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Samoan Material Culture

Figure 168.—Sandal (se'e vae), technique in fau bast:

Figure 168.—Sandal (se'e vae), technique in fau bast:

Figure 168.—Sandal (se'e vae), technique in fau bast:

a, a strip of bast an inch wide, is wound loosely around the hand for about five turns to form the outer boundary element of the sandal. The size of the loop suits the size of the foot, the length being from the heel to the root of the toes. b, A second strip (2) is wrapped transverse around the folded first strip, commencing where the first strip ended (3); c, the strip is con tinued on with overlapping seizing to bind the folds of the first strip together and thickeni the whole border loop; d, having completed the round of seizing, the second strip, is carried down the middle line of the now laterally compressed loop (1) around its far end (4) and back to the starting point; e, the working strip (2) is brought around the near end of the oval (1) and then around the double middle strip; f, the working strip is bound around both middle strips for their full length and then brought back to the middle, where it makes a transverse turn around each side border of the oval; g, the two side radials are then wrapped closely in turn and a long three-ply braid of fau bast (5) is laid against the two sides of the oval in such a way as to form a loop at one end (6) The working strip (2) is run spirally to midway of one of the long radials and passed from side to side around the rim and the braid, interlacing at the same time with the long radial. h, The working strip is then manipulated so as to fill in the oval binding element with transverse turns. The strip passes around the rim and braid at each side and alternately above and below the middle longitudinal radials. Fresh strips are added by wrapping the commencing end around the finishing end of the old strip at the rim as in (b, c). k, As the transverse turns get closer together, the pointed stick is used to open a way between the previous turns. The end of the working strip is also folded together to form a point and bound with a thin strip of fibre (7). This stiffens and narrows the end so that it may be pushed through the holes made by the stick. Additional transverse turns are made with the aid of the stick between those already made and the working strip carried back to the other end. Some sandals end at this stage. m, Short turns may be taken around the transverse turns by working down the longitudinal on either side of the middle. When no more can be made, the sandal is completed. The loop (6) is drawn out to a suitable size as the cords (5) may be pulled in either direction. n, The sandal is worn by placing the loop end forward and bringing up the loop cord between the big and second toes and the fourth and fifth respectively. This differs from the Cook Islands and New Zealand method where the loop is towards the heel. The two tree cords at the other end of the sandal are crossed behind the heel, brought forward through the toe loop and returned on the same sides to pass around the cords near their points of emergence from the sandal. They then pass forwards to be tied over the dorsum of the foot.