page 274

Chapter XIX.
Antarctic Cruise—(continued)

Pon the 22nd January, 1840, the Porpoise lost sight of the Peacock, and continued beating to the south-west. The weather was extremely cold; sea-water froze on being a few minutes in the bucket on deck. Some shrimps were caught. The water at 3 p.m. was much discoloured; got a cast of the lead with 200 fathoms: no bottom; found the current south by east three-fourths of a mile per hour. At 4h. 30m., passed large icebergs, one of which, had several dark horizontal veins, apparently of earth, through it; large quantities of floe and drift-ice to the southward; the sea very smooth. A report of high land was made this morning; indeed everything indicated the proximity of land. The number of seals, whales, penguins, shrimps, &c., had very much increased. The pure white pigeons were also seen in numbers.

23rd. Countless icebergs in sight; the sea quite smooth; not the slightest motion perceptible. At meridian, they were in latitude 66° 44' S., longitude 151° 24' E., and close to the barrier, which appeared quite impenetrable, as far as the eye could reach from aloft, to the north-north-west and north-north-east, with numberless immense ice-islands entangled and enclosed in it in all directions. The position they occupied seemed an inlet of elliptical shape, with an opening to the north. It was needless to count the many scattering page 275islands of ice distinct from the vast chain; intermingled with field-ice, they studded the gulf like so many islands of various shapes and dimensions. At 2h. 25m., a sail was discovered on the lee-bow; kept off to communicate, supposing it to be the Vincennes or Peacock. At 2h. 30m., the Peacock was made out on the southern board, showing no disposition to communicate; showed our colours, and hauled to the westward.

24th. The day was remarkably fine, such as is seldom experienced in this region. The water appeared much discoloured, and of a dirty olive-green colour. At meridian, they again made the field-ice, and tacked to the northward, passing through large quantities of ice-islands; weather looking bad, with occasional light snow-storms.

25th, Part of this day was clear and pleasant, though snow fell at intervals; the field-ice was in sight several times, and many iceislands of great size and beauty. Penguins were swimming round, and also several shoals of black fish; a black albatross was shot; towards night the weather became very thick; they were in longitude 150° E., latitude 65° 56' S.

26th. Fresh winds blowing from the eastward; during the first few hours, a thick snow-storm; at 4 a. m. it cleared; at six o'clock made a sail; the strange sail fired a gun and made signal, when we bore down and spoke her; she proved to be the Vincennes; compared chronometers, and received rate; bore off to the westward under all sail: found the drift and floe-ice very thick, and were with great difficulty enabled to navigate through it; wind fresh, with a long swell from the south-west; at 5h. 30m., the ice increasing in quantity; found it was necessary to haul off. Lost sight of the Vincennes; weather very threatening. The course during the day proved a very tortuous one; many penguins resting on the ice; their, gait is an awkward kind of strut.

Received orders to-day by signal to meet the Vincennes along the icy barrier between the 20th and 28th of next month.

27th. This day proved clear and cold; wind from the south-west; ice forming rapidly on the vessel; at meridian, lost sight of the Vincennes; very many ice-islands in sight; latitude 65° 41' S., longitude 142° 31' E. On this day, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold determined with the fair wind to pass to the extreme limit of his orders, longitude 105° E.; being of opinion he would thereby save time, and be enabled more effectually to examine the barrier with what he thought would be found the prevailing wind, viz., that from the westward; in this, however, he was mistaken.

The 28th set in with a light breeze from east-north-east; made all sail; at 5 a. m., wind increasing rapidly, snow falling fast, and weather becoming thick; at six o'clock, made the floe and drift-ice; shortened sail, and hauled off to the north-west, it becoming so thick as to render any advance unsafe; until meridian, very strong winds from the eastward, the brig under close-reefed topsails; at 2 p. m., found it difficult and hazardous to proceed, passing within a short distance of ice-islands, and just seeing them dimly through the page 276obscurity; at three, the brig was hove-to, and Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold says, in reference to their situation—

"I felt great anxiety to proceed, but the course was so perilous, the extent and trend of the barrier so uncertain, I could not reconcile it with prudence to advance. The frequent falling in with fields of drift-ice, the numerous and often closely-grouped chains of icebergs, were sufficient to point out discretion. The long-extended barrier was encountered in latitude 65° 8' S.; at twelve to-day our position was 65° 16' S.; it is easy to perceive the possibility of a trend northerly again, which would have placed us in a large and dangerous gulf, with a heavy gale blowing directly on, without a hope of escape.

"At 8 p. m., blowing very heavy; the snow falling rendered vision beyond a few yards impossible; I have seldom experienced a heavier blow, and towards the conclusion the squalls were severe and frequent."

The barometer at 3 a. m. stood at 28 200 in., the lowest point it reached during the gale. The temperature of the air was 26°.

The severe gale continued during the 29th, with a heavy sea, and snow falling thickly; at 8 a. m. the gale abated, and the clouds broke away; through the day the sun occasionally out; the weather appeared unsettled; the sun set red and fiery; the latitude was observed 64° 46' S., longitude 137° 16' E.

On the 30th they stood again to the south-west; at 2 a. m. they made the barrier of field-ice, extending from south-east to west, when it became necessary to haul more to the north-west; the weather becoming thick with a heavy fall of snow, at four o'clock, the wind increasing, compelled them to shorten sail; at 7h. 30m. the ice in fields was discovered close aboard, heading west; at this time hauled immediately on a wind to the north-east, and soon passed out of sight of the ice and out of danger; during the day blowing a gale of wind, and very heavy sea running, passing occasional ice-islands; at meridian, being clear of the barrier, the brig was hove-to under storm-stails, to await the clearing of the weather. In the afternoon the weather showed signs of clearing; the sun coming out, again made sail to approach the barrier; no ice in sight; great numbers of black petrels about.

At 4 p. m. discovered a ship ahead; and shortly after another was made, both standing to the northward; the brig hauled up to the north-west, intending to cut them off and speak them, supposing them to be the Vincennes and the Peacock; shortly afterwards they were seen to be strangers, being smaller ships than our own; at 4h. 30m. the Porpoise hoisted her colours. Knowing that an English squadron under Captain Ross was expected in these seas. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold took them for his ships, and was, as he says, "preparing to cheer the discoverer of the North Magnetic Pole."

" At 4h, 50m., being within a mile and a-half, the strangers showed French colours; the leeward and sternmost displayed a broad pennant; concluded now that they must be the French discovery ships under Captain D'Urville, on a similar service with ourselves; page 277desirous of speaking and exchanging the usual and customary compliments incidental to naval life, I closed with the strangers, desiring to pass within hail under the flag-ship's stern. While gaining fast, and being within musket-shot, my intentions too evident to excite a doubt, so far from any reciprocity being evinced, I saw with surprise sail making by boarding the main tack on board the flag-ship. Without a moment's delay, I hauled down my colours, and bore up on my course before the wind."

It is with regret that I mention the above transaction, and it cannot but excite the surprise of all that such a cold repulse should have come from a French commander, when the officers of that nation are usually so distinguished for their politeness and attention. It was with no small excitement I heard the report of it—that the vessels of two friendly powers, alike engaged upon an arduous and hazardous service, in so remote a region, surrounded with every danger navigators could be liable to, should meet and pass without even the exchange of common civilities, and exhibit none of the kind feelings that the situation would naturally awaken; how could the French commander know that the brig was not in distress or in want of assistance? By refusing to allow any communication with him, he not only committed a wanton violation of all proper feeling, but a breach of the courtesy due from one nation to another. It is difficult to imagine what could have prompted him to such a course.

At 6 p. m. the weather again was thick, with the wind south-easterly; field-ice again in sight; it commenced snowing, and the French ships were lost sight of. At 8 p. m. they passed in sight of large fields of ice and ice-islands; at l0h. 30m., the snow falling so dense and the weather so thick, that it was impossible to see the brig's length in any direction; she was hove-to, to await a change of weather.

The beginning of the 31st the gale continued; at 7 A. m. moderating, they again made sail to the westward; in half an hour discovered a high barrier of ice to the northward, with ice-islands to the south-ward; at 10 a. m. they found themselves in a great inlet formed by vast fields of ice, which they had entered twelve hours previously; the only opening appearing in the eastward, they were compelled to retrace their steps, which they effected at 8 p. m., passing some iceislands which they recognised as having been seen the evening before. They now found themselves out of this dangerous position, and, passing the point, kept away to the westward. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold judged it prudent to heave-to during the night, on account of the darkness.

February 1. The immense perpendicular barrier encountered yesterday was now in sight, trending as far as the eye could reach to the westward; it was of tabular form, from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and eighty feet in height, of solid compact ice, resembling a long line of coast; wind moderate from the south-east a brilliant blink extending along and elevated above the barrier. At 4 p. m. they arrived at the end of this barrier, and found it trending off to the southward, seeming as if numbers of icebergs page 278had been broken from the barrier by some mighty force, exceeding in numbers anything that had yet been seen, and extending as far south as could be distinguished, interspersed with much drift and floe-ice. On the southern horizon sixty-four ice-islands were counted, exclusive of many near them, and those that were not distinguishable from the barrier.

The current was tried here, and found setting south-east, nearly a mile an hour. Pigeons around in numbers, also whales and large flocks of penguins.

The nights now evidently lengthened, thus adding to the cares and anxieties attendant on this navigation. It was fortunate that the prevailing winds were from the south-east and south-west, or coming off the ice. If they had blown from the northward, they would have been attended with danger, and might have proved fatal to the vessel.

2nd. At meridian, in longitude 130° 36' E., and latitude 66° 24' S. They were prevented from proceeding further to the southward by the impenetrable icy barrier. At this time they had one hundred large ice-islands in sight, without counting any of the smaller bergs, which were innumerable; saw great numbers of penguins and some seals (Phoca proboscida.) The current was tried here, and found setting as yesterday, and at the same rate.

At 8 p. m. were obliged to retrace their steps to the northward, the weather becoming thick, with light snow. At eleven, constant and thick snow-storm., and unable to see any distance; the gale continuing, lay-to under a close-reefed main topsail.

3rd. A gale from south-east, heavy sea rising; occasionally passing ice-islands and field-ice. The gale continued throughout the day, but moderated towards midnight; the sea was heavy, the weather thick, and the brig completely covered with ice and snow. The barometer fell to 28.040 in. Temperature of the air 32°.

4th. Although the wind was moderate, yet it was so thick and foggy as to preclude bearing up. Towards meridian it cleared sufficiently for them to bear up and continue their examinations. To-day the current was found west-north-west, three-quarters of a mile per hour.

On the 5th they had a beautiful day—no climate or region, Lieutenant Commandant Ringgold remarks, could have produced a finer; this gave them an opportunity of thoroughly drying everything and ventilating the vessel, which was much required; standing to the northward in order to make a long board to the westward; the longitude 127° 8' E., latitude 63° 22' S.; few ice-islands in sight, and those appeared much worn, showing marks of rapid decay, with isolated pieces—some standing erect, while others were inclined, resembling fragments of columns and broken arches. This night there was a brilliant display of the aurora australis; at eleven o'clock there was perceived in the northern horizon a luminous arched cloud, at 15° of altitude, extending from north-west to north-east; the stars were partially obscured in the direction of the clouds; the pale flashes or coruscations vanishing very suddenly, were succeeded by spiral columns or streamers, converging with page 279great velocity towards the zenith; brilliant flashes would again issue forth from the remote parts of the cloud, succeeded in quick succession by perpendicular rays emanating from the cloud, having the shape of a rounded column or basaltic-shaped cylinder, which in contrast with the dark cloud showed in broad relief. As the cloud seemed to rise, the scene became a most interesting one, from the varied and oft-changing coruscations; finally the arc assumed a contracted and elliptical form, vivid streamers bursting forth as if from a corona, converging all towards the zenith, until they were lost in the coming day. The magnetic needle did not show any disturbance. The barometer stood stationary during its continuance. The sympiesometer indicated a slight fall. At the time there was no wind; the stars were brilliant, and all visible.

6th. During this day they had light winds; pursued their course to the westward; wind from the southward. In the afternoon they had light flurries of snow, and at times hail; the sea perfectly smooth, and few icebergs in sight. Longitude 125° 32' E., latitude 63° 34' S.

During the 7th, the winds variable; at eight tacked to the south-ward, in order to close in with the barrier; the wind again hauling, tacked; the number of icebergs increasing; all those seen for the few days past have appeared variously shaped, much worn and fractured, some evidently overturned, and immense arches or caves washed in them; they were totally distinct from those seen to-day.

8th. A brisk breeze from the southward, which carried them on rapidly to the westward. At meridian discovered compact fields of ice, with many stupendous ice-islands enclosed within it; the ice appeared more broken than any hitherto seen, with many fragments of icebergs resembling spires and broken columns. Altered their course to clear the barrier, and by two o'clock they had extricated themselves. Penguins, whales, brown pigeons, and the black albatross, were seen near the barrier. In the afternoon the snow fell in beautiful shining spiculæ, resembling stars, usually of six, but sometimes of twelve points; they varied from one-eighth to one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter.

The barrier was occasionally seen, and the ice-islands began again to assume a tabular form; towards the close of the day, very many whales, penguins, &c. seen. Longitude 116° E., latitude 64° 1' S.

On the 9th, fresh breezes from the south-east; at 10 a. m. made the barrier again, the weather being favourable; at 4 p. m. standing along the barrier, through drift-ice, with countless icebergs in sight; good observations were obtained, placing them in longitude 112° 41' E., and latitude 64° 55' S. At 10 P. M. some few appearances of the aurora australis in the northern sky, light coruscations streaming upwards, but quite faint, and only for a very short period; many stars and several constellations were traced without difficulty. The sea was smooth; lowered a boat to try the current, but found none. The dip was 83° 30'.

On the morning of the 10th the weather cleared off, and gave them an opportunity of ventilating the vessel; closed in with the field-ice for the purpose of obtaining a supply of water, and the page 280boats were dispatched to take in ice; the longitude was found to be 110° 34' E., latitude 65° 12' S.; the field-ice here was found to be interspersed with many large ice-islands and bergs. At five o'clock the boats returned with ice. The current was found to be setting north-north-east, five fathoms an hour; the weather continued clear and healthful; made the field-ice ahead and on the lee bow; shortly after, cleared it. The twilight in the southern horizon presented a beautiful appearance, a bright salmon colour radiating from the sun, throwing its tints over the whole sky, tinging the few cirro-stratus clouds that were in the northern quarter, and giving a soft colour to the immense ice-islands that were slumbering along the barrier, and aiding to lend to the scene its peculiar character of silence, solitude, and desolation.

The weather was clear and pleasant on the 11th, with a light wind from the south-east; many penguins and whales were seen. The icebergs were numerous, and some of great beauty, with almost regularly turned arches, and of the most beautiful aquamarine tints. Longitude was 106° 10' E., latitude 65° 28' S.

During the morning of the 12th, running along high broken fields of ice, with a light breeze from the southward; weather overcast; discovered a large piece of ice of a dark brown colour floating by, resembling a piece of dead coral; lay-to, and sent a boat to bring it alongside; obtained from it several pieces of granite and red clay which were frozen in; the ice was extremely hard and compact, composed of alternate layers of ice and snow; the strata of snow was filled with sand. The icebergs near at the time presented signs of having been detached from land, being discoloured by sand and mud. A number of white procellaria were obtained. The ice-islands again appeared in great numbers. At 3 p. m. hauled up, steering westerly into a very deep inlet or gulf, formed by extensive fields of ice. Believing from the indications of the morning that land could not be far off, in approaching the head of this inlet, several icebergs had the appearance of being in contact with the land, having assumed a dark colour from the clay and sand blown upon them; the whole group around seemed as if in the vicinage of land; sounded with two hundred fathoms; no bottom: also tried the current, but found none. Towards night, it becoming thick with snow, they continued under snug sail, intending to examine more closely the barrier and inlets in the morning.

13th At 3 a.m. they again made sail to the westward, with wind from the east; at six o'clock they had snow-squalls, rendering it unsafe to proceed and impossible to make any discovery. A few hours afterwards the weather cleared a little; made sail again to the north-west. At meridian overcast, with a stiff south-east breeze; at 1h. 30m., approached to within pistol-shot of the barrier, observing much of the dark dirty ice interspersed with the field-ice; kept along it very closely, tracing the barrier northerly; observed a large black object on the ice; shortened sail, and dispatched a boat; it proved to be a large mass of black, red, and mixed-coloured earth, resting upon a base of snow and ice, situated some fifty yards back from the margin of the field-ice, and was found to be red earth, page 281mixed with granite and sandstone. Penguins were also procured alive. At 3 p. m. they again followed the trend of the ice in a north-westerly direction; a vast field, of uninterrupted extent, seemed moving along to the westward, the large icebergs containing dark and discoloured masses, with frequent strata of the same description. They were still at a loss to account for these frequent signs of land; discoloured pieces of ice seemed mingled with the general mass: they were often seen along its margin, and appeared as though the icebergs had been turned over, presenting collections as if from the bottom. Great numbers of sperm whales were seen this day. At 8 p. m. they passed out northwardly with a light breeze and smooth, sea, through an extensive chain of icebergs, which seemed grouped off the western point of the barrier; upwards of one hundred of them were counted, several of which were very much discoloured. The sunset was brilliant, bright crimson tints illuminating the icebergs, and producing a beautiful effect.

On the 14th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, having passed a few degrees beyond his instructions, that is, having reached longitude 100° E, and latitude 64° 15' S, now commenced his return, in order to examine those places in the barrier which he had been prevented from doing on his way west.

15th. Continued their course to the eastward. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold frequently refers to the happy and cheerful condition of his crew, and their freedom from all disease.

On the 16th and 17th, they were employed in getting to the east-ward, passing many worn and shattered bergs. On the evening of the latter day, they had another exhibition of the aurora australis, extending from north-north-west to east; it was of a light straw colour, but very indistinct; the luminous bank was at an elevation of 30°. The light in the north-west was most distinct, radiating from a nucleus above the horizon towards the zenith, where it formed a beautiful halo. It was not of long duration. Many ice-islands and bergs in sight; upwards of two hundred, nearly all of a tabular form-the sides of many of them beautifully excavated by the waves, presenting innumerable gothic arches, extending often to a considerable distance into the body of the ice.

Their position on the 18th was in longitude 114° 17' E., latitude 62° 37' S. Flocks of blackbirds were very numerous, but not near enough to be taken.

On the 19th and 20th, proceeding to the eastward. On the 20th, they had but few ice-islands in sight, although they were seventy miles further south than on the 18th, when the largest number ever seen by them at one time was visible; having reached the longitude of 120° E., they again steered south, to make the barrier. The current was tried, but none found.

The 21st proved stormy, with strong breezes from the south-east, and much snow and rain, which covered the brig with ice. Fieldice was seen ahead, when they again stood to the eastward, longitude being 121° 30' E., latitude 65° 15' S. On this night they experienced a heavy gale, during which the barometer fell to 27.50 in., where it remained during part of the 22nd. The squalls page 282were very severe, accompanied with snow, sleet hail, and heavy seas; they had now reached longitude 122° E, and latitude 64° 9' S.

February 22nd, being Washington's birthday, the colours were hoisted, and the crew received an extra allowance. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold took this occasion to express to them his satisfaction for the manner in which they had performed their duties during the present cruise, and that their conduct would be duly represented to the commander of the Expedition, and the government.

On the 23rd the weather was again thick with snow and mist.

On the 24th they had reached longitude 126° E, and latitude 64° 29' S. On this day they again sighted the barrier; when, having completed what he deemed a full execution of his instructions, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold determined to put the brig's head north, which was accordingly done.

Strong winds and gales continued for the next three days. On the 27th they again found themselves in east variation, in longitude 138° E, latitude 60° 8' S. The white albatross had now again become common.

On the 29th they had a beautiful display of the aurora australis; the whole southern hemisphere was covered with arches of a beautiful straw colour, from which streamers radiated, both upwards and downwards, of almost a lustrous white; numbers of concentric arches would occasionally show themselves, of a width of a few feet, uniting to form a complete canopy for a moment, and then vanish. The arches extended from east south-east to west-north-west; the display continued for over two hours; the stars were seen above them. Previous to, and during its continuance, the thermometer indicated a change of four degrees, and the wind shifted to the southward.

On the 1st of March, in latitude 55° S., and longitude 140° E., they passed the 1ast ice-island.

On the 2nd, great numbers of pyrosoma of large size were passed.

On the 4th, some faint appearances of the aurora australis were seen.

On the 5th, the Lord Auckland Isles were descried Mr. Totten, who was officer of the deck, was accidentally knocked overboard by the trysail boom, but was fortunately rescued without injury. Im mense numbers of albatrosses were about. The aurora was again seen in the southern hemisphere.

On the 7th they anchored in the harbour of Sarah's Bosom, in twelve fathoms water. During then brief stay here, all were actively employed wooding and watering, for which this harbour affords a fine opportunity. Assistant-Surgeon Holmes made several excursions on the largest island, of which he gives the following account:

"I found it very thickly covered with trees, in its less elevated parts; as few of them were of any size, I found no small difficulty in penetrating and making my way through them; in many places it was absolutely impossible. It was only after a long and fatiguing walk that I succeeded in reaching the summit of that part of page 283the island, near which the brig was anchored, where I found the trees less numerous. A thick growth of underwood and dwarf bushes, intermixed with ferns, concealed the surface rendering it difficult to walk. Even on the places apparently most level, the ground was very unequal, and a single step would sometimes send me nearly up to the neck into a hollow filled with large fern fronds. On the highest parts, the small level spots were covered only with moss, and a description of tall grass, and in places also a kind of grain grew abundantly. The ground was dry everywhere, all the water being found in the streams, which were numerous and pure. Near the summit, the ground was perforated in all directions, probably by birds, who rear their young in these holes. Many of the birds, principally procellaria, were sitting on the ground: they made no effort to escape, but suffered themselves to be taken without any attempt at resistance.

" The forest was full of small birds, of three or four different species, which were perfectly fearless; one little fellow alighted on my cap as I was sitting under a tree, and sang long and melodiously; another, and still smaller species, of a black colour spotted with yellow, was numerous, and sang very sweetly; its notes were varied, but approximated more nearly to the song of our blackbird; occasionally a note or two resembled the lark's. Hawks, too, were numerous, and might be seen on almost all the dead trees, in pairs. Along the sea coast were to be seen the marks of their ravages upon the smaller birds. The sea birds were very numerous on the opposite side of the island, sitting upon the cliffs or hovering over the islet."

On the western side of the Auckland Island, the underbrush and young trees are exceedingly thick. Dr. Holmes remarks, that it was impossible to penetrate; that he was occupied fully an hour in making his way for a hundred yards, where, to all appearance, a human step had never before trodden. There was not a vestige of a track; old trees were strewn about irregularly, sometimes kept erect by the pressure on all sides. Some trees were seen upwards of seventy feet in height, although the generality were only from fifteen to twenty; every part of the island was densely covered with vegetation; the soil, from the decomposition of vegetable matter, has acquired considerable richness; specimens of all the plants were collected.

These islands have in many places the appearance of having been raised directly from the sea; the cliffs consisted of basalt, and were generally from fifty to ninety feet perpendicular.

The Auckland Islands are the resort of whalers, for the purpose of refitting and awaiting the whaling season, which occurs here in the months of April and May. Near the watering-place a commodious hut has been erected by a French whaler. Near by was another in ruins, and close to it the grave of a French sailor, whose name was inscribed on a wooden cross erected over it. Some attempts at forming a garden were observed at one of the points of Sarah's Bosom, and turnips, cabbage, and potatoes were growing finely, which, if left undisturbed, will soon cover this portion of the island; to these a few onions were added. Besides the birds, the only living page 284creature seen by Dr. Holmes was a small mouse: it made no attempt to get out of his way, and seemed to have no fear when taken; being consigned to a pocket, he soon contrived to escape. Many of the smaller islands of this group were visited; they closely resemble the larger one. Penguins were numerous, and of a variety of colours.

These isles have a picturesque, wild, steep, and basaltic appearance: the highest peak was estimated to be eight hundred feet; the smaller has a less elevation; the general aspect of the land resembles the region around Cape Horn. The harbour of Sarah's Bosom is not the most secure: that of Lawrie's is protected from all winds, and has a large and fine streamlet of water at its head. The rocks are covered with limpets, and small fish of many varieties are caught in quantities among the kelp. The crew enjoyed themselves on chowders and fries. No geese were seen, and the only game observed were a few gray ducks, snipes, cormorants, and the common shag. The land birds are excellent eating, especially the hawks; and on the whole, it is a very desirable place at which to refit.

On the 9th of March they had finished, and were prepared for sea, but the weather was threatening and caused them to delay. The magnetic dip was found to be 73° 47' 30" S.

A whaler, under Portuguese colours, but commanded by an Englishman, arrived, and anchored in Lawrie's Cove, to await the coming of the whales! The night proved stormy; the wind at 10h. 30m. from the north-east, blowing very heavy in puffs. Towards noon it moderated, and at 2 p.m. they got under way, with a light breeze from the north-west, and stood to sea.

The latitude of Sarah's Bosom is 50° 38' S.; the longitude 165° 28' E.

On the 12th no current was found; latitude 49° 27' S., longitude 168° 13' E. The weather experienced from this port to New Zealand was very similar to that in passing from Cape Horn to Valparaiso: northerly winds with mist and fog prevailing, with a heavy sea. On the 17th they fell in with the whale-ship Mary and Martha, of Plymouth, Coffin, master, who informed them that there were at least one hundred whale ships cruising in the neighbouring seas; of these, several were seen. This will give some idea of the number of vessels employed, and how great a capital is engaged in this business.

On the 18th they had a gale from north-north-west, which lasted through the day, moderating at sunset. They were in latitude 43° 2' S., longitude by chronometer, 175° 24' E. The barometer sank to 29.30 in. A current was experienced setting north-west, in the direction of Cook's Straits.

On the 20th, in latitude 41° S., longitude 177° E., the current was found setting north-east by north, half a mile per hour. On the 22nd and 23rd they experienced a heavy gale from the south-east, when they were in longitude 179° 35' E., and latitude 37° 52' S.; during the morning of the latter day the wind hauled to the south-south-west; the barometer at 3 a.m., stood at 29.10 in.; the weather cleared, with the wind at south-west.

On the 26th they reached and anchored in the river Kawa-Kawa, in the Bay of Islands, off the American Consul's, about three miles page 285above its mouth. Many vessels were passed lying at anchor off the town of Kororarika. Here they found the tender Flying-Fish; all well.

The cruise of the latter will now be taken up from the 1st of January, on which day she parted company with the Vincennes, in consequence of having carried away a gaff, and being obliged to shorten sail, in doing which their jib-stay got adrift, and carried away the squaresail-yard before it could be secured. The vessel was in the meantime exposed to a heavy sea beating over her, and at midnight they were compelled to heave-to. They then steered for the first rendezvous, Macquarie Island, where they arrived on the 10th, in the afternoon, and saw the Peacock, but it becoming thick, they were not seen by that ship.

On the 11th, Acting-Master Sinclair landed for the purpose of placing a signal on the island, agreeably to instructions. The landing was found difficult and dangerous, and their description of the island agrees with that heretofore given of it from the notes of Mr. Eld, as being dreary and inhospitable. Large numbers of penguins, and small green and yellow parroquets were seen. Near where they landed they saw about twenty huge sea-elephants basking on the rocks, which did not seem to heed them; when disturbed, they would only throw their carcases over, open their mouths, utter a loud growl, and go to sleep again; no measurement was taken of them, and one which was killed, could not be taken in the boat. The soil was soft and spongy, yielding to the pressure of the feet. The staff and signal, being planted, they returned on board, and now passed the surf without difficulty.

On the 12th, they put away for the next rendezvous, Emerald Isle. They reached its position on the 14th, but nothing was seen of it; the weather was thick.

On the 16th, they kept off to the southward, with the wind from the south-west, accompanied with sleet and snow. In latitude 61° S., longitude 164° E., they saw the first ice. The next day, the 19th of January, the water was very much discoloured; got a cast of the lead in ninety fathoms; no bottom: passed a number of icebergs that were all flat on the top, with perpendicular sides.

On the 21st they made the icy barrier, in longitude 159° 36' E., and latitude 65° 20' S. From the number of icebergs and the frequency of snow-squalls, they found great danger in running through them, although the water was quite smooth.

On the 22nd the weather proved pleasant, and they followed the trend of the ice. The ice-islands still showed flat tops and perpendicular sides, and there were a number of birds, seals, and whales around them; they were at noon in longitude 158° 27' E. On this day they were close by an iceberg, from the main body of which a large mass fell with a noise like thunder; the snow flying into the air resembled smoke, and the swell produced by the immersion of the fragment caused the schooner to roll water in on her deck. A number of large penguins were in sight, differing from any they had heretofore seen.

On the 23rd the weather was pleasant, and they had light winds from the southward and westward. Longitude 157° 49' E., latitude page 28665° 58' S. They continued coasting along the ice in search of an opening. At 8 p.m. they discovered several dark spots, which had the appearance of rocks, and on approaching the margin of the ice, they could make them out to be such with their glasses, but they were situated too far within the field-ice for a boat to get near them. This day being fine, an opportunity was afforded of drying the deck and clothes, and searing the seams with a hot iron. The vessel had been very wet, and her decks leaked badly, notwith-standing the thorough caulking and repairs she had received at Sydney: the crew were almost constantly wet, below as well as above deck.

On the 24th they were obliged to steer again to the northward, in consequence of making the barrier ahead. Sea-lions were seen on the ice. They continued to follow the barrier, which trended north-north-east; the compasses were very sluggish. On the 26th and 27th the weather became bad, with the wind to the northward and westward, accompanied by a heavy fall of snow: in the evening of the latter day, the wind hauled to the southward and west-ward, and brought clear weather. The 28th passed with clear weather, and several seals were about them.

The 29th was thick and snowy, with a north-east wind; passed through quantities of drift-ice, and by 2h. 30m. it had become so thick as to render a continuance of their course perilous; at 7 p.m. they again made the solid barrier, when it was blowing a stiff gale; at 9h. 30m. discovered the ice ahead, and on both beams; wore round to the northward and eastward, to retrace their steps; it was not long before they discovered a chain of ice-islands ahead, apparently connected by solid ice; about midnight a passage was discovered between two icebergs, through which they passed. It was now blowing a heavy gale, and having gained the open sea, they attempted to reef the foresail, but were unequal to the task, (four of the men being on the sick-list,) and were compelled to lay-to under the whole sail, which caused the vessel to labour very much, as well as to leak a great deal, and endangered her safety by making her fly into the wind, and get a stern-board in a high sea.

On the 30th, in the morning, the gale abated, and the weather became more pleasant than they had experienced for a number of days. They had reached the longitude of 150° 16' E., latitude 65° 15' S. On this day they again passed into blue water.

3ist January was thick with snow; a north wind and heavy sea.

1st of February, they were running among ice, until they sighted the barrier, when they again hauled to the northward; a moderate gale blowing, with thick weather and a heavy sea, they were obliged to heave-to.

On the 2nd and 3rd, they were coasting the ice. In the afternoon of the 3rd they again had bad weather, which made it necessary to bring-to; surrounded by bergs and drift-ice; the latter, in case of striking, would have seriously injured the tender. The icebergs seen on these days had the appearance of recent formation; the tops flat, the sides perpendicular, and not worn by the action of the sea.

page 287

On the 4th, the gale continued, and the sea had risen to an extraordinary height; the weather was so thick that an iceberg could not be seen further than twice the length of the vessel. The tender was under too much sail, which caused her to labour dreadfully, in consequence of which she leaked in such a manner as to make it necessary to keep the pumps going almost continually. When they were stopped for a short time to rest the men, the water increased so as to reach the cabin-floor; the water came through the seams forward in such quantities as to wet every bed and article of clothing on the berth-deck. This was a great addition to the labour and discomfort of the crew, now reduced by sickness to four men, and the strength of these much impaired by previous sickness, excessive labour, and almost constant exposure. To relieve their situation as much as possible, Lieutenant Pinkney ordered them to make use of the cabin in common with the officers. To ease the pitching of the vessel, a quantity of coal was shifted aft; but although this was a partial relief, yet as she had too much sail on her, which they had been unable to reduce at the commencement of the gale, it was not sufficient to make her easy.

On the 5th, the gale began to abate, when the crew, through one of their number, presented a communication to Lieutenant Pinkney of which the following is a copy:

(Copy.)

We, the undersigned, the crew of the Schooner Flying-Fish, wish to let you know that we are in a most deplorable condition: the bed-clothes are all wet; we have no place to lie down in; we have not had a dry stitch of clothes for seven days; four of our number are very sick; and we, the few remaining number, can hold out no longer; we hope you will take it into consideration, and relieve us from what must terminate in our death.

(Signed) A. Murray. Thomas Darling.
John Anderson. James Daniels.
F. Beale. Joseph.
James Darling. John H. Weaver.

To Lieutenant Pinkney,
U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

On the receipt of this appeal, Lieutenant Pinkney addressed an order to the officers, a copy of which follows:

U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish,
Lat. 66° S., long. 143° E., Feb. 5th, 1840.

Gentlemen—You will furnish me with your opinion, and the reasons which induced that opinion of the propriety of any longer endeavouring to accomplish that part of the accompanying order, which refers to penetrating to the south.

I am, respectfully, &c.,

R. F. Pinkney,

Lieutenant-Commandant.

To Acting Master George T. Sinclair.
Passed Midshipman William May. Passed Midshipman George W. Harrison.

page 288

(Copy of Reply.)

U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish,
Lat. 66° S., long. 143° E., Feb. 5th, 1840.

Sir—Agreeably to your order of this date, we, the undersigned officers, have to express our most thorough conviction, that the condition of this vessel's crew, and the vessel, loudly demand an immediate return to milder latitudes.

The causes of this opinion are these: that the crew of this vessel, consisting of fifteen persons (four officers and eleven men), even if well, are entirely inadequate to her safe management; but five are now confined to sick beds (one a servant), one of them is in a very critical state of health, and three others dragging out upon duty, complaining, and under medical treatment. Out of four, nominally performing duty, one of them, the cook, is totally unfit to a turn at the helm, and another cannot be trusted without the closest watching; indeed, so deficient in force are we, that in the gale of yesterday and the day before, and on a previous occasion, when it became extremely necessary to reef the foresail, the men were so deficient, in physical strength as to make it impossible to accomplish it.

The crew's apartment is in a most deplorable state, leaking like a sieve, all their beds being wet, their clothes on them being so, even to their under flannels, for one week, and without a dry change on hand, and no prospect of having one; so miserable is their situation, that at length you have been compelled to allot them the cabin, in common with us, for the purpose of cooking, eating, and sleeping.

Furthermore, sir, in the gale now abating, we find that nearly constant application to the pump is barely sufficient to keep the water from flooding the cabin floor, evidently having started a leak; notwithstanding this, the condition of the crew is more imperative, much more so in this, our recommendation, for a return to the northward; in fact, we would cheerfully continue to the southward, if we had a proper crew.

Lastly, understanding that the crew, through one of their body, have waited upon you, and, by written application, also stated their inability to live through these hardships much longer, and begging your return.

We are respectfully, your obedient servants,

(Signed) George T. Sinclair,

Acting Master.

William May,
George W. Harrison,

Passed Midshipmen.

Lieutenant-Commandant R. F. Pinkney,
Commanding U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

Lieutenant Pinkney, in accordance with this opinion, and his own conviction of the necessity of an immediate return to milder latitudes, as the only means of restoring the sick, and preserving those on duty, who were then incapable of managing the vessel without the assistance of the officers, deemed it his duty to steer for the north, which he accordingly did.

page 289

The 6th and 7th continued thick, with occasional squalls. On the 8th, the weather again broke up, when they had several hours of sunshine, which proved of great benefit to the sick. Lieutenant Pinkney was enabled to come again on deck, who had scarcely been able to quit his berth since leaving Macquarie Island, from sickness. They had reached the longitude of 139° 45' E., latitude 61° S. At 11. p.m. the aurora was seen; it was first visible in the south-east quarter, in spots resembling pale moonlight, extending to the zenith, from whence it diverged in rays, some of which reached the horizon, but the greatest number terminated at an altitude of twenty-five or thirty degrees. On the 9th, the aurora was also seen in the west, in vertical rays of pale yellow light, commencing about five degrees above the horizon, and extending to an altitude of thirty degrees. After a short time it disappeared, and was again seen in the zenith, radiating in lines to the north-east and west, reaching to within ten degrees of the horizon. The wind was from the southward. Temperature 34°. The following five days they had thick weather, and nothing occurred until the evening of the 14th, when they again had a display of the aurora; the coruscations were frequent and brilliant, but did not exhibit any different form, until after midnight, when it appeared in arches, reaching nearly to the horizon, at from 45° to 73° of altitude, and composed of short perpendicular lines, blending at one moment into a sheet of misty light, and hen breaking out into brighter lines, some of which were broad. It then again shifted to the zenith, with radiations extending in every direction, in straight and wavy lines. The changes were incessant, but not shooting.

On the morning of the 15th, they again had a display of the aurora. It first appeared in the southern heavens, at an altitude of 45°, flashing to the zenith, where it disappeared. After midnight it was again visible in the southern quarter, at about 30° of altitude. It finally centered in a bright spot, which changed into a crescent, with the rounded side to the northward. From this, feathery edged rays of a pale orange colour branched off in every direction, over which the prismatic colours seemed to flit in rapid succession. The rays would sometimes fold into one another like a fan, and reach the horizon in one direction, while in another they were drawn up to the zenith, again to burst forth in repetitions, until lost in day-light. On the 19th, the aurora again appeared in an arch of 15° altitude.

They passed the last icebergs in latitude 55° 30' S., longitude 145° 30' E.

On the 22nd they spoke a French whaler from Hobart Town, who expressed much surprise at finding so small a vessel in such high latitudes. The captain sent a boat on board, and invited them to "soup" with him.

On the 23rd they made the southern island of New Zealand. On. the 1st of March they experienced a most violent gale. The wind about noon on the 29th of February hauled to the southward and eastward, and by midnight it blew a gale, hauling to the eastward, until about 8 p.m., when its violence moderated. Their latitude was page 29040° S., longitude 178° 30' E. For several days previous to this, a noise was heard about the heel of the main-mast; an examination was had, and the conclusion arrived at that it worked in the step, the wedges in the partners having been driven without obviating it. On the 9th of March they arrived at the Bay of Islands, where they found the gentlemen who had gone there to pursue their researches in natural history waiting our arrival.

The Vincennes was left on the 21st of February on her way north. On the night of 22nd, we had a beautiful and novel appearance of the aurora australis.

Black clouds were passing rapidly over the sky; an orange glow of light seemed to cover the heavens, emanating from a point, over which flitted rays of the prismatic colours, directed towards the horizon, lighting up both edges of the clouds, and throwing them into bold relief. The rays seemed to dart simultaneously towards the horizon, on reaching which they would seem to be gathered, as if by magic, towards the centre, and slowly vanish, to appear again and fold up.

Strong gales from the west-north-west with snow-squalls continued until the 27th, with thick misty weather. Numerous ice-islands were passed during this interval. The last iceberg seen, was in the latitude of 53° S., and longitude 120° 25' E.; the temperature of the water was 46°.

On the 28th, we found our variation 1° easterly, in the longitude of 131° 50' E., latitude 50° 30' S.; and in attempting to get a deep-sea sounding of eight hundred and fifty fathoms, we lost our Six's thermometer by the wire parting. The sea was a deep blue; the temperature 45°. We found a current setting west-north-west three-fourths of a knot per hour. The white object was seen at the depth of fifteen fathoms.

On the 1st of March we had reached the latitude of the Royal Company's Isles, and I continued to run in nearly the same parallel for eight degrees of longitude, without seeing any signs of the supposed land. Having sailed far to the eastward of their supposed position, I again hauled to the northward to proceed to Hobart Town, Van Diemen's Land, to fill up our water. We now saw a sail, the first during sixty days, which made us feel as if we were returning to a habitable part of the globe. This night we had a brilliant display of the aurora australis, resembling that seen on the 9th of February, with this difference, that it was seen to the south-ward, extending from east-south-east to west-south-west.

On the 5th of March the wind headed us off our course to Hobart Town; I then determined to proceed direct to Sydney, and thus be enabled to communicate as speedily as possible with the United States. The consideration of getting intelligence, respecting the other vessels, also led to this determination. I felt, in truth, forebodings that all was not well, from not having met any of the vessels at the appointed rendezvous, along the icy barrier; and I was anxious for their safety, after the severe gale of the 28th of January.

Having reached a lower latitude, the weather had now become page 291pleasant, and we could dispense with our winter clothing—a relief which the whole of the crew seemed to enjoy. It was the reverse with me; I had a feeling of exhaustion and lassitude that I could not account for, and the least exertion caused me much fatigue.

On the 9th we reached the latitude of Cape Howe, and were seventy miles to the eastward of it. We there experienced a rise in the temperature of the water: six degrees in less than an hour.

On the 10th, when off Cape Jervis, and about forty miles to the eastward of it, we again changed the temperature from 68° to 73°, as we steered in for the land to the northward, but on hauling to the eastward it again fell to 68°. A strong southerly current has been long known to exist along this coast; and I feel well satisfied that the thermometer is a good guide in making the passage from the southward. The coasting vessels, as I was informed at Sydney, had frequently made long passages from Van Diemen's Land and South Australia, which I have but little doubt is owing to the prevalence of this minor gulf stream, the position of which the use of the thermometer will clearly indicate. This current will be noticed particularly in the chapter on currents; its width no doubt varies with the season.

On the 11th of March, at noon, we passed the Heads of Port Jackson, and took a pilot. We were, as a body, in better condition than when we left Sydney three months before.

In an hour afterwards we dropped our anchor in Farm Cove off Fort Macquarie. Our reception was flattering; scarcely was our anchor well down before many of our friends came on board to bid us welcome; and we felt tenfold that kind hospitality which on our former visit we had first become acquainted with. They appeared to rejoice in our success as if we had been their countrymen.

During our absence from Sydney, many improvements had taken place. The storehouses for the deposit of grain on an island in the harbour were in rapid progress; the new government-house nearly completed, and the foundation of an exchange laid; besides this, many improvements in town that were then in progress had been completed; and the rapidity with which these works had been accomplished, strongly reminded me of similar operations at home.

The country was looking quite green and pretty; indeed, the sail up the noble harbour was truly beautiful; it wore quite a different face from its former parched appearance, the rains having been abundant during our absence.

Observations were obtained for the rates of our chronometers, and the magnetic needles again experimented with.

On overhauling my ship, the fore-topmast was found to be slightly sprung.

It was with great pleasure I learned the safety of the Peacock; for that vessel had occupied my thoughts more than the others, on account of the condition in which she left Sydney. All on board of her were well, and the vessel was undergoing repairs in Mossman's Cove, one of the many which this harbour forms. These coves may be termed wet-docks, affording as they do every facility for the repair of vessels of any size. They are more like artificial than page 292natural basins, and are secure against any wind. There is no port in the world that offers so many natural advantages as Port Jackson, for a great naval power. We had many things to relate to each other; among others, the particulars of the accident that befel the Peacock, that has already been noticed. The return of that vessel to this port now claims our attention.

On the 28th of January, their sick-list had increased to thirteen, more in consequence of the fatigue the men had undergone than from any disease.

On the 29th, they experienced strong gales from the north-west, which continued to increase until midnight, after which the weather moderated. The ship during this gale was in latitude 61° 20' S., and longitude 154° 9' E. This gale is remarkable, in consequence of its blowing in a contrary direction to that which the Vincennes experienced on the same day; while the former had it from the north-west, the latter had it from south-east. Their distance apart was four hundred and fifty miles, in a north-east direction.

On the 1st of February, the weather was stormy until towards evening, when it moderated and cleared off, with the wind to the north-west, and gave them a view of the aurora australis lighting up the southern portion of the horizon. Rays were thrown out in different directions, some reaching an altitude of 30°, others of 40°, whilst others again almost spanned the heavens.

On the 2nd they had another display of the aurora, but contrary to that of the previous day, it was first seen at an altitude of 70°, diverging towards the horizon, from east-south-east to the south-west by west, before it disappeared. The point from which the rays diverged reached the zenith.

On the 4th they made Macquarie Island, and shortly after passing it, experienced another gale from north-west to south-west, which caused them much anxiety for their rudder, which thus far had answered well, although great attention was necessary to prevent strain upon it. Strong gales yet continued. On the 5th, they had a faint display of the aurora.

On the 7th of February, the weather had become less boisterous, and having reached latitude 49° S., longitude 155° 23' E., the aurora australis again appeared. It was first seen in the north, and gradually spread its coruscations over the whole heavens; the rays and beams of light radiating from nearly all points of the horizon to the zenith, where their distinctive outlines were lost in a bright glow of light, which was encircled by successive flashes, resembling those of heat lightning on a sultry summer night; these formed a luminous arc in the southern sky, about 20° in altitude from the upper part of which rays were continually flashing towards the zenith; light showers of rain finally shut it out from view. On the same night, between one and three, the aurora burst out from the south-western horizon, streaming up and concentrating in the zenith, and attended with quick flashes of every variety of tint. The wind was moderate from the south-west, and a squall of hail passed at the time. In latitude 47° S. they first encountered phosphorescence in the water. On the 17th they made the land of New South page 293Wales, and continued to experience a variety of weather until the 21st, when they arrived off and anchored within, the Heads of Port Jackson.

The next day they proceeded up the harbour, and anchored off Sydney Cove. The ship was much shattered, but her officers and crew all in good health. Here they were kindly received, and no time was lost in proceeding to make the necessary repairs. The collector was kind enough to give them permission to land every thing that might be necessary, when and where they pleased. The powder and fireworks were received into the public magazine, and when called for were politely sent in a government boat, free of expense. The railway for merchant vessels was found too light to. trust the Peacock upon it; Mossman's Cove, on the north shore, was then resorted to, not only as a convenient place for making the necessary repairs, but as affording more security for the crew against the crimps and rum shops.

The day after my arrival, I visited the Peacock, in order to examine into her condition, and could not withhold my astonishment that she-had been able, after undergoing such damage, to reach a distant port. The visible injuries have already been stated, in speaking of her accident. On their arrival at Sydney, it was found that her stem had been chafed to within one and a half inches of her wood ends, and much strained throughout. After a full examination of the circumstances, I feel it a duty I owe to Captain Hudson, as well as to his officers and crew, to state that I am well satisfied, that his coolness, decision, and seamanship, with the good conduct of his officers and men in the perilous situation in which they were placed, are worthy of the highest encomiums. The preservation of the ship and crew, and her subsequent navigation to a distant port, reflect the highest credit upon her commander and upon the service to which he belongs.

Sydney was now much crowded with, people, and several balls were given, to which we had the honour of an invitation. That of the St. Patrick Society was attended by the chief people in the neighbourhood of Sydney, including the governor and most of the officers of the crown. It was given in the new court-house, and was a handsome and well-conducted entertainment.

I was struck with the beauty and general appearance of the ladies, though I was informed that many of the belles were absent. The style of the party was neither English nor American, but something between the two. I scarcely need remark that we were all much gratified and pleased. The hospitality and kindness shown us were of that kind that made us feel truly welcome.

Our last week at Sydney was spent in a round of pleasure and the attention we met with being entirely unexpected, was doubly gratifying to us.