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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 23

Section B.—Animal Substances used in Manufactures. — Wool

page 26

Section B.—Animal Substances used in Manufactures.

Wool.

452.Thibet Wool, Darjeeling.
453.Wool, 1st sort, Choonian.
454.Yumba, Highland lamb's wool, Thibet.
455.Che Bal (Jangpa) Highland sheep's wool, Thibet.
456.Thibet wool, Darjeeling.
457.Rong Bal valley sheep's wool, Thibet.
458.Wool, Jesselmere.
459.Goat's wool, Yarkend, Thibet.
460.Yak's wool, Pœphagus grunniens, Thibet.
461.White wool, Jhung.
462.Sheep's wool, ¼-bred, Mysore.
463.White wool, cleaned, Guzerat.
464.Sheep's wool, ¾-bred, Mysore.
465.Wool, Mysore.
466.Wool of the Thibet goat, Pushun, used in the manufacture of Cashmere shawls.
467.Wool, Shikarpore.
468.Wool, Khelat.
469.Black wool, Bombay.
470.Cashmere goat's wool, 4th sort, Umritsur.
471.Cashmere goat's wool, 2nd sort, Umritsur.
472.Cashmere goat's wool, Umritsur.
473.Wool, Mysore.
474.Thibet wool, Darjeeling.
475.Wool of the Thibetan goat, Pushun.
476.Goat's wool, used in the manufacture of Cashmere shawls, Thibet.
477.Wool, Cuttack.
478.Cashmere goat's wool, 3rd class, Umritsur.
479.Cashmere goat's wool, 2nd class, Umritsur.
480.Goat's wool, Umritsur.
481.Cashmere goat's wool, 1st class, Umritsur
482.Wool, Ahmedabad.
483.Cashmere goat's wool, Umritsur.page 27
484.Cashmere goat's wool, Umritsur.
485.Cabul goat's wool, 1st class.
The following woollen substances are used in the Punjab:—
a.

Pashun, or shawl wool, properly so called, being a downy substance, found next the skin and below the thick hair of the Thibetan goat. It is of three colours: white, drab, and dark lavender (Tûsha).

The best kind is produced in the semi-Chinese Provinces of Turfan Kicnar, and exported viâ Yarkand to Kashmere. All the finest shawls are made of this wool, but as the Maharajah of Kashmere keeps a strong monopoly of the article, the Punjab shawl-weavers cannot procure it, and have to be concent with an inferior kind of Pashum produced at Châthân, and exported viâ Leh to Umritzur, Nûrpûr, Loodianah, Jelalpûr, and other shawl-weaving towis of the Punjab. The price of White Pashum in Kashmere is for unclcaned, 3s. to 4s. per lb.; ditto cleaned, 6s. to 7s. per lb. Of Tûsha ditto, uncleaned, 2s to 3s. a lb.; cleaned, from 5s to 7s.

b.The fleece of the Dumba sheep of Kabul and Peshawur.—This is sometimes called Kabuli Pashum. It is used in the manufacture of the finer sorts of chogas, an outer-robe or cloak with sleeves, worn by Affghans and other Mahomedans of the Western frontier.
c.Wahab Shâhi, or Kirmani Wool.—The wool of a sheep found in Kirman, a tract of country in the south of Persia, by the Persian Gulf. It is used for the manufacture of a spurious kind of shawl cloth, and for adulterating the texture of Kashmere shawls. Specimens of this wool will be found in the collection.
d.The hair of a goat common in Kabul and Peshawur, called Pat, from which a texture called Pattu is made.
e.The woolly hair of the camel.—From this a coarser kind of choga is made.
f.The wool of the country sheep of the Plains.—Regarding the production of wool in the Himalayan or Sub-Himalayan portion of the Punjab, the last year's Revenue Report states that "there can be no doubt that the valleys of the Sutlej, Ravee, Chandrabaga (or Chenab), Namisukh, and other tributaries of the Indus, supply grazing grounds not to be surpassed in richness and suitableness in any part of the world. The population inhabiting them are chiefly pastoral, but owing to sloth and ignorance the wool they produce is but small in quantity, full of dirt, and ill-cared for in every way." The government of the Punjab have made efforts to improve the breed by the importation of Merino rams, but hitherto with little success. However, a truss of Merino wool produced at Huzara, a hill district to the north-west of the Punjab, and sent to England in 1860, was there valued at 1s. 6d. per lb.