Wairau Sheep Runs

The Wairau runs were largely taken up about 1850 as an investment by businessmen who knew little or nothing about sheep and relied on the shepherds they employed to run the properties. It was mainly taken under lease and was often grid-ironed by buying areas of frontage and then running the No-man's-Land adjoining it. Land was taken up by many investors and then aggregation took place by those ambitious enough or financial enough taking over neighbouring properties. The hey-day of the runs was in the 1880s and 1890s. Many of the larger holdings were being broken up by about 1900.

The present road from the Wairau to the Buller was built in the late 1920s and early 1930s. Bridge timber, cement, culvert pipes, and all other requirements, were railed to Kohatu station on the Nelson Railway and trucked through Tophouse.

The Wash Bridge, built about 1926, was 76 feet above water level when built but there is now only about 20 feet between the riverbed and the bridge deck, being the result of erosion in the back country.

The bridge took the place of the old Manuka Island crossing, a few miles further down the river. Always a dangerous stream to cross, the Wairau claimed the lives of many people, including a well known figure, the Hon. Constantine Dillon.

An accommodation house was suggested for this spot in 1850. This was established later but there were great difficulties in keeping it manned.

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The Raglan, Manuka Island, Branch Point, and Leatham, were at one time part of Birch Hill but were cut off the old station, possibly about 1900, and became separate runs.

The Manuka Island homestead is on the northern side of the river and can be clearly seen from the highway.

The Branch River was shown as Cotterell River on early maps. This is now spanned by a modern bridge but there have been difficulties ever since the river was first bridged in the 1920s.

The Leatham in the valley of the Branch River formed a natural boundary between the Birch Hill property and the Hillersden back country behind it.

There were two sheep stations on the north side of the Wairau River. Northbank, at one time belonging to the Bell family, and further north, Langleydale, taken up by William Adams, and still held by the Adams family.

Birch Hill was originally taken up by George Duppa who only held it for a few years and there have been a number of owners since. A stop on the roadside gives travellers a glimpse of the set-up with the woolshed on one side of the road and the bunk-house, cookhouse, and homestead on the other side.

The Wye River is the boundary between Birch Hill and Hillersden.

The Hillersden land was originally taken up in various blocks by a number of speculators including A. G. Jenkins and E. D. Sweet. When owned by Thomas Carter, with Jimmy Bell as manager, it became a vast run and employed up to 200 and more men and so became known as 'Nelson College' as so many young men from Nelson went there for employment. The undertaking was worked from several points. The Hillersden homestead was one mile from the Wairau Valley township; Wantwood was some miles further south, while Stronvar was over the ranges at the head of the Waihopai Valley. The station had its own flax mill, wagon teams, gangs of rabbiters, and so on.

Lansdowne, opposite the Wairau Valley township, was taken up by C. F. Watts. He was appointed the first constable of Wairau in 1849. His son, George Watts, became a very well-known figure in the sheep world of Marlborough during his ownership of Lansdowne.

Erina was taken up by G. W. Schroder, a merchant in Nelson, who had made his way to New Zealand independently. He took a lease of a wharf and built a brick warehouse but when this was taken over by the Government in 1851 his attention turned to land in the Wairau. He took up Erina run but eventually was beaten by the scab disease in his sheep so moved to the Amuri where he served as Constable, and carried out most other official duties. Erina was taken over by William Bell and later it was owned by George Watts who ran it as part of Lansdowne.

Bankhouse was taken up by Dr (later Sir) David Monro and the first homestead was at Craiglochart in the Waihopai Valley.

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One of the problems here and at neighbouring localities was the depredations of wild dogs. Some museums have on display the hefty dog-traps used to catch the dogs. These were made by the local blacksmiths.

The Waihopai accommodation house was started in 1853 by G. W. Schroder on an accommodation lease granted by the Provincial Council. A few years later this was listed as an hotel under the 'Bush Licences'. Quite an important hostelry at one time, it is now closed.

(Waihopai Valley)

A short distance up the Waihopai Valley it is posible to see the location of several of the early runs.

On the west side is the homestead of The Delta run. Originally taken up by Edward Green (of Tahunanui fame) it became the property of Dr Thomas Renwick who founded the township which carries his name.

To the east is Leefield the country originally taken up by the Hon. Constantine Dillon.

The Benhopai station further up the valley was the land taken up by W. O. Cautley.

At the head of the valley the watershed is known as the Canterbury Spur. This was used as a stock route to Canterbury as, after crossing the range, mobs were taken down the Saxton and Acheron, to the Clarence River, and then over Jollie's Pass to the Hanmer Plain.

Hawkesbury was taken up by Cyrus Goulter and Brookby by his brother-in-law, Joseph Ward. Both Goulter and Ward had been in the survey party with William Budge and they picked the land they wished to buy.

Brookby was broken up into farms in 1892.

Hawkesbury is best remembered as the home of Charles Goulter, son of Cyrus, who was a well-known breeder of Merino sheep and Jersey cattle. He was proud of the trees which had been planted round the plains and hills.

Woodbourne was taken up by Henry Godfrey.

Fairhall was taken up by Ward and A. P. Seymour.

In the Renwick Museum are some very interesting exhibits although it is to be regretted that much of the material which belong to the area has been taken away to other parts of the country.

Dr Thomas Renwick's first plan of his private survey of the township of Renwick is a valuable historical record which is preserved there.

The dog-trap, as used by the early runholders to catch wild dogs, is certainly a massive and cruel-looking instrument.

Another item of real interest is the first bicycle ever built in New Zealand. This was made by the local blacksmith, John Vorbach, who originally came to New Zealand during the Collingwood gold rush.

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