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Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition: During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. Volume One.

Contents

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Contents.

Chapter I. Page
Madeira. 1
Departure from the United States—Voyage to Madeira—Arrival at Funchal—Appearance of Madeira from the Sea—Landing at Funchal—Visit to the Civil and Military Governors—Streets, and Mode of Transportation—Criminals and Prisons—Hides in Madeira—Curral—Population of Madeira—Wine—Government—Character of the Inhabitants—Dress—Dwellings—Mode of Travelling—Employments of the People—Wine—making—Lower Classes—Natural History—Quinta of Mr. Bean—Departure from Madeira.
Chapter II.
Cape De Verdes—Rio Janeiro 11
Squadron Sails from Madeira—Arrival at St. Jago—Appearance of the Island—Town of Porto Praya—Its Population—Language—Visit to the Governor—Public Fountain—Market—Drill of Recruits—Droughts—Climate—Slaves—Dress—Departure from Porto Praya—Arrival at Rio Janeiro.
Chapter III.
Rio Janeiro 16
Rio Janeiro—Its Improvements—Its Present Condition—Churches—The Misericordia—Funerals—Emperor's Birthday—Aqueducts—Public Garden—Museum—Bay and Harbour—Vegetation—Botanic Garden—Slave Population—Coffeecarriers—Researches into the Nations of Africa—Treatment of Slaves—Streets of the City—Society—White—jacket Ball—Defects in the Equipment of the Squadron—Trip to the Organ Mountains—Ascent of the Corcovado.
Chapter IV.
The Brazils—Rio Negro—Terra Del Fuego 30
Character of the Brazilians—Constitution of the Empire—Ruling Party—Elec—tive Regency—Administration of Justice—Elective Franchise—Army—Navy—Schools—Slavery—Feeling towards Foreigners—Population—National Debt, Revenue, and Expenditure—Commerce—Departure from Rio—Passage to Rio Negro—Arrival there—Guachos—Description of the Country—River and Tides—Climate—Vegetation—Convict Settlement—Communication with Buenos Ayres—Departure from Rio Negro—Staten Land—Straits of Le Maire—Appearance of Terra del Fuego—Its Harbour—Meeting with the Relief—Natives—Intercourse with them—Arrival at Orange Harbour. page vi
Chapter V.
Terra Del Fuego—Southern Cruise 42
Orange Harbour—Plan of the Squadron's Operations—Natives—Their Appearance—Their Huts—Their Talent for Mimicry—Their Food—Departure of Porpoise—Whale Ship—Height of Waves—King George's Island—O'Brien's and Aspland's Islands—Palmer's Land—Adventure Islets—Sea—Gull ordered to return—Return of the Porpoise—Elephant Island—Good Success Bay—Boat detained—Attempt to relieve—Accident—Further Attempt to relieve the Party—Porpoise Compelled to put to sea—Return to Good Success Bay—Party join—Their Transactions—Leave Good Success Bay—Nassau Bay—Natives—Orange Harbour—Sea-Gull—Deception Island—Temperature—Visit to Crater—Force of Wind—Sea-Gull sent in search of Launch—Loss of that Boat—Arrival of Flying-Fish.
Chapter VI.
Southern Cruise—Valparaiso 55
Departure of Peacock and Flying-Fish—Gale—Separation—Defective Outfits of Peacock—Accident to William Stewart—His Death—First Iceberg—Gale—Situation of Peacock—Birds—Aurora Australis—Snow-storm—Flying-Fish rejoins—Lieutenant Walker's Report—Situation of Vessels—Captain Hudson, in the Peacock, resolves to return—Ship on Fire—Flying-Fish dispatched for Orange Harbour—Arrival of Peacock at Valparaiso—Find the Relief—Difficulties encountered—Gale—Tower Rocks—Noir Island—Dangerous Position—Loss of Anchors—The Relief proceeds to Valparaiso—Arrival of Flying-Fish at Orange Harbour—Preparations for Departure—Climate—Animals—Birds—Vincennes and Porpoise take their departure—Sea—Gull and Flying-Fish to await the Relief—Vincennes and Porpoise part company—Vincennes' Arrival at Valparaiso—The Peacock there—Arrival of Porpoise and Flying-Fish—Visit to Authorities of Valparaiso—Landing of Instruments—Customhouse officers—Valparaiso—Description of it—Its Order and Government—Trait of Chilians—Police—Their Signal—Shops—Amusements—Chingano—Dancers—Samacueca Higher Classes—Dress—Taste for Music—Fondness for Flowers—General Prieto—Honours paid him—Ball—Description of it
Chapter VII.
Chili 66
Chili (continued)—Journey into the Interior—Biloches—Casa Blanca—Geological Formation—Curacovi—Cuesta de Zapata—Cuesta del Prado—Roads—Transportation of Goods—Beggars—Plain of Maypo—Cordilleras—St. Jago—Mint—Library—Amusements—Fashions—Market—Climate—Excursion to the Cordilleras—Mountain Scenery—Snow—Guanacoes—Heat—Return to St. Jago—Maypocho—Journey to San Felipe—Quillota—Town of San Felipe—Copper Mines—Earthquakes—Population of Chili.
Chapter VIII.
Peru 77
Porpoise sails—Difficulties of leaving the Bay—Regulations of Port badly observed—Conduct of Captain of Hamburg Vessel—Part company with Peacock and Tender—Make the Coast of Peru—Enter Bouqueron Passage—Island of San Lorenzo—Buryingground—Change of Anchorage to Callao—page viiVessels in Port—Castle—Description of Houses—Religious Practices—Market—Old Callao—Effects of Earthquake—Vaults for Depositing the Dead—Population of Callao—Road to Lima—Bella Vista—Approach to Lima—Entrance and Appearance—Its Plan—Amusements—Saya and Manta—Its Privileges—Houses—Portales or Arcades—Palace—Fountain—Cathedral—Crypt—Market—Convent of San Francisco—Library—Signature of Pizarro—Classes of Natives—Newspapers—Earthquakes—Climate—Rain—The Rimac.
Chapter IX.
Peru (continued) 88
Trip to the Cordilleras—Preparations for the Journey—Passports—Departure—Effect of Official Papers—Rums of Inca Towns—Ponchorua—Caballeros—Convoy of Silver—Accommodations—Earthquakes—Route up the Valley of Caxavillo—Face of Country—St. Rosa de Quivi—Yaso—Obrajillo—Difficulties in procuring Mules—Beauty of Situation—Llamas—Rioters—Plundering of Inhabitants—Culnai—La Vinda—Vegetation—Muleteers encountered—Crest of the Cordilleras—Casa Cancha—Its Accommodations—Cookingrange—Sickness of Party—Snow-storm—Alpamarca—Company of Peruvians—Their Attentions—Process of Amalgamation of Ore—Visit to the Mine—Face of the Mountain—Road—Baños—Beauty of Valley—Vegetation—Threatened Attack of a Condor—Portrait—Incidents relating to it—Description of Baño—Its Habitations—State of Horses—Return to Casa Cancha—Chilian Convoy from Pasco—Pasco—Mines—Veins of Ore—Number of Mines in operation—Laws in Relation to Silver Mines—Duties—Hill of Raco—New Speculations in 1840—Difficulties in purchasing Mines—Political State of the Country adverse to this Business—Temperature—Line of Perpetual Snow—Ammonite—Chicrine—Travelling Parties—Frenchman—His Compliments and Fate—Culnai—Cultivation—Hospitality—Obrajillo—Accommodations—Want of Gallantry—Guides—Settlement—Bridal Party—Yaso—Robbery—Yanga—Hostess—Angelita—Caballeros—Return to Lima—Botanical Review—Geological Character of the Country—Flying-Fish sent to Pachacamac—Landing—Temple—Town—Tombs—Their Contents—Embarkation—Return to Callao—Commerce and Trade of Peru.
Chapter X.
Paumotu Group. 111
Storeship Relief ordered Home—Departure—Peruvian Brig—Small-pox—General Order—Proposed Koute—Clermont de Tonnerre—Appearance of it—Survey—Natives—John Sac—Difficulties with the Natives—Landing—Serle Island—Honden—Surveys—Coral Islands—Vegetation—Birds—Disappointment Islands—Inhabitants—Wytoohee—Otooho—Raraka—Landing—Onehanded Chief—His Visit to the Ship—Inhabitants—Leavetaking—Gale—Narrow Escape of Peacock—Vincennes Island—Landing—Aratica Island—Communication with its Inhabitants—Tender despatched to King George's Group—Vincennes and Peacock discover Manhii and Ahii Islands—Survey—Landing—Observations—Natives—Deserter—Eclipse—Peacock dispatched to Rurick Island—Vincennes passes to Nairsa—Inhabitants—Krusenstern's Island—Metia Island—Its appearance—Survey—Landing—Appearance of the Island—Departure—Arrival at Tahiti—Anchor in Matavai Bay—Proceedings of Porpoise—Proceedings of Peacock—Arutua—Survey—Nairsa or Dean's Island—Coral Blocks—Metia Island—Tetuaroa—Flying-Fish—Tiokea and Ouro—History of Paumotu Group—Character of its Inhabitants—Population. page viii
Chapter XI.
Tahiti 130
General Aspect of Tahiti—Arrival and Reception—General Figure of the Island—Its Geological Structure—An Observatory established—Survey of Harbours—Height of Mountains—The Governor of Matavai—His Hospitality—Church at Matavai—Character of the Natives—School at Papieti—General Diffusion of Education—Complaints of the American Consul—Council of the Chiefs—Influence of the Missionaries—Change of the National Dress—General View of the Labours of the Missionaries—Improvement in the Native Character—Causes of Want of Industry—Constitution of Tahiti—Courts of Justice—Queen and Royal Family—Judges of the Supreme Court—State of Parties—Case of the Catholic Priests—Dwellings of the Natives—Appearance of the Females—Dress of the two Sexes—Taste of the Natives for Flowers—Cookery and Mode of Eating—Music of the Islanders—Expedition to Lake Waiherea—Foreign Trade of Tahiti.
Chapter XII.
Tahiti and Eimeo 144
The Porpoise sails for the Samoan or Navigator's Group—Application from "Jim" the Pilot—The Vincennes proceeds to Papieti—Interview with the Chiefs—General Freyre—Hitoti, a Native Chief—Geological Structure of Tahiti—Village and Bay of Papieti—Population of Tahiti—Diseases—Criminal Trial—Useful Plants—Ascent of Mount Aorai—Absence of Fossils on Tahitian Mountains—Manufactures of Tahiti—Theatricals by the Crew of the Peacock—Vincennes sails for Eimeo—Character of the Natives—Geological Features of Eimeo—Sugar Plantations—Conclusion.
Chapter XIII.
Samoan Group—Rose Island—Tutuila 153
Departure of the Vincennes from Eimeo—Bellinghausen's Island—Rose Island—Manua—Its Description—Canoes of Manua—Oloosinga—Its Description—House of the King—His Entertainment—Return, to the Ship—Coral Reef of Oloosinga—Ofoo—Appearance of Tutuila—Harbour of Pago—Pago—Toa, a Native Chief—Geological Structure of Tutuila—Appearance and Character of Its Inhabitants—La Perouse's Expedition—Visit to Toa—His Feast—Bathing—Mode of Living Employments and Amusements—Mr. Murray, the Missionary—Customs of the Natives—Public Worship—The Peacock and Flying-Fish sail for Upolu—Climate—Visit to Heathen Villages.
Chapter XIV.
Samoan Group—Upolu—Savaii 164
Departure of the Vincennes from Tutuila—Her Narrow Escape from Wreck—Appearance of Upolu—Message from Captain Hudson—Trial of Tuvai for Murder—Council of the Chiefs—Arguments in Behalf of Tuvai—Captain Hudson's Reply—Decision of the Case of Tuvai—His Behaviour—Complaints of the Natives against Whalers—Pea's Visit to Tuvai—Outrages of Opotuno, a Native Chief—Interview with Malietoa—His Daughter—Lake of Lauto—Its Legend—Superstition regarding it—Attempt to Capture Opotuno—Fono, or Council of High Chiefs—Its Object—Regulations discussed and adopted—De-page ixmand for Opotuno—Fono adjourned—Its Second Meeting—Speech of Malietoa's Orator—Reward offered for the Apprehension of Opotuno—Territorial Divisions of Upolu—Tyranny of Tamafago—War of Aana—Desolation of that District—Island of Manono—Island of Apolima—Proceedings of the Porpoise at Savaii—Bay of Mataatua—Peculiarities of Inhabitants—Sapapale—Dr. Pickering's Journey in the Interior of Savaii—Curiosity of the Natives—Fishing on the Coral Reef—Description of Savaii—The Porpoise proceeds to Tutuila—Reunion of the Squadron—Earthquakes.
Chapter XV.
Samoan Group 179
Geographical Position of the Samoan Group—Its Harbours—Tides and Currents—Its Climate—Size of the Islands—Soil and Productions of the Group—Its Cultivation—Quadrupeds—Birds—Reptiles—Fish—Products available for Commerce—Language of its Natives—Their Diseases—Their General Appearance—Their National Character—Labours of the Missionaries—Native Missionaries—Selection of them for the New Hebrides—Population of the Islands—Religion of the Heathen—Their Idea of the Creation—0fa Future State—Their Omens—Their Superstition—Their Dances—Their Musical Instruments—Their Amusements—Their Births—Their Marriages and Courtship—Their Adoption of Children—Their Burials—Their Mourning—Their Manners and Appearance—Their Dress—Improvement in the Ancient Dress—Tattooing—Their Manufacture of Tapa and Mats—Samoan Canoes—Boat—Song—Houses of the Natives—Their Lights—Their Food—Their Habits—Their Malangas—Their Punishments for Crimes—Their Wars—Their OIos—Their Peacemaking—Classes of Samoan Society—Allotment of Lauds—Mode of Government—Descent of Chieftainship—Ceremonies at the Fonos.
Chapter XVI.
New South Wales 207
Departure from the Samoan Group—Wallis Island—Tuvai put on Shore—Hoorn Island—Matthews' Rock—Ball's Pyramid—Port Jackson entered—Arrival at Sydney—Visit to the Governor—Fort Macquarie—Fate of Mr. Williams—Description of the Town of Sydney—Its Streets—Its Resemblance to American Towns—Prevalence of Intoxication—Government—House—Drive to South Head—Public Grounds—Mr. Cunningham the Botanist—His melancholy Fate—Country around Sydney—General Description of that Colony—Illawarra—Droughts and Floods—Rivers of New South Wales—Its Mineral Products—Its Water—Its Climate—Its Temperature—Prevailing Winds—Its Vegetation—Monotony of its Scenery—Soil of Sydney—Horticultural Exhibition—Natives of Australia—Their Numbers—Their Physical Traits—Their Character—Their Conflicts—Their Corrobory Dances—Their Weapons—Their mode of Climbing—Their Social System—Their Custom of "Making Young Men"—Their Marriages—Burial of their Dead—Arrival of Convict Ship—Prison Fare on Board—Evils of the System—Punishments—Departure from Sydney—Preparations for Antarctic Cruise.
ChapterXVII.
Antarctic Cruise 231
Preliminary Remarks—Disputed Claims of Priority of Discovery—Proceedings of the Squadron to the Second of January—Separation of the Flying-Fish and Peacock—First Iceberg seen—Fall in with the Icy Barrier—Porpoise lost sight of—Proceedings of the Peacock from the Third of January—Her Visit to Macquarie's Island—First Iceberg seen by her—She falls in with the Icy Barrier—Proceedings of the Porpoise—Sea—Elephants seen and taken—Land seen from all the Vessels—Proceedings of the Vincennes to the Sixteenth of January—she page xenters a deep Bay in the Barrier—Peacock and Porpoise seen—Peacock spoken—Land distinctly seen from the Vincennes and Peacock—Fight between a Whale and "Killer"—Proceedings of the Peacock—Soundings obtained by her—Her Perilous Situation and Providential Escape—Her crippled Condition—Captain Hudson resolves to return—His admirable Conduct, and that of his Officers and Crew.
Chapter XVIII.
Antarctic Cruise (continued) 251
Proceedings of the Vincennes from the twenty-second of January—Disappointment Bay—Watering on the Ice—Diagrams of the Ice-Islands—Their Utility—Violent Gale and Snow-storm—Narrow Escape from Striking the Ice—The Open Sea reached—Return of Fine Weather—Vincennes stands again to the South, and reaches the Icy Barrier—Piner's Bay—Soundings in Thirty Fathoms—Another Violent Gale—Report of the Medical Officers—Opinion of the Wardroom Officers—Determination to proceed with the Cruise—Its Events up to the Fourteenth of February—Landing on an Iceberg—Specimens of Rocks obtained—Inquiry in Relation to the Formation of Icebergs—Their Separation from the Land—Their Progress—Further Evidence in relation to the Antarctic Continent—Estimate of the Rate at which the Floating Ice moves—The Vincennes begins her Return to the North.
Chapter XIX.
Antarctic Cruise (Continued) 274
Proceedings of the Porpoise from the twenty-second to the thirtieth of January—French Squadron seen—Its Commander refuses to speak the Porpoise—Proceedings up to the third of February—Gale—Further Proceedings to the twelfth of February—Specimens of Rock obtained—Western limit of her Cruise—Return to the eastward—Porpoise stands to the northward—Auckland Islands—Porpoise arrives at the Bay of Islands—Cruise of the Flying-Fish—Landing at Macquarie's Island—Proceedings of the Flying Fish up to the fourth of February—State of her Crew—Their Letter to Lieutenant Pinkney—He resolves to Return—Arrival of the Flying-Fish at the Bay of Islands—Events during the return of the Vincennes—She Fails to reach Van Diemen's Land—Arrival of the Vincennes at Sydney—Peacock found there—Return of the Peacock from the Icy Barrier—She makes Macquarie's Island—She arrives at Sydney—State of the Peacock—Hospitalities received at Sydney.
Chapter XX.
New Zealand 294
Departure from Sydney—Passage to New Zealand—Arrival at the Bay of Islands—Bay of Islands—Rivers which fall into it—Face of the Country—Hot Spring of Taiaimi—Missionary Establishment at Pahia—Kororarika—English Police Magistrate and Acting Governor—Treaty of Cession to England—Conduct of the American Consul—Installation of the Lieutenant—Governor—Opinion of the Chiefs in relation to the Treaty—Foreign Residents—High Price of Land—Taboo—Pas, or Fortified Towns—Dwellings—Tomb—Dress of the Natives—Their Food—Their Arms and Ornaments—King Pomare—Mauparawa—Charley Pomare—Pomare's Wars—Ceremony of his Return—His Meanness—Population of New Zealand—Visit to Wangarara—Politeness of Ko-Towatowa—Wangarara Bay—Character of the New Zealanders—Their Personal Appearance—Tradition in relation to their Origin—Tattooed Heads—Cannibalism—Condition and Prospects of the Natives—Native Dances—Music—Chatham Island—Climate of New Zealand—Diseases—Soil—Cultivation—Vegetable Productions—Timber—Canoes—Quadrupeds—Birds—Commerce.