page 88

Chapter IX.
Peru (continued).

When the Relief arrived at Callao, Messrs. Pickering, Rich, Agate, and Brackenridge obtained permission to make a jaunt to the Cordilleras of Peru, for the purpose of making botanical collections.

Mr. Rich spoke the Spanish language well, which afforded the party many facilities for overcoming the difficulties that were thrown in their way.

In Lima the journey was considered as a very serious undertaking, and likely to be attended with much danger, from the banditti who frequent the route they intended to pass over-that to the mines of Pasco. Through the friendly assistance of Mr. Biggs, of the house of Messrs. Bartlett and Co., everything was made easy. By his advice, they supplied themselves, page 89not only with blankets and horse-furniture, but with all sorts of provisions, and particularly with bread, of which they took as much as they could carry, notwithstanding the country was described as well inhabited. As a preliminary step, it was necessary to provide themselves with passports, for which they lost no time in applying. After the delay of a day, the passports came in the form of a letter of protection and recommendation from Lafuente himself, to the local authorities throughout all Peru, couched in the most liberal terms, and treating the affair with as much importance as if it were a national one. It is a regulation that the names of all who receive passports shall be published in the official gazette; their intentions, therefore, became known to all Lima. Prom the few who are gazetted, it would appear that but a small number travel into the interior, or else that the regulation is not very strictly complied with.

The injunction to render the party assistance in case of need was very strong, and among other things specified to be furnished, was clothing, which was thought to look somewhat ominous in this country of banditti. In spite of the positive terms in which the passport was expressed, it was found of little effect in procuring them mules or horses; and it was not till after much trouble and disappointment on many sides, that horses were at last obtained from the post establishment.

On the 16th May they were ready to set out; their proposed route was up the valley of the Rio de Caxavillo, the river next to the northward of the Rimac. Leaving Lima, they passed through the suburbs of San Lazaro, at the gate of which, and for the only time during the journey, they were desired to show their passports. Some little difficulty arose, and an intention was expressed to unload the baggage-mule for examination. This, however, was soon removed by the reading of the passport, and the examination ended in many bows, and the repeated exclamation, "Go on, go on! God speed you!" Such was the talismanic effect of an officiai document at the period of our visit.

At the distance of three leagues from Lima, they passed through the ruins of an Inca town, situated (as they uniformly found them afterwards) just on the border of the irrigated valley. The walls of the town were very thick, built of mud and unburnt brick, at right angles, very much after the modern manner; the hills also were seen covered with the ruins of Indian buildings, some of them resembling fortifications.

At six leagues from Lima they reached Ponchorua, the first stopping-place; but the party concluded to go a league beyond it to Caballeros, where they passed the night. They arrived there in sufficient time to make a short excursion to the banks of the Rio de Caxavillo, which appeared a larger stream than the Rimac.

Around Caballeros are very extensive meadows and fields of clover. The posada was found occupied by the guard and muleteers, who acted as a convoy of silver from Pasco. They gave up the only room in the house for our gentlemen, into which they were shown, and where a good supper was provided for them, while the guard took up their quarters in the yard. The metal, it was observed, page 90was in large masses of piña, some of them heavy enough to be a load for a mule, and an inconvenient burden to run away with.

They passed the night on the tables and rude seats, under cover—a luxury they had not yet learned to appreciate.

At midnight they felt the shock of an earthquake. A distant hollow sound was at first heard, which seemed to approach, increasing rapidly, and before they could spring to their feet, the house was rolled and shaken as if it had been on an agitated sea. Mr. Rich says that it was with difficulty he could hold himself on the table where he had been lying. The natives of the adjoining huts ran out into the road, uttering horrible shrieks, striking their breasts, and offering up prayers to the Holy Virgin to protect them. The shock continued severe for forty seconds, but lasted altogether about two minutes; it produced a slight nausea, like sea-sickness, which continued for some time afterwards, and a bewildering sensation, that rendered it difficult to collect their ideas to speak. The sound resembled that produced by throwing stones over precipices, so as to roll on hollow ground beneath. This earthquake was the most violent that had been experienced for some time, and was felt sensibly at Lima and through all lower Peru. No material damage was done-in consequence, according to the people of the country, of its not getting to the surface.

Early on the 17th the party set out up the dry mountain valley, the soil of which is composed of stones and loose powdery earth. This kind of ground continued for five leagues, with not a drop of water, nor was a plant or bird collected; nothing was seen growing but a few Tillandsias. On this route they passed many crosses, marking the spots where there had been loss of life; a sight that was not calculated to excite pleasing thoughts, and bringing to mind not only the great number of murders that had taken place, but the daily occurrence of attacks upon small parties of travellers by the desperadoes of Peru.

Immediately on the confines of this dreary waste is Yanga, a deserted-looking place, but having some good gardens and orchards. At noon they reached Santa Rosa de Quivi, a small place, where they procured some good fruit. After travelling two leagues, they at dark reached Yaso, and stopped at the postmaster's house; he was not at home, but they were permitted to sleep in the porch or verandah. Nothing edible was to be found in the village, except a few potatoes, after supping on which, they disposed themselves on the clay and stones, with their arms ready for service—a precaution necessary at times, even in the most frequented places in Peru.

During the day, they had been much annoyed by sand-flies and fleas; besides these, they had a few musquitoes, but the latter are seldom felt in Peru.

The screaming of parrots during the night had announced that some change had taken place in the vegetation. In the morning they found this to be the case. The land in the vicinity of the town was cultivated, and some good orchards and fields of clover were seen; the mountains, which had hitherto been gray with Tillandsias, had now assumed a greenish tinge. Agaves made their appearance page 91here, and a few miles beyond, the hills became entirely green; all showed that a different region had been entered. The inclined roofs of the huts proved that rains were experienced, and that it was found necessary by the inhabitants to protect themselves from them.

The valley had now become more contracted, and level ground was seldom seen; the mountains increased in elevation, the roads and scenery partaking of the character of Madeira. Cascades were seen springing from almost the very summits of the high peaks; cattle were grazing, and occasional cultivated patches were mingled with the pasture-grounds; the aid of irrigation was no longer necessary; and the Cordillera plants of the Flora Peruviana, with the vegetation made known by Humboldt and Bonpland, were recognised. At noon, after travelling six leagues, they reached Obrajillo, the rendezvous of the two celebrated Spanish botanists, Ruiz and Pavon, authors of the Flora Peruviana.

There are three towns, Obrajillo, Canta, and San Miguel, about a mile distant from each other, said to contain three or four thousand inhabitants. At Obrajillo, the general to whom they had letters of introduction was not at home; some difficulty in getting mules occurred in consequence; and it was not until much time and patience had been exhausted, that our gentlemen understood the real difficulty, which was, that the horses they had brought from the low country were not considered capable of standing the cold and fatigue of the mountains, the owners at Lima having refused to allow their mules to cross the mountains. They were assisted, however, in procuring mules and guides by the general's son.

Obrajillo, the largest of the three towns, contains about one hundred cottages. It has a stone church, with two towers, apparently of some age, which fronts on the open square. The dwellings are of one story, without floors, and almost without furniture; yet it is said to be the residence of many wealthy people. How true this may be, it was impossible, from appearances, to determine, for the high and low, the rich and the poor, all seem to live in the same style.

The difficulties that occurred in procuring mules for their journey, had delayed them so long, as to place it out of their power to proceed before the next day. The opportunity of visiting the environs was taken, and a large collection of plants was obtained, the annuals being found in the right season for making collections. The cascade which was seen as they approached was visited, and exhibited a picturesque and beautiful appearance, even when it was four miles distant.

At Obrajillo there are many pretty gardens and fields, under a good state of cultivation. The roadside itself looked like a flower-garden, and flowers of every hue were seen on either side, Calceolarias, Lobelias, &c.

Here was the first point where they had met the llama used as a beast of burden; the load which they carry is from seventy to ninety pounds.

On the 19th, at an early hour, some vagabonds, assuming the name of Chilians, went the rounds of the village, helping themselves page 92to everything they desired, to the utter dismay of the inhabitants, who made no resistance. The consequence was, that having neglected to supply themselves with bread the evening before, they lost the opportunity of doing it. This was a serious inconvenience, for Obrajillo supplies the upper country with bread, as Lima does the lower, and it is procured with difficulty, except at these two places. Potatoes were therefore taken as a substitute, though a very inconvenient one, from their great weight and bulk.

They were on the route by six o'clock, and an hour's ride brought them to a spot where the river formed a very picturesque rapid, soon after which they entered into a wild and romantic pass, between steep acclivities and precipices of immense height.

At ten o'clock they reached Culnai, a distance of five leagues; it contains about thirty cottages; its height is believed to be ten thousand feet above the sea, and here cultivation ceases, ending with the potato, Tropæolum, Oxalis, and Basella. The second region of plants also terminates here; and now ensued the "Paramera," or pasture region of the Andes, avoided by the inhabitants of the lower districts on account of the cold. This third region gives growth to a set of plants which make a gradual transition from those of the second region to low alpine scraggy bushes, none of which exceed two feet in height. The Paramera is remarkable for a dense sward of coarse grass, and low herbaceous plants, principally of the order Composites. The flowers of the latter, it was remarked, were particularly large in proportion to the plant. These form a rich pasturage for the flocks and herds, which are seen feeding in the valleys and along the sides of the hills.

No cultivation is attempted beyond Culnai, and but two species of Cacti were met with above this point.

They had hitherto, for the most part, followed a northerly direction, but now they diverged more to the north-east. The temperature was falling as they ascended, the air was clear and bracing, and the scenery, as they advanced, became more interesting, and even sublime. To its wild and precipitous features was now added the high snowy peak of Lavinda in the distance, and some few spots of snow were occasionally seen in places sheltered from the sun's rays. The mule-paths had become narrow, and when they met with mules, which was often the case, it became necessary to turn under the rocks, until the path was clear. On one occasion, one of the party allowed his mule to take the outside; the consequence was that a muleteer shoved mule and rider several feet over the bank. No injury was received, and the dilemma passed off with a good laugh at the fright.

The sagacity of the mules on these occasions is remarkable. They always endeavour to cling to the wall-side, and will succeed in doing it if not prevented by the rider. Their caution is great when they apprehend danger in passing over steep places; the instant danger was anticipated, the nose and four feet were used to ascertain its extent, which done, the animals cautiously proceeded, and reached the bottom with great care and ease, both to the rider and themselves.

page 93

About three o'clock they bad gained the fourth or alpine region, where they were met with sharp and cutting winds, accompanied with hail and snow, that proved very uncomfortable to their sun-burnt faces: this was supposed to be at an elevation of about fifteen thousand feet. Our gentlemen now felt the effects of the elevation in headache, difficulty of breathing, and excessive lassitude. The crest of the Cordilleras is at this place a league in width, the surface very uneven, containing small lakes without outlets, sunk in deep hollows; beyond this the streams which form the extreme sources of the Amazon were running to the eastward. After travelling two leagues on a gentle descent, they arrived at Casa Cancha about dusk.

Casa Cancha consists of three huts, and is nothing more than a muleteer's rendezvous; the place was in charge of two women, who, in expression, if not in form, might have been taken for witches. The accommodations, if they may be so called, were an apartment common to all the inmates, with no fastening to the door or windows, without a fire, and nothing but the hard ground to lie upon.

At night the thermometer frequently falls to the freezing point, and the climate is like that of winter; there is not, however, a stick of wood nor any resinous Umbelliferæ, as on the Chilian Andes, to be had, and the cooking is done with turf when it can be obtained, but dry cow-dung is most commonly used for this purpose. This is the only and the best establishment the place affords; even the first females in the country can procure no better accommodations, and will bear it for the night with contentment.

As a special mark of distinction, a smaller apartment was assigned to our gentlemen, in a hut adjoining that in which their supper was cooked, of which they witnessed the preparation. The cooking range was of peculiar construction, and might serve as a pattern for a modern cuisine. It occupied one corner of the apartment, and appeared to be convenient, and well adapted to the wants of the inmates.

After a time the fore-quarter of mutton made its appearance, in the hands of their landlady, scorched to a cinder. Being unprovided with a knife, she began to tear it into small pieces with her fingers. Our gentlemen remonstrated, but nothing would stop her until nearly every morsel of it had passed through her dirty hands. This, added to her state of intoxication, caused some of them to lose their supper from sheer disgust, though all agreed that she carved or tore it into pieces in a most dexterous manner.

After supper they were informed by their guides, in much consternation, that a band of Chilian marauders were approaching; the whole establishment was in great uproar. The party, however, proved to be a convoy. The officer in charge was civil, and engaged freely in conversation on the pending contest between Chili and Peru.

During the night the party were very much troubled with headache and difficulty in breathing; they passed an uncomfortable night on the clay floor. The thermometer in the doorway stood in the morning at 33°.

Casa Cancha is in a valley surrounded by lofty mountains. Its page 94height is fourteen thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. Pasturage in its vicinity is good; sheep and cattle are abundant; bread and potatoes are brought over the mountains from Obrajillo; of these they have oftentimes but a scanty supply, which was the case at this period. The evening previous to their arrival a theft had taken place there—a gentleman had had his fire-arms stolen; a great loss, when one takes into consideration the nature of the country, and the dangers to be encountered in travelling.

On the morning of the 20th, with one exception, they were all affected with vomiting, headache, and fever, and still suffering much from difficulty in breathing; this is usually felt on first visiting these elevated regions, and is said to be particularly so at night.

The morning proved so boisterous, with frequent hail-showers, that they determined to remain the clay, to rest their mules and recruit themselves. Their breakfast was more acceptable than the last night's supper; it consisted of olla-podrida and milk.

As the weather allowed them to botanise, they set out in two parties, but had not been occupied over two hours, before they were overtaken by a severe snow-storm, which entirely covered up all small plants, and made it difficult for them to scale the rocks.

On the 21st, they had determined to proceed to Baños, which, from the description of their guides, who were ignorant however of the route beyond Casa Cancha, they had been led to believe was on the eastern slope of the mountain.

They started at an early hour, with the wild geese flying and feeding around them, determining to visit Alpamarca, which is distant from Casa Cancha about two leagues; but owing to their guides being unacquainted with the paths, they were led about among the mountains, and over extensive plains, covered with coarse herbage. A variety of beautiful flowers were found, and many domesticated llamas were seen feeding. At eleven o'clock they stumbled, as if by accident, on the place, consisting of a number of huts; one of these showed the welcome sign of bread for sale, viz: a basket stuck upon a long pole; and they were fortunate in procuring some small rolls.

Alpamarca proved to be in the vicinity of a silver mine, and here they found a good company of Peruvian gentlemen, collected from various quarters, and among them the general to whom they had brought letters to Obrajillo. They were received with great kindness and attention; the company insisted upon their dismounting, and gave them the cheer they had prepared for themselves, which was readily partaken of. It was served in a large gourd-shell, and consisted of a Spanish hotch-potch, or olla, with carrots, pot-garlic, pepper, and small bits of mutton. It was observed, as the eatables were disappearing, that the Spanish dons now and then would partake of the tidbits, by reaching over their shoulders from behind. This repast was well timed, for our party had been fasting sufficiently long to enable them to do ample justice to it.

The Peruvians sent for the superintendent of the mine, and in the meantime showed the process of extracting the silver, which was as follows: the ore is broken up until it resembles earth; it is then page 95thrown into a large round vat, and mixed with mercury and water; sis or eight mules are then turned in and driven round and round, until the amalgam is formed; it is then put into a vessel, and stirred with water until the earth mixes with it, and the water being poured off, leaves the amalgam, whence the mercury is finally evaporated.

The ore appears to be taken almost entirely from the surface. It is poor, and the mines do not yield much profit. There are many old veins that have been extensively worked, but owing to their depth have been abandoned.

The superintendent arrived after a while; he proved to be an English miner, (Mr. R. Bevan,) who had been twenty years in the country. He was delighted to see our party, saying that an American and Englishman were all the same in Peru, and that he had not heard his own language spoken for two years. He informed them that the old Spaniards had worked the mines cheaper than any one has been able to do since. They were large landholders, and contrived to keep themselves in debt to their tenants; this they always paid in manufactured goods, very much in demand with the Indians who worked the mines, thus making a double profit on the wages. At the present time the mines are worked by Indians of a mixed blood, who have a language of their own. They are much addicted to the use of coca, (the leaf of the Erythroxylon coco, which is mixed and masticated with quinoa,) and without a supply of this leaf they will not work.

Mr. Bevan took the party to the mine, which is some distance up the mountains. Much difficulty was experienced in breathing the rarefied atmosphere, and great fatigue in walking; so much so, that it. was necessary to stop every few steps to rest; and, what was surprising, Mr. Bevan and the Indians who accompanied him, appeared to be more affected than any of the party. He assured them it was the same even with the Indians born on the spot, showing that neither time nor other circumstances can adapt a constitution to this elevated region. On reaching the mouth of the mine, they saw several emaciated and ghastly-looking Indians seated near the entrance; they descended a few yards into it, but found that time would not admit of the delay necessary to pass down to the places where they were at work; and wishing to devote their attention to the interesting region of botany in which they then were, they gave up their purpose of descending.

On no part of their journey did they find so many remarkable plants as on this mountain.

Towards the middle of the afternoon they returned to the hut, when they determined to proceed to Baños. Previous to leaving Alpamarca they had some difficulty with the guides, who were dissatisfied with their bargain; it therefore required some management to prevent them from deserting altogether, and caused our gentlemen some fear lest they might be compelled to return; but after much dispute the guides consented to proceed, although it must be allowed that the bargain was far from being advantageous to them.

Along the road to Baños they passed some high ridges, with snow page 96and ice coming at times down to the path; also lakes in deep ravines, somewhat resembling small craters, which, like all the rest they had seen, were tenanted by numerous water-fowl.

The crest of the Andes did not appear here quite so broad as it had been found to be four leagues to the southward, but its elevation was thought to be greater. The continuous ranges of snowy peaks in the direction of Pasco were very striking. The Indians have names for all the most remarkable ones, but the Spaniards embrace the whole, together with the principal one, under the name of La Vinda.

From the direction of the descent to the northward and westward, they began to suspect they were descending upon the western slope of the Cordilleras instead of the eastern; this proved to be the case, which was no small disappointment, as it was their original intention to reach the wooded district on the eastern slope, termed "Montanas." In this they were therefore disappointed. As they proceeded, the country improved, the climate became milder, and the soil richer; on their way they crossed a small stream which was said to be the source of the river Chancai.

At dark they reached Baños, which is computed to be upwards of five leagues from Casa Cancha. Baños is considered to be at about the same elevation as Culnai, but the descent is more rapid to the former. According to the custom of the country, they applied to the Alcalde for accommodations, who is obliged, according to law, to furnish travellers with a house, if the town should possess none for the use of strangers, free of expense, and to provide them with a cook; the travellers buy their own provisions, and pay for the cooking, one real for each dish.

Baños is celebrated for its mineral hot-springs, from which it derives its name; they flow from the base of a high mountain.

The town consists of about thirty houses and a church, of which the inhabitants are very proud. It is a neat village, situated in a deep ravine, by the side of a tumbling stream, bounded on both sides by mountains three thousand feet high. The mountain sides appear so precipitous, that the remark was made by one of the party, "that he could not conceive why the cattle that were feeding on their sides did not fall off."

Along the margin of the stream, carnations, pinks, stock gilly-flowers, and French marigolds are naturalised; the pinks grow in immense numbers in every crack and crevice.

The cabbages here are woody and arborescent, like the cow or tree-cabbage, the trunk and branches being quite hard and covered with bark; they have, at a distance, some resemblance to the Brugmansia suaveolens.

The thermometer stood at 50°, and the weather, in comparison with the day before, was quite mild.

The soil in this valley is good, and cultivated, in some places, with care; no fruit was observed. The largest trees were a species of Elder and a Buddlea; Calceolaria, Salvia, and Heliotropium abounded.

On the 22nd, at an early hour in the morning, they found the village deserted, and it appeared, on inquiry, that all the inhabitants page 97had gone abroad, to tend their herds. For the purpose of taking as wide a range as possible in search of plants, our gentlemen separated, some going up, while others descended; they all met with great success in their botanical researches. Dr. Pickering attempted the ascent of one of the summits; by noon he had reached a high elevation, and looking up, he espied a huge condor soaring down the valley. He stopped to observe the majestic bird as it sailed slowly along. To his surprise it took a turn around him, then a second and a third, the last time drawing so near that he began to apprehend that it meditated an attack. He describes himself as being in the worst possible condition for a fight, his strength being exhausted by climbing, and his right hand having been lamed for some days from a hurt. The nature of the ground, too, was anything but favourable for defence; but there was nothing left but to prepare for a fight, and with this intent he took a seat and drew his knife. At the instant, as if intimidated by the sight of the weapon, the bird whirled off in another direction. Dr. Pickering confessed, however humiliating the acknowledgment, that he was at the time very well satisfied with the condor's determination to let him alone.

The alcalde discovering that one of the party (Mr. Agate) was an artist, became extremely anxious that he should make a sketch of his father-in-law, an old revolutionary soldier, who resided there. As the son-in-law had been so attentive, and offered them so many civilities, among others the loan of a silver dish, spoon, and fork, he could do no less than gratify these wishes. For this purpose the old man dressed himself in his uniform. The task of sitting was almost too much for him, and he was nearly overcome with the excitement and exertion. The old man was greatly delighted with the picture, as were all those about him, except the son-in-law, who expressed great dissatisfaction that it should be without legs, it being only a half length, and offered a large price to have them put on: but time did not admit of it.

Mr. Agate's first effort was deemed so successful that Ms reputation was at once established at Baños, and shortly afterwards he was called upon by the sacristan to engage him to paint the four evangelists for the church. Price was no object provided he could do it, and they would besides consider it as a great favour.

Some of the by-standers proposed to have the constable painted, and pointed to a strapping big negro.

The houses literally contained no furniture, and the silver lent to our party was believed to constitute the only valuables in the place. The only articles besides that were seen, were some roughly-made wooden spoons, earthen dishes, and water-jugs, a few boards made into a rough table, with a stool or two, and a bedstead made of canes and plastered with clay. In no part of the United States, whether in the cabins of the Far West, or in the poorest suburbs of our eastern cities, are persons to be seen living in such a miserable manner. The country people of Peru, notwithstanding they are surrounded by everything to make them comfortable, want the knowledge and industry to use the advantages nature has given them.

page 98

On the 23d they left Baños on their return. Notwithstanding their horses had had some rest, their backs were in a shocking state, but the sores did not seem to be regarded much by the guides, who applied soap to them; they scolded and blamed the English saddles, which they called "Gallapagos turtles."

The party had determined to make another visit to Alpamarca, but the guides would not listen to it, giving as a reason that they should have their horses stolen if they went. While this discussion was going on, they met a person who informed them that the only persons now there were Indians. As their only inducement to return was the agreeable company they had left, they acceded to their guides' views, and taking another direction, arrived at Casa Cancha in the afternoon. At night, some Chilian cavalry arrived, which caused great alarm among the occupants of the huts, and the guides, for fear of losing their horses, a disaster which they said often occurred when such visitors came. The commander proved to be a gentlemanly person, and rendered our party much assistance. This party had left Pasco, the chief mining-place of Lower Peru, in the morning, and represented it as a place of considerable trade, containing many foreign residents, including English, American, French, and German. He stated that the Quichua language was spoken there, and that the Spanish was not commonly understood.

The town of Pasco is at an elevation of thirteen thousand feet, and situated in the plain of San Juan, at the head of two ravines, or gulleys, one called Rumiallana, leading to the northward, and the other Huanuco, to the eastward, where the two great veins of Colquijirca and Pariajirca unite. These are supposed to extend some seventy miles in length, and the town of Pasco is situated at their junction. The part of the ground that has been broken up, and in which ores have been found, is about half a mile in length in a north and south direction, and about one-fourth of a mile east and west. Within the whole of this extent ores have been mined of greater or less value, and the mines formerly worked and now deserted are said to amount to upwards of a thousand.

The town of Pasco is surrounded on three sides; northeast and south by hills of blue limestone; on the west the hills are of sandstone, and on the southwest of a blue slate. All the ores of the Cerro are ferruginous, and the silver nearest to the surface is contained in an ochreous iron-stone. In particular spots the silver is found mixed with lead and copper; and at variable depths in different localities the ores rest on a bed of solid iron pyrites, which in some mines yields silver, and in others not.

The plain of San Juan on the north is divided into many mining districts, to which names are given, to distinguish them more readily. The southernmost of these is called Zauricocha, and contains several mines, from which great wealth has been produced since the revolution. This is the region from which all the richest ores have been produced; and it has been always looked upon as the most important district in the Cerro. It is believed that further south, between this point and the hill of Uliachim, some good ores exist; but no attempt has yet been made to mine there.

page 99

In the district of Santa Rosa, lying west of Zauricocha, the greatest quantity of ore has been raised; it has been worked down to the level of the adit; and in several mines, where good ore has been discovered, they have descended to a lower level, drainage having been effected by hand-pumping.

On the east of the Zauricocha is the district called Arenillapata, in which few mines are now worked; the ore which is produced, although abundant in particular spots, is not rich.

Immediately within the town there are some few mines that are good, but there has never been any extensive work carried on. It is believed that profitable ore yet remains to be discovered.

Cayac, another district, lying north of Zauricocha, is worked to some profit; the upper adit from the northwest reaches it, and several mines in it have been yielding good returns.

To the north of Cayac are the Chucarillo and Zauracancha districts, the working of the mines in which had been impeded by water accumulated since the breaking out of the revolutionary war. The upper adit, leading from the gully of Rumiallana, is carried above them, and they consequently derive no benefit from it.

To the north of these last two districts lies the plain of San Juan; there are a few small veins running through some parts of it, but no important discovery has yet been made, although many mines have been opened and carried down to depths of from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty feet. The lower adit, from the gully of Rumiallana, is to run through it, and may open to the proprietors some discoveries to recompense them for their labours.

Each of these mines comprises a space of one hundred and eighty feet long, by ninety feet wide.

The silver ores are estimated by a measure called a box of ore, which contains twenty-five mule-loads of ten arrobas, or twenty-five pounds each. Each box varies in value, from six Spanish marcs to three thousand; the former being the lowest which, under the most favourable circumstances, will pay the cost of working. The poorest is of course the most abundant.

The miner who can raise ores in considerable quantities, which will give ten to twelve marcs per box, does well.

To this may be added one-fifth for silver that has not paid duties.

The first adit of importance driven into the mines was that of San Judas, which passed the wall of the vein of Zauricocha in the year 1794. By means of this adit, very rich ores were raised, especially from the king's mine. In the year 1808, the present deep adit, from which so much was expected, was begun; for covering the expenses of constructing it, the body of miners imposed a duty of one real per marc on all silver melted in the government assay-office. This adit reached, in 1830, the south-west edge of the metalliferous ground of Santa Rosa, up to which time the whole of its course had been in a hard rock. An auxiliary adit was then commenced, fifty-four feet above the level of the main one, and both of these works have been carried on until the present time. The ground above being better adapted for driving in, the upper adit is in advance of the lower, one thousand five hundred feet, and has arrived at the district of Cayac. The lower adit has reached the mines situated upon the vein of Zauricocha, without having cut a single vein or deposit of ore in its transit. There are several rich mines a little in advance of this adit, some of which have been hitherto drained by hand-pumps, and which must be shortly very much benefited by it; for, although they extend below the level of the adit, yet they will have some fifty feet of pump-lift less. It will excite some wonder that steam is not now employed in the draining of such valuable mines. It has, however, been tried; a few years previous to the revolution four steam-engines, of thirty-horse power each, were brought out from England, and three of them put up in the districts of Santa Rosa, Cayac, and Zauracancha. That of Zauricocha was not set up, but the other three were worked with some success.

A level was driven from the engine-shaft of Santa Rosa into the mines of Zauricocha, and rich ores were raised. The engine of Cayac did little more than assist that of Zauricocha, which, on account of the greater quantity of water, was barely able to do the work required of it. The expense incurred by the house of Abodia in this undertaking was upwards of six hundred thousand dollars, and at the moment when they had begun to receive a good return for their capital, the revolution broke out, and the troubles incident to it put a stop to their work, and left them with that amount of page 101loss. Subsequently, at the close of the war, the engine of Santa Rosa was again put in operation; and in parts of the years 1826 and 1827, a considerable quantity of silver was produced by means of the drainage effected by it.

Some abortive attempts were made to use the engine of Zauricocha, from 1829 to 1833; but since the latter period they have all been abandoned as unserviceable.

The establishments for grinding and amalgamating the ores are situated at from one mile to three leagues from the mines; those nearest the town are deficient in water for several months in the year. The construction of all these mills is rude, and much power is lost. A mill will grind two hundred boxes of the hardest ore, if it have a constant stream of water. The amalgamation of the ore with mercury is effected by its being trodden by horses in circular enclosures, containing from five to ten boxes. The consumption of mercury, including mechanical and chemical loss, is about one pound for each marc of silver produced.

No attempts have yet been made at roasting any of the ores.

Coal-mines are met with in various parts of the country, at the distance of from two to seven leagues; the price is one real for an arroba, but might be much reduced if the business were properly attended to.

Various plans have been formed at Lima, and in England, to purchase and work these mines, but with what success is very uncertain; the attempts have generally been supposed to have resulted in a loss. Speculation is always rife in search of these valuable ores, and prospects of great gain are invariably held out to those who engage in them; but there is much difficulty in getting the business into successful operation. The great error committed by all the English companies established in 1825 for working mines in Spanish America was in saddling themselves with great numbers of people, engaged at high salaries, and workmen at extravagant wages; the expenses attending this force swallowed up much of the funds before any work was begun. These included not only inspectors and mining-captains, but artisans, all of whom were sent from England. From a total change of life and circumstances, the mining-captains and artisans almost invariably turned out, in a short time, drunkards, and became good for nothing. In some cases miners were brought out, and these turned out still more worthless than either of the two former classes. They, indeed, did more work than the Indians, but their wages were higher, and the expenses for their importation, in addition, made them cost much more.

According to the laws of Peru, the silver produced in this department must be sent to the government assay-office, to be melted into bars, and thence to the mint at Lima to be coined. The usual price of silver, as it comes from the mine, is from seven dollars, six reals to seven dollars seven reals per marc. If remitted to Lima on account of the miner, it yields him about eight dollars one real per marc.

The duties it pays are six dollars per bar of two hundred and ten page 102marcs to the assay-master, one real per marc for the public works of the Cerro, and one real per marc to government.

The mint price is eight dollars two maravedis per marc of eleven pennyweights fine.

Within three leagues of Pasco, on an extensive plain, there stands an isolated hill of porphyry, called Raco. From this hill are cut the stones used in grinding the ores, which are from two and a half to three varas in diameter, and from eighteen to twenty-four inches in thickness. The cost for delivering them at the foot of the hill is ten dollars for every quarter of a vara in their diameter, and the expense of drawing them to the mills varies from seventy to two hundred dollars, according to the distance.

In 1840 several new attempts were about to be made in mining speculations.

The great difficulty to secure success seems to be in providing for the proper drainage, which the present adit will not accomplish alone, and great advantages might be derived from steam-power, properly employed, to free the mines of water. The owners of the mines are always desirous of inserting in the contracts that they shall not have any water to raise, as this is the most expensive part of the process: the ore is very rapidly mined after the water is drained off. The remuneration given to the proprietors of the steam-engines is one-fifth of the ore raised; this was the sum paid to the old company, and the same was stipulated to be paid to the parties who undertook the same work in 1829.

Mines are to be bought at all times, on reasonable terms; for the miners often desire to retire from business, or wish to sell for the sake of profit, or are not able to carry them on from want of capital. There is, however, one difficulty a purchaser has to contend with, for the mines are almost always held in small shares among a number of relatives, many of whom refuse to sell their small interest. This makes the mines less desirable property, as difficulties almost invariably occur with these small proprietors.

No miner who has worked with reasonable prudence, steadiness, and a sufficient capital, has failed to do well since the year 1833. The produce of the mines of the Cerro from that time has not varied much from one year to another, as will be seen by the table heretofore given. The undertakings which have been carried on upon an extensive scale, are those which have prospered most. There were many difficulties that the first mining companies had to encounter, that others need not again apprehend; the local interests are better understood, and would be more respected; a better knowledge of the people prevails, and of the modes of mining; and the people themselves have lost some of their prejudices against foreigners. Persons may now be obtained to assist in the direction, as well as to afford advice to the agents who may be entrusted with the affairs of the company; so that the prospects of success in the operations are decidedly more favourable than they were fifteen years ago. But although the actual operation of mining may be more advantageous, yet the country, in its political and commercial character, has very much deteriorated, and it is to be apprehended that but little capital page 103will be invested in it until there is a great change in its rulers, as well as in its people, and until government, the laws, and good order, become as well established as they are in Chili.

To return, after this digression, to our party. On the morning of the 24th the thermometer stood at 36° in the hut, and on the rivulet there was ice one-fourth of an inch thick. Mr. Brackenridge gathered seeds here of a curious species of Cactus, which grows plentifully all over the mountains in dense tufts; from the quantities of down or fine hair upon it, it has the appearance at a distance of a white sheep, so much so that a group of them was sometimes mistaken for a flock.

When the time came for their departure, they were glad to bid adieu to the place, and to begin their ascent to the top of the ridge. They rode two leagues to the source of the stream, which is near the summit of the ridge. At a short distance from their path was the line of perpetual snow. They found the ground hard frozen as the snow was approached, and almost bare of vegetation, only a few stunted spears of grass occurring here and there; even this appeared to be wanting in the bare spots above the snow line. The snow was but a thin covering, its surface was hardened, and its lower margin formed a perfectly unbroken horizontal line along the face of the mountain.

In the alpine lakes was a species of Myriophyllum, the same as was met with at Culnai, three thousand feet below. Dr. Pickering found an ammonite here.

They descended rapidly on the western declivity; the scenery was beautiful, and they had enough employment in collecting specimens. Two large parties were met on the route, the one of loaded mules, the other of several genteel travellers, among whom were females, accompanied by several servants well armed. In the afternoon they reached a solitary hut, at a place called Chicrine, situated at the foot of La Vinda, and kept by an old woman with one eye; she proved very much the reverse of their hostess at Casa Cancha, being very cleanly; here they passed the night comfortably.

A Frenchman, who was now passing for a native, and was on his way to Pasco with his servant, joined them at Chicrine. Being invited to partake of supper, he accepted, and did ample justice to the meal; but when he had finished, contrary to the usual politeness of his countrymen, he told them he had never eaten a worse meal in his life.

After this remark a belief was entertained that his saddle-bags contained edibles, and he was, accordingly, plied with questions, until he confessed he had a loaf of bread: this proved quite acceptable, and a triumph over their fellow-lodger, who promised them a further treat in the morning upon some fine chocolate.

On the morning of the 25th the Frenchman departed early, and forgot about his fine chocolate. They regretted to hear, shortly after their arrival at Lima, that he had been robbed and murdered on his return.

Our party set out early, and after an hour's ride reached Culnai, where the villagers were busy gathering in their potatoes. There were also several patches of Oxalis cunata, Tropæolum tuberosum, page 104and a species of Basella. The two former, when cooked, are well-tasted, and all of them are much esteemed by the natives. These patches are enclosed by low stone dikes; the plants, as they advance, are earthed up, as we do potatoes, in the early part of the season; irrigation is necessary as the soil is light and open, and consists chiefly of decayed rock and vegetable mould. Here some very interesting seeds and roots of a species of Alstrœmeria were gathered.

Culnai and Baños are about on the same level, ten thousand feet above the sea, and are the highest points of cultivation; they are both distant from the crest, by the route of the water-course, about nine miles.

Dr. Pickering having preceded the party on foot, reached Culnai after nine o'clock, when he entered a store, and was received with the utmost cordiality; a meal was at once prepared for him, consisting of eggs and potatoes, called chupe in the country, which was kindly tendered; the landlord was very inquisitive, and examined his budget, calling the attention of the by-standers to it; his charge was reasonable, and he gave the doctor a hearty salutation at parting, with the "Adios per Dios."

At dark the party was reunited at Obrajillo. Those who arrived first witnessed the slaughtering of a bullock in the square, on which occasion great numbers of condors and buzzards were collected in the air above. The latter bird is seldom seen higher up than Yaso. They stopped at the posada, which they found occupied by the company of Chilian troops whom they had met at Casa Cancha, and in consequence they were obliged to take up with a filthy hut.

At Obrajillo good crops of Indian corn, rye, and beans are raised; but none of these grow at a greater altitude.

A singular and rather amusing custom was witnessed in the morning, which does not speak much for the gallantry of the male population. A town officer was seen strutting with a spear about the public square, calling all the women out to come and sweep it. They soon made their appearance, and were not long in creating a prodigious dust. They swept the dirt up into small heaps; then taking their coarse shawls from their shoulders, they spread them upon the ground, and put the dirt they had collected into them, to be carried away.

The guides now demanded a settlement, but requested their money might be kept for them until the party reached Lima, as they certainly would be robbed if they took it themselves. This incident proves how little security there is in this country for persons of any class having anything valuable about them.

The preparations that had been made in the town were for a festival, and the guides were disinclined to start for Lima. A little bribery, however, and reminding them that one of the greatest feasts in the Catholic Church, that of Corpus Christi, was near at hand, induced them to go forward.

On their way from Obrajillo, which they left at an early hour, they met a bridal party on horseback. The bridegroom's hat and person were decorated with carnations and pinks; the bride and page 105bridesmaid carried the same flowers, which they presented to our gentlemen in passing. After a hard day's ride they reached Taso, and took up their quarters in the porch of the post-house; the landlord and postmaster's absence was now accounted for, by saying that he had gone to church, but would soon be back; he of course did not come, nor was he expected by our gentlemen. They, in consequence, fared badly, for they had nothing to eat. They found here a gentleman who had been robbed the day before by three persons in masks; they had treated him with great politeness, only proposing exchanges to his disadvantage; he had nothing else to complain of; they took his purse, watch, spurs, and a drink of his brandy. Much to their surprise, the guides, who had been so scrupulous about their money, showed no signs of alarm. A new difficulty arose with them; they had been informed that a conscription was going on, and they were afraid to proceed, lest they should lose their liberty; but the assurance, that they would be protected while with the party, satisfied them.

The frequency of murder, highway robbery, and a constant resort to the cuchillo, has not been exaggerated in the accounts of Lower Peru.

On the morning of the 27th they again set out, having prepared themselves to encounter any attack. The guides, knowing well the dangers that were to be apprehended, showed much solicitude about keeping the company together.

They reached Yanga without accident, and finding the posada occupied by a party of soldiers, and a recruiting officer, they were directed to a house with a porch, but they found it shut up. They, therefore, being assured that the owner would soon return, deposited the saddles, &c., in the porch. Soon after, a woman appeared, and on being informed of their situation, and that they had fasted for two days, she set about providing for their supper, apparently from Christian motives, for during the process she crossed herself several times. She proved to be the owner of the estate, was somewhat advanced in life, managed her own affairs, and was seemingly well adapted to encounter the roughness of the times. The heiress, a little girl (Angelita by name), came galloping on a horse, driving the cattle before her, with the air of a veteran, having command over both the animal she rode and those she drove; they were not much struck with her beauty, for her well-plastered face, and widespreading and matted hair, gave her the appearance of an elf: but she was a specimen of Peruvian nobility. Their supper was good, and they were permitted to lie on the clay floor in the house.

They paid the usual price for the accommodations. In the morning, before their departure, they purchased fifty oranges for twelve and a half cents (a real), it being stipulated, however, that they should be gathered by themselves. These served to refresh them while passing over the barren track (described in their ascent) of four leagues. They were overtaken by their Chilian friends, and the troop, when, their minds were relieved of the apprehensions of robberies.

Caballeros was reached at an early hour, and here they intended to stop on account of their horses; but their Chilian friends page 106persuaded them to pursue their journey to Lima, promising to render them assistance in case they should need it. At Caballeros they witnessed a fight between a turkey and a game-cock; strife, indeed, appears to be a constant amusement with the Peruvians, and scenes of this kind alone seem to interest the public. After a long day's journey of twelve leagues, they reached Lima at eight o'clock, very much fatigued, and happy to return to the comforts of civilised life.

The only novelty they met with during the day's ride, was a Guacho on horseback, carrying a pine board before him-a proof of the scarcity of such articles in Peru, and the value that is set upon them.

The great difference of elevation, and the variation in climate consequent thereon, would lead one to expect a greater variety in the vegetation than was actually found. Forests were nowhere met with, nor were any of the palm tribe seen; very few of the many, tropical plants were perceived even on the coast. The smaller shrubs were seldom found, except in the lower region, where their limit is circumscribed to the well-watered district. Thickets are very rare, and in the higher regions appear altogether wanting. The vegetation of Peru, on the whole, is characterised by an air of tameness, indicating but a slight change of season, and has been classed into four distinct botanical regions, which are easily distinguished.

The geological region passed over was also one of much interest, and from the observations of the gentlemen, the following information has been derived.

The geological structure, as far as their observations went, corresponds to that of North Chili, with the exception of a narrow belt of sedimentary rocks along the sea-coast, west of the granitic range, which is wanting in that country. This belt includes the island of San Lorenzo and others, as well as the coast itself, to the extent of from seven to ten miles from the sea-beach. These sedimentary rocks are argillaceous, distinctly stratified, and more or less slaty, the layers being in many places discoloured by the red oxide of iron. In other places they appeared of a black colour, as if in the vicinity of coal-beds, of which the existence was spoken of, but we did not discover any unequivocal traces of this substance. Some conspicuous examples of faults were noticed by Mr. Dana along the coast of San Lorenzo. Many minerals were also found by this gentleman; among them gypsum was of frequent occurrence, as well as some fossils; for fuller information reference is made to the Geological Report.

The hills and mountains to the eastward, joining the above sedimentary rocks, are exclusively of granite, which extends in width to the distance of forty-five geographical miles beyond Yaso. In places it has very much the appearance of a stratified rock; it is much broken, and variable in its character, so as to render it somewhat deceptive. Dr. Pickering observes, that this peculiar character or appearance is owing to the slow process of the decomposition of the rock in this dry climate, and which would, in other places, subject to the ordinary fluctuations of seasons, be covered page 107with several feet of earth. The same reasons will account for the duration of the Inca villages that cover many of the hills, and which a copious shower would entirely wash away. The granite on its eastern side was coarse-grained, presenting more of the ordinary appearance of that rock.

Immediately eastward of the granite district commence the trap rocks, consisting for the most part of porphyry. Dr. Pickering traced the line of junction for some miles, the hills on one side being of granite, on the other porphyry. The eastern limit of the trap region is supposed to be distant some twenty miles from the western. The porphyry resembles the Swedish, and that in the vicinity of Boston. Many porphyry pebbles, supposed to be of this formation, were found on the beach at Callao, having, it is to be presumed, been carried there by the action of the water-courses.

Next comes the plateau of the Cordilleras, which is formed of sedimentary rocks; this includes the silver mines, and the highest peaks, and is apparently of the same age as the coast. Much of the rock is argillaceous. At Baños an argillaceous limestone was used for burning, and quantities of gypsum, used for manure, were brought from the vicinity of Casa Cancha, some twenty miles to the north. Conglomerates prevailed over a great portion of the crest the party traversed. The included pebbles were observed to be of regular shape, smooth and polished, as if sea-washed, All the party remarked the smoothness of the pebbles in the torrents of the Cordilleras, which had a strong resemblance to those on the seabeach. From the information relative to the mines in the Cerro de Pasco, it will have been perceived that blue limestone, slate, and sandstone exist in that vicinity; and at the silver mines at Alpamarca a compact bluish rock was observed, probably the limestone; it was not, however, ascertained whether it was argillaceous or a pure limestone. Dr. Pickering remarks, that it contained numerous hard seams of opaque calcareous spar, with somewhat the lustre of "satin spar." Sandstone with small pebbles was not uncommon.

The bare spots of the higher peaks did not present the variety of colour of the Chilian Andes, but had a uniform dark slaty hue. Many incrustations were seen forming on the rocks and plants; this was found to be gypsum.

Previous to our departure, I felt desirous of having an excursion made to the ruins of Pachacamac; and having heard that the landing was easy and good, on. the inside of the island, I sent the tender Flying-Fish thither, with Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Underwood.

Pachacamac is one of the most interesting spots on this part of the coast, although it is said it will not compare with many others in various parts of the country, especially at Cusco.

They left Callao on the afternoon of the 28th of June, and were at anchor about midnight abreast of the place. At daylight the. surf was found so heavy as to render it dangerous to land in the whale-boat. By the perseverance of the officers, a raft was formed of the India-rubber mattrasses and oars; two balsas were also page 108provided. Lieutenant Underwood made the first attempt, and paddled himself into the rollers, the first one of which threw him and the balsas end over end. Shortly after, the raft was seen bottom up, the oar broken, and the fragments sticking up in various directions; but he was missing. He soon, however, made his appearance at some distance, and just as he reached the raft, a second sea broke over him, and he again disappeared, apparently much exhausted. When the third roller broke over him, he was considered for a few moments as lost; and it was no small relief to see him crawling from the water up on the beach, a short time afterwards. The raft was now pulled back to the tender by the line. In consequence of the ill success of this experiment, it was determined to make a trial in the whale-boat, which succeeded without accident. Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Underwood now proceeded to the temple. At the base of the hills, they found a few cabins of Indians, who stated that they had not chosen the proper place for landing.

The temple of Pachacamac, or castle, as it is called by the Indians, is on the summit of a hill, with three terraces; the view of it from the north is somewhat like that of the Pyramid of Cholula, given by Humboldt, except that the flanks were perpendicular.

The whole height of the hill is two hundred and fifty feet, that of the mason-work, eighty; the form is rectangular, the base being five hundred by four hundred feet. At the south-eastern extremity, the three distinct terraces are not so perceptible, and the declivity is more gentle. The walls, where great strength was required to support the earth, were built of unhewn square blocks of rock; these were cased with sun-dried brick (adobes), which were covered with a coating of clay or plaster, and stained or painted of a reddish colour.

A range of square brick pilasters projected from the uppermost wall, facing the sea, evidently belonging originally to the interior of a large apartment. These pilasters gave it the aspect of an Egyptian structure. In no other Peruvian antiquities have pilasters been seen by us. On one of the northern terraces were also remains of apartments; here the brick appeared more friable, owing to a greater proportion of sand; where they retained their shape, their dimensions were nine inches in width by six inches deep, varying in height from nine inches to two feet; and they were laid so as to break joint, though not always in a workmanlike manner.

The remains of the town occupy some undulating ground, of less elevation, a quarter of a mile to the northward. This also forms a rectangle, one-fifth by one-third of a mile in size; through the middle runs lengthwise a straight street, twenty feet in width. The walls of some of the ruins are thirty feet high, and cross each other at right angles. The buildings were apparently connected together, except where the streets intervened. The larger areas were again divided by thinner partitions, and one of them was observed to contain four rectangular pits, the plastering of which appeared quite fresh.

No traces of doors or windows towards the streets could be page 109discovered, nor indeed anywhere else. The walls were exclusively of sun-dried brick, and their direction, northeast and southwest, the same as those of the temple, which fronted the sea.

Some graves were observed to the southward of the temple, but the principal burying-ground was between the temple and town. Some of the graves were rectangular pits, lined with a dry wall of stone, and covered with layers of reeds and canes, on which the earth was filled in to the depth of a foot or more, so as to be even with the surface. The skulls brought from this place were of various characters; the majority of them presented the vertical elevation, or raised occiput, the usual characteristic of the ancient Peruvians, while others had the forehead and top of the head depressed. Eight of these were obtained, and are now deposited at Washington. The bodies were found enveloped in cloth of various qualities, and a variety in its colours still existed.

Various utensils and other articles were found, which seemed to denote the occupation of the individual: wooden needles and weaving utensils; netting made in the usual style; a sling; cordage of different kinds; a sort of coarse basket; fragments of pottery, and plated stirrups. They also found various vegetable substances; husks of Indian corn, with ears of two varieties, one with the grain slightly pointed, the other the short and black variety, which is still very commonly cultivated; cotton seeds; small bunches of wool; gourd-shells, with a square hole cut out, precisely as is done at present. These furnished evidence of the style of the articles manufactured before the arrival of the Spaniards, and of the cultivation of the vegetable products; when to these we add the native tuberous roots (among them the potato) cultivated in the mountains, and the animals found domesticated, viz: the llama, dog, and Guinea-pig, and the knowledge of at least one metal, we may judge what has since been acquired.

The embarkation of the party was attended with risk, but they all got on board the Flying-Fish without accident, and in a few hours they again reached the anchorage at Callao.

The results of my inquiries into the commerce and trade of Peru, are by no means satisfactory. The vacillating policy pursued towards the trade has been most extraordinary; and some of those engaged in commercial pursuits have frequently been enabled, through the necessities of the government, to reap many advantages. Much illicit trade was carried on, even before the revolution, under the Spanish rule. The restriction laid by its authority on commerce, kept the prices of imports high, whilst the low value of exports, left to the arbitrary demand of monopolists, prevented or diminished the means of these countries to pay for what they wanted from abroad.

From this state of things resulted the limited trade and enormous profits to a few individuals, under the colonial system. As soon as the ports were opened, an expansion took place, and the trade was entirely overdone. The markets became glutted with all kinds of foreign fabrics, and many ruinous voyages were made from ignorance of the wants of the people, and their means of payment.

page 110

For the last ten years the trade has been better understood. The demand and the means of payment have been more accurately ascertained, and a healthy and increasing commerce has been carried on, as far as the state of the country and the fluctuations, which are inseparable from a distant traffic, would permit. The commerce of Peru will not bear a comparison with that of Chili, and while the former has been diminishing, the latter has been rapidly increasing. A portion of the supplies which were formerly sent to Peru direct are now obtained in Chili, and sent to their destination in coasting vessels. This change has been brought about by the unwise policy pursued by the various Peruvian rulers, in imposing heavy transit duties. This is also in part to be attributed to the advantageous situation of Valparaiso, where purchasers are always to be found for articles for the leeward coast. There is little doubt in the minds of those who are most competent to judge, that Valparaiso must become the principal mart of foreign commerce on the west coast of America.

The foreign trade of Peru is principally carried on by the English, Americans, and French. Of late years, a good many German and Spanish vessels also have been sent thither; and occasionally some of the Mediterranean flags are seen on the coast.

It will be perceived, that both in Peru and Chili, the imports and exports are nearly the same in amount; and the question naturally arises, whence the profit on the trade? It is readily answered that, as has been already said, large quantities of goods are annually sold in Chili and Peru for Central America, the proceeds of which are shipped thence direct to Europe and the United States, and do not appear in the above note of exports.

These countries offer a large market for our domestic cottons; and if the prices can be maintained, the United States will supply the most of the coarser kinds used there. I have it from the best authority, that the consumption of these goods is now double what it was five years ago, and it is still increasing.

The article of flour, however, has greatly fallen off; previous to 1830, there were nearly thirty thousand barrels exported to Peru from the United States; in the last three years, only six thousand, and in 1841, but one thousand, ha consequence of Peru being abundantly supplied from Chili.