V

In the record of an expedition made on foot, Williams gives a description of a settlement named Safotulafai. They could more easily, he said, have imagined themselves in an English park than a "heathen village." A broad road of hard sand ran through it; a spacious building for their public business and amusements occupied the centre; and, at various distances, there were lawns of greensward, which were appropriated to club fights, fencing, wrestling, and boxing-matches. The pathway was overshadowed by the wide-spreading branches of the tamanue, and other gigantic trees, while the neat houses of the inhabitants were partially concealed by the foliage of the breadfruit-trees and bananas, among which they were embowered. This settlement was kept in excellent order, and had an air of respectability which could not have been looked for among a people "in other respects so barbarous."

In the course of another journey he mentions having passed through one of the nun devolo, or devil's villages. He thought, when first he heard the expression, that it was an opprobrious term. Upon inquiry, however, he found that it was not so understood by the natives; for, on asking a man who had not joined the Christian party, whether he was a "son of the Word," page 41he replied, "No, I am a man of the devil." This, with other circumstances convinced Mr. Williams that the term was used simply for the sake of distinction, and not for reproach.

On reaching his destination on this occasion, Malava, they were conducted to the "government house," and here they were met by the chief, who, after shaking hands, instead of rubbing noses, withdrew. He was rather tall, about the middle age, and of sedate appearance. "As he wore a white shirt, a finely wrought mat as a substitute for trousers, and a hat, he presented a more civilized appearance than most of his brethren." After about a quarter of an hour's absence, he returned, accompanied by about a hundred men and women, the former carrying pigs and vegetables, and the others pieces of cloth; and, having seated himself, he said, "I feel highly honoured by a visit from so great a chief, a chief of religion. I am now a worshipper of Jehovah; my heart and thoughts are in love with the good word, and my sincere desire is, that speedily it may spread through the land, and that not a tanata-devolo, a devil's man, mayremain." He then begged Williams's acceptance of the food, which had been prepared in expectation of his coming.

Williams expressed his thanks, and the gratification with which he had heard the sentiments; adding, as he did not come there to obtain property of which they had plenty at home, he would only accept a little of the food, and three or four pieces of the cloth, for the purpose of showing their friends in England what clothing they wore, but the rest he must allow him to return. To this the chief would not listen. Williams therefore sent the food on board the vessel, and presented the cloth to Makea. Before the meeting terminated, the chief and people of another settlement, about three miles distant, came to beg for a missionary; and two messengers from a large settlement, about six miles farther, on the same errand, and also to solicit the honour of a visit. Although, said Williams, the spirit was both willing and delighted, the flesh was too weak to allow him to gratify them.

After visiting Manono and Apia, where there was not a single white man then resident, John Williams again quitted the Navigators Islands.