It is said that we must live slowly to be good. How very good we should be, for we have lived slowly enough since the first of last April! It is now the page 204middle of the fifth month since we have been traversing the ocean. Really, it would seem sometimes that sky, ocean, and every visible object had come to an anchor, so slowly do we advance. Were it not that I have enjoyments called employments, I might long since have died of ennui, and been buried in the deep blue ocean; and although poets may write about its coral beds, I have no wish to try one, believing them to be hard and cold. If all the poets were condemned to live on oceans for the space of five months in succession, we should not read as much from their pens in their praise. We should not hear of a beautiful sunset at sea, for it is not what the poet so often describes it, but is more like the character of an old bachelor—there is an incompleteness about it. The clouds appear to lack variety and beauty, and there is a frigid, stony sameness of scenery, that often tires the eye. I cannot subscribe to the sentiment expressed in the following lines of the poet:—

"Though beauty every where is strewn
To glad the weary soul—
Upon the burning, torrid zone,
Around the frozen pole—
Though dark the forest shadows fall,
Though fair the valley be,
The noblest sight among them all
Is sunset on the sea."

I think the poet who traced these lines must have been seated on some verdant mound, on a bright summer eve, with hat and cane thrown carelessly by his side, and the gentle zephyrs fanning his cheeks. It seems to me he could not have been floating about on the ocean, amid opposing currents, baffling winds, and try-patience calms, with rice and molasses for breakfast, dinner and supper— if so, the pretty sonnet entitled "Sunset at Sea," would page 205never have graced the pages of a periodical. Believe me, when I say that a completely finished, beautifully glorious sunset can never be witnessed without the diversified scenery of land and water.

We made the island of Manicola, and approaching it in a different direction from our last visit, we observed several huts and inhabitants. The boat was lowered, manned, and a superficial examination was made on a part of the reef for "beech de mer." A strong breeze prevented a more thorough search. We suspect that Capt. Osborne had some trouble with the same natives on his way to Manilla, as Mr. O., of Manilla, spoke of an occurrence of the kind, but gave no hint of the name or place. We were so near the isle that we could distinctly see the natives. They seemed exceedingly shy, appearing only at intervals from among the trees, and at the doors of their dwellings. They were dark colored, like the Feejeeans. No canoes were observed. We were only five days from Feejee to this place.

Since we left Manicola, we have been tumbling about in cross seas, with strong, contrary winds. I am exceedingly wearied in body, but not discouraged in mind. "Hope on, hope ever," is my motto. We are not doomed like the flying Dutchman to wander o'er these seas forever.

Last evening, about eight o'clock, I said to Mr. W., "Are we not about on the centre of Charlotte's Bank?" He had scarcely replied in the affirmative, when the shout of "breakers! breakers!" saluted our ears. We hastened on deck, and the captain cried out, "Hard down your helm!" The order was instantly obeyed, and the bark came round. This bank is marked on the chart as doubtful. Mr. W. had passed the spot, or very near to it, several times without discovering any bank or page 206shoal; but he had given orders for the watch to be vigilant. None were satisfied that the alarm was not occasioned by a shoal of whales.

We arrived at Motureke about noon, and anchored in a snug little bay. Our vessel is still, and we are at rest, after being tossed hither and thither for six months. I never knew the delight of rest before. I was never before truly weary, and such only as are, can enjoy perfect rest. The natives brought us pigs, fowls, yams, sweet potatoes, bananas and pine-apples. Our people eagerly devoured raw yams, not being willing to wait for them to be cooked. The scurvy had begun to appear among them, and had our passage been prolonged a week page 207or two longer, I fear that none would have had sufficient strength to have managed the vessel. Our voyage from Feejee to Manilla was performed in forty-four days. Mr. W. knew that the prevailing winds would not favor our return here, but he never supposed that our passage would exceed three months, and he supplied the vessel with suitable provisions for that time. Several of the pigs and fowls died. The flour soon grew wormy and musty. Our bread was occupied by living tenants when we left home (this was not the fault of the gentlemanly owners of the bark, who supposed the bread was good). I could not feel an appetite for the salt beef and sandwiches, and my sustenance for the last three months had been rice and molasses. During the last month, while our vessel was being continually tossed about, the winds blowing almost a gale, I could take but little of that. I never felt any disposition, however, to complain of our bill of fare. We had a good supply of coffee and tea, the clouds of heaven supplied us with pure water, and our rice was of the very best kind. We were never threatened with starvation, and we never knew thirst. How many a poor mariner would gladly have exchanged situations with us! How grateful, too, should we be, that we did not suffer!

But did'nt we enjoy the bountiful, delicious feast, that was spread upon our table on the afternoon of the 19th of September! It was at the hour of five. I could not have eaten before, had the food been prepared. I did not feel hungry for some hours, but at length the emotions of my joyful heart became more quiet, and the table, unaccustomed to the load of luxuries, seemed to say, "Come, and lighten my burden!" What a good supper we did have! Roast fowls, boiled yams, tarro, baked sweet potatoes, bananas, &c.

Received a visit from a chief of Bau. We learn from him that the bark Samos, Capt. Archer, is here from Salem, Mass.; the bark Catherine, Capt. Pratt, of Boston, Mass., and the schooner Sir John Franklin, of New Zealand; the latter has brought Mr. J. B. Williams, the United States Consul and general agent for the Pacific.

Namosimalua is still numbered among the living; Bau has allowed him to continue here a little longer. Perhaps, as they deem him neither Christian nor heathen, they think that his spirit would not gain admittance to any habitation in the spirit land, and thus be left to wander about here to their annoyance. It is certain that his life has not been spared through love to him.

Our anchor was raised, and with a fair wind we sailed for Bau, where we arrived at two P.M. A canoe soon came off from Vewa. The mission families sent their compliments, and an invitation to visit them as soon as the tide would allow us. The reefs are so extensive, that Vewa can only be visited at the very top of the tide; consequently, only four hours out of the twenty-four will suit. This may sound strange to those who have read what Ellis, in his Polynesian Researches, says about the tides in the South Pacific Ocean. His remarks appear to apply only to Tahiti. Here the tide is full at six o'clock only, at the full and change of the moon, after which it varies forty minutes daily. At Tonga, Rotumah, and many other islands, the tides are the same as they are here.

At five, P. M., we started for Vewa. The mission families with their servants, the queen with her household, Mary Wallis and many others, awaited our arrival at the landing. Our meeting was any thing but cold or ceremonious. It was most delightfully heart-cheering. "How dreadfully you look!" said one. "Are you page 209sick?" inquired another. "Have you been sick?" said a third. "Let me have a seat at your tables, and you'll see how sick I am," was my answer. We then informed our friends that we had been on a deploring expedition for the last six months, and it had been found to disagree with my constitution. We found that some alterations had taken place during our absence. Mr. Watsford and family had removed to Ono. A stone house had been completed, and Mr. Jaggar and family had removed into it, using a part of it as a printing office. Mrs. Wilson, the widow of the late Francis Wilson, who died in Tonga about three months since, is here, waiting the return of the mission schooner from Lakemba, when she will depart for New Zealand. As Mrs. Wilson occupies my little domicil, I shall pass the nights on board the bark for the present.

Again I have lost the tide, and cannot visit Vewa, being prevented by a call from the Queen of Bau, with her ladies and maidens. My royal visitors are a poor substitute for the loss of the society of my Vewa friends.

Before we left this place for Manilla, Mr. W. gave the schooner Perseverance in charge of two men with trade, and instructions to fish "beech de mer" during our absence. One of the men died, and the other, not being capable of taking the lead of business of any description, the schooner was laid by to rest, and was condemned as unseaworthy by all who had vessels out of employ. Mr. W., however, not being converted to their opinion, has sent for the vessel to prepare it for farther service; consequently, as we shall probably remain here some little time, several "beech de mer" houses have been commenced in this vicinity.

Verani, the chief, who is now called Elijah, still lives, an honor to his calling. He has built a fine new chapel, and is becoming very useful to the missionaries. The chiefs of Bau have become reconciled to him, and all has been peaceful between the two little i slands. Namosimalua is with Thakombau. During our absence, two whaling vessels have been destroyed at Ovalau. They were set on fire by their crews. Both were American vessels; one was named the Elizabeth, and the other the Canton Packet. We learn that a few weeks since, a mountain tribe of Ovalau made a sudden descent upon page 211the coast of that island, murdering many of the natives, and robbing all the white inhabitants, besides killing the native women.

Samonunu came on board with a dozen others. They had not been here long when some one told them that the Turaga-lavu was coming on board. The ladies appeared frightened, drew themselves into the smallest possible compass, and occupied every nook and cranny that they could find below. As soon as the king was seated on the sofa, they crawled from their hiding places on their hands and knees, and ascended to the deck. Many of these women were of high rank, yet none would dare to assume an upright position in the presence of any chief of rank. The women of Feejee are always seen in parties by themselves, and the men the same. Parties of chiefs, however, do not associate. We should never see Thakombau visit at any place with his father, or any chiefs of high rank in the company of either. If one chief came on board the vessel, he would retire to some remote part, and remain till the first had left. The women never eat with the men, and there is but little social intercourse among them. When a woman meets a chief in a common pathway, she steps from the path, and kneels till he has passed, whatever her rank may be.

We are informed that the chief of Nakalo, finding that Thakombau has violated his promise respecting his sister, who has been given to Navinde, sent word to Garenggeo that if he would return to Rewa, he would assist him to rebuild the town, and defend it. The exiled chief embraced the proposal, returned, and they have rebuilt the place; consequently, hostilities have again commenced between the powers that be. Phillips is still at Nuque.

Thakombau has returned from the war with Natawa. As the Rev. Mr. Williams has forwarded a page 212full account of this celebrated affair to the mission station at Vewa, I shall transcribe it, that the heroism of the Feejeeans may be truly appreciated. He commences his narrative in June, 1846, with the following observations:— "Our soldiers have done no fighting for the last five months. Besides being otherwise employed, it is possible that they think the splendid feats of the former part of the year should suffice for the latter; namely, the capture and entire demolition of two defenceless women, the slaughter of a young lad, and their complete victory over a poor, stray idiot boy. This was the crowning triumph of the year. With reason then, they may now rest upon their illustrious deeds. The Somosomo people have long been waiting for the promised assistance from Bau against their enemies. About the 12th of June, Tuilili, the chief, received certain intelligence of the near approach of his friends and allies, and the following preparations were made for them. Five of the best "buris" were first built, and then five "bolo buris" were added to them, and several other large houses are to be vacated for their use. Thirty-eight thousand yams, besides large quantities of arrow-root, are interspersed among the buildings, and many thousands more of yams are in store for their use. Sixty large turtles are secured, and fishers are continually adding to them. On the opposite land, many pigs are in reserve.

About forty huge bales of native cloth, and hundreds of head-dresses are ready to excite the strangers to deeds of valor, also a completely equipped new canoe, a lot of yanggona brought from Ramba in five canoes, which, when piled, formed a wall thirty-five feet long and seven high.

It was reported that all the warriors had assembled at Vuna. On the 13th, Tuilili with page 213forty of his chief men, joined the Bau party at Vuna to perform the ceremony, when the chiefs were presented with one large bale of masi, forty dresses, and fifty large whales' teeth. The Vuna people prepared food, danced, and presented a quantity of native cloth that excited the surprise of the receivers. Thakombau told Tuilili that he should remain at Vuna during the Sabbath, and on Monday proceed to Somosomo. Tuilili returned to Somosomo with his people on Saturday, and on Monday Thakombau arrived with a fleet of sixty-six large double canoes, and sixteen single ones.

The canoes had scarcely reached the shore, when a succession of shouts from behind the settlement announced the arrival of hundreds who came inland from Vuna. We are informed that the Lasakau people burned several towns on their way to this place, and some natives were killed at the lowering of the masts of some of the Bau canoes. When the Bau chiefs had landed, the ceremony of Qalova was performed, when they received about one hundred dresses, twenty whales' teeth, and a quantity of baked yams, tarro and pigs. On Monday night, the inhabitants of Somosomo, with those of many other towns, were employed in preparing food. On Tuesday, two hundred people were employed till noon in piling food. The warriors passed their time in shouting and in blacking themselves.

The accumulated labors of the cooks were seen in the shape of one large heap of ground tarro puddings, four heaps of baked tarro, and yams covered with arrow-root puddings, and turtles. Seventy turtles were placed by themselves in another heap. These hills of food were flanked on the left with a wall of yanggona, thirty-five feet long and seven high. On the right was a fence of uncooked yams, numbering thirty-eight thousand.

After the food was set in order, a large bale of cloth was brought and placed opposite, leaving a space of two hundred yards between. This was followed by twenty others laid side by side, which elicited from the warriors a shout truly deafening. After a space, a Somosomo chief came to the fence with a train of "masi" sixty yards in length. A stout man had brought a marked dress thus far for him, and then assisted in placing it upon his shoulders. After being thus equipped, the lad marched manfully across the open space to the place where the Bau chiefs sat, when he tossed off his dress, and marched back again amid the shouts of the multitude. He repeated this ceremony five times, leaving a dress each time.

After this, the warriors retired to form themselves into a procession, which entered the western avenue to the arena. Two young chiefs, sons of Tuilili, came running from the town by different ways, raising their fans on high, and kicking up a great dust with their trains of sixty yards in length. They were followed by their father, whose train measured one hundred fathoms. His squire came behind him, bearing an immense dress, and was followed by two hundred men, each bearing a dress hanging in immense folds. Two men came next, with bamboos on their shoulders, from which were suspended four large dresses hanging in bunches. These were followed by one hundred men bearing bales of cloth, who took their seats on and about the cloth, and were joined by one hundred and fifty men, all bearing cloth. The sons of Tuilili, commenced running again, shortening their distance, however, each time as the procession of warriors approached the arena by the easterly entrance. They came in the following order:—

Thakorabau and Tuilili, bearing beautiful spears and clubs.

One hundred men bearing spears and clubs.
Five with two muskets each.
Tea with one musket each.
Five with one musket each.
Ten with two muskets each.
Sixty-eight with one musket each.
Six with two muskets each.
Fifty-one with one musket each.
Two with two muskets each.
Thirteen with oqe musket each.
Two with two muskets each.
Sixty with one musket each.
Twenty carpenters with American axes.
Sixty men with clubs and spears.
One man with bow and arrow.
Twenty-eight with muskets.
Sixty with spears and arrows.
One bearing bows, and a large bundle of arrows.
Thirty with clubs, spears and hatchets.
Sixty-one with muskets.
Forty with clubs, spears and hatchets.
Twenty with muskets.
One hundred with clubs, spears and battle-axes.
Eighty-five with muskets.
Twenty with spears and clubs.
Six with two muskets each.
Twenty-one with muskets.
One old man with a large bundle of spears closed the procession.

The warriors of Bau formed a line four deep in front of the provisions, the musket bearers forming the right, and the club and spear men the left wings. These had scarcely formed in order, when our ears were saluted with the most frightful yells, with clanking of arms and axes. On looking in the direction from whence the sounds proceeded, we observed a large company of the page 216common fighting men, who, after shaking their spears awhile, rushed "en masse" into the open space, some through it, and others over the fence. After these had run, capered and shouted till they were tired, they retired to the seaside, behind the Bau chiefs, waving a white banner whereon were painted several marvellous figures. The enormous bales of cloth were then removed and the shouting again commenced. Tuilili took a hundred whales' teeth upon his shoulders, (he is almost a giant in size, and quite one in strength,) and approaching Thakombau, stooped and made a speech. When he had finished, he arose and returned to his place, bearing the teeth with him. Thakombau then commenced the "mbole, mboling" (thanking) and was followed by many of the chiefs singly,—then by companies of eight and ten each. As the respectability of the company decreased, the numbers increased, all endeavoring by their gestures and words to evince their valor. A Bau chief now took the whales teeth from Tuilili, and other Bau men took about twenty bunches of spears, and laid them at the feet of Thakombau. Several ceremonies connectted with welcoming the Bau warriors to Somosomo were then performed, after which the multitude dispersed with yells, and shouts, and firing of muskets. Thakombau is accompanied by Tubo, the Tonga chief, and his tribe. It is said that the army of Thakombau numbers about three thousand, including the Tonguese.

The warriors having returned, we are able to proceed in our narrative. It appears that the Natawa people were determined to give their enemies battle; and some of their bravest men singled out Thakombau as their victim. The warriors approached so near the fighting fence as to converse with each other. "Where is Thakombau?" asked some. "Here I am," he replied, "I have brought these warriors here." The Natawa people had sheltered themselves in a place difficult of access. The roads are represented as being less than three feet in width, with frightful precipices on either side. When our warriors had gained the small flat on which the town was built, they erected a fence to serve as a guard against the shot of the besieged. Then a brisk, but slightly effective fire, was kept up for some time.

The Somosomo people were desirous to assist in the skirmish, but Thakombau told them not to interfere, for the war was his, and he should manage it. After some firing, the besieged made a sally, and a fine young man, named Mai Vatarovo, was killed. Thakombau shot a man that was in the act of darting a spear at him. This appears to have been the heat of the battle. The be-page 218seiged retired into their town, which the warriors assailed, and succeeded in making a small breach in the fence, when Thakombua stopped all farther proceedings for the day, saying, "We will take the town tomorrow." Whether he intended to give the inhabitants an opportunity to escape, or whether he felt that they had achieved glory enough for one day, is not known; probably the first, as there is reason to suppose that the Bau chiefs had determined that Natawa should not be destroyed, and they engaged in the affair that they might gratify the old king of Somosomo and increase their own powers, by bringing the Somosomo people under an obligation to them, and by bringing the Natawa people to submit to the dominion of Bau. Thus Somosomo has to bear all the expense of the war, while Bau gains all the glory and advantage.

To-morrow came, and the warriors entered the town, where they found the houses standing, and ready to be destroyed, the inmates having fled. The body of a Bau man, who had been killed the day before, was baking in an oven, and the body of another was cut up, ready for cooking. Several towns, which had been vacated during the night, were burned. The spoil collected consisted of four bars of soap, some fishing nets, and a small quantity of cinnet.

The forces next moved to Oro ni Yasatha; against which place Tuilili was very bitter. A fence was built, as before, and a ceaseless fire was kept up for several hours, to the alarm of the women and children. During the night a man stole from the town, and early in the morning was conducted to Thakombau. His business was to inform the chief that the inhabitants wished to "soro" to Bau. He was told that it was good for them to do so. Soon persons appointed were seen approaching, bearing whales' teeth and baskets of earth. The page 219men approached Thakombau, as is their custom, on their knees; first presenting the teeth as their "soro," and then the baskets of earth, to signify their full surrender of their lands to Bau. The "soro" waa accepted, and notice sent to Tuilili, who replied, "If it is good to you, it is well." After the "soro" was accepted, the Somosomo people amused themselves by throwing stones, and even firing at the Oro ni Yasatha fence, which, coming to the ears of Thakombau, caused him to send to know who it was that continued hostilities after he had said "Let there be peace. The people have submitted to Bau; and had they not have done so, I should have finished them. I have said that they shall live;—they shall live."

The Natawa people did not "soro" so readily, but fled from one fastness to another, till at length a Bau chief, well known to them, was sent to inquire why they conducted in this manner. They replied, "We mean to 'soro.' Will you be of a good mind, and present our 'soro' to Bau? not to Somosomo, for they will be sure to kill us." The Bau chiefs could not agree to their proposal, and the Natawa chiefs were afraid to go themselves to offer their "soro." At length they concluded to send six youths, with the teeth and earth, as representatives. The "soro" was accepted, peace was declared, and the war ended.

Tuilili, with his company, returned very quietly. A few days after, about fifty canoes returned with shouting, beating of drums, firing of muskets, blowing of conch shells, &c. Several of the warriors left for Bau on the Thakandrove side, where they amused themselves by destroying plantations, placing traps for the destruction of the unwary, &c.

In the course of a few days, the Somosomo people danced before the Bau people, and left large quantities page 220of native cloth for Bail. Hundreds of musquito curtains and marked cloths have been presented since the return of the warriors. The people complain that there is nothing left. The Bau people are complaining of their bill of fate since their return, having nothing to subsist upon but tarro and land crabs. They indulge in observations like the following:—"How many men are there in Somosomo,—a hundred, or not?"—"Natawa has nothing to fear."—" This is a land for pork, but where are the pigs?"—" This is a land of plenty," said Thakomhau, "aplenty of water, and a plenty of impudence." The Somosomo people make the following remarks:— "This has been a bad war, a useless war. Bau hates us, and we will be revenged." The Natawa people say: —"We shall know Bau only. We have long been tired of 'soroing' to a people that are never satisfied. We do not always wish to be hearing of clubs and ovens. Why should they ever be baking our people?"

Somosomo is just as much at enmity with Natawa as ever, but their hands are tied; they can do nothing now unless they brave the displeasure of Bau, which they are not in a condition to do. The bodies of the slain were all presented to Tuilili, who, with his people, devoured them. A part of one was sent to Thakombau after it was cooked, but he sent it away untouched.

I have now given a fair specimen of Feejeean wars, how their battles are fought and their victories won. It is well for the population of Feejee, that its warriors do not possess the skill and tact of the warriors of civilised lands.

The following ceremony of anointing a successful warrior, was furnished me by Mr. Hunt, who was an eyewitness of the same.

"The ceremony commenced by several old men chanting a piece to the following effect. 'Let us attend to the ceremony of the chiefs who have killed our enemies.' After this had been repeated several times, the king called out for the warriors in a most unnatural tone, using words that appear to be kept for such occasions only. He asks who they are, and gives them a new name. This being done, some very curious chanting followed, accompanied by the blowing of conch shells, the effect of which is utterly indescribable; the tones were most unnatural, and the words ridiculous. The art of blowing the conch appeared to be to make as short a sound as possible, resembling the short base notes in a quick march, and was about as harmonious as such sounds usually are, without the combination of other sounds necessary to constitute music. Those who responded, made a noise resembling the creaking of a door that needed oiling. This performance was continued for a very long time, the actors appearing to attach great importance to it. At its conclusion, five men took a large banana leaf each, and a person poured water in them. They held these in their hands a short time, and then stood so as to form a diameter of the circle of actors. After exchanging places several times, they poured the water on the ground. This appeared to represent the pouring out of the blood of the rest of their enemies, as the actors chanted, 'Pour it out,—pour it out,—amen,—amen.' This finished the introductory part of the ceremony.

The heroes were now introduced. One of them had page 222never killed a person in war before, and was, consequently, introduced first. He was accompanied by a person bearing a large new dress, and others with mats. The latter were placed on the ground for the honored one to stand upon. An old man disrobed the hero, and arrayed him in his new dress. The dress was of native cloth, folded lengthwise. A part of it was folded around the person of the warrior, and the remainder placed so as to form a large bunch on the back, and the hero now appeared like a soldier with a knapsack on. While this was taking place, three parties of females appeared in different parts of the 'rara,' each holding a wooden bowl containing an ointment composed of the stock of the banana, oil and tumeric. These ointment bearers approached slowly, repeating words that I did not understand, and after placing the bowls on the mats, retired. The other heroes now advanced, but as they had killed men in war before, they came dressed. Each hero bore a club on his shoulders, which was removed by the attendants, and others placed in their stead. These again were replaced by others, and so on, till about twenty were handled in this manner. It seemed to be considered a great privilege to possess a club that had been handled by the heroes.

After this came the anointing. The king's house steward divided tbe ointment, and persons appointed for the occasion, daubed the heroes from head to feet, which being concluded, the whole party repaired to the seaside, and the ceremonies ended. The heroes are required to remain in the 'rara' four days. A shed is erected for their shelter at night, and to screen them from the noon-day sun; but they are not allowed to lie down, or take their clubs from their shoulders. During page 223these four days no drum is allowed to be beaten, or any noise to be made, and the heroes are treated, in every respect, like great chiefs. At the expiration of this time, the warriors doff all their honors but their new name, (which is usually the one that was borne by the person whom they had killed,) and become ordinary men again." Thakombau visited the bark to-day, and was received with a salute of three large guns. Of course we felt exceedingly honored by the visit of this Napoleon of Feejee, —this illustrious conqueror. He has not returned ladened with the spoils of the conquered,—the soap and cinnet having been sold to the mission for a trifle; but what of that?—he killed a man himself, and his braves, consisting of an army of three thousand, besides killing ten or twelve men, set fire to as many as three hundred straw houses with nothing in them. To be serious, however, he has been a conqueror in the late war, and in the very best way he obtained the victory with comparatively little bloodshed. He had no enmity towards Natawa, but was actuated only by the desire of conquest. In this he is unlike the former chiefs of Feejee, who only fought to revenge some real or fancied injury, and have ever delighted more in butchering and devouring their kind than any thing else.