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Chapter XII.
Tahiti and Eimeo.

The Porpoise, having been refitted, was sent to sea on the 20th September, 1839, for the purpose of again visiting the west end of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, with Krusenstern's and Lazareff. She was also ordered to pass over the supposed locality of Recreation Island, and then to meet the Vincennes at Rose Island, the easternmost of the Samoan or Navigator's Group.

A stormy evening having occurred previous to our leaving Matavai Bay, "Jim," the pilot, desired to see me; on his coming into the cabin, to my great amusement, he urged me to allow him to go to Papieti, where he was sure he would be wanted; and when I asked for what purpose, he told me that the "thunder and lightning would bring in ships of war." He was displeased when I laughed, and said, that as he was engaged on board my ship, I would wait until I saw the ships before I could give him permission. He then reminded me of the night before we arrived, when there was plenty of thunder and lightning, and that he told me as soon as he came on board that he expected us. He went on to repeat that he was sure that they would want him early in the morning at Papieti, but I persisted in my refusal: and in the morning he appeared much disconcerted to find that there was nothing in sight out of which he could make a ship of war.

The Vincennes moved to the harbour of Papieti on the 22nd September. At the same time orders were given to the Peacock and Flying-Fish to take on board their articles from Point Venus, and to follow as soon as they had done so. The tender required some repairs, which could be done with more safety at Papieti. Both vessels joined us in that harbour on the 24th.

The purpose of my visit to Papieti had originally been to go through the ceremony of receiving the great chiefs on board, when, according to custom, presents are made them; but before this was done, I determined that the business which I had laid before the council, as stated in the preceding chapter, should be adjusted. page 146This was done satisfactorily on the 22nd, when they assented to all that had been asked of them.

Agreeably to my invitation, Uata, who appeared as the representative of the queen, the two princesses, Ninito and Taii, and all the head chiefs, visited the ship, accompanied by the foreign consuls. The ship was dressed for the occasion with flags, and they were received with every mark of respect. Luncheon was prepared for them; and when they were all seated at it, it struck me that I had never seen such a collection of corpulent persons. Previous to eating, one of the oldest chiefs said grace. Their appetites were good; none of the food appeared to come amiss. They seemed heartily to enjoy themselves, and conducted themselves with a propriety that surprised us all. They were cautious in partaking of the wine which was set before them, and seemed evidently upon their good behaviour. This was the case with the high chiefs, who, to the number of about fifteen, had been invited; but, besides these, about an equal number of others contrived to get on board without invitation the latter thrust themselves forward with eagerness to occupy places at the table, but were compelled to give place to those of higher rank. A second table was, however, prepared for them, at which they took their seats, and did ample justice to what was set before them.

The variety of costume which was exhibited at this banquet was amusing. The princesses were dressed in white frocks, shoes, and stockings, and chip bonnets, but looked awkwardly in them, and appeared more like boys in girls' clothes than women. Some of the men wore full suits-coat, vests, and pantaloons—of a variety of colours; others had sailors' round jackets; others again had only shirts and pantaloons, all too small, both in breadth and length. Some had black felt hats, of all possible fashions, and others wore them of straw; some had shoes on their feet, others had none.

Paofai's son attracted attention by his ridiculous appearance: he wore a red check shirt, light white pantaloons, that reached only half way down his legs, coarse shoes without stockings, and a shortskirted drummer's coat of blue, plentifully faced with scarlet. The latter was so small for him, that no force could make it button upon him. To finish all, he had a high-crowned, conical felt hat stuck upon the top of his head.

After luncheon, they repaired to the deck, to receive the presents prepared for them. These I had been advised, in order to avoid unpleasant scenes, to pack in bundles, assorted to the rank of the parties.

In spite of this precaution, much consultation took place among them, and a desire to exchange with one another was manifested. This was particularly the case with our old acquaintance Taua, and his friend Otore, the ex-minister and former favourite of the queen. The presents for the queen and royal family were committed to the charge of Uata, who, as has been stated, appeared as the representative of her majesty.

Otore, who has been just named, is only a petty chief, but had been the queen's favourite and minister, until he was dismissed in page 147consequence of his frequent indulgence in intoxication. He is considered as, the greatest orator on the island. He and Taua are boon companions, and were continually on board the vessels, where they so timed their visits that the hour of breakfast was sure to find them either actually seated at table or awaiting an invitation. Although at first welcome, the habitual intrusion of these and others upon the messes, finally became an annoyance, and on board the Peacock they had at last recourse to "clearing the ship of strangers" during meals. Taua did not mind this and when we left Matavai, he was so kind as to remove to Papieti, in order to be near his friends.

Among other visitors on this occasion, I had the honour of the company of General Freyre, formerly president of Chili, who has chosen Tahiti as his residence.

He lives in a small cottage on the bank of the harbour at Papieti, where he is highly respected; his manner and whole deportment are gentlemanly; he is tall and robust, with a florid complexion, and appeal's about fifty-five years of age.

On arriving at Tahiti, or indeed at any of the islands, respect is naturally due to the chiefs; this, I am assured, was felt by us all; but long before sailing, we became disgusted with seeing these large and noble-looking men passing from ship to ship, even including Paofai himself, soliciting foul linen to wash, and performing other services that were not in keeping with their rank. There is one, however, whom I must do justice to—Hitoti. I was much pleased with his whole deportment on his visit to me, and also when I saw him at his own house; he paid but two visits to the ship, and those within a day or two of our departure. That he did not visit the vessels before, was in order, as was supposed, to avoid the suspicion of trespassing on our liberality; he refused to accept any presents, and would only drink wine when requested, performing all the little courtesies of the table with grace and politeness.

The geological structure of the island is exclusively volcanic, and the rocks are either compact basalts, or conglomerates of basalt and tufa, although no active volcano exists, nor any well-defined crater, unless Lake Waiherea can be considered as one, Through these rocks olivine and pyroxene are copiously disseminated; cellular lava was found in some places, but neither pumice nor obsidian; quartz and mica were not observed, nor any carbonate of lime, except in the form of coral rock.

There is no conformity between the rocks of the centre of the island and those which in most places extend inwards for a few miles from the coast. The former are usually compact, of columnar structure, and exhibit no appearance of horizontal stratification; the latter lie in horizontal layers, composed of scoriaceous and vesicular lava. In both of these structures singular twistings and contortions were observed. Many dykes were seen to occur, not only in the mountains, but near the sea-coast; these were from three to six feet in width.

All the rocks of the island appear to be undergoing rapid decomposition. Even in places where the rock seemed to have retained page 148its original form of sharp edges and pointed pinnacles, it was found so soft, to the depth of a foot or more, as to crumble in the hand. The earth thus formed varies in colour from that of Indian red to a light ochrey tint; in consequence, many of the hills are of a red hue, and one immediately behind Papieti takes its name (Red Hill) from this appearance.

This decomposed earthy matter, mixed with the abundant decayed vegetation of a tropical climate, forms, as may be readily imagined, a soil of the greatest fertility, adapted to every kind of cultivation. On the higher grounds the soil thus constituted has the character of a clay, and is in wet weather slippery and unctuous; in lower positions it is mixed with lime derived from coral and shells, which often tends to augment its fertility.

Iron abounds throughout; on the mountains and on the shore.

Water gushes out near the coast in copious springs, but none of them were found hot, nor were any warm springs reported to exist.

Papieti, in whose harbour we were now lying, is one of the largest villages on the island; being the ordinary residence of the queen, and the abode of the foreign consuls. The foreign residents are also for the most part collected here. Among all its dwellings, the royal residence and the house of Mr. Pritchard are the only ones which possess the luxury of glazed windows. The houses of the foreigners are scattered along the beach, or built immediately behind it.

A census recently taken, gives for the population of Tahiti nine thousand, and for that of Eimeo one thousand. When this is compared with the estimates of the navigators who first visited these islands, an enormous decrease would appear to have taken place. The first estimates were, however, based on erroneous data, and were unquestionably far too high; yet there is no doubt that the population has fallen off considerably in the interval. The decrease may be ascribed in part to the remains of the old custom of infanticide; in part to new diseases introduced from abroad, and the evils entailed upon them by foreigners; and in part to the transition now going on from a savage to a civilised life.

Whatever may have been the case during the first years after it was visited by Europeans, the population for the last thirty years has been nearly stationary; the births and deaths are now almost exactly in equal numbers.

Tahiti does not appear to be afflicted by many diseases. Some have been introduced by foreign ships, and, among others, the venereal, from which the natives suffer much, being in possession of no method of arresting its ravages, and ignorant of the proper mode of treating it.

The effects of intoxication from ardent spirits and ava are said to have swept off many of the inhabitants. Secondary syphilis is in some cases severe, but their usual vegetable diet and simple mode of living, together with frequent ablutions, tend to mitigate this disease. Its continued prevalence, as well as the severity of some of the cases, are ascribable to the inordinate use of mercury.

While lying at Papieti, we had an opportunity of seeing the page 149manner in which justice is administered in criminal cases. The court was held in the council-house, an oblong building in the native style. The alleged crime was assault with intention of rape. The judges were seated on mats, having Paofai, their chief, a little in front of the rest; and the audience sat or stood around. The culprit was a petty chief, called Ta-ma-hau, a man of huge size, and apparently somewhat of a bully; he stood during the trial leaning against one end of the house, with an air of cool indifference. His accuser was a damsel not remarkable for personal beauty; she sat near the door, among a number of other women. The witnesses were patiently heard, and the matter argued, after which the six judges severally gave their opinions, and made remarks on the evidence, to which Paofai listened in an attentive and dignified manner, expressing, as occasion demanded, his assent or dissent. He then pronounced the verdict of the court, by which the prisoner was acquitted, but did not dismiss him without a brief and merited castigation. It appeared, that although not guilty of the crime alleged, he had, while intoxicated, addressed indecent language to his accuser.

The bread-fruit tree is said to have decreased, and this is no doubt the case; the seeds are said to be often abortive at Tahiti, for which reason the cultivation in this way has been neglected of late, and the plants raised in other modes have become less productive in consequence; its timber is used for many purposes; the fruit was not in season while we were at Tahiti.

Wild sugar-cane was found in the interior, commonly growing in tufts, but so small in size that it was with difficulty recognised; the cultivated kind is derived from this, and is also of small size.

The fruits we met with were oranges, lemons, limes, shaddocks, pine-apples, papayas, bananas, figs, vi-apples, fahies, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; the six first mentioned have been introduced since Cook's time.

The vegetables are sweet potatoes (Convolvulus), yams of small size, taio (Caladium esculentum), the ape (Caladium macrorhizon), turnips, onions, and Leeks; but there were no common potatoes cultivated I gave Mr. Wilson some of the yellow Peruvian potato (Papas amarillas), but he informed me that all their attempts to raise potatoes in the low ground had failed.

The tacca, from which arrow-root is manufactured, grows in quantities, but we did not see it cultivated.

In the botanical researches it was remarkable that not a single stem of paper mulberry (Broussonetia) was found, although former visitors speak of it as the tree from which their cloth was made.

There are a vast variety of ornamental shrubs, and many aromatic plants, which the natives use to perfume their cocoa-nut oil.

The tutui tree (Aleurites triloba), the nut of which is used in tattooing, is very common all over the island.

Tobacco is grown in small quantities.

Grapes succeed well on the south-east side of the island.

The price of labour is from two to four dollars a month, but for occasional labour fifty cents a day is usually paid.

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Wild hogs are said to be numerous in the mountain region; none of our parties, however, met any. Horses are possessed by many persons on the island, and goats were seen. Dogs and eats were abundant. The island is well supplied with cattle; they are suffered to run wild, and frequent the neighbourhood of the hills, whither they are obliged to go for pasturage, which is now very scarce on the island, on account of the thick growth of the guava.

After the departure of the Vincennes, a party from the Peacock, consisting of Mr. Dana and some others, obtained leave of absence from Captain Hudson for five days, with the design of ascending Mount Aorai. They commenced the ascent immediately in the rear of Papieti, and by noon on the second day had reached an elevation of five thousand feet, where they stood upon a platform about twelve feet square; thence they looked down eastward two thousand feet into the Matavai valley; to the westward, they had a gorge about a thousand feet deep running into Toanoa valley; to the south, the platform on which they stood was united by a narrow ridge with Mount Aorai, which was apparently only a short distance before them. In this place they were compelled to pass the night by a fog which enveloped them, through which the guides were unwilling to lead them, refusing to proceed further along the dangerous path until the clouds should clear away.

The next morning was clear, and they pursued their aseending route along the edge of a ridge not more than two or three feet in width, having on each side an abyss two thousand feet deep. Seen, from this ridge, looking south, Mount Aorai seemed a conical peak; but as it was approached, it proved to be a mountain wall, whose edge was turned towards them. The only ascent was by a similar narrow path between precipices, and surpassed in steepness those they had already passed. The width of the crest seldom exceeded two feet; and in some cases they sat upon it as if on horseback, or were compelled to creep along it upon their hands and knees, clinging to the bushes. At last they reached the summit, where they found barely room to turn round. The ridge continued for only a short distance beyond them, being then cut across by the Punaania valley.

From the summit of Aorai, they had a magnificent view; to the south, it was speedily bounded by the peaks of Orohena and Pitohiti, whose steep sides rose from the valley beneath them; to the east, they had the rapid succession of ridge and gorge which characterises Tahitian scenery; to the west, over a similar series of jagged ridges, Eimeo and Tetuaroa stood out from the horizon of the sea in bold relief; to the north, they looked down upon the plain, studded with groves of cocoa-nut and orange; and upon the harbour, with its shipping, and the encircling reefs of coral.

A short distance below the summit of Mount Aorai, a mass of turrets and pinnacles, which, from its singular outline, is called the Crown, runs along the top of a narrow ledge.

Except the plain of the coast, no level land is in sight but the valley of Punaania; this is divided from that of Matavai by a ridge of the usual edge-like form, running upward towards Orohena.

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Very few of the natives who are now alive have been on the summit of Aorai; their paths in this direction, as in other places, do not lead beyond the limit of the groves of wild banana (fahie). Beyond the height at which these cease to grow, the ground is chiefly covered with a wiry grass (Gleichenia), which springs up in many places to the height of ten feet, and is everywhere almost impenetrable. When this was not too high, they broke it down by casting their bodies at full length upon it; and when of larger growth, they had recourse to cutting away or breaking its stiff and crowded stems, until they had formed a way beneath it, whence the light was almost excluded.

The want of water, which, after a few days of dry weather, is seldom found even in the elevated valleys, was an additional discomfort. It is to be recommended to future travellers in the mountains of Tahiti to make provision against this inconvenience. The party was so much distressed from this cause as to enjoy the dew upon the leaves as a luxury.

Mr. Dana reported, that the visit to Aorai conclusively settled one questionable point in the geology of the island. He found upon its summit neither corals nor "screw-shells," which vague rumours have long located on the top of the Tahitian mountains. Every one who has visited this island has probably heard that such formations existed in these lofty positions; but the report rests wholly on native authority. Moera, the guide who accompanied the party, and who resides near One Tree Hill, insisted that he had seen both, and promised to show them. On reaching the summit, he began digging, and the rest of the party aided him. He soon brought up what he called coral, but which proved to be a greyish trachytic rock; and although he continued to dig for some time longer, he could find nothing which he could venture to exhibit as screwshells.

In their descent from Mount Aorai, they followed the western side of the valley of Papoa, along a narrow ledge, similar to that by which they had ascended. After proceeding for two hours, they reached a small plain, which speedily narrowed to a mere edge of naked rock, with a steep inclination; this they were compelled to traverse on their hands and knees, taking the greatest care to avoid detaching the rock, which, in many places, overhung a precipice; next followed a perpendicular descent of about twenty-five feet, down which they let themselves by ropes; this difficulty overcome, the rest of the route presented no dangerous features, and was performed in safety.

The manufactures of Tahiti are of little amount. Among them is that of arrow-root from the Tacca pinnatifida, which employs a portion of the population. Cocoa-nut oil is also made, and preserved for use in pieces of bamboo, cut off at the joints, when the natural diaphragms form a bottom, and the piece is thus a convenient bucket. This oil is often scented with aromatic herbs, to be employed by the natives in anointing the hair and body; it is also used for burning in lamps, and is exported in considerable quantities. The lamps, which are always kept burning in their page 152houses at night, are made of the shell of a cocoa-nut. The wick is formed of wild cotton, and is kept upright in the centre of the bowl by two elastic strips of cocoa-nut leaf crossing each other at right angles.

Sugar is beginning to attract attention, and some attempts have also been made in the culture and preparation of indigo.

Making straw or chip hats is a favourite occupation among the women, whose former employment was the making of tapa.

The repairs of the Flying-Fish were not completed before the 10th of October, up to which time the Peacock was detained, not only in order that they might sail in company, but because her officers were still engaged in the survey of the harbours. In the interval of leisure which was thus afforded them, the crew of the Peacock asked, and obtained permission to get up a theatrical entertainment for the amusement of the natives and themselves. The council-house was placed at their disposal for the purpose, by the native authorities. The play chosen was Schiller's "Bobbers," the parts of which had been rehearsed at sea, in the afternoons—a task which had been the source of much amusement. An opportunity was now presented of getting it up well: the dresses having been prepared, the day was appointed, and when it arrived the piece was performed; the acting was thought by the officers very tolerable, and finally gave great delight to the natives. The latter, however, were somewhat disappointed in the early parts of the performance, for they had expected an exhibition of juggling, such as had been given for their entertainment on board of a French frigate. While under this feeling they were heard to say there was too much "parau" (talk). After they began to enter into the spirit of the performance, the murders took their fancy; and they were diverted with the male representatives of the female characters.

A number of comic songs, which formed the relief of the more serious play, were exceedingly applauded; among others, they laughed heartily at "Jim Crow," sung in character.

On the 25th of September the Vincennes sailed from the Port of Papieti for the island of Eimeo.

On landing, we were soon surrounded by nearly all the natives in the place, male and female, old and young, who followed us with expressions of wonder; their conduct reminded me of the manner in which an Indian chief is run after in the streets of our American cities. In spite of their excitement they were all extremely civil.

The missionaries are now aware that their proper plan is to devote their time and attention to the young; and in pursuance of this object Mr. and Mrs. Howe have lately arrived from England, for the purpose of establishing an infant school.

The natives of Eimeo have an advantage over those of Tahiti, in being free from the influence of evil example; many of them are industrious, and possess a proper feeling of the benefits they have derived from the missionaries, of whom they speak, whenever questioned, as friends.

Three of our crew having become enamoured of these islands, deserted while the Vincennes lay at Eimeo. They left the ship page 153about ten o'clock at night, soon after which their absence was discovered, and parties sent out in every direction to intersect the roads, and drive them to the hills. This was effected by the following morning, and a large party of natives was employed to hunt them up. This task they speedily performed, and at last drove the deserters to one of the highest ridges, in full view of the ship. Here the runaways appeared at first disposed to make fight with stones; but when they saw the odds against them, and witnessed the alertness of the natives in leaping from cliff to cliff, they thought it best to give themselves up; which they did, to three natives, naked except the maro, and armed respectively with a rusty sword, an old cutlass, and a piece of iron hoop. These bound their hands, and led them down to the shore, whence they were brought on board, where the three natives received the reward offered for their apprehension. The chase and capture was an amusing sight to those who watched the proceedings from the ship.

Eimeo has, if possible, a more broken surface than Tahiti, and is more thrown up into separate peaks; its scenery is wild, even in comparison with that of Tahiti, and particularly upon the shores, where the mountains rise precipitously from the water, to the height of twenty-five hundred feet. The reef which surrounds the island is similar to that of Tahiti, and, as we have seen to be the case there, no soundings are found on the outside of it. Black cellular lava abounds, and holes are found in its shattered ridges, among which is the noted one through which the god Oroo is said to have thrown his spear.

The alluvial plain at the head of the harbour of Taloo is partly occupied by plantations of sugar. The cane is of superior quality, and the climate well adapted to its production; the plant is indeed indigenous, and it is well known that the variety of it found at Tahiti has been introduced advantageously into the West Indies.

Coffee, cotton, and all other tropical plants, succeed well at Eimeo, and the quantity of tapa manufactured is greater in proportion than at Tahiti.

On leaving Eimeo, I bade adieu to the Tahitian islands; but I cannot close the portion of the narrative which is devoted to them, without again expressing the pleasure I and all my officers derived from our intercourse with the missionaries, and our obligations for the kindness received from them and other residents.