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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 14, Issue 1 (April 1, 1939)

Gateway to the Spenser Mountains

page 21

Gateway to the Spenser Mountains

Lake Roto-iti and the Travers Valley

An unnamed waterfall on a tributary of the Travers River.

An unnamed waterfall on a tributary of the Travers River.

As a member of the climbing party associated with the conquest of Mt. Tapuaenuku (9,467 ft.) described by my friend, F. G. Fitzgerald, in an article in the “New Zealand Railways Magazine” for October, 1938, there came back to me a memory of the magnificent view which we obtained from the summit of that noble peak—a view of the entire province of Marlborough. Inspiring as this was, my eyes turned constantly in another direction—to the west. On the jagged skyline some fifty miles away a row of peaks soared into the cobalt sky and I recalled the time when I had accompanied a small party to the seldom visited area which lies to the south of Lakes Roto-iti and Roto-roa in the sunny neighbouring province of Nelson.

Lake Roto-iti! A blue gem of purest lapis-lazuli in a setting of jade. Especailly on this warm, summer day on which I write, when Wellington folk are attracted to the bays and beaches, I can visualise it, as it appeared to me that day from the northern shore.

The white wraiths that were the morning mists were being wafted from the shadowed valleys. Directly opposite on the southern bank began the Travers Valley, our immediate destination. To the west was the range (on which we hoped to climb) which ended near the head of the valley in that inspiring “little Matterhorn,” Mt. Travers, 7,666 ft. To the east the St. Arnaud Range ran parallel, joining the western range some miles up the valley.

I cannot imagine a more perfect starting place than Roto-iti for those energetic ones who would explore the mountain chains among which the principal rivers of Nelson have their sources.

In a report to the Provincial Government at Nelson, in 1861, of his explorations and geological findings, Sir Julius von Haast describes his impressions of the lake thus:—

“It was with the greatest delight
Little Twin Peak (7,190 ft.) from Mt. Travers (7,666 ft.).

Little Twin Peak (7,190 ft.) from Mt. Travers (7,666 ft.).

that I looked over this beautiful lake; its deep blue waters reflected the high rocky mountain chains on its eastern and southern shores, which for a considerable height from the water's edge (from which they rise abruptly), swarmed with birds, giving life to this magnificent scene.

“Its peaceful aspect was, however, soon changed, for a heavy storm came up from the westward; and the thunder, re-echoing a hundred times from the mountain ravines, filled us with admiring awe.

“Towards evening the weather cleared, a magnificent rainbow threw its arch across the lake, and the setting sun gilded with deep hues the snow which streaked the serrated peaks of the surrounding mountain chains.”

A tribute to the valuable work done by Haast in 1859 in this area was paid by the distinguished Dr. Ferdinand von Hochstetter with whom Haast was associated as chief field assistant and topographer. He wrote: “From the Roto-iti Lake, I saw the mighty summits of the southern mountain chains, page 22 page 23
A typical peak (unnamed and unclimbed) In the Spenser Mountains.

A typical peak (unnamed and unclimbed) In the Spenser Mountains.

covered with snow and ice and which my friend and fellow-traveller, Dr. Haast has since so successfully ex-explored, with a most courageous perseverance, and under a great many difficulties and privations.”

The lake can be crossed by launch or, if one prefers, it is a pleasant walk of some five miles around the eastern side. Those who are shouldering heavy ruc-sacs containing many days' provisions, will doubtless prefer the former mode of travel.

As one tramps up the Travers Valley, over grassy flats near its mouth and further south along deer tracks in the beech forests which stretch to the banks of the river, it is impossible not to be impressed by the sheer grandeur and beauty that unravels before the eyes.

Among the interesting features of the mountain torrents that flow into the Travers River from the side valleys, are the waterfalls. Gazing at but one of these that cascade over great rocky bluffs, one can readily believe that if but a few of them were in some of our more popular and accessible tourist areas, they would be advertised as outstanding attractions and pointed to with justifiable pride. Here, however, they remain unknown and unnamed.

A stream from the western range flowing into the river near the head of the valley, if followed, takes one to an immense natural amphitheatre where on the long sweep of the range above tower three majestic peaks over seven thousand feet high. They are the main sentinels rising above this fairyland, hidden from the haunts of men. From north to south they are Mt. Hopeless, Little Twin Peak and Mt. Travers.

From Roto-iti, the main Travers Valley gradually rises and the head of the valley is over 4,000 feet above sea level. It is here a little brook trickles down the gentle slopes and the realisation comes to one that here is the actual source of the mighty Buller River.

“From such small beginnings …”

The view from the valley's head is indeed an extensive one, but nothing to be compared with that from the summit of Mt. Travers, 7,666 ft. From this lofty mountain summit the vista southward baffles adequate description. As far as the eye can see, hundreds of serrated, blue-grey mountain peaks, capped with snow, stretch to and beyond the borders of Canterbury. Rugged, wild country this, of which Dr. James Park said over fifty years ago: “Although occupying a prominent position in the Province of Nelson, this important mountain region is almost unknown.”

To-day his words still apply, and a fervent desire comes to one to tread those far summits and explore the lonely valleys at their bases.

A scene in the Upper Travers Valley, showing Mt. Hopeless, 7,274 ft.

A scene in the Upper Travers Valley, showing Mt. Hopeless, 7,274 ft.

Air-Raid Precautions
Work of British Firms

Mr. D. Winright Rodie (the elder son of a former Commercial Manager, New Zealand Railways) in a recent letter, gives some interesting information regarding the very comprehensive preparations being made in Great Britain by leading firms for protection against gas attacks. Mr. Rodie, who trained at Leylands, in Lancashire, and with the Midland Bus Company (L.M.S. Railway), is attending, on behalf of his firm, the Eastwood Park Civilian Anti-Gas School at Falfield, Gloucestershire. At the conclusion of his present training he will be warden in sole charge of the air-raid precautions for his firm at Birmingham. He states that there is a staff of about 4,000 to be trained in the protection of the 28 garages and 1,200 buses against various kinds of gas attacks and air raids, and he expects the work will take about a year to complete. He describes his experiences in learning to detect different gases and their effects: “I have smelt about eight gases, some deadly in the right proportions and some otherwise. We have had to walk through tear gas without gas masks and cry terribly in consequence. We also had to walk through a nose and lung irritant gas which makes one sneeze and cough and produces a burning sensation in the throat and lungs, fortunately all over in a few minutes without, in this case, any ill effects.”

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