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South Westlend Wander (Placenames to Conjure With)

- Chris Mroczek

The trip got off the ground with a flight into Bonar Flats in the Waiatoto valley just before the weather closed in. Mts Pollux and Castor provfded some brilliant scenery on the way. That night and the following was spent in the hut waiting for Huey to get his act together. Our aim was to get up onto the Haast Range,which culminates to the south in Aspiring - previous parties had headed straight up behind Bonar Flats,but had ended up struggling through thick scrub. Travel up the Waiatoto then Astrologer Ck was straightforward - a small waterfall in the latter forcing us into the bush. Above the bush the Haast Range peaks (Moonraker,Spike,Stargazer,Skyscraper) ,Mt Aspiring,the Volta Glacier and the glacial lake at the head of the Waiatoto provided us with a spectacular panorama. With the decreasing deer population bush travel will be considerably harder. Lots of regeneration was evident on the climb up,and for the first time we saw whole alpine meadows of Mt Cook lilies and Mountain Daisies. We headed in the general direction of Corner Post and camped on what looked like the last flat area.

The automatic kea alarm went off around 5,not a pleasant way to wake up but at least the weather was perfect. The route up towards Corner Post involved some exposed climbing on slabs and tussock,the difficulty being compounded by our heavy packs. Our plan to reach Cloudmaker Lake never eventuated;a decision to turn back was made just below the top. The route is feasible,but being only our second day our fitness was somewhat lacking. The descent only required one abseil and careful travel. We got to the crest of the Haast Range on the north side of Corner Post and were again treated to fantastic views,into the Waipara and Arawata vallies. After a food break we dropped into the Waipara;a halt was called when we came across an idyllic campsite on the edge of the bush. The rest of the day was spent lying in the sun being disturbed by deer hunting helicopters.

Another fine day. Down to the Waipara,then followed an incredibly shitty piece of bushbashing up the river to avoid bluffs on the true left. Feeling utterly pissed off we finally came out onto some flats above the gorge. Good travel and good campsites were found on the true left.

After a late start next day we headed off up the true left in easy bush,and on flats,crossing from side to side where necessary. The going became more rugged as the river started rising through old terminal moraine to the glacial lake at the head of the valley. Many times we had to head into the scrub to avoid bluffs. The bush was in various stages of regeneration due to the glacier retreating ,and as a result was very thick. A good campsite was established with a great view of the lake and the Bonar icefall which periodically sent tons of ice crashing hundreds of meters into the water.

The weather next day was marginal,so a unanimous decision to stay in pit was made. Our next objective was Waipara Saddle:the following day was clear and windy as we headed up. The route is relatively straightforward but many objective dangers such as rockfall were present (see route guide p. 12). Looking across the valley we had superb views of Mt Aspiring and the Bonar Glacier. From the top we descended page 11easy/steepish snow to the remnants of the Arawata Glacier,then on to the rock biv.

That night we dined on dehy and fern shoots,with disastrous consequences for some members of the party next morning. A steady plod in good weather soon had us at the top of Arawata Saddle,where we were met by a delegation of 7 keas. After some deliberation about which way to descend and a couple of false starts we made a rapid descent down a series of snow couloirs and rock ledges to Liverpool Bivvy. Gerard headed out next day,while Stu and I slothed. An attempt on Mt Barff was made a large crevasse near the top forced us to do an airy hairy traverse out onto the Matukituki side. The view of the river between our legs 2000 ft below,plus no psychological aid (ie rope) persuaded us to turn back.

With only soy grits and brown rice left we headed out to Wanaka,with thoughts of grease and cold DBs.

Other members: Stu Jackson and Gerard Honders.