(Contributed.)

The enterprise of the New Zealand Railways in linking up with the motor companies operating on the wonderful tourist routes between Napier and Rotorua via Wairoa, Gisborne and Opotiki, now enables the traveller to purchase, at moderate cost, at any railway station, a rail and motor ticket covering the complete journey. Hotel accommodation is adequate, and the tariffs are reasonable. To many New Zealanders the East Coast is still a terra incognita, but to those wishing to see the sheep country of Hawke's Bay, and the famous Urewera, the facilities now available are unique. A brief description of this very interesting combined rail and motor trip is given in the following article.

The journey from Napier to Rotorua, via Wairoa, Gisborne, and Opotiki, introduces the traveller to a wide extent of country hitherto little known to the tourist, but that is rapidly coming into favour as a district not only rich in historic associations, but abounding in scenery of a grandeur unsurpassed in any other part of New Zealand.

Leaving Napier, the road strikes into a region that speaks eloquently of the immense toil and sacrifice of the early pioneers in redeeming and bringing under cultivation the primeval wilderness.

In parts the country, denuded of bush and now utilised for grazing purposes, is singularly desolate; but here and there the desolation is relieved by lingering patches of exquisite native bush that still afford sanctuary to many of New Zealand's prized native birds. The process of denudation has also brought to view remarkable geological formations. The horizontal stratification of rock perched high in the hills and continuing in a strictly horizontal formation for many miles indicates, even to the uninitiated, what was ages ago the coastline of New Zealand, and proves the well-established fact that many thousands of years ago these islands were under water.

Few motor journeys proclaim the antiquity of New Zealand with such clear and convincing force as that leading northward along the coast from Napier to Wairoa.

Beautiful Morere and Flourishing Wairoa

The vernal beauty and freshness of Morere, famed for its wonderful hot mineral springs and the stately nikau groves, contrasts with the venerable aspects of the mountains and hills roundabout. Morere is a natural paradise, and perpetuates in miniature the entrancing loveliness that at one time, before the advent of the devastating civilisation of the pakeha, clothed the hills and valleys. In this region the road winds through many scenes rendered historic by the depredations of the warrior Te Kooti; and the sleek cattle graze placidly on sites that within the memory of living man ran red with the blood of victims slain in battle or wantonly massacred. The mountain fastnesses once securely held by the resourceful and crafy warrior are still pointed out. Pursuit into his numerous Urewera strongholds was impossible.

Wairoa is a flourishing centre, and the starting point of a three-hour run by motor to Lake Waikaremoana.

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Proceeding from Wairoa some mountainous country is soon reached, and when within ten miles of Gisborne, from the summit of Wharerata Hill, one of the most magnificent panoramas of land and sea is obtained.

The view from this lofty elevation embraces the whole of Poverty Bay. Prominent in the foreground is Young Hick's [sic] Head, the first land in New Zealand to be sighted by Captain Cook, and facetiously named by the great navigator in honour of his devoted and incorrigible cabin-boy. The prospect here set out before the traveller is classic, but the inappropriateness of the designation, Poverty Bay, is borne out by the wealth that centres in the handsome and picturesque town of Gisborne. The confluence almost in the heart of the town of the Tarnhern and Waikoau Rivers adds greatly to its charm, a charm enhanced by the rich gardens and substantial residences that fringe the outer circle of the town.

Across the Motu Range.

The road from Gisborne to Opotiki, a distance of 100 miles, leads across the farfamed Motu Range, in the Urewera country. An altitude of 3,000 feet is reached; the views obtained from the various summits extend far into the Ureweras, and embrace country so rugged and precipitous in character as to be for all time immune from destruction through the agency of man. Gorges and defiles, 1,500 feet in depth, are covered with vegetation, Nature leaving few places unadorned; and from the car the traveller gazes down into lonely depths rarely, if ever, disturbed by man, even in his most adventurous moods. Through an opening in the hills on a clear day a remarkable view of White Island is obtained. The dark green foliage in the foreground, the deep blue sea beyond, and the tremendous cloud of steam of dazzling whiteness by which the island is canopied, combine to form a picture not quickly effaced from the mind.

Through Rich Farming Country.

Opotiki is the centre of a rich dairying district, and marks the first important town in the Bay of Plenty. From Opotiki to Rotorua, a distance of 100 miles, the car follows a well-known motor route, embracing a wide variety of scene. The sea coast is followed for several miles. The page 46 avenue of pohutukawa trees (through which the car passes), when in flower impart a gorgeous and unique beauty to this particular stage of the journey. The road then winds down the Waimana Gorge, emerging at the foot into the township of Taneatua. Whakatane is nine miles further on, and from this point the road takes a westerly direction, leading into the very heart of the thermal regions. The route between Whakatane and Rotorua includes, in part, one of the best known of the scenic attractions of the district, traversing the shores of Lakes Roto Ma, Roto Ehu, Roto Iti, and Rotorua. Two celebrated mountains come within distinct view. Mounts Edgecombe and Tarawera, the latter rendered famous as the scene of the great eruption of 1886.

From the summit of the Tikitere Hill a bird's-eye view of the Rotorua volcanic basin is obtained. The contour of the country proclaims its volcanic or thermal origin. An unrivalled diversity of landscape presents itself. Mountain, bush, forest, lake, appear to be thrown together without order or sequence.

The escape of steam from insumerable vents and fissures attest the presence beneath of titanic forces. These are the characteristics that impact to Rotorua an interest unique among the world's thermal or health resorts; and now that travel arrangements are marked by every circumstance of comfort and convenience Rotorua can be included in every railroad or motor itinerary in the North Island.