On the 22d of July, 1768, I went on board the ship, Endeavour, then lying in the Galleons Reach, in the river Thames: on the 3d of August arrived in the Downs; and then failed for Plymouth Sound, where we anchored on the 14th, and took on board some more seamen, with a few marines. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Green, with their attendants, also joined us at this port; and our number was then increased to ninety six. Having taken in some more stores and guns, and made a few necessary alterations in the ship, on the 26th of August we sailed from Plymouth, with the wind at N. N. W. but it did not continue long in that quarter, but changed to S. W. where it held till the 2d of September, soon after which, we discovered Cape Ortugal. From this time, till the 4th of October, we had variable winds, and then we saw Cape Finistere at about ten leagues distance.

We continued our course, and met with no material occurrence till the 12th; then we discovered Puerto Santo, about nine leagues off; soon after we saw the island of Madeira; and, on the 13th, in the morning, anchored in Fonchiale Bay.

This country is very mountainous, yet it is cultivated to the very tops of the mountains; and, being covered with vines, citrons, oranges, and many other fine fruit-trees, it appears like one wide, extended; beautiful, garden. During our stay on this island we resided at Fonchiale, which is the capital, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander lodged at the house of the British. consul, W. Cheap, esq. and made several excursions into the country.

A great part of the best provisions used on this island are imported from England and other parts of Europe, especially such as are eaten at dinner; from whence also they import most of their utensils and wearing-apparel; so that many of the necessaries of life bear a very high price amongst them.

While the ship lay in this harbour, we had the misfortune of losing Mr. Ware, the chief-mate, who was a very honest worthy man, and one of our best seamen. His death was occasioned by an unlucky accident which happened to him while he stood in the boat to see one of the anchors slipped. The buoy-rope happening to entangle one of his legs, he was drawn overboard and drowned before we could lend him any assistance.

Having taken in a supply of water, wines, and other necessaries, on the 19th of September we proceeded on our voyage, with the wind at E. S. E. and on the 22d saw the islands of Salvages, at about two leagues and a half distance. They lie between Madeira and the Canaries, are small and uninhabited.

On the 23d we fell in with the trade-winds at N. E. and on the same day discovered the peak of Teneriffe.

On the 24th we sailed between that peak and the grand Canary islands. In our passage we saw some land birds, and caught two of them, which were very much like our water wag-tail.

On the 29th, we had a view of the island of Bona Vista, at about four leagues distance.

Nothing material occurred from the 29th to the 7th of October; then we had variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air greatly affected all our iron utensils. We caught two sea swallows, and several curious marine animals, of the molusca tribe, such as sea-worms, star-fish, and sea urchins.

On the 21st, we reached the S. E. trade wind, and continued our course without any remarkable occurrence till the 8th of November; then we discovered land at about eight leagues distance, and spoke with the crew of a Portugueze fishing vessel, of whom Mr. Banks bought a great quantity of fish, among which were dolphins and breams, which afforded much speculation to our naturalists. After having left the vessel, we stood in for the land, which proved to be the Brazils; and coasted along the shore till the 13th, and then sailed into the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, which lies in latitude 22° 56' south, and longitude 42° 45' west; but before we arrived in the harbour, the captain had sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, and the chief mate, in the pinnace, to the viceroy, to obtain a pilot; however, as the wind was fair, the captain ventured to continue sailing on, and was assisted by signals from the forts.

The viceroy detained the lieutenant and the mate, and sent back the pinnace with three of his own officers in it (of which one was a colonel) but no pilot. The colonel told us, that our officers would only be detained till the ship should be examined, according to custom: we therefore stood forward into the harbour, and anchored near the north end of Ilhos dos Scobros, or Snakes Island; but the colonel would not permit any of us to go ashore.

Our lieutenant had been instructed to evade answering any questions the Portugueze might ask him respecting our destination; or at least to answer them with reserve: the captain thought such questions would be impertinent, as our vessel was a ship of war; and the lieutenant observed these directions.

The viceroy held a council, the result of which was, to prohibit any person coming on shore from our ship; but they condescended to order all necessary page 4supplies to be sent to us. We were displeased on receiving this intelligence, as we had expected to have met with agreeable entertainment on shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander appeared much chagrined at their disappointment: but, notwithstanding all the viceroy's precautions, we determined to gratify our curiosity, in some measure, and having obtained a sufficient knowledge of the river and harbour, by the surveys that we had made of the country, we frequently, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting ourselves down into a boat by a rope; and, driving away with the tide till we were out of hearing, we then rowed to some unfrequented part of the shore, where we landed, and made, excursions up into the country, though not so far as we could have wished to have done. The morning after we went ashore, my eyes were feasted with the pleasing prospects that opened to my view on every hand. I soon discovered a hedge in which were many very curious plants in bloom, and all of them quite new to me. There were so many, that I even loaded myself with them. We found also many curious plants in the fallading that was sent to us; and desired the people that brought it to procure us, if possible, all the different sorts that grew upon the, island.

We had plenty of fish from the markets every day, of which they are furnished with a great variety.

We often picked off some curious molusca from the surface of the sea; and also land insects of several kinds alive, which floated round the ship upon the water.

The country, adjacent to the city of Rio de Janeiro, is mountainous, full of wood, and but a very little part of it appears to be cultivated. The soil near the river is a kind of loam, mixt with sand; but farther up in the country we found a fine black mould. All the tropical fruits, such as melons, oranges, mangoes, lemons, limes, cocoa nuts and plantains, are to be met with here in great plenty. The air, it seems, is but seldom extremely hot, as they have a breeze of wind from the sea every morning; and generally a land wind at night^*.

On the 7th of December, 1768, our necessary provisions, and other supplies, having been taken on board, we left the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, coasting along the Brazils, and met with nothing worthy of note till the 22d of the same month, except, that in coming out of the harbour, Mr. Flowers, an experienced seaman, fell from the main shrouds into the sea, and was drowned before we could reach him.

On the 22d, we saw a great many birds of the procellaria genus, in latitude' 39° 37' S. and longitude 49° 16' W. and we also met with shoals of porpoises of a' very singular species.

On the 23d of December, we observed an eclipse of the moon; and about seven in the morning a bright cloud in the west, from which a stream of fire proceeded: it bore away to the westward, and about two minutes after we heard two loud explosions like that of a cannon; and then the cloud soon disappeared.

On the 24th, we caught a logger-head tortoise, which weighed one hundred and fifty pounds; and shot several birds, one of which was an albatros, that measured, from the tip of one wing to the other, nine feet one inch; and from the beak to the tail two feet one inch and a half. Some time after, we met with some birds of the same kind that measured fourteen feet from the tips of the wings.

The thermometer, in the middle of the day, was from 66 to 69; and in the evening 62, when the air was not so dry.

On the 29th, we saw several parcels of rock weed; and, from this time to the 30th, the weather was very unsettled; the wind sometimes blowing very hard; at others only a moderate gale; and then quite calm.

For several evenings, swarms of butterflies, moths, and other insects, flew about the rigging, which we apprehended had been blown to us from the shore. Thousands of them settled upon the vessel; Mr. Banks ordered the men to gather them page 6up; and, after selecting such as he thought proper, the rest were thrown overboard; and he gave the men some bottles of rum for their trouble.

On the 31st, we had much thunder, lightening, and rain, and saw several whales: we saw also some birds about the size of a pigeon, with white breasts and grey beaks.

On the 4th of January, 1769, we saw a cloud which we took for Pepy's Island, and made toward it till we were convinced of our mistake. The air at this time was cold and dry, and we had frequent squalls of wind.

On the 6th, we saw several penguins, with many other sea birds; and, on the 7th, had an exceeding hard gale of wind from S. W. in latitude 51° 25' S. and longitude 62° 44' W. We supposed ourselves not far from Falkland's Islands, but, not knowing their longitude, we could not so readily find them.

From several circumstances which occurred on the 8th, it was concluded that we had sailed between Falkland's Islands and the main land; and were in hopes of touching at the former place, from which we designed to have forwarded some letters to Europe.

On the 11th, we discovered Terra del Fuego; but, having contrary winds, and being apprehensive of danger from the foulness of the ground, which we discovered by sounding, we kept out at sea.

On the 16th, the wind changing in our favour, we approached the land; and at length anchored in Port Maurice's Bay, situated in latitude 54°. 44' S. and longitude 66° 15' W. Some of our principal people went ashore, and found several pieces of brown European broad cloth, in a hut that had been deserted by the natives. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected a great number of plants, shot several birds, and returned to the ship much pleased with their adventure.

On the 17th we left Port Maurice's Bay; and, at about one o'clock in the afternoon, anchored in the bay of Good Success.

Plate I. Woman & Child, natives of Terra del fuego, in the dress of that Country.

We had not been long arrived before some Indians appeared on the beach at the head of the bay; the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went on shore, and soon after returned on board with three of them, whom we cloathed in jackets; gave them some bread and beef, part of which they ate, and carried the remainder with them ashore: We gave them also some rum and brandy; but, after tasting it, they refused to drink any more, intimating, by signs, that it burnt their throats. This circumstance may serve to corroborate the opinion of those, who think that water is the most natural, and best drink for mankind, as well as for other animals.

One of the Indians made several long orations to the rest; but they were utterly unintelligible to every one of us. Another of them feeing the leathern cover of a globe lie in the cabin, sound means to steal it, and secrete it under his garment, which was made of a skin of some animal, and carried it ashore, undiscovered; where he had no sooner arrived, than he shewed his prize to the very person it belonged to, and seemed to exult upon the occasion, placing it upon his head, and was highly delighted with it.

The natives make a very uncouth and savage appearance, [see pl. I.] having broad flat faces, small black eyes, low foreheads, and noses much like those of negroes, with wide nostrils, high cheeks, large mouths, and small teeth. Their hair, which is black and streight, hangs over their foreheads and ears, which; most of them had smeared with brown and red paint; but, like the rest of the original inhabitants of America, they have no beard. None of them seemed above five feet ten inches high; but their bodies are thick and robust, though their limbs are small. They wear a bunch of yarn made of guanica's^* wool upon their heads, which, as well as their hair, hangs down over their foreheads. They also wear the skins of guanicas and of seals, wrapped round their shoulders, sometimes leaving the right arm uncovered. Both men and women wear necklaces, [see pl. XXVI. fig. 14] and other ornaments made of a small pearly perriwincle, very ingeniously plaited in rows with a kind of grass. We saw also an ornament-made of shells,

^* An animal something like a sleep but of the size of a mule, and has a thick fleece.

page 8which was ten yards long The Shells that composed it were of several sizes; the largest, about the size of a damascene stone, were placed at one end, from whence they gradually lessened to the other end of the string, where the shells were not bigger than a pepper corn. The larger ornaments are worn about their waists. Many of both sexes were painted with white, red, and brown, colours, in different parts of their bodies; and had also various dotted lines pricked on their faces. The women wear a flap of skin tied round their loins; and have also a small string round each ancle: they carry their children on their backs, and are generally employed in domestic drudgery.

These poor Indians live in a village [see pl. II.] on the south side of the bay, behind a hill; the number of their huts is about thirteen, and they contain near fifty people, who seem to be. all the inhabitants of this dreary part of the island, where it is very cold, even in the midst of summer.

Their huts are made of the branches of trees, covered with guanica and feal skins; and, at best, are but wretched habitations for human beings to dwell in.

Their food is the flesh of seals and shell-fish, particularly muscles, of which we have seen some very large.

They use bows and arrows with great dexterity. The former are made of a species of wood somewhat like our beech; and the latter of a light yellow wood feathered at one end, and acuated at the other with pieces of clear white chrystal, chipped very ingeniously to a point. [See pl. XXVI. fig. 26.]

There are dogs upon this island two feet high, with sharp ears.

Having seen several rings and buttons upon the natives, we concluded that they must have had some communication with the Indians in the Streights of Magellan; but they appeared to be unacquainted with Europeans.

The Bay of Good Success is about three in extent, from east to west; two miles in breadth is defended from east Staten-land. Near the shore it is page break

Plate II. View of a village in the Bay of Good success in the Islands of Terra del Fuego.

page 9very foul, and full of rocks; abounding with great quantities of sea weed. The soundings are regular from fourteen, to four fathoms; and, at the bottom of the bay, there is a fine sandy beach.

During our stay on this island, the naturalists collected a great many plants, and other curiosities, most of which are non-descript: but an unfortunate accident happened in one of their excursions; Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Buchan, with several attendants, two of whom were negroes, went far up into the country, and at length ascended the hills, which they found covered with snow, and the air upon them so intensely cold, that they staid but a short time. On their return, they missed their way, and wandered about for a considerable time, not knowing whither they went; but at length they found their former track. While the naturalists were searching for plants upon the hill, two negroes and a sailor, who were left to guard the liquor and provision, having made too free with the brandy-bottle, were rendered incapable of keeping pace with the rest of the company, who made all possible speed, hoping to have reached the ship before the day closed in upon them, dreading the consequence of being exposed in a strange land, and an inhospitable clime; but time, that waits for no man, brought on the night, which put an end to their hopes, and excited the most alarming apprehensions: Being out of breath, fatigued, and dispirited, and almost benumbed with cold, particularly Dr. Solander, insomuch that he was unable to walk, and was carried near two hours on their shoulders; and it was thought he would not have survived the perils of the ensuing night. In this hapless situation, they held a consultation on what was best to be attempted for their preservation, till the light of the morning should return; and determined, if possible, to kindle a fire, which they happily effected, gathering together some wood, and, by the help of their fowling pieces, and some paper, setting it on fire. The cold was so intense, that they found it would not be safe to lie down, left they should fall asleep, and be frozen to death; wherefore they walked round it all night. The three men who were left behind, being tired, fat down in the woods, and fell asleep, but one of them providentially soon awoke, started up, and, being apprehensive of the imminent danger they were in, attempted to rouse his companions, but they were too far sunk into the sleep of death to be recovered. In this forlorn situation the man could not expect to survive them long, and therefore he fled for his life, haliooing as he went along, in page 10hopes that some of the company would hear him, which, after wandering some time in a pathless wilderness, they happily did, and answered. him as loud as their enfeebled voices would admit: Overjoyed at the event, he resumed fresh courage, and, making toward the part from which the found proceeded, at length came up with them. Touched with sympathy for his companions, he told the company of the condition in which he left them; and they were disposed to have yielded them assistance, but, it being almost dark, there was not any probability of finding them, and the attempt would have been attended with the risque of their own lives; they therefore declined it. However, the next morning, after break of day, they dispatched the man in quest of his companions, whom he at length found frozen to death; but the dog that had been with them all the night had survived them: he found him fitting close by his master's corpse, and seemed reluctant to leave it; but at length the dog forsook it, and went back to the company; they all set out immediately towards the ship, which they reached about 11.o'clock in the.: forenoon, to our great joy, as we had despaired of their return.

Having furnished ourselves with wood and water, and let down our guns and lumber below deck, to be better prepared for the high gales which we expected in going round Cape Horn; on the 2lst of January, 1769, we weighed anchor, and left the Bay of Good Success, and proceeded on our voyage through the Straits of Le Maire, which are formed by Cape Antonio on Staten-land, and Cape Vincent on Terra del Fuego to the north; and on the south by Cape Bartholomew on Statenland, and a high promontory on Terra del Fuego, passing between them, and are about, nine leagues long and seven broad.

The land on both sides, particularly Staten-land, affords a most dismal prospect, being made up chiefly of barren rocks and tremendous precipices, covered with snow, and uninhabited, forming one of those natural views which human nature can scarce behold without shuddering. — How amazingly diversified are the works of the Deity within the narrow limits of this globe we inhabit, which, compared with the vast aggregate of systems that compose the universe, appears but a dark speck in the creation! A curiosity, perhaps, equal to Solomon's, though accompanied with less wisdom than was possessed by the Royal Philosopher, induced some of page 11us to quit our native land, to investigate the heavenly bodies minutely in distant regions, as well as to trace the signatures of the Supreme Power and Intelligence throughout several species of animals, and different genera of plants in the vegetable system, "from the cedar that is in Lebanon, even unto the hyssop that springeth out of the wall:" and the more we investigate, the more we ought to admire the power, wisdom, and goodness, of the Great Superintendant of the universe; which attributes are amply displayed throughout all his works; the smallest object, seen through the microscope, declares its origin to be divine, as well as those larger ones which the unassisted eye is capable of contemplating: but to proceed.

On the 25th, we saw Cape Horn, at about five leagues distance, which, contrary to our expectations, we doubled with as little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, and being within one mile of the shore, we had a more distinct view of this coast, than perhaps any former voyagers have had on this ocean.

The point of the Cape is very low; and at the S. E. extremity there are several islands, called, by the French, Isles d'Hermitage; and near it are several ragged rocks. The Cape is in latitude 55° 48' S. and longitude 67° 40'` W. We sounded in fifty-five fathom, and sound round stones, and broken shells.

On the 30th, we reached to latitude 60°2' S. and longitude 73° 5' W. variation 24° 54' E. This was our highest southern latitude; and from thence we altered our course, steering W. N. W. with but little variation, having pleasant weather, and short nights, until the 16th of February, when we had hard gales from W. by S. S. by W. and S. and we continued our course N. W. till the 10th; between that time and the 20th, we had very copious dews, like small showers of rain.

On the 21st, we saw a great number of tropic and egg birds, and shot two of the former, which had a very beauteous plumage, being a fine white, mingled with a most lively red: their tails were composed of two long red feathers; and their beaks were of a deep red. We found ourselves at this time in latitude 25° 21' S. and longitude 120° 20' W. having fair weather, with a dry, serene, and salubrious air.

Continuing our course N. westerly, between the Dolphin's first and second track, on the 4th of April, about three o'clock in the afternoon we discovered land; and after two hours failing we approached near to it. It is a flat island, extending a great length from E. to W. describing the form of a crescent; and has a sand-bank joined to it, on which the surf ran very high. In the middle of the island, there is a large salt lagoon, or lake; and at the east end of it are many palm trees. We saw clouds of smoke ascend from different parts, proceeding, as we apprehended, from fires kindled by the natives, and designed as signals to us. Night came on before we could discover the west end of the island; and not knowing but there might be more islands, we lay-to all night, and the next morning we saw another in latitude 18° 23', which, on account of a great salt lagoon in the middle of it, we called Lagoon-Isle: Before noon we made another low island, which we called Thumb-cap Island. It stretched a long way, and is made up of several parcels of land joined together by reefs: it has also a lagoon inclosed with a reef, upon which we discovered many canoes; some having ten people in them, and others a lesser number. As we failed along, the natives followed us, some on the reef, others in canoes, and seemed desirous to have an intercourse with us; but though we beckoned to them, they would not come off. They appeared to be very stout men; their complexion almost black, with short hair, and quite naked, having long lances, or poles, in their hands. Some of them waded up to the neck in water to look at us, but they did not discover any hostile intentions. Their canoes had out-riggers, with mat-fails: and when we put away from the land one of them followed us.

Upon these islands we saw a variety of verdant trees, amongst which were some palms; and upon the coast, rocks of coral appeared above water. We discovered some of their huts, and several fires burning around them. The land formed a large semicircular bay, and the reef before it the fame figure; and the water was as smooth as a mill-pond, and abounded with flying-fish; but, to our surprise, we could not reach the bottom of it with 130 fathom of line, at one mile distance from the shore.

This day we also discovered another low island, which we called Chain Island: It is of an oval figure, consisting of a ridge of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and had a lagoon in the middle of it. These islands were dedicated to the Royal Society.

In the morning of the 10th, we saw Osnabrug Island, bearing N. W. by W. half W. about six leagues distant, and, leaving it to the northward, at noon we discovered George's Island from the main-top mast head, and flood toward it.

The 12th, the sea being mostly calm in the forenoon, we could get very little nearer land; but many of the Indians came off to us in canoes (one of which was double, and had much carved work upon it) bringing with them cocoa nuts, and apples, to truck for nails, buttons, and beads. These canoes were but just wide enough for one person to fit in the breadth: to prevent them from oversetting, they place out riggers, upon the top of which is fixed a bamboe fishing rod. The people in the canoes were of a pale, tawny, complexion, and had long black hair. They seemed to be very good-natured, and not of a covetous disposition; giving us a couple of cocoa nuts, or a basket of apples, for a button, or a nail.

While we lay before these islands, we had squalls of wind, some calms, and heavy showers of rain. Toward night we opened the N. W. point, and discovered the island named by the Dolphin's people, York Island, and called by the natives, as we afterwards learned, Eimayo. A breeze springing up, we lay off and on all that night; and, on the 13th, we made the island of Otaheite, called by the Dolphin's people George's Island, which is opposite to York Island. We entered Port Royal harbour, called by the natives Owarrowarrow, and anchored in nine fathom water, within half a mile of the shore. The land appeared as uneven as a piece of crumpled paper, being divided irregularly into hills and valleys; but a beautiful verdure covered both, even to the tops of the highest peaks. A great number of the natives came off to us in canoes, and brought with them bananas, cocoas, bread fruit apples, and some pigs; but they were errant thieves; and, while I was busied in the forenoon in trucking with them for some of their cloth, (an account of which will be given hereafter,) one of them pilfered an earthen vessel out of my cabin. It page 14was very diverting to see the different emotions which the natives expressed at the manoeuvres of our ship. They were very social, and several of them came on board; some of them remembered such of our people as had been there in the Dolphin, and seemed highly pleased at our arrival. The captain and Mr. Banks went on shore; but they returned greatly disappointed, as they could not find the principal inhabitants, and perceived that many of their houses had been taken down since the Dolphin left them.

On the 14th, in the morning, a great number of the natives came to us, round a reef point towards the south, and were very troublesome, attempting to. steal every thing they could lay their hands upon: they brought with them only two or three hogs, which they would not exchange for any thing but hatchets. Among the rest who visited us, there were some people of distinction in double canoes: their cloaths, carriage, and behaviour evinced their superiority. I never beheld statelier men, [see pl. III.] having a pleasant countenance, large black eyes, black hair, and white teeth. They behaved very courteously, and expressed some uneasiness at the conduct of the rest. We entertained them in the cabin, and then bent our sails, taking them with us for guides, till we had doubled the point, where we found a fine bay to anchor in. In the afternoon, a small party of us made an excursion into the country, and the inhabitants followed us in great numbers. At length, being fatigued, we sat down under the shade of some lofty trees, the undulation of whose leaves rendered it very cool and pleasant. The high cocoas, and the low branching fruit trees, formed an agreeable contrast; while the cloud-topt hills, appearing between them, added to the natural grandeur of the prospect. The inhabitants stood gaping around us while we feasted on the cocoanut milk, which afforded us a pleasing repast.

On the 15th, in the morning, several of the chiefs, one of which was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, and brought us some hogs; we presented them with a sheet and some trinkets in return; but some of them took the liberty of stealing the top of the lightening-chain. We went ashore, and pitched the markee: Mr. Banks, the captain, and myself, took a walk in the woods, and were afterwards joined by Mr. Hicks, and Mr. Green. While we were walking, page break

Plate III. A Native of otaheite, in the dress of his Country

page 15and enjoying the rural scene, we heard the report of some fire-arms, and presently saw the natives fleeing into the woods like frighted fawns, carrying with them their little moveable. Alarmed at this unexpected event, we immediately quitted the wood, and made to the side of the river, where we saw several of our men, who had been left to guard the tent, pursuing the natives, who were terrified to the last degree; some of them skulked behind the bushes, and others leaped into the river. Hearing the shot rattle amongst the branches of the trees over my head, I thought it not safe to continue there any longer, and fled to the tent, where I soon learned the cause of the catastrophe.

A centinel being off his guard, one of the natives snatched a-musket out of his hand, which occasioned the fray. A boy, a midshipman, was the commanding officer, and, giving orders to fire, they obeyed with the greatest glee imaginable, as if they had been shooting at wild ducks, killed one stout man, and wounded many others. What a pity, that such brutality should be exercised by civilized people upon unarmed ignorant Indians!

When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was highly displeased, saying, "If we quarreled with those Indians, we should not agree with angels;" and he did all he could to accommodate the difference, going across the river, and, through the mediation of an old man, prevailed on many of the natives to come over to us, bearing plantain-trees, which is a signal of peace amongst them; and, clapping their hands to their breasts, cried Tyau, which signifies friendship. They sat down by us; sent for cocoa nuts, and we drank the milk with them. They laughed heartily, and were very social, more so than could have been expected, considering what they had suffered in the late skirmish.— Have we not reason to conclude, that their dispositions are very flexible; and that resentment, with them, is a short-lived passion?

The horizon not being clear, we could not make any astronomical observations; and therefore did not attempt to go round the point to the other bay. The weather, however, since we arrived here, has generally been clear, with now and then a flight shower of rain, and the wind E. N. E.

Mr. Buchan was seized with an epileptic fit this morning, and remained insensible all day.

On the 16th, but few of the Indians came to us in their canoes, being, we apprehended, somewhat alarmed at what had happened the day before. We got the ship moored, and Mr. Banks and the captain went ashore to confer with the natives, and to prevail on them to traffic with us again.

On the 17th, early in the morning, Mr. Buchan died, and we went out in the pinnace and long boat to the offing, and buried him.

Two of the chiefs came on board this morning, bringing with them a present of hogs, fowls, plantains, bananas, cocoas, bread-fruit and a fort of yams. At this season the cocoas are young, many of them yielding a quart of fine milk, and the shell is eatable, but they have no kernel.

We pitched one of the ship's tents ^†, and went into the valley, where an Indian invited me to his hut, and sent his son up a tall cocoa-tree to gather nuts: he climbed it very dexterously, by tying his feet together with a withe, then clasping the tree, and vaulting up very swiftly. They admired every thing they saw about me, and I gave them a few trinkets.

On the 18th, in the night, we lay on shore, and were much incommoded with a species of flies with which the island swarms; insomuch that, at dinner time, it was one person's employ to beat them off with a feather fly-flap, the handle of which is made of a hard brown wood, rudely carved, and somewhat resembles a human figure.

Plate IV. Venus Fort, Erected by the Endeavors people to secure themselves during the Observation of the transit of Venus at Otaheite.

On the 20th, one of their chiefs, named Tubora Tumaida, whom we called Lycurgus, with his wife and son, came to visit and dine with us: While we were at dinner, one of his attendants made up a dish with some garbage which they brought with them, mixing it with cocoa nut liquor in a shell, and it tasted like sowens^‡. This seemed to be a favourite dish with them, but we could not relish it They have also a kind of food like wheat flour in appearance, of which Lycurgus brought a small quantity, and mixed that also with cocoa nut liquor; and, dropping two or three hot stones into it, he stirred it about till it formed a strong jelly: on tasting it we found it had an agreeable flavour, not unlike very good blanc-mange. These people make up various kinds of paste, one of which, called Makey Poe Poe, is made of fermented bread-fruit, and a substance called Meiya, mixt with cocoa-nut milk, and baked, tastes very sweet. In making these pastes, they use a pestle made or a hard black stone, a kind of basaltes, with which they beat them in a wooden trough. See pl. XIII. fig. 10.

The mode of dressing their food too is very singular: they make a hole in the ground, and, placing stones in it, kindle a fire upon them; and when they are sufficiently heated, they sweep off the ashes, and then lay their food upon them. At their meals the married women ate apart from the men, and we could not prevail on them to join us. The men, especially, seemed to like the manner of our eating, and handled knives and forks very well. Hogs and fowls are not very plentiful amongst them yams, and the best bananas, are very scarce in this island; the natives bring down but few of either sort, and eat of them very sparingly. When the natives want to make a fire, they take a piece of light wood, make a groove in it, and rub along that with another piece till the small dust catches fire. This is very laborious, and requires a considerable time to effect it.

On the 21st, we went round the point, and met with Lycurgus sitting on the ground, with his wife by his side, having a canoe covering, which he brought there on purpose to be near us: he gave us a hearty welcome; and, to divert us, ordered two of his boys to play on their flutes, while another sang a sort of melan-

^‡ A kind of flummery made of oatmeal.

page 18choly ditty, very well suited to the music. Lycurgus is a middle-aged man, of a chearful, though sedate, countenance, with thick black frizzled hair, and a beard of the same kind: his behaviour and aspect had something of natural majesty in them. I shewed him some of my drawings, which he greatly admired, and pronounced their names as soon as he saw them. These people have a peculiar method of staining their garments: a girl that was present shewed me the whole process, which is as follows:—She took the young leaves of a convolvulus unsoliated, and then broke off the tops, of a small fig, of a reddish hue, and squeezed out of it a milky fluid, which she spread on a leaf, rubbing it gently to mix it with, the juice of the leaf, and then it became red; this she soaked up with the leaf of a solanum, and then daubed it upon some cloth: the colour is good, but whether it will stand, I am unable to determine. They make a variety of neat basket-work [see a figure of one of their baskets, pl. XIII. fig. 6.] for holding of their colours; the simplest of all is made of the leaf of a cocoa-nut, which they plait together, and gather up on each side: they also make a kind of bonnet [see pl. VIII. fig. 4.] of the same materials. They do not seem very fond of their cloaths, of which they have a variety of colours, but wear them sometimes one way, and sometimes another, as their humour is. Persons of distinction amongst them wrap a number of pieces of cloth about them; and that which is of a carmine colour is only worn by the superior class. The people in general are very fond of ear-rings, and will exchange for them what they deem the most valuable of their effects. Some of their ear-rings [see pl. XIII. fig. 13 and 14] are made of mother-of-pearl cut into various figures, which are tied to their ears by human hair, curiously plaited by the women. They also tie three pearls together with hair, and hang them on their ears. [See ibid. fig. 26.]

The cloth, worn by the natives of this island, is of a very singular kind, being made of the bark of a small tree which contains a glutinous juice, some of which we saw in our excursions. The mode of manufacturing it is very simple, though very laborious, and is mostly performed by women. After the bark has been soaked in water for a few days, they lay it upon a flat piece of timber, and beat it out as thin as they think proper with a kind of mallet of an oblong square, [see pl. XIII. fig. 5.] each side of which is cut into small grooves of four different sizes: they begin with that side where they are the largest, and end with the finest, which page 19leaving longitudinal stripes upon the cloth, makes it resemble paper. These people have garments also made of matting, [see pl. IX.] which are chiefly worn in rainy weather.

The rates, or terms, on which we trafficked with the natives, were a spike for a small pig; a smaller for a fowl; a hatchet for a hog; and twenty cocoa-nuts, or bread-fruit, for a middling-sized nail.

When the natives beckon to any person at a distance, contrary to our mode they wave their hands downwards; and when they meet a friend, or relation, whom they have not seen for some time, they affect to cry for joy, but it seems to be entirely Ceremonial.

The tide rises and falls scarce a foot in the harbour; but the surf runs high. The inhabitants are very expert swimmers, and will remain in the water a long time, even with their hands full. They keep their water on shore in large bamboos, and in them they also carry up salt-water into the country. The boys drag for fish with a sort of net made of convolvulus leaves; and sometimes catch them with hooks made of mother of pearl oysters, large pinna marina, and other shells; and the shapes of them are very singular. They have also some made of wood, which are very large; [see figures of several of them, pl. XIII. fig. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25.] They fifth without bait, but the fish are attracted the soonest by such hooks as are made of glittering shells. When they throw their hooks, they row their canoes as fact as possible: sometimes they make use of a decoy made of the backs of cowries, and other shells, which are perforated, and tied together in the shape of a fish, making a head to it with a small cowrey; and the tail is formed of grafts ingeniously plaited. At a little distance under this decoy, hangs the hook: [see pl. XIII. fig. 15 and 25.] To sink their lines, they make use of bone, or a piece of spar, which they sometimes carve. See ibid. fig. 16, 17.

The chief food of the natives is the bread-fruit and bananas, which they peel and scrape with a sharp shell; but they eat sparingly of flesh, and of fish in general; but of the latter, sometimes alive, or raw; and, as they have no salt, they dip their meat into salt water. The natives, it seems, are very subject to the itch and other page 20cutaneous eruptions, which is the more to be wondered at as their diet consists principally of vegetables. They often move from one part to another, in their canoes, carrying with them all their household stuff. Sometimes they deep all night in their canoes^*, but those used for that purpose are made double, and have thatched awnings over them.

Tobiah, Obereah's favourite, being at dinner with us, and not seeming to like our provision, which was pork-pie, remembering that we had a large cuttle-fish, we ordered it to be brought; Tubora Tumaida coming in the mean time, although he said his belly was full, immediately seized on it as if it had been a dainty morsel, and, with another man, ate much of it quite raw; and having the rest roasted, he ate the greatest part of it; the remainder he put into two cocoa nuts, and sent it home with great care; so that, to all appearance, they value this fish, as much as some Englishmen do turtle, or a haunch of venison. When this fish was dressed it ate like stewed oysters, but not so tender. I have been told that this fish makes excellent soup. These people also are fond of dog's-flesh, and reckon it delicious food, which we discovered by their bringing the leg of a dog roasted to fell. Mr. Banks ate a piece of it, and admired it much. He went out immediately and bought one, and gave it to some Indians to kill and dress it in their manner, which they did accordingly. After having held the dog's mouth down to the pit of his stomach till he was stifled, they made a parcel of stones hot upon the ground, laid him upon them, and singed off the hair, then scraped his skin with a cocoa shell, and rubbed it with coral; after which they took out the entrails, laid them all carefully on the stones, and after they were broiled ate them with great gout; nor did some of our people scruple to partake with them of this indelicate repast. Having scraped and washed the dog's body clean, they prepared an oven of hot stones, covered them with bread-fruit leaves, and laid it upon them, with liver, heart and lungs, pouring a coco-nut full of blood upon them, covering them too with more leaves and hot stones, and inclosed the whole with earth patted down very close to keep in the heat. It was about four hours in the oven, and at night it was served up for supper: I ate a little of it; it had the taste of coarse beef, and a strong disagreeable smell; but Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, commended it highly, saying it was the sweetest meat they had ever tasted; but the rest of our people could not be prevailed on to ate any of it. We have invented a new dish,

^* The women sometimes row the canoes.

page 21which is as much disliked by the natives, as any of theirs is by us. Here is a species of rats, of which there are great numbers in this island; we caught some of them, and had them fried; most of the gentlemen in the bell-tent ate of them, and commended them much; and some of the inferior officers ate them in a morning for breakfast.

On the 27th, we saw a very odd ceremony performed; Tiropoa, one of Tubora Tumaida's wives, after weeping, and expressing some emotions of sorrow, took a shark's tooth from under her cloaths, and struck it against her head several times, which produced a copious discharge of blood; then, lamenting most bitterly, she articulated some words in a mournful tone, and covered the blood with some pieces of cloth; and, having bled about a pint, she gathered up as much of it as she could, threw it into the sea, and then assumed a chearful countenance, as if nothing had happened. This, it seems, is a ceremony generally performed by widows after the decease of their husbands.

This morning a woman, a fat, bouncing, good-looking dame, whom we found the queen, having a great quantity of their cloth of all colours, made us a visit, and a present.

Tootahau, the king of the island, whom we called Hercules, too, and all his family, came and brought us presents, which we kindly accepted.

On the 30th, the weather being fair, we made a tour in the country, which was very pleasant, and met with several rare plants, which afforded much agreeable amusement to our botanical gentlemen.

On the 2d of May, we missed the astronomical quadrant it having been brought on shore the day before, in order to make observation of the transit of Venus: several men were immediately dispatched into the country to search for it; and they were informed, by some of the natives, that it had been carried through the woods to the eastward. The captain, Mr. Bank. and Mr. Green with some other of our men, Tubora Tumaida, and a few of the natives, all armed, set out in pursuit of it. Tootahau, the king, and several canoes, were detained till they returned. While they were on this expedition, I walked out to the east, in the evening, and was page 22was almost stunned with the noise of the grashoppers, with which this island abounds. At length I came to a large open place, on the side of which I saw a long house_; and in the area many of the natives assembled, having brought with them large baskets of bread-fruit: some of them were employed in dividing them, and others carried away whole baskets full; so that it had the appearance of a market of breadfruit. Near to this opening, there was another long house, where, it seems, they coloured their cloth, of which I bought a few pieces, and returned to the fort. About eight o'clock in the evening, the party, that went out in quest of the quadrant, came back, having happily obtained it by the assistance of Tubora Tumaida. Some of the natives had taken it to pieces, and divided it amongst them, but had done it no material damage. It was stolen by a man named Moroameah, servant to Titaboreah, one of their chiefs. They also found a pistol, which one of the natives had stolen some time before. Tootahau wept while the party was absent, and was much alarmed on the occasion, apprehending that he should be killed if the quadrant could not be found; and had sent for two hogs to appease us. Oboreah, the queen, fled from us; nor would any of the natives come to market. When Tubora Tumaida, and his party, who accompanied Mr. Banks, returned, and saw Tootahau confined, they set up the most doleful lamentation imaginable; but they were soon pacified by the assurances made them that we designed them no injury.

On the 4th, very few people came to market with provisions, having been intimidated by the detention of their king Tootahau.

Some of the natives gave us an account of many neighbouring islands, to the number of nineteen, and shewed us one of them from a hill, which was Yoole Etea.

Most of the natives of this island smell strong of the cocoa oil, and are of a pale brown complexion, mostly having black hair, and that often frizzled; black eyes, flat nose, and large mouth, with a chearful countenance; they all wear their beards, but cut off their mustachios, [see pl. VIII. fig. 1.] are well made, and very sturdy, having their bellies in general very prominent; and are a timorous, merry, facetious, hospitable people. There are more tall men among them than among any people I have page break

Plate V. A woman & a boy. Natives of Otaheite, in the dress of that Country.

page 23have seen, measuring six feet, three inches and a half; but the women in general are small compared with the men. [See pl. V.] They must be very honest amongst themselves as every house is without any fastening. Locks, bolts, and bars, are peculiar to civilized countries, where their moral theory is the best, and their moral practices too generally of the worst; which might induce a celebrated writer to conclude, though erroneously, that mankind, upon the whole, are necessarily rendered worse, and less happy, by civilization, and the cultivation of the arts and sciences. Nature's wants, it is true, are but few, and the uncivilized part of mankind, in general, seem contented if they can acquire those few. Ambition, and the love of luxurious banquets, and other supersluities, are but little known in the barbarous nations: they have, in general, less anxious thought for the morrow, than civilized; and therefore feel more enjoyment. while they partake of heaven's bounty in the present day. Unaccustomed to indulgences in cloathing and diet, which Europeans have carried to an extreme, they are less subject to diseases; are more robust; feel less from the inclemencies of the seasons; and are, in constitution, what the ancient Britons were before their civilization. Unhappily for us, the athletic constitution of our ancestors is not to be found amongst us, being enervated by excesses of various kinds; while diseases, the effect of intemperance and debaucheries, contaminate our blood, and render them hereditary amongst our offspring.

The natives huts are inclosed; by a low fence made of reeds; and the ground within them is very neatly bedded with a kind of straw, upon which they lay mats to sleep on; and, for a pillow, they have a four-legged stool, joined at the bottom, which is made out of a solid piece of wood; and the only tools they have to work. with are made of stones, or shells, as they had no iron upon the island until the Dolphin arrived. [See pl. XIII. fig. 7.]

These huts are built at a considerable distance from each other; so that the island looks like one continued village, and abounds with cocoa^*, bread-fruit, and appletrees; the fruit of which drops, as it were, into their mouths; and may be the cause-that they are an indolent people: Were they inclined to industry, provisions might

^* I saw some stalks of cocoa-nuts which, were as heavy as. I could lift, which surprised me the more-as the stalks were very slender.

page 24be found in greater plenty amongst them; and, by proper cultivation, the fruits of the island would not only be increased, but their quality might be improved. They seem, however, as contented with what is spontaneously produced, as if they had attained to the ne plus ultra, and are therefore happier than Europeans in general are, whose desires are unbounded. When the men are at work, they wear only a piece of cloth round their middle, which they call maro: at other times they wear garments which they call purawei, and teepoota about their bodies, with a kind of turban on their heads; and, in walking, they carry a long white stick in one of their hands, with the smallest end uppermost.

These people go to war in large canoes, at one end of which there is a kind of stage erected, supported by four carved pillars, and is called tootee. Their weapons are a kind of clubs, and long wooden lances. They have also bows and arrows. The former are made of a strong elastic wood. The arrows are a small species of reed, or bamboes, pointed with hard wood, or with the sting of the rayfish, which is a sharp-bearded bone. [See pl. XIII. fig. 13] They also make use of slings, [see ibid. fig. 1.] made of the fibres of the bark of some tree, of which, in general, they make their cordage too: some of them, as well as their slings, are neatly plaited. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, which they call towa, are made by tying a hard black stone, of the kind of which they make their paste-beaters, to the end of a wooden handle; and they look very much like a small garden hoe: and the stone part is ground or worn to an edge. [See pl. XIII. fig. 9.] The making of these stone-instruments must be a work of time, and laborious, as the stone of which they are made is very hard. The natives have maros, or pieces of cloth, which reach up from the waist, to defend them from the lances, or bunches of hair curiously plaited. They also wear teepootas upon their heads, and taowmees, or a kind of breast-plate, hung about their necks; [see pl. XI.] large turbans too, in which they stick a small bunch of parrot's feathers; [see pl. XIII. fig. 12.] and sometimes use what they call a whaow, which is a large cap of a conical figure. In their heivos, or war-dances, they assume various antic motions and gestures, like those practised by the girls when they dance taowree whaow,^* playing on a clapper made of two mother-of-pearl shells; and make the ephaita, or wry mouth, [see pl. VII. fig. 2.] as a token of defiance: they also join their hands together, moving them at the same time, and clap the palms of their

^* A kind of diversion.

page break

Plate VI. House and Plantation of a chief of the Island of Otaheite.

page break

Plate VII. The head of a Native of omtaheite with the face Curiously tataoued. And the [gap — reason: illegible] mouth, or manner of defying their enemies practised by the people of that [gap — reason: illegible] the neighboring island.

page 25 hands upon their breasts near their shoulders. When they fight in their boats, they generally throw a string to one another to fasten the canoes together; and the men who are employed in doing this are never struck at^†.

The natives cut their hair in various forms. When their nearest relations die, some of them cut it off entirely, and go bare-headed; others leave a border all round the head; and others cut it into circles; while some have only a circular piece cut off the crown like a priest's tonsure; others still prefer another mode, leaving the hair upon the crown of the head, and cut off all the rest. All this they perform with a shark's tooth, which cuts it very close: they also shave with a shark's tooth fitted to a piece of coarse shell. The natives are accustomed to mark themselves in a very singular manner, which they call tataowing; [see pl. VII. fig. 1.] this is done with the juice of a plant; and they perform the operation with an instrument having teeth like a comb, dipped in the juice, with which the skin is perforated. [See pl. XIII. fig. 2, 3, and 4.] Mr. Stainsby, myself, and some others of our company, underwent the operation, and had our arms marked: the stain left in the skin, which cannot be effaced without destroying it, is of a lively bluish purple, similar to that made upon the skin by gun-powder. These people have invented a musical instrument, somewhat like a flute, [see pl. XIII. fig. 8. and pl. IX.] which they blow into through their noses; but their notes, which are but very few, are rude and ungrateful. Their dances are not less singular than their music; for they twist their bodies into many extravagant postures, spread their legs, set their arms a-kimbo, and, at the same time, distort the muscles of their faces, and twist their mouths diagonally, in a manner which none of us could imitate. [See pl. VII. fig. 2.]

Polygamy is not allowed amongst them; but the married women have not a very delicate sense of modesty: their husbands will allow you any liberty with their wives, except the last, which they do not approve. Most of our ship's company procured temporary wives amongst the natives, with whom they occasionally co habited; an indulgence which even many reputed virtuous Europeans allow themselves, in uncivilized parts of the world, with impunity; as if a change of place

^† We saw two men who had been pierced through the skull by stones from a fling; the wounds were healed up, but had left a large operculum.

page 26altered the moral turpitude of fornication: and what is a sin in Europe, is only a simple innocent gratification in America; which is to suppose, that the obligation to chastity is local, and restricted only to particular parts of the globe.

It is customary for the women to wear garlands of flowers on their heads, [see pl. VIII. fig. 1, 2.] which are composed of the white palm-leaves gathered from the spathas from which the flower proceeds. They also gather a species of gardenia, as soon as they open, and put them in their ears. Both sexes are very cleanly; they wash themselves in the river three times a day; and their hands and teeth after every meal.

The children of both sexes are remarkably kind to one another, and, if any thing be given them, will, if possible, equally divide it among them.

On the fifth, the captain and Mr. Banks, with some others, went to the west, and waited upon Tootahau, and some other of the chiefs, who, it was supposed, had taken affront, as the people did not bring fruit, as usual, to market. They received them kindly, and entertained them with wrestling-and dancing: when they returned to the ship, Tootahau, their king, came along with them, brought a barbecued-hog, and the captain made him a present.

On the sixth being the next day, the natives brought their fruits to market as usual.

In walking through the woods we saw the corpse of a man laid upon a sort of bier, which had an awning over it made of mats, supported by four sticks; a square piece of ground around it was railed in with bamboos, and the body was covered with cloth. These burial places are called Morai.

This day we also saw them polishing their canoes, which was done with the madrepora fungites, a species of coral, or sea mushroom, with which they also polish the beams of their houses.

Plate VIII. Heads of divers Natives of the Islands of Otaheite, Huaheine & Oheiteroah.

On the 8th, Mr. Mollineux went in the long-boat to the east to buy some hogs but could not get any: the people told them that they belonged to Tootahau, which evinced the superiority of that man.

We saw a man this day of a very fair complexion, with ruddy nose and cheeks, having the hair of his head, beard, eye-brows, and eye-lashes, quite white; insomuch that he was a lusus naturæ amongst them.

On the 13th, as Mr. Banks sat in the boat, trading with them as usual, we saw a very odd ceremony performed:—Some strangers came up, to whom the rest gave way, making a lane for them to pass through: the first person in the procession presented Mr. Banks with a small bunch of parrot's feathers, with some plantain, and malape-leaves, one after another. A woman passed along the next, having a great many clothes upon her, which she took off, and; spreading them upon the ground, turned round, and exposed herself quite naked: more garments being handed to her, by the company, she spread them also upon the ground, and then exposed herself as before; then the people gathered up all her clothes, took leave, and retired.

On the 14th, we saw a person who had the appearance of an hermaphrodite.

On the 15th, we had but a slight sea breeze, and the weather was very sultry, though the clouds hung upon the mountains, and we expected some rain; we had some puffs of wind from the mountains, that raised the sand in little clouds, which covered every thing, and rendered our situation still more disagreeable. In the evening we saw a remarkable large ring round the moon.

On the 16th, it rained very hard, and there were two rainbows. We hauled the, Sein in several distant places, but caught no-fish.

On the 17th, the centinel fired at one of the natives, who came before it was light with an intent to steal some of the casks, which was the second offence; but the powder flashed in the pan, and the man escaped with his life.

On the 20th, but few of the natives came to market, having been prevented by the rain.

On the 22d, it rained very hard, accompanied with thunder and lightening, more terrible than any I had ever heard, or seen, before. It rained so hard that the water came through the markee, and wetted every thing in it; and we were much afraid the ship would have suffered by the storm, but she providentially escaped.

On the third of June, it being very fair, the astronomers had a good opportunity of making an observation of the transit. Mr. Banks, and a party, went to Eimayo; and another party to the east, to make observations at the same time. Mr. Banks returned with two hogs, which he got from the king of Eimayo.

The following calculation of the Transit, being found amongst Sydney Parkinson's papers, as also a table of the rising and falling of the Thermometer, between the 27th of April, 1769, and the 9th of July following, they are here subjoined for the information of the curious.

Calculation of the transit

the rising and falling of the thermometer

Dr. Solander, Mr. Banks, and several others, went to visit Tootahau, to see if they could obtain any hogs; and, after going much farther than where he usually resides, they met with him, and queen Oboreah: they treated them with fair promises, and invited them to stay the night with them, which they accepted; but, in the morning, some missed their stockings, others their jackets and waistcoats; amongst the rest, Mr. Banks lost his white jacket and waistcoat, with silver frogs; in the pockets of which were a pair of pistols, and other things: they enquired for them, but could get no account of them.: and they came away greatly dissatisfied, having obtained but one pig.

On the 12th, we received' an account from the natives respecting two ships that had been on their coast; and we gathered from them that the crew were Spaniards, and that they had introduced the lues venerea amongst them.^‡

On the 15th, the oven-rake was stolen, which, joined to the other things that had been pilfered from us by some of the natives, and the insolent treatment Mr. Monkhouse met with, determined the captain to seek redress; he seized twenty seven double canoes, with sails, which happened to be at the point, in the morning, some of which came from another island; and he threatened to burn them if the stolen things should not be returned. Before noon they brought back the rake, but we had no account of the rest; and the canoes were still kept in custody. Tootahau was much displeased, and would not suffer any of the natives to supply us with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, or apples. At this time the weather was very wet; P. Briscoe, one of Mr. Banks's servants, was very bad of a nervous fever, and we had but little hopes of his recovery, having been, by a long course of sickness, reduced to very great weakness; and, in this hot climate, it is a long; time before an European recovers his strength, as I have known by experience.

On the 19th, in the evening after dark; Oboreah, the queen, and several of her attendants, came from Opare, Tootahau's palace, in a double canoe, laden with plantains, bread-fruit, and a hog; but brought none of the stolen things with

^‡ we afterrwards learned at Batavia, were fitted out by the French, and commanded by

page 32them, pleading, that Obade, her gallant, had stolen them, and was gone off with them. Mr. Banks received her very coolly; nor would suffer them to lie in the markee, he being already engaged; and the captain refused their presents, at which the queen appeared very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the rest, went to-bed; and the whole tribe of the natives would have lain in the bell-tent, but I would not suffer them, and sent them away; The next morning they returned to the tent, and captain Cook altered his resolution, and bought some of their fruit. The queen behaved very haughtily, yet Mr. Banks agreed they should lie in his markee in the day-time. Two of her attendants were very assiduous in getting themselves husbands, in which attempt they, at length, succeeded. The surgeon took one, and one of the lieutenants the other: they seemed agreeable enough till bed-time, and then they determined to lie in Mr. Banks's tent, which they did accordingly: but one of the engaged coming out, the surgeon insisted that she should not sleep there, and thrust her out, and the rest followed her, except Otea Tea, who whined and cried for a considerable time, till Mr. Banks led her out also. Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Banks came to an eclaircissement some time after; had very high words, and I expected they would have decided it by a duel, which, however, they prudently avoided. Oboreah, and her retinue, had gone to their canoe, and would not return; but Mr. Banks went and staid with them all night.

This day, the princess Tetroah Mituah's canoes were taken, laden with presents for us; but, as captain Cook knew she was innocent, he let her have her canoes again.

On the 21st, in the morning, many of the natives came to us with presents of various kinds; but, though called presents, they were all paid for. Our tent was nearly filled with people; and, soon after, Amoa, who is chief of several districts on the other side of the island, also came to us, and brought with him a hog. As soon as he appeared, the natives uncloathed themselves to the waist; which mark of obeisance to their superiors we had not observed before, but judged it was usually shewn to every person of distinguished rank amongst them. This man Oboreah called her husband, and Toobaiah his brother; but there is little regard to be paid to what they say. A woman, called Teetee, came from the west, and presented a very fine garment to the Captain, of a bright yellow in the ground, page 33bordered with red: in the middle of it were many crosses, which we apprehended they had learned from the French.

On the 23d, in the morning, we missed one of our men, a Portugueze, whom we had taken in at Rio de Janeiro; enquiring among the Indians, we learned that he was at Opare with Tootahau; and one of them offered to go and bring him back to us, which he accordingly did the same night. The account which he gave on his return was, That three men came to him crying Tyau, which is the watch-word, amongst them, for friendship, and then carried him from the sort, and dragged him to the top of the bay, where they stripped him, forced him into a boat, and took him to Opare, where Tootahau gave him some cloaths, and persuaded him to stay with him. This account we believed to be true, for, as soon as is was known amongst the natives that he was rescued, all of them in the bell-tent moved off, and went to Opare in great haste, being apprehensive that we should reck our revenge on them.

On the 26th, the captain and Mr. Banks set out to make a survey of the island, and began with the west side.

On the 27th, we saw a favourite game, which the young girls divert themselves with in an evening; dividing themselves into two parties, one standing opposite to the other, one party throws apples, which the other endeavours to catch. The right of the game I am not acquainted with; but now-and-then one of the parties advanced, stamping with their feet, making wry mouths, straddling with their legs, lifting up their cloaths, and exposing their nakedness; at the same time repeating some words in a disagreeable tone. Thus are they bred up to lewdness from their childhood, many of them not being above eight or nine years of age.

The 28th; this evening the captain and Mr. Banks returned from their western excursion. And,

On the 29th, early in the morning, they set out for the east part of the island, to make a survey of it.

Provisions of all kinds were, at this time, very scarce; and some of the inhabitants almost famished. This scarcity was principally occasioned by supplying us too liberally with bread-fruit, which obliged the inhabitants to eat ehee, roasted, in its stead, which tastes much like our chesnut: but, as the bread-tree was full of young fruit, we were in hopes that they would soon have another crop to relieve them.

On the first of July, in the evening, the captain and Mr. Banks returned from surveying the island, which they found to be larger than they expected, and brought with them several hogs, and could have obtained more with more hatchets. In their tour round the island, they discovered that it consists of two peninsulas, connected by a low marshy isthmus, through which Mr. Banks supposed canoes might be drawn. From Port-Royal, which is situate at the west end, the coast extends E by S. about nineteen miles to a reef of three small islands, forming a bay, called Society-Bay. From this the land inclines into a deep bay, at the isthmus or juncture of the two divisions, of which the smallest is nearly oval, and surrounded by a reef, which runs parallel to the shore at about two miles distance: This has several apertures, or passages, which afford safe anchorage within The north side of the island is likewise defended by a similar reef; but the ground within is foul, and unsafe for vessels of burthen. The whole length of the island is about fifteen leagues; and its circumference forty leagues. Besides the above-mentioned, they saw several other bays; some of them very good, and one, in particular, in which a large fleet might have rode with ease and safety: the name the natives give it is Papara.

They also learned, that the island is divided into two. principalities, one of which, comprehending the largest peninsula, is called Otaheite Nooa, or Great Otaheite; the other, comprehending the smallest peninsula, is termed Otaheite Eetee, or Little Otaheite. The former of these divisions is also called Oboreano, in honour of of queen Oboreah, who is regent of it. The other division is also governed by a woman named Teideede; she is younger than Oboreah. The people of the two divisions do not seem to be upon good terms, having but little communication, with. each other.

In their voyage they also saw a large monument, of a pyramidal form, of polished stone, which they were told was the moral of Oboreah and Oamo, and the people there said they were brother and sister.

On the 6th of July, in the evening, a young woman came to the entrance of the fort, whom we found to be a daughter of Oamo. The natives complimented her on her arrival, by uncovering their shoulders. We invited her to the tent, but she did not accept of it.

On the 9th, two of our marines being enamoured with a girl, one of the natives deserted from the sort, and fled to the west part of the island, and intended to have staid there. On the same day one of the natives stole a knife from one of our sailors, and wounded him with it in the forehead, almost through his skull: — a fray ensued, and the Indians ran away.

On this day, Mr. Banks and Dr. Monkhouse went many miles to a valley toward Orowhaina: at length they came to a waterfall, and could proceed no farther. At this spot the mountains were almost: perpendicular; and from several parts of them hung some ropes, designed, as was apprehended, to assist those who should attempt to ascend them in times of scarcity, to get fayhee, or wild plantain. The stones and soil, on some of the highest mountains, appeared as if they had been burnt, or calcined: and, on the lower ones, where I have been, the earth is a sort of red-ochre covered with various plants, but chiefly with fern.

Most of the materials which composed the fort having been taken down, and put on board the ship, we prepared to set fail.

On the 10th, hearing no tidings of the two men who deserted us, we resolved to seize several of the principal people, and detain them till we could recover them: we also sent a party in the pinnace who apprehended Tcotahau, and brought him to the ship; upon which Oboreah, and several other of the chiefs, sent out their servants, who returned in the evening with one of them, and re-page 36ported that the Indians had detained one of our officers who commanded the party sent out after him; also one of the men who accompanied him, and, having seized their arms, used them very roughly; upon which the marines were dispatched in the long-boat after them, taking with them some of the natives. In the mean time, the natives, whom we had made prisoners, not knowing what would be their fate, were much alarmed; but the next morning the marines returned with the men that had been detained, with the others that had deserted; and the natives, whom we had imprisoned, were released. After making strong professions of friendship, they left us; and, as soon as they reached the shore, bent their course, as fast as possible, to Opare, shewing tokens of displeasure as they went along.

During our stay here, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were very assiduous in collecting whatever they thought might contribute to the advancement of Natural History; and, by their directions, I made drawings of a great many curious trees, and other plants; fish, birds, and of such natural bodies as could not be conveniently preserved entire, to be brought home.

The following catalogue exhibits some of the principal botanical subjects, natives of this place, made use of by the inhabitants.