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Journal of the Nelson and Marlborough Historical Societies, Volume 1, Issue 2, November 1982

John Sylvanus Cotterell – Surveyor 1842

John Sylvanus Cotterell – Surveyor 1842

17 November 1842. At noon started from base-line at Waimea South, and travelled four miles up the Wai-iti Valley. Six miles.

18th. Travelled ten miles.

19th. Followed the valley for two miles when we discovered the river to rise from a narrow steep ravine in a mountain range bearing E.N.E. Ascended the high range, proceeded three miles having a deep valley between us and the mountain range. Discovered a pass in the mountains to the left, but a large extent of forest lay between us and that. Also discovered another valley and river to westward which appeared to be connected with the pass. Made the valley and found it covered with grass, the soil very poor, land rising in terraces. Camped inside wood – course S.S.E. 10 miles.

20th. Proceeded through wood, about 12 miles, all black birch, very little underwood, soil composed of rotten trees and leaves.

21st. Followed pass for two miles S.E. then E. three miles and arrived at summit level and found water flowing eastward and land falling considerably in that direction. Wood of same character. Observed large wooded valley stretching S.W. bounded east by snowy range. At seven miles broke out of wood into valley of Wairoo, forty chain wide, covered with grass and a large river flowing through it. Camped at river's bank with a snowy range on either side. Above point of junction with Wairoo it is thick black birch forest.

22nd. Two miles below encampment a low range of hills crosses the valley, leaving only a passage on the south side for the river, and, as the river took close to the north side we waded it, though with some difficulty and a good wetting. After making a fire and drying ourselves, proceeded a little further down this valley and encamped by the river side. Distance 20 miles. Course N.E.

23rd. At 1 mile crossed a river which proceeds from a narrow gorge S.S.W. and which, from quantity of water, appears to come a long way in that direction. Continuing down the valley, at 3 miles walked over a low range of hills running across the valley except for the opening of the river to the northward. From this range the valley appeared of one character about a mile and a half wide here and increasing as it proceeded and all covered with grass as far as the eye could reach; the river always running on the north side in a channel averaging half a mile in width. Descended into the valley and travelled N.E. by E. for ten miles always over grassland, sometimes very thick page 52and quite fit for the scythe, sometimes thin and stony. We also passed a bed of fine flax growing on high ground of nearly 1,000 acres, enclosed on river. Distance 15 miles.

24th. Travelled over several flax swamps and regained high grassland. At ten miles went into hills to look for a pass. Hill on hill rising in rear with many deep ravines and much heavy fern, so glad to retreat to plain. On return found Wairoo on south side of the plain, valley not more than one mile wide and a large growth of flax in it. Distance 23 miles. N.E. by E.

25th. Started down on course E. by N. Ascended bank at two miles and could see nothing but grass as far as the eye could reach. At 3 miles crossed a large valley and river coming from S.W. after which the plain of the Wairoo rapidly widened. We now had a succession of remarkably green grassy valleys and low easy hills, all covered with clean grass and watered by many hill streams till at the distance of 20 miles we reached the bluff that was in the extreme distance in the morning and attained the head of the alluvial flat. The valley of the Wairoo at this point appears a full 10 miles wide without taking into account branch valleys. There are some swamps as you come down from the table grassland into the alluvial flat, but with good natural facilities for draining. This flat is particularly rich land covered with docks, sow thistles and other plants indicative of good soil, besides having the advantage of a deep navigable river for 18 miles through it and the water level ranging from 4 to 10 feet below the surface of the flat. Encamped on the river with Port Underwood lying N. and White Bluff Head E. by N. Distance 23 miles. (From Nelson Examiner, 17 Dec. 1842.)

Cotterell continued along the sea coast toward the south, crossing the mouth of the Kaipari te Hau [Awatere] River and noted the fertile valley. Finally he reached the Waipopoo [Clarence]. It was impossible to ford this large river, so he re-traced his steps. At the mouth of the Kaipari te Hau a most welcome sight was a schooner whose crew provided food and a whale boat in which they travelled first to Cloudy Bay on December 6, leaving the next day for Nelson which was reached on the 11th.

The Editor of the Nelson Examiner, on the 17th December expressed relief that the expedition had returned safely and added. "The result of this expedition is highly satisfactory as it determines the practicability of an easy communication between the valleys."

[Unfortunately Cotterell was one of the victims of the Wairau Affray. He had spent 16 months in Nelson and was aged 23. His work is remembered by a plaque on the Blenheim-Lake Rotoiti Highway, and in the naming of Mount Cotterell.]