Samoa Under the Sailing Gods
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I
In the year 1839 the Navigators Islands were visited by the United States Exploring Expedition under Commander Wilkes.
He proceeded to Tutuila and had the privilege of attending Mr. Murray's church. Here Wilkes saw the wife of a leading chief becomingly arrayed in a few little presents the Americans had given her. "These consisted of a red calico gown, four or five petticoats of different colours, woollen socks, green slippers, cap and bonnet, a large plaid blanket shawl, and a pair of polar gloves, the whole surmounted by a flaming red silk umbrella." The thermometer stood at eighty-seven. "It was difficult to keep our eyes off her during the service, and before the end of it, all her finery became awry." But this was by no means solitary evidence of the work of grace in that particular direction. At Apia, in due course, Commander Wilkes met Malietoa. He wore "pantaloons, a round jacket, and a pink-and-white-striped cotton shirt." A delightful contrast indeed to his appearance as when first seen by John Williams!
A printing-press, said Wilkes, had been established by the London Mission at Upolu, and rapid progress was making in the translation of the Scriptures, of which some portions were already published. Many publications had been issued from this press; among them he regretted to observe a small tract containing a violent attack upon the Roman Catholics. "The sole object of this tract was to prepossess the minds of the natives against the missionaries of the Papal Church, in case they should visit these islands." This struck him as being at variance with the first principles of the Christian religion, and he could not refrain from expressing an opinion that the tract was calculated to do much harm.
Wilkes computed that about two-thirds of the whole population belonged to the Christian party. In different trips across Upolu, many of the "Devil's," or unconverted, settlements were visited, where the Americans were always treated with extreme hospitality. A party, it was said—and it holds good to this day—entering a village, go without inquiring how or where they are to be entertained, and take up their quarters in the great house, or fale-tele. In a short time the chief and principal personages collect and visit the strangers, telling them in a set speech the pleasure they enjoy at their arrival and their delight to entertain them. This was mostly said in what they termed "Talagota," or speech of the lips, and much complimentary language ensued. The Samoan language, Wilkes remarked, abounded in phrases adapted to this use, and worthy of a refined people. After this interchange of compliments, the young women assembled to treat the strangers to kava. During this time the young men were employed collecting and cooking food. This was all done with great despatch. The pigs were killed; taro collected; the oven heated; and baskets made to hold the viands. In the feast they were well assured of sharing, and therefore had a strong stimulus to exertion, for the strangers on receiving the food always returned a part of it to the entertainers. Thus all the village was occupied with the entertainment, and a scene of frolicking ensued until the visitors saw fit to take their departure. Among the "heathen," dancing always followed this feast; but the Christian villages had abandoned all dancing.
The females, it was recorded, frequently used to wear a wreath of flowers, which gave them a picturesque and pleasant appearance; "but the use of flowers as ornaments has been interdicted by the missionary teachers." Among other prohibitions, it seems, was bathing on the Sabbath.
Many whitewashed houses, we are told, were now to be seen, for the natives had been taught the use of lime by the missionaries, and were beginning to use it in their dwellings. "All the missionaries' houses have plastered walls, and board floors, and are very comfortable."