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Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition: During the Years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842. Volume One.

Chapter XX. — New Zealand

page 294

Chapter XX.
New Zealand.

Departure from Sydney—Passage to New Zealand—Arrival at the Bay of Islands—Bay of Islands—Rivers which fall into it—Face of the Country—Hot Spring of Taiaimi—Missionary Establishment at Pahia—Kororarika—English Police Magistrate and Acting Governor—Treaty of Cession to England—Conduct of the American Consul—Installation of the Lieutenant—Governor—Opinion of the Chiefs in relation to the Treaty—Foreign Residents—High Price of Land—Taboo—Pas, or Fortified Towns—Dwellings—Tomb—Dress of the Natives—Their Food—Their Arms and Ornaments—King Pomare—Mauparawa—Charley Pomare—Pomare's Wars—Ceremony of his Return—His Meanness—Population of New Zealand—Visit to Wangarara—Politeness of Ko—Towatowa—Wangarara Bay—Character of the New Zealanders—Their Personal Appearance—Tradition in relation to their Origin—Tattooed Heads—Cannibalism—Condition and prospects of the Natives—Native Dances—Music—Chatham Island—Climate of New Zealand—Diseases—Soil—Cultivation—Vegetable Productions—Timber—Canoes—Quadrupeds—Birds—Commerce.

Having replenished our stores of provisions, we took, with much regret, a final leave of our friends at Sydney. The Vincennes weighed anchor, and at 3 p.m. on the 19th March we discharged our pilot, and bade adieu to these hospitable shores. The Peacock, not having completed her repairs, was left at Sydney for a few days, with orders to follow us to Tongataboo.

At daylight on the 30th, we made Cape Brett, and after groping our way through the dark, into the Bay of Islands, anchored at 10 p.m. in the Kawa-Kawa river, opposite the residence of Mr. Clendon, the American consul. Here I had the satisfaction to find the Porpoise and Flying-Fish, and received the reports of their cruises; they were all well on board. The former vessel had arrived a few days, and the latter about three weeks before us. We were also gratified with the receipt of letters from the United States. Here also we were joined by all the scientific gentlemen.

From the splendid panorama of Mr. Burford, I had pictured the Bay of Islands to myself as a place of surpassing beauty, and I could not but feel gratified at the idea of paying it a visit: it did not, however, realise my expectations. It might, with more propriety, be called the Bay of Inlets. The best idea that can be given of its geographical features is, to liken it to an open hand with the fingers spread apart. The land is much indented with bays, or arms of the sea, running up among hills, which are nearly insulated. The distance between the two capes (Brett and Point Pocock) is ten miles, and there are several secondary bays facing page 295this opening. Four rivers flow into them, the Kawa-Kawa, Kiri-Kiri, Loytangi, and Waicaddie, into which the tide flows a few miles, after which they become small streamlets, varied by some waterfalls. There are many minor indentations, which render it impossible to move any distance without a boat; and it is often necessary to make a turn of five or six miles around an inlet or marsh in going to a place, which might be reached in one-tenth of the distance by water.

The land has the appearance of barren hills without accompanying valleys, and there is so little level ground that terraces are cut in the hills to build the cottages on. The whole view is anything but picturesque, and there is little to meet the eye except bare hills and extensive sheets of water. Some fine views are, however, to be met with from the elevated ridges, which afford occasional glimpses of the bay, with its islets.

Many of our gentlemen were struck with the resemblance of this land to that of Terra del Fuego. Black islets and rocks, worn into various shapes, are found, as in that country, at all the points in the bay through which a boat can pass. These rocks are of a basaltic character. About the Bay of Islands the rock is compact and argillaceous, showing little or no stratification, and is for the most part covered with a layer of stiff clay, two or three feet thick, the result of its decomposition. The hills about the Bay of Islands are generally from three to five hundred feet high, but some of those at the head of the bay reach one thousand feet. The district about the bay and the northern portion of the island may be styled volcanic; for, in addition to rocks of undoubted volcanic origin, all the others had in a greater or less degree undergone the action of fire.

The embedded minerals in the rock about the bay are quartz, iron, and iron pyrites.

The hot spring of Taiaimi was visited, but it is described as rather an emission of gas than of water. It is situated in a small basin, and forms a lake of three or four acres in extent; near the edge of this lake gas is constantly bubbling up, usually through the water, to which it gives the appearance of boiling; and gas issues also from the surrounding land for an extent of several acres. The water was found to be warm, but did not scald. The neighbouring ground was destitute of vegetation, and appeared as if the surface of the earth had been artificially removed. Sulphur was abundant, and there was also a slight incrustation of alum. The water was strongly impregnated with iron, was much discoloured, and in smell and taste not unlike pyroligneous acid. The natives attribute medical virtues to these waters.

Pahia is the principal missionary establishment of the Episcopal Church. It is pleasantly situated on the bay, opposite Kororarika, and is the residence of all those attached to the mission, and their printing-presses are there. It is too much exposed to afford a good harbour for shipping, but as it is the most favourable site for communication with the interior, the advantages and disadvantages of its position are nearly balanced.

Kororarika is still the principal settlement, and contains about page 296twenty houses, scarcely deserving the name, and many shanties, besides tents. It is chiefly inhabited by the lowest order of vagabonds, mostly runaway sailors and convicts, and is appropriately named "Blackguard Beach,"

The appointment of the police magistrates was one of the first acts under the new order of things. Mr. Robert Shortland, the first police magistrate, after the illness of Governor Hobson, styled himself acting governor, and a more ridiculously pompous functionary could scarcely be imagined. He paid a visit to the vessel in which some of our gentlemen had made the passage from Sydney, and demanded the reason why the mail-bag had not been sent to the new government postmaster. The master of the vessel replied, that he thought it his duty, not having been informed of any change, to deliver them to the old postmaster, until he should be directed otherwise by Governor Hobson. This pompous functionary, in an improper tone as well as manner, exclaimed, "I wish you to know that I am governor now." In the words of one of the gentlemen, "had he been the viceroy of the Indies, he could not have made his inquisitions in tones of loftier supremacy."

Some of our gentlemen arrived at the Bay of Islands in time to witness the ceremonies of making the treaty with the New Zealand chiefs. I mentioned, whilst at Sydney, the arrival of H. B. M. frigate the Druid, with Captain Hobson on board, as consul to New Zealand, It was well understood that he had the appointment of lieutenant-governor in his pocket, in the event of certain arrangements being made. His arrival at the Bay of Islands, in H. B. M. ship Herald, seemed to take the inhabitants, foreigners as well as natives, by surprise. A few days afterwards, on the 5th February, a meeting was called at the dwelling of Mr. Busby. The meeting-was large, and numerously attended by the chiefs. Many arguments and endeavours were used to induce them to sign a treaty with Great Britain, all of which were but little understood, even by those who were present, and had some clue to the object in view. Great excitement prevailed, and after five hours' ineffectual persuasion, the meeting broke up, every chief refusing to sign or favour Captain Hobson's proposition, which was in reality nothing more or less than a cession of their lands, authority, and persons, to Queen Victoria. Among the arguments made use of, he stated that unless they signed the treaty he could do nothing more than act as consul. Nothing having been effected, the meeting was broken up, and the following Friday appointed for a second. Tobacco and pipes were given them before they departed, which restored their good humour, and they went away shouting.

In the mean time Mr. J. R. Clendon, an Englishman acting as American consul, the missionaries, and many interested persons residing there, or about becoming settlers, were made to understand that their interests would be much promoted if they should forward the views of the British government. Every exertion was now made by these parties to remove the scruples of the chiefs, and thus to form a party strong enough to overreach the rest of the natives, and overcome their objections. About forty chiefs, principally minor page 297ones-a very small representation of the proprietors of the soil—were induced to sign the treaty. The influence of Mr. Clendon, arising from his position as the representative of the United States, was among the most efficient means by which the assent, even of this small party, was obtained. The natives placed much confidence in him, believing him to be disinterested. He became a witness to the document, and informed me, when speaking of the transaction, that it was entirely through his influence that the treaty was signed.

The lieutenant-governor installed himself, confirmed the appointments of a host of government officers, and the whole machinery, that had been long prepared, was put in motion. Proclamations were issued by him, extending his authority over all the English residents on both islands! and it was considered by the Englishmen as good as law, though far otherwise by the other foreigners. After this, the lieutenant-governor proceeded to the district of the Thames River, or Hauaki, in the Herald, for the purpose of procuring a similar cession, of the country; but before this could be consummated, he was attacked with paralysis, and the Herald was obliged to depart for Sydney.

So far as the chiefs understand the agreement, they think they have not alienated any of their rights to the soil, but consider it only as a personal grant, not transferable. In the interview I had with Pomare, I was desirous of knowing the impression it had made upon him. I found he did not conceive that he had given up his authority, or any portion of his land permanently; the latter he said he could not do, as it belonged to all his tribe. Whenever this subject was brought up, after answering questions, he invariably spoke of the figure he would make in the scarlet uniform and epaulettes that Queen Victoria was to send him, and "then what a handsome man he would be! "

Although the land about the Bay of Islands is much cut up by indentations, yet from this circumstance it affords many pretty views, which have, in some respects, an appearance of an advance towards civilisation, that one hardly expects to find within the scope of the residences of these savages.

The prospects of these islanders are, in my opinion, anything but pleasing, and the change by no means calculated to insure their happiness, or promote their welfare. It seems to have been brought about by a rage for speculation, and a desire to take possession of this country, in order to secure it from the French. The idea that it was necessary to extend the laws of New South. Wales over the island, in order to protect the natives, and break up the nest of rogues that had taken refuge there, is far from being true. No such necessity existed, for there was no difficulty in having any one apprehended by sending officers for the purpose, or offering a reward.

The New Zealand Land Company have been the secret spring of this transaction, and under the shelter of certain influential names, the managers have contrived to blind the English public. It will scarcely be believed that the New Zealand Land Company had disposed of several thousand shares of land before they purchased page 298an acre. Some three or four thousand emigrants, who had purchased allotments, left England on their way to take possession of them, just after the agent. Upon their arrival they could obtain no satisfactory information respecting their allotments, and were left in a destitute condition, to spend the few earnings they had left, and to endure all the privations to which people landed in a new country are subject.

Even of those allotments that have been given out, many are not susceptible of cultivation. It is scarcely to be believed that the high names which stand at the head of this company could have been informed of the true state of things; yet it is generally supposed in this part of the world, that it is by their exertions and influence that the British government has been induced to take forcible possession of the territory of an independent state, which New Zealand undoubtedly was. However this may be, the speculators have succeeded in their object, and the country will now be retained by England, even if a military power should be necessary. Should the New Zealanders resist-and they are a warlike race, yet acting against European discipline—they will be readily overcome. They are not unlike grown children, and may be more easily ruled by kindness, and by satisfying the wants of the chiefs, than by force. The population will soon disappear before the whites, for the causes that have operated elsewhere are to be seen in action here, where the savage is already sinking imperceptibly before the advances of civilisation. While philanthropy, real or pretended, is ransacking the globe to find subjects for its benevolence, it seems a little surprising that scarcely a voice has been raised in Parliament against this act of usurpation.

Foreign residents have established themselves in many places, and on all the inlets or arms of the Bay of Islands their cottages are to be seen, occupying the points and coves.

On the north, the British resident, Mr. Busby, has built a large and commodious cottage, and commenced laying out his grounds in town lots for the future city of Victoria, of which there was a public sale previous to our arrival. All the lots were, I believe, purchased on speculation, for after seeing the locality, one must be convinced that it offers no advantages for more than a village, if, indeed, for that. More to the westward is situated Pahia, the mission establishment. For commercial purposes, the south, or Kororarika shore, offers the greatest advantages, having the deepest water, and being the most sheltered from the stormy winds.

The extent to which speculation has raised the prices of land in this neighbourhood is almost incredible. Mayew's Point, the first above Kororarika Bay, has on it a few storehouses, which are rented for six hundred pounds a year.

Mr. Clendon, the American consul, for about three hundred and, twenty-five acres, of which only fifty are level, has received thirty thousand pounds from the British government, reserving to himself the remainder, one hundred acres. He bought the whole for a trifle a few years ago.

The introduction of a Sydney police at Kororarika has been of page 299service to that place, for they have dealt in a summary manner with the vagabonds who formerly frequented it.

Among the natives the taboo is yet law, though endeavours are making to introduce other laws among them. It was told me, on good authority, that there had been a trial for murder by a jury of chiefs at or near Hokianga, under the direction of a white man, but there was great reason to believe that the person did not receive that impartial justice which a duly organised court would have assured him. The evidence was said to have been deficient, but the current belief being against him, he was notwithstanding shot.

The natives, we were told, were not a little surprised at the summary way in which justice, or rather punishment, is dealt out by the magistrates of Kororarika.

Their taboo laws are very strict, and carefully observed, even among those who are considered Christians. The chief, Tomati, refused to enter the house of a person whom he took Mr. Hale to visit; for if he had entered, it would have become tabooed; and the native law, which does not permit any man to enter a house in which a chief has resided, even temporarily, would have compelled him to abandon his dwelling. Women alone are allowed to enter the houses of chiefs. An instance of this was witnessed at the pa of Pomare, and another where we attempted to purchase the prow of a canoe. This prow, which was elaborately carved to represent some nondescript animal, with a human head, having the tongue protruded, was accidentally seen in an out-of-the-way storehouse, and was somewhat mutilated; it had belonged to the late chief Kiwikiwi, and was tabooed in the first degree. Overtures were made to the widow of Kiwikiwi for its purchase. It was evidently considered very sacred, for none of the natives would touch it, or even enter the storehouse in which it was kept. Notwithstanding all its sacredness, it was sold, after a little chaffering, for six dollars. The first price asked was two pounds, but the widow could not resist the chance of its sale. After the bargain was concluded, no native could be found willing to incur the penalty of the taboo, by carrying it. When the transportation was accomplished, a new and unexpected difficulty arose; it could not be carried across the water in a canoe, as it was against taboo to do it. The threat of making them refund the money, and take back the ihu or nose, so worked upon the covetousness of old Kawiti, the chief, that he consented to remove it, and also promised to come the next day and paint it red, after the native fashion. This he punctually performed, using a kind of red earth, mixed with water.

The taboo is always resorted to, to protect their kumara-patches, and the fear of breaking it was strongly shown by the intrusion of Mr. Tibbey's goats into the kumara-patch of Pomare, near his pa. No one could be induced to go in to drive them out, for fear of punishment; and a message was sent to the chief to allow them to be expelled. After the permission was given, the natives could not be induced to enter by any other place but that where the goats had broken through.

The natives, for the most part, have their permanent residence in page 300towns, or what are here termed "pas," which are generally built on high promontories, or insulated hills, and fortified in a rude fashion, with a palisade of upright stakes, about ten feet high; the houses or huts are all built closely together.

Pomare's pa being near our anchorage, was frequently visited. It contained about three hundred huts. There was a main entrance through the palisade, near which are two posts, the tops of which are carved into distorted representations of the human figure.

Within the main enclosure are other enclosures, each containing five or six houses, with alleys of two feet wide, that traverse the town. Their houses are very simply constructed; four corner-posts are driven into the ground, and left from two to five feet above the surface; in the centre line two or three strong posts are firmly set in the ground, to support the ridge-pole of the roof: on the posts is placed and lashed a horizontal beam for the rafters to rest upon, and smaller poles are lashed to the posts, at one foot apart, from the ground up; on thefe the roofing is worked: the material used in thatching is the rush (Typha latifolia), or our common cat tail. The manner of making the roof is to tie the materials on the horizontal strips or poles, setting the larger ends on the ground, and driving them close against each other, generally with the fist, and so on until all is closed in, leaving doorways under the eaves, at the gable ends; the rappooing is then cut square off at the upper horizontal beam or plate-piece, and the roof is put on, made of the same material, and generally thatched with it or fern. The roofs have usually but little pitch, which gives a squat look to the houses. Mats are generally hung up at the doorways, but some have doors made of pine; they are low, obliging one to stoop or creep, in entering. Around their houses they have usually peach trees growing, but nothing else is cultivated about them.

The furniture consists of mats, a few baskets and trinkets, an old chest to lock them up in, an iron pot, and a double-barrelled gun, generally of the best maker.

Pomare's house was about twenty feet long by twelve broad; from five to eight feet high. The mode of construction was the same as above described, with the exception that the rafters were flat and ornamented with arabesque work, drawn with soot or black pigment. The posts were likewise carved; but from the dirt and filth with which they were covered, it was difficult, if not impossible, to decipher them. It is said that the New Zealanders have improved in the art of building since they were first visited, but they are still in this respect far behind any of the islanders we Have visited.

Four of our gentlemen, before my arrival, had paid Pomare a visit, and made him some presents, which, so far from satisfying his cupidity, only made him more covetous. On receiving a watch-chain, he asked for the watch; and could not be induced to exhibit a dance, unless each person presented him with a shilling. This exaction was submitted to, though they were disgusted and disappointed with the greediness he manifested. The dance proved very similar to those seen among the Samoans and Tahitians, with the page 301same tossing of the arms and legs, and various contortions of the body, performed by a number of men and women. The only music was that of the voice, two or three singing in a high monotonous key. The dance was, however, seen to disadvantage by candle-light.

On the top of the hill is a sacred enclosure, or Kianga-tabo in which are erected the tombs of the chiefs. A few days before our Visit one was interred here.

This tomb is formed of a small canoe, cut across through the middle and the two parts joined face to face, forming a hollow cone, about seven or eight feet long. The corpse is placed inside, in a sitting posture, and would remain there a year, after which the bones would be carried up the river, and, as Charley Pomare expressed it, would be "thrown away anywhere."

The tomb is painted red, and ornamented with feathers on each side, from the ground to the top; it is covered with a small shed, to protect it from the weather, and enclosed all around with a fence. The funeral ceremonies were not witnessed, but, from the description of the natives, were very noisy, and accompanied with firing of many guns—a general practice on all public occasions. Their faces and arms bore evident marks of their having been engaged in the ceremony, being covered with scratches which they had inflicted on themselves.

The pas of the natives are not in reality strong places, but are little more than insulated and commanding situations. Pomare makes some show of warlike instruments, in the formidable array of three ten-pounders, all of them in bad condition, though looked at and spoken of by the natives with no small pride and conceit. The natives, in time of peace, do not live constantly in these pas; but are mostly occupied at their plantation-grounds; for which reason only a few men were seen lounging about in front of their houses. The women were generally engaged in making and plaiting mats, or cooking, and the men seemed the greater idlers.

Their native dress consists of mats of various kinds, made of the native flax (Phomax), which are braided by hand, and are, some of them, finer than carpeting, while others are as coarse as our cornleaf mats. The latter were worn by the women while at work, tied around the hips, and sometimes over the shoulders. They carry their children on the back, like our Indians.

The men were more luxurious in their dress, having fine mats, nearly as large in size as our blankets, ingeniously and beautifully wrought, and sometimes embroidered. Both of these kinds are still worn, though they are gradually disappearing, and the dress is becoming more European, or rather Tahitian. The women now often wear loose slips of calico, drawn about the neck, which are anything but becoming, while the men have coarse clothing, sometimes a dirty white blanket, at others, different parts of European dress. The blanket is worn in the same manner as the native kakahu. They never think it necessary to use clothing for a covering; it is worn more from pride and ostentation than anything else; and not unfrequently a native may be seen, decked out in a coat and vest without any covering on his nether limbs, and occasionally with a page 302pea-jacket and no shirt. That which gives a foreigner a peculiar disgust to the persons of the New Zealanders, is their filth, which also pervades their houses. They seldom, if ever, bathe themselves, or wash their clothes, which are usually worn till they drop off from age. They occasionally anoint their skins with fish-oil, and of course cannot be expected to keep themselves clean.

Their houses are small, low, begrimed with soot, besmeared with grease, and are filled with filth. As yet, their furniture has received no addition from their intercourse with the whites, except the huge sea-chest and iron pot; the former to deposit their valuables in, and the latter for cooking. It was remarked by us all, how few of the grotesque figures, so much spoken of by voyagers, were to be seen. There appeared to be little carving recently done, in comparison with former times. They are said to have improved in the construction of their houses; but there is still great room for improvement, before they can vie with any of the other islanders we have visited. Their food consists principally of the potato, fish, kumara, or sweet potato, Indian corn, and fern-root, which is found throughout the country. The kumara is much smaller and inferior in quality to those grown in the other Polynesian isles. Here it is a small watery root, and is generally disliked by foreigners. It is preserved in houses constructed for the purpose, to prevent the depredations of the rats. These are built on four posts, which are scraped exceedingly smooth, and are only entered by a single slanting post. The roots are also suspended beneath these houses in large baskets.

Fish are taken with hooks and nets, and are dried and laid by for use. They also eat a clam which they call pipi. Hogs and poultry are raised in abundance, for their own use and the supply of ships. They have, as I before stated, peaches, as well as many small berries, and in a few years they will have all the fruits of the temperate zone introduced by settlers. They formerly ate their fish raw, or cooked with the kumara, after the Polynesian fashion, in the ground, with hot stones; but now they use an iron pot, in which all their food is boiled together. They have a great fondness for rice with sugar or molasses. They do not want for food, for their country is well supplied with wild roots, which in case of necessity or scarcity can be resorted to. They also make a pleasant beverage, resembling spruce-beer, which they call wai-maori.

The greatest changes which have taken place in their customs are the introduction of the use of fire-arms, and the adoption of whale-boats instead of their canoes. The latter are without an outrigger, and differ in this respect from the boats of all the other Polynesians south of the equator. They have also adopted the square sail (which generally consists of a blanket) in place of the triangular one common to all Polynesia.

The ornaments of the New Zealanders are few; those of the men, who are chiefs, generally consist in an elaborate tattooing, that gives a striking appearance to the face; the regularity with which it is done is wonderful. They all have their ears bored, and have small rings in them, made of jade or shark's teeth, tipped with sealing-page 303wax, or small bright-coloured feathers. Around the necks of the chiefs and their wives is hung their "heitiki," made of a stone of a green colour, which is held very sacred, and which, with their "meara"-a short cleaver or club-is handed down from father to son. The heitiki has some resemblance to a human figure, sitting with crossed legs. This stone is procured from the southern island, near the borders of a small lake, which receives its name from the stone, being called Tewai Pounamu, or the Green-stone Water. From the name of this stone, Cook, by mistake, gave the name of Tavy Poenammoo to the southern island. It is also supposed that Captain D'Urville's name of Ika-na-maw (meaning the fish out of Mawi), given by him to the northern islands, may also be the name of some place on the northern side of Cook's Straits, Those who are acquainted with the natives and their language say, that they have no native name for either of the islands, or any part of the country, and have adopted into their language the names given by the whites, with modifications to suit their tongue.

It was a long time before Pomare would consent to his wife parting with the heitiki which she wore, and that belonging to himself (his atua) he would not allow us to take off his neck, even to look at. Our consul interpreted for me a singular story that the southern natives had invented relative to these stones: "That they were found in a large fish, somewhat resembling a shark, which they were obliged to capture and kill for the purpose of obtaining them. When first taken from the stomach of the fish, the stone is soft, but from exposure becomes hard, and must be wrought in its soft state." This story was related by Pomare. The smaller stones were about three inches in length, and the larger ones about five inches.

Pomare is a fine-looking man, and is handsomely tattooed. He is six feet in height, and well formed, with the exception of his feet and legs. His dress was anything but becoming; a blanket was tied about his neck, and hung ungracefully about his person, leaving his right arm free; beneath this he wore a shirt and loose pair of drawers, descending to his knees; the rest of his person and his feet were bare. In his hand he usually carries a short cloak of dog-skin, called topuni, shupuni, or patutu. These short cloaks, are, in shape, not unlike those of the knights in ancient times; they are about three feet long, being formed of common cloth, mat, or sewed dog-skin, dressed with the hair on. Pomare's dress was surmounted by a blue naval cap, with a gold-lace band. The tattooing may give his features somewhat of a fierce aspect, and serve to disguise the expression, yet I cannot but believe that his true feelings are developed in it. His face indicates anything but a kingly character. Perhaps his reputation for business may have something to do with the impression his physiognomy produced. He told me he had two wives, but it is generally believed that thirty would be nearer the truth. The favourite one usually accompanies him; she is highly spoken of for good sense, and Pomare is said to place much confidence in her judgment. She was the best-looking native I saw in New Zealand, but would not be called handsome elsewhere. The page 304missionaries have not yet been able to produce any effect upon Pomare or the family connected with him. Pomare's chief warrior is Mauparawa, who has been persuaded to remain with him, although a native of Hauaki, on the river Thames.

Mauparawa is a much finer-looking man than Pomare-in appearance a very Hercules; but the effects of dissipation are beginning to be perceived in his powerful frame. He has long been a favourite with the whites, who admire him for his prowess. Many of his followers came with him to join Pomare, of whom few are now left; for in an expedition last year he lost almost all of them: having landed on Aoteu or Barrier Island, he was over-powered and badly wounded, barely escaping with life. One of his acts of daring took place in the last feuds with the Kororarikans, by whom he was much detested. Wishing to put a disgrace upon them and show his contempt, he one night took his canoe, and with six of his followers left Pomare's pa or stronghold for Kororarika, the heart of his enemies' strengh. He landed there in the midst of his foes, whom he found fast asleep. Drawing up his canoe on the beach, he went to the house of a white man, whom he awoke, and ordered him to give himself and followers some spirits, threatening him, in case of refusal, with instant death. They took their spirits quietly, desiring the man to say to the Kororarikans in the morning that Mauparawa had been there in the night, with some insulting message; but before leaving, it occurred to him that the man would not have the courage to tell of his visit: he therefore determined to leave his own canoe (which was very well known), and take a whale-boat in its stead. All of which was done merely to throw a slur upon his enemies, at the risk of his own life.

Another person of some note is a cousin of Pomare, called Charley Pomare, the son of the former ruling chief of that name. Hoia, the brother of the king, appears to be a stupid fellow. Charley Pomare was very talkative and intelligent, and although young, appears well informed in the history of the island. In his accounts, he dwells particularly on the extensive ravages committed by Shougi, who, I believe, was taken or went to Europe. After his return, finding he had lost influence in his tribe, in order to regain it, he committed some of the most barbarous cruelties that have ever disgraced these islands, and made his name terrible among the tribes. Most of these, before his wars, had from three hundred to one thousand warriors, but only a few now remain in some of those who were formerly powerful and independent, and who being from their weakness unable to contend by themselves, have become incorporated with other tribes. The reason that the natives give for this diminution is, that Shougi had killed them all. His conquests embraced nearly all the northern part of the north island, whose warriors he then united, and led against the people of the south, about Hauaki, on the river Thames. With, these he waged a long and bloody war, and extended the name of Ngapuhi, which properly belongs to the people about the Bay of Islands, as far south as Kiapara. His death, which happened a few years since, was a great relief both to his followers and foes.

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The last war took place in 1837, about two years before our arrival. It was, in all probability, the last native contest that will be waged. It was caused by the disappearance of a woman of Otuiha, whom the tribe of Kororarika were suspected and accused of having killed and eaten. Formidable preparations were made, and the allies on both sides called in; the people of Kororarika being aided by the forces from Hokianga. The principal battle was fought in a piece of marshy ground between Waikereparu and Otuiha. Here Pomare, better known by the name of Charley, then quite a boy, led the forces of Otuiha, while those of Kororarika were marshalled by Pi, a great chief of Hokianga; and the fight was terminated by Charley first shooting Pi, and then the second chief, who was endeavouring to save the body, with his double-barrelled gun. The heads of the warriors were cut off, and preserved as trophies, while their bodies were left on the ground. They were not eaten, though the Hokianga people are said to be cannibals. This latter imputation, however, should be received with caution, as the information was derived from their enemies.

From all I could learn, Pomare is not deemed very courageous, and was not himself engaged in the fight. He is looked upon as quite avaricious, and as a great coward: he is much addicted to liquor. It will, perhaps, excite surprise to learn how he came to exercise the influence he does over his countrymen; it is entirely owing to his eloquence, by which he is enabled to lead them anywhere. When Charley was asked the cause of his uncle's influence, he said that Pomare could lead the people wherever he chose; and to the question as to why he himself was not king, he answered, "Oh, that is maori," (country fashion).

Some of the gentlemen visited the pa of Pomare, for the purpose of witnessing his return from a visit to one of his allies. The canoe was seen coming up the bay, paddled by forty-five natives, and on the side of the hill all the people of the pa were collected, shouting, waving their garments, and firing muskets, to welcome their friends. When the chief touched the shore, a curious scene ensued. All the boatmen seized their paddles and ran some distance along the beach, where they halted, and formed themselves into a compact body, in martial array. Those of the pa did the same, and were stationed in front of the canoe; the former party then returned, and when near, the latter made simultaneously ten or twelve leaps directly upward, waving their paddles over their heads, and giving at each jump a hard guttural sound, like hooh. The two parties then changed positions, when the boatmen went through the same motions, after which the whole mingled together. This ceremony was supposed to represent that used on the return of a war-party. Pomare was found shortly afterwards seated in front of his house, surrounded by his people, who were busily engaged in preparing a great feast, for which he was giving directions, and which shortly took place, accompanied by much merry-making.

The chief, Pomare, on one occasion paid a visit to the gentlemen of the squadron at Mr. Tibbey's, with some fish for sale, and for which he had been fishing several hours. He first asked a shilling page 306for them, which was handed to him, when he immediately raised his price to two shillings, and when this was refused, he went away in high dudgeon, and complained to me on my arrival, that he had not been treated well. Many instances of the same kind occurred.

Mr. Hale induced Hoia, Pomare's brother, to give him a list of the various clans of the great Yopaki tribe, which under Shougi, had formerly been the terror of all New Zealand. From this and other authorities, the number of the tribes were given at one hundred and five, in which were comprised upwards of sixty thousand fighting men. Those who are more acquainted, and have the best opportunities of knowing, state the population at less than three hundred thousand; there are others who rate the population from thirty to forty thousand. A mean between the two estimates would be nearer the truth. From the information I received, I am satisfied that it cannot be great. The population of both islands is said to amount to from one hundred and forty to one hundred and eighty thousand, and the whole of this number are on the north island, with the exception of three or four thousand who are on the southern island. It is remarkable that every tribe has a name peculiar to itself, and distinct from the district which it inhabits: thus the natives of Kororarika are called Yaitawake; those of Hauaki (the river Thames), Ngaitawake; and, with few exceptions, these names begin with the syllable of Nga or Ngati-most commonly the latter. These names are thought to have reference to clanship. The members of each tribe appear to be all connected by the ties of consanguinity.

Some of our naturalists made a visit to a town called Wangarara, situated near the coast, about thirty miles to the southward of Cape Brett. They passed up the Waicaddie river, eleven miles to Waicaddie Pa. Here they found a missionary station occupied by a Mr. Baker; but none of the family were at home. The old chiet of Waicaddie was very indignant, and treated them quite uncivilly, because they were going to Wangarara. After procuring a guide, they set out on foot for that place. The distance is twelve miles, which they accomplished by sunset. The road lay over mountains, The village of Wangarara consists of four or five miserable huts, or what would more properly be designated kennels, made in the rudest manner, and thatched with fern-leaves. In order to enter these, they were obliged to crawl on their hands and knees. The furniture of the chief's house consisted of a few mats, two or three fishing-nets, and an old chest. A fire was smoking in the centre to keep out the musquitoes, and the resemblance to a smoke-house was striking; or, perhaps, the latter would have suffered by the comparison. The accommodations in this hut were rather confined and crowded; for besides themselves, there were three runaway sailors as guests. They, therefore, gladly accepted the invitation of the chief Ko-towatowa, who was on a visit here, to accompany him to his hut, at the mouth of the bay. They went with him in his fine large canoe, and reached his residence late in the evening, where they found themselves much more comfortably accommodated, having clean mats and a good supper of pigeons and potatoes. This page 307was Ko-towatowa's principal farm. His pa is situated a few miles tip the bay, on a rocky point, and contains one hundred and fifty houses. It was, at the time of their visit, nearly deserted, in consequence of the attention demanded by their crops; and this is the case with nearly all the other pas at this season.

This part of the country is flat, and has a good soil; and here Ko-towatowa raises most of his potatoes and kumaras, which are larger and better than those raised at the Bay of Islands. They also raise a good supply of Indian corn, and are at no loss for food, which was evident from the quantities of dried as well as fresh fish which were seen.

A great difference was perceived between the natives of this place and those of the Bay of Islands. The former have had little or no
new zealand girl.

new zealand girl.

communication with foreigners, their manners are more simple, and they have little or no idea of the conventional value of money. The people of this place appeared more virtuous and happy, and a number of young women were seen, good-looking, sprightly, and full of animation.

They here saw the old chief of Wangarara, grand-uncle to Ko-towatowa. He was very feeble, with white hair, and clad in an old dog-skin robe. He was observed to sit all day on a small mound of dirt and pipi shells; having lately lost a relation, he, according to custom, is tabooed, for the season. He does not help himself, and is not allowed to touch anything with his hands; his grand-daughter, a sprightly girl, waits upon him; and it was pleasing to witness the watchfulness she evinced in attending to his wants, often filling and lighting his pipe, and holding it in his mouth while he smoked. Notwithstanding the promising appearance of Ko-towatowa's house and premises, it was found swarming with fleas and other vermin. Ko-towatowa is a member of the Episcopal Church, and daily performed worship in his native tongue. After their morning meal, they began their rambles, but had not proceeded far before they were met by a large party of natives, who kept saying to them, "Walk about one hilling" by which they soon understood that they were required to pay one shilling for the privilege of walking on the beach and picking up shells; on Ko-towatowa's being appealed to, he soon dispersed them. On a hill, near to this place, Mr. Drayton found a beautiful specimen of Bulimus Shougii.

Wangarara Bay is a deep indentation in the coast, to which it runs parallel, and is separated from the ocean by a narrow belt of high and rocky land. It is said to have good anchorage for a distance of six miles from its mouth. The entrance is very deep, page 308free from danger, and about one mile wide; it is a much safer port than the Bay of Islands. A vessel might pass by its entrance without suspecting that a harbour existed. Provisions of all kinds are much cheaper and better than at the Bay; and although the natives are aware of this difference, yet not being able to transport their provisions there, they are content to dispose of them at a less price.

Their kind friend Ko-towatowa took them back to Wangarara, stopping on the way at his pa, where he presented them with quantities of peaches, which had been tabooed to his people. At Wangarara they again found their guide, and the two old chiefs-the elder of whom was called Kawau, and the other, a little younger, Rauhenna: both of them have the character of being great rascals. The contrast between them and Ko-towatowa was very much to their disparagement. With some reluctance they ordered a pot of potatoes to be boiled; but when night came, they positively refused entrance into their huts unless each gave a shilling, to which Ko-towatowa sternly objected, saying that they were his guests, and should not pay. A quarrel between the chiefs ensued, and the only way it was prevented from going to extremity, was to slip the money quietly into old Kawau's hand; after which peace was restored, and they retired for the night, where they were effectually tormented by the fleas and vermin. Ko-towatowa, on taking leave of them, refused any compensation for his services; but a pressing invitation to pay them a visit at the Bay was accepted.

They returned by the same route, and by noon reached Waicaddie Pa, It contains about two hundred houses, and is situated between two small fresh-water streams. This is the most cleanly and extensive town in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands. Mr. Baker, of the Episcopal mission, has settled here; he has many acres of land, and comfortable dwellings, farms extensively, and has about twenty head of cattle, with good pasture for them. The natives also possess some cattle. By night they reached their lodgings.

One who has long known the New Zealanders, and on whose judgment reliance may be placed, gives them credit for intelligence and generosity, and says that they are hospitable and confiding to strangers, persevering where the object concerns themselves, strongly attached to their children, and extremely jealous of their connubial rights. A violation of the latter is punished with death, not only to the parties themselves, but sometimes extended to the near relatives of the offenders. They are crafty, but not overreaching in their dealings, covetous for the possession of novelties, although trustworthy when anything is placed under their immediate charge, but not otherwise over-honest.

A transient visitor would hardly give them so high a character, and would, I think, have an unfavourable opinion of the race. He might, however, award to them intelligence; but they appear vindictive, and, from a number of facts, must be treacherous. One cannot be long among them, without discovering that they are adepts at trickery, and suspicious in their dealings. These bad qualities they may have acquired from the number of low whites page 309that are among them. They seem destitute of any of the higher feelings, such as gratitude, tenderness, honour, delicacy, &c. They are extremely indolent and dirty, disgusting in their habits, and carry on the infamous practice of traffic in women, which even the highest chiefs are said to be engaged in, openly and without shame. The vice of drunkenness does not exist among them to any degree, and it is not a little astonishing that the bad example set them should not have been more followed. They are extremely proud and resentful of any insult, to avenge which the whole tribe usually unites. As an instance of this, we may cite the conduct of Ko-towa-towa, whose hospitality to one of our parties has been recorded. At the invitation of the gentlemen who had been indebted to him for attentions, he visited them at Tibbey's, when an untoward circumstance occurred, which had well nigh ended in an open affront. As they were seated in the porch of Tibbey's house, one of their thoughtless visitors, by way of affording amusement to the company, played off upon Ko-towatowa a boyish trick, by burning him on the nose with a cigar. This produced great anger in the chief, who would have at once punished the rudeness, but through the timely interference of the by-standers he became appeased, but required some atonement for the insult offered him; a half-dollar was given him, but he said he would accept only half, as he did not want to be paid for it, but merely desired a token that it had been atoned for. In the opinion of all, he rose much above the silly trifler who had been the perpetrator of the joke.

The natives are peculiarly sensible to any insult of this kind. A short time before our arrival, a mischievous white boy, staying with our consul, had placed a small brass kettle on the head of an old chief, which caused some amusement to the by-standers. The chief at the time did not show any signs of being offended. He had always been well disposed and peaceable towards the whites, and was known to have a strong partiality towards the family. On going to the pa, however, he mentioned the circumstance to his tribe, which produced a great excitement among them. They assembled and advanced in a body to the dwelling, to require satisfaction for the affront offered, and although they were told and convinced it was done in playfulness, they required atonement; and this being refused, they took all the clothes that were hanging to dry on the lines, and everything they could find about the premises. They even took the shoes and clothes off a sick boy, who was lying in the veranda. Their rapacity was only stopped by the courage of the mistress of the house, who, being unable to check their proceedings by remonstrances, threw a billet of wood at their principal chief. This bold act astonished him, and from admiration of her courage caused them at once to desist, saying she had a big heart, which is their figurative term for a courageous person. Insults given in this accidental way, have been known to occasion the most deadly feuds. They have, however, great command of temper when insulted. As an instance of this, an anecdote was related to me of some chiefs having become offended at the Episcopal missionaries, in consequence of some transaction respecting lands, in which they page 310conceived themselves wronged. The offended parties proceeded to Pahia in order to demand redress; but on their arrival there, the missionaries were absent, and although the whole property was at their mercy, there being no one on the premises but females, they did not harm anything, and declined to enter into any explanation until they had seen the missionaries. Taking their seats quietly at the gate, they awaited their return, which did not take place for some hours after, when they demanded an explanation of the supposed wrong, and atonement for it; and being satisfied, they departed without any molestation or injury whatever. It will, in all probability, be said that such patience was in consequence of the parties complained of being missionaries; but that could not well have been the case, for they are by no means popular with the natives, and the reason is, that the missionaries show very little regard for their own countrymen, which, in the eyes of a New Zealander, is a great crime.

From all I could gather, I am inclined to believe them an observant people, and that they would become an industrious one, were it less easy to provide themselves with the necessaries of life. They show much energy of character in their warlike pursuits, on which their whole minds seem yet to dwell. The spontaneous productions of their soil furnish them so easily with all that is required for their food and clothing, that there is no sufficient incitement to industry.

The New Zealanders are above the middle size, well formed and athletic; they vary in colour from a chesnut to a light copper; they have black hair, very thick and curly, which many suffer to grow long, while others crop it close. I saw few with whiskers, and their beards were light. The forehead is high, sloping backwards; the nose frequently aquiline and prominent; the eyes are black and piercing, but rather small; the tattooing gives a hardness of outline to the chiefs that is not so observable in the common people; they want, however, the softness of the rest of the Polynesian family, of which they are a part, not having the full muscles, or soft contour of face, which we had hitherto observed among the groups we visited. They are as indolent as the other cognate races, but more capable of undergoing fatigue.

The following is one of their traditions respecting their origin. The first natives came from Hawaiki, situated towards the east, in several canoes, and the names of some of the principal men were Tanepepeke, Tanewitika, Taneweka, Rongokako, Kopaia, Kornan-poko: the canoes in which they came were called Kotahinui, Kotearawa, Kohorouta, Takitima. They settled first at Kawia, on the western coast; then near Maketu, Turanga, and Ahuriri, at the east cape. The natives, it may be as well to remark, say that this story is all nonsense, yet the similarity of the foregoing names with those of the people of Savaii, in the Samoan Group, is striking. This, connected with the story, which we shall hereafter quote, of the introduction of the kumara in canoes, taken together, would appear to afford very strong reason for the conjecture that they were derived from the same source.

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The trade in native curiosities is not quite so great as it used to be, particularly in tattooed heads. So great at one time was the traffic in the latter article, between New Zealand and Sydney, that in 1831 it was prohibited by law. In Governor Darling's administration of the colony, the chief Shougi is supposed to have made large sums by it, and there are some persons who, in part, impute his wars to his desire of gain; for, having been in England, he became acquainted with the value set upon them, and the demand for them. It is generally thought that many of the heads thus sold have been prepared by the white runaway convicts, who have learned the mode of doing this from the natives. They are still to be obtained, though great precaution is used in disposing of them. The penalty for selling them is fifty guineas.

The New Zealanders are still cannibals, although in the districts where the missionaries reside, they have done much to put a stop to this practice. After the arrival of our gentlemen, an instance occurred of a chief having killed a boy about fourteen years of age, as a medicine for his son, who was sick; and as this prescription did not effect a cure, a girl about the same age was to be served up, but the timely interference of the missionaries prevented it.

The present condition of the New Zealanders is inferior to that of some of the other Polynesian nations. There is, as in other places, little or no occasion for labour; the industry of a few weeks is all that is needed to supply them with food for the year; their traffic in pigs and other supplies to whalers and traders is quite sufficient to procure their necessary supply of clothing. It is said their moral condition has much improved of late, and that they are becoming sensible of the advantages of civilized life. In the former direction there is still great room for improvement, and the latter, I should think, as yet far above their ideas of honesty and of the obligations they owe to those about them. Perhaps those who have become somewhat attached to the Christian religion may be a little improved, but the only instance that we can recall to our recollection is that of the chief Ko-towatowa. The chiefs, however, in general, show a growing disposition to acquire comforts about their dwellings, and in comparison with the other natives, are almost cleanly in their persons. Industry is also making progress in the cultivation of their plantations. If I could believe it possible that the dwellings of the lower classes of the people had ever been more filthy, or their persons less cleanly, I would more readily credit that some improvement had taken place. Numbers are said to be able to read and write their own language, having been taught by the missionaries, and then have afterwards been known to take a pride in instructing others, and to display a great eagerness in the acquisition of further knowledge; but they are far, very far behind, in the rudiments of education, the natives of other groups where the missionaries have been established, although, as respects natural capacity, they may probably rank higher.

There is much that is worthy of notice in the missionary operations here. They seem to have pursued a different course from that followed at the other groups, and appear to begin by teaching the page 312useful arts, and setting an example of industry. This has given rise to much remark. The missionaries of the Episcopal Church appear to keep aloof from the natives, and an air of stiffness and pride, unbecoming a missionary in most minds, seems to prevail. They have a chapel at Pahia and one at Tipoona, but very few persons attend; their native and Sunday schools have also very few scholars; and they appear to be doing but little in making converts. Most of the natives, however, have morning and evening prayers, but their practices and character show anything but a reform in their lives. The missionaries hold large tracts of land, and about the Bay of Islands the Church mission (Episcopal) may be said to have the entire control of the property. At the missionary establishment at Pahia they have a printing-press, and have printed some parts of the Scriptures. They are now printing a New Zealand grammar. In the native traditions, there appears to be some idea of a creation, having a general resemblance to that of the other nations of the Polynesian groups. The first god was Maui, who fished up the earth out of the sun; afterwards a great flood came, which covered the land, and then the waters were dried up by another god, who set fire to the forest. From the accounts and observations of all, it may be safely asserted that the natives have no religion. Some few apparently follow the form of it, and call themselves professing Christians; but the majority, or greater number of the natives, have none, either Christian or pagan. When undergoing tuition by the missionaries, they are said frequently to stop and ask for a present for having said their hymn; and it is said, I know not with what truth, that the Catholic missionaries have been in the habit of giving them some small token in the shape of crosses, which the natives look upon as a sort of compensation.

At Kororarika, as has been stated, there is a Roman Catholic chapel, and it is the residence now of the bishop of the South Sea Catholic mission. Some singular anecdotes are related of the natives, of their first joining one denomination and then another, receiving little articles as presents from each; indeed, it is said that there are few of them but conceive they ought to be paid for saying their prayers, or attending mass. At Hokianga there is also a Methodist or Wesleyan mission, which is generally considered the most active, and is doing a great deal of good.

The native pas are generally scenes of revelry and debauchery. My crew soon got tired of their visits to that of Pomare, and complained much of the dishonesty of the natives. Pomare and his suite paid the ship a visit a few days after our arrival, for the purpose of obtaining his quota of presents. I received him and all his retinue with kindness, and made him several presents, among which was a fowling-piece; but he had, in going round the ship, seen one of Hall's patent rifles, that loaded at the breech; and nothing would satisfy him but to exchange the gun I had given him for one of these. He surprised me by at once comprehending its facility of use, and its excellent manufacture. After a great deal of importunity, I consented to the exchange, but found that he was inclined, after having once succeeded, to beg everything that struck page break
club dance.

club dance.

page 313his fancy. In this he was followed by the other chiefs, among the rest by Hoia, his brother. To, the latter, I gave an old cocked hat, which pleased him exceedingly, and I was not a little amused to see him wearing it, and dressed in a tight coat and vest, with bare legs, exhibiting one of the most ridiculous figures imaginable, although, in his own opinion, the beau-ideal of elegance. Pomare went about the ship begging for military caps with gold bands, and was extremely importunate until he found that nothing more could be obtained. I by no means admired his appearance on this visit; for, although of good proportions, tall, and well made, he is awkward and parrot-toed. His height and manner of walking make this defect more apparent, and he wants that dignity which is sometimes seen in a savage of our country. The New Zealanders, however, struck us as having a closer resemblance to our North American Indians than any others we had yet met with among the Polynesian nations. I was surprised to see how little respect was paid to the orders of Pomare by his followers, and was told that there is little authority acknowledged by those who are free. His slaves and wives are those who must sustain the burden of his wrath; their lives are at his disposal, and with them his will is law; they seem, however, to be treated kindly. Pomare is said to be entirely under the control of his favourite wife, of whom I have heretofore spoken. She is a far more respectable person than her husband, and was the most intelligent native I met with.

Wishing to see their war dances, I requested Pomare to gratify us with an exhibition, which he consented to do. The ground chosen was the hill-side of Mr. Clendon, our consul's place, where between three and four hundred natives, with their wives and children, assembled. Pomare divided the men into three parties, or squads, and stationed these at some distance from each other. Shortly after this was done, I received a message from him, to say that they were all hungry, and wanted me to treat them to something to eat. This was refused until they had finished their dance, and much delay took place in consequence. Pomare and his warriors were at first immovable; but they in a short time determined they would unite on the hill-top, which was accordingly ordered, although I was told they were too hungry to dance well. Here they arranged themselves in a solid column, and began stamping, shouting, jumping, and shaking their guns, clubs, and paddles in the air, with violent gesticulations, to a sort of savage time. A more grotesque group cannot well be imagined; dressed, half dressed, or entirely naked. After much preliminary action, they all set off, with a frantic shout, at full speed, in a war-charge, which not only put to flight all the animals that were feeding in the neighbourhood, but startled the spectators. After running about two hundred and fifty yards, they fired their guns and halted, with another shout. They then returned in the same manner, and stopped before us, a truly savage multitude, wrought up to apparent frenzy, and exhibiting all the modes practised of maiming and killing their enemies, until they became exhausted, and lay down on the ground like tired dogs, panting for breath. One of the chiefs page 314then took an old broken dragoon-sword, and began running to and fro before us, flourishing it, and at the same time delivering a speech at the top of his voice. The speech, as interpreted to me, ran thus: "You are welcome, you are our friends, and we are glad to see you," frequently repeated. After three or four had shown off in this way, they determined they must have something to eat, saying that I had promised them rice and sugar, and they ought to have it. Mr. Clendon, however, persuaded them to give one of their feast-dances. The performers consisted of about fifteen old, and as many young persons, whom they arranged in close order. The young girls laid aside a part of their dress to exhibit their forms to more advantage, and they commenced a kind of recitative, accompanied by all manner of gesticulations, with a sort of guttural husk for a chorus. It was not necessary to understand their language to comprehend their meaning; and it is unnecessary to add, that their tastes did not appear very refined, but were similar to what we have constantly observed among the heathen nations of Polynesia. Their impatience now became ungovernable, and hearing that the rice and sugar were being served out, they retreated precipitately down the hill, where they all set-to most heartily, with their wives and children, to devour the food. This to me was the most entertaining part of the exhibition. They did not appear selfish towards each other; the children were taken care of, and all seemed to enjoy themselves. I received many thanks in passing among them, and their countenances betokened contentment. Although they were clothed for the occasion in their best, they exhibited but a squalid and dirty appearance, both in their dress and persons.

No native music was heard by any of our officers, and they seem to have little or none in their composition. In their attempts to sing the hymns, chants, or old psalm-tunes, they entirely failed to produce anything like a resemblance. The pitch of their voices when speaking, is higher than that of Europeans, (the French excepted) and that of the women was not a tone above, which gives additional coarseness to their character. Both sexes have but little intonation in conversation, and there are no tones heard which would indicate sympathy of feeling.

Chatham Island, which will probably soon be connected with the English colony of New Zealand, is now considered as a nest of rogues, and several vessels have been robbed there. Its inhabitants have a tradition that they are derived from New Zealand, whence their progenitors came about a century since, having been driven off in their canoes by a storm, and that on landing they had changed their language. The change consisted in reversing the ordinary construction of their phrases, and the syllables of words, as, for Hare-mai, Mai-hare; and for Paika, Ka-pai. The natives of Chatham Island are not tattooed, do not wear clothing, and are said to be more intelligent than their progenitors. They were conquered a few years ago by a party of New Zealanders from Port Nicholson, who had been driven out by the Kapiti tribes, under the celebrated Rauparaka.

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The climate of New Zealand is extremely changeable; but although it may be considered as the cause of many diseases among the natives, it is, perhaps, the best suited to a European constitution of any in the South Seas. A large quantity of rain falls during the year, but I was unable to obtain any record of its exact amount. The temperature at Kororarika, during the months of February and March, varied from 53° to 78°, and the mean was 64.2°. In the sun the thermometer rose as high as 110°. The principal prevailing winds are from the south-east and west; the former are frequently in squalls, and attended with rain: May and June are the rainy months.

Warm days are often succeeded by cold nights, which give rise to pectoral diseases among the natives, many of whom are affected by phthisis, or swept off by rapid consumptions. They are also liable to rheumatism and pleurisy. European and American residents, who enjoy better food and clothing, and inhabit more comfortable dwellings, are exempt from these complaints. Measles, hooping-cough, and other epidemics, have been introduced from foreign vessels. While we lay at the Bay of Islands, the influenza prevailed on shore and was communicated to our crew. The venereal disease, propagated by their licentious habits of life, and unchecked by medicine, is rapidly reducing the numbers of the natives.

The greater part of the soil of the portion of New Zealand which fell under our observation is too sterile to be profitably employed in agriculture. It consists, in general, of an obdurate yellow loam, capable of bearing little else, after it is cleared of trees and brushwood, than the fern (Pteris esculenta). Where the soil is volcanic, however, it is comparatively fertile; but this description of ground is rare.

Wheat and other grains are raised, and the fruits and vegetables of temperate climates succeed well. The hills are almost bare of vegetation; for after the ground is cleared, the heavy falls of rain sweep the soil from them into the valleys, and wear the hill-sides into gulleys. In this manner patches of good lands are formed in them, which, however, rarely exceed fifteen or twenty acres in extent. The only continuous level tract of as much as a hundred acres, is on the farm of Mr. Clendon, on Manawa Bay. The sterility of the soil is not the only obstacle the agriculturist has to contend with. The fern, of which we have spoken, springs up the moment the forest is removed, and covers the land, with a dense vegetation. Ploughing is not sufficient to extirpate it, for it will spring again from the severed roots, and choke the grain. It can only be completely eradicated by removing it by hand and burning it. The ashes are then spread upon the ground, and are found to be a good manure. In this manner the sons of Mr. Williams, the missionary at Pahia, are endeavouring to bring a farm they possess into cultivation. Natives are employed in the labour, and they have in this way cleared several acres.

The fern, from its size and strength, is supposed to indicate a fertile soil; but this is not the fact, for I have seen nearly a thousand page 316acres in a body covered with a growth of it six feet in height, where the ground was deemed fit for no purpose but to furnish brick-clay. So densely do the ferns grow, that it is impossible to force a way through them, and the only mode of traversing the country where they abound, is by following the native paths; these pursue the high ground and ridges, and have branches which lead to the neighbouring cultivated spots. The moment the culture of the land is neglected, the fern again makes its appearance.

The clayey soils afford only a scanty growth of grass, which is scarcely fit for pasture, and indeed there appear to be no native grasses. In the more fertile soils, red clover, according to Mr. Brackenridge, does well; and he believes that white clover would succeed on the hills, which are now bare. The climate is favourable to the growth of the foreign grasses.

After the fern has been burnt and the ashes spread, a crop of wheat is raised, and the land is laid down in grass. To give an idea of the produce of land near the Bay of Islands, we may cite the instance of Captain Wright's farm, which is eligibly situated, and is considered as possessing a fertile soil. He had twenty acres in wheat, whose average product was only fourteen bushels per acre.

Among the foreign fruits which have been introduced, are apples, peaches, and grapes. The latter grow best in the volcanic soils, but the climate is considered too moist to permit them to attain perfection. The peaches are fine, but the propensity of the natives to pluck them before they are ripe prevents them from attaining their full flavour. Cape gooseberries are plentiful, but the common description of that fruit and the currant have not been introduced. Late writers have given marvellous accounts of the growth of the fruit-trees of temperate climates in New Zealand; but these may be set down as exaggerations calculated to mislead, and intended to subserve speculation. The success of Captain Wright, however, in raising fruit and vegetables, has been great.

Among the native vegetables is the sweet potato, which they call kumara: it is plentiful.

The missionaries stated that the natives have a remarkable tradition in relation to this root, namely, that it was first brought to the island in canoes of a different construction from their own, and composed of pieces of wood sewed together.

Cook left the common potato, which has been cultivated ever since his visit, and is now plentiful.

The native hemp (Phormium tenax) is a most useful plant; it grows in large quantities, and is applied by them to many purposes, besides being a principal article of foreign trade. It is an important material in the construction of their houses, for which purpose it is made into cords, that are also employed for more common uses. It is manufactured into fine fishing-lines, which are much prized at Sydney for their strength and beauty.

The manufacture of the hemp is altogether performed by the women, who cut it, and after it has been dried a little, divide it into strips of about an inch in width. The outer green fibres are then scraped off with a piece of glass, or a sharp shell. The inner fibres page 317being thus exposed are easily separated, and the greatest care is taken to keep all the fibres as straight as possible, both in this and the following operations. To this precaution the great strength of the cordage the natives make of it, is owing. After the fibres are separated they are washed, rubbed, and laid in the sun to bleach.

The vegetation of New Zealand is of a fresher and deeper green than that of New Holland, and has some resemblance to that of Terra del Fuego. According to the missionaries, the ridges, and indeed the greater part of the northern island, are destitute of trees; and the woods, which are confined to the valleys, are for the most part in detached spots. The western part of this island contains more actual forests than the eastern.

It was remarked by our botanists that trees of genera which in other countries grow in the more barren soils, are found in New Zealand in those which are fertile. This is, in particular, the case with the pine tribe. It also appeared from the position of isolated trees, and the quantity of Kaurie-gum found embedded in the soil, that forests had formerly been more gradually spread over the face of the country, than they are at present.

The gum which has just been spoken of is still produced by the Kaurie pine, which is the finest of the timber trees of New Zealand. The greatest portion of that which is shipped from the island is dug from the ground. Small quantities of the latter description have been purchased by our countrymen and shipped to the United States, where it was manufactured into a varnish. This was of a good quality, and was afterwards sent to New South Wales and New Zealand, where it is sold for copal varnish.

The Kaurie and Kaikotia pines yield spars which for large ships are not surpassed by any in the world. The trees are generally large and are easily brought to the coast by means of the numerous streams.

The natives use these trees in building their canoes, which are dug out of a single log. They have no outrigger, and are in consequence liable to accident from want of stability. Great ingenuity is shown in repairing them. We saw a war-canoe which was sufficiently large to be manned by fifty men; it had a prow extended ten feet upwards, which was elaborately carved and decked with tufts of feathers. The paddles have spoon-shaped blades, by which the canoes are propelled with great swiftness.

No native quadrupeds were found wild in New Zealand. Cattle have been introduced, and thrive. Those which are imported require to be fed, but those raised in the country can provide for themselves, and grow fat by browsing.

Among the birds are the native nightingale and the tui, also known under the sobriquet of the parson-bird. The latter is a great favourite with the natives.

I saw it only in a cage, and its note did not strike me as pleasing, but several of our gentlemen saw and heard it in the woods; they describe its note as rather louder than that of the bird called by the Samoans "poe," and it is at times said to utter a cry resembling the sound of a trumpet.

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The domestic fowl does not appear to have been known before this island was visited by white men.

The great staple articles of trade are flax, spars, and wheat; potatoes and gum are also exported; but the whale-fishery is of more value at present to foreigners than all the productions of the soil. This is carried on from the shores by parties of New Zealanders and foreigners.

Many spars are now exported to England, which are obtained at the trifling cost of a few blankets and muskets. Besides guns and blankets, gunpowder, lead, coarse blue and white cottons, whiskey, rice, sugar, and molasses are the articles most in request. These now bring enormous prices, in consequence of the demand caused by the number of immigrants; but the effect of these prices is to render labour proportionably dear.