Pouerua

This is one of the most picturesque of the volcanic cone pa of the far north, and is but a short distance from the hamlet of Pa-karaka, inland of the Bay of Islands. The fine shapely cone of Pouerua is about 650 ft. in height, its crater being about 500 ft. deep, and the low lip thereof, on the south side, about 250 ft. below the level of page 304the high part of the crater rim. This rim is in the form of a horseshoe, the open part representing the low lip of the crater. From the two ends of the horseshoe extend two spurs, both of which fall somewhat abruptly. From the crater lip down the deep gully between the two spurs flowed, in remote times, the lava stream that is seen spread fan-wise over the low lands. From other sides this extinct volcano presents the appearance of a symmetrical cone, its slopes grass covered and carved into many terraces. The greater number of terraces are on the eastern and northern sides, with but few on the west. The Maori ever appreciated the morning sun. All these terraces were residential, and on some of them are yet seen the stone fireplaces of former huts.

This famed hill fort must have accommodated a vast number of natives, and many were living there when Archdeacon Williams first acquired land in the vincinity of the old lava flow. Henry Williams remembered seeing 1,400 natives living on the eastern slope alone of Pouerua, but at some time in the past a very much greater number must have occupied this hill.

The terrace formations of Pouerua resemble closely those of Maunga-turoto to the westward, and of the fortified volcanic hills of the Auckland isthmus. Although the fine, even slopes were eminently fitted for the formation of long continuous terraces, yet we here see the same short formations irregularly arranged that are observed at the above mentioned places. Even those terraces that, from a distance, appear to be of considerable length, are not really continuous, but include abrupt changes in level, all of which breaks in level lent themselves to defence. To make a sketch plan of all these terraces would be a most interesting task, but would consume much time, hence it was necessary to confine the illustration to that of the rim of the crater. The whole of the rim was occupied except the low lip and the steep slopes thereto, and this rim is the only part showing defensive fosses. There are also some terraces within the crater, on the upper slopes, but the lower part of the crater shows a dense growth of bush. There is said to have been a spring of water in the bottom of the crater which may have been the water supply, or one of them. No such spring is now seen, though the ground is damp and possibly water may collect there in the winter. The accumulation of debris from the extremely steep slopes may have covered or masked the spring.

My crude sketch of the crater rim lacks much detail and illustration of flank terraces, but will give some idea of the way in which such formations were excavated into flat residential areas of various page 305dimensions, and the defence thereof. See Fig. 77, p. 306. Area X is the highest part of the rim, from which it falls gradually toward the north to K area, then rises again to area A.

In most cases the modes of communication between the irregular, disconnected terraces are not traceable, but occasionally one terrace rises or falls to connect with another. The smallest terrace noted was about 20 ft. long and 10 ft. wide. In all cases abrasion of the brow lines and deposits of detritus on the inner sides have reduced the width of terraces. In one place was observed a small terrace having its outer scarp faced with stones. The defences consisted principally of scarps surmounted by stockades.

Ascending the steep tail spur of the western horn of the crater we reach the end of the crater rim at I. Here we meet with the first line of defence in the form of a trench cut across the ridge. Its inner scarp is 5 ft. in height and the trench is much blocked with debris therefrom. This trench extends down the western slope of the ridge to the end of a terrace 8 ft. below the level of A area. B is a small flatted area, as also is C, at the north end of which is a trench 6 ft. wide but now only 2 ft. deep, the inner or northern scarp is 6 ft. Scarps of the summit area are much eroded, it being so exposed to all winds, rains and storms.

D is another artificially flattened area of the crater rim 40 yds. long and from 7 yds. to 15 yds. wide. The N. and S. ends show remains of parapets now 1 ft. to 3 ft. high, as also do the two sides. The square block at the south end is apparently a portion of the original formation; it is 7 yds. long, 5 yds. wide and 5 ft. high, possibly connected with defensive measures, for example it might supply the place of an elevated platform, so often used in the defence of a gateway. The scarp on the eastern or crater side is from 5 ft. to 10 ft. deep, that on the outer or western side is 10 ft. to 12 ft., below which is a terrace 12 ft. wide. Other terraces are noted lower down this outer side.

From D area the crest of the crater rim falls toward the north, and then, as it curves round to the east, rises again toward the eastern horn which is the highest part of the rim. E area narrows as we proceed and ends with a 4 ft. scarp. The nearest terrace on the western slope is now about 50 ft. down the hillside.

F is another flatted area, 30 yds. long and 7 yds. to 12 yds. in width. Another 4 ft. drop lands us on G area and yet another such on H area. I area is 24 yds. long and averages about 9 yds. wide. On its western slope is a narrow terrace 4 ft. below the upper area. J is a small flatted area 8 yds. square. Several terraces down the western slope.

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A drop of 3 ft. brings us to K area of which the first 22 yds. are flattened, then a descent of 30 yds. brings us to a saddle, from which we advance 20 yds. on an upward slope to L area 58 yds. long. The square shown in it is a block of the original formation 7 ft. higher than the excavated part; it is 14 yds. by 11 yds.

Area M is 73 yds. long with steep slopes on both sides, the uppermost terrace on the outer slope being about 40 ft. below the summit. Descending a 10 ft. scarp with a shallow trench at its base we find N to be a flattened area 13 yds. wide. At 24 yds. it begins to rise page 307and lifts 12 ft. in 21 yds. showing a store pit in the middle. The terraces on the outer slope are numerous and extend far down the hillside.

Ascending a 6 ft. scarp, at the base of which is a much filled trench, brings us to O area, 48 yds. long, and its greatest width about 16 yds. At the end of this area is a block of the original formation 4 ft. higher than the flattened area, and 12 ft. wide. Then comes a fosse 12 ft. wide and 4 ft. deep.

Area P is divided into three sub-areas, two level and one sloping, and here is seen a curious wall of earth as left by the excavators when levelling the ridge top. It is bounded by a trench and scarp at its southern end, the trench extending down the hillside, at a depth of 5 ft. across a terrace 16 ft. below, and on further to lower terraces.

Area P, A is 70 yds. long and has been excavated in four different levels. Here are noted small sunk fireplaces termed takuahi, formerly used in dwelling huts, each lined with four stones. They vary in size from 8 in. by 10 in. to 16 in. by 18 in. inside measurement.

We now descend a 14 ft. scarp to a levelled area 45 yds. long and 19 yds. wide; Q area. Then comes a wall of the original formation, then a trench 4 ft. deep.

R area is 58 yds. long and from 8 yds. to 22 yds. wide. At its southern end one rises a scarp of 8 ft. the upper part of which is a parapet, to S area, 28 yds. long, and averaging 10 ft. above R. Another rise of 10 ft. to T area 12 yds. long, and another of 5 ft. to U area, 28 yds. long. Fine terraces on both flanks 10 ft. to 16 ft. below the ridge top. Another 10 ft. scarp takes us up to V area 47 yds. long; its western side being in three levels. Its southern end shows a fosse 10 ft. wide and a scarp of 12 ft. which carries us up to W, a small area 15 yds. long and 21 yds. wide.

X area is 6 ft. higher than W and is the highest part of the whole crater rim. It is also the last area of the fortified part of the rim and from this eastern horn the ground falls steeply to the lowest part of the lip at Z, about 250 ft. below, to rise again to the western cusp of the rim. X area ends in a deep scarped face, below which have been a few residential terraces, and a spur from the X cusp here falls steeply southward to rise again into a hill some distance away, that hill being also a fortified position. X area is 27 yds. long and in one corner has a rectangular sub-area 3 ft. higher, left in the levelling process. The outer slope shows a fine terrace up to 40 ft. in width, below which are many others on the long slope down to the lowlands. On the inner slope is a similar fine terrace. The scarp defences of X area are 18 ft. to 24 ft. in height. The two page 308wing spurs or ridges extending out from the two cusps at A and Y seem to have confined the flow of lava that poured over the low crater lip at Z and to have prevented its distribution until it escaped from the containing ridges.

The eastern outer slope of Pouerua shows about a dozen terrace formations, one above the other, but in no case is a terrace of any considerable length. The levels frequently change, as in the case of the hill forts of the Auckland district. A number of storage pits of the semi-subterranean type are seen.

On a hill top N.E. by E. from Pouerua is a picturesque old fort known as Nga Huha; it presents some imposingly high scarps as seen from the road. To the S.W. by W. rises the fortified volcanic cone of Maunga-turoto, westward is Maunga-kawakawa, while further round to the north are Tapa-huarau, Te Rua-hoanga, and many other old time fortified hill villages.

The view from the summit of Pouerua cone is indeed a magnificent one and well repays the labour of ascent, which is conveniently made from Pa-karaka.

Wilkes, of the U.S. Exploring Expedition, writing in 1840, remarked of Pouerua:—"It is remarkable for the regular feature of its cone when seen from the eastward. Its western side is cut through by a deep gorge. The interior is covered with large forest trees and huge blocks of lava, while the exterior is clad in ferns of low growth. The diameter of the crater is about half a mile." This estimate of the diameter of the crater is much exaggerated.