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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 14, Issue 2 (May 1, 1939)

An Inland Voyage Ninety Years Ago

An Inland Voyage Ninety Years Ago

The high canoe chant of the canoe captains rang like war cries along the Wanganui in the misty morning of a July day in 1849, when Donald Maclean and Richard Taylor began this visitation cruise. “A fine grey dusky morning,” Mr. Maclean wrote in his diary, “packed, washed and started up the river at a quarter to eight. The banks on each side presented a grand picture of high cliffs, overhung with vegetation from dark brown to verdant green to the highest trees; and from the highest trees to the smallest shrubs, with overhanging plants on the most desirable exposures for their growth. In the foreground, at some of the bends, the sun pierced through the mist, and reflected on our splashing paddles, as each canoe in front pressed up against the force of the fresh, our own natives eagerly singing their shrill canoe songs, and happy with the prospect of arriving in good time at Hikurangi, a populous pa on the river. A little racing between the canoes enlivened them; and the females distinguished by their mild voices, even in the thick mist, where their bodies were concealed, gave the scene a romantic charm that is peculiar to New Zeland. The simplicity of the natives, and their kind attention and courteous treatment of travellers makes such journeys as this most agreeable.”

The Rev. Richard Taylor and his friend, the Government Agent and Land Purchase Commissioner, Donald Maclean, frequently joined forces in Wanganui River expeditions. On this occasion they were bound to a far-up tribe in a remote and wild country seldom visited. Maclean's Ms. notes tell the story: Some pigeon and other game were killed by the chief Kawana's son, who was in Kingi Hori's canoe, where the Union Jack was erected, and the greenstone mere, the emblem of chieftainship, was conspicuously placed in the chief's belt; that the pakehas might see that while he respected the Queen's emblem of sovereignty (the flag) by having it in his canoe, he did not neglect those of his own nation.

The first night was spent at the pretty kainga of Hikurangi. There more Maoris joined them for a great church assembly or hui which was to greet the missionary away up the Manganui-a-te-Ao, which Mr. Maclean wished to see.

“Leaving in the morning, we were much amused by the chattering set up by the ladies who were not accompanying their husbands to the hui. They collected on the bank below their pa, just above our canoe. Some of the men were apparently indifferent to what passed among the fair sex; but they were not insensible of the treasures they were leaving behind them, however much they might appear to neglect them when in their presence. Ladies, however agreeable their company in other parts of the world, are not permitted to join us in our canoe. The women, determined as usual, to have the ascendancy, had taken a canoe of their own, poled and paddled by themselves, a few old grey-headed men, and a tribe of young boys, who are always ready for any extraordinary service or exploit that may chance to cast up. A party of these young chiefs are squatted on the house-tops to watch our movements, as we sweep up against the stream.

“A few miles brought us to Pukehika, the termination of Hori Kingi's boundary on this river. Next we called at the beautiful pa situated on the opposite side, called Pa-te-Arero. This
(Rly. Publicity photo.) Fern-trees Cliff on the Upper Wanganui.

(Rly. Publicity photo.) Fern-trees Cliff on the Upper Wanganui.

is delightfully situated within a lovely karaka grove, and is one of the chief pas of the rebel chiefs up this river. A fine clay-walled church of large dimensions is being erected; which indicated a disposition for peace on the part of this tribe. If New Zealand had a few more zealous Missionaries like Mr. Taylor, we should have fewer wars. But this most populous district seems to have been wholly abandoned to one labourer; whereas it would require four to render their services efficient. One of these should be situated among the scattered tribes of Tuhua and the Manganui-a-te-Ao; where the natives are becoming unsettled.

The Merry Hearts.

“We reached Pipiriki at 2 p.m., after a pleasant pull, the weather proving more favourable than we had expected since we left the mouth of the Wanganui.

“What a cheerful, happy race the page 15 New Zealanders are! Their wants are easily supplied, and their cares comparatively few. Even if they have a large family of children, each inherits his land and property, and is independent, having, as increasing numbers may require, the hunting grounds and forests to fall back upon; and in this part of the colony, little fear of coming in contact with civilized men.

“An elderly native told me that rewha-rewha, that raging disease so destructive to the New Zealanders, prevailed when he was about five years old. He remembers the numbers that used to be buried indiscriminately in one hole; when the disease ravaged this populous part of New Zealand. This circumstance brings the date of the disease to a late period, later than I had officially noticed, by some ten years.

“We rest, to-night, at a house built for the Rev. Richard Taylor; which is comfortable and convenient, enabling us to enjoy our reading and writing, with the aid of a table; which cannot be found in tent-travelling, or, as yet, at the native villages.

“Thursday, 14th July, 1849.—A fine morning. Refreshed by sleep, but rather disturbed by dreams and premonitions during the night. How far they may be considered of any import, or not, I have not yet decided as fully as I should wish.

“Last night I got a knock on the forehead, above the left eye-brow, against the centre-pole that supported the house, having come to the kitchen to look for some firewood. It drew some blood, and this was observed by the natives in the morning. They seemed anxious about the consequences of this slight scar; and asked me if they would knock down the post, house, and all, as utu for the injury I sustained; or if, in accordance with their custom, I should claim the land; or if they should cleave posts and dig some land to designate where this accident befel me. All our canoe boys said this morning, ‘Let us have some utu for your injury; or let us show that it requires some notice.’ This is a custom among the natives, to claim the land where an accident befalls any of their chiefs, especially if blood is drawn on the spot.

At the Canoe-Head.

“We had a strong pull up the river; and about two o'clock in the afternoon entered the branch called the Manganui-a-te-Ao, where the rapids are very numerous and difficult to ascend. Our natives fought the rapids admirably; and as evening was setting in, we got to Te Arero, a fort on a high hill. The numerous canoes on the river, the white foam on the rapids; the industrious groups of men, women, and children, with dogs, pigs, and cats made up the motley crowd that were passing to Pehi's meeting; discussing religion, feasting, politics, land; and for all a little change and excitement.

“About 100 canoes are hauled up at this place. The owners are scattered in happy groups, like so many gipsies, around the pa. The landing of the canoes, the passing of natives in the shallows of the river, with their long poles over their shoulders, and happy greetings, though shivering at the time with cold, was a picture of great interest to us, who viewed them to great advantage in the deep glen where we were camped.

“We slept at Te Arero, where Pehi's lands commence, and where he is considered to be a large claimant of a country in which he is not likely to be disturbed during the present generation.

A Savage Bit of Country.

“Next day (Friday, 15th July, 1849), it rained very heavily. We started at 9 a.m. for Otaki, on the Manganui-a-te-Ao, where the hui is assembled; and crossed a most hilly, dangerous, slippery road, up hill and down dale. The mist was hanging thickly over the cliffs, leaving a beautiful mountain scene to burst unappreciated on the eye, as we scrambled over cliffs that looked so precipitous that you seemed about to fall head-long into a horrid abyss. We arrived at Otaki about 2 p.m. after travelling a distance of six or seven miles from Te Arero.

“The encampments of Otaki were most picturesque. Tents of blankets,
(Rly. Publicity photo.) On the upper reaches of the Wanganui.

(Rly. Publicity photo.) On the upper reaches of the Wanganui.

and calico, and toetoe huts, spread themselves on various embankments around the pa, which is surrounded, except at the entrance, by high rocks. The rain continued to pour, but there was no diminution in the busyness and chatter of the natives, who were running about for shelter, and erecting houses in all directions.

“It is quite a politic act for an Agent of Government to be present at such meetings, to hear what is discussed among the Maoris, and to correct the erroneous impressions that gain ground amongst them respecting the proceedings and intentions of the Government. Such feasts or assemblies as these, under the direction of old and influential chiefs, are productive of great good; as they engross the native mind with the subject, and prevent worse feelings from gaining ground. They are naturally a people fond of change and excitement, and something to occupy the mind should be encouraged.