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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 8, Issue 9 (January 1, 1934)

Trainland — Skipper'S—New Zealand's Thriller

page 61

Trainland
Skipper'S—New Zealand's Thriller.

If you want any thrills, Trainlanders, try a trip over Skippers, the once famous gold-mining district at Queenstown.

Until quite recently, coaches were used for this thrilling journey, but nowadays, you just hop into one of the Mt. Cook Motor Company's service cars and away you go. The hood of the car is down and there is a raging wind, so hold onto your hats! The sun is shining brilliantly and the twisting road behind and before you looks like a pin-scratch on the face of the cliffs. Higher, higher up the mountain-side you climb, into the sky, until you are looking over the cliffs as though from a skyscraper window. Far down below in the patchwork plains of coloured fields are people working who look no bigger than lady-birds. Up and down the rocky road, you climb, through Hell's Gates, around Fools' Bend, and past the Lighthouse Rock. While the motor stops for a few minutes to let the boiling radiator cool you will have time to see all kinds of weird and wonderful castles and faces in the rock formations. Right in the heart of the mountains you will see “chairs” suspended on cables which span the rivers.

The Lucky Dog!

The service car driver will show you Maori Point, and tell you how it came by that name. One afternoon in 1862 a party of Maoris were fording a dangerous river when their dog was swept away by the strong current. After struggling desperately, the dog managed to reach the other side, but he was cut off by perpendicular cliffs which made escape impossible. The dog was too terrified to enter the water again so, risking his life, one of the Maoris swam across to it. To his joy and amazement he found that where the dog had been trying in vain to climb the cliffs it had dislodged the earth in which were glittering specks of gold. Wildly excited at his discovery he signalled to his companions to ford the river. It was late afternoon, but by nightfall, they had collected 300 ozs. of gold which was worth £1,125.

£200,000 Hidden in His Tent.

Thousands of people rushed to Skippers. There was no time to stop and build roads so they lowered one another on ropes over the terrible precipices and, weighed down with their mining tools, they swam through perilous rivers; but for all their pluck and hardships they knew that there was a golden reward awaiting them.

Those were the rough and tumble days of which you have often read, when robbers were everywhere. One man had £200,000 worth of notes and gold hidden in his tent. I wonder how long he took to spend it?

* * *

The Lake That Breathes.

Lake Wakatipu is called “the Lake that breathes.” Every few minutes the lake rises and falls from 3 to 6 inches. The cause of this phenomenon is not known, but is believed to be due to the jerky outlet of the water at the Kawarau Dam, five miles away from Queenstown. Many little Maori children will tell you that it is the heart-beat of Giant Rakaihaitu who lies sleeping on the bed of Lake Wakatipu.

At night-time the steam ship “Earnslaw” blows its siren, turns on gay music and carries away a cargo of laughing holidaymakers across the velvety black lake to dance away the happy hours in the starlight.

In the day-time the steamer cruises up to the head of the lake, an excursion which you simply must not miss; once you have been there, you will know why. Many parts of the bush are walled in with unclimbed and un-named peaks which are an everlasting joy to visitors and a challenge to mountaineers.

* * *

Who Likes Strawberries?

Queenstown, itself, is a white and spotlessly clean little town, buried in flowers. Weeping willows fringe the concrete and lawn promenade where the boats bob up and down in the sunshine. In the park, which is on an arm of land jutting into Lake Wakatipu, are the sports grounds, bathing pavilion and ponds with fountains playing and marigolds and waterlilies mirrored in their green depths.

Up the hill, amidst the blue-gums, ferns and wild roses there is one particular strawberry garden where you pay a shilling and then you may eat as many strawberries as you wish. Once upon a time I was told about a fairy who turned her hair curly by eating heaps of strawberries; so, if you want curly hair and you like strawberries, well …….

There are a thousand and one other things to do and see at lovely Lake Wakatipu, but it will be better fun to discover them for yourselves, won't it?

Remember that Queenstown is only 175 miles from Dunedin and the journey there by rail and steamer is in itself a delightful adventure.

When you think of holidays, think of Queenstown.