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The New Zealand Railways Magazine, Volume 3, Issue 5 (September 1, 1928)

The Otira

page 13

The Otira

If the Midland line, connecting Christchurch with Greymouth, had been built for the express purpose of opening up the beauties of the great land mass of the Southern Alps, it could not have served its purpose better than it does in its present route through the snow-capped mountains and down the wonderful Otira Gorge.

A Mountain Playground for the People.

Ever since the railway to the West Coast first penetrated the mountain mass of the Southern Alps, the people of the South Island have taken an increasing interest in the Otira Gorge. Particularly to Canterbury has this region of glorious forests and snow clad ranges proved fascinating, for it presents the most vivid contrast imaginable to the placid peacefulness of the fertile plains from which the residents of the eastern province draw their never-failing supplies of “prime Canterbury” muton, Algerian oats, and sixty-bushel-to-the-acre wheat.

Realising the scenic possibilities of the route, the railways have made the Otira trip peculiarly their own. After trying out the possibilities of the Gorge as a tit-bit for travellers in a tentative way, and finding that it made a positive appeal to excursionists, the Department launched out boldly in a comprehensive campaign to make the Otira outing the most popular in the Dominion. And it has succeeded so well that capacity trains of four or five hundred passengers can be run almost once a fortnight throughout the year from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass and Otira. Thorough organisation, with the idea of helping and pleasing the travellers constantly in mind, is one of the principal factors in securing the success of these excursions.

Bealey River, Arthur's Pass, South Island.

Bealey River, Arthur's Pass, South Island.

A Recent Excursion.

Leaving Christchurch terminus soon after eight in the morning, the well-filled, steam-heated train sets out on its run to the mountains. The distance from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass station (at the eastern portal of the Otira Tunnel), is 87 miles and the train is on a gradual upward grade for the greater part of the journey, so that, at Arthur's Pass, we are 2,420 feet above sea-level. The country passed through is interesting, particularly as the line approaches the mountains, for here some wonderfully widespread views are obtained over the Plains and towards the Alps, whilst the snow-fed rivers of the higher country have produced many strange terraced formations in their wild, boulder-strewn rush towards the sea.

At Springfield, near the half-way mark, we halt for a welcome cup of tea, and then on, with a full head of steam for the steeper climbing of the last lap to Arthur's Pass.

On the day we travelled, Mr. P. A. Taylor, of the Christchurch District Manager's office, was in charge of the party, and he spared no pains to let everyone have as much information as possible both about the train trip and also in regard to the walk over the Otira.

Hear him in the talk he makes, as he proceeds through every car on the train whilst it is tearing along the upward trail of the lonesome Pass:

page 14

He breaks in on the gramophones and mouth organs and lively discussions and budding courtships and quiet readings and occasional card games that engage the attention of travellers in the various carriages, with a talk like this:— “Ladies and gentlemen,

“Let me introduce myself as an officer of the Railway Department specially deputed to assist you with any information and guidance you may desire in regard to the trip we are now taking. In order to view the best of the scenery that is available, I would strongly advise you to walk the ten miles from Arthur's Pass to Otira.” Cries of “Oh! oh!” “Now let me explain,” he goes on. “This ten mile walk is the easiest in the world (laughter), and this is how it comes about. Arthur's Pass station at which we will alight is about 2,400 feet above sea-level; but Otira station is only 1,200 feet above sea-level.

“The result is that from Arthur's Pass station you only have to climb six hundred feet in the course of three miles, and then you are at the top of the Pass, and on the dividing line between Canterbury and Westland. Then in the next seven miles you are going downhill all the way and actually drop 1,800 feet in the course of your walk to Otira station. The road is particularly good, and is at present well-surfaced; all the streams are bridged and the journey should not take the average walker more than three hours.

The Devil's Punch Bowl Waterfall, Arthur's Pass.

The Devil's Punch Bowl Waterfall, Arthur's Pass.

“But five hours are allowed for the journey, so you see there is no chance of anyone not having time to get there for the return journey; and, in any case, I will be the last to leave Arthur's Pass station, and I will see that no one is left behind.

“I assure you that anyone in ordinary health can make the trip, and we find that the majority of our passengers like to take it. The scenery is the finest to be found anywhere, and from the summit you walk for miles through a wonderful beech forest, with snow-clad mountains reaching right down to the verge of the bush; there are waterfalls and gorges, and glorious ever-changing views as you walk along through the historic Pass; and I am sure, if you make the journey, you will feel well repaid for your trouble, and will have the memory of something worth talking about for the rest of your lives.” (Hearty applause.)

Few there were who could resist that persuasive tongue, the result being that when Arthur's Pass was reached, over 90 per cent. of the passengers elected to make the ten mile walk, the small remainder choosing to go by rail all the way to Otira.

Over The Great Divide.

That walk is certainly one well worth remembering. It was taken by all types and ages of people. One old lady of eighty did the walk and enjoyed it, whilst at least half of those who “walked over” were middleaged and would, at ordinary times, think a mile a very long walk.

But there is something inspiring about the mountain scenery and invigorating about the mountain air that helps to an extraordinary extent in easing the toil of travel. The chief advantage, of course, is that there is no tedium; so splendid is each prospect that all thought of tiredness is dismissed from the mind through the joys disclosed to the eye.

So many valleys open directly on to the Pass Road that, instead of merely walking down one valley, you are able to look up a succession of them; and all the while the Otira River, in its deep-cut bed, brings the crash of falling waters to the ear and presents to view ever-varying glimpses of beautiful river-scape.

Arrived at Otira, a good meal is obtainable at the Railway Refreshment Rooms, and one has time to wander round this fine settlement, that grew as the result of railway enterprise in opening up the tunnel route to the coast.

page 15

The train leaves about 5 p.m. for the city, and we are once more borne along—tired but happy—as the train, electrically-driven, proceeds uphill, through the 5 ¼ mile tunnel, on its way to Arthur's Pass. Here a few stragglers, who had taken the “Bealey” instead of the “Otira” trip, are picked up, the steam locomotive takes charge and then a quick run down the long grade to Christchurch is made, arriving there some time before 9 o'clock.

It has been a day full of delights—of brightest sunshine amidst the mountains, whilst the city lay in gloom. No wonder so many passengers on our train had already made the trip several times, and most of them determined to go again and take more friends.

It is an outing that makes most ordinary day trips seem but hollow affairs, and its fame is spreading to other lands that have nothing of the kind to offer.

Limerick Of The Liver.

If your liver's inclined to protest.
When travelling's not of the best,
And jagged is your brain,
Book a seat in the train.
Give your “think-box” and liver a rest.

Otira'S Mountain Sentinels. The road emerging on the river flat near Otira Township.

Otira'S Mountain Sentinels.
The road emerging on the river flat near Otira Township.

Our Scenery Praised

Two recent visitors, Sir John Russell, the distinguished scientist, and Mr. D. Green of Java, have expressed themselves as pleased with New Zealand and charmed by its wonderful scenery. “The scenery in the South Island,” said Sir John Russell, “is superior to anything I have ever seen in the Southern Hemisphere.” Sir John stated that he had been through the North Island, and was sorry that his visit to the Dominion was so short. Mr. Green was no less enthusiastic in his reference to the scenic beauties of the Dominion. He said that “the drive down from Mount Cook put him in mind of the Javanese roads, which were very similar to those of this country. Mount Cook was the most beautiful spot he had ever visited, and it was primarily to visit this scenic resort that he had made the trip to New Zealand. At about this time of the year the heat was very trying to Europeans in Java, and it was necessary for health's sake to go away to a cooler climate, and in this respect New Zealand was beginning to become very popular.”