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New Zealand Revisited


page V


Chapter I
The Voyage
Early Relations with the Waikato—Journey to New Zealand in 1906—San Francisco—Honolulu—Pango-Pango—Voyage in 1860—The "Red Jacket"—Card-playing — Dancing — Doctoring — Ships—Bathing—The Chief Officer—Mutiny—Passengers Armed—Tristan d'Acunha—Prince Edward's Islands—Icebergs—Arrival at Port Philip—Quarantine—Bass' Straits—New Zealand Coast—Auckland 1
Chapter II
The New Zealand Coast
Sir George Grey's Island—Refugees from Te Awamutu—Deer, Kangaroos, Wild Cattle—Supplies Cut Off—Fish, Oysters—Flat Rock—Kohimarama—Bishop Selwyn—Governor Browne—Wreck of the Southern Cross—Whangarei—Ngunguru—Buying a Pig—Travelling Through the Bush 24
Chapter III
Auckland Harbour—Patara Te Tuhi—Rival Editors—Late Arrival of the Sonoma—Change of Plans—Hurried Glimpse of Auckland—Expulsion of Maories 38 page vi
Chapter IV
journey to christchurch
The Tourist Department—Wreck of H.M.S. Orpheus—Coasting Steamer—A Week at New Plymouth in Former Days—Sir George Grey and Mr. Domett—The Fatal Ambuscade—Small Farms—Wellington—Christchurch 45
Chapter V
The International Exhibition
The British Exhibit—The Maori Pah—Cook Islanders—An Elementary School—Opening Ceremony—Maori Chiefs—Proposed "Tangi"—The Governor's Dinner—Memorial to Mr. Seddon—Condition of Workers in New Zealand—Maori Welcome at the Pah—Relations of the Two Races in Society and Government—British Banquet to Occupants of the Pah—Speech of Te Heu Heu 55
Chapter VI
The New Zealand Labour Laws
The Industrial Conciliation and Arbitration Acts—Misconception in Great Britain—The British Labour Commission—Success of the Acts—Judge Chapman's Views — Composition of the Court — Industrial Districts—Industrial Unions—Matters Dealt With in Awards—Cost of Living—The Slaughtermen's Strike in 1907—Land Laws—Forms of Tenure—Residence and Improvement—Improved Farm Settlement—Acquisition of Land for Closer Settlement—Workmen's Homes—Maori Land—Maori Title—New Zealand Democracy 72 page vii
Chapter VII
Christchurch to Rotorua
Masterton—Preference in Electric Medical Apparatus—Wellington—Discovery of Copies of the "Pihoihoi"—Mr. Seddon's Grave—Wanganui—Old Friends—The Wanganui River—Travelling by Coach—Ruapehu—The Great Central Plains—Tongariro—Taupo—Journey Round Taupo in Former Days—The Spa—Rotorua 96
Chapter VIII
Wiremu Tamihana
Welcome at Waharoa—Taingakawa—Tamihana and Rewi—First Journey in Waikato—Mr. Ashwell—The War-party—War Dance—Return to Auckland—Tamihana Goes to Taranaki—His Story of What Took Place There—Wiremu Kingi—Cessation of Hostilities—Determination to Maintain the King—Preparation to Resist Invasion 115
Chapter IX
Sir Thomas Gore-Browne
Maori Desire for Home Rule—Report to the Governor—Preparation for War—The Governor's Proclamation—His Threat—His Demands—Meeting at Ngaruawahia—Resolution to Uphold their King—Tamihana's Letter—His Attempt to Visit the Governor—The Governor Superseded 142
Chapter X
Sir George Grey
Change of Ministry—Inspection of Waikato Schools—Rewi and Wi Kingi—The Governor's Policy—His Visit to the Bay of Islands—Seizure of Spirits in the page viiiThames — Mission to Tamihana — Hunger — The Runangas Consulted—Procedure of a Runanga—Total Prohibition in Waikato—Meeting at Taupari—Tipene's Answers and Questions—Military Road to Waikato 160
Chapter XI
William Fox
Mr. Fox's Visit to Waikato—Tamihana Absent—Christmas at Taupiri—Visit to Hangatiki—The King's Army—Aporo—Te Heu Heu at Kihikihi—Removal to Te Tomo—The "New Institutions" in Upper Waikato—Occupation as Magistrate—Patene's Raid—Failure of the "New Institutions"—Te Wheoro 186
Chapter XII
The Maori King
Many Masters—A Revolted Policeman—Kukutai's Salary — Ministerial Blindness — Anarchy—Official Report—The Runangas—The King's Magistrates—The King's Soldiers—The King's Revenue—Poll-tax on Pakehas—The Mail—Prayers for the Queen 206
Chapter XIII
Change of Policy
Summoned to Auckland—The Mail Bag before the Runanga—Sir George Grey's Power of Persuasion—Change of Houses—The Technical School Boycotted—The King's Epaulets — Friendly Banquets — Religious Quarrels—School Timber Seized—The Queen's Redoubt—The Threatened Steamer—New Ministry—Double Government—Projected Hospital—Rival Newspapers 223 page ix
Chapter XIV
Bishop Selwyn
Convention at Matamata — Two Sermons — Bishop Selwyn's Speech—Effect on Tamihana—Sir George Grey at Ngaruawahia—The Governor and Tamihana Face to Face—Digging Round the King with Spades—Letters from Waikato to Taranaki 242
Chapter XV
Rewi Maniapoto
The "Pihoihoi" Published—"The Evils of the King Movement"—Indignation of the King's Council—Rewi's Opportunity—Kohekohe Timber Thrown into the Waikato—Capture of the Printing Press—Intervention of Rangiaowhia Chiefs—Rewi's Letter—Tamihana at Kihikihi—Visit to the King's Runanga—Letter from Taranaki—Te Awamutu Evacuated 254
Chapter XVI
Return to Te Awamutu
Arrival by Railway—Meeting with the Old Scholars—Recollections of Old Days—The Town's Entertainment—Rangiaowhia, Kihikihi, and Orakau—Public Reception—Speeches of the Old Chiefs—Social Evening in the Town Hall—Visit to the old Mission House—The Modern School—Farewell 278
Chapter XVII
Arrival by Train—Changes—Potatau's Tomb—The "Tangi-te-kiwi" — Kahumatuku — Recollection of Hona — Taupiri — Mahuta's Canoe — Landing at Waahi 292 page x
Chapter XVIII
The Meeting—Mahuta's Welcome—Speech in Reply—Mr. Fowlds' Address—Talk with Tainga Kawa—Train to Auckland—Drury—Episode of the Invasion of Waikato—Mr. Dillon Bell at Kirikiri 303
Chapter XIX
Wandering about Parnell—Reception by the Citizens—The Schools—National Park at Niho Tapu—Sir John Logan Campbell—Auckland a Garden City 316
Chapter XX
Contrast with Former Departure—Condition of Auckland in 1863—Fighting Round Drury—The Peril of the City—Sent to Sydney to Raise Volunteers—Desperate Prospects of the Maories—Their Political Safety Now—Are They Dying Out?—Dr. Pomare's Reports—Good-bye for Ever 323