(From the American Lithographer and Printer.)

Printing on Tinfoil.—The impression is at first made from the stone on to a rubber roller and from this roller the ink is rolled or transferred off again upon the tin plate. There has lately been invented a steam press, which we think has also been patented. This press is working in the same plan, and the main principle is that the rubber has the qualification of taking a much sharper impression than any kind of paper in the market, and by its elasticity has also the nature of printing smooth and solid on a hard surface, even if the same is uneven. If the ink becomes too hard, by printing several colors on top of each other, add to the first color you print a trifle of yellow wax with venetian turpentine. This will prevent the trouble, and the ink will lift readily.

(From the Pacific Printer.)

Shining Black Ink.—The best shining black ink, used for mourning paper, and the manufacture of which has up to the present time been kept a secret by the makers, may be prepared, according to the Papier Zeitung, of lampblack, borax and shellac. The ink is made as follows: In one quart of hot water two ounces of borax is dissolved, and to this solution about three times the quantity of shellac is added. After this mixture has been properly dissolved, the necessary quantity of lampblack is put in, the whole being constantly stirred. If the lustre be not satisfactory, the proportion of shellac is increased.

(From the British and Colonial Printer and Stationer.)

Glossy Writing Ink.—Any common writing ink can be made glossy by adding to it a little gum arabic or white sugar. If the latter is used care must be had not to use too much, else the mixture will be sticky when dry, and if too much of either gum or sugar is used the ink will become too thick to flow well.

Green Varnish for Metals.—For a green transparent varnish for metals, grind a small quantity of chinese blue with double the quantity of finely-powdered chromate of potash (it requires the most elaborate grinding); add a sufficient quantity of copal varnish thinned with turpentine. The tone may be altered by adding more or less of one or the other ingredients.

Hints to Draughtsmen.—A practical draughtsman in Wood and Iron gives the following simple suggestions, which will likely prove useful to some reader:—(1) In mixing up inks, the process is very much expedited by heating the dish and water in which it is mixed before commencing. It often happens in the summer that the flies walk over a tracing and eat off the ink in a very provoking manner. The use of vinegar instead of water will prevent this. In making a tracing, the cloth will take the ink much better if it is rubbed over with chalk. (2) Tracing-cloth that has been rolled up may be straightened out effectually and expeditiously by drawing it over the edge of a table or drawing-board, holding it down meantime with an ordinary three-cornered scale. (3) When there are a large number of drawings made and kept, a great deal of trouble and confusion can be avoided by making all the drawings on extra standard sizes. If a size of 16 by 24 inches be adopted, then the next larger size would be equal to two of these, or 24 by 32 inches. This enlarging or reducing process may be carried as far as the circumstances require, but it is always best to do it by the doubling or halving process if possible. One of the advantages of standard sizes of drawings is that they may be kept in a case of drawers, the size of which is made to accommodate the standard sizes selected.

(From the Scientific American.)

Amateur Bookbinding.—Pack the papers smoothly, hold firmly, and drive a thin chisel through the pile about half-an-inch from the back. Push a strong tape through, and leave out about two inches; put three or four tapes through at even intervals; cut common thick paper boards large enough to project a little everywhere, except that one edge must come front of the tapes; draw the tapes tightly and glue down to the boards outside; skive a piece of leather—common sheepskin will answer—wide enough to cover the back and come on the boards an inch or two, and long enough to project a couple of inches at the end; paste the leather well; put it on the back; fold the ends in so as to come over the boards on each side; paste any fancy or plain paper over the sides, and, lastly, paste the blank leaf down to the cover side, and you have a presentable book, and very durable. Trimming the edges can be easily done by clamping between boards and cutting the edges with a thin sharp knife and a straight-edge. Of course, this is done before the boards are put on, after the tapes are in. This makes a flat-edged book, but for a thin book answers very well.