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A compendium of official documents relative to native affairs in the South Island, Volume One.

1.—Molyneux to Mataura

1.—Molyneux to Mataura.

The first district is generally hilly; the hills in the interior portion of it low and regular ranges, presenting in their terminal aspect the appearance of cones of very similar forms. In many instances sandstone crops out on the ridges in a bare line of rocks. The general direction of the ranges and valleys is from East to West.

The valleys vary from a quarter of a mile to a mile in width, the hills sweeping gently down on either side. Swamp of the usual kind is not prevalent, but mosses are found in most of the valleys. These promise to be of great value, in a district so deficient in timber. From a distance they look like small scrubs, or, if fire has killed the shrubs, like recently-burned patches, black in the midst of the surrounding pasture. The first which we observed were in the upper valley of the Waiwero (seen from Hawkesnest Range); in this case we mistook them for recent burnings, but discovered their real nature the next day, when we examined a similar one on the south of Koakakaeaea. Their vegetation—mosses, lichens, sundews, grasses, shrubs—is peculiar to themselves, and differs entirely from that of the surrounding plain. Those whose growth has been stopped by fire present a curious appearance, being covered with the bleached branches of the Nei, or grass tree, which forms so constant a part of their vegetation that they are called "Nei" by the Natives. Some parts are sound and good walking, others the reverse, especially where the white sphagnum moss is found in knee-deep tufts. Their depth we could not ascertain; we found no bottom with our tent-poles (eight feet), but as (from those which we observed in an incipient state) they appear to begin on ground below the usual level, and when fully developed form mounds considerably above it, I estimated that some of them must be from twenty to thirty feet thick. In extent they vary from the mere tuft of moss to forty or fifty page 278acres. Below the surface they consist of a light, homogeneous, rich brown earth, composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter. I cannot but hope that they will be found rich treasuries, not only of fuel, but also of the remains of extinct birds.

From Molyneux to Tuturau wood is very scarce; a few woods are scattered along the northern foot of the Molyneux Ranges, and a few clumps here and there in the glens on their southern slope. With the exception of these, Oteraia Wood on the Kahuwera, seems the only one. Messrs. Nairn and Pharazyn, who wandered about here for nine days north and south, of the road to Tuturau, saw no other wood excepting the coast forests, which are said to extend from Tokata Point to Toitoi Bay, at the mouth of the Mataura.

On the western slopes of the Tuturau Range wood abounds, commencing at Tuturau, and increasing towards the sea. Here woods of various size, from detached groves to continuous forests, are scattered over the undulating ground; in that at Tuturau there is much fine kaikatea, matai, and kohai.

The grass in this district is excellent. The rivers are small, most of them, including, perhaps, the Kahuwera, flowing into the Molyneux, their courses alternately following valleys and cutting through ranges till they reach the great valley. I do not speak of the coast rivers, as I have not seen them. Along the seaboard are several boat harbours and one ship harbour, Waikawa, which the Natives inform me has been surveyed by H.M.S. "Acheron."