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Chapter XVIII. A Volcanic Eruption.

We started for the pa next morning. At first the current of the river was too strong to allow of the canoe being used, so we had to proceed on foot up the river bank. The Maori rowers, dragging the canoe behind, followed us. The canoe was a full Waka Taua, or war canoe, larger than the one we had used on our previous excursions on the river. The laws of Tapu forbade the use of any other than a war canoe in which to transport a corpse.^* We were thus encumbered by a much larger canoe than formerly, and as a consequence made less progress. Towards noon I saw far away to the north-east a large, conical-shaped mountain, from the top of which was rising what appeared to be smoke.

I pointed this out to Gordon, who in turn asked Te Kahu the explanation of it. It was a volcano which, Te Kaku informed us, occasionally emitted smoke and steam, as at present, but generally there was nothing to be seen but small jets of steam rising from different parts of the summit, where boiling springs existed.

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On learning this we felt anxious to see the hill, and asked Te Kahu if he would conduct us to it. This he agreed to do, and, obtaining the consent of his men, we shortly afterwards embarked in the canoe, by which we were pulled up a small branch stream as far as the depth of water would permit.

After this we proceeded on foot, keeping along the bank of the stream, which appeared to come directly from the base of the hill. It was noon of the second day before we began the ascent of the mountain. Smoke was still rising from its summit, and appeared to me to be increasing in volume, but this appearance may only have been due to our getting closer to it. The stream along which we had come towards the hill flowed in an irregular course down the side. At the foot of the hill Te Kahu performed a ceremony of incantation, into which we did not enquire, and then started up with us, still keeping close to the stream. Presently the volcanic formation of the bed of this stream attracted our attention. At first it consisted of occasional deposits of lava-like nature, but further up we came upon a series of smooth channels of the same formation, and found that where the water trickled over any vegetable growth, the silicious deposit had formed a curious white crust over it, and left it like a petrified plant. Further up, the water flowed over a series of basins formed of the same deposit, dazzling in its purity and unique in its smoothness. Te Kahu pointed out to us that whereas the water below was quite cold, as we progressed upwards it became warmer, and gradually increased in temperature, until each succeeding basin was filled with water warmer page 157than that below. On the sides of the stream grew a profusion of vegetation, and I discovered some of the loveliest fern growths I have ever seen, growing on the edge of the water, sheltered under the overhanging banks. We proceeded up, examining each different basin as we went, until I had counted fifteen of them, each of which contained water of a different temperature to its neighbour. We had not yet reached the highest terraces, from which steam could be seen ascending in thick clouds. In these the whiteness of the lower terraces was mixed up with some degree of pinky colour, so that the smooth face of the basin was streaked and irregular.

I suggested to Gordon that a bath in the warm and grateful waters of one of these basins would be a refreshing and comforting experience after the hard and tiresome work we had undergone to reach the hill. Te Kahu also seemed glad of my proposal, and without more ado we all prepared for a dip into this wonderful bath. Oh! the elysium of the experience! When the warmth and softness of the water encircled us we felt transported to a balmy restfulness altogether unique in human experience. Such a bath was a fitting reward for days and weeks of toil! It made one forget for a time all the stern realities of his position in that strange land; banished from his mind all feeling of apprehension, all misgivings, all care for the immediate future; and left only the soothing, satisfying reflection that life is all peace, comfort, and enjoyment. For myself, I was loth to leave the water which gave such a blissful experience, and it was with reluctance I followed Te Kahu and my friends as they page 158ascended from one basin to another into warmer and still warmer water. We went through several different degrees of temperature, like the gradual heating of a Turkish bath, until we reached a basin in which we found the water hot and sulphurous—so strong, indeed, that we were glad to return again to the lower temperature below, and so descend in a process of gradual cooling down to where we started, where we dressed, and prepared to continue our ascent of the mountain. A short distance above where we had met with the sulphurous bath, we discovered several active geysers, the largest of which threw the water a height of at least forty feet. The beauty of these columns of pure water was something beyond description, and as they sparkled and dazzled in the rays of sunlight which now shone through them, the sight was one not soon to be forgotten. Each geyser was attended by a cloud of mist or steam arising from its base, but the column of water, as it shot up and curled high in the air, was of the brightest and purest. Further examination revealed to us several orifices from which the geysers had ceased to play; from some of these steam was emitted in slight misty clouds. The lips of these now silent mouths were smooth and regular, showing that at one time the now hard crust had consisted of a soft volcanic formation. Amongst the geysers were several small bubbling pools, the water of which was quite hot and boiling. Te Kahu proved this by placing some potatoes in a small basket into the water, from which he withdrew them in a short time perfectly cooked. Here, then, were wonderful evidences of Nature's working! Upon the side of a hill within sight of page 159a region of perpetual snow and ice,—indeed, looking towards a number of immense glaciers and ice caves—we were now watching the continuous flow of large volumes of boiling water made hot by the internal fires of a volcano. On one side of the valley were all the elements of grim and perpetual winter, while on the other existed those forces which make eternal summer. On the one mountain top nothing but the coldness of ice and snow, and on the other the warmth of bright verdure and hot springs. Truly, Nature indulges in strong contrasts!

After we were sufficiently rested by the examination of these wonders, we pushed on again, beyond the geysers and hot springs, towards the crater of the mountain. This process was by no means easy. Above the geysers the surface of the hill was devoid of vegetation, and very broken and irregular. Eventually, however, we reached the summit, and stood under the cloud of smoke then rising. Te Kahu expressed the opinion that there was more smoke rising from the hill than had been the case for many years, and that this denoted the approach of an eruption. There was only one man in the hapu who had seen the last volcanic disturbance, and he had often related in Te Kahu's hearing the manner in which the mountain emitted a constantly-increasing cloud of smoke for some days previously.

We were still some distance from the crater, but the heat was very strong, and we were shortly forced to go round to the side from which the wind was blowing. Here we managed to approach close up to the edge of the crater. The whole interior of this appeared to be in a perfect page 160turmoil, great bodies of molten matter being constantly thrown up, as if in a huge cauldron, spluttering and boiling with much noise. Near where we stood a part of the side of the crater had recently fallen in, and the mass of scoriæ and earth that had gone back into the fire was being melted and broken up in the active working of the volcano. We stood watching the progress for some time, gazing in silent amazement at the marvellousness of Nature's workings, appalled with the impressive sublimity of this grandeur, startled at the gorgeous magnificence of the display, and filled with awe and reverence for the agency which produced all these wonders.

"How I should like to see this by night!" said Gordon, after we had stood entranced for some time.

No one answered him. We were all too busy with our observation of the sublime sight before us—too much engaged with our own thoughts. Presently he repeated his remark, looking at Macdonald as he spoke.

"'Deed, no, sir; I'd raither be safe an' soun' doon on the flat. There's somethm' uncanny aboot this, I'm thinkin'," and Mac as he spoke moved away, as if to get further from the heat. He was evidently not desirous of a foretaste of his ultimate fate.

Gordon then spoke to Te Kahu as to our camping on the hill top, but this the Maori vetoed as impossible, and we shortly started down the hill again.

That night, seated around our camp, some distance from the foot of the mountain, Te Kahu related to us a legend of his people as to the fate of two runaway lovers, son and daughter of two powerful chiefs, who had fled from their page 161kindred, and took refuge on this hill, because the relatives of each declined to permit the marriage. They were pursued by their relatives right up to the summit, when the maiden,—Punariri, by name,—to avoid capture and the inevitable separation from her lover that would thereby be entailed, jumped into the boiling cauldron and was lost to sight. The man was captured and taken down the hill, at the foot of which the whole party encamped for the night. At midnight they were startled by a loud report, and, looking up, saw the form of Punariri standing in the midst of a vast column of smoke and fire then being belched forth from the mountain. This so startled them that they at once released the prisoner and fled in consternation; and to this day it is believed that Punariri and her lover are living happily in the interior of the mountain, and that the occasional displays of smoke and fire seen rising from the top of the hill are in celebration of the birth of their children. The Maoris believe that some day a vast upheaval will take place, when this couple and their numerous progeny will emerge from the volcano and seek revenge against the descendants of the relatives who sought to prevent their union. Te Kahu said he believed that it was the fear of this that prevented the Maoris forming a settlement in the vicinity of these warm springs, and had made the mountain tapu, or sacred, to the visits of chiefs only. This explained why none of his men had accompanied us on our ascent of the mountain, and also Te Kahu's incantation before we set foot on it.

My slumbers that night were considerably broken upon by dreams of Punariri and her husband, and I pictured page 162them as being surrounded by a large family of gigantic sons forging thunderbolts in the interior of the volcano, with which they were to sally forth and deal vengeance upon their parents' oppressors as soon as they were assured of their own strength. Then I heard the sound of a vast explosion, and, as I felt the whole earth tremble, I knew that the time of their coming had arrived.

Slowly awakening from my sleep, I became conscious that Gordon was shaking me as he cried, "Quick! Brock, quick! the mountain is in eruption!" and, glancing round, I saw that the whole country was illuminated by a lurid glare. Speedily overcoming my sleep, I beheld the most enthralling sight it has ever been my lot to witness. The volcano had broken out into eruption, and was now throwing up huge columns of smoke and fire, accompanied by sounds like the discharge of cannon. The whole of the surrounding scenery was enveloped in a fiery glare, and the sky was ablaze with a bright lurid light most marvellously grand. Great masses of molten lava were flowing down the side of the hill, and the course of the stream up which we had ascended was one long streak of the discharge. Vast jets of steam were rising from the site of the geysers, and these had increased in height and volume, but were now mixed up with quantities of scoriæ and lava, which rose high in the air and descended in showers on the mountain side. Presently the light became less vivid, and great clouds of black smoke and inky vapour were poured forth from the burning mountain, rising to a great height, and forming an immense pall over the hill and surrounding landscape. Although the wind was blowing page 163away from us, showers of ashes began to fall around, so that we considered it wise to at once retreat farther from the scene of the eruption. How true it is that we must stand away from a mountain if we wish to see its magnitude aright! We must be out of reach of its shadow. The sight which was to us indescribably grand when near the base of the hill and looking towards its summit, became a thousand times more glorious and enthralling as we increased the distance between it and us. Distance saved us from that intense glare which dazzled and enfeebled our eyes; lent to the view that charm which a full comprehension of every outline imparts; took from the picture that sense of minute detail which obscured the beauty as a whole; and gave to every part of the noble panorama before us that due proportion of colour, perspective, and light necessary to produce the fullest and freest effect. What wonder, then, that we stood entranced—that under the influence of an awesome admiration for the works of Nature, unmixed with any knowledge that the phenomenon was attended by loss of human life or property, we were able to drink in the full glories of the scene, and account ourselves fortunate in beholding a sight under favourable circumstances not accorded to many human eyes!

After a time the smoke decreased, and we saw further streams of lava being discharged from the belching mouth of the volcano, and running in narrow winding courses down the different channels of the hillside, until the mountain seemed bedecked with many different streamers, while the clouds of white mist added to the scene the appearance as if the huge monster was foaming and perspiring with the page 164exertions he had made to throw up such a mighty mass of burning, fiery matter. Then the pale, misty light of dawn slowly broke upon the scene; and as the light increased the activity of the volcano gradually lessened.

The sun rose in a dull cloud of vapour, and, as his rays began to penetrate the misty pall and add a glowing brightness to the scene, I felt that two great forces of Nature were struggling against each other. But what can withstand the powerful influence of the all-conquering orb of day! Before his glory all other fires pale; and as he rose towards the zenith, the dark pall over the landscape was dissipated, and left nothing but the still ascending, but gradually decreasing, column of smoke, which continued to overhang the hilltop in the now still calm atmosphere. In the glorious blaze of daylight the great hill looked calmly down upon the plain as if unconscious of having so lately poured forth the elements of death and destruction to all life within reach of its fiery tongue. The quietness which pervaded the scene was of that abnormal nature which comes as a powerful contrast to the disturbances of the preceding storm.