page 251

Chapter XVIII.
Antarctic Cruise—(continued).

Esuming the narrative of the disaster sustained by the Peacock, with which the preceding chapter closes, the Vincennes and. Porpoise were left on the 22nd of January.

On that day the Vincennes passed the place through which the Peacock entered, as has been related, on the 23rd, and found no opening. To judge from, the manner in which the ice moved during the time the Peacock was enclosed in it, I am inclined to ascribe the alternate opening and closing of the passage into the bay, to a tide setting along this coast. In support of this opinion it is sufficient to state, that the strength of the winds experienced on board that vessel was at no time sufficient to account for the manner in which the ice was found to move.

About thirty miles to the westward of this point, the Vincennes passed a remarkable collection of tabular icebergs, for whose existence I can account in no other manner than by supposing them to be attached to a rocky islet, which formed a nucleus to which they adhered. It was quite obvious that they had not been formed in the place where they were seen, and must, therefore, have grounded, after being adrift.

On the 23rd of January, after passing around this group of ice-page 252bergs, the sea was found comparatively clear, and a large open space showed itself to the southward. Into this space the course of the Vincennes was immediately directed. While thus steering to the south, the appearance of land was observed on either hand, both to the eastward and westward.

Pursuing this course, we by midnight reached the solid barrier, and all approach to the land on the east and west was entirely cut off by the close packing of the icebergs. I was, therefore, reluctantly compelled to return, not a little vexed that we were again foiled in our endeavour to reach the antarctic continent. This was a deep indentation in the coast, about twenty-five miles wide; we explored it to the depth of about fifteen miles, and did not reach its termination. This bay I have called Disappointment Bay: it is in latitude 67° 4' 30" S., longitude 147° 30' E. The weather was remarkably fine, with a bracing air: the thermometer in the air 22°, in the water 31°.

The next day, 24th, we stood out of the bay, and continued our course to the westward. About noon, to my surpise, I learned that one of the officers, Lieutenant Underwood, had marked on the logslate that there was an opening of clear water, subtending three points of the compass, at the bottom of Disappointment Bay. Though confident that this was not the fact, in order to put this matter at rest, I at once determined to return, although forty miles distant, and ordered the ship about, to refute the assertion by the officer's own testimony. This was most effectually done the next morning, 25th, when the ship reached the identical spot, and all were fully convinced that no opening existed. The whole bay was enclosed by a firm barrier of ice, from north-north-west to east-north-east.

The weather proved delightful, with light airs from the south-ward, and I determined to take this opportunity to fill up the water-tanks with ice. The ship was hove-to, a hawser got in readiness, the boats lowered, and brought alongside of an iceberg well adapted to our purpose.

The same opportunity was also taken to make the magnetic observations on the ice, and to try the local attraction of the ship.

Many birds were seen about the ship, of which we were fortunate in obtaining specimens. The day was remarkably clear, and the same appearance of land was seen that had been witnessed on the 24th. We filled nineteen of our tanks with ice, after having allowed it to remain for some time on deck for the salt water to drain off in part, and it proved very potable.

At about 5 p.m., we had completed our required store of ice, and cast off, making sail to the northward.

In order that no further mistakes should take place as to the openings being passed, I issued an order, directing the officer of the deck, on being relieved, to go to the mast-head, and report to me the exact situation of the ice; and this was continued during the remainder of our cruise among it.

In threading our way through the many icebergs, it occurred to me that they might be considered as islands, and a rough survey page 253made of them, by taking their bearings at certain periods, and making diagrams of their positions. This was accordingly done, and every few hours they were inserted on the chart which I was constructing in my progress.

This I found to be very useful, and it gave me confidence in proceeding, for I had a tolerable chart to retreat by in case of need, at least for a few hours, during which time I had reason to believe that there was not much probability of the icebergs changing their relative positions.

The dip observed on the ice was 87° 30', and the variation 12° 46' easterly. The compasses were found to be very sluggish, having but little horizontal directive force.

About half an hour after we cast off from the iceberg, a thick snow-storm came up, with the wind from the south-east. Although there were very many ice-islands around us, on our way out, I felt that I understood the ground well, having passed over it twice, and knowing I had a space of a few miles, only thinly sprinkled with icebergs, I hove-to with shortened sail. This was the first south-east wind we had had since being on this coast. I had been disappointed in not finding it from that quarter before; for I had been informed, by those who had navigated in high southern latitudes, that south-east would be the prevailing wind, and would be attended with fine weather. Now, however, with a fair wind, I was unable to run, for the weather was unfavourable.

At 6 a.m., on the 26th, we again made sail, and at 8 a.m., we discovered the Porpoise, to whom we made signals to come within hail. We found them all well, and compared chronometers.

As it still blew fresh from the south-east, and the weather became a little more clear, we both bore away, running through much driftice, at the rate of nine knots an hour. We had the barrier in sight; it was, however, too thick to see much beyond it. Sailing in this way I felt to be extremely hazardous; but our time was so short for the examination of this icy coast, that while the barrier was to be seen, I deemed it my duty to proceed. We fortunately, by good look-outs, and carefully conning the ship, were enabled to avoid any heavy thumps.

On the 27th, we again had the wind from south-south-west. The floe-ice had become so thick, that we found it impossible to get through it in the direction I wished to go, and we were compelled to pass round it. The Porpoise was in sight until noon. The weather proved beautifully clear. A long range of tabular icebergs was in sight to the southward, indicating, as I have before observed, that the coast was near. I passed through these, losing sight of the Porpoise to the north-west about noon, when we were in longitude 142° 40' E., latitude 65° 54' 21" S., variation 5° 8' easterly.

On the 28th, I found myself completely surrounded by the tabular icebergs, through which we continued to pass. Towards midnight the wind shifted to the south-east, and enabled me to haul more to the southward. At 9½ a.m. we had another sight of the land ahead, and every prospect of nearing it, with a fine breeze. The sight of the icebergs around us, all of large dimensions, was beautiful. The page 254greatest number in sight at one time was noted, and found to be more than a hundred, varying from a quarter of a mile to three miles in length. We took the most open route, and by eleven o'clock had run upwards of forty miles through them. We had the land now in plain view, but the weather soon began to thicken and the breeze to freshen. At noon it was so thick that everything was hidden, and no observation was obtained. The ship was hove-to, but shortly after again put under way, making several tacks to keep my position, which I felt was becoming a critical one, in case a gale should ensue. I therefore looked carefully over my chart, and was surprised at the vast number of icebergs that appeared on it. At 2 p.m. the barometer began, to fall, and the weather to change for the worse. At 5 p.m. a gale was evidently coming on, so we took three reefs in the topsails. It appeared now that certain wreck would ensue, should we remain where we were; and after much consideration, I made up my mind to retrace my way, and seek the open space forty miles distant, taking for a landmark a remarkable berg that had been the last entered on the chart, and which would be a guide to my course out. I therefore stood for its position. The weather was so thick, that it was necessary to run close to it, to be quite sure of recognising it, for on this seemed to depend our safety. About the estimated time we would take to pass over the distance, an iceberg was made (we were within one thousand feet of it) which, at first view, I felt confident was the one sought, but was not altogether satisfied afterwards. I therefore again consulted my chart, and became more doubtful of it. Just at that moment I was called on deck by an officer, who informed me that there were icebergs a short distance ahead. Such proved to be the case; our path was beset with them, and it was evident we could not regain our route. To return was worse, so having but little choice left, I determined to keep on. To encounter these icebergs so soon after seeing the other, was in some respects satisfactory, for it removed all doubts, and showed me that we were not near the track by which we entered. Nothing, therefore, was to be done but to keep a good look-out, and the ship under sufficient way to steer well. My safest plan was to keep as near our former track as possible, believing it to be most free of these masses.

At 8 p.m. it began to blow very hard, with a violent snow-storm, circumscribing our view, and rendering it impossible to see more than two ship's lengths ahead. The cold was severe, and every spray that touched the ship was immediately converted into ice. At 9 p.m., the barometer still falling and the gale increasing, we reduced sail to close-reefed fore and main-topsails, reefed foresail and trysails, under which we passed numerous icebergs, some to windward, and some to leeward of us. At 10h. 30m., we found ourselves thickly beset with them, and had many narrow escapes; the excitement became intense; it required a constant change of helm to avoid those close aboard; and we were compelled to press the ship with canvass in order to escape them, by keeping her to windward. We thus passed close along their weather sides, and distinctly heard the roar of the surf dashing against them. We had, from time to time, glimpses of page 255their obscure outline, appearing as though immediately above us. After many escapes, I found the ship so covered with ice, and the watch so powerless in managing her, that a little after midnight, on the 29th, I had all hands called. Scarcely had they been reported on deck, when it was made known to me that the gunner, Mr. Williamson, had fallen, broken Ms ribs, and otherwise injured himself on the icy deck.

The gale at this moment was awful. We found we were passing large masses of drift ice, and ice-islands became more numerous. At a little after one o'clock it was terrific, and the sea was now so heavy that I was obliged to reduce sail still further; the fore and main topsails were clewed up; the former was furled, but the latter being a new sail, much difficulty was found in securing it.

A seaman, by the name of Brooks, in endeavouring to execute the order to furl, got on the 1ee yard-arm, and the sail having blown over the yard, prevented his return. Not being aware of his position until it was reported to me from the forecastle, he remained there some time. On my seeing him he appeared stiff, and clinging to the yard and lift. Spilling-lines were at once rove, and an officer with several men sent aloft to rescue him, which they succeeded in doing by passing a bowline around his body and dragging him into the top. He was almost frozen to death. Several of the best men were completely exhausted with cold, fatigue, and excitement, and were sent below. This added to our anxieties, and but little hope remained to me of escaping; I felt that neither prudence nor foresight could avail in protecting the ship and crew. All that could be done was to be prepared for any emergency, by keeping every one at his station.

We were swiftly dashing on, for I felt it necessary to keep the ship under rapid way through the water, to enable her to steer and work quickly. Suddenly many voices cried out, "Ice ahead!" then, "On the weather bow!" and again, "On the 1ee bow and abeam!" All hope of escape seemed in a moment to vanish; return we could not, as large ice-islands had just been passed to leeward: so we dashed on, expecting every moment the crash. The ship, in an instant, from having her 1ee guns under water, rose upright; and so close were we passing to leeward of one of these huge islands, that our trysails were almost thrown aback by the eddy wind. The helm was put up to pay the ship of, but the proximity of those under our 1ee bade me keep my course. All was now still except the distant roar of the wild storm, that was raging behind, before, and above us; the sea was in great agitation, and both officers and men were in the highest degree excited. The ship continued her way, and as we proceeded, a glimmering of hope arose, for we accidentally had hit upon a clear passage between two large ice-islands, which in fine weather we should not dare to have ventured through. The suspense endured while making our way between them was intense, but of short duration; and my spirits rose as I heard the whistling of the gale grow louder and louder before us, as we emerged from the passage. We had escaped an awful death, and were again tempest-tost.

page 256

We encountered many similar dangers that night. At half-past 4 a.m., I found we had reached the small open space laid down on my chart, and at five o'clock I hove-to the ship. I had been under intense excitement, and had not been off the deck for nine hours, and was now thankful to the Providence that had guided, watched over, and preserved us. Until 7 a.m. all hands were on deck, when there was some appearance of the weather moderating, and they were piped down.

This gale was from the south-east, from which quarter it blew during the whole of its strength; and when it began to moderate, the wind veered to the southward. By noon we felt satisfied that the gale was over, and that we had escaped, although it was difficult to realise a sense of security when the perils we had just passed through were so fresh in our minds, and others still impending. Towards four o'clock it cleared off, and we saw but few icebergs near us. Our longitude was found to be 140° E., latitude 63° 30' S., and I again made sail for the ice to the south, to pass over the very route we had just traversed through so many perils.

The wind had now hauled to the south-west. At 6 p.m., we again began to enter among ice-islands. The weather appeared settled; but I had so often been deceived by its fickleness, that I felt no reliance ought to be put in its continuance. A powerful inducement was held out to us, in the prospect of getting close enough to effect a landing; and this rendered us insensible to the dangers.

On the morning of the 30th the sun rose in great brilliancy, and the scene was altogether unlike that we had passed through only twenty-four hours before. All was now quiet; a brisk breeze blew from the eastward, all sail was set, and there was every prospect that we might accomplish our object; for the land was in sight, and the icebergs seemed floating in quiet. We wound our way through them in a sea so smooth that a yawl might have passed over it in safety. No straight line could have been drawn from us in any direction, that would not have cut a dozen icebergs in the same number of miles, and the wondering exclamations of the officers and crew were oft repeated—"How could we have passed through them unharmed?" and "What a lucky ship!" At eight o'clock, we had reached the icy barrier, and hove-to close to it. It was tantalising, with the land in sight, to be again and again blocked out. Open water was seen near the land to the southwest of us, and a tortuous channel through the broken ice to leeward, apparently leading to it. All sail was immediately crowded; we passed rapidly through, and found ourselves again in clear water, which reached to the shores; the barrier extending in a line with our course, about two miles to windward, and a clear channel to the north-west, about two miles wide, as far as the eye could reach. Seeing this, I remarked to one of the officers that it would have been a good place to drift in during the last gale—little thinking that in a few short hours it would serve us for that purpose in still greater need. A brisk gale ensued, and the ship ran at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour; page 257one reef was taken in the topsails, and we stood directly in for the most southerly part of the bay.

This bay was formed partly by rocks and partly by ice-islands. The latter were aground, and on the western side of the bay extended about five miles to the northward of our position.

While we stood on in this direction the gale increased, and our room became so circumscribed that we had not time on any one tack to reduce our canvass, before it became necessary to go about. In this way we approached within half a mile of the dark volcanic rocks, which appeared on both sides of us, and saw the land gradually rising beyond the ice to the height of three thousand feet, and entirely covered with snow. It could be distinctly seen extending to the east and west of our position fully sixty miles. I make this bay in longitude 140° 2' 30" E., latitude 66° 45' S.; and, now that all were convinced of its existence, I gave the land the name of the Antarctic Continent. Some of the officers pointed out the appearance of smoke, as if from a volcano, but I was of opinion that this was nothing but the snow-drift, caused by the heavy squalls. There was too much wind at this time to tack; I therefore had recourse to luffing the vessel up in the wind, and wore her short round on her heel. At the same time we sounded, and found a hard bottom at the depth of no more than thirty fathoms. I have called this bay Piner's Bay, after the signal quarter-master of that name. It was impossible to lower a boat, or to remain longer; indeed, I felt it imperative on me to clear its confined space before the floating ice might close it up.

At 10h. 30m. we had gone round, and in an hour more we cleared the bay. At noon the wind had increased to a gale, and by one o'clock, P.M., we were reduced to storm-sails, with our top-gallant yards on deck. The barometer had again declined rapidly, proving a true indicator, but giving little or no warning. To run the gauntlet again among the icebergs was out of the question, for a large quantity of field-ice would have to be passed through, which must have done us considerable damage, if it did not entirely disable us. The clear space we occupied was retained until five or six o'clock, when I found the floe-ice was coming down upon us; I then determined to lay the ship for a fair drift through the channel I had observed in the morning, and which I had every reason to believe, from the wind (south-east) blowing directly through it, would not be obstructed until the floe-ice came down. It was a consolation to know that if we were compelled to drift, we should do so faster than the ice; I therefore thought it as well to avoid it as long as possible. Another reason determined me to delay the drifting to the latest moment; I did not believe that the extent of the channel we had seen in the morning was more than ten miles, and at the rate we drifted, the end of it would be reached long before the gale was over. This, like the former gale, was an old-fashioned snow-storm. All the canvass we could show to it at one time was a close-reefed main-topsail and fore-storm-staysail. It blew tremendously, and the sea we experienced was a short disagreeable one, but nothing to be compared to that which accompanied the first gale. From the shortness of the sea, I page 258inferred that we had some current. This state of things continued for several hours, during which we every moment expected to reach the end of our channel. Since the last gale, the whole crew, officers and men, had been put in watch and watch, ready for an instantaneous call, and prepared for rapid movements. The snow was of the same sleety or cutting character as that of the previous day, and seemed as if armed with sharp icicles or needles.

The 31st brought no moderation of the weather. At 1 a. m., a group of ice-islands was reported, and shortly afterwards field-ice close under our 1ee. We wore ship instantly, and just avoided coming in contact with the latter. Sail was immediately made on the ship, and the scene of the former gale again gone through, with this exception, that we were now passing to and fro among icebergs immediately to windward of the barrier, and each tack brought us nearer to it. Between 4 and 5 A. m., our space was becoming confined, and there was no abatement of the gale; I therefore, as it had cleared sufficiently to enable us to see a quarter of a mile, determined to bear up and run off north-northwest for a clear sea. In doing this we passed icebergs of all dimensions and heavy floe-ice. By 8h. 30m. we had run thirty miles, when, finding a more open sea, I judged we had partially cleared the ice. At noon the gale still continued. The lowest reading of the barometer during this gale was 28.59 in.

After lasting thirty hours, the gale, at six p.m., began to moderate a little, when we again made sail to the southward. I now felt inclined to seek Piner's Bay again, in order to effect a landing. This would have been a great personal gratification; but the bay was sixty miles distant, so that to revisit it would occupy time that was now precious; and feeling satisfied that a great extent of land wholly unknown lay to the westward, I deemed it my duty to proceed to its discovery, not doubting that if my opinions of its existence were correct, a place equally feasible for landing would be found. Another subject also presented itself, which, for a time, caused me some anxiety, and which I confess was not only unexpected by me, but directly at variance with my own observations on the condition of my crew.

The following report of the medical officers of the ship was made to me on the day of its date:—

U. S. Ship Vincennes, At sea,

January 31st, 1840.

Sir,—It becomes our duty, as medical officers of this ship, to report to you in writing the condition of the crew at the present time.

The number upon the list this morning is fifteen; most of these cases are consequent upon the extreme hardships and exposure they have undergone during the last gales of wind, when the ship has been surrounded with ice.

This number is not large, but it is necessary to state that the general health of the crew, in our opinion, is decidedly affected, and that under ordinary circumstances the list would be very much increased, as the men, under the present exigencies, actuated by a page 259laudable desire to do their duty to the last, refrain from presenting themselves as applicants for the list.

Under these circumstances, we feel ourselves obliged to report that, in our opinion, a few more days of such exposure as they have already undergone, would reduce the number of the crew by sickness to such an extent as to hazard the safety of the ship, and the lives of all on board.

Very respectfully, your obedient servants,

(Signed) J. L. Fox,
J. S. Whittle,

Assistant-Surgeons.

To Charles Wilkes, Esq.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Although my own opinion, as I have stated, differed from that expressed in the report, I deemed it my duty to ask the opinion of the ward-room officers; and also, in order to procure additional medical advice, restored to duty Acting-Surgeon Gilchrist, who was under suspension. The opinion of the ward-room officers was asked in a written circular, of which the following is a copy.

U. S. Ship Vincennes, At sea,

January 31st, 1840.

Gentlemen,-The receipt of the enclosed report of Drs. Fox and Whittle, relative to the health and condition of the crew of this ship, at this time, renders it necessary for me to decide whether it is expedient to push farther south in exploration under the present circumstances.

As you are acquainted with all the circumstances, it is unnecessary to repeat them, except to remark, that your opinion is requested before I decide upon the course to be pursued, in consequence of the strong bias self-interest might give me in the prosecution of our arduous duties. I wish the report returned to me, and for you to communicate your opinion in writing.

I am respectfully, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

To the Ward-room Officers,

U.S. Ship Vincennes.

Of the answers to this letter it is sufficient here to say, that a majority concurred in opinion with the report of the medical officers. Notwithstanding these opinions, I was not satisfied that there was sufficient cause to change my original determination of passing along to the appointed rendezvous; and, after full consideration of the matter, I came to the conclusion, at whatever hazard to ship and crew, that it was my duty to proceed, and not give up the cruise until the ship should be totally disabled, or it should be evident to all that it was impossible to persist any longer. In bringing myself to this decision, I believe that I viewed the case on all sides with fairness, and allowed my duty to my country, my care for those whom it had committed to my charge, and my responsibility to the world, each to have its due weight.

The weather now moderated, and I ordered sail to be made. The page 2602nd of February found us about sixty miles to the westward of Piner's Bay, steering to the southward, and as usual among iceislands, with the land in sight. The land had the same lofty appearance as before. We stood in until 3 p.m., when we were within two and a half miles of the icy cliffs by which the land was bounded on all sides. These were from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, quite perpendicular, and there was no appearance whatever of rocks; all was covered with ice and snow. A short distance from us to the westward was a long range of icebergs aground, which, contrary to the usual appearance, looked much weather-beaten. We tried for soundings, but did not get any with one hundred and fifty fathoms, although the water was much discoloured. The badness of the deep-sea line was a great annoyance to us, for deeper soundings would probably have obtained bottom. No break in the icy barrier, where a foot could be set on the rocks, was observable from aloft. The land still trended to the westward as far as the eye could reach, and continued to exhibit the same character as before. Our longitude now was 137° 2' E., latitude 66° 12' S.; we found the magnetic declination westerly.

This proved a fine day, so that we had an opportunity of airing the men's bedding, of ventilating the ship, and of getting rid of the ice, with which we were much encumbered. The thermometer varied from 33° to 36°. Our sick-list had increased the last few days to twenty; many of the men were affected with boils, which rendered them comparatively useless; and ulcers, which were caused by the least scratch, were exceedingly prevalent; but their food was good, they had plenty of it, and their spirits were excellent. The high land was seen this afternoon, but the barrier along which we were passing prevented any nearer approach. This evening it was perceptible that the days were becoming shorter, which was a new source of anxiety, for we were often surrounded by numerous iceislands, which the darkness rendered more dangerous.

Towards evening the weather became unsettled, and the 3rd of February was ushered in by another gale, accompanied with snow. The barometer fell lower than heretofore, namely, to 28.460 in.; the thermometer stood at 33°. Before the thick snow came on we had taken the bearings of the ice-islands, and finding we had a few miles comparatively free from them, I determined to await the result of the storm, and made everything snug to encounter it. The gale continued throughout the day, and although it moderated after 5 p.m., we had some strong squalls, but nothing so violent as those we had already experienced. The ship, in consequence of the snow, became more damp and uncomfortable, and our sick-list was increased to thirty, who were rather overcome by want of rest and fatigue than affected by any disease. To remedy the dampness, a stove was placed on the gun-deck, and fires kept burning in the galleys on the berth-deck, more for the purpose of drying the men's clothes than for warmth. We had no observations this day, but the dead-reckoning gave the longitude 134° E., latitude 63° 49' S.

The 4th and 5th the weather continued the same. As the winds became lighter thick snow fell, and we were able to see only a short page 261distance from the ship. We contrived by manœuvring to retain our position. On this last day we got a tolerable observation, which gave our longitude as 133° 42' E., and latitude 64° 6' S.

The first part of the 6th, the same thick weather continued, but towards 4 p.m. it began to clear, when we again made sail, until we saw and took the bearings of the barrier. We found ourselves situated opposite the part of it we had seen three days before. It still had the appearance of being attached to the land, and in one uninterrupted line. Wishing to examine it closely, I hove to for broad daylight. Many whales, penguins, flocks of birds, and some seals, were reported.

On the 7th we had much better weather, and continued all day running along the perpendicular icy barrier, about one hundred and fifty feet in height. Beyond it the outline of the high land could be well distinguished. At 6 p.m. we suddenly found the barrier trending to the southward, and the sea studded with icebergs. I now hauled off until daylight, in. order to ascertain the trending of the land more exactly. I place this point, which I have named Cape Carr, after the first lieutenant of the Vincennes, in longitude 131° 40' E., and latitude 64° 49' S.

On the 8th, at daylight, we again made sail to the southward, and found at 4 a.m. the field of ice had stopped our progress, and the weather was thick. Land was no longer seen to the south, a deep bay apparently making in. We continued our course to the westward along the barrier, until 8 p.m., when we were again brought to. At 7 P.M. we had strong indications of land; the barrier was of the former perpendicular form, and later the outline of the continent appeared distinct though distant. The night was dark and unpleasant. At noon our longitude was 127° 7' E., and latitude 65° 3' S.; variation 14° 30' westerly.

On the 9th we had the finest day we had yet experienced on this coast; the wind had veered from the east to south-west, and given us a clear, bracing, and wholesome atmosphere. The barrier exhibited the same appearance as yesterday. Our longitude was 125° 19' E., latitude 65° 8' S., variation 32° 45' westerly. The current was tried, but none found; the pot was only visible at five fathoms; the colour of the water a dirty green; the dip sector gave 3' 15". I never saw a clearer horizon, or one better defined than we had to the northward. The icy barrier was really beautiful. At midnight we had a splendid display of the aurora australis, extending all around the northern horizon, from west by north to east-north-east. Before its appearance, a few clouds only were seen in the south-east, on which the setting sun cast a red tint, that barely rendered them visible. The horizon, with this exception, appeared clear and well defined. The spurs or brushes of light frequently reached the zenith, converging to a point near it.

Although no clouds could be seen in the direction of the aurora before or after its appearance, yet when it was first seen, there appeared clouds, of the form of massive cumuli, tinged with pale yellow, and behind them arose brilliant red, purple, orange and yellow tints, streaming upwards in innumerable radiations, with all page 262the shades that a combination of these colours could effect. In its most brilliant state it lasted about twenty minutes. The gold-leaf electrometer was tried, but without being affected: the instrument, however, was not very sensitive. Being somewhat surprised at the vast mass of cumuli which appeared during the continuance of the aurora, I watched, after its disappearance, till daylight, but could see only a few clouds: I am therefore inclined to impute the phenomenon to some deception caused by the light of the aurora. The apparent altitude of these clouds was 8°.

On the 10th we were again favoured by the weather; it gave us a fine sunshine, and an opportunity of airing the ship and drying the clothes. All the sick were improving in health.

Running close along the barrier, which continued of the same character, although more broken than yesterday, we saw an appearance of land, although indistinctly, to the southward. The water was of the same colour here as before, and the wind being from the south-south-east, we made some progress, and found ourselves in longitude 122° 35' E., latitude 65° 27' S.; the variation had now increased to 44° 30' westerly. No aurora was seen this night, although it was looked for anxiously.

11th. The barometer had been stationary at 29.080 in. for the last three days; it now began to fall; the temperature of the air was 31°, of the water 32°. The fall of the barometer was soon followed by snow and thick weather. The trending of the barrier had been south-west by west, and a good deal of floe-ice had been met with, which we ran through. The sea was quite smooth, and many icebergs were enclosed in the barrier, which was very compact, and composed of flat fields. At 10 p.m., I found it too dark to run, and hove-to.

During the 12th we had pleasant weather, and at 2 a.m. filled away. At 8 a.m., land was reported to the south-west. Keeping along the barrier and increasing our latitude, I again had hopes of getting near the land. We passed through great quantities of large floe-ice until 1 p.m., when the solid barrier prevented our further progress. Land was now distinctly seen, from eighteen to twenty miles distant, bearing from south-south-east to south-west-a lofty mountain range, covered with snow, though showing many ridges and indentations. I laid the ship to for three hours, in hopes of discovering some opening or movement in the ice, but none was experienced. I tried the current, and found none. The water was of a dirty dark green. We sounded with the wire-line in two hundred and fifty fathoms, and found no bottom. The temperature at that depth was 30½°, of the air 31°. The barrier had in places the appearance of being broken up, and we had decreased our longitude to 112° 16' 12" E., while our latitude was 64° 57' S. This puts the land in about 60° 20' S., and its trending nearly east and west. The line of the icy barrier was generally uniform, although it was occasionally pierced with deep bays. We saw some icebergs with decided spots of earth on them, which gave me hopes of yet obtaining the object of my wishes. The water was remarkably smooth during this day, and the weather clear, enabling us to see a great distance. Two page 263hours after we bore away, we left the floe-ice, and entered a clear sea to the westward, where we lost sight of the barrier for a time; but in hauling up to the south-west, it was, by 8 p.m., within three miles of us, when we again kept off parallel to its trending. The appearance of land still continued. Shortly after, I hove-to, for the purpose of awaiting the daylight, to continue our observations of the land, with little prospect or probability of reaching it, from the immense quantity of ice which continued to form an impenetrable barrier.

13th. At 2 a.m. we made sail to the south-west, in order to close with the barrier, which we found retreated in that direction, and gave us every prospect of getting nearer to it. Our course, for the most part, was through icebergs of tabular form. In the afternoon we had the land ahead, and stood in for it with a light breeze until 6½ p.m., when I judged it to be ten or twelve miles distant. It was very distinct, and extended from west-south-west to south-south-east. We were now in longitude 106°. 40' E., and latitude 65° 57' S.; the variation was 54° 30' westerly. The water was very green. We sounded in three hundred fathoms, and found no bottom. The weather having an unsettled appearance, we stood off to seek a clearer space for the night. The land left was high, rounded, and covered with snow, resembling that first discovered, and had the appearance of being bound by perpendicular icy cliffs.

14th. At daylight we again made sail for the land, beating in for it until 11 a.m., when we found any further progress quite impossible. I then judged that it was seven or eight miles distant. The day was remarkably clear, and the land very distinct. By measure ment, we made the extent of coast of the Antarctic Continent, which was then in sight, seventy-five miles, and by approximate measurement, three thousand feet high. It was entirely covered with snow. Longitude at noon, 106° 18' 42" E., latitude 65° 59' 40" S., variation 57° 5' westerly. On running in, we had passed several icebergs greatly discoloured with earth, and finding we could not approach the shore any nearer, I determined to land on the largest ice-island that seemed accessible, to make dip, intensity, and variation observations. On coming up with it, about one and a half mile from where the barrier had stopped us, I hove the ship to, lowered the boats, and fortunately effected a landing. We found embedded in it, in places, boulders, stones, gravel, sand, and mud or clay. The larger specimens were of red sandstone and basalt. No signs of stratification were to be seen in it, but it was in places formed of icy conglomerate (if I may use the expression), composed of large pieces of rocks, as it were frozen together, and the ice was extremely hard and flint-like. The largest boulder embedded in it was about five or six feet in diameter, but being situated under the shelf of the iceberg, we were not able to get at it.. Many specimens were obtained, and it was amusing to see the eagerness and desire of all hands to possess themselves of a piece of the Antarctic Continent. These pieces were in great demand during the remainder of the cruise. In the centre of this iceberg was found a pond of most delicious page 264water, over which, was a scum of ice about ten inches thick. We obtained from it about five hundred gallons. We remained upon this iceberg several hours, and the men amused themselves to their hearts' content in sliding. The pond was three feet deep, extending over an area of an acre, and contained sufficient water for half a dozen ships. The temperature of the water was 31°. This island had been undoubtedly turned partly over, and had precisely the same appearance that the icy barrier would have exhibited if it had been turned bottom up and subsequently much worn by storms. There was no doubt that it had been detached from the land, which was about eight miles distant.

Around the iceberg we found many species of zoophytes, viz.: salpee, a beautiful specimen of Clio helicina, some large pelagie, and many small crustacea. I made several drawings of them. This day, notwithstanding our disappointment in being still repelled from trading on the new continent, was spent with much gratification, and gave us many new specimens from it.

Finding that we had reached the longitude of 105° E. before the time anticipated, and being desirous to pursue the discoveries farther west, I left a signal flying on this berg, with a bottle containing instructions fox the other vessels, directing them to proceed to the westward as far as they could, in the time which should remain prior to the 1st of March. At 8, p.m., we joined the ship, and bore away again to the westward, intending to pursue the route pointed out to them.

On the 15th we passed many icebergs much discoloured with earth, stones, &c., none of which appeared of recent formation. The weather this day became lowering, and the breeze fresh; we double-reefed the topsails, and made everything snug; the wind was from the southward. At noon this day we were in longitude 104° E., latitude 64° 6' S. The sea had been remarkably smooth the last few days, with no swell; and I began to entertain the idea that we might have a large body of ice to the northward of lis; for the position where Cook found the barrier in 1773 was two hundred miles farther to the north. I determined, however, to pass on in our explorations, hoping they might enable me to join that of Enderby's Land. I deemed it a great object actually to prove the continuity with it if possible; and if disappointed in this, I should at any rate ascertain whether there had been any change in the ice in this quarter, since the time of Cook, which had been done already near his Ne Plus Ultra.

We had a vast number of whales about us this day, as well as penguins, Cape pigeons, white and gray, and small and large petrels. Some seals also were seen.

I was now happy to find the health of my crew had become re-established, and that only a few remained on the sick-list. This, I think, was effected by constant attention to their being warmly clothed.

On the 16th, the barrier of ice tended to the northward, and we were obliged to haul to the north-east, passing through a large number of ice-islands, many of which were stained with earth. In the afternoon a large sea-elephant was discovered on the ice; two boats were sent to effect his capture, and many balls were fired into him, but he showed the utmost indifference to their effect, doing no more than to raise his head at each shot. He contrived to escape by floundering over the ice until he reached the water, in which he was quite a different being. At about 7, p.m., Dr. Fox was dispatched in a boat to visit an ice-island that was very much discoloured with clay in patches. He reported that there was upon it a large pond of muddy water, not frozen, although the temperature on board was much below the freezing point. We observed around the icebergs numerous right whales, puffing in all directions. A large quantity of small crustacea, including shrimps, were here seen around the icebergs. These are believed to be the cause that attracts whales to these parts; they also supply the numerous penguins with their food. For several days I observed a great difference in the wind, by day and by night. It had been fresh from the hour of seven in the morning until 8, p.m., when it generally becomes light, or dies away altogether. To-day we found ourselves in longitude 99° E., and latitude 64° 21' S. We to-day made observations throughout the twenty-four hours with Leslie's photometer.

On the 17th, about 10, a.m., we discovered the barrier extending in a line ahead, and running north and south as far as the eye could reach. Appearances of land were also seen to the south-west, and its trending seemed to be to the northward. We were thus cut off from any further progress to the westward, and obliged to retrace our steps. This position of the ice disappointed me, although it concurred with what was reasonably to be expected. We were now in longitude 97° 37' E., and latitude 64° 1' S.; our variation was 56° 21' westerly, being again on the decrease. To-day we had several snow-squalls, which, instead of being in flakes, was in small grains, as round as shot, and of various sizes, from that of mustard-seed to buck-shot. It was remarkably dry, pure white, and not at all like hail. We found the bay we had entered was fifty or sixty miles in depth, and having run in on its southern side, I determined to return along its northern shore, which we set about with much anxiety, as the weather began to change for the worse. Our situation was by no means such as I should have chosen to encounter bad weather in, the bay being sprinkled with a great many large icebergs. Here we met with a large number of whales, whose curiosity seemed awakened by our presence. Their proximity, however, was anything but pleasant to us, and their blowings resembled that of a number of locomotives. Their close approach was a convincing proof that they had never been exposed to the pursuit of their skilful hunters. They were of the fin-back species, and of extraordinary size.

page 266

Between ten and eleven o'clock at night it was entirely clear overhead, and we were gratified with a splendid exhibition of the aurora australis. It exceeded anything of the kind I had heretofore witnessed; its activity was inconceivable, darting from the zenith to the horizon in all directions in the most brilliant coruscations; rays proceeding as if from a point in the zenith, flashed in brilliant pencillings of light, like sparks of electric fluid in vacuo, and reappeared again to vanish; forming themselves into one body, like an umbrella, or fan, shut up; again emerging to flit across the sky with the rapidity of light, they showed all the prismatic colours at once or in quick succession. So remarkable were the phenomena, that even our sailors were constantly exclaiming in admiration of its brilliancy. The best position in which to view it was by lying flat upon the deck, and looking up. The electrometer was tried, but no effect perceived. The star Canopus was in the zenith at the time, and though visible through the aurora, was much diminished in brightness. On this night also the moon was partially eclipsed.

Large icebergs had now become very numerous, and strengthened the belief that the land existing in this vicinity had taken a very decided trend to the northward. I accordingly followed up the northern barrier closely, and passed through the thickest of these bergs, well knowing from our experience that we should have little or no opportunity of seeing the land, unless on the inner side of them. It appeared as though they had collected here from other places, and it is impossible to form an idea of the small space to which we were at times confined. Upwards of one hundred ice-islands could be counted at a time without the aid of a glass, some of which were several miles long. We enjoyed this beautiful sight with the more pleasure, for we had become used to them, and knew from experience that it was possible to navigate through them without accident.

On the 18th, we continued beating to the eastward, and found no end to the apparently interminable barrier. We had a smooth sea, and better weather than I anticipated. At noon, we had retraced our way about forty miles. To-day we again had snow, which fell in the form of regular six-pointed stars. The needles of which these stars were formed were quite distinct, and of regular crystals. The temperature at the time was 28°. The barometer stood at 28.76 in., about three-tenths lower than we had had it for the last twelve days. The wind was easterly.

19th. During this day the barrier trended more to the north-east, and we not unfrequently entered bays so deep as to find ourselves, on reaching the extremity, cut off by the barrier, and compelled to return within a few miles of the place where we had entered. I thought at first that this might have been caused by the tide or current, but repeated trials showed none. Neither did I detect any motion in the floating ice except what was caused by the wind. Our longitude to-day was 101° E., latitude 63° 2' S. Some anxiety seemed to exist among the officers and crew lest we should find ourselves embayed or cut off from the clear sea, by a line of barrier. There appeared strong reason for this apprehension, as the smooth sea we had had page 267for several days still continued; we had been sailing as if upon a river, and the water had not assumed its blue colour.

It was, therefore, with great pleasure that, on the 20th, a slight swell was perceived, and the barrier began to trend more to the northward, and afterwards again to the westward. In the morning we found ourselves still surrounded by great numbers of ice-islands. After obtaining a tolerably clear space, the day being rather favourable, we sounded with a deep-sea line eight hundred and fifty fathoms. Six's thermometer gave at the surface 31°, and at the depth of eight hundred and fifty fathoms 35°, an increase of four degrees. The current was again tried, but none was found. A white object was visible at eleven fathoms. The water had now assumed a bluish cast.

We endeavoured to-day to land on an iceberg, but there was too much sea. Shrimps were in great quantities about it, but swam too deep to be taken. The wind again hauled to the westward, which disappointed me, as I was in hopes of getting to the position where Cook saw the ice in 1773, being now nearly in the same latitude. It was less than one hundred miles to the westward of us; and little doubt can exist that its situation has not materially changed in sixty-seven years.

The observations of the squadron during this season's antarctic cruise, together with those of the preceding year, would seem to confirm the opinion that very little change takes place in the line of ice. It may be inferred that the line of perpetual congelation exists in a lower latitude in some parts of the southern hemisphere than in others. The icy barrier retreats several degrees to the south of the Antarctic Circle to the west of Cape Horn, while to the eastward it in places advances to the northward of that line, which is no doubt owing to the situation of the land. From the great quantities of ice to be found drifting in all parts of the ocean in high southern latitudes, I am induced to believe that the formation of the ice-islands is much more rapid than is generally supposed. The manner of their formation claimed much of my attention while among them, and I think it may be explained satisfactorily and without difficulty. In the first place, I conceive the ice requires a nucleus whereon the fogs, snow, and rain, may congeal and accumulate; this the land affords. Accident then separates part of this mass of ice, from the land, when it drifts off, and is broken into many pieces, and part of this may again join that which is in process of formation.

From the accumulation of snow, such a mass speedily assumes a flat or table-topped shape, and continues to increase. As these layers accumulate, the field-ice begins to sink, each storm (there of frequent occurrence) tending to give it more weight. The part which is now attached to the land remains aground, whilst that which is more remote being in deep water is free to sink. The accumulated weight on its outer edge produces fissures or fractures at the point where it takes the ground, which the frosts increase; thus separated, the surface again becomes horizontal, and continues to receive new layers from snow, rain, and even fogs, being still page 268retained to the parent mass by the force of attraction. The fogs have no small influence in contributing to the accumulation: some idea may be formed of the increase from this cause, from the fact that during a few hours the ice accumulated to the thickness of a quarter of an inch on our rigging and spars, though neither rain nor snow fell. It may, therefore, I think, be safely asserted that these icebergs are at all times on the increase; for there are few days, according to our experience in this climate, in which some mode of precipitation does not prevail in these high latitudes, where, according to our observations, ice seldom melts. The temperature of even the summer months being rarely above the freezing point, masses of a thousand feet in thickness might require but a few years to form. Icebergs were seen in all stages of formation, from five to two hundred feet above the surface, and each exposed its stratification in horizontal layers from six inches to four feet in thickness. When the icebergs are fully formed, they have a tabular or stratified appearance, and are perfectly wall-sided, varying from one hundred and eighty to two hundred and ten feet in height. These were frequently found by us in their original situation, attached to the land, and having the horizontal stratification distinctly visible.

In some places we sailed for more than fifty miles together, along a straight and perpendicular wall, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, with the land behind it. The icebergs found along the coast afloat were from a quarter of a mile to five miles in length; their separation from the land may be effected by severe frost rending them asunder, after which the violent and frequent storms may be considered a sufficient cause to overcome the attraction which holds them to the parent mass. In their next stage they exhibit the process of decay, being found fifty or sixty miles from the land, and for the most part with their surfaces inclined at a considerable angle to the horizon. This is caused by a change in the position of the centre of gravity, arising from the abrading action of the waves.

By our observations on the temperature of the sea, it is evident that these ice-islands can be little changed by the melting process before they reach the latitude of 60°. The temperature of the sea (as observed by the vessels going to and returning from the south) showed but little change above this latitude, and no doubt it was at its maximum, as it was then the height of the summer season.

During their drift to the northward, on reaching lower latitudes, and as their distance from the land increases, they are found in all stages of decay; some forming obelisks; others, towers and Gothic arches; and all more or less perforated: some exhibit lofty columns, with a natural bridge resting on them of a lightness and beauty inconceivable in any other material.

While in this state, they rarely exhibit any signs of stratification, and some appear to be formed of a soft and porous ice; others are quite blue; others, again, show a green tint, and are of a hard flinty ice. Large ice-islands are seen that retain their tabular tops nearly entire until they reach a low latitude, when their dissolution rapidly ensues; whilst some have lost all resemblance to their original page 269formation, and had evidently been overturned. The process of actually rending asunder was not witnessed by any of the vessels, although in the Flying-Fish, when during fogs they were in close proximity to large ice-islands, they inferred from the loud crashing, and the sudden splashing of the sea on her, that such occurrences had taken place. As the bergs gradually become worn by the abrasion of the sea, they in many cases form large overhanging shelves, about two or three feet above the water, extending out ten or twelve feet; the under part of this projecting mass exhibits the appearance of a collection of icicles hanging from it. The temperature of the water when among the icebergs was found below or about the freezing point.

I have before spoken of the boulders embedded in the icebergs. All those that I had an opportunity of observing apparently formed a part of the nucleus, and were surrounded by extremely compact ice, so that they appear to be connected with that portion of the ice that would be the last to dissolve, and these boulders would therefore in all probability be carried to the farthest extent of their range before they were let loose or deposited.

The ice-islands, on being detached from their original place of formation by some violent storm, are conveyed to the westward by the south-east winds which are prevalent here, and are found, the first season after their separation, about seventy miles north of the barrier. This was inferred from the observations of both the Vincennes and Porpoise, the greatest number having been found about that distance from the barrier. That these were recently detached is proved by their stratified appearance; while those at a greater distance had lost their primitive form, were much worn, and showed many more signs of decay. Near the extreme point of the barrier visited, in longitude 97° E., latitude 62° 30' S., and where it begins to trend to the westward, vast collections of these islands were encountered. From this point they must pass to the north-ward during the next season, partly influenced by the current, and partly scattered by the prevailing winds, until they reach the sixtieth degree of latitude, when they encounter the easterly and north-easterly streams that are known to prevail, which carry them rapidly to the north.

Our data for their actual drift, though not altogether positive, are probably the best that can be had, and will go far towards ascertaining the velocity of their progress to lower latitudes; our observations also furnish some estimate of the time in which they are formed. On our way south, we did not fall in with ice-islands until we reached latitude 61° S. The Peacock was the first to return, and nearly upon the track by which we had gone south; the last seen by her was in 55° S. The Vincennes, on her return fifty days later, saw them in 51° S. The Porpoise, about the same time, in 53° S. The observation in the Vincennes gives a distance of ten degrees of latitude, or six hundred miles, to be passed over in fifty days, which would give about half a mile an hour; or, taking the Peacock's observations, a more rapid rate would be given, nearly three-fourths of a mile. Many icebergs were met in the latitude page 270of 42° S., by outward-bound ships to Sydney, in the month of November; these, I learned, were much worn, and showed lofty pinnacles, exhibiting no appearance of having ever been of a tabular form. These no doubt are such as were detached during a former season, and being disengaged from the barrier, would be naturally, early the next season, drifted by the easterly current as well as the westerly wind, and would pursue the direction they give them. They would therefore be driven to the north-east as far as the south-east winds prevail, and when these veer to the westward would receive an easterly direction. It is where these winds prevail that they are most frequently found by the outward-bound vessels between the latitudes of 40° and 50° S.

Respecting the period of time required for the formation of these ice-islands, much light cannot be expected to be thrown on the subject; but the few facts derived from observations lead to some conclusions. Many of them were measured, and their altitude found to be from fifty to two hundred and fifty feet; eighty distinct stratifications were counted in some of the highest, and in the smallest thirty, which appeared to average a little more than two feet in thickness. Supposing the average fall of snow in these high latitudes to be an inch a day, or thirty feet a year, the largest icebergs would take more than thirty years to form. They were seen by us in all the stages of their growth, and all bore unequivocal marks of the same origin. The distance from the land at which they were forming, fully satisfied me that their fresh water could only be derived from the snows, &c.

The movement of the ice along the coast is entirely to the west-ward, and all the large ranges of ice-islands and bergs were found in that direction, while the eastern portion was comparatively free from it. A difference was found in the position of the floe-ice by the different vessels, caused rather by the wind than by the tide. When the Vincennes and Porpoise passed the opening by which the Peacock entered, it was found closed, although only twenty-four hours had elapsed. It has been seen that the ice had much movement during the time the Peacock was beset by it, and the bay was all but closed when she effected her escape. Another instance occurred, where the Porpoise, in about the longitude of 130° E., found the impracticable barrier a few miles farther south than the Vincennes did six or seven days after; but this fact is not to be received as warranting any general conclusion, on account of the occurrence of south-east gales during the intermediate time. The trials for currents have, for the most part, shown none to exist. The Porpoise, it is true, experienced some, but these were generally after a gale. If currents do exist, their tendency is westward, which I think the drift of the ice would clearly prove. The difference between the astronomic positions and those given by dead-reckoning, was of no avail here as a test,^* for the courses of the vessels among the ice were so tortuous, that the latter could not be depended upon.

page 271

The winds which prevail from the south-west to the south-east occasionally bring clear weather, interrupted by flurries of snow; the north wind is light, and brings thick fogs, attended by a rise of temperature. Extremes of weather are experienced in rapid succession, and it is truly a fickle climate.

The evidence that an extensive continent lies within the icy barrier, must have appeared in the account of my proceedings, but will be, I think, more forcibly exhibited by a comparison with the aspect of other lands in the same southern parallel. Palmer's Land, for instance, which is in like manner invested with ice, is so at certain seasons of the year only, while at others it is quite clear, because strong currents prevail there, which sweep the ice off to the north-east. Along the Antarctic Continent, for the whole distance explored, which is upwards of fifteen hundred miles, no open strait is found. The coast, where the ice permitted approach, was found enveloped with a perpendicular barrier, in some cases unbroken for fifty miles. If there was only a chain of islands, the outline of the ice would undoubtedly be of another form; and it is scarcely to be conceived that so long a chain could extend so nearly in the same parallel of latitude. The land has none of the abruptnesss of termination that the islands of high southern latitudes exhibit; and I am satisfied that it exists in one uninterrupted line of coast, from Ringgold's Knoll, in the east, to Enderby's Land, in the west; that the coast (at longitude 95° E.) trends to the north, and this will account for the icy barrier existing, with little alteration, where it was seen by Cook in 1773. The vast number of ice-islands conclusively points out that there is some extensive nucleus which retains them in their position; for I can see no reason why the ice should not be disengaged from islands, if they were such, as happens in all other cases in like latitudes. The formation of the coast is different from what would probably be found near islands, soundings being obtained in comparatively shoal water; and the colour of the water also indicates that it is not like other southern lands, abrupt and precipitous. This cause is sufficient to retain the huge masses of ice, by their being attached by their lower surfaces instead of their sides only.

Much inquiry and a strong desire has been evinced by geologists, to ascertain the extent to which these ice-islands travel, the boulders and masses of earth they transport, and the direction they take.

From my own observations, and the information I have collected, there appears a great difference in the movements of these vast masses; in some years great numbers of them have floated north from the Antarctic Circle, and even, at times obstructed the navigation about the capes. The year 1832 was remarkable in this respect; many vessels, bound round Cape Horn from the Pacific, were obliged to put back to Chili, in consequence of the dangers arising from ice; while, during the preceding and following years, little or none was seen: this would lead to the belief, that great changes must, take place in the higher latitudes, or the prevalence of some cause to detach the ice-islands from the barrier in such great quantities as to cover almost the entire section of the ocean south. page 272of the latitude 50° S. Taking the early part of the (southern) spring, as the time of separation, we are enabled to make some estimate of the velocity with which they move: many masters of vessels have met them some six or seven hundred miles from the barrier, from sixty to eighty days after this period, which will give a near approximation to our results heretofore stated.

The season of 1839 and 1840 was considered as an open one, from the large masses of ice that were met with in a low latitude, by vessels that arrived from Europe at Sydney: many of them were seen as far north as lat. 42° S.

The causes that prevail to detach and carry them north are difficult to assign. I have referred to the most probable ones that would detach, them from the parent mass in their formation. Our frequent trials of currents, as has been stated, did not give us the assurance that any existed; but there is little doubt in my mind that they do prevail. I should not, however, look to a surface current as being the motive power that carries these immense masses at the rate they move; comparatively speaking, their great bulk is below the influence of any surface current, and the rapid drift of these masses by winds is still more improbable; therefore I conceive we must look to an under current, as their great propeller. In one trial of the deep-sea thermometer, we found the temperature beneath four degrees warmer than the surface. Off Cape Horn, the under temperature was found as cold as among the ice itself; repeated experiments have shown the same to occur in the arctic regions. From this I would draw the conclusion that changes are going on, and it appears to me to be very reasonable to suppose that at periods, currents to and from the poles should at times exist; it is true, we most generally find the latter to prevail, as far as our knowledge of facts extends, but we have not sufficient information yet to decide that there is not a reflow towards the pole; the very circumstance of the current setting from the higher latitudes, would seem a good argument that there must be some counter-current to maintain the level of the waters. These masses, then, are most probably carried away in the seasons when the polar streams are the strongest, and are borne along by them at the velocity with which they move: that these do not occur annually may be inferred from the absence of iceislands in the lower latitudes; and that it is not from the scarcity of them, those who shared the dangers of the Antarctic cruise will, I have little doubt, be ready to testify; for, although great numbers of them studded the ocean that year, yet the narrative shows that vast numbers of them were left.

The specific gravity of the ice varies very much, as might naturally be expected; for while some of it is porous and of a snowy texture, other islands are in great part composed of a compact blue flinty ice. This difference is occasioned by the latter becoming saturated with water, which afterwards freezes.

On the ice there was usually a covering of about two feet of snow, which in places had upon it a crust of ice not strong enough to bear the weight of a man. Those ice-islands, which after having been page 273once seen, were again passed through immediately after a gale, were observed to be changed in appearance; but though for forty-eight hours a severe storm had been experienced, they had not undergone so great a transformation as not to be recognised. They also appeared to have shifted their position with regard to one another, their former bias and trendings being broken up.

During our stay on the icy coast, I saw nothing of what is termed pack-ice—that is, pieces forced one upon the other by the action of the sea or currents.

On the 21st, the weather became unsettled, with light westerly winds, and we made but little progress to the westward. The barrier, at 6 p.m., was seen trending to the westward. In consequence of indications that threatened bad weather, I deemed it useless risk to remain in the proximity of so many ice-islands; and a strong breeze, with squally weather, having already set in, I took advantage of it, feeling satisfied that our farther continuance in this icy region would not only be attended with peril to the ship, but would cause a waste of the time which was demanded by my other duties; and having nearly three thousand miles to sail to our next port (Bay of Islands), I made up my mind to turn the head of the vessel northward.

I therefore had the officers and crew called aft, thanked them all for their exertions and good conduct during the trying scenes they had gone through, congratulated them on the success that had attended us, and informed them that I had determined to bear up and return north.

Having only twenty-five days' full allowance of water, I ordered its issue to be reduced to half allowance.

I have seldom seen so many happy faces, or such rejoicings, as the announcement of my intention to return produced. But although the crew were delighted at the termination of this dangerous cruise, not a word of impatience or discontent had been heard during its continuance. Neither had there been occasion for punishment; and I could not but be thankful to have been enabled to conduct the ship through so difficult and dangerous a navigation without a single accident, with a crew in as good, if not in a better condition than when we first reached the icy barrier. For myself, I indeed felt worse for the fatigues and anxieties I had undergone; but I was able to attend to all my duties, and considered myself amply repaid for my impaired health by the important discoveries we had made, and the success that had attended our exertions.

I shall now leave the Vincennes to pursue her route northward, and return to the Porpoise, the result of whose proceedings will be detailed in the following chapter.