Chapter XI
Riccarton.

At this point we must pause in our family story, that we may turn our attention to the first British settlement on the Canterbury Plains, eight years before those Plains bore their name viz., that of the Messrs. Deans Bros on the Riccarton Estate. As Mrs. Deans, senr., has given us permission, we shall tell the story in her own words, quoted in extracts from an account of these early days she wrote for the N.Z. Country Journal of November, 1882, Their story, so intimately associated with our own at this period, is of great interest, showing the foundation of one of New Zealand's most valuable estates, and the undaunted energy and enterprise that characterised those earliest South Island pioneers. For the sake of sequence and conciseness' we give in this chapter the chief points of interest connected with Riccarton settlement, so far as relates to the first fourteen years, viz., from 1842 till 1856, as preferable to incorporating the story with our own. Mrs. Deans' kindness in allowing us to use selections from her own records of these times enables us to give a clear and accurate- account of them:—

" In the autumn of 1842 the plains (now known as the Canterbury Plains), then a very wilderness, had been page 139

Canterbury Plains—from Bridle Path, Port Hills.

page 140abandoned for the second time as unfit for colonisation, first by Messrs. Cooper and Levy, or their agents, and then by Mr. Heriot, agent for Messrs. Abercrombie and Co., two rival firms of Sydney. Previous to 1840, Messrs-Cooper and Levy traded with the natives of the Middle Island of New Zealand in flax, &c, giving their names to the Plains and two Bays. One of their vessels was lost with all hands and the speculation given up. The late Mr. W. B. Rhodes, of Wellington, landed cattle at Akaroa in 1839 without settling there. In 1840 or 1841, Mr. James Heriot, from Berwickshire and Canada, was sent from Sydney by the firm of Abercrombie and Co., and brought two teams of bullocks and two men servants, Ellis and McKinnon, as well as the wife of the latter. They all camped at what was then known as Potoringamotu (the place of an echo), but what is now Riccarton), and began to cultivate to a limited extent; they had a good crop, but the native rats devoured it, and this, with a dread of the bar at the mouth of the river, so discouraged them that they abandoned the place after about eight months' residence, and left behind them a stack of straw. About thirty acres of land were ploughed up, and either Mr. Heriot or one of his men was the first to stick a plough in the soil of Canterbury. The McKinnons afterwards settled on the Peninsula, and Ellis returned and was partner with (Gartner in the Golden Fleece Hotel, Christchurch. There is no tradition of Messrs. Cooper and Levy having cultivated any land.

"Between 1840 and 1842, William Deans, of Kirkstyle, Riccarton, Ayrshire, Scotland, who came to Wellington in 1840 in the "Aurora" (one of the first four ships to Wellington), seeing no prospect of getting possession of the laud in Wellington that he had purchased from the New Zealand Company in London before leaving, owing to the page 141unsettled temper of the natives, and to its being covered with timber, and in the midst of country claimed by various tribes, sailed with Captain Daniells and others along the east coast of the Middle Island as far as the Bluff, and decided on making his home on Port Cooper Plains, provided his brother John, then on his way to the Colony, joined him in the venture.

"John landed at Nelson from the ship 'Thomas Harrison' on the 25th October, 1842, and being disappointed and dissatisfied with his section of land there (which he had also bought in London), at once determined to join his brother, and decided to try and effect an exchange of their laud orders at a future time. So, with the permission of the then existing Government, and with more courage and hope of success than his predecessors showed, William Deans having twice seen the Plains, and being fully persuaded that sooner or later they would become the site for a large British settlement, left Wellington on 11th February, 1843, in Mr. Sinclair's schooner 'Richmond,' and arrived at Port Levy about ten days after. He brought with him John Gebbie, his wife and three children, Samuel Manson, his wife and three children, as well as poultry, provisions, and timber to erect a house. A few old whalers had settled at Port Levy with the Maoris, and near them the women and children were left for a few weeks with John Gebbie as protector. Wm. Deans made what arrangements were necessary with Mr. Robinson, the Magistrate at Akaroa, who had instructions from Government to render what assistance he could, and then with S. Manson and a few others sailed up the River Avon in a whaleboat as far as the Bricks (so named because bricks for building chimneys were landed by them there), and thence in a canoe to the large pool at the bend of the river (above Woods' mill), then up the river banks through tall page 142fern to Potoringamotu, now Riccarton, where they erected the first house built on the Plains. It was built of wood put together with wooden pegs, which were made in the tents in the evenings, and which had to take the place of nails, which were unfortunately left behind in Wellington.^*

First House Built at Riccarton by the late Mr. John Deans.
"The Old Barn."

In May it was finished, and Manson went to Port Levy for John Gebbie and the women and children. They followed the same route, as before described.

"The Messrs. Greenwood came down from Wellington soon after this time and settled at Purau, bringing provisions with them. They were not permanent settlers, however, as we shall hereafter see.

" A few weeks after Mr. W. Deans left Wellington, John Deans also sailed from there by the first chance to New-castle for stock, and arrived at Port Cooper (now Lyttelton) by 'Princess Royal,' on 17th June, after a passage of 2l days, bringing with him 61 head of cattle, 3 mares, and 43 sheep, all of a good class. A larger number of sheep were bought, bat were not delivered in time before the ship sailed, and he lost on the passage 6 steers and heifers and 1 mare. He also brought seed wheat, seed oats, and page 144barley. Lucerne seed, and potatoes. It was no easy matter bringing the stock home after landing—first the hills to climb, and then the swamps and boggy creeks to encounter on the plains, but the task though difficult was accomplished successfully….

Mr. Wm. Deans had brought a small hand steel flour-mill with him from Wellington, and at it each (as amusement) took a turn in the evenings to grind the flour for their bread. It ground 40lbs. an hour. In January, 1844, they had broken in and milked 20 cows, from which they made cheese and butter of excellent quality, which obtained a high name in Sydney. They had also cleared three roods of garden ground of fern and tree stumps, and had good crops of cabbages,, peas, potatoes, onions, leeks, and parsnips, but carrots, turnips, melons, cucumbers, &c., were eaten off by a small fly as soon as brairded. They had also planted strawberries, but without success, and apple and plum trees. They came as Colonists to put their shoulder to the wheel. In two years' time, besides the above-mentioned work, they had built three houses at Riccarton (Manson chief carpenter). All these buildings are still in use, and one of them for strength and finish will bear favourable comparison with any wooden house since erected on the Plains.^* Two bridges were also built, and cattle sheds and yards erected. Mr. J. Deans and J. Gebbie reploughed the ground formerly broken up by Heriot, and broke up several acres of new land where the insignis trees are now growing, west of the gully in Hagley Park. Their crops were good, their barley was early, and they reaped it on Christmas Day. The grain was threshed with flails.

"The little community was composed of Scotch Presbyterians from Ayrshire, and began to long for a pastor. The Settlement was occasionally visited by the Roman Catholic priest who had charge of the French settlers at Akaroa, and the late Bishop Selwyn sometimes visited the Settlement on his missionary tours. The families on the Peninsula bought descendants of cattle landed at Akaroa in 1830 by the late Mr. W. B. Rhodes, of Wellington.

The Old House at Riccarton.

"In May, 1845, the Mansons and Gebbies took up their own selections at the head of the bay, where their families still remain. They left Riccarton on a fine calm morning, but before reaching the bar of the river at Sumner the wind had risen and the bar was very rough. The women and children were landed, and remained in a cave all night hungry and cold. The whaleboat was capsized on the bar, and Wm. Deans saved his life by clinging to a box of tea….

"The surveyors of the Otago Settlement took a view of these plains, but thinking them beyond the capabilities of the promoters and intending colonists, passed on to Otago.

" In 1846 there was a fine crop of wheat at Riccarton, sown after potatoes, yielding from 60 to 70 bushels per acre. The potatoes were ploughed in, and afterwards dug round with spades. Over 30 tons were grown on 2½ acres. More fruit trees were then planted—apple, plum, cherry, peach, and pear trees, also gooseberries and currants. That was the most severe winter they had known-storms, frost, rain, and snow leaving the ground so wet that no wheat could be sown that year.

"In 1846, after squatting three years, the brothers Deans obtained permission from Government to lease land from the natives, who were still owners of the soil. The first lease of land on the Plains was entered into and signed by the brothers Deans and the Maori owners on the 3^rd December. That was another step towards successful colonisation. Regularly, as rent day came round, the landlords came for their rent (sometimes no easy matter to provide, although the amount was small), and a great feasting on pigs, potatoes, sugar, flour, and rice lasted for about a week each year. Not long before the advent of the white man the inhabitants (Maoris) of this part of the Middle Island had been subdued by old Rauparaha (of Wairau massacre notoriety) a famous fighting chief from near Cook's Straits, who decimated the tribes to such an extent that they were reduced to a mere remnant. The natives were always most friendly, and looked upon the white people more as protectors than as enemies.

" In 1847 the Otago settlers arrived at their destination. The Messrs. Rhodes bought Purau from the Greenwoods, page 147who, with Mr. Caverhill, took up Motonau run. John Deans returned to New South Wales for a second shipment of stock, arriving again at mid-winter in the 'Comet' (a small vessel) with 600 sheep and some steers, the latter for killing purposes. Mr. William Deans returned to Wellington by the same vessel, and took with him 15 fat bullocks, which, after a long passage, averaged 900 lbs., and which he sold to Government contractors at 5¾d. per 1b.…

River Avon.

" 1848.—The New Zealand Land Company had now purchased from the natives, with the Governor's consent, all the land along the East Coast, and the Messrs. Deans were enabled at last to effect an exchange of their Wellington, Manawatu, and Nelson land orders for an equal amount (400 acres) at Potoringamotu, which they now named Riccarton, after their native parish in Ayrshire. The district was afterwards so named in compliment to the estate. They named the river Avon after the Avon page 148flowing into the Clyde near Hamilton: it bounded their grandfather's property in Lanarkshire.^* …

"In 1849 Sir George and Lady Grey spent a few days with the Messrs. Deans at Riccarton, and afterwards presented them with some Cape oak trees—the first planted on the plains. The surveyors for the Canterbury Association had arrived, and were busy preparing for the expected settlers. The map of Riccarton was drawn and signed on 22nd August. 1849, by Captain Thomas, agent for the Canterbury Association, as approved in accordance with agreement made by Mr. (now Sir William) Fox in December. 1848 Riccarton was the first estate reserved on the Plains though numbered 163 on the surveyor's maps placed after instead of before the Pilgrim selections.…

"In 1850 the Messrs. Deans made large additions to their stock which had much increased. Some of their wool that year brought 1s. 6d. per lb. in London. They also had a large variety of trees sent out oak and ash, white-thorn, hedge plants, fruit trees, broom, gorse, poplars willows, etc., besides varieties of seeds.…

It was about this time that Mr. Godley, in his zeal for the Pilgrim settlers, then arriving in successive detachments, disputed the Messrs. Deans' right to their frèehold of Riccarton and lease from the natives, etc., (which dispute is fully described in Chapter x., Mr. Hay being equally involved in the trouble). The matter being eventually settled in Messrs. Deans' favour, without them having to go to law as was expected, they made choice of Homebush run, in the Malvern district, in exchange forpart given up in favour of the new Settlement.

"It was to replace sheep sold along with their interest in Dalethorpe run, to defray the expected law expenses, that Mr. Wm. Deans set forth on the ill-fated 'Maria' to Sydney, via Wellington (where he was expected to take his place as J.P. on the Bench), when he met his death by drowning near Wellington on January 23rd, 1851, at the early age of 34. All on board were lost save one. Besides the lives lost—28—they lost a large cargo of butter and cheese from the various dairies. The population by first census return, taken February 17th, 1852, was 1200. The crops this year were good—500 acres grown on the plains, one-fifth of which was grown at Riccarton.…

"On January 1st, 1852, Mr. John Deans sailed for Home, leaving Mr. Williams in charge till his return. Mr. Williams's sudden death in March following cast page 150another dark cloud over the small community. Mrs. Williams (now Mrs. Cass) was indefatigable in her efforts

Mr. John Deans.

in her efforts to fill her late husband's place in the management of the farming operations, and when Mr. John page 151Deans returned with his wife and many notable fellow-passengers, including the late Mr. Douglas Graham, by the 'Minerva,' in 1853, he found all in good order. Mr. Deans brought out with him a dog-cart (the first conveyance on springs in the place) made by Croal in Edinburgh, and with it a single and tandem harness. He also brought a water-power threshing machine, with iron wheel by Taylor, in Ayr (these are still in use), and in addition various other farm and dairy utensils for himself, the Hays, Gebbies, Prebbles, and Mansons.…

"As an example of the quiet way in which Mr. J. Deans tried to instil hope and courage into desponding settlers a little anecdote may be mentioned. On some of the passengers landing and returning to the 'Minerva' with woeful accounts of the unproductiveness of the country—the hills around Lyttelton—'not even fit to grow cabbages,' Mr. Deans quietly took note, went home, cut a twig laden with ripe fruit from one of his plum trees, took it into port, and laid it quietly on the ship's table, thereby putting to silence those who would disparage the prospects of the country.…

"In 1854 (on the 23rd of June) Mr. J. Deans died after a lingering illness, at the same age as his brother: viz., 34. The estate then fell into a twenty years' trustee-ship, and was worked harmoniously by Mr. Douglas Graham, manager, until his death in 1872, till the heir, Mr. John Deans, came of age in 1874.…

"In 1855 the whole community was thrown into a state of alarm and excitement by a severe earthquake, followed by slight shocks for several weeks. About this time wages rose, and farmers found it necessary to invest in machines of various kinds for labour-saving" In 1856 the first reaping machine was imported to Riccarton—"Bell's page 152Improved '—a clumsy affair compared with the finished articles of the present day. Other farmers imported threshing machines, and in a few years reapers and threshers were numerous on the plains. …

"There were only two native bushes in the vicinity of Christchurch—the one at Papanui, and the one at Riccarton. The Papanui bush contained about 200 acres, and it was sold in small sections to various pilgrim settlers, who soon cut it down, and in a few years it had entirely disappeared. The Riccarton bush, when surveyed in 1849, contained about 50 acres, one half of which was given up and cut down. As an illustration of the state of the swamp through which the Riccarton Road was made, a few of the older settlers may remember the logs of wood being floated down the ditches as far as the railway gates, the roadway being too soft to carry loads; even as late as 1858 (a wet winter) it took about half an hour to drive that distance. The remaining part of the bush has been preserved as well as possible, in accordance with the late Mr. J. Deans' wishes, no timber being now cut up except fallen timber, which is used for fencing purposes, the aim being to preserve the bush as long as possible. It has been planted round and throughout with forest trees wherever timber has been cut for building purposes, the gaps being filled with oaks, ashes, elms, gums, etc., as the soil appeared suitable for one or other. This was done before Sir J. Vogel enunciated his native forest preservation scheme. The planted trees have done well, but the result has not been what was desired, for instead of protecting the young native trees they have smothered them out—in summer, by the shade, and in winter by the falling leaves. Previous to 1879 over 100 varieties of forest trees had been planted on Riccarton, and there was a fair sprinkling of native trees already in the bush." …