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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 12, Issue 10 (January 1, 1938.)

[section]

Maori Occupation.

The history of Jackson's Bay, as far as is known, goes back nearly 200 years, when it was inhabited by the Ngati-Mamoe tribe, whose chief was a famous warrior, well named Te Uira (“The Lightning”). He possessed a particularly beautiful greenstone mere, the pride and inspiration of the whole tribe. The Ngai-Tahus—relentless foes of the Ngati-Mamoes—succeeded by strategy in capturing both Te Uira and the coveted mere. By his great strength, Te Uira burst his bonds; and at nightfall, creeping stealthily to the enemy's pa. he—by an act astonishing in its cool daring—recovered the mere. The angry Ngai-Tahus hurried down the coast to prevent the escape of Te Uira and his people from their pa at Jackson's Bay. But arriving there, they found the pa too well fortified to be taken immediately; and the next day, noiselessly, at dead of night the Ngati-Mamoes stole away into the interior of the country, taking with them the mere, sole relic of their former greatness. Many years later it was rumoured that a remnant of the tribe still inhabited the country between Lake Wanaka and Milford Sound.

“Pioneers of Civilisation.”

That the Ngati-Mamoes should know their way from Jackson's Bay, inland, is not surprising. Mountains formed no barriers to the Maoris, who found passes by which, for trading purposes, they travelled across the South Island from coast to coast. Particularly important was the route now known as the Haast Pass, which from early times has been linked with Jackson's Bay.

In 1863, about the same time that Dr. Julius von Haast discovered the pass that bears his name, courageous men—alone, or in small groups—found their way by sea or overland to Jackson's Bay. Their object primarily was to find gold; but their labours should not on this account be lightly treated. Dr. von Haast pleaded their cause, speaking of them as “pioneers of civilisation,” and those of their number who fought through perils to Jackson's Bay, certainly deserve a place in its history.

In June, 1863, a party reached Jackson's Bay by sea, on board the Nugget. An interesting item in the record of this expedition is that on arriving they met some Maoris who said they had often seen as many as ten vessels in the bay. Probably these were whaling ships. The Nugget party prospected in Jackson's Bay and its vicinity for about seven months.

Several expeditions were made overland from Wakatipu to Jackson's Bay. The most notable—at least of which there is any record—is that, in 1864, of A. J. Barrington and his companions. These men suffered terrible hardships; Barrington becoming so weak from starvation that he had to reduce the weight of his swag, leaving behind many valuable things, including a carefully-drawn chart of the country he had passed through. According to Mr. Vincent Pyke (Gold Fields Secretary), the loss of this chart was deplorable.

In August, 1865, Vincent Pyke himself, accompanied by Mr. Coates (Mining Surveyor) and three men, started from Dunedin with the object of finding a practicable line of road via Lake Wanaka to the West Coast. After a perilous journey they reached the coast but could stay only three days, their food being almost spent. Had they known that miners were then at work in Jackson's Bay and Bruce Bay, probably assistance would have been sought from them.

The same year, 1865, the great rush to the Coast diggings took place; the miners gradually spread down the coast, 80 to 100 coming as far south as Jackson's Bay and Bruce Bay. The year 1869 saw the first gold rush to the Haast.

Thus, through the years, interest in South Westland slowly grew, culminating, in 1870, in a proposal by the county council to establish a special settlement there.

Jackson's Bay Settlement.

In January, 1871, a select committee was appointed to report on blocks of land suitable for settlement; and after having carefully considered the matter, and having taken evidence from the chief surveyor, the harbourmaster and others who knew the coast well, the committee concluded that the site for such a settlement should be a block of land comprising 50,000 acres, extending from the Haast River to a point two miles south of the Arawata River.

The principal reasons which led the committee to choose this block of land,
(Aerial photo, by Capt. J. C. Merocer).Jackson's Bay, South Westland, New Zealand.

(Aerial photo, by Capt. J. C. Merocer).Jackson's Bay, South Westland, New Zealand.

page 26 were that it contained a large quantity of good agricultural land, lightly timbered, and an abundant supply of excellent timber; also, within its boundary were four navigable rivers—the Haast, Arawata, Waiatoto and Okuru. Other advantages of the site were the possession of the only harbour on the coast where large vessels could lie, and its proximity to the lowest known pass over the Southern Alps, the Haast Pass.

Arrangements in connection with the settlement were not made in a hurry. Not till July, 1874, were details of the scheme completed and made known. Throughout the district the proposal was so well received that it became difficult to make a selection from the large number of persons who wished to settle in Jackson's Bay.

In November of the same year, Mr. Bonar (Superintendent of Westland) went down to the proposed site in order to send a report on it to the Minister of Immigration. Accompanying him was the chief surveyor (Mr. Mueller) and one of the oldest surveyors with a full staff of experienced men. In his report, Mr. Bonar emphasised the point that one of the main features in connection with the settlement would be the exportation of timber; and as the best timber land commenced about four miles from the port, it was of the utmost importance that communication should be opened right through the settlement so that timber might be brought to the port at a moderate charge for carriage. He took pains to make it absolutely clear that the success of the Jackson's Bay settlement would depend largely on a wise choice of settlers; on the construction of an iron rail tramway; and on the making at the port of a jetty running out into deep water.

Subsequent events proved the soundness of Mr. Bonar's judgment.

It was planned to place on the settlement 250 families, equal to, approximately 1,000 adults; the first fifty to be selected from families already residing on the West Coast; the remaining 200 to be sent from Home or selected from immigrants arriving in different parts of the colony.

Mr. Duncan Macfarlane—a man of wide experience—was appointed Resident Agent to control the affairs at Jackson's Bay.

Active interest in South Westland was being shown also by Otago. In 1874 the Provincial Government engaged Mr. D. Hutcheson to superintend the cutting of a track “by which stock could be driven from the head of Lake Wanaka to Jackson's Bay, via Haast's Pass.” In spite of an insufficient number of men at the beginning and bad weather later on, in about twelve months Hutcheson succeeded in making the track from the Makarora to the pass, on the east bank of Hish River and down the Haast Gorge.

In the meantime matters were moving ahead at Jackson's Bay, and on January 18th, 1875, the first 20 settlers left Hokitika for the new settlement. They had been chosen from a large number of applicants, and were all good men wishing to settle permanently on the land. With them was sent timber, already framed, sufficient to erect at once a store and eight cottages, so that the provisions and tools could be housed, and the men provided with temporary accommodation within a few days after landing. So did a vision of a Jackson's Bay settlement begin to materialise.

Establishment of the Settlement.

A town had been laid out at Arawata. The survey of suburban and rural allotments had been completed, and the settlers at once began the hard task of making an idea become a fact. According to the conditions of settlement, the land was to be held by annual payment of rent extending over a period of seven years, the payments entitling the settler to the freehold at the end of that time. For the first two years, also, on three days a week they were to be provided by the Government with work on the road through the block, or such other works as might be undertaken. At the end of the following May, the population totalled 175—60 men, 25 women and 72 children. The majority were entering with spirit into the work of settling, but the agent pointed out that the ultimate success of their efforts would depend on the erection of a jetty and on the speedy opening up of communication with the east coast via the Haast Pass. Only by this route could the majority of settlers obtain stock at prices which they could afford to pay.

Unfortunately, as the year went on, trouble arose. In the “New Zealand Times” appeared letters and a leading article containing grave charges of maladministration in connection with the affairs of Jackson's Bay settlement. Bonar, in a letter addressed to the Minister of Immigration, said he would be glad if the Government would send some independent person to the settlement to report fully on it, and look into the grossly unfair charges levelled against himself. About this time Mr. Charles Woolcock (Secretary of Public Works) paid a visit to Jackson's Bay. He reported most favourably on the settlement, and stated that the trouble was due to half-a-dozen malcontents.

Decline of the Settlement.

Time passed. The settlement, now more than two years old, was hampered by its isolated position and by the class of immigrants who peopled it. Instead of their being agricultural labourers from England and Ireland, and men accustomed to fishing, from the North of Scotland, it had been an outlet for Germans and Poles unable to find employment
(Aerial photo. by Capt. J. C. Mercer.)Another view of Jackson's Bay showing the Arawata River, South Island, New Zealand.

(Aerial photo. by Capt. J. C. Mercer.)Another view of Jackson's Bay showing the Arawata River, South Island, New Zealand.

page 27 in other parts of the colony; and for Italians whom the Government had had for months in the depot at Wellington. These people were unable even to speak English.

The population at Jackson's Bay now numbered 367; and in fairness to the settlers, the Resident Agent felt it necessary to state that, without further assistance, the settlement would be a failure. Employers of labour would not come to Jackson's Bay, chiefly because of the lack of wharf accommodation.

In February, 1878, the Hon. James Macandrew, with others, called at Jackson's Bay and was waited on by the settlers, who brought before him the urgent need of a jetty and of overland communication with Otago and Canterbury, also of communication with Hoki-tika via the Paringa Track. With regard to the jetty, Mr. Macandrew approved of the work as far as it had gone, and authorised its continuance; but because of Captain Fairchild's adverse report, the plans and all necessary memoranda were to be submitted to Mr. Blackett (Government Engineer).

In due time Blackett came to inspect the jetty, as far as it had gone, and the result of his report was awaited with extreme anxiety, for a crisis had been reached in the affairs of the settlement. Anticipating the stoppage of Public Works, some of the settlers had induced Mr. Haworth, a sawmill owner, to erect at Arawata a sawmill, of which the settlers were to be part-owners. Haworth had acted on the clear understanding that facilities, for shipping timber would be provided, but as matters stood he was faced with heavy financial loss. Moreover, from the Clark and other runs, fat stock was ready for shipment to Westland. These and other concerns affecting the prosperity of the community were almost entirely dependent for their success on one thing—adequate means of export.

Suspense, at least, was ended when the agent received from Wellington the following telegram dated July 10th, 1878: “Engineers and practical persons advise that a wharf at Jackson's Bay, if erected to stand, would cost two thousand five hundred pounds. Under these circumstances there are no funds available, and the work cannot be proceeded with.”

Appointment of Royal Commission.

In the meantime, a growing spirit of discontent, and of animosity against the Resident Agent culminated in a petition containing statements and charges hostile to the management of the settlement. This document, drawn up by two or three of the settlers and signed by 36, was brought before the House of Representatives; as a result, on January, 17, 1879, four years, almost to the day, after the first settlers landed at Jackson's Bay, notification was made of the appointment of a Royal Commission to proceed to Jackson's Bay. In addition to the special objects of inquiry, the Commission were asked to state whether they considered it necessary to erect a jetty, or to carry on other public works—a surprising request, considering the evidence of the preceding four years.

On March 4th, 1879, the Royal Commission began its work of investigation. They made a very thorough inquiry into all the charges contained in the petition, of which about half the signatories were foreigners; probably hardly one of whom had a clear notion of what he was asked to sign. Briefly, this document, which had largely contributed to the appointment of a Royal Commission, had been found upon examination “in every statement which had not been sheltered against contradiction by its vagueness, to be substantially untrue.”

The Commissioners' Report on the state of the settlement itself is rather gloomy. Certainly, deserted homes—so often the sepulchres of dead hopes—are a depressing sight. At Arawata the prospect was more cheerful than at Smoothwater and Okuru; for against great odds some of the Arawata settlers had succeeded in making comfortable homes. The Government Store and the introduction of foreign immigrants—these and other things had contributed to the failure of Jackson's Bay Settlement; but the Report stated that chief above every other reason for its failure was the lack of any local industry.

The one industry immediately available was the sawing of timber, and the main thing necessary to enable the industry to prosper was the erection of a suitable jetty upon which timber could be stacked for shipment. If only the consideration of these matters had come first, the Commissioners believed that in spite of the mill stones round its neck, the settlement could hardly have sunk. Supposing the jetty were to cost £2,500; this ought not to stand in the way of its erection. The sum of £2,500 would be very judicially expended if it made possible an adequate return for the £29,000 which had been already laid out.

Far from bringing this forward as a new idea, the Commissioners pointed out that before ever a settler landed at Jackson's Bay the promoters of the settlement scheme had stressed these very things—the need of an industry and of facilities for export After making other recommendations, they concluded: “If we may be allowed to paraphase an ancient saying, to the question: What is the first requirement of Jackson's Bay? We should answer—a jetty; and to the question: What is the second? We should answer—a jetty; and if asked: What is the third? We should still answer—a jetty.”

Five Years Later.

Almost five years passed after the Royal Commission sent its Report to
(Aerial photo. by Capt. J. C. Mercer.)Otira Gorge, showing Arthur's Pass (top) and Otira, in foregroun, South Island, New Zealand.

(Aerial photo. by Capt. J. C. Mercer.)Otira Gorge, showing Arthur's Pass (top) and Otira, in foregroun, South Island, New Zealand.

page 28 the Government, when, in 1884, we read the closing chapters of this period of the History of Jackson's Bay. Mr. A. Barron, in the course of an official letter to the Surveyor-General, stated that scattered over the settlement were 24 families; on the Okuru, nine; on the Waiototo, eight; at Arawata, five; in the township, two. The settlers still suffered through their isolated position; stores arriving, on an average, only once in three months.

Toward the end of the Report occurs the brief sentence sounding like the last faint toll of an exhausted bell: “I was asked to bring under notice the need for a jetty at Jackson's Bay.”

To-day.

Nearly 70 years have passed since Jackson's Bay was the subject of golden prophecies. To-day, after many disappointments and much loss, fulfilment is in sight—a wharf is to be built at Jackson's Bay. A short time ago it was noted that the motor vessel, Gael. sailed from Greymouth for Jackson's Bay, in South Westland, “where the Government is to construct a harbour, enabling the opening up of a vast timber country.”

The pioneer settlers of 1875 were almost completely cut off from the rest of the world; but now—aeroplanes fly over Jackson's Bay, and the men engaged in constructing the harbour, will be supplied with a radio receiving and transmitting set.

So opens a new chapter in the History of Jackson's Bay.