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Chapter XVII.
Antarctic Cruise.

The subjects of which. I am about to treat in the following chapters are exclusively nautical. I shall therefore adopt, in treating them, more of the form, of a log-book, and follow the dailyorder of their occurrence with more strictness than I have hitherto considered necessary. This will be done in order to illustrate more fully the nature of the remote regions we traversed, and for the purpose of giving a more exact relation of the incidents of this part of our cruise-incidents that I cannot but hope have made this part of our labours particularly interesting to all of our countrymen who possess a feeling of national pride.

The credit of these discoveries has been claimed on the part of one foreign nation, and their extent, nay, actual existence, called into question by another; both having rival expeditions abroad, one at the same time, the other the year succeeding.

Each of these nations, with what intent I shall not stop to inquire, has seemed disposed to rob us of the honour by underrating the importance of their own researches, and would restrict the antarctic land to the small parts they respectively saw. However willing I might be in a private capacity to avoid contesting their statements, and let truth make its own way, I feel it due to the honour of our flag to make a proper assertion of the priority of the claim of the American expedition, and of the greater extent of its discoveries and researches.

That land does exist within the antarctic circle is now confirmed by the united testimony of both French and English navigators. D'Urville, the celebrated French navigator, within a few days after land was seen by the three vessels of our squadron, reports that his boats landed on a small point of rocks, at the place (as I suppose) page 232which appeared accessible to us in Piner's Bay, whence the Vincennes was driven in a violent gale; this he called Clarie Land, and testifies to his belief of the existence of a vast tract of land, where our view of it has left no doubt of its existence. Ross, on the other hand, penetrated to the latitude of 79° S. in the succeeding year, coasted for some distance along a lofty country connected with our antarctic continent, and establishes beyond all cavil the correctness of our assertion that we have discovered, not a range of detached islands, but a vast antarctic continent. I took care to forward to Captain Ross a full account of the proceedings of the squadron.^* Although I have never received any acknowledgment of their receipt from him personally, yet I have heard of their having reached his hands a few months prior to his antarctic cruise. Of this, however, I do not complain, and feel only the justifiable desire to maintain the truth in relation to a claim that is indisputable. The following narrative must, I feel satisfied, leave no doubt in any unprejudiced mind of the correctness of the assertion, that we have discovered a vast continent; but I would ask in advance, who was there prior to 1840, either in this country or in Europe, that had the least idea that any large body of land existed to the south of New Holland; and who is there that now doubts the fact, whether he admits it to be a vast continent, or contends that it is only a collection of islands?

Examine all the maps and charts published up to that time, and upon them will any traces of such land be found? They will not, and for the very best of reasons-none was known or even suspected to exist. We ourselves anticipated no such discovery; the indications of it were received with doubt and hesitation; I myself did not venture to record in my private journal the certainty of land, until three days after those best acquainted with its appearance in these high latitudes were assured of the fact; and finally, to remove all possibility of doubt, and to prove conclusively that there was no deception in the case, views of the same land were taken from the vessels in three different positions, with the bearings of its peaks and promontories, by whose intersection their position is nearly as well established as the peaks of any of the islands we surveyed from the sea.

All doubt in relation to the reality of our discovery gradually wore away, and towards the close of the cruise of the Vincennes along the icy barrier, the mountains of the antarctic continent became familiar and of daily appearance, insomuch that the log-book, which is guardedly silent as to the time and date of its being first observed, now speaks throughout of "the land."

After leaving Sydney we had, until the 31st December, fine weather and favourable winds.

During this favourable weather, all hands were employed in tightening the ports, in order to secure the interior of the vessels as much as possible from the cold and wet, which were to be apprehended in the region to which we were bound. For this purpose, after caulking all the openings, the seams were covered page 233with tarred canvass, over which strips of sheet-lead were nailed. The sailors exhibited great interest in these preparations, and studiously sought to make everything snug; all useless articles were stowed away in the hold, for we were in truth full to overflowing.

Among other preparations, rough casings of boards were built around all the hatches, having doors furnished with weights and pulleys, in order to insure that they should not be left open. Having thus provided for the exclusion of cold air, I contented myself with preparations for keeping the interior of the vessel at a temperature no higher than 50°. I deemed this preferable to a higher temperature, in order to prevent the injurious effects which might be produced by passing suddenly from below to the deck. I conceived it far more important to keep the air dry than warm, particularly as a lower temperature would have the effect of inducing the men to take exercise for the purpose of exciting their animal heat.

Aware that warm and dry clothing was an object of the first importance, inspections of the men's feet and dress were held morning and evening, in which the wearing of a suitable number of garments was insisted upon, as well as the greatest personal cleanliness. With the same views, the drying-stoves were particularly attended to: and that every part under deck might be effectually and quickly freed of moisture, additional stoves had been procured at Sydney. Thermometers were hung up in proper places, and frequently consulted, in order by following their indications to secure an equable temperature, and at the time to ascertain when the use of stoves might be dispensed with, in whole or in part. The latter was an important consideration, for we were under the necessity of husbanding our stock of fuel, by expending it only when absolutely necessary.

We also took advantage of the fine weather to bend all our best sails, and to shift our top-gallant masts.

The 1st January, 1840, was one of those days which are termed, both at sea and on shore, a weather-breeder. The sea was smooth and placid, but the sky was in places lowering, and had a wintry cast, to which we had long been strangers; the temperature shortly began to fall, the breeze to increase, and the weather to become misty. In a few hours we were sailing rapidly through the water, with a rising sea, and by midnight it was reported that the tender Mying-Fish was barely visible. I shortened sail, but it was difficult to stop our way; and on the morning of the 2nd of January the fog was dense, and the Peacock and Porpoise only were in sight; we hove-to, and the Peacock and Porpoise were ordered to stand east and west, in order to intercept the tender, but they returned without success; we also fired guns, in hopes of being heard. In the afternoon, I deemed it useless to wait any longer for her, and that I must take the chance of falling in with her at Macquarie Island, our first appointed place of rendezvous-a visit to which I had flattered myself might have been avoided, but which it became necessary now to make. We accordingly proceeded on page 234our course for that island, with, all sail set. This separation of the tender took place in the latitude of 48° S. The officers and crew were not slow in assigning to the Flying-Fish a similar fate with her unfortunate mate, the Sea-Gull. Men-of-war's men are prone to prognosticate evil, and on this occasion they were not wanting in various surmises. Woful accounts were soon afloat of the distress the schooner was in when last seen, and this in quite a moderate sea.

The barometer now began to assume a lower range, and the temperature to fall below 50°. On the 3rd, the fog continuing very thick, the Peacock got beyond hearing of our horns, bells, drums, and guns, and was parted with. This, however, I did not now regret so much, as it was of little consequence whether we sought one or two vessels at our rendezvous, although it might cause a longer detention there.

The morning of the 7th was misty, with squally weather. A heavy sea rising, and a strong gale setting in, we lost sight of the Porpoise for a few hours. Being unable to see beyond an eighth of a mile, it was thought imprudent to run, for fear of passing Macquarie Island, and we hove-to to await its moderating. It cleared at noon, and we obtained an observation, by which we found ourselves in latitude 54° 20' S., and longitude 160° 47' E.; that we had been carried to the eastward upwards of twenty miles in less than eighteen hours; this, with the wind hauling to the south-west, brought us to leeward of this island, and the sea and wind increasing, I saw it was useless to attempt to reach it without great loss of time. I therefore bore off to the southward for our second rendezvous, Emerald Island, or its supposed locality.

During the 9th we passed the site of Emerald Island, but saw nothing of it, nor any indications of land, which I therefore infer does not exist in the locality where it is laid down. We again experienced the south-east current of twenty miles a day. Our variation had increased to twenty-two degrees easterly. Making our course with all sail set, the Porpoise in company, we passed today some pieces of kelp. The temperature continued at 38°. Numerous flocks of gray petrels around us.

The 10th we encountered the first iceberg, and the temperature of the water fell to 32°. We passed close to it, and found it a mile long, and one hundred and eighty feet in height. We had now reached the latitude of 61° 8'S., and longitude 162° 32' E. The second iceberg seen was thirty miles, and the third about fifty-five miles south of the first. These ice-islands were apparently much worn by the sea into cavities, exhibiting fissures as though they were ready to be rent asunder, and showed an apparent stratification, much inclined to the horizon. The weather now became misty, and we had occasionally a little snow. We continued to meet icebergs of different heights, some of which, though inclined to the horizon, had a plane upper surface.

The fair wind from the north-west (accompanied with a light mist, rendering objects on the horizon indistinct) still enabled us to pursue our course southerly. Icebergs became so numerous as to page 235compel us occasionally to change our course. They continued of the same character, with caverns worn in their perpendicular sides, and with flat tops, but the latter were now on a line with the horizon. Towards 6 p. m. of the 11th, we began to perceive smaller pieces of ice, some of which were not more than an eighth of a mile in length, floating, as it were, in small patches. As the icebergs increased in number, the sea became smoother, and there was no apparent motion. Between 8 and 9 p.m., a low point of ice was perceived ahead, and in a short time we passed within it. There was now a large bay before us. As the vessels moved rapidly, at 10½ P. M. we had reached its extreme limits, and found our further progress entirely stopped by a compact barrier of ice, enclosing large square icebergs. The barrier consisted of masses closely packed, and of every variety of shape and size. We hove-to until full daylight. The night was beautiful, and every thing seemed sunk in sleep, except the sound of the distant and low rustling of the ice, that now and then met the ear. We had now reached the latitude of 64° 11' S., longitude 164° 30' E., and found our variation twenty-two degrees easterly. One and all felt disappointed, for we had flattered ourselves that the way was open for further progress to the southward, and had imbibed the impression that the season would be an open one. What surprised me most was a change in the colour of the water to an olive-green, and some faint appearances resembling distant land; but as it was twilight, and I did not believe the thing credible, I put no faith in these indications, although some of the officers were confident they were not occasioned by icebergs. The barometer stood at 29.200 in.; the temperature of the air 33°, water 32°. We lay-to until four o'clock. As it grew light, on the 12th, a fog set in so thick that we lost sight of the Porpoise, and could not hear any answer to our signals. I therefore determined to work along the barrier to the westward.

We were all day beating in a thick fog, with the barrier of ice close to us, and occasionally in tacking brought it under our bow; at other times we were almost in contact with icebergs. During the whole day we could not see at any time further than a quarter of a mile, and seldom more than the ship's length. The fog, or rather thick mist, was forming in ice on our rigging. From the novelty of our situation, and the excitement produced by it, we did not think of the danger.

I shall now leave the Yincennes and Porpoise pursuing their course to the westward with a head-wind, and bring the Peacock up to the barrier.

Previously to parting company on the 3rd of January, the crew of that ship had also been engaged in building hurricane houses, caulking, and chintzing, to secure them from the wet and cold. After parting company, Captain Hudson immediately steered for the first rendezvous, Macquarie Island, and was more fortunate than we were in reaching it, although the Peacock had experienced the same kind of weather that we had, and currents setting to the eastward.

On approaching the island, they discovered large patches of kelp, and saw numerous Procellaria and albatrosses about the ship. On page 236the 10th of January they made the island, and observed a reef of rocks extending three-quarters of a mile off its south end. Passing within a short distance of it, they did not observe any of the signals of the squadron flying, as they had anticipated. They, notwithstanding, stood in, lowered a boat, and dispatched several officers to put up the signal, make experiments, and collect specimens. The boat approached an indentation on the west side, too open to be called a bay, and found that the surf was running high, and beating with great violence against the rocks, which, together with the kelp, rendered it dangerous to attempt landing. They made for several other places which looked favourable at a distance, but on approaching them, they were found even less accessible. The boat then returned to the first place to make another attempt, which was attended with great difficulty. The boat's anchor was dropped, and she was backed in with great caution to the edge of the rollers; the surf was very high, and rolled in with a noise like thunder, breaking furiously upon the rocks, so as to make the boat fairly tremble, and threatening every moment to overwhelm her; once or twice she was prevented from getting broadside-to, by hauling out towards her anchor. At length, after a dozen fruitless attempts, and awaiting a favourable opportunity, Mr. Eld and a quarter-master succeeded in getting ashore, but not without being immersed up to their breasts. It was found impossible to land any instruments; and the quartermaster was dispatched to erect the necessary signals, while Mr. Eld proceeded to visit the penguin rockery not far distant. On approaching the island, it had appeared to be covered with white spots: these excited conjecture; but after landing, the exhalations rendered it not long doubtful that it was birdlime.

Mr. Eld, in his journal, gives the following account of his visit: "Although I had heard so often of the great quantity of birds on the uninhabited islands, I was not prepared to see them in such myriads as here. The whole sides of the rugged hills were literally covered with them. Having passed a deep fissure in the rocks, I ascended a crag that led to what I thought was their principal roost, and at every step my astonishment increased. Such a din of squeaking, squalling, and gabbling, I never before heard or dreamed could be made by any of the feathered tribe. It was impossible to hear one's self speak. It appeared as if every one was vying with his neighbour to make the greatest possible noise. I soon, found my presence particularly displeased them, for they snapped at me in all directions, catching hold of my trowsers, shaking and pinching my flesh so violently as to make me flinch and stand upon the defensive. As we wanted a number of specimens, I commenced kicking them down the precipice, and knocked on the head those which had the temerity to attack me. After having collected a number, and a few eggs, I laid them aside, whilst I ascended higher on the hill. I had not left them more than eighteen feet, before two albatrosses came down, and commenced picking at the dead birds I had just killed, but not being able to make any impression upon them, deliberately picked up two of the eggs with their beaks, and in spite of my efforts to prevent it, flew away with them. The eggs were about the size of a goose's; page 237the original colour seemed to have been white, but they were so dirty that it was difficult to say with certainty. They were no doubt the eggs of the penguin, as I took them out of their nest, which was only a small place scratched in the earth, just big enough to hold one or two eggs, with little or no grass, sticks, or anything else to form a nest of. I afterwards picked up a number of these eggs, and another was found of the size of a hen's egg, white, with a slight tinge of green. On mounting the hill still higher, which was very steep, and composed of volcanic rock, loose stones, and a little soil mixed with birdlime, I found that there were more of these birds than I anticipated. The nests were within two feet of each other, with one or two young ones in each; one of the old ones watching and sitting on the nest, whilst the young were trying ineffectually to nestle themselves under the small wings of the old ones. The appearance of the young was not unlike that of goslings, being covered with a dark thick down.

"These penguins are the Eudyptes chrysocome; they are from sixteen to twenty inches in height, with white breast, and nearly black back, the rest being of a dark dove colour, with the exception of the head, which is adorned on each side with four or five yellow feathers, three or four inches long, looking like graceful plumes. The birds stand erect in rows, which gives them the appearance of Lilliputian soldiers. The sight was novel and beautiful, and had it not been for the gabble—enough to deafen me—I could have stayed much longer. It was now time to return to the boat, when it occurred to me that live birds would be preferable to the dead; so throwing the latter down, I seized one old, and a couple of young ones, and, with three or four eggs in my cap, made the best of my way to the boat. It was now found impossible to hand them on board, and not willing to surrender my prize, a lead-line was thrown me from the boat, but did not come near enough, and in my attempts to get it, I was overtaken by a sea, and was thrown violently against the rocks among the kelp, and just made out to crawl on hands and knees beyond the reach of the returning sea, somewhat bruised, wet, and benumbed with the cold."

At this juncture the quarter-master returned with a large species of penguin over his shoulders, but without the crown of feathers on his head. He described a similar rookery, and also saw some green parroquets with a small red spot on the head, and an oblong slaty or purple spot at the root of the bill, and with straight beaks. Mr. Eld was too much exhausted to return with him to get specimens, and the hour being late, it was necessary to return to the boat, which had been waiting for some time for them. The quarter-master succeeded in getting his penguins to the boat, but Mr. Eld's began floundering about, and, although their legs were tied, managed to get into the water, where they wore at home, and were soon out of reach. The tying of the legs did not seem any impediment to their exertions in the water, and thus several interesting specimens of natural history were lost, the trouble that it cost making them doubly valuable. With great difficulty Mr. Eld reached the boat; for, having again missed his foothold, he fell among the kelp, but by the timely aid of page 238those on board, he was rescued. After an hour's tug at their oars, they reached the ship in safety.

The island is high and much broken; it is apparently covered with verdure, although a long tufted rank grass was the only plant seen by those who landed.

The highest peak on the island is from twelve to fifteen hundred feet high, and as far as our observation extended, it had neither tree nor shrub on it.

On the 13th, in latitude 61° 30' S., longitude 161° 5' E., the first ice-islands were seen.

There was no occasion on the night of the 13th to light the binnacle lamps, as newspaper print could be read with ease at midnight. On the 14th, while still making much progress to the south, and passing occasionally icebergs and brash ice, the water appeared somewhat discoloured.

On the 15th they passed many ice-islands. Many whales were seen; albatrosses, petrels, and Cape pigeons were frequent about the ship. At 4 p.m., the mist raised a little, and to their surprise they saw a perfect barrier of ice, extending to the south-west, with several large icebergs enclosed within it. Shortly after they discovered a sail, which proved to be the Porpoise.

The Vincennes and Porpoise were left in our narrative near the icy barrier, separated by the fogs and mists that prevailed at times. The Porpoise, on the 13th, in latitude 65° 8' S., longitude 163° E., discovered several sea-elephants on the ice. A boat was sent, and succeeded in capturing a female. From the numerous sea-elephants, and the discolouration of the water and ice, they were strongly impressed with the idea of land being in the vicinity, but on sounding with one hundred fathoms, no bottom was found; Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold felt convinced, from the above circumstances, and the report that penguins were heard, that land was near, and thought he could discern to the south-east something like distant mountains. A nearer approach was impossible, as they were then in actual contact with the icy barrier.

On the 15th the Peacock and Porpoise were in company: and, after having had communication with each other, the vessels again separated, standing on opposite tacks.

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On the 16th the three vessels were in longitude 157° 46' B., and all within a short distance of each other. The water was much discoloured, and many albatrosses, Cape pigeons, and petrels, were seen about the ships. On board the Vincennes, we sounded with two hundred and thirty fathoms, and found no bottom; the water had the appearance of an olive-green colour, as if but forty and fifty fathoms deep.

On this day (16th January) appearances believed at the time to be land were visible from all the three vessels, and the comparison of the three observations when taken in connection with the more positive proofs of its existence afterwards obtained, has left no doubt that the appearance was not deceptive. From this day, therefore, we date the discovery which is claimed for the squadron.

On board the Peacock, it appears that Passed Midshipmen Eld and Reynolds both saw the land from the mast-head, and reported it to Captain Hudson: ho was well satisfied on examination that the appearance was totally distinct from that of ice-islands, and a majority of the officers and men were also satisfied, that if land could exist that was it.

I mention particularly the names of these two gentlemen, because they have stated the same fact under oath before the court-martial, after our return.

On board the Porpoise, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold states, that "he went aloft in the afternoon, the weather being clear and fine, the horizon good, and clouds lofty; that he saw over the field-ice, an object, large, dark, and rounding, resembling a mountain in the distance; the icebergs were all light and brilliant, and in great contrast." He goes on to say, in his report, "I watched for an hour to see if the sun in his decline would change the colour of the object; it remained the same, with a white cloud above, similar to that hovering over high land. At sunset the appearance remained the same. I took the bearings accurately, intending to examine it closely as soon as we got a breeze. I am thoroughly of opinion it is an island surrounded by immense fields of ice. The Peacock in sight to the southward and eastward over the ice; the sun set at a few minutes before ten; soon after, a light air from the southward, with a fogbank arising, which, quickly shut out the field-ice."

In Passed Midshipman Eld's journal, he asserts that he had been several times to the mast-head during the day, to view the barrier; that it was not only a barrier of ice, but one of terra firma. Passed Midshipman Reynolds and himself exclaimed, with one accord, that it was land. Not trusting to the naked eye, they descended for spyglasses, which confirmed, beyond a doubt their first impressions. The mountains could be distinctly seen, over the field-ice and bergs, stretching to the south-west as far as anything could be discerned. Two peaks, in particular, were very distinct (which I have named after those two officers), rising in a conical form; and others, the lower parts of which were quite as distinct, but whose summits were lost in light fleecy clouds. Few clouds were to be seen in any other direction, for the weather was remarkably clear. The sun shone brightly on ridge after ridge, whose sides were partially bare; these page 240connected the eminences I have just spoken of, which must be from one to two thousand feet high. Mr. Eld further states, that, on reporting the discovery to Captain Hudson, the latter replied that there was no doubt of it, and that he believed that most of the icebergs then in sight were aground. At this time they were close in with the barrier, and could approach no nearer.

The log-book of the Porpoise has also this notice in it: "From six to eight, calm and pleasant—took in studding-sails; at seven set maintopgallant-studding-sail; discovered what we took to be an island, bearing south by east—a great deal of field-ice in sight; noticed penguins around the brig. (Signed) J. H. North." Dr. Holmes, on the same evening, noted in his journal a marked appearance of land.

On board the Vincennes there was on the same day much excitement among the crew. All eagerly watched the flight of birds, together with the whales and penguins, and spoke of the proximity of land, which, from the appearance of never-failing signs, could scarcely be doubted.

The field-ice is composed of a vast number of pieces, varying in size, and separated from one another, the long swell keeping the outer ones always in motion. The smallest pieces are about six feet in diameter, while the largest sometimes exceeded five or six hundred feet. Their depth below the surface varies still more, and some appear to be soft, whilst others were hard and compact. The depth of these does not probably in any case exceed twenty feet. Most of them, and particularly the larger ones, had a covering of about eighteen inches of snow. The whole at a distance appeared like a vast level field, broken up as it were by the plough, and presenting shapeless angular masses of every possible figure, while here and there a table-topped iceberg was enclosed.

This night we were beating with frequent tacks, in order to gain as much southing as possible. Previous to its becoming broad daylight, the fog rendered everything obscure, even at a short distance from the ship. I knew that we were in close proximity to icebergs and field-ice, but, from the report of the look-out at sunset, believed that there was an opening or large bay leading to the southward. The ship had rapid way on her, and was much tossed about, when in an instant all was perfectly still and quiet; the transition was so sudden, that many were awakened by it from sound sleep, and all well knew, from the short experience we had had, that the cessation of the sound and motion usual at sea, was a proof that we had run within a line of ice-an occurrence from which the feeling of great danger is inseparable. The watch was called by the officer of the deck, to be in readiness to execute such orders as might be necessary for the safety of the ship. Many of those from below were seen hurrying up the hatches, and those on deck straining their eyes to discover the barrier in time to avoid accident. The ship still moving rapidly along, some faint hope remained that the bay might prove a deep one, and enable me to satisfy my sanguine hopes and belief relative to the land.

The feeling is awful, and the uncertainty most trying thus to enter within the icy barrier, blindfolded as it were by an impenetrable fog, page 241and the thought constantly recurring that both ship and crew were in imminent danger; yet I was satisfied that nothing could be gained but by pursuing this course. On we kept, until it was reported to me, by attentive listeners, that they heard the low and distant rustling of the ice; suddenly a dozen voices proclaimed the barrier to be in sight, just ahead. The ship, which a moment before seemed as if unpeopled, from the stillness of all on board, was instantly alive with the bustle of performing the evolutions necessary to bring her to the wind, which was unfavourable to a return on the same track by which we had entered. After a quarter of an hour, the ice was again made ahead, and the full danger of our situation was realised. The ship was certainly embayed; and although the extent of searoom to which we were limited was rendered invisible by the dark and murky weather, yet that we were closely circumscribed was evident from having made the ice so soon on either tack, and from the audible rustling around us. It required several hours to extricate the ship from this bay.

Few are able to estimate the feelings that such an occasion causes to a commander, who has the responsibility of the safety of the ship and crew operating as a heavy weight upon his heart, and producing a feeling as if on the verge of some overwhelming calamity. All tends to satisfy him that nothing could guide him in safety through, or shield from destruction those who have been entrusted to his charge, but the hand of an all-wise Providence.

17th. In the morning we discovered a ship apparently within a mile of us, to which we made signal and fired a gun, but she was shortly afterwards lost sight of. We also saw the brig to the eastward, close to the barrier of ice. In the afternoon we spoke the Peacock: she had not seen us in the morning; and I am disposed to believe that the cause of her image appearing so close to us in the morning was produced by refraction above a low fog-bank; but the usual accompaniment of such phenomena, a difference of temperature below and aloft, did not exist.

I now desired Captain Hudson to make the best use of his time in exploring, as to attempt to keep company would only impede our progress, and without adding to our safety, might prevent the opportunity of examining the barrier for an opening. I was also satisfied that the separation would be a strong incentive to exertion, by exciting rivalry among the officers and crews of the different vessels. Many petrels, albatrosses, a few whales, and a seal, were seen from the ship; and the water was quite green.

18th. The weather this day was variable, with light westerly winds; the temperature of air and water 32°. Occasional squalls of snow and mist occurred, but it was at times clear. The water was still olive-green; and the other vessels occasionally in sight, beating to windward.

On the morning of the 19th, we found ourselves in a deep bay, and discovered the Peacock standing to the south-west. Until eight o'clock, a.m., we had a moderate breeze. The water was of a darker olive-green, and had a muddy appearance. Land was now certainly page 242visible from the Vincennes, both to the south-south-east and south-west, in the former direction most distinctly. Both.appeared high. It was between eight and nine in the morning when I was fully satisfied that it was certainly land, and my own opinion was confirmed by that of some of the oldest and most experienced seamen on board. The officer of the morning watch, Lieutenant Alden, sent twice, and called my attention to it. We were at this time in longitude. 154° 30' E., latitude 66° 20' S.; the day was fine, and at times quite clear, with light winds. After divine service, I still saw the outline of the land, unchanged in form, but not so distinct as in the morning. By noon, I found we were sagging on to the barrier; the boats were lowered in consequence, and the ship towed off. The report from aloft was, "A continued barrier of ice around the bay, and no opening to be seen, having the western point of it bearing to the northward of west of us. I stood to the westward, to pass around it, fully assured that the Peacock would explore all the outlines of the bay.

The Peacock, at 3h. 30m., according to Captain Hudson's journal, having got into the drift-ice, with a barrier still ahead to the west, tacked to the south-east to work up for an immense mass, which had every appearance of land, and which was believed to be such by all on board. It was seen far beyond and towering above an ice-island that was from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height. It bore from them about south-west, and had the appearance of being three thousand feet in height, forming a sort of amphitheatre, looking gray and dark, and divided into two distinct ridges or elevations throughout its entire extent, the whole being covered with snow. As there was no probability of getting nearer to it in this quarter, they stood out of the bay, which was about twenty miles deep, to proceed to the westward, hoping to get an opportunity to approach the object more closely on the other side.

We had a beautiful and unusual sight presented to us this night; the sun and moon both appeared above the horizon at the same time, and each throwing its light abroad. The latter was nearly full. The former illuminated the icebergs and distant continent with his deep golden rays; while the latter, in the opposite horizon, tinged with silvery light the clouds in its immediate neighbourhood. There now being no doubt in any mind of the discovery of land, it gave an exciting interest to the cruise, that appeared to set aside all thought of fatigue, and to make every one willing to encounter any difficulty to effect a landing.

20th. This day, on board the Peacock they witnessed a sea-fight between a whale and one of its many enemies. The sea was quite smooth, and offered the best possible view of the whole combat. First, at a distance from the ship, a whale was seen floundering in a most extraordinary way, lashing the smooth sea into a perfect foam, and endeavouring apparently to extricate himself from some annoyance. As he approached the ship, the struggle continuing and becoming more violent, it was perceived that a fish, apparently about twenty feet long, held him by the jaw, his contortions, spouting, and throes all betokening the agony of the huge monster. The whale now threw page 243himself at full length from the water with open mouth, his pursuer still hanging to the jaw, the blood issuing from the wound and dyeing the sea to a distance around; but all his flounderings were of no avail; his pertinacious enemy still maintained his hold, and was evidently getting the advantage of him. Much alarm seemed to be felt by the many other whales around. These "killers," as they are called, are of a brownish colour on the back, and white on the belly, with a long dorsal fin. Such was the turbulence with which they passed, that a good view could not be had of them to make out more nearly the description. These fish attack a whale in the same way as dogs bait a bull, and worry him to death. They are armed with strong sharp teeth, and generally seize the whale by the lower jaw.

There was a great quantity of animalculæ in the water, and some large squids (Medusæ) and quantities of shrimp were frequently seen about the icebergs; these are no doubt the attractions which bring whales to frequent these seas.

The last two days we had very many beautiful snow-white petrels about. The character of the ice had now become entirely changed. The tabular-formed icebergs prevailed, and there was comparatively little field-ice. Some of the bergs were of magnificent dimensions, one-third of a mile in length, and from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, with sides perfectly smooth, as though they had been chiselled. Others again exhibited lofty arches of manycoloured tints, leading into deep caverns, open to the swell of the sea, which rushing in, produced loud and distant thunderings. The flight of birds passing in and out of these caverns, recalled the recollection of ruined abbeys, castles, and caves, while here and there a bold projecting bluff, crowned with pinnacles and turrets, resembled some gothic keep. A little further onwards would be seen a vast fissure, as if some powerful force had rent in twain these mighty masses. Every noise on board, even our own voices, reverberated from the massive and pure white walls. These tabular bergs are like masses of beautiful alabaster; a verbal description of them can do little to convey the reality to the imagination of one who has not been among them. If an immense city of ruined alabaster palaces can be imagined, of every variety of shape and tint, and composed of huge piles of buildings grouped together, with longlanes or streets winding irregularly through them, some faint idea may be formed of the grandeur and beauty of the spectacle, The time and circumstances under which we were viewing them, threading our way through these vast bergs, we knew not to what end, left an impression upon me of these icy and desolate regions that can never be forgotten.

22nd. It was now, during fine weather, one continued day; but we had occasional snow-squalls that produced an obscurity that was tantalising. The bergs were so vast and inaccessible, that there was no possibility of landing upon them.

The Peacock and Porpoise were in sight of each other this day. A large number of whales, albatrosses, petrels, penguins, &c., were seen around, and a flock of ducks was also reported as having been page 244seen from the Vincennes, as well as several seals. The effect of sunrise, at a little after 2 a.m., on the 23rd, was glorious.

As the events which occurred on board the Peacock during the next few days are particularly interesting, I shall proceed to narrate them in detail, leaving the Vincennes and Porpoise to pursue their route along their dangerous and novel pathway.

The Peacock stood into the bay which the Vincennes had found closed the day before, and saw the same appearance of high land in the distance. The water was much discoloured, and of a dark dirty green. They hove-to, for the double purpose of getting a cast of the lead, and of lowering the boats to carry the instruments to a small iceberg, on which it was possible to land, for the purpose of making magnetic observations. A line of one thousand four hundred fathoms was prepared to sound, and to the lead was attached a cylinder with Six's thermometer. The wind being fresh, several leads at different distances were attached to the line. They were not aware that the lead-line had touched bottom, until they began to haul in, when it was found that the lead bent on at five hundred fathoms was filled with blue and slate-coloured mud. Attached to the lead also was a piece of stone, and a fresh bruise on it, as though the lead had struck heavily on rock.

The remainder of the line had evidently lain on the bottom, as the copper cylinder was covered with mud, and the water inside of it was quite muddy. They then beat up a short distance to windward, and again sounded, when, with the line hanging vertically, bottom was reached at three-hundred and twenty fathoms; the matter brought up was slate-coloured mud. The temperature of the water at the surface was 32°, and at the above depth 27½°, being a decrease of 4½°.

The boats now returned, and on approaching the ship the persons in them were much startled by hearing the crew cheer ship in consequence of finding soundings. This was a natural burst of joy, on obtaining this unquestionable proof that what they saw was indeed the land; a circumstance that, while it left no doubt, if any had existed, in the mind of any one on board the Peacock, that what they had previously seen was truly terra firma, furnished a proof that cannot be gainsayed, even by those disposed to dispute the evidence of sight, unsupported by so decisive a fact. Mr. Eld and Mr. Stuart, in the boats, succeeded in getting observations, and the mean dip by the needles was 86° 16'.

Mr. Eld's boat succeeded in taking a king-penguin of enormous size, viz: from tip of tail to the bill forty-five inches; across the flippers thirty-seven inches; and the circumference of the body thirty-three inches. He was taken after a truly sailor-like fashion, by knocking him down. The bird remained quite unmoved on their approach, or rather showed a disposition to come forward to greet them. A blow with the boat-hook, however, stunned him, and before his recovery he was well secured. He showed, on coming to himself, much resentment at the treatment he had received, not only by fighting, but by an inordinate noise. He was in due time preserved as a specimen, and now graces the collection at Washington. page 245In his craw were found thirty-two pebbles, from the size of a pea to that of a hazel-nut.

24th. Bergs and field-ice were in various directions around. They had light baffling winds, clear and pleasant weather, with a smooth sea. The water was of a dark green colour. Standing into the bay for the purpose of approaching the land, they at 5 a.m. passed through drift-ice into an open space, and when they had again approached the field, hove-to for the purpose of sounding. Here bottom was found at the depth of eight-hundred fathoms; and the matter brought up was similar to that obtained the day before. The distancé between the points where these two soundings were obtained was but short.

At 8h. 30m. a.m., while attempting to box off the ship from some ice under the bow, she made a stern-board, which brought the stern so forcibly in contact with another mass of ice, that it seemed from the shock as if it were entirely stove in; the rudder was so much canted from its position, as to carry away the starboard wheel-rope, and to wrench the neck of the rudder itself in such a manner as to render it unserviceable, or even worse than useless. In hopes of lessening the difficulty, relieving-tackles were applied to the tiller, but without effect, for it was discovered that the rudder had been so far twisted as to make a considerable angle with the keel, and every exertion to move it proved ineffectual.

All hands were now called, and every officer and man was speedily at his station. The ship was found to be rapidly entering the ice, and every effort to direct her course by the management of the sails proved fruitless. In this helpless condition scarcely a moment passed without a new shock in some quarter or other from the ice, and every blow threatened instant destruction. The hope was not yet abandoned, that some temporary expedient might be found to bring the rudder again into use, until they should be extricated from this perilous situation. A stage was, therefore, rigged over the stern, for the purpose of examining into its state, but it was found to be so much injured that it was impossible to remedy its defects while in its place, and preparations were forthwith made for unshipping it. In the mean time the position of the vessel was every instant growing worse, surrounded as she was by masses of floe-ice, and driving further and further into it, towards an immense wall-sided iceberg. All attempts to get the vessel on the other tack failed, in consequence of her being so closely encompassed, and it was therefore thought expedient to attempt to bring her head round, by hanging her to an iceberg by the ice-anchors, and thus complete what had been partially effected by the sails. The anchor was attached, but just at the moment the hawser was passed on board, the ship took a start so suddenly astern, that the rope was literally dragged out of the men's hands before they could get a turn around the bits.

The ship now drove stern foremost into the midst of the huge masses of ice, striking the rudder a second time. This blow gave it the finishing stroke, by nearly wringing off the head, breaking two of the pintles, and the upper and lower brace.

The wind now began to freshen, and the floe-ice to set upon the page 246ship. The sails were furled, and spars rigged up and down the ship's sides as fenders. Attempts were again made to plant the iceanchors, for which purpose the boats were lowered; but the confined space, and the force with which the pieces of ice ground against each other was so great, that the boats proved nearly as unmanageable as the ship. After much exertion, however, the ice-anchors were planted, and the hawser hauled taut. Here they for a time enjoyed comparative security, as the vessel hung by the anchors, which were planted in a large floe. The ice continued to close in rapidly upon them, grinding, crushing and carrying away the fenders; and the wind that had changed to seaward, rose with appearances that foreboded bad weather.

At 10h. 30m. this security was at an end; for the anchors, in spite of the exertions of the officers and men who were near them, broke loose, and the ship was again at the mercy of huge floating masses. A rapid stern-board was the consequence; and a contact with an ice-island, vast, perpendicular, and as high as the mastheads, appeared inevitable.

Every possible preparation was made to meet the expected shock. There was no noise or confusion, and the self-possession and admirable conduct of the commander inspired courage and confidence in all. Preparations were made to cockbill the yards, and spars were got out.

While these preparations were going forward, the imminence of the danger lessened for a while; the anchors again held, and there was a hope that they might bring the vessel up before she struck. This hope, however, endured but for a moment; for the anchors, with the whole body of ice to which they were attached, came in, and the ship going astern, struck quartering upon a piece of ice which lay between her and the great ice-island. This afforded the last hope of preventing her from coming in contact with it; and this hope failed also; for, grinding along the ice, she went nearly stern foremost, and struck with her larboard quarter upon the ice-island with a tremendous crash.

The first effect of this blow was to carry away the spanker-boom, the larboard stern-davit, and to crush the stern-boat. The starboard stern-davit was the next to receive the shock, and as this is connected with the spar-deck bulwarks, the whole of them were started; the knee, a rotten one, which bound the davit to the taffrail, was broken off, and with it all the stanchions to the plank-sheer, as far as the gangway.

Severe as was this shock, it happened fortunately that it was followed by as great a rebound. This gave the vessel a cant to starboard, and by the timely aid of the jib, and other sails, carried her clear of the ice-island, and forced her into a small opening. While doing this, and before the vessel had moved half her length, an impending mass of ice and snow fell in her wake. Had this fallen only a few seconds earlier, it must have crushed the vessel to atoms.

It was also fortunate that the place where she struck the iceisland was near its southern end, so that there was but a short page 247distance to be passed before she was entirely clear of it. This gave more room for the drifting ice, and permitted the vessel to be worked by her sails.

The relief from this pressing danger, however gratifying, gave no assurance of ultimate safety. The weather had an unusually stormy appearance; and the destruction of the vessel seemed almost inevitable, with the loss of every life on board. They had the melancholy alternative in prospect of being frozen to death one after the other, or perishing in a body by the dissolving of the iceberg on which they should take refuge, should the vessel sink.

When the dinner hour arrived the vessel was again fast in the ice, and nothing could for a time be done; it was therefore piped as usual. This served to divert the minds of the men from the dangers around them.

When the meal was over, the former manœuvring was resorted to, the yards being kept swinging to and fro, in order to keep the ship's head in the required direction. She was labouring in the swell, with ice grinding and thumping against her on all sides; every moment something either fore or aft was carried away-chains, bolts, bobstays, bow-sprit, shrouds; even the anchors were lifted, coming down with a surge that carried away the eye-bolts and lashings, and left them to hang by the stoppers. The cut-water also was injured, and every timber seemed to groan.

Similar dangers attended those in the boats. Passed Midshipman Eld was sent to plant the ice-anchors; there was no room for the use of oars; the grinding and grating of the ice, as it rose and fell with the swell, rendered great precaution necessary to prevent the boat from being swamped or crushed; and when it is stated that two hours of hard exertion were required to plant the ice-anchors, some idea of the difficulty attending this service will be had. But this was not all; the difficulty of returning was equally great, and no possible way of effecting it seemed to suggest itself. The sides of the icebergs could not be ascended, and to approach the berg on the side next the ship was certain destruction to the boat and crew, for the ice and water were foaming like a cauldron; and to abandon the former was equally out of the question. At last a chance offered, although almost a hopeless one, by passing between two of these bergs, that appeared on the other side of a small clear space. The boat was upon a small piece of ice, from which, by great exertion, she was launched; a few pulls at the oars brought them to the passage; the bergs were closing fast, and agitated by the swell; no time, therefore, was to be lost; the danger was already great, and in a few seconds it would be impossible to pass. They entered; their oars caught, and they got bat half-way through when the icebergs closed in upon them, and pressed the gunwales together, so as almost to crush the boat; the water entered her, and she was near sinking, when the berg stopped, retreated, and by another hard shove they went through, and were soon alongside of the ship.

Every exertion was now made to work the ship and avoid heavy thumps from the ice. The mode resorted to, to get the ship about, was a novel one, namely, by urging her 1ee bow against a piece of page 248ice, which had the same effect as giving her a 1ee helm; but this was found rather too expensive a mode of effecting the object, and on the pumps showing an increase of water, it was discontinued. The ice had been rapidly accumulating around the ship, contracting still more narrowly the space or area in which they were, and rendering their situation more hazardous.

At 4 p.m., they clewed up the topsails, the ship being fast in the ice, with the wind directly in from the seaward. The ice-anchors were now again run out, in hopes of relieving her from some of the strain. A short time afterwards the ice clearing from the stern enabled them to unship the rudder, which was taken on board in two pieces; it was immediately placed on the quarter-deck, and all the carpenters employed on it.

It soon began to snow violently, and no clear sea could be seen from the ship in any direction. It becoming obscure, the chance was that they would have to take up their last abode there. About six o'clock the weather cleared a little, and the wind freshened; they parted the hawser attached to the ice-anchor, and made sail again for the clear sea, which could now be seen from the mast-head. Towards 8 p.m., as if to blast the little hope that the continuance of clear weather inspired, the ship took a wrong cant, and was forced into a small opening leading further into the ice to leeward, and towards the massive walls of the berg. Great exertions were made, and fortunately, by the aid of the ice-anchors and sails, they succeeded in getting her round, and her head again painted towards the clear sea; but they were shortly afterwards wedged in between two large masses of ice. At midnight the sea was observed to rise, although the wind had not increased, causing much motion among the ice; and the stormy appearance of the sky continued, and gave promise of a gale. The only hope left was to force the ship through, and every means were employed to effect this object. The ice they had now to contend with was of larger dimensions, and the increased sea rendered it doubly dangerous. Some of the shocks against it were so heavy as to excite fears that the ship's bow would be driven in, and on one occasion three of the chronometers were thrown out of their beds of sawdust upon their sides. They continued to make but little headway, and the grinding and thumping on the ship was most painful. The hope of extricating her lessened every moment; for the quantity of ice between them and the sea was increasing, and the ship evidently moved with it to leeward. Few situations could be more trying, but the emergency was met by Captain Hudson with a coolness, perseverance, and presence of mind, which secured the admiration of all who were present, and inspired full confidence and a firm reliance in his ability to overcome every difficulty that lay within the power of human means.

The carpenters were still employed on the rudder, and had succeeded in removing the broken pieces of the pintles from the second and third braces on the stern-post; the upper and lower pintles were broken, leaving only two to hang the rudder by. The weather seemed now to favour them, and about ten o'clock they had finished the rudder, which had been repaired in the best possible manner. Great credit is due to Mr. Dibble, the carpenter (who left his sick-bed on the occasion), for his exertions, attention, and perseverance. He and the carpenter's crew worked twenty-four hours without intermission. The ship was now hove-to, for it was apprehended that her rolling would render the task of shipping the rudder troublesome. By meridian they were again in a situation to make sail to extricate themselves from a bay some thirty miles in extent, which, with the exception of the small opening by which they had entered, was apparently closed by the barrier.

Shortly afterwards, the wind becoming fair, they made all sail for the outlet. The weather proved fine, and the winds moderate. At midnight they found the only opening left, which was not more than a quarter of a mile wide; they suceeeded in passing through this, by 2 a.m., in a snow-storm, and felt grateful to God for their providential escape.

Captain Hudson now came to the conclusion of returning north. "After," as he says, "thoroughly turning over in my own mind the state of the ship—with the head of the rudder gone, hanging by two braces, and in such a state that we could hardly hope to make it answer its purposes again, in encountering the boisterous weather we should have to pass through before reaching the first port—the ship considerably strained; her starboard spar-deck bulwarks gone as far forward as the gangway; the gripe off, and the stern mutilated;—fully satisfied from this state of things that she was perfectly useless for cruising among icebergs, and the accompanying dangers, in thick foggy weather, to which, in these latitudes, we should be more or less subject, and where rapid evolutions were often necessary, in which the rudder must perform its part; and that the ship would require extensive repairs before being employed in surveying operations; and feeling that the season was rapidly coming round when our services would be required in that duty, I held a council of the ward-room officers, and required their opinions, as to making any further attempts to cruise in these latitudes.

"There was but one opinion as to the necessity of the ship's returning north, with the exception of Mr. Emmons and Mr. Baldwin, who thought the rudder might stand, provided we did not get near the ice, or fall in with icebergs. This of course would be to effect little or nothing, and result only in a loss of time. I accordingly page 250put the ship's head north, determined to proceed at once to Sydney, to effect the necessary repairs, so as to be ready at the earliest possible day to join the squadron."

Such were the dangers and difficulties from, which the Peacock, by the admirable conduct of her officers and crew, directed by the consummate seamanship of her commander, was enabled at this time to escape. There still, however, remained thousands of miles of a stormy ocean to be encountered, with a ship so crippled as to be hardly capable of working, and injured to such an extent in her hull as to be kept afloat with difficulty. The narrative of the events of this perilous navigation must, however, be postponed, until I shall have given the proceedings of the other vessels of the squadron, while tracing out the position of the icy barrier, and following along the newly-discovered continent.