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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 14, Issue 1 (April 1, 1939)

Highways and Byways (Continued from page 39)

Highways and Byways (Continued from page 39)

and this is certainly a place which deserves publicity, not merely because of the blowholes but because of the bush surroundings. A well surfaced track made of fine metal leads in through a jungle of nikau palms and it would only take the trumpeting of a few elephants or the growl of a lion or two to transfer the setting to another country.

Before reaching the blowholes tracks branch off in many directions and these lead round various parts of the bush and then back to the entrance again.

To see the holes at their best the visit should be made at high tide after there has been rough weather and when there is still a heavy surf. The waves crash over the outlying rocks, sending up sheets of spray to a height of thirty feet or more and continue their mad rush up the caverns under the cliffs. This has the effect of concerntrating the force of the water so that when it reaches the solid rock face at the end of the cavern, spray is forced up through vertical vents to the top of the cliffs and reaches a very considerable height. The track winds along the top of the cliffs and at any dangerous point is bordered by a solid wooden railing. Even on the track, however, one has to watch which way the wind is blowing or a blowhole may give a drenching like a firehose. It is fascinating to watch the white crested waves roll in and rush madly up the inlets which honeycomb the cliffs, finally dashing themselves with a thunderous roar into fine spray. The formation of the rocks is very peculiar—the strata lying in fine horizontal layers giving rise to the name “Pancake Rocks.”

Continuing the journey towards Westport, gold-mining claims and timber-mills are passed. The last few miles are traversed across pakihi lands which up till recently have supported scrub only and were considered unsuited for farming of any kind. An experimental area has, however, been cleared and drained and is being used for dairying. It is stated that the results obtained from this land, hitherto unproductive, rival those in Taranaki. Accordingly plans for bringing large areas of this land into production, are well advanced.

The “loopline”—an interesting access road on the West Coast.

The “loopline”—an interesting access road on the West Coast.

Westport itself is the central port serving the important coal mining districts of Denniston, Stockton and Millerton. The illustration of a busy wharf scene at Westport is typical of any day at the waterfront, where large quantities of coal and timber are handled both by day and by night.

The fastest road outlet to Canterbury from Westport is by way of the Buller Gorge. The river travels for many, many miles inland and the trip through the Gorge is full of interest. The lower approach is gained by travelling a road locally called the “loopline,” at the end of which a timber mill is situated. After travelling a mile or two the bank levels out at a place called “The Punt” and this is where the early settlers had to ferry across the river before the present rail and road bridge was built at Westport. The punt itself has long since disappeared, but the hotel which did service in those days still stands on the opposite bank of the river.

Soon after this, “Windy Point” and the Gorge proper are reached. From here on for twenty miles the road is narrow and winding, though it has been vastly improved latterly and improvements still continue apace. New bridges are being built and the road is being widened.

Some distance on, Cascade Creek is passed and a narrow grass track leads down from the main road to the river itself. Here the river is bordered with native trees and willows—one of the most delightful spots on this wonderful West Coast road.

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