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Picturesque Dunedin: or Dunedin and its neighbourhood in 1890

H.M. Gaol

H.M. Gaol.

A good many years ago an Otago up-country journal very warmly congratulated the district it represented on the evidences of progress afforded by the erection of two new buildings, one of them being—a gaol. It did not seem to strike the writer that the progress indicated by the addition to its structures of a place of incarceration for evil-doers was scarcely a matter for gratulation, but one rather to be deplored. Unfortunately, wherever civilised communities are formed, there in due course the "progressive" gaol becomes a necessity. In the first days of the Otago settlement there seems to have been no urgent call page 208for a prison, but as the years went fay and the population slowly increased, breakers of the law forced the question of the establishment of a place of penal confinement on the attention of the authorities. At first, however, the culprits were nothing worse than jolly runaway sailors, with a slight occasional sprinkling of petty offenders, mainly through drink. There appears to be no means of knowing what Dunedin's first gaol was like, but it is probable that the second was a fac-simile of the first, possibly slightly enlarged. At all events, the first prison could not have been more simple and primitive than the second. The first official reference takes the form of an intimation in the Provincial Government Gazette of February 4th, 1854, that £75 had been voted as gaoler's salary for the year, and £60 for prisoners' rations. On December 20th following, the appointment of Mr. Henry Monson to be gaoler was announced; and on the 27th of the same month the Gazette stated that the gaoler's salary was raised to £50 for the ensuing half-year, with £65 as the appropriation for prisoners' rations and contingencies. That the first prison was constructed on the assumption that all prisoners would be as docile as lambs, is evidenced by the fact that nothing of the nature of strong rooms or solitary cells had been thought of. But the need for some such accommodation apparently made itself felt, and accordingly we find His Honor the Superintendent, Captain Cargill, forwarding the following message to Parliament:—"On the urgent requisition of the sheriff and the gaoler that two cells should be added, with some little extension of the accommodation for the gaoler, so as to include a lock-up (presumably for refractories), a press for his stores and rations, and a place for the wheelbarrows and tools when not in use, and deeming the same to be reasonable and necessary, I recommend a further appropriation for this purpose not exceeding £20." This gaol was short lived, as on October 22nd, 1855, it was destroyed by fire. One interesting circumstance-connected with this event deserves mention. At that time there was but one prisoner, and, prisoner though he was, he made strenuous efforts to save the building. He did not succeed, but he was saved from further confinement, the remainder of his sentence being remitted in consideration of the service he rendered. The erection of a new gaol was at once set about, but page 209pending its completion, a portion of the Immigration Barracks in Princes street south was used as a temporary prison.

Whatever appearance the first gaol presented, the one that succeeded it was not, as an architectural structure, of a character to awaken admiration; nor, indeed, is the present one. It was a one-storied timber building about 24 feet long by 16 feet wide, with a row of narrow open bunks, immigrant-ship fashion, running down each side, and an open passage between the rows, entrance to the bunks being effected endways. Into this dormitory light was meagrely admitted from the Bay side through two or three small windows, with thin perpendicular-iron bars, fixed on with screws. At the outer end of one of the rows of bunks were two closed-in solitary cells, or strong-rooms, if the word strong can in this connection be applied to ordinary planks of wood and to a wooden door. Seeing that, in many instances the world over, massive stone walls and iron doors have failed to prevent the escape of men of the Jack Shepherd class, it goes without saying that the matchboard cells of the old Dunedin Gaol were altogether inadequate to frustrate the efforts of even less desperate men bent on regaining their liberty. More than one broke out and escaped, only, however, to be recaptured; and one man, known as "Hobartown Jack," to whom a fellow-prisoner had passed a tomahawk through between the window bars, was only prevented from chopping the frail thing to pieces by a superior force overcoming him. This tiny and slim erection, which was suggestive of the idea of a travelling wild beasts' menagerie, stood on the present gaol site. Adjoining it was a yard about 60 feet by 40 feet, and both the prison and the yard, with the gaoler's residence, another small wooden edifice facing Stuart street, were surrounded by a paling fence six feet high, and with the rails placed inside. Without the aid of the rails as steps, however, any man of ordinary stature who objected to the deprivation of his liberty, could easily have hoisted himself over such a wall. The gaol lengthways faced the bay, the water of which washed up to the foot of the fence. On the opposite side of the street was the gaol garden (the ground now occupied by Findlay and Co.'s saw mill), and there the few prisoners reared vegetables for their and the gaoler's use. Making all allowance for the annoyance caused by occasional disturbing page 210characters, life in that prison seems to have been, like the place itself, simple and primitive in the extreme. It has been currently reported from the early days of the Province, that the inmates of the gaol, with their custodian, formed a very happy family, and that Mr. Monson was wont to freely send numbers of them into town on errands, and even sometimes to grant them permission to take a stroll, with the warning, however, that if they were not back by lock-up hour they would not be admitted. Such was Dunedin gaol as late as 1858. But it was not destined to continue,—that is, as the Dunedin prison—though for several years afterwards it still served the purpose of a dormitory. The increase in population, and in the proportionate number of prisoners, necessitated the erection in 1860 of a larger and stronger prison—the stone building that now forms the western portion of the present gaol; and shortly afterwards the debtors' prison, was built—the iron building that now forms the eastern end facing the bay. (In the year 1874, when the Abolition of Imprisonment for Debt Act was passed, this portion of the gaol ceased to be a debtors' prison, and it was then turned into a dormitory for female prisoners). The additional accommodation was not provided too soon, for in the following year (1861) the goldflelds were discovered, and then hordes of all classes poured into the colony from near and far, and among the newcomers were too many of a decidedly criminal stamp. Then also was formed the large and efficient police force, under the superintendence of Commissioner St. John Branigan; and so well did Mr. Branigan's men cope with the evil-doers, that in the space of twelve months the new gaol, as well as the old building, was crowded to such an extent that the then commodious chapel had to be used as a sleeping place. The contrast between the gaol of 1855 and that of 1862 may here be emphasised. In the first-mentioned year, when the prison was destroyed by fire, it had only one prisoner; in 1862, with all the large additions, the accommodation was altogether too inadequate—seven years' "progress" with a vengeance. But the tide turned, and—also through the vigour and watchfulness of Mr. Branigan's force—many of the criminal newcomers found Otago to be an un favourable field for their operations, and deeming discretion to be the better part of valour, they gradually, upon their release, betook themselves page 211from the colony, to the relief of the colony and of the gaol.

The stone prison was too manifestly not built with a knowledge of what a prison should be. The ground floor is faulty enough in all conscience, and difficult to work, but as regards the upper storey, if the designer had intended to place all power in the hands of the prisoners, and to make their control a work of immense difficulty and continual source of danger to the officers, he could not have succeeded better in his purpose. It is a perfect labyrinth—cells within cells, and corridors within corridors. There are a few single cells, in four small groups, as widely apart from each other as the walls of the building will allow; but for the most part the cells are absurdly large, and were made to accommodate as many as eight, ten, twelve, and in one instance even sixteen men, in double tiers of bunks (one above the other), placed lengthways against the four walls, and to get to the single cells it is (or was) necessary for the warders, in discharge of their nightly inspection, or in the case of the sickness or sham-sickness of a prisoner, to pass between the tiers with their occupants. It will thus be seen that the internal construction is such as to afford every facility for conspiracy and sudden attack, and to place the officers at a dreadful disadvantage. The marvel is that the institution has existed so long without any very serious thing occurring, especially in the desperate days of '61-3. But, of course, no gaoler in his senses would place known dangerous men, or even doubtful men, in circumstances so favourable to themselves. Of late years the danger has been very much reduced by the removal of the double tiers of bunks, and the erection of iron gratings with locks. Still, as a gaol the building is extremely defective and inconvenient; but no doubt it will ere long be superseded by a prison formed on sounder principles, and more worthy of the name.

In the years 1870 and 1879 large accessions were made to the inmates of Dunedin gaol by the arrival of two batches of Maori prisoners from the North Island, the first being Waikato warriors taken in the field, the second the disturbers of the peace who knocked down the settlers' fences at Parihaka. The Waikato men were a fine, noble body. They conducted themselves with amazing good humour, and joined heartily, as page 212if in competitive spirit with, the white men, on the works in various places. They were treated with great kindness and leniency, and everything possible was done to lessen the bitterness of their imprisonment and enforced absence from their homes. So soon, however, as it became evident that the deprivation of their liberty was telling on their health, the Grovernment promptly released them, and conveyed them back to their native hills. It is a pleasing fact that subsequently these men refused to take up arms against the Government, and the "Waikato tribe have remained friendly ever since. The Parihaka men, a mixture of pure Maoris and half-castes, and who partook much more of the mischievous larrikin than of the-noble, patriotic warrior, were also treated with special leniency,, and after a short incarceration, they, too, were liberated and sent to their homes.

For several years also a few lunatics were located in the gaol, where for want of proper facilities they were a source of annoyance; but when the Lunatic Asylum was opened, they were removed to more suitable quarters. One amusing incident connected with lunatic life in gaol may not be deemed out of place in this sketch. One insane man, ordinarily a happy-souled being, but who, like many other insane persons, could show method in his madness, was peremptorily told by an officer to clean his (the officer's) long boots, and to "do them well." The officer's tone seems to have grated on the man's spirit, but he quietly answered, "Yes, sir, I'll do them well." In due course the boots were returned, shining to brilliancy. Forthwith the officer inserted his right foot, and, after it was down half-way, and with his fingers in the straps, and drawing himself together for the grand effort, he sent the foot home with a jerk, when lo ! the member went right through, and away went the sole flying to the other side of the yard, while the perpetrator of the vengeful practical joke, with arms akimbo, stood against the wall leeringly watching proceedings. Close examination revealed the fact that the sewing or wooden pegs of both boots had been artistically cut, only two or three slim threads being left to keep the soles in their places ! As the brushing of officers' boots was not government work, the owner of the tops could do nothing but growl.

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From first to last much valuable work has been done by the prisoners, under competent overseers. In point of importance and magnitude the removal of Bell Hill ranks first, and, barring a small portion on the south side let by contract, it was reduced by the prisoners. It is difficult to give to those who never saw the hill an idea of its size and appearance, but it may be stated that from the level of Lower High street, behind the First Church and Manse, it rose to the height of 76 feet; from where the Garrison Hall stands it rose about 60 feet; from the plateau of the First Church (which stands 33 feet high), it rose 43 feet; and from Dr. Hocken's property it rose 35 feet; and (roughly) its base extended from Stuart street in the north, to the City Hall (late Lyceum) in the south, and from the telegraph posts in lower High street in the east, to the further side of Princes street in the west, and in that direction a portion of the hill still stands. The mountain may be said to have beenliterally cast into thesea, as the larger portion of it was used in reclaiming land from the bay. It was of volcanic formation, and much of it consisted of bluestone boulders, which were split by the prisoners and sold at 6s. and 7s. per load. Of that stone the Garrison Hall and the Princess Theatre were partly built, and it was used in the erection of many other buildings in the city. The work of removal was along and tedious one, extending over aperiod of about 18 years. It was also laborious, and fraught with much risk, not only to the workmen, but also to the buildings, by reason of the proximity of the hill to the city. Nothing of a serious nature, however, occurred. It may here be appropriately mentioned that in 1877 the merchants of Princes street north paid a high compliment to the Department by giving to one of its officers—Sergeant Outram, who for fifteen years superintended the hill works—a testimonial, in recognition of the care and tact displayed in so conducting the dangerous blasting operations that no injury whatever was done to their premises.

Next to the removal of Bell Hill, the chief works accomplished by the prisoners up to the present time, comprise the formation of the road across the northern part of the bay, and which connects Anderson's Bay main road with the Lower Peninsula road; the widening and stonewalling of the Peninsula page 214road all the way to Portolbello, and for a considerable distance beyond that township; the Port Chalmers and Deborah Bay coast road; the road across the Bay from Forth street to Logan's Point, and on through some heavy cuttings to Ravens bourne; the opening np of the southern end of Maitland street—another hill literally cast into the sea, and resulting in a large portion of land being reclaimed from the bay; removal of the Octagon Hill, ten or twelve feet high; formation of large portions of Cumberland and Castle streets, into both of which the water of the bay in places penetrated; levelling the Girls' High School ground; and filling up and forming (with construction of large stone sewer underneath) Upper Smith street, which connects Stuart street with the Girls' High School—a large work because of the great depth of the gully; formation and drainage of the Hospital grounds, and planting of the hedge and erection of the fence all round the block of five acres; formation of the Boys' High School Rectory ground, and the road leading from the Queen's Drive to the rectory; extensive works at Caversham and the Industrial School; formation of the Maori road, which connects the higher portion of Dunedin with Mornington; formation of the Jubilee Park, &c, &c. The heavy and dangerous cutting in Pitt street was also begun by the prisoners, and for twenty years the Botanical Gardens have been kept in order by a party of men being daily told off for the purpose. The more recent important works are the formation of the breakwater and the mole at North Otago Head, and the erection of the fortresses at Lawyer's Head and Tairoa Head—the latter, a large work, being still in progress. In a number of these works the Maori prisoners took an active part, and the Maori road, leading to Mornington, was entirely formed by them, as its name indicates. Such extensive and important operations required very efficient overseers. Of those who took a leading part and spent longer or shorter periods in the service, the following may be mentioned:—Mr. Joseph Young, now farmer, Portobello; Mr. James M'Intosh, now in the Customs Department; Mr. John Outram, retired; Messrs Strong and Duncan, both deceased; Mr. MacNamara, retired; Messrs Ferguson, Flannery, and Prictor, all now in the Prisons Department in the North Island; and Chief-warders Poynton and Armstrong, now in charge of the large works at page 215Taiaroa Head, and the former of whom superintended the breakwater and mole at the North Head.

While the various undertakings engaged in are necessarily entrusted to competent men, the great responsibility attaching to the works rests upon the chief officer, the gaoler, under whose supervision operations are conducted, and this, with the management of the prison and its inmates, and, in addition, the duties entailed upon him as Probation Officer, and the vast correspondence connected with all the branches of his department, makes his office to be no sinecure. Mr. Henry Monson, the first gaoler, was followed in succession by Mr. John Stoddart, Mr. James Caldwell, and Mr. S. G. Phillip, who is now in command; and the trying position of matron has been successively held by Mrs. Stoddart, Miss Heard, and Mrs. Shirley—the last-named lady being now in harness. Until 1877 Dunedin gaol was under the wing of the Otago Provincial Government, but on the abolition of the Provinces it, in common with the other gaols of the colony, was transferred to the General Government; and upon the appointment of Captain Hume as Inspector of Prisons it was placed under the one general and uniform system then adopted. Besides the Chief Inspectorship, the gaol is under the supervision of visiting justices and two official visitors. Upon the former gentlemen various powers are conferred, and among them that of adjudicating in special cases of discipline; butthelatter gentlemen—Messrs. J. Matthews and William Simpson—only visit the prison and freely converse with the prisoners when they see fit, and report to head-quarters from time to time. The inmates have thus, through the visiting justices and the official visitors, ample opportunities for making themselves heard when they deem they have cause for complaint. The visiting justices are: Mr. E. H. Carew, E. M.; Captains Baldwin and Thompson, Dr. Hislop, and Messrs E. B. Cargill, John Logan, W. L. Simpson, G. G. Russell, W. P. Street, G. Fenwick, W. Elder, and J. E Mason. Dr. Williams was the first visiting medical officer to the prison. He was succeeded in the capacity of Provincial Surgeon by the late Dr. Hulme, and since that gentleman's decease the duties of the office have been assiduously discharged by Dr. E. Burns. Mr. S. Smith, subsequently minister of the Congregational page 216Church, Port Chalmers, was the first Protestant chaplain to the Gaol, and he was succeeded by Mr. J. A. Torrance, who has held the position for over twenty-one years. The Rev. Mr Ronaldson also visits on behalf of Church of England inmates. For many years also good old Father Moreau, who is held in respectful remembrance by all who knew him, discharged the duties of Roman Catholic chaplain, and when he retired, the work was taken up by reverend gentlemen connected with, the Roman Catholic Church in Dunedin.