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Chapter VI.
Southern Cruise—Valparaiso.

At ten a.m., on the 25th of February, the Peacock, with the tender Flying-Fish, got under way, and also received parting cheers, from the Vincennes and Relief. The heavy squall from the south-west induced Captain Hudson to regain the outer anchorage of Orange Harbour, and remain there during the continuance of the gale. The next morning, the weather proving more favourable, they again got under way, and stood down the bay, with all sail set, and a fine breeze from the northward.

The heavy bank of cumuli that had been perceived in the west, by noon began to devolop itself, and by three o'clock they were under their storm-sails. This gale lasted twenty-four hours, and during its continuance the tender Flying-Fish was lost sight of.

During the gale, from her bad and defective outfits, no vessel could be more uncomfortable than the Peacock; and although every precaution was taken to make the ports tight, yet from their working, it was found impossible to keep them so.

On the 7th, they again had squalls of snow and rain, with strong gales. On the 9th, although the weather had moderated, yet the sea was very heavy, and the ship tossed and tumbled about in every direction. William Stewart, captain of the main-top, was this day knocked off the yard, and in his fall struck the main rigging, but he canted, and fell overboard, when he was seen to lie quite insensible, feet up, supported by his exploring boots, which were supposed to have occasioned his fall. A bow-line was thrown over them, and he page 56was dextrously drawn on board again. The ship had but little headway, and it would have been impossible to lower a boat, on account of the roughness of the sea; his rescue was, therefore, almost miraculous. Every care was taken of him, but it was soon found that the violence of the concussion had been so great that his lungs had become gorged with blood, and little hopes were entertamed of his recovery After lingering to the 11th, he died. This day they made the first iceberg.

They encountered, during the 17th and part of the 18th, the heaviest gale and sea they had experienced since leaving the United States. The ship was completely coated with ice, even to the gundeck. Every spray thrown over her froze, and her bows and deck were fairly packed with it. The crew suffered much from the gundeck being constantly wet; and it being now covered with ice, the ship was damp throughout.

On the 18th the gale continued, with a heavy sea, the winds prevailing more from the south and south south-east There were many birds about the ship; among them a sheath-bill. Several icebergs were in sight, and at night they had a beautiful display of the aurora australis, extending from south south-west to east. The rays were of many colours, radiating towards the zenith, and reaching an altitude of 30°. Several brilliant meteors were also observed.

On the 19th they had another display of the aurora, and it exhibited a peculiar effect. In the southern quarter there was an appearance of a dense cloud, resembling a shadow cast upon the sky, and forming an arch about 10° in altitude. Above this were seen coruscations of light, rendering all objects around the ship visible. From behind this cloud diverging rays frequently shot up to an altitude of from 25° to 45°. These appearances continued until day dawned. The night was remarkably fine, and many shooting stars were observed. During the afternoon of this day a fog-bank was perceived in the south-western quarter, and they were, a short time afterwards, completely enveloped in a fog so dense and thick, that they could not see twice the length of the ship.

During the whole of the 21st they could not venture to run, in consequence of the dense fog.

On the 23rd it partly cleared, and the fog having been succeeded by a snow-storm, the wind hauled to the west, with a heavy bank of clouds in that quarter. On the 24th, the wind hauling to the northward and westward, brought snow and thick weather, with some heavy squalls. Many icebergs were met with, which were, fortunately, avoided. Some of the icebergs were two hundred feet above the surface of the water, and of a pinnacle shape.

On the 25th they obtained a meridian observation, the first for the last six days, and found themselves in the latitude of 68° S, longitude 97° 58' W. Here, in the evening, to their great joy, they fell in with the tender Flying-Fish. On her near approach, all hands were turned up, and gave her three hearty cheers. Lieutenant Walker reported to Captain Hudson that he had visited all the page 57appointed rendezvous, in hopes of falling in with the Peacock. On the 17th, they turned towards the south for Cook's Ne Plus Ultra, and continued their way to the southward. The weather was at times very thick, the ice-islands became numerous, and they occasionally passed a little floating ice. On the 18th the ice became abundant, and floated in large masses around them. At four a m. the water was much discoloured, and some of the ice also having the appearance of being but lately detached from the land. They obtained a cast of the lead, but found no bottom at one hundred fathoms. At eight o'clock the fog lifted, and discovered, to the amazement of all, a wall of ice, from fifteen to twenty feet high, extending east and west as far as the eye could reach, and spreading out into a vast and seemingly boundless field to the south. Their latitude at this time was about 67° 30' S, longitude 105° W. The weather becoming thick, they stood to the northward, and soon ran into blue water.

On the 21st, at seven a.m, they saw the ice extending in broken ranges from south by east to north-east, and the sea extending round to the westward. At eight o'clock the water was again much discoloured, and many large icebergs were around. At meridian their latitude was 68° 41' S, longitude 103° 34' W., when they again stood to the southward, running among the ice-islands with a fair wind, flattering themselves that they should before noon of the next day get further south than Cook had. In this, however, they were disappointed; for the weather became thick, and they were, in consequence, obliged to heave-to.

On the morning of the 23rd of March their latitude was 70° S., longitude 100° 16' W. The weather proved clear. In the afternoon they again stood to the southward and eastward for three hours, when they observed the appearance of land, and discovered large masses of ice and numerous icebergs. At midnight the southern horizon was beautifully illuminated with the aurora australis.

On the 24th they had a heavy fall of snow; passed many icebergs, and large quantities of floating ice; got suddenly into large fields of packed and broken ice, extending as far as the eye could reach, in all directions, which, with the accumulation of snow, appeared to be rapidly becoming solid. They lost no time in forcing their way out. All on board were of opinion that, within a short time after they cleared it, it became a firm field of ice. The latitude observed was 69° 6' S., longitude 96° 50' W.

Having on two occasions narrowly escaped being closed in by the ice, they had determined to return, and were making their way to the north, when they fell in with the Peacock.

The condition of the Peacock for a winter's campaign was miserable, and on board the Flying-Fish there was no protection in the event of being frozen in. The positive nature of his instructions, combined with the report from the Flying-Fish, convinced Captain Hudson of the necessity of turning the vessels' heads towards a more temperate climate. On holding a council with his officers, he found them all of the opinion that the season for active operations in these page 58latitudes had passed, and that it was advisable for the vessels to proceed without delay to the north.

The vessels, accordingly, steered to the northward.

The weather, during the cruise south, was exceedingly unfavourable; for, with few exceptions, during their stay in the antarctic circle, they were enveloped in dense fogs, or found only occasional relief from them in falls of snow. The crew during the whole time enjoyed an unusual degree of health, which is not a little surprising; for, since leaving Orange Harbour, the state of the ship had been such as to promote disease. The precautions and endeavours to keep the men dry entirely failed, from the condition of the ship.

On the night of the 29th, a new danger beset them, that of being consumed by fire! At midnight they were aroused by the smell of burning and smoke, issuing from the main hold. The usual orders were given relative to the magazine The drum beat to quarters On opening the main hatch, smoke issued out in volumes, and fine was discovered under it, proceeding from a bag in full blaze. This was soon passed on deck, and the fire extinguished. It was fortunately discovered in time, and was found to proceed from a quantity of coffee, which had been put below in the bag, after it had been burnt or roasted, the previous afternoon.

On the 1st of April, in latitude 60° 12' S, longitude 84° 20' W., Captain Hudson dispatched the tender to Orange Harbour, with his reports to me, and continued his route to Valparaiso. The last icebergs seen were in latitude 62° 30' S., longitude 87° 41' W.; the temperature of air, 33°; of water, 35°.

On the 21st the Peacock arrived in Valparaiso, where to their surprise they found our store-ship, the Belief, which had arrived some days previous.

The Relief left Orange Harbour on the 26th of February, for the purpose of visiting various places in the Straits of Magellan, to afford an opportunity of making investigations, and opening a large field for our naturalists during the fifty or sixty days they were to be detained on the coast. Most of the scientific gentlemen were accordingly transferred to her; and she was ordered to enter the Brecknock Passage, and thence into Cockburn Sound.

Various difficulties prevented her reaching the entrance to the Brecknock Passage, principally that of keeping too far off the coast on long tracks to the southward.

On the 17th of March, after being at sea twenty days, they approached the coast, and a gale ensuing from the southwest, Lieutenant-Commandant Long, on the following day, determined to run in and anchor under Noir Island. The wind was blowing a gale from the southwest, with thick weather and hail-squalls. Noir Island was discovered under the 1ee, judged to be about twelve miles distant, when they steered for it. It becoming thick, they did not discover the Tower Bocks until they were almost up with, and just had time to clear them. These rocks presented a magnificent and fearful sight, the sea breaking completely over them. Three anchors were prepared. They rounded the southeast point of the island, page 59and stood in for the bay. At about five o'clock they anchored in seventeen fathoms, and the anchor took effect.

On the morning of the 19th, the highest point of Noir Island was seen, capped with snow; the wind had abated somewhat, but not enough to permit of their landing in a snug little cove abreast of them. In the afternoon the wind again increased, and another anchor was let go. There was much sea, and the ship rode very uneasy at her anchor. The sea broke tremendously on the reef astern, shooting up in columns, such as are seen to appear under the effeet of mirage. After it became dark, the wind shifted to the southward and eastward, which brought the sea from that quarter, and exposed them more both to it and the wind The anchors shortly after began to drag, and the vessel was urged in the direction of a rock. Fortunately the wind abated towards morning, and came from its old quarter, southwest, more off the land, but still blew with violence.

On the morning of the 20th, one of their chain cables was found to have parted. The chain was hove in with some difficulty, and another anchor let go. The weather towards evening became again threatening, and produced no little anxiety. At nightfall it shifted in the same way it had done the previous evening, blowing again heavily. The ship was felt to be constantly dragging, accompanied by that grating kind of noise of the chain moving on the bottom, which is anything but agreeable. The rock astern, together with the reef toward which the wind and sea were both setting the ship, rendered their situation truly appalling. The prospect of any one surviving, in case they had struck, was extremely slight. The night was dark and stormy, and the dragging continued occasionally until midnight, when they found they had passed and escaped the rock, and were near the reef. They now shipped a heavy sea over the bows, the shock of which was so great that it parted their cables, and their drifting became rapid. From the set of the current, they just cleared the reef. When the point of the island bore east of south, they slipped their cables, wore round, and made sail; and on the 21st, at daybreak, they found themselves off Cape Gloucester.

The conduct of Lieutenant-Commandant Long, his officers and men, during the perilous situation in which the Relief was placed, deserves great praise; they did their duty in every respect. On the l3th of April, the Relief arrived off Valparaiso without anchors. Commandant Locke, of her Britannic Majesty's ship Fly, in the most prompt and handsome manner, dispatched a boat with an anchor to the assistance of the Relief.

The Flying-Fish arrived at Orange Harbour on the 11th April. The duties of the observatory having been completed, the instruments were embarked, and everything made ready for our departure. During the Vincennes' stay here of sixty days, we found the weather exceedingly changeable.

There were but few days on which rain did not fall during some portion of the twenty-four hours, but seldom heavily; lightning and thunder occurred once during the time. The climate may be called page 60extremely boisterous, although from the fact of the natives heing without any kind of covering, one would suppose it cannot be very variable as to temperature, throughout the year. The want of clothing is not, however, peculiar to all the natives; those seen an Good Success Bay were well covered with guanacoe skins, and are a finer-looking and taller race of men.

The wolf is the only land animal that is a native of the soil. The natives have many dogs.

Of land birds, we found the upland goose, a most beautiful eagle, a few plover, and some small birds. There are great quantities of wild fowl, geese, ducks, and the usual sea-birds, to be seen at all times in the harbour, where they find abundance of food among the kelp.

A number of burnt human bones were dug up in a cave; but whether the natives burn their dead or not, we had no opportunity of ascertaining.

On the 17th April, the time having expired for the return of the Relief, I concluded to leave Orange Harbour with the Vincennes and Porpoise. Believing the Relief had been detained, the Flying Fish and Sea-Gull tenders were both left to await her arrival for ten days, to take the scientific gentlemen on board, and join us at Valparaiso, in order to prevent detention by the slow sailing of that ship.

On the 20th we took our final leave of these waters, and on the 21st lost sight of land, passing to the northward of the island of Diego Ramieres.

On the 23rd, during a strong gale, we parted company with the Porpoise.

Immediately after leaving Orange Harbour, dysentery made its appearance on board the Vincennes, and ran through the whole ship's company. Some of the officers were also affected It proved of a very mild type, and readily yielded to medical treatment Upon our arrival at Valparaiso, it had entirely disappeared. The medical officers were unable to account for it, the health of the ship's company having been very good during our stay at Orange Harbour.

On the 15th we made the land off Valparaiso, and before noon anchored in the bay, where we found the Peacock, and received tidings that the Relief had sailed with the store-ship Mariposa for Callao. The Porpoise arrived on the 16th, and the Flying-Fish reached Valparaiso on the 19th, after having experienced extremely boisterous weather.

On our arrival at Valparaiso, the officers and scientific gentlemen were assigned to such duties as were deemed most desirable to insure the results in the different departments.

The authorities, whom I at once called upon, in company with our consul, were exceedingly kind and attentive, and gave every offer of assistance.

The officers of the customs readily gave permission to land all the instruments.

As I was desirous of avoiding all unnecessary delay, not only on page 61account of the loss of time we had already met with, but because the season was approaching when the northers might be expected, every exertion was made to supply our wants, and through the kindness and attention of our consul, G. G Hobson, Esq., this was effected in the shortest possible time.

Valparaiso has greatly increased in size and consequence within the last few years, and has become the great sea-port of Chili, and, indeed, of the whole coast. Although it labours under many disadvantages as respects its harbour, which is inferior to others on the coast, yet it is the nearest and most convenient port to Santiago, the capital.

I have had some opportunity of knowing Valparaiso, and contrasting its present state with that of 1821 and 1822. It was then a mere village, composed, with but few exceptions, of straggling ranchos. It has now the appearance of a thickly settled town, with a population of thirty thousand, five times the number it had then. It is divided into two parts, one of which is known by the name of the Port, and is the old town; the other by that of the Almendral, occupying a level plain to the east. Its location is by no means such as to show it to advantage. The principal buildings are the customhouse, two churches, and the houses occupying the main street. Most of the buildings are of one story, and are built of adobes or sun-dried brick. The walls of the buildings are from four to six feet thick. The reason for this mode of building is the frequent occurrence of earthquakes. The streets are well paved. The plaza has not much to recommend it. The government-house is an inferior building. Great improvements are now making, and many buildings on the eve of erection.

They are about bringing water from one of the neighbouring springs on the hill, which, if the supply is sufficient, will give the town many comforts. On the hills are many neat and comfortable dwellings, surrounded by flower-gardens. These are chiefly occupied by the families of American and English merchants. This is the most pleasant part of the town, and enjoys a beautiful view of the harbour. The ascent to it is made quite easy by a well-constructed road through a ravine. The height is two hundred and ten feet above the sea The east end of the Almendral is also occupied by the wealthy citizens. The lower classes live in the ravines. Many of their habitations are scarcely sufficient to keep them dry during the rainy season. They are built of reeds, plastered with mud, and thatched with straw. They seldom contain more than one apartment.

The well-known hills to the south of the port, called the "Main and Fore Top," are the principal localities of the grog-shops and their customers. These two hills, and the gorge (quebrada) between them, seem to contain a large proportion of the worthless population of both sexes. The females, remarkable for their black eyes and red "bayettas," are an annoyance to the authorities, the trade, and commanders of vessels, and equally so to the poor sailors, who seldom leave this port without empty pockets and injured health.

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It was difficult to realise the improvement and change that had taken place in the habits of the people, and the advancement in civil order and civilisation. On my former visit, there was no sort of order, regulation, or good government. Robbery, murder, and vices of all kinds were openly committed. The exercise of arbitrary military power alone existed. Not only with the natives, but among foreigners, gambling and knavery of the lowest order, and all the demoralising effects that accompany them, prevailed.

I myself saw, on my former visit, several dead bodies exposed in the public squares, victims of the cuchillo. This was the result of a night's debauch, and the fracas attendant upon it. No other punishment awaited the culprits than the remorse of their own conscience.

Now, Valparaiso, and indeed all Chili, shows a great change for the better; order reigns throughout; crime is rarely heard of, and never goes unpunished; good order and decorum prevail outwardly everywhere; that engine of good government, an active and efficient police, has been established. It is admirably regulated, and brought fully into action, not only for the protection of life and property, but in adding to the comforts of the inhabitants.

The predominant trait of the Chilians, when compared with other South Americans, is their love of country and attachment to their homes. This feeling is common to all classes. There is also a great feeling of independence and equality. Public opinion has weight in directing the affairs of state. The people are fond of agricultural pursuits, and the lower orders much better disposed towards foreigners than in other parts. Schools and colleges have been established, and a desire to extend the benefits of education throughout the population is evinced.

The credit of forming the police is given to Portales. It consists of two distinct bodies, one mounted, the other on foot. The watchmen carry swords only. The former patrol the streets on horseback, while the latter take their particular walk round a square or two, for which they are responsible. A message may be sent through them to the furthest end of the city, and an answer returned, in fifteen minutes. They carry a loud and shrill whistle, the sounds of which are varied as occasion requires, and by it a concentration of force can be effected in a few moments.

When they cry the hour, they all sing the same tune, but the pitch is ranged in accordance with the scope of the voice. Their manner of singing the hour, Viva Chili, Viva Chili, las dias anda y serena, is pleasing.

In the morning they add to it a prayer, as Ave Maria purissima las cinco y media.

The police adds greatly to the comfort as well as to the safety of the inhabitants. To give an instance of its effects, apothecaries are chosen weekly to keep their shops open all night, and in case of sickness or requiring any aid, one has only to call for the vigilante, who takes the recipe and passes it to the next, and so on to the shop, where it is obtained, and returned as soon as possible, without any trouble whatever. They have their particular rounds, and each page 63door is obliged to have a padlock. If any door is found without it, they put a lock on, for which the owner has to pay a fine of four dollars to the city to have it removed; half is the reward of the vigilante.

The shops are well filled with almost all articles of English, American, and French manufacture. The markets are well supplied. There are no market-gardens in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, and nearly all the vegetables are brought from the valley of Quillota, about sixteen miles distant, on the backs of mules, in panniers. The mode of bringing grass or clover to market is peculiar; it sometimes almost covers both horse and rider.

There are but few amusements. Among them is a theatre, which is small and inconvenient, and the chingano, both of which are usually open on a Sunday evening.

The Chilians are extremely fond of the dance called the samacueca. This may be called the national dance, and is in vogue among the common people. It is usually performed at the chingano, which is a kind of amphitheatre, surrounded by apartments, where refreshments, including strong drinks, are sold, and is generally well filled by both sexes. The dance is performed on a kind of stage, under an open shed. The music is a mixture of Spanish and Indian, and is performed altogether by females, on an old-fashioned, long and narrow harp, one end of which rests on the lap of the performer, and the other on the stage, ten feet off. A second girl is seen merrily beating time on the sounding-board of the instrument. On the right is another, strumming the common chords on a wire-string guitar or kitty, making, at every vibration of the right hand, a full sweep across all the strings, and varying the chords. In addition to this, they sang a national love-song, in Spanish, at the top of their voices, one singing a kind of alto: the whole producing a very strange combination of sounds.

The dance is performed by a young man and woman; the former is gaudily decked in a light scarlet jacket, embroidered with gold lace, white pantaloons, red sash, and pumps, with a tiny red cap; whilst that of his partner consists of a gaudy painted muslm dress, quite short, and stiffly starched, not a little aided by an ample pair of hips; thrown over all is a rich-coloured French shawl; these, with well-fitted silk stockings, complete her attire. These last are in truth characteristic of the Chilian women of all classes, and they take no pains to conceal them. One not unfrequently sees the extravagance of silk stockings in the washerwomen at their tubs, and even with their hands in the suds. The dress in general fits neatly, and nature is not distorted by tight lacing, or the wearing of corsets. Nothing is worn on the head, and the. hair, parted and equally divided from the forehead back to the neck, hangs down in two long plaits on each shoulder to the waist.

The style of dancing is somewhat like a fandango. The couple begin by facing each other and flirting handkerchiefs over each others heads, then approaching, slowly retreating again, then quickly shooting off to one side, passing under arms without touching, with great agility, rattling and beating time with page 64castanets. Their movements are quite graceful, those of their feet pretty, and withal quite amorous; the gestures may be readily understood, not only by the native audience, but by foreigners. I cannot say much for its moral tendency.

The higher classes of females have the name of being virtuous and estimable in their domestic circle, but we cannot say that they are beautiful. They dress their hair with great care and taste. Their feet are small, and they have a graceful carriage.

The French fashion of dress prevails, and they are just beginning to wear bonnets. The advancement of civilisation is rapid; the imitation of foreign habits and customs will soon predominate over those of Chili; and, what is of more consequence, some attention is being paid to their education.

A rather singular occurrence took place at a review of the militia on the Plaiancia, one Sunday, by the president, who was attended by his daughter, and a number of the most respectable ladies of the place. They marched down the line, and afterwards danced with the officers on the field, in the presence of the soldiers. All the South Americans are inveterate dancers, the Chilians taking the lead. The taste for music is general; but, although they have a number of national airs, few have been printed All the printed. music in common use is foreign, as are the instruments. Pianos are to be seen in almost every house.

The natives have a fondness for flowers, although they are but little cultivated. Pew gardens are yet to be seen of any consequence. They require constant irrigation the most of the year, which may account for this want. There are two in the Almendral, surrounded by high walls, and kept in tolerable order; and great attention is paid in these to foreign plants.

We happened to be at Valparaiso during the president's visit, which, connected with the late victory and successes in Peru, caused much rejoicing; every possible attention was shown to the chie magistrate, by both natives and foreigners. Among others, he was taken on an aquatic excursion, on board of a small brigantine, decked out with the flags of all nations, and was accompanied by the civil authorities of Valparaiso, the English admiral, and others. On passing the men-of-war, he received the customary salutes from all but ourselves. We could not fire the guns on account of our chronometers. On his passing, however, the rigging was manned, and we gave him several hearty cheers, which, it was said, much delighted the president and his suite, from the novelty of the compliment.

Three balls were given during the stay of the squadron here, in consequence of the visit of the president, (General Prieto;) one in honour of the recent victory ot Yungai over the Peruvians; the others by the citizens and foreigners to his excellency. As the former was an extraordinary occasion, a description of it will give some insight into the manner in which they conduct these affairs in Chili. All three were managed in a manner that would have been highly creditable in any part of the world.

The place selected for the great ball was between the walls of two page 65large unfinished storehouses, a space one hundred and fifty feet long by ninety wide, over which temporary arches were built, the whole covered with an awning lined with blue, and studded with stars, from which were suspended some twenty very handsome chandeliers. The whole was carpeted, and the various pillars which supported the roof were decorated with emblems of the victory and nation. At the end opposite to the entrance was a transparency of General Bulnes, the hero of Yungai, surrounded with scrolls of his deeds. Along the corridors which the piazzas formed, ranges of sofas and Seats were placed; on the walls were hung rich mirrors and paintings; the former rested on massive pier-tables, in which hundreds of lights were seen reflected, whilst the graceful festoons of the national flags and pennants formed into draperies, intermixed with wreaths of flowers and evergreens in endless variety, encircling emblematic designs of the nation's glory, produced an effect not easily surpassed. The reception-room of the president was hung with scarlet tapestry, decorated with paintings, mirrors, and piertables, and brilliantly lighted with chandeliers, &c.

There were likewise card-rooms, smoking-rooms, supper-rooms, and a dressing-room for the ladies, in which were a number of hairdressers and mantua-makers constantly in attendance. The whole was well got up, unique, and truly splendid; all Valparaiso had sent furniture of every kind, and even the churches had contributed to assist in the great gala fête in commemoration of the national victory. The company consisted of about five hundred, one-third of whom were females. Many costly uniforms, of various patterns, and not a little fanciful, added to the brilliancy of the scene.

About ten o'clock, the ball was opened by the president, Don Joaquim Prieto, in person, a novel sight to us, He was dressed in a richly embroidered coat, gold epaulettes, and field-marshal's sash. He danced a minuet with a lady of Valparaiso, whom he had especially selected, after which the dancing became general, consisting of quadrilles, country-dances, and waltzes, besides which they had the lascivious dances of samacueca, cachuca, and lordean. These partake somewhat of the bolero and fandango, or Spanish and African dance.

By way of interlude, marches and national airs were played and sung. The ball did not break up until eight o'clock next morning, at which hour the president and his daughter were escorted home by a procession of the dancers, with the music playing national airs, forming rather a grotesque show to the by-standers, from the interchange of hats and outer garments that had taken place.

On reaching General Prieto's quarters, they sang a national hymn, after which many were invited in, were they again continued dancing until noon.

I should not omit to mention that after midnight the ladies underwent a second operation of the toilet.

The whole equalled, if it did not surpass, any of our own fêtes in tne United States; indeed, all who attended were much surprised, having little idea that Valparaiso could have made so brilliant and tasteful a display of beauty and magnificence.