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The King Country; or, Explorations in New Zealand. A Narrative of 600 Miles of Travel through Maoriland.


page xiii


Geographical description of the King Country—Its political state—Efforts made to open it—Condition of the natives—Origin of the journey—Letter of introduction to the king 1
The Frontier of the King Country.
Chapter I.
the king's camp.
Alexandra—Crossing the frontier—Whatiwhatihoe—The camp —King Tawhiao—The chiefs—"Taihoa" 17
Chapter II.
The Korero.
The Kingites—Half-castes—An albino—The king's speech—Maori oratory—The feast 27
Chapter III.
Ascent of Pirongia.
Mount Pirongia—Geological features—The ascent—A fair prospect 36
The Lake Country.
Chapter IV.
Auckland to Ohinemutu.
The flank movement—Auckland Harbour—Tauranga—Whakari —The tuatara—En route—The Gate Pa—All that remains page xiv—Orop—A grand forest—Mangorewa Gorge—Mangorewa River—A region of eternal fire 46
Chapter V.
hot-spring life.
Ohinemutu and Lake Rotorna—Te Ruapeka—The old pa—Native baths—Delightful bathing—A curious graveyard —Pigs—Area of thermal action—Character of the springs —Chemical constituents—Noted springs—Whakarewarewa —Te Koutu—Kahotawa—"Tenakoe, pakeha"—Hot and cold 56
Chapter VI.
Tradition, Idolatry, and Romance.
Origin of the Maoris—Te Kupe—First canoes—The runanga house—Maori carving—Renowned ancestors—Tama te Kapua—Stratagem of the stilts—Legend of the whale—The Arawa canoe—Noted braves—Mokia—A curious relic —Gods of the Arawas—Mokia. by night—Hinemoa—A love song 68
Chapter VII.
En Route to the Terraces.
Over the mountains—Rauporoa Forest—The hotete—Tikitapu —Rotokakahi—Te Wairoa—The natives—Waituwhera Gorge—The boat—A distinguished traveller—Sophia—Lake Tarawera—Mount Tarawera—Te Ariki—Te Kaiwaka 81
Chapter VIII.
The Terraces.
Te Tarata—Beauty of the terrace—The formation—The crater —A sensational bath—Ngahapu—Waikanapanapa—A weird gorge—Te Aua Taipo—Kakariki—Te Whatapohu—Te Huka—Te Takapo—Lake Rotomahana—Te Whakataratara —Te Otukapurangi—The formation—The cauldron 94
Chapter IX.
Ohinemutu to Wairakei.
Te Hemo Gorge—Mount Horohoro—Paeroa Mountains—Orakeikorako —Atea-Amuri—Pobaturoa—The land of pumice—Te Motupuke—The glades of Wairakei 109 page xv
Chapter X.
The first view—The Geyser Valley—Curious sights—Tahuatahe —Terekirike—The Whistling Geyser—A nest of stone—Singular mud-holes—The Gas and Black Geyser—The Big Geyser—The great Wairakei—The Blue Lake—Hot mud-holes—Kiriohinekai—A valley of fumaroles—Te Karapiti Te Huka Falls—Efforts to pass under the falls—A cave—An enormous fissure—Another trial—A legend 115
Exploration of the king Country.
Chapter XI.
The Start.
Reason of the journey—How I succeeded—My interpreter —Our horses—The Hursthouse difficulty—Departure from Wairakei—Tapuwaeharuru—The natives—Release of Hursthouse, and capture of Te Mahuki—The council of war 131
Chapter XII.
The Region of lake Taupo.
Natural phenomena—The great table-land—Position and dimensions of the lake—Water shed—Geological features —The lake an extinct crater—Crater lakes—Areas of thermal action 139
Chapter XIII.
Eastern Shore of lake Taupo.
A grand view—True source of the Waikato—The river of "streaming water"—Our first camp—Variation of temperature —Roto Ngaio—Te Hatepe—Te Poroporo—The lake beneath us—A canoe—Motutere—Tauranga—Southern shore of the lake—Delta of the Upper Waikato 149
Chapter XIV.
Scenery—The springs—The natives—Old war-tracks—Te Heuheu—A Maori lament—Motutaiko—Horomatangi 161 page xvi
Chapter XV.
The Rangipo Table Land.
Along the delta of the Upper Waikato—Mount Pihanga—The Poutu River and Lake Rotoaira—Boundaries of the Rangipo —Scenery—A fine night—A rough time—A great storm—The karamu as fodder—Banks of the Upper Waikato —Another start—More bad weather—Flooded creeks—Pangarara—Te Hau 168
Chapter XVI.
Ascent of Tongariro.
Physical and geological features—Legend of Tongariro—A break in the clouds—The start for the ascent—Maories in the distance—The Waihohonu valley—The ascent—The brink of Hades—The great crater—The inner crater—The lower cones—Crater lakes—The descent—A valley of death—Tongariro by moonlight—A cold night—The start for Ruapehu 179
Chapter XVII.
Ascent of Ruapehu.
(First Day.)
Approaching the mountain—A field for research—Physical and geological features—Plan of attack—Curious icicles—A lava barrier—Natives in the distance—Horse camp—Scoria hills and lava ridges—The start for the snow-line—Up the great spur—Head of the spur—Our camp—A wind-storm—Ruapehu by night—A picture of the past—Waiting for sunrise—Sunrise 199
Chapter XVIII.
(Second Day.)
Ascent of the Great Peak.
The start—A lava bluff—Last signs of vegetation—Wall of conglomerate rock—The Giant Rocks—Ancient crater—Difficult climbing—A frightful precipice—The ice crown —Cutting our way over the ice—The summit—Peaks and crater—A grand coup d'œil—The surrounding country—Taking landmarks—Point Victoria 217 page xvii
Chapter XIX.
The Kaimanawa Mountains.
Further plans.—Across the plains—In memoriam—The Onetapu Desert—Mamanui camp—Grilled weka—A heavy frost—The Kaimanawas—Geological formation—A probable El Dorado—Reputed existence of gold 229
Chapter XX.
Second Ascent of Ruapehu. Sources of the Whangaehu and Waikato Rivers.
Curious parterres—Supposed source of Whangaehu—A gigantic lava bed—A steep bluff—The Horseshoe Fall—The Bridal Veil Fall—The Twin Falls—A dreary region—Ice caves—Source of the Waikato—The descent—Our camp on the desert 237
Chapter XXI.
Our commissariat gives out—The Murimotu Plains—The settlement —The homestead—The welcome—Society at Karioi —The natives—The Napier mail 252
Chapter XXII.
Forest Country.
The start from Karioi—On the track—Te Wheu maps the country—The primeval solitude—Terangakaika Forest—The flora—Difficulties of travel—The lakes—Birds—Pakihi—Mangawhero River—Gigantic vines—Fallen trees —Dead forest giants—Mangatotara and Mangatuku Rivers —A "Slough of Despond"—Dismal swamp 258
Chapter XXIII.
The wharangi plant—Enormous ravines—Ruakaka—Reception by the Hauhaus—The chief Pareoterangi—The parley—Hinepareoterangi—A repast—Rapid fall of country—The Manganui-a-te-Ao—Shooting the rapids—The natives—Religion—Hauhauism—Te Kooti's lament—A Hauhau hymn 269 page xviii
Chapter XXIV.
Ngatokorua Pa.
Departure from Ruakaka––A legend—Rough forest—Crossing the Manganui-a-te-Ao – Scenery of the river—Mount Towai ––The plains in sight—Rapid rise in the country—Ruapehu from the west—The Waimarino plains—Arrival at the pa —The chiefs family—A Hauhau chief—Inter alia—Pehion the decay of the Maoris—A war-dance—The mere 281
Chapter XXV.
Hot Springs of Tongariro.
Departure from Ngatokorua—Okahakura Plains – Tongariro from the north—Source of the Whanganui—The hot springs—A marvellous sanatorium—Crater of Ketetahi —Te Perore—A strategic position—Kuwharua — Maori cakes—A grand region—Site for a public park 295
Chapter XXVI.
Western Taupo.
Supposed forest country—The western table-land—Soil and flora —Terania—Okarewa—Te Kaina Valley – Maoris on the track—Pouotepiki pa—A tangi—The natives—A friendly invitation—An old warrior—The women—Our quarters. 304
Chapter XXVII.
The Northern Table-Land.
The Whanganui stream—Oruapuraho Valley—Waihaha River —Kahakaharoa—The sweetbriar—The kiwi—The moa—A gigantic lizard—Waikomiko and Waihora Rivers—Te Tihoi Plains – Scenery—Mount Titiraupenga—Mangakowiriwiri River—Mangakino River—Swimming horses—Our camp—The Maoris as travellers—A Maori joke—Good horsemen – Their knowledge of the country—Their endurance—The Waipapa—Te Toto Ranges—The Waipari —Te Tauranga—The Upper Puniu—A fine specimen of tattooing—A night at Hengia 315 page xix
Chapter XXVIII.
The Aukati Line.
Manga-o-rongo—Mangatutu River—The encampment—A sumptuous repast—The kainga—Surrounding scenery—Old warriors—The tribes—The Korero—Arrival of Te Kooti —His wife—His followers—A tête-à-tête—A song of welcome —A haka—Departure from Manga-o-rongo—Waipa River—Valley of the Waipa—Our last difficulty 328