IX.—Corstorphine to Taieri Mouth.

As our purpose is to show our friends the best of everything we possess, our proposal is that starting from Dunedin, on horseback or in buggy, we pass through the village of Caversham, and half way up Look-out Point take the road leading by Corstorphine to upper Green Island. The approach cannot boast of much beauty, but when once the hill is fairly gained, the panorama is grand indeed.

The vast expanse of restless ocean, the capacious harbour, the long stretch of coastline from the far north to the Nuggets, the numerous indentations and promontories, half-covered reefs and page 276sea-girt rocks, sandy beaches and beetling cliff, city and suburbs, seaport and shipping, hills, dales, and mountains, the varied' foliage of the native bush and the contrasting hues of introduced plants, herds and flocks, imposing mansions and sod huts, and a hundred other objects which meet the eye, bestow an interest on the locality which very few other districts can excel. Nature's lap has been filled to overflowing with gems of rarest loveliness, and is it to be wondered at that amid scenes like these the goddess of poetry should have enwrapped so many of her favourites in the mantle of her genius ? Even prosaic individuals could hardly fail to draw inspiration from such abundant resources. The fact has been somewhere recorded that the rhymester who first felt the afflatus was a resident here; at all events volumes of poetry have issued from the Dunedin press, indited by local celebrities. One of the earliest efforts was thus, expressed to Otakau:—

"Land of the laurel and pine-circled glade,
Land of the fern and evergreen shade,
Isle of mild beauty in midst of the sea,
What island in sweetness is equal to thee ? "

We are passing through changeful country in name as well as in character. The first surveyors called it Ocean Beach District, then the largest proprietor, Mr. Sidey, whose residence we see on the hillside, named it Corstorphine, after his birthplace, near Edinburgh, which name it now bears. From the summit, looking towards the east, a splendid view of the Peninsula, the harbour, the mainland, and a portion of the city is obtained. In front is the mansion of Mr. Cargill, appropriately named The Cliffs, as it stands almost on the brink of a precipice, 320 feet in height, with White and Green Islands lying close in shore; whilst the ocean, calm this morning as a mirror, displays its vast bosom to the rays of the heat-giving sun in all his unclouded splendour. The southern coast-line shows the course we propose to follow, and will then have special notice. Turning inland, the Kaikorai Yalley lies before us, stretching up to Wakari, and having its surface dotted with numerous factories, the homes of divers thriving industries. At the head of the Yalley, and in the Borough of Eoslyn, are Bone, Flax, and Flock Mills, and most notable, the Eoslyn Woollen Mills, well worthy page 277the inspection of the visitor, which the spirited owners, Messrs. Boss and Glendining, will readily grant. Immediately opposite another extensive Woollen Factory is at work, being a branch of the Mosgiel establishment. Lower down the Valley, which has all been surveyed into townships, are the chemical works of Kempthorne and Prosser's Co'y., adjoining which are the Cattle Sale Yards and the Refrigerating Company's premises. Then further down the Yalley, along the main road, lie numerous wool scouring establishments, the iron boiling mills of Smellie Bros., a large soap and candle factory, tanneries, and a couple of flour and oatmeal mills. Coal mining, brick and cement making, and several other industrial pursuits, find a habitation along the line of this Yalley, which has received and deserves the name of the principal industrial centre in our Province.

Splendid views are had of the mountain scenery. Starting from Saddle Hill, the grand faithful sentinel standing as outer-guard, and passing along the Chain Hills, we rise to Flagstaff, the inner-guard, flanked by the Silver Peaks, so named from their colour; while in the distance rises the Lammerlaw, seemingly running into the Rock and Pillar Range, with their slightly snow-streaked peaks peering out as if part of the clouds, and nearer at hand stands Maungatua himself, backed up by the Lammerlaw, and its remarkable stone, surveying now smilingly and anon frowningly everything above, around, and beneath him.

Even when this survey is taking place, the horses are moving onwards, and after a sudden and somewhat rapid descent, for which a good brake and steady cattle are indispensable, the sea level may be regained; but to avoid unnecessary risk of being bogged and stuck, although at the loss of the sight, "o' some bonnie spots," the driver will take a little longer route and reach the road from Green Island Borough, celebrated for its hams and bacon, by an easier gradient, proceeding thence smoothly and comfortably along, and crossing the bridge over the Kaikorai stream, we are fairly on the high road to Boat Harbour, re-christened Brighton. A well-sheltered little harbour it is, where safe places for bathing can be selected, and in moderate weather the pleasures of boating and fishing can be indulged in; and as the country around has plenty attractions for riding, walking, or collecting specimens, Brighton has many of the requirements of a page 278watering place, to which dignity it may some day attain in the distant future.

At Brighton there is a good country accommodation house, where a plain, substantial repast can be obtained, and the water is first-class. Here, too, a pre-arrangement can be made for a change of horses, as the journey going and coming is rather too severe a tax on the willing steeds.

The farthest away headland within the range of vision is the Nugget Point, south of the Clutha River, which is so prominent as to shut out everything beyond from view. Nearer at hand the Wangaloa stream empties itself into the sea, and still carrying the eye northward, Quoin Point and the Tokomairiro River, with its small island rock, can be descried, and passing Akatore we see the Taieri Mouth, which is the limit of our journey. Having arrived at the south bank of the river, whilst the horses are having a spell, the man in charge of the punt, who is one of the oldest residents in the Province, will convey us safely across to the opposite side for a trifle, and, if inclined to listen, will tell some reminiscences of the past, interesting in the extreme. We are now landed on the north side of the Taieri, where a few scattered houses can be seen. This is called the Township of Hull, at present, and likely long to remain, in embryo, although the discovery of a large deposit of the black oxide of manganese may add a few souls to its present limited population. Looking up the river and on its overhanging hills on both sides, new and distinct sources of enchantment will be opened up to view, whose attractions will be visited on our next excursion.

But we must retrace our steps, so coming back to Brighton the return journey to Dunedin should be varied by taking the main south road up the Kaikorai Yalley instead of the way we came. By so doing an easier route is obtained, and we pass close to nearly the whole of the busy industrial hives which we saw from the top of the upper Green Island on the beginning of our journey.

Leaving Green Island Borough behind, we pass these various works in rapid succession till we reach the top of Look-out Point, and after a glimpse is obtained of the Industrial School, we descend quickly through the Caversham Yalley, and passing the now unoccupied Immigration Barracks and the page 279Benevolent Institution, we reach town in good time, and ready to do justice to a well-appointed dinner.