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Mihawhenua: The Adventures of a Party of Tourists Amongst a Tribe of Maoris Discovered in Western Otago, New Zealand

Chapter IV. A Perilous Experience

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Chapter IV. A Perilous Experience.

The storm which had passed over the district on the day after our arrival at Queenstown left the atmosphere more at rest, and we made much progress under the favourable accompaniment of excellent weather. The first four days were simply a series of gradual steady stages, unmarked by any adventure or formidable obstacle. The night of the fourth day out—a Saturday—found us encamped within view of a high range of snow-capped hills. The temperature had changed greatly since the first day, and on this evening we were particularly glad to have a large fire burning at the camp. Macdonald and Lode had arranged to take it in turns to keep the fire burning all night; and after we had sat for some time over the fire we decided that the next day, being our first Sunday on the way, should be spent in rest. When we awoke well on into Sunday morning it was raining heavily, and the sides of some of the adjoining mountains were a series of fierce streams and waterfalls. During the day we took the opportunity to overhaul our firearms.

Two days later we pitched our camp more than half way up the side of one of the steepest hills on the range of mountains which had been in view for some days. Here we found that it would not be possible for us to take our horses further, so we decided to form a store reserve, and page 37leave the bulk of our baggage. Next morning we cast about for a suitable place in which to leave the horses with some hope of finding them again on our return.

Going further up the hill to reconnoitre, I discovered, at some distance to the right of where we were, a natural paddock formed on the table land of one of the lowest ridges. In this we could place the horses, and they would get abundance of food and water for weeks to come. With some difficulty we reached this paddock, and were delighted to find that it consisted of a natural enclosure protected all around by rocks and boulders, and several acres in area. The only opening was that through which we had put the horses, and this, by dint of some exertion, we were able to render impassable for the horses by a rough stone wall. When this work had been completed the day had nearly ended, but we could congratulate ourselves upon having secured against the straying of our animals.

Next morning, carrying such baggage as we could not well dispense with, we began the ascent of the mountain. The whole day's hard toil did not bring us to the summit. Above us the snow and ice, which looked so smooth from below, but which in reality was a mass of great ice blocks and snow mounds, towered far over our heads. Adjoining the spot at which we camped was a huge block of ice hundreds of tons in weight. We sank to rest under its shadow more tired than had been our experience before. Making an early start next morning, we reached the top about two o'clock in the afternoon, and then, what a panorama met our view!—worth weeks of toil to achieve!

The peak which had looked so sharp and narrow to us, was many acres in extent. We stood on one of the lower page 38terraces, transfixed by the wonders of the landscape beyond. Far away from the foot of the mountains we had scaled lay an immense plain; glorious with vegetation, and brilliant in the sunshine, which seemed to despise the hilltop on which we stood, and shed its beauties only on the plain beyond. Intersecting this plain was a broad, smooth river, which looked like an immense band of polished steel.

The river took its source from the foot of the range of hills, and stretched far away across the plain until it seemed lost in distance. All around us was ice and frozen snow—the garments of hoary winter; while below us on the plain everything was bathed in sunlight, and wore the gladness of summer—in all the range of our experience, a picture without a parallel!

On exploring the summit of the mountain new wonders met our view. Further towards the west was a circular lake of crystal brightness, surrounded by ice.

"A lake on a mountain top!" I exclaimed; "who ever heard of such a thing?"

We looked at each other wonderingly. All our theories of Nature's workings were being shattered.

Further round we saw luxurious vegetation—green leaves surrounded by ice blocks!

"What fairy land is this?" asked Gordon.

Too much filled with wonder to speak, we proceeded quickly round towards the spot.

There the waters of the lake found an outlet in numerous little streams, between which grew some most beautiful vegetation. When the water reached the crown of the hill and began its descent, it slowly froze into ice.

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Amazed at this phenomenon, I stooped over and put my hand into the water of the lake. It was warm! There, on the highest mountain we had ever reached, was a basin of warm water which overflowed and tempered the fierce cold of the great altitude, until some of the most wonderful and delicate of vegetation was tempted into growth.

By the side of this basin we camped, and slept in a milder temperature than we had enjoyed for several nights.

I awoke about two o'clock as much refreshed as on ordinary occasions after eight or nine hours of sleep. Something in the great altitude and less dense atmosphere appeared conducive to speedy recuperation. It was not yet daylight, but I got up to await the dawn. Nothing within the power of tongue or pen could describe the marvellous sunrise I saw. The sky became ablaze with a vivid brightness, which gradually deepened, until the great fiery orb rose slowly up above the horizon, and flooded all around in the warmth of its soft embracing light.

So full of wonder was the sight, and so deeply did it impress me with the vastness of the universe, that I called my companions, and we all stood in amazement watching the glorious scene.

We determined to make all haste to the plains below, and after breakfasting looked around for a means of descent.

Here a great difficulty presented itself. After spending nearly three hours in the endeavour to find a means of getting down the side of the mountain next the plain, we discovered that the only possible way was down the channel formed by the sliding blocks of ice.

This was a clearly-defined straight slide, which it was page 40impossible for us to traverse, and on which, if we lost our footing, we must be hurled to the bottom of the mountain, and dashed to pieces. We stood in wonder contemplating the great slide before us, and longing for an ice sledge or some such means of transit. As we watched we saw the ice block in the channel grow gradually bigger and bigger. The overflow from the lake was frozen and attached to this block as it poured slowly over the top into the iceway.

"I have it!" said Gordon. "This block grows with the overflow until its weight is too great to rest here, then it starts off down the hill, and makes way for another."

This was evidently the fact. We determined to wait and see. After a couple of hours we saw the block slowly move, first an inch or two; then, as if gathering strength for a final plunge, a few feet; then off it started, increasing its speed as it went. Presently its flight was almost too quick to be watched, and then like a flash it sped down to the plain below. A heavy splash in the waters of the river told us its descent was ended. When we looked again at the spot from which it had started, another block had already begun to form.

"I say, boys," broke in Richards, "could we not ride down the hill on one of these ice blocks?"

"Certies!" cried Macdonald, aghast at the suggestion, "ye'll no catch me fleein' fit tae blaw ma een oot if I ken o't," a sentiment with which we all agreed.

"No, but I'll tell you what we can do," said Gordon. "We have left our canvas boats down below. If we had them here we might form a slide on which we could go down safely."

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This suggestion was thought feasible, so it was agreed that Lode and Macdonald should return to the store camp and bring the boats we had left there.

These boats consisted of several cylinders made of canvas filled with cork, which formed a light frame-work for a canvas covering. This, when put together, was a very serviceable boat, capable of holding four men, and so light that one man could with ease carry the whole material of both boats, including two pairs of paddles. These boats, and two pairs of alpenstocks, were what the men were despatched for.

After they had left, Gordon suggested that we might so aid the building of the next block of ice as to make it a means of descent. If we could get some sharp stones into the bottom of the block so as to catch the ice in the channel, and retard its progress, we might be able to ride safely down on it. This we set about doing. On the border of the lake we found several stones embedded in ice which we managed to break into the desired shapes and deposit in position in the channel.

After the first row had been frozen over we fixed in a second, and so on until we had several rows of stones in position, forming, as it were, teeth under the block, which caught the ice on which it was to slide.

This we saw would prevent the starting of a much heavier block than we had seen descend, and its size would be ample to accommodate us on its surface.

The novelty of the proposed mode of descent quite over-shadowed the danger, and in the eagerness of our desire to reach the plain we did not harbour any fear as to the means about to be employed.

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Our men did not return till the following day, and by that time the block had grown nearly twice the size of that which we had seen descend. With my axe I cut holes in the top of the block sufficient to enable us to get a firm position on the ice, and by fastening the boat lines and extra ropes we had with us, we were provided with abundant means of retaining our places. There was then nothing for us to do but to get aboard the block and patiently wait for its moving. About mid-day we felt a slight tremor. I drew a deep breath in expectation of a movement. Gordon, who sat nearest me, silently pressed my arm. As I turned to him he whispered—

"This is a terrible experiment, but don't let the others see that we think there is any danger."

As he spoke we felt a decided move forward.

"Hold fast!" I cried, "and lie down when we get started."

A lurch forward and the whole mass was moving slowly.

Macdonald rose up as if to look over the back.

"Lie down, Mac!" I yelled.

Another lurch, and the great mass shot down—down the fearful slide.

I lay prone upon the ice, clutching the ropes that crossed near me, not daring to look up. Then we shot down with dreadful speed. The air grew hot around us; the ice beneath us began to melt. Still the velocity of the descent increased. Presently it seemed impossible to breathe. I placed my face close to the surface of the ice, and for a moment found some relief.

What a terrible agony of suspense I suffered! Would page 43the great block hold together? The grating of the stones below caused a sound like sharp, firm thunder.

Then the progress of the mass was for a time impeded, and our downward motion was slower. I dared not even raise myself to see the cause, but lay still, expecting every moment to be hurled from the block, and smashed lifeless upon the walls of the icy channel through which we were descending. Again we gathered speed! Again we shot down towards the plain! I could clearly hear the flow of the water below. Now I thought it was certain death, and I awaited my doom with what composure I could command. The thudding of my heart against my ribs was terribly intense. The heat of the atmosphere became oppressive, and a dull unconsciousness came over me. A delightful dream of aërial flight flashed across my mind, and then I felt like falling down—down into an infinity of depth.

A dull shock awoke me, and, dazed and stunned, I gradually realised that the motion of the block had ceased, and we were floating on the surface of the river.

Saved! but how fared my companions? Raising myself, I discovered them all lying around me! All! No! Macdonald was not there. I got up and grasped Gordon's arm. He responded in a sleepy way—

"All right, I'm coming."

"Wake up," I cried. "Where is Mac?"

Then I saw a black object rise to the surface some yards behind us. Instinctively I disengaged one of the cylinders of our boats, and jumped with it into the water. A few strokes brought me to the unconscious form, and I placed one end of the cylinder under his shoulders. I then struck page 44out towards the iceberg on which my companions rode in the water. Gordon threw out a line, and we soon got the Scotchman up, and had the satisfaction of finding our efforts to resuscitate him successful. We were all drenched by our first contact with the water, but not otherwise the worse for our adventure.

Afterwards my companions told me of their experiences. Gordon had been unconscious from the first quickening of the descent. Richards had felt much the same as I did.

Macdonald declared that a feeling had come over him as if sleepiness from the effects of whisky toddy, and he knew nothing until he was being "pumped i' the tap o' the ice brig!"

Lode professed that he could not give us any idea of what he had gone through, and did not attempt it.