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Samoan Material Culture

Figure 163.—Fine mat, upper edge. This is a variation of the method shown in figure 158 with the 'ie fau, where after the new sinistral from below is laid in the shed formed at the working edge, an element of the top dextral is turned down over it to define the edge. In the 'ie fau, the turned down dextral runs down the whole length of the working edge and projects below as a body tag. In the fine mat, the turned-down dextral supplies the third element to form a braid reinforcement as in the ca…

Figure 163.—Fine mat, upper edge. This is a variation of the method shown in figure 158 with the 'ie fau, where after the new sinistral from below is laid in the shed formed at the working edge, an element of the top dextral is turned down over it to define the edge. In the 'ie fau, the turned down dextral runs down the whole length of the working edge and projects below as a body tag. In the fine mat, the turned-down dextral supplies the third element to form a braid reinforcement as in the case of the lower border:

Figure 163.—Fine mat, upper edge. This is a variation of the method shown in figure 158 with the 'ie fau, where after the new sinistral from below is laid in the shed formed at the working edge, an element of the top dextral is turned down over it to define the edge. In the 'ie fau, the turned down dextral runs down the whole length of the working edge and projects below as a body tag. In the fine mat, the turned-down dextral supplies the third element to form a braid reinforcement as in the case of the lower border:

a, The working edge of 8 dextrals at the left upper corner have been separated into two sets of alternates and the working sinistral (1") placed in the shed. Of the top double dextral, the upper element (1) has been turned back to comply with the check technique, while the under element (1'). is turned down at right angles upon the sinistral (1") to form the turn that defines the edge, and also to supply the third element. b, The next complete movement consists of reversing the two sets of alternates over the new sinistral (1") and provides a shed for the next sinistral. Only part of the movement is shown in (b). Thus the top dextral (1) has been brought over the sinistral, the weft (2) picked up and brought back, (3) brought over and (4) back. Here the usual movement stops, for the turned-down element (1') to function as a third element in the braid must return to the edge. It is therefore turned at right angles to its course as shown. c, The weft movement from (4) is now continued by bringing (5) forward so that it carries the third element (1') under it and reversing (6, 7 and 8) respectively. The shed is ready for the next sinistral. With each movement, however, the dextral which was top in the last movement drops out of action in the working set while a new one from below completes the complement. Thus the weft (1) is finished with and acts as a fringe element. The top weft in the working set is now (2) which has been turned back. d, Here the next sinistral (2") has been placed in position and the weft movement made over it. Thus, the under element of the top weft (2) was turned down on the sinistral before the reversing of the dextrals took place. After the wefts (2 and 4) had been turned forward and (3 and 5) brought back, the turned-down third element (2') is turned forward at right angles and the weft (6) turned forward with it. The new weft (9) now comes into the working combination in place of the discarded (1). Thus, the under elements of the top wefts are turned down on the new sinistral and are turned at right angles on the under surface of the third dextral weft from the top which crosses over the sinistral With this weft it reaches the upper edge. With the weft element (5) which carries the turned back third element (1') every top weft will have three elements. One of these forms the turn leaving two in the dextral fringe elements. The ends of the sinistrals after crossing the upper edge form the second or upper layer of the fringe.