page 165

Chapter XIV.
Samoan Group—Upolu—Savaii.

The surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed by the 23rd November, on the 25th we weighed anchor In leaving the harbour we had a narrow escape from wreck, the almost constant south east wind, which is fan to a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of access, is ahead on going out, which renders egress difficult, it therefore becomes necessary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel must be well manœuvied to escape accident, for to miss stays would be almost certain to bring about shipwreck When we beat out, the wind was light, and it failed altogether just as we reached the most dangerous part of the channel, we were in consequence brought within an oar's length of the reef, on which a heavy surf was breaking The moment was a trying one, and the event doubtful, all were at then stations, and not a word was spoken Of my own feelings on the occasion I have no very precise recollection, merely remembering that 1 felt as if I breathed more freely after the crisis had passed and we were in safety.

The distance between Tutuila and Upolu, of thirty-six miles, was soon passed, and in the morning we were delighted with the view of the latter island as we ran down its coast to the westward. It appears much richer and more fruitful than the other islands of this group, and may be described as of moderate height, rising gradually in a succession of ridges from a low shore, here and there broad and fertile valleys are seen, with numerous streams falling from the mountains in cascades The eastern portion of the island is much more rugged than the western, the main ridge runs east and west, and ridges or spurs run back to it from the northern coast, in a page 166south-east direction. Between these lateral ridges are broad and fertile valleys, decreasing in width as they recede from the coast. The shore is lined with a coral reef, which is now and then interrupted by channels, and forms snug and convenient harbours.

At noon we descried the Peacock lying in the harbour of Apia, and shortly afterwards I received a message from Captain Hudson, saying that my presence was required on shore. In the hope that it was not a business of such a nature as to cause detention, I left the Vincennes in the offing, while I went ashore in my boat On reaching the land I found the chiefs engaged in the trial of a native called Tuvai, who had killed an American named Edward Cavenaugh, a native of New Bedford.

It appeared that on Captain Hudson's arrival, the murderer was pointed out to him in the village, upon which he very properly determined to have the offender punished, and gave orders to have him arrested He was, in consequence, seized in a house near the water, and carried on board the Peacock. Captain Hudson then requested a conference with the neighbouring chiefs, who, in consequence, had assembled on the 27th.

The fono, as such assemblies are called, was held in the councilhouse, or fale-tele, where the chiefs were collected. Captain Hudson stated that the object of his having requested them to assemble was to bring the accused to a trial before them, in order that if his guilt were established, he might be brought to condign punishment he then pointed out to them the guilt and consequences of the crime of murder, and declared the course he had considered it his duty to adopt. The chiefs listened attentively to this address, and in reply, through the principal one, admitted that the man taken was in reality the guilty person, a fact known to every person upon the island. Captain Hudson then stated to them that it was absolutely necessary that Tuavi should be promptly punished, in order that others might be deterred from the commission of the same crime. He suggested, however, that in spite of the universal belief in Tuavi's having committed the crime, it was proper that he should undergo a trial, or at least an examination, in order that he might have the privilege of being heard in his own defence.

This suggestion being approved, Tuvai was brought on shore under a military guard, and placed in the centre of the building. He was an ill-looking fellow, of about twenty-eight years of age, and manifested no fear, but looked about him with the greatest composure.

The trial was simple enough: he was first asked by the chiefs whether he was guilty of the crime, to which he answered that he was; being next asked why he had committed it, he replied that he had done it in order to possess himself of the man's property (clothes and a knife).

The chiefs, among whom was Pea, of Apia, to whom the criminal was distantly related, made every effort in his power to save his life; stating that he was in darkness, and therefore unconscious of the guilt of the action, when he committed the murder; that as they had page 167but just emerged from heathenism, they ought not to be subjected for past actions to laws they knew not; that these laws were made for people who occupied a more elevated station; that Tuvai was a poor man of no account, and was not a person of sufficient importance to be noticed by a great people like us; that faa Samoa (the Samoan fashion) did not allow men to be put to death in cold blood, but that after so long a time had elapsed, as in the instance before them, it admitted of a ransom.

Pea went; on to say, that many bad acts had been committed upon natives by white men with impunity, and asked whether the Christian religion sanctioned the taking of human life. He then appealed to our generosity to pardon the present crime, and assured us that no such offences should be committed in future.

Pea had one of those countenances which exhibits all that is passing in the mind. It was amusing to see him at one time exhibiting a picture of whimsical distress at the idea of being compelled to put his kinsman to death, and immediately afterwards laughing at something ludicrous which had occurred to him.

Pea was seconded in his endeavours by Vavasa, of Manono, one of the finest-looking of the chiefs, whose attitudes and movements were full of grace, and his manner exceedingly haughty and bold.

In reply to their arguments, Captain Hudson told them that nothing but the life of the offender could satisfy the demands of justice, and that they must execute the criminal themselves.

This announcement caused much excitement; the chiefs again asserted that they knew no such laws; that by the customs of Samoa, the anger of the friends and relations of a person who had been killed, was to be appeased by a present from the criminal or his relations, and by a form of submission, which consisted in knocking their heads three times on the ground. To this it was replied, that the guilt of the prisoner had been proved and admitted—he must die.

The chiefs, after much reluctance, consented, but expressed great repugnance to an immediate execution. They urged, in a most strenuous manner, that the criminal should be carried on board ship, and executed there, or that he should be taken to some uninhabited island and left.

At this point of the discussion, the Vincennes was announced as being in sight, and the proceedings were suspended. An officer was immediately despatched, who, as has been already mentioned, boarded that vessel off the harbour.

When I landed, I found the assembly anxiously awaiting the result of my arrival. Captain Hudson and myself had a private interview, in which he detailed all the facts, and stated that it had been his intention to compel the chiefs to make all the preparations for the execution; but before it was carried into effect, to come forward and reprieve the criminal, at the same time requesting Mr. Mills to make an appropriate speech, stating the reasons for the pardon.

After a full discussion of the whole subject, we came to the conclusion that it would be best to transport the criminal to some other island; for it appeared probable that this would have a better effect page 168than even his execution, as if would be longer remembered, while, to cause him to be put to death, might naturally excite a desire of revenge.

This decision was at once communicated to the chiefs, with a statement, that in conformity with the laws of Tahiti in such cases, Tuvai should be transported to a desert island, where he would never again have an opportunity of killing a white man. The chiefs, although evidently relieved from the most intense part of their distress, were still much affected by this decision.

The prisoner was then ordered to be taken on board the Peacock, whither he was followed by a crowd of natives, with many tears and lamentations, among whom his wife was the most affected. Among others, Pea, the chief of Apia, to whom, as has been stated, the prisoner was related, was very much distressed and excited. Unable to vent his rage and trouble in any other manner, he spent it upon the crowd around him, striking in all directions with a huge stem of a cocoa-nut leaf, 'by which he soon dispersed them. I felt a curiosity to see what effect the sentence would have upon the prisoner. Death he would have suffered without uttering a murmur; but when he heard he was to be taken from his native land, his firmness was overcome, and he was observed to shed tears. He made no resistance to his being removed on board ship; but after he got there, he said he would rather be put to death and buried in his own native island than banished to a desert one.

After this difficult business was arranged, they brought their own grievances before me, and particularly their complaints against the American whalers. They said that some of them had evaded their port-charges and refused to pay for the provisions with which they had been furnished. To this I replied, that T was ready to indemnify them for their losses, and should ask no other proof of them than their own statement. They appeared struck with the unexpected liberality of this offer; but, alter consultation, as if to manifest a corresponding feeling, declined to accept it. I then informed them that their port-charges for the squadron should be paid, which gave much satisfaction, particularly to old Pea, who would derive the principal benefit from them. The fono then broke up.

After Tuvai was again on board ship, old Pea paid him a visit, in the course of which the former melted into tears, howled bitterly, and begged that he might be taken on shore to be put to death, in order that his body might be buried in his native soil. It appeared from information that we received, that this was a part of a concerted plan to obtain a further commutation of his sentence, and that this affecting interview was got up in order to excite our sympathies. Finding it did not produce the desired effect, old Pea went about the ship with a doleful visage, exclaiming, " Eoloisa-ia-tu Tuvai"—have compassion on Tuvai.

The surveys of Upolu were not finished; the Flying-Fish, which was to have aided in performing them, had not yet been seen or heard from. This was a disappointment, as it compelled me to bring the "Vincennes into the harbour, and thus incur a serious delay.

In order to effect his capture, I visited Rev. Mr. Williams at Fasetootai. On my return we stopped at Sagana for the purpose of visiting Malietoa, the principal chief of the Malo or conquering party.

I have rarely seen a place where more attention is paid to cleanliness than at Sagana. A similar regard to neatness prevails in the walks around the village, and in the cultivation of the taro, melons, and bananas, which is carried on in the immediate vicinity. The paths leading to these cultivated grounds pass through fine shady groves. The preservation of the broad walks and paths appears to be rather an amnsement than a labour to the villagers.

Here Malietoa was seen in his domestic circle, with his wives and children around him. I found him in a small house, enjoying the afternoon breeze, with his daughter playing about him. She was about fifteen years of age, and decidedly the prettiest girl we had seen in this group; her name was Emma, and she was as intelligent as she was pretty.

The chief, whose hair was white with age, made us warmly welcome, and wished to go over to his fale-tele to receive us as became chiefs, but this I would not permit. His wives busied themselves in getting things in order, very much after the fashion of other parts of the world, when a stranger arrives unexpectedly. In a few minutes the fine mats were laid, the stools, calabashes, and straw put away. A clean shirt was slipped over the old man's head while my attention was called off to another object.

Malietoa's house was not larger than the others in the village, and exhibited no other difference from them than in containing a dais or platform, occupying about a third of it, and raised about a foot higher than the rest of the floor.

When the domestic arrangements were completed, large bunches of bananas and fresh cocoa-nuts were brought in and presented to us. Mr. Wilson was an excellent interpreter, and by his aid I had a long and agreeable talk with the old chief, who, when his wars were touched upon, appeared full of fire and animation.

The lake Lauto lies to the westward of this place, and in the centre of an extinct crater. The edge of the crater was found to be two thousand five hundred and seventy feet above the sea, and the descent thence to the water of the lake is one hundred and twenty feet. The form of the lake is nearly circular, and it has a subterranean outlet.

The border of the crater is clothed with the usual forest foliage page 170of these islands, which, however, exhibits here more than usual beauty.

The poets of the island hare appreciated the beauty of the place, and allude to the perpetual verdure which adorns the banks of the lake in the following line:

"Lauuto'o e le toi a e lau mea."
"Lauto, untouched by withered leaf."

There is a legend connected with this lake that has more of poetic beauty and feeling than one would have supposed to exist among so rude a people. It is as follows:

Many generations since, during a war between Upolu and Savaii, a number of war-canoes from the latter island crossed over to attack Ulatamoa, (or, as it is now called, Ulumoenga,) the principal town in the district of Aana. At the time of their approach, two brothers, To'o and Ata, chanced to be paddling their canoes in the channel "between the reef and the shore, and before they could reach the land were attacked by a party of Savaiians. After a valiant defence, Ata was overpowered and slain, while To'o narrowly escaped the same fate.

Overwhelmed with sorrow at the loss of a brother whom he tenderly loved, To'o retired to a neighbouring mountain, and, burying himself in the darkest recesses of its forests, made them resound with his bitter lamentations. At length in his wanderings he came to the summit, where, stooping down, he scooped out with his hands a vast hollow, and, leaning over its brink, suffered his tears to fall in until it was filled. The lake thus, formed has ever since borne the appellation of Lauu-to'o.

The regard of To'o for his brother's memory was further evinced by Ms adoption of Ata's name, conjoined to his own, as his family title, and the appellation of Toomata, a contraction oi To'o-ma-ata, is retained by his descendants, who are still chiefs of note in Upolu, and from whom the tradition was derived.

The lake of Lauto is regarded with superstitious dread by the natives, who believe it to be the abode of the spirits, who, in former times, were regarded with great veneration, and worshipped. These were supposed to inhabit the waters of the lake, in the shape of eels, as thick as a cocoa-nut tree, and two fathoms long. The attempt of our gentlemen to explore it was looked upon as such a profanation that their native guides left them, and regarded them as persons doomed to accident, if not to destruction. The eels were represented as so savage and fierce that they would bite a person's leg off. No eels, however, nor any other fish, were seen in the lake.

In the neighbourhood of the crater no rock was observed in place, nor any light scoria. Only a few fragments of stone were scattered about.

The cone of the crater of Lauto is flatter than the others of the same character that were visited, and particularly than that of Mount Tofua. This is the westernmost of them all, and lies behind page 171Fasetootai. It rises so boldly, that it is seen distinctly from the sea. This, with all the other craters, are situated upon the central ridge, and the most conspicuous of those which remain, are Siusinga, which, lies behind Sagana and Faliata. There is also one upon Mount Malata, in the rear of Fangaloa, and another on the southern side of the island, near Salomana.

In traversing the island of Upolu, many deep gorges were seen, in which there were waterfalls. One of these cascades was measured, and found to be seven hundred and fifty feet m height, so that the whole of the water was dissipated in spray before it reached the bottom. These glens are wild in the extreme, and beautiful from the great variety and peculiar character of the foliage with which they are clothed.

The south side of Upolu, like that of Tahiti, is much more luxuriant than the northern, which is owing to a like cause, namely, that it receives more moisture from the prevailing winds.

The wild orange grows everywhere in great abundance, and in some places the load was literally strewed with the fruit, which here equals the cultivated variety in size.

In pursuance of the resolution I had adopted, Captain Hudson set out on the 30th of October, with the boats of his ship, for the purpose of attempting the capture of Opotuno. This noted chief, among other acts, had taken possession of two boats, sent on shore by the whale-ship William Penn, Captain Swain, of Nantucket, killing the chief mate, and the two boat-steerers. The third officer of the vessel was also wounded, and left for dead upon the beach; he was, however, picked up by some females, who removed him to a hut, where, through their kind attentions, he recovered. He did not, however, rejoin his ship, but remained for some time on the island.

The most surprising part of the history of this transaction is, that Captain Toby, of the ship Swift, of New Bedford, afterwards purchased these boats from Opotuno, although he knew that chief had obtained them by murdering this captain's own countrymen.

On their arrival off the part of the island where Opotuno usually resides, they made for the shore under pretence of surveying, and reached the village of Setipetea, which adjoins that where he dwells. We afterwards learned that no sooner had the boats got within the reef, than he prepared for his flight to the mountains. The news of the capture of Tuvai, and the reappearance of boats from a vessel, (the Peacock), which had passed about ten days before, served to put him on the alert. He had, however, become so daring, that he did not at once fly, but awaited more decided indications of hostility; and when Captain Hudson, accompanied by only two men, passed through his village, having left his boats only a mile distant, he entertained the intention of shooting him. He had actually cocked his gun for this purpose, when one of his followers advised him not to fire, as he would bring great trouble on the island if he shot a chief. When the boats' crews afterwards entered Opotuno's village, the inhabitants showed much alarm, but the chief was missing. It was therefore considered advisable to make no hostile page 172demonstrations, as no good purpose could have been effected by following him to the mountains, where it would have been impossible to apprehend him.

The boats therefore returned, and although without succeeding in the main object of the expedition, something was gained in reviving his apprehensions of being captured. His village was not destroyed, because to do so would have been no injury to him, but only distressing to its poor inhabitants.

The impunity he has hitherto enjoyed, has served to render him audacious, and it is not long since he put to death an American seaman, who had been left sick in his charge.

Opotuno is detested by his brother chiefs, not only for his aggressions upon foreigners, but upon his countrymen also. Only a short time before our arrival, he seduced and carried off the wife of Vavasa. This acb was considered so outrageous, and was so deeply resented, that we were informed a war was only prevented by the near relationship of these two chiefs. The Samoans regard with horror the idea of those connected by ties of consanguinity fighting against each other.

Opotuno is not only related to Vavasa, but is the adopted son of old Pea, of Manono, a connection which was not without its effect in averting hostilities.

On the 4th of November, a fono was held, according to the appointment made with Malietoa, in the fale-tele of Apia. All the officers who could be spared from the ships were ordered to attend. Old Pea, the chief of Apia, seemed to be the master of ceremonies on the occasion. Clean mats were spread for the chiefs, and chairs and benches, borrowed from the missionaries' houses, were placed for us, opposite to them. All the highest chiefs of the "Malo" party were present, except Pea of Manono, and two minor chiefs of Savaii. Malietoa presided. His whole demeanour was dignified, composed, and thoughtful. His personal appearance has already been spoken of, and the form of his head, his white hair, and dignified bearing, again reminded us of General Jackson. He is slender and tall, although somewhat bent by age. It was to be regretted that his dress was ill chosen, and rather detracted from the respect he would have inspired had he appeared in his native garb; he wore pantaloons, a round jacket, and a pink and white striped cotton shirt.

Tooa, the nephew of Malietoa, who acted as spokesman, and whose countenance betokened the interest he felt in the business, attracted attention in the second degree. Then came Mole, the son of Malietoa, Maletau, their general, the most renowned leader in the war of Aana, and Tai-ma-le-lagi, Malietoa's brother. There were also present a number of chiefs of less distinction, among whom was old Pea, of Apia; although he was compelled to take his place, yet he did not fail to be conspicuous, not merely by his personal appearance, but by his officiousness.

The proceedings were conducted with great ceremony; there was a marked difference between this fono and the solemnity of our Indian councils. The Samoan assembly appeared more quiescent, the page 173proceedings exhibited more refinement, and the customs partook of an Asiatic character.

In all such meetings a rigid order of precedence, that seems "well understood by every one, is established; all conversation is carried on in a whisper; no one is seen standing in the presence of a superior, and sitting with, outstretched legs is considered indecorous. Articles were never passed over a person, and no native ever ventured to come in contact with a chief.

The background, on the side of the natives, was filled up with inhabitants from different parts of the island.

On the opposite side of the building, the officers of the squadron and the missionaries formed a numerous group. Among the latter was our friend, Mr. Williams, and his son, whom I had appointed to act as consul, until the pleasure of the government of the United States was known, and whom it was intended to present in this capacity to the meeting, in order that he might be recognised formally by the chiefs. Mr. Heath, who was believed to be best acquainted with the Samoan language, was kind enough to officiate as our interpreter.

The object I had in view in requesting the fono, was to procure the formal enactment of laws and regulations which might secure to our whale-ships a certainty of protection and security.

We entered upon the discussion of the proposed regulations; these were adopted in a form which promises to be mutually beneficial.

One of the articles referred to the redress of injuries committed by the natives, and provided for the punishment of those who had been guilty of crime, by giving them up.

As authorised by the spirit of this article, I made a demand for the murderer, Opotuno, and stated that a compliance with this would settle all disputes between us. This demand produced a great sensation among the chiefs, and much excitement prevailed in the meeting. Malietoa, in reply to it, expressed himself strongly in detestation of the character of Opotuno, and stated that his capture by us would give him satisfaction, but argued that the regulations now enacted could not apply to his past misdeeds, and that he would only come within its operation should he be again guilty of like crimes.

He next argued, that the inevitable consequence of any attempt on their part to seize Opotuno, would be to involve the whole group in a civil war, for he was not only a powerful chief himself, but connected with others still more so; and that a civil war was that which he most desired to avoid. He, however, went on to say, that so far as he was concerned, no opposition would be made to any steps on our part to secure one whom they knew to be guilty of great outrages; but he could not in any way assist.

In conclusion, he stated that the islands had, until within the few years that had elapsed since he obtained the command, been the seat of continual wars: that they were now aware of the advantages of peace, and had a just sense of the benefits they in consequence enjoyed; and declared that he should do all in his power to preserve the "blessings of peace, and maintain the unwonted state of page 174prosperity. For these blessings he ascribed high, acknowledgments to the missionaries, saying that he hoped the Samoan people would in due time profit by the lessons taught them, and adopt all the improvements of the Papalangis.

Few persons have ever inspired me with more respect than this old chief, and his sentiments were delivered by Tooa in an impressive manner.

It was not my object to drive them to extremities, or to press for an instant decision. I therefore proposed that before they gave me a final answer in relation to Opotuno, they should take time for consideration and reflection, for which purpose I suggested that the meeting should be adjourned until the next day, which was accordingly done.

On the 5th of November we again met, when the arguments urged the day before were a second time brought forward.

We were favoured with a set speech from the official orator of Malietoa, an old blind chief, who stood up, supporting himself by leaning with both hands upon a long stick. In this attitude he poured forth such, a torrent of words as few of us had ever before heard; and if eloquence be composed of elocution and a ready flow of language, he was fully entitled to the praise of possessing it.

This speech was made up of short and distinct sentences, was spoken in a loud voice, and contained many repetitions.

However contrary this speech may have been to the cool determination of Malietoa, it seemed to meet the popular feeling; and there is no saying what might have been the consequences, had not the missionaries contrived to check the outburst. It was now proposed that the fono should receive and publish a document, offering a large reward for the seizure and delivery of Opotuno, dead or alive. This proposition was a new source of excitement, and old Malietoa exclaimed with emphasis, "Give me the paper !—I will put it upon my house, where the world shall see it."

A copy was then nailed on the pillars of the council-house, which Pea was made responsible for, and others were prepared and distributed to the several chiefs, when the fono was dissolved.

The island of Upolu is divided into three districts, viz., Atua, Tua-Masanga, and Aana. Each of these was formerly governed by a separate and independent chief, styled Tui. Atua occupies the eastern end of the island, which extends as far as the town of Lauli; Tua-Masanga is the middle division, and includes the towns of Siuma and Safata, on the southern shore; Aana lies west of this, and comprises the remainder of the island. The first of these districts is of the greatest extent, the second is at present the most powerful, and the third is the most fertile. The union of these districts under one general government, in which the island of Savaii is also included, is a late event. Previous to 1830, this island had suffered from the usurpation of a chief of Manono, called Tamafago, who was a great tyrant, but who had contrived to cause his person to be considered as sacred, and to impress on his countrymen the idea that it would be sacrilege to disobey, hurt, or even to touch him. After the conquest of a rival district in Savaii, he assumed page 175the style of king of that island, "O le Tupu o Savaii," a title which Malietoa now enjoys, but without deriving from it any power.

Tamafago not only ruled Savaii with, royal and divine attributes, but obtained a complete ascendancy over Upolu, where he compelled all to give up their property to him, and to yield the women of all classes to his desires.

Finally, his tyranny and excesses exceeded the bounds of patience, and the people of Aana rose against him, conquered, and put him to death. From this arose the war of Aana, which will be again spoken of; for the chiefs of the other islands considered themselves bound to avenge the death of Tamafago. The people of the other districts of Upolu were not united in the support of their neighbours of Aana, who had made themselves almost universally odious by their haughty bearing. The war was a bloody one, and resulted, after a continuance of two or three years, in the entire defeat of the people of Aana, by those of Manono, who expelled them from their district, and forbade their return to it on pain of death.

This fertile region remained entirely unoccupied until the arrival of the missionaries; but when the Christian influences of their preaching began to be felt, the decree that condemned Aana to solitude was annulled, and the few of its former inhabitants who had escaped slaughter were permitted to return to their ancient homes.

The island of Manono, whose inhabitants exerted such an influence in the closing scenes in the war of Aana, is situated within the seareef of Upolu. It contains eleven hundred inhabitants, and is the residence of the chief Pea, who must be distinguished from the inferior personage of the same name who resides at Apia. This island is covered with forests throughout its whole extent; its circumference is about four miles; and it is the station of one of the English missionaries.

In spite of its small extent and scanty population, Manono is identified with the political history of all the other islands of the group; for, during the reigns of the two Tamafagos it held supremacy over them. The reason of its acquiring and exercising this political supremacy, is principally to be ascribed to the possession by its inhabitants of the small island of Apolima, which they used as their "olo" or citadel. To this retreat, inaccessible except at a single point, the inhabitants of Manono were in the habit of retiring when pressed by too powerful an enemy; and when his rage had spent itself, they thence returned to their home with undiminished numbers.

This natural fortress lies between Manono and Savaii, and soundings extend to it both from the shores of Upolu and Savaii. The coral reef attached to it is but small.

Apolima, on the most cursory examination, is evidently the crater of an extinct volcano. Perpendicular cliffs rise from the sea around its whole circuit, except at a single point on its northern side. Here the lip of the crater is broken down, and admits the water of the sea into a small bay, which affords a safe harbour for boats. The entrance to this is so narrow as to admit no more than one boat at a time, and is dangerous whenever there is any surf. It may, page 176therefore, be easily defended. There is only one other point on the island where it is possible to effect a landing, namely, at a small height to the westward of the bay, and here it can only be done when the water is perfectly smooth. But an enemy landing here would have made no progress, for before the interior can be reached from this point, the steep and precipitous rocks remain to be climbed.

The highest point of Apolima is on its south side, where it is four hundred and seventy-two feet above the sea. The perpendicular cliffs which face the sea are, of course, bare of vegetation; but with this exception, the whole surface is covered with cocoa, bread-fruit, and other trees, or with plantations of taro, yams, &c.

In the centre of the island is a village of about twenty houses, and the permanent population consists of no more than about seventy-five persons. The people are evidently jealous of the maiden reputation of their natural fortress, and showed much concern, when we visited it, which the women even manifested by shedding tears.

While we were engaged at Tutuila and Upolu, the survey of the island of Savaii was performed by the Porpoise. The brig first touched at Sapapale, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Hardie, who gave them a cordial welcome, although much surprised at so unusual an arrival.

Many of the natives collected to view the white men, of whom so many had never been seen together on the island. In their remarks, they, among other things, praised our people for their beauty.

The bay of Mataatua was found to be the only harbour in the island where a vessel can anchor with safety.

A great difference in form, physiognomy, and manners from those of the adjacent villages, was observed here, as well as a change in the character of many articles of manufacture. The war-clubs and spears were of uncommon form, and neatly made.

The natives appeared harmless, but manifested great curiosity. The women are more gracefully formed than at the other islands.

The native missionaries appeared to exercise much influence over them, having put a stop to many of their former evil practices.

On the 24th, the brig again arrived off Sapapale, after an absence of nine days. Here they took on board Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury.

Dr. Pickering endeavoured to visit the Mu, or burnt district. Preparations for the journey occupied much time; and, among other things, it was stipulated that there should be only two meals a day-one early in the morning, and another in the evening. The first day, however, was to form an exception.

Mr. Hardie accompanied the party for a few miles, and they soon after their departure met a native who was styled "the Lord of the Forest." The party were desirous that this man should accompany them, for his appearance promised more than that of the others, and it seemed it was necessary to obtain his permission before they could enter the forest. In times of scarcity, his domains become of great value, in consequence of the quantity of wild yams they yield. This person agreed to accompany them, and they proceeded along page 177a good path, through, cultivated grounds of taro, Dracæna, &c., Mr. Hardie, before leaving the party, endeavoured to make the natives understand the nature of Dr. Pickering's errand; the latter was unable to make himself understood by them. They had not proceeded far before they came to an uninhabited house, where the natives stopped for the purpose of preparing dinner, the cooking of which occupied three hours! The day was in consequence well advanced before they again started, and at about 4 p.m. they reached an open shed, about two miles from the last stopping place, where the natives concluded to halt for the night. The occupants, who consisted of two elderly women and a young man, were dispossessed, and the shed was enclosed by hanging up leaves of the Heliconia, which resemble those of the banana. They then prepared some excellent cocoa-nut pudding, and heated some cocoa-nut milk in the shells. This beverage is usually taken by them every morning and evening; the natives all saying grace before their meal, and prayers before they went to rest. It was late the next morning before Dr. Pickering could get the party in motion; and, pursuing their route, they soon overtook the Lord of the Forest, who had preceded them, and was employed in cutting a path through the woods, although that already made might have been easily passed through. No inducement could make them change their purpose, and they continued to work at their turnpike, lopping off large branches, beating down ferns, &c. After some time, they reached a rising ground, which they found to be on one side of a crater, about a thousand feet above the sea, and seven miles inland.

Dr. Pickering now concluded that it was a hopeless task to attempt to penetrate into the interior with such guides, and determined to return. They succeeded in reaching the coast about noon the next day.

During the stay of Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury on this island, they were objects of great curiosity; and whenever they walked out they were followed, not only by boys, but by grown men, who did not, however, offer to molest them in any way. When they passed through the villages, all the inhabitants, not excepting the scholars from the schools, came out to look at them.

They here witnessed the taking of fish in a different mode from that practised on the other islands. Application was made to the chief, and through his influence a meeting of the head men of the town was called, and a fishing expedition agreed upon. The net, if it could be so called, was prepared, and in the course of two days everything was ready. The net was a kind of chevaux-de-frise, made of the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, split and wound round a line, and was a little less than half a mile m length. It was more formidable in appearance than reality. This net was taken out, at high water, to the coral reef, in three pieces, then fastened together, and thus made to enclose a large extent of water. This space was gradually contracted by doubling up the not, which answered the same purpose as the drawing of a seine The fish did not attempt to pass it, and were thus driven towards a certain point, where a sort of sack of matting had been placed for them to enter. As the fish page 178were gradually enclosed by the mat, and the tide fell, the scene became an animated one. Men, women, and boys, to the number of two or three hundred, were eagerly engaged in picking up or catching the stragglers as they were seen leaping up; the whole area seemed alive with fish, jumping in every direction, some over the heads of the natives, and thus escaping, while others leaped into hand-nets. About a canoe-load was caught, comprising thirty different kinds of fish, some of which were six or eight pounds in weight, but the majority were smaller.

Savaii is the most western island of the Samoan Group, and is also the largest, being forty miles in length and twenty in breadth. It is not however as populous, or as important, as several of the others. It differs from any of the others in its appearance, for its shore is low, and the ascent thence to the centre is gradual, except where the cones of a few extinct craters are seen. In the middle of the island a peak rises, which is almost continually enveloped in clouds, and is the highest land in the group. On account of these clouds, angles could not be taken for determining its height accurately, but it certainly exceeds four thousand feet.

The interior of the island is rarely entered, even by natives, and has never been penetrated by strangers. The only settlements are upon the shore, along which the natives always journey, and there are no paths across it.

The coral reef attached to this island is interrupted to the south and west, where the surf beats full upon the rocky shore. There are, in consequence, but few places where boats can land, and only one harbour for ships.

The soil is fertile, and was composed, in every part of the island that was visited, of decomposed volcanic rock and vegetable mould.

The Porpoise, having taken Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury on board, set sail for Tutuila, for the purpose of joining the Vincennes.

During our stay in this group, we experienced two slight shocks of earthquakes; their occurrence here is not unusual, but there is no account of any damage having been done. Their motion is generally tremulous and horizontal; one, however, has been experienced of a wavy description. They are said by the foreigners often to produce the sensation of sea-sickness

By the 9th of November the whole squadron was assembled in the harbour of Apia, after having been actively engaged in examining the different islands; but in making surveys of the coaste and harbours, these examinations extended to the shores and reefs, which were all minutely surveyed in boats. The usual observations in astronomy, magnetism, and meteorology, together with full record of the tides, were made and kept. A large amount of information relative to the aboriginal population, their habits, manners and customs, will be given in the following chapter.

On the 10th, the squadron sailed from Apia for New South Wales.