponderating probabilities exist of a speedy and most agreeable cure being effected. There are no nauseating draughts to swallow. The water itself is pleasant to the taste, and is mostly drunk by the bather on entering the bath and leaving. The additional accommodation which is now to be provided, will meet the wants of patients who are not blessed with a plethora of cash; but it is the aim of the proprietor to ensure the utmost comfort to both first and second-class boarders, whilst residing at the Hotel; and with this view, extensive gardens have been laid out to please the eye; music, croquet, and other games are provided; and every delicacy of the season to tempt the palate.

Extract from Evening Star, 10th September, 1875.

To residents in this city it is unnecessary to give a description of Waiwera, but by a large body of our people we believe the fact is hardly realized that we have, within a pleasant trip of a few hours steaming, one of the most remarkable in the world, of those strange chemical laboratories in which Nature herself compounds her medicines for the healing of the ills to which flesh is liable. From the testimony of those who have personally called on us to express the wonderful relief and cures they have experienced, we could afford strong evidence that at Waiwera we have a boon provided which might truly be regarded as a blessing from Heaven. The surprising cures that are now of frequent occurrence from bathing in and drinking of the waters, have been rapidly producing effect on the popular mind, and a place that a year or two ago had only infrequent visitors, has now become so popular that the large hotel is always crowded, and the proprietor is about to add fifty additional bed-rooms. Nothing could better express the manner in which the character of the Springs has asserted itself, and we venture to say that as the days roll on the fame of the Springs will be soon such that invalids from all the colonies will come trooping in thousands, and sound the praises of Waiwera far and wide. The little pamphlet now appearing will tend largely to this end, for in a graphic style it truthfully tells the rare attractions of the place. The healing powers of Waiwera, and the simple sylvan, quiet beauty of the surroundings, will ever make it a favourite resort for invalids. Pending the hoped-for connection of the telegraphic wire, we have endeavoured to assist the enterprising proprietor, by maintaining connection between that little sequestered cove and Auckland, through the agency of our feathered messengers.

page 17

Extract from the Auckland Echo, July 20th.

The virtues of the water of the Hot Springs at Waiwera are only, after many years use and experience, becoming generally known and appreciated. Of late years the enterprise of the proprietor of the adjacent land has provided the necessary accommodation for visitors of all classes, and the value of the Springs, and opportunities for using them, are becoming more widely known, which is proved by the fact of visitors, who, arriving from time to time from a distance, will, beyond a doubt, again carry back into all parts of the colonies, the account of the wonderful restorative powers which, in certain cases, these waters possess. To old settlers about the adjacent settlements their value has been long known, especially for Rheumatic affections. More than sixteen years ago—at which time the only accommodation near the Springs was a small bush public-house, a bath could only be obtained by digging out a hole in the sand on the beach, into which the water flowed, and the bather lying down stopped in it till the sand gradually filled in under him, and left him lying on the beach again. The writer recollects an Australian miner, completely crippled with Rheumatism, scarce having the use even of his hands, spending some three months at Waiwera, and leaving as hale and sound as he ever was in his life. No such specific for this disease can, we believe, be found in the world as the Hot Springs at the Waiwera, the water being used for both drinking and bathing purposes.

decorative feature