page 111

Chapter X.
Paumotu Group.

On the 13th July, 1839, we had finished the necessary outfits and taken in our stores. The remainder of the latter were embarked in the store-ship Relief, which was ordered to land a part of them, at the Sandwich Islands, and the rest at Sydney, New South Wales, after which to proceed to the United States by the way of Cape Horn.

At five p.m., having a light breeze, the signal was made to get under way, and we were soon standing out of the bay under all canvass.

The day after our departure, we fell in with a Peruvian brig, from San Blas, in want of water, which we supplied.

I had felt much anxiety lest the small-pox should make its appearance among us, and looked forward daily with apprehension to the hour when the sick reports were made. On the 14th my worst fears were realised, for the Peacock made signal that they had a case of that disease on board. It fortunately proved of a mild type, and no other symptoms occurred that left any doubt of the entire extinction of the contagion. I was, therefore, greatly relieved, as day after day elapsed, to be assured that we had not only escaped so dreadful a scourge ourselves, but that there was no danger of its being communicated to the islanders.

Being now about to enter upon a new field of observation, in which we should necessarily come much in contact with the natives, I issued the following general order, to guard against any misdemeanors, and insure a correct deportment in both officers and men, during our intercourse with the islanders.

page 112

General Order.

The undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, informs the officers and crews under his command, that as they are now about to visit the islands of the Pacific, and to have intercourse with their inhabitants, he wishes to inculcate, on all in the squadron, that courtesy and kindness towards the natives, which are well understood and felt by all classes of mankind; and trusts that neither contempt of, nor interference with, their customs, habits, manners, and prejudices, nor arrogance over them, will be shown by any one belonging to the squadron; bearing always in mind, that savage nations have but vague ideas of the rights of property, and that theft committed by them has been the great cause of collision between them and civilised nations.

He would therefore enjoin upon all, great moderation in everything respecting their intercourse with them, that no act of hostility will be committed, and that an appeal will be made rather to their good-will than to their fears.

That the manner of trading with them which will be established in the squadron, will be most strictly adhered to by all, and that in the event of difficulties or collision, all acts of force will be avoided, unless for self-protection; in short, our aim shall be peace, goodwill, and proper decorum to every class, bearing constantly in mind, that the future intercourse of our countrymen with the natives of the islands we may visit, will very much depend on the impression made on their minds by us; and recollecting, that it is the nature of the savage long to remember benefits, and never to forget injuries.

It therefore behoves us, wherever we go, to leave behind us, whether among civilised or savage nations, favourable impressions, not only as respects this national Expedition, but of our flag and countrymen. The Commander-in-Chief feels a confidence in relying on the officers and crews to carry out these views, from their good and exemplary conduct heretofore, and trusts that he will not have to regret the confidence he reposes in them.

Any acts inconsistent with these views will meet with the most exemplary punishment.

(Signed) Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

July 13th, 1839. United States Ship Vincennes,

I had determined, on leaving Callao, to take up the examination of the Paumotu Group, recommended to the Expedition by that distinguished navigator and promoter of science, Admiral Krusen-stern, whose notes were made a part of my instructions. I therefore steered for the island of Minerva, or Clermont de Tonnerre, one of the most eastern of the Paumotu Group, or Cloud of Islands, as the name implies. I deemed this to be the most interesting point at which to begin our surveys, and the researches of our-naturalists, page 113particularly as it was inhabited, and would thus enable us to trace the inhabitants from one end of Polynesia to the other, across the Pacific. At the same time, it afforded a very desirable point for magnetic observations; and a visit to it would, also enable me to settle a dispute between the two distinguished English and French navigators, Captains Beechey and Duperrey, relative to its geographical position.

On the 13th of August, at five o'clock, p.m., we made Clermont de Tonnerre, or Minerva Island. Clermont de Tonnerre, being the first low coral island we had met, naturally excited a great deal of interest. We had pictured them to ourselves as being a kind of fairy-land, and therefore looked for them with some anxiety.

At first sight the island appeared much like a fleet of vessels at anchor, nothing but the trees being seen in the distance; and as the ship rises and sinks with the swell of the ocean, these are alternately seen and lost sight of. On a nearer approach, the whole white beach was distinctly seen, constituting a narrow belt of land, of a light clay colour, rising up out of the deep ocean, the surf breaking on its coral reefs, surrounding a lagoon of a beautiful blue tint, and perfectly smooth. This island was twelve feet above the level of the sea, and six hundred feet wide to its lagoon, and is composed of coral debris and vegetable matter. The shrubs are few, and not more than from twelve to fifteen feet high; the cocoa-nut, palms, and Pandanus, showing conspicuously above them. We found it, by our survey, to be ten miles long, by one and a half wide, lying in a west-north-west and east-south-east direction. The first sounding on the east side of the island, at three hundred feet from the reef, was obtained in ninety fathoms (coral sand); at one hundred and eighty feet, eighty-five fathoms (coral sand); at one hundred and thirty feet, seven fathoms (hard coral); being at the edge of a nearly perpendicular shelf; thence to the shore, the bottom was uneven, decreasing to four, three, and two fathoms, until a second, or upper coral shelf arose, over which the water, at high tide, flowed. This extended to where the beach is composed of broken coral and shells, and arose on a gentle declivity to ten feet high.

The Peacock sounded within three quarters of a mile from the southern point of the island, at three hundred and fifty fathoms, the lead brought up for a moment, and then again descended to six hundred fathoms without reaching bottom. When it was hauled up it had a small piece of white and another of red coral attached to it. The west side of the island is a bare reef, over which the surf breaks violently. There is no opening or entrance to the lagoon.

For the purpose of surveying the island, the Peacock and Flying-Fish took the west side, while the Vincennes and Porpoise kept on the east. Boats were lowered and sent on shore for the purpose of landing; several of the officers and naturalists succeeded in reaching the beach (swimming through the surf), where they remained about two hours, making collections.

I saw some natives, five men and two women, and endeavoured to hold communication with them. The former were armed with long spears. They were cautiously watching our movements; and page 114after the boats had left, they were seen examining the beach for articles that might have been dropped. Every inducement was held out to them to approach my boat, but without success; and we were obliged to return on board for the night, not having succeeded in finishing the survey. Wishing to communicate with the natives, and effect a landing, we lay-to, and by morning found that we had drifted off from the island eight miles to the north-west, and did not again reach our station until towards the afternoon. I then proceeded to the beach, taking with me, as interpreter, John Sac, a New Zealander, who spoke the Tahitian language, determined, if possible, to enter into communication with the natives, and to land to make observations. Seventeen natives were now seen on the beach, armed with long spears and clubs, which they were brandish-ing, with menacing attitudes, making motions for me to retire. As I approached them, with a white flag flying, many more were seen in the bushes, probably, in all, about one hundred. I told John Sac to speak to them, which he did, and found he was understood. The only answer he could get from them was, several of them crying out at the same time, "Go to your own land; this belongs to us; and we do not want to have anything to do with you." It was impossible to beach the boat without injury, on account of the surf and coral; and in order to land, it was necessary to swim a short distance, which could not be done without our being attacked, and suffering injury, before we had established a friendly intercourse, I therefore had recourse to throwing presents to them—all of which they eagerly took-assuring them that we were friends; but they still continued warning us off, and threatening us with their long spears. I am rather inclined now to think our interpreter was partly the cause of my not succeeding in overcoming their fears and scruples. John Sac was truly a savage, although he had imbibed some feelings of discipline, and was generally a well-disposed fellow. He was a petty New Zealand chief at the Bay of Islands, and had resided some time at Tahiti, where he said he was married. At times it was difficult to control John's movements. On this occasion he soon became provoked at the chief's obstinacy; and the idea of their receiving all our presents so greedily, without even thanks in return, excited his native fire; his eyes shone fiercely, and his whole frame seemed agitated. Half naked as he was, his tattooing conspicuous, he stood in the bow of the boat, brandishing his boat-hook like a spear, with the dexterity of a savage. It was difficult to recognise the sailor in the fierce, majestic-looking warrior before us. The chief and John kept passing words until both were becoming vociferous, the one appearing as savage as the other. John's animated attitudes and gestures were the admiration of all. As we could not understand him, he may have said many things to irritate the savage chief before he could be silenced, although he afterwards declared his innocence in that respect. I had been engaged for upwards of an hour endeavouring to overcome their fears, when I was joined by several boats from the other vessels. The officers being anxious to have communication with the natives, were desirous of landing, and I readily gave them permission to do page 115so without arms. They passed a short distance from us, hoping to effect their purpose without opposition; but the natives separated in order to oppose any landing. One or two officers swam through the surf, without arms, and were boldly set upon by the natives when they made a hurried retreat. This evidently gave the natives confidence, and their conduct became more violent. Mr. Couthouy requested permission to land with presents, under the protection of the boat, to which I consented. He swam on shore, pausing now and then, for the purpose of showing the trinkets. The chief motioned him away, but he landed on the rocks. The chief, retiring appeared as if somewhat alarmed, while Mr. Couthouy advanced towards him holding out the presents. On being joined by another native the chief stopped, raised his spear, and with a shout and distortion of countenance, made a pass at Mr. Couthouy, who at once dropped looking-glasses, trinkets, &c., at his feet, and quickly made for the boat. The savage took no notice of the relinquished offerings, but advanced to attack him with his spear. When he had reached the edge of the surf, the chief made another thrust at him but fortunately without injury. This precipitate retreat gave them still more confidence; they now began throwing pieces of coral numbers of which struck the men in my boat. I felt no disposition to do them harm, and yet I had no idea of letting them see and feel that they had driven us off without landing, well knowing, however, if a forcible landing took place, and they made resistance, that injury would befal one side, and probably both. I therefore, thinking that they had no idea of fire-arms, ordered several blank cartridges to be fired; but they took no notice of them.^* According to John Sac, they hooted at these arms, calling us cowards and daring us to come on shore. I then fired a small charge of mustard-seed shot at their legs, which did not produce any effect. Then Mr. Peale, who was near by me, was requested to draw his ball, and load with mustard-seed, which he did; and Lieutenant North likewise fired, which caused the chief and all the rest to retreat rubbing their legs. The officers were now permitted to land under strict injunctions, in order to avoid all contact with the natives, not to leave the beach.

The natives whom we saw, appeared a fine athletic race, much above the ordinary size. Their colour was darker than that of our Indians, but their features resembled them. No tattooing was observed on the men, and the women were not seen close enough to distinguish them. The hair of the former was long, black, and straight. The chiefs had theirs drawn back, and tied in a knot behind; the others had theirs hanging loose. They wore a small maro made of leaves, and the chiefs a Pandanus leaf around their necks, probably to distinguish their rank. The women wore a piece of tapa as a petticoat; they were not oiled, and the heads of some seemed filled with ashes or lime. They spoke and understood the Tahitian dialect.

page 116

Immediately on their being driven from the beach, a large column of smoke was seen, no doubt a signal to the other inhabitants of the island. After being on the reef half an hour, we joined our boats, and returned on board near sunset.

The number of inhabitants that we saw certainly did not exceed one hundred and twenty.

On the 16th, we bore away for Serle Island; we made the distance between the two islands, twenty-six miles and two-tenths. No signs of any other island exist between these two. This will, I think, settle the question between Duperrey and Beechey. The latter is undoubtedly wrong as respects the longitude of Clermont de Tonnerre, which he places some twenty minutes too far to the eastward, and, I doubt not, some accidental error has occurred in his observations; for I find, at Serle Island, Duperrey, Beeehey, and myself agree within a few minutes.

Serle is a low coral island, and has a large and very regular clump of trees on its western end, which, at a distance, might be taken for a mound or hill. There are but few inhabitants on it.

Lieutenant Alden, in charge of one of the boats employed in surveying, had communication with the natives, who were very friendly, and desirous of holding intercourse with him. He obtained several articles of curiosity from them. Some of them were tattooed. They were found to be arrant thieves, wishing to carry off everything they saw,—trying even to pull the copper off the blades of the oars. When first seen they were armed with spears, but observing that we did not attempt to land, they sent them away in charge of a boy, and swam off to the boat.

On the 19th of August, we made Henuake, Honden, or Dog Island, and came up with it about noon. The boats were at once dispatched, in order to ascertain if a landing could be effected, and the ships began the surveying operations. The number of birds seen hovering over the island was an indication that it was not inhabited, which proved to be the case. Several turtles were caught, and a number of specimens obtained. The survey of the island not having been completed, we lay by all night, and early in the morning dispatched boats to complete the examination of it, and to effect a landing. The greatest part of the day was spent on the island.

The lauding on a coral island effectually does away with all preconceived notions of its beauty, and any previous ideas formed in its favour are immediately put to flight. That verdure which seemed from a distant view to carpet the whole island, was in reality but a few patches of wiry grass, obstructing the walking, and offering neither fruit nor flowers to view; it grew among the rugged coral debris, with a little sand and vegetable earth.

The principal trees and shrubs are the Pandanus, Boerhaavia, and Pisonia. It is somewhat surprising that a few trees, forty or fifty feet high, should have found sufficient soil to protect their growth. Most of the trees, however, are of stunted size, being not more than ten to fifteen feet in height, and eighteen inches in diameter.

The number of birds on the island was incredible, and they were page 117so tame as to require to be pushed off their nests to get their eggs. The most conspicuous among them was the frigate-bird (Tachypetis aquilus); many of the trees were covered with their nests, constructed of a few sticks. The old birds were seen, as they flew off, inflating their blood-red pouches to the size of a child's head, and looking as if a large bladder were attached to their necks. The gannets, sooty terns, and the beautiful tropic-bird, were in countless numbers; the former guarding their eggs (which were laid on the ground without a nest) with care, remaining by them, and even suffering themselves to be captured without resistance. Their hoarse croaking was quite deafening.

Some droll sights were seen of crabs walking off with snakes, and both again seized by some stout bird and borne away. Armies of soldier or piratical crabs (Paguri) were seen moving in all directions with their shells. We enjoyed ourselves much, and found no use for our guns, powder, and shot; as many specimens as we could desire were taken with the hand, both old and young. In some cases the tropic-birds were taken off their nests, and from others their eggs were taken without disturbing them; indeed, I have never seen any barn-yard fowls half so tame.

The various snakes, the many-coloured fish, the great eels, enormous and voracious sharks, large molluscs, curious Lepidoptera, and spiders, with their webs stretching in every direction, and occasioning us much annoyance, seemed to have quiet possession: all gave a novelty to the scene, that highly interested and delighted us. In the afternoon we returned on board, loaded with specimens; and the survey being completed, we bore away on our course.

There are no cocoa-nut palms on the island; nor is there any fresh water to be found. Some of our gentlemen saw on the beach some broken oars and remains of a boat, but nothing could be identified.

Pandanus trees exist on the south side.

On the 23rd of August we made the Disappointment Islands of Byron: they are two in number, called Wytoohee and Otooho.

On the morning of the 24th, we were off the north-west end of the former island. Many canoes came off to the ship: as they approached the vessels, the natives were heard, while at some distance, singing; and, as they drew near, the clamour increased, accompanied with much laughing, and many gesticulations; but none of them could be induced to come on board, and they were not willing to part with anything but some pieces of old matting. An attempt was made to get some of their paddles, but they rather ridiculed the idea of parting with them.

The canoes were quite small, being only from twelve to fifteen feet long. They generally contained two, and sometimes three, natives. Each canoe had an outrigger, and a projecting point, both before and behind, by which they get into them, from the water. They are formed of strips of cocoa-nut wood sewed together. Two persons can carry them. Their paddles were curved backwards.

In order to dispel their fears, articles were given them gra-page 118tuitously, and by way of showing their gratitude, they began a monotonous song or chant. They would occasionally stop, look up, and return the laugh of the crew by a grin; apparently enjoying the sport as much as any of them.

I sent one of the boats to the shore, with the interpreter, but they refused to allow them to land. No actual violence was attempted, but Lieutenant Case reported the impracticability of landing without opposition, and injury to themselves and natives. They received several presents, but they had no fruit to give in return, as their cocoa-nuts were tabooed. They gave in return, some articles, consisting of cloth, fish-hooks, adzes, and pearlshells. Among the articles seen in their possession, was a fine silk pocket-handkerchief, showing that they had had communication not long since with vessels. They refused to part with their spears or clubs. Their adzes were rudely made, but ground very sharp; they were formed of the tridachna or cassis-shell, lashed on a handle somewhat resembling our adze-handles. Knives were also observed in their possession.

Wytoohee is formed of islets connected by a washed coral reef, of irregular shape, with a lagoon having many knolls in it, of various sizes, some four or five feet above the surface.

The natives who had refused to allow us to land, were afterwards seen waving green boughs, which is the general sign of good will, and a desire to have communication, and many were seen dancing on the beach, with their spears in their hands. The boats were sent to the shore, but on reaching it found them still averse to our landing. They were extremely desirous of obtaining buttons, pieces of iron, and cloth. We gave them several small articles, but they could not be persuaded to part with their spears and clubs. The chief, who was a very old man, was seen lying under a Pandanus tree, close to the beach, and on being told I wished to see him, and make him a present, he arose; his hair was quite gray, and he had a long and stiff white beard: his legs were enlarged with the elephantiasis, the swelling being of a white colour, and so large and regular that many thought he had on sailors' trowsers. About twenty natives were with him on the beach. After being shown the presents I had for him, he was induced to wade into the water up to his neck to receive them, On coming alongside the boat, he seemed somewhat uneasy, until he had gone through the ceremony of rubbing noses, which I must confess was anything but agreeable with so dirty and diseased a person. He was extremely anxious to page 119get hold of the presents, and amused us by at once plunging them under the water, seeming in no manner concerned about keeping them dry. He was all the while making a noise like the purring of a cat. In return for my presents, he at once offered me the short mantle of matting which he had over his shoulders.

They understood the Tahitian language. The chief gave his name as Korokoa, and the name of the island as Wytoohee. He appeared about sixty years of age, and his teeth were all sound and good.

His brother was the priest, to whom I also gave some presents. This man had a very remarkable head, the forehead being very high, and narrow almost to deformity, with a dark and suspicious bright eye. His hands were deformed, being destitute of joints, and the lower part bent at right angles. The son of the chief was a remarkably fine-looking lad of fifteen. We saw no women, as they had all been hid. The colour of these natives was much darker than those seen before; in some the hair was inclined to frizzle, and the beard curly. All the grown men that I saw had mustaches; their features were strongly marked with a good-humoured expression of countenance; they wore the maro, and some had a few feathers in their hair.

They appeared to be greatly astonished, and their looks bespoke amazement at our appearance. Occasionally, as if to satisfy themselves of the reality, they would put their hands on us. On receiving a few trifling presents, they broke forth into the same song or chant that was heard on their first coming towards the ship. The younger ones were the first to show confidence, and were much disposed to laugh and joke with the men.

On our gentlemen requesting to go to their huts, they seemed to be thrown into a kind of stupid wonderment, but on being assured they had nothing to fear, their countenances brightened up, and they led the way through the wood to an open space, surrounded by pandanus and cocoa-nut trees. These natives had evidently had communication with vessels, but I very much doubt if any had landed before. They did not appear at all alarmed at the firing of guns, but were much surprised to see the birds killed, holding up their hands, and making ejaculations. They had no idea of the principles of barter, and allowed anything to be taken without opposition, receiving any articles in return with gratitude and delight. Iron was prized more than any other thing. On reaching the huts, inquiry was made of them for their women, when a general burst of laughter ensued, and they gave us to understand that they had penetrated our motive for visiting their island—"that as we inhabited an island without any women, we wanted to have some." Nothing more was said to them on the subject. They accompanied us to the boats, and at parting went through the same ceremonies of rubbing noses, shaking hands, and raising their arms with their palms towards us. According to the estimate I made of the inhabitants, the number was about ninety. From the great age of the chiefs, and the absence of wounded or scarred individuals, I should conclude they lived in peace. They, however, gave their neighbours on the small island to the west (which they called Otooho) a very bad name.

Otooho lies west-north-west of Wytoohee, distant twelve and onethird miles, and is distinctly seen from it, like a round knoll. This appearance is owing to the trees upon it, for the land is as low as coral islands usually are.

The superficial extent of the island of Otooho is about a square mile; it has no lagoon, is well covered with trees, and has fresh water. There were nineteen men counted, which would make the population about fifty souls. No women or children were seen.

At all the inhabited islands we found the greatest numbers of the common house-fly: while at Honden Island (uninhabited) none were perceived. No one can estimate the annoyance they cause, until it has been experienced.

On the 29th, at daylight, land was reported, and we soon ascertained that it was not laid down on the charts. It is low, nearly of a circular form, and well covered with trees and shrubs, and has a page 121lagoon of some extent. I named it King's Island, after the man at the mast-head, who first discovered it. After completing the survey of it, we landed on its lee side, where the water was quite smooth, and spent the afternoon in examining it. There were no natives on it, but every indication that it had been inhabited recently by a party of pearl-fishers. The lagoon appeared to be well supplied with pearl-oyster. We found on the island two small springs of fresh water, near its lagoon, and a good supply of cocoa-nuts. Many specimens of plants were obtained, and several interesting objects of natural history were added to our collections.

In the morning we bore away for Raraka, and shortly afterwards made it. As we approached it, another island was discovered, to the northward and westward, which was not laid down on any charts.

On Raraka we soon discovered a party of natives, near the entrance to the lagoon, waving a Tahitian flag, three horizontal stripes, red, white, and red. They were partly dressed, some in shirts, without hats, others with vests, and others again with trowsers of all colours. We landed at the entrance of the lagoon.

Nothing could be more striking than the difference that prevailed between these natives and those of the Disappointment Islands, which we had just left. The half-civilisation of the natives of Raraka was very marked, and it appeared as though we had issued out of darkness into light. They showed a modest disposition, and gave us a hearty welcome. We were not long at a loss as to what to ascribe it; the missionary had been at work here, and his exertions had been based upon a firm foundation; the savage had been changed to a reasonable creature. Among the inhabitants was a native missionary, who had been instrumental in this work. If the missionaries had effected nothing else, they would deserve the thanks of all those who roam over this wide expanse of ocean, and incur its many unknown and hidden dangers. Here all shipwrecked mariners would be sure of kind treatment, and a share of the few comforts these people possess. No savage mistrust and fear were seen here. The women and children came about us, receiving our trifles. They showed much joy and curiosity at the sight of us, and were eager to supply our wants.

I was particularly struck with the modest and quiet behaviour of the native missionary, who was a Tahitian. He kept himself aloof, whilst all the others were crowding round to partake in the presents we were distributing, and seemed much gratified and astonished when I selected him out as the recipient of a present similar to the one I had given the chief.

All the males' heads were shaven, somewhat after the fashion of a Dominican friar. This practice is said to have been adopted by the missionaries at Tahiti, for the sake of cleanliness, and also to distinguish the Christian from the heathen party. The women have theirs cut close, and some are clothed in a pareu, consisting of three or four yards of cotton, others in a loose gown. They were anything but good-looking; but the men were tall and well made. The variety of apparel was droll enough. As for the children, I have seldom seen page 122finer; all were well formed, and as cheerful as they could be. They were for the most part naked.

This was the first island on which we observed the dawning of Christianity and civilisation. The native missionaries, although they are yet ignorant of most of the duties enjoined upon a Christian, still do much good in preparing the way. Many learn to read, and some even to write, under their tuition; yet they have many impediments thrown in the way of their efforts by the introduction of spirits by the whites. The old chief, and others, are much addicted to the use of it, and the vessels resorting here for the pearlfishery generally employ native divers, and pay them for the most part in rum or whiskey. We found here an Englishman who had belonged to a schooner engaged in the pearl-fishery. He told me he had been left there sick by his captain, and had been kindly treated during his stay of three months on the island. I was in hopes of obtaining some information from him, but he knew little or nothing of the language, and was, moreover, a stupid fellow. I gave him a passage to Tahiti, whither he was desirous of going in the tender.

Having some business on board, I invited the chief to go off with me; he first inquired if all the boats and men were to stay; on my telling him they were not, he said he would go on board if I would also take his wife and her brother; to which I consented.

We all embarked, soon reached the tender, and bore away for the ship, some three or four miles distant. The old one-handed chief page 123now came up to me in a very mysterious manner, and, untying a knot in the tail of his shirt, (which was the only garment he wore besides his maro,) with no small difficulty, with one hand and his teeth, drew from it a small, dirty piece of linen, tied up as a bag; this he produced with great form, and evidently expected to astonish me. The contents proved to be a few small discoloured pearls; these he begged me to accept, but I declined to receive them. We now reached the ship, and I ordered everything to be shown them. Their surprise was very great.

The natives were much amused with the ship, and surprised at the number of men on board. Many small presents were given them. When they were about taking their departure, the old chief complained of being quite sick, and his whole air and manner showed that he was much dissatisfied. The reason could not be imagined. The vessel had so little motion, it was thought it could not originate from sea-sickness. I therefore told the interpreter to inquire of him what was the matter. No answer was given for some time, but they consulted much among themselves in a low tone. The question was repeated, when the old chief's wife answered, "that I had not returned the present that had been offered me, and that the chief was not pleased; for, according to their customs, the offering a present to me entitled him to receive one in return." As very many gifts had been made him already, this amused me not a little. On asking what it was they wanted, they at once signified whiskey. which they said was always given them when they went on board ship; and the chief wanted some, for he was very sick. I accordingly ordered a bottle of water with a gill of whiskey in it to be given them, and the moment they smelt it their manner was changed; they became all animation, and left the ship in great good humour. The brother was an intelligent native; he drew for me with a piece of chalk, on the deck, with considerable accuracy, all the islands he was acquainted with, giving their relative situations and the native names;-that of the island we had seen the day before, as Tai-a-ra, and the one to which I had given the name of Vincennes Island, as Kawahe. He informed me of three small islands to the southward of Sacken, which were afterwards found by the Porpoise, during the cruise to this group on which I sent her in 1840; his knowledge of the western part of this group was quite surprising.

This island is nearly of the shape of an equilateral triangle, and its southern and eastern sides are formed by a submerged reef. It is fifteen miles on each side.

We attempted to sound the lagoon, and began at the entrance, but found, within a very short distance, that the depth increased to thirty fathoms, the water being as blue as that of the ocean. So great a depth made it an undertaking far beyond what my time allowed. The sounding, in every case of any depth, was coral sand.

Towards sunset we all embarked, and my leave-taking with the old chief was amusing. He with all his household and retinue began to cry and whine over me, so that I was glad to escape from the display of so much friendship and parental affection.

page 124

This night we lay-to under the lee of Raraka; but as it proved dark and squally, we stood to the northward, and about one o'clock we were surprised by seeing a signal from the Peacock, of danger close aboard, under the lee. I immediately tacked, and we soon cleared it. It proved to be the reef of Kawahe, over which the surf was breaking violently. The Peacock was so close to it that Captain Hudson felt himself obliged to stand on his course, rather than run the risk of missing stays, and continued to run along it for several miles, until, by its trending to the westward, he was enabled to clear the danger.

After finishing our observations, we made sail for Aratica or Carlshoft Island. We arrived off it in time to secure its connection with Vincennes Island; the distance was found, by patent log and astronomical observations, to be twenty miles to the westward. The next morning, at daylight, we began its survey. Its southern side page 125is submerged until near its south-western end, which is twelve feethigh, and thickly wooded. On rounding the point, we saw a white flag waved by, several natives on the beach. I immediately dispatched a boat with an officer, who brought off two of the principal natives, one of whom spoke a little English, and proved intelligent. As the tattooing was somewhat peculiar, a drawing was made of one of them.

There were about twenty natives on the island, and they have had frequent intercourse with vessels. Aratica is eight miles in length by five in breadth.

The course of the squadron was shaped towards King George's Group. The next day, at noon, the most southern island was in sight, and finding the ships could not make it without much loss of time, I dispatched the tender to the group, with orders to circum-navigate and examine the islands; the Vincennes and Peacock bore away to the westward, for the doubtful island of Waterlandt. It was soon discovered from the masthead.

We reached its north point at four o'clock, p.m., when the Peacock was ordered to take the east, whilst the Vincennes took the west side; we continued the survey until dark. Many natives were seen, and smoke was rising in several places. On the 6th of September, we continued our surveying operations, and shortly afterwards joined the Peacock, Captain Hudson having completed his side of the island. The Peacock now made the signal of land to the westward. Wishing to land, and make an examination of this island, as well as to have communication with the natives, the boats were lowered, and the naturalists from both vessels, and many officers, landed, and rambled over the western part of the island for several hours. The few natives were very friendly, and informed us that the native name of the island was Manhii. This is, in all probability, the Waterlandt of Schouten and Le Maire, and also Wilson's Island of the Duff. There is a large and deep entrance in the south-east end into the lagoon of Manhii Island, in which the natives informed me vessels had often anchored, whilst engaged in the pearl-fishery. Soundings are not to be had with one hundred fathoms of line, fifty feet from the edge of it.

To our surprise, one of the men of the Peacock, by the name of Penny, here deserted from the boats. He had been formerly much among the islands, engaged in pearl-fishing, and spoke the language well. Strict search was made for him, until the officer in charge of the boats became satisfied that he had no intention of returning. On hearing of it, I was convinced that he had chosen this opportunity to leave us, particularly as he must have been aware that there is very frequent communication with Tahiti. The chief of this island informed us that he was a relative of the one-handed chief of Raraka.

Several of us had our feet severely blistered from going barefoot on the reefs, and were made very uncomfortable from this cause. After returning on board, we bore away to the other island, to which the natives gave the name of Ahii. I have also added that of Peacock Island, to mark that its correct position was first page 126established by the Expedition. It lies west three-fourths north per compass from Manhii, and was found to be eight and sis-tenths miles from reef to reef. On coming up with it, the Yincennes and Peacock took opposite sides, and surveyed it; and the next morning parties landed. I was hardly able to move, on account of my feet, but the desire of getting observations of the eclipse urged me to make the attempt; I only succeeded in getting the last limb and good observations for time. After four o'clock, we returned on board. This island is not inhabited, and has only a small boat-entrance into its lagoon, on the west side.

Being desirous of making the examination of as many of the coral islands as possible, I now dispatched the Peacock to the Arutua or Rurick Islands, with directions to examine them, and then to proceed along the south side of Dean's Island, whilst in the Vincennes I steered for the north side of the latter, to pass along it. We then parted company, and Dean's Island was made by us the next morning; we ran along the northern shore, and reached its western point at four, p.m. During the day we passed an entrance into its lagoon, and some natives came off from a small village in two canoes to visit us. They acknowledged themselves subjects of Queen Pomare, of Tahiti, and were very desirous we should land. They brought off a few shells, and told us they had many fowls, pigs, taro, &c. There are several islets in the lagoon covered with trees. Vast numbers of large blocks were seen lying on its reef. The shore-reef is not more than two hundred feet wide, and is composed of only one shelf. When off the western point we discovered Krusenstern's Island to the west, and hauled up to pass between it and Nairsa, The passage was found to be twelve and two-thirds miles wide, and free from all danger. In the evening I stood for Metia Island, to the southward. Nairsa or Dean's Island was found to be sixty-six miles in length.

On the morning of the 9th of September, we were in sight of Metia or Aurora Island. It was totally different in appearance from those we had met with, though evidently of the same formation. It was a coral island uplifted, exposing its formation distinctly, and, as such, was very interesting. On approaching its eastern end, I sounded at about one hundred and fifty feet from its perpendicular cliff, and found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. The cliff appeared worn into caverns. We landed close in its neighbourhood, and on measuring its height, it proved to be two hundred and fifty feet.

The same evening we bore away for Tahiti, at which island we arrived on the 10th. At five, p.m., Lieutenant-Commandant Ring-gold boarded us, and brought off Jim, the pilot; he reported all well on board the Porpoise. At sunset, we anchored in Matavai Bay. I hastened to ascertain the correctness of our chronometers, and the next day landed the instruments on Point Venus, and took observations. They gave for its longitude 149° 31' l3.5" W. Krusenstern makes it 149° 29' 17" W.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, in the Porpoise, after parting company on the 1st of September, proceeded to the south side of page 127Raraka, in fulfilment of his instructions. He found the whole southern part of it a bare reef, with the surf breaking violently over it. When off the south point, he made the isle of Katiu or Sacken to the south, and that of Makima to the east, and connected them; after which he proceeded to the westward, passing Aratica (Carlshoff), and thence to Nairsa, or Dean's Island, which he made on the 5th; fixed its western end, passed along its south to its western side, and thence to Krusenstern's Island, to the westward, which he circumnavigated; from thence went direct to Tahiti, anchored in Papieti Harbour on the 9th, and the next day proceeded to Matavai Bay, the place of rendezvous.

On the 12th the Peacock arrived, having passed to the Rurick Islands or Arutua, the north, end of which lies in latitude 15° 15' 00" S., longitude 146° 51' 00" W. A landing was attempted at several places in the boats. One of them succeeded near a cocoa-nut grove, but the two that went to land at the village found the surf too high to attempt it.

The north shore of Arutua Island was surveyed, when they bore away, and connected it with Nairsa, or Dean's Island, along which they ran the whole length of its south side by daylight. The last named island is, for the most part, a washed reef, with no opening. The compact coral blocks snowed themselves here more conspicuously, and in greater numbers than before seen.

After making the west end of Nairsa, Captain Hudson sighted Krusenstern's Island, and then stood for Metia Island, to the south-ward, on which the officers landed the next day on its western side. Their examination confirmed the facts already given relative to its appearance.

The next day they made Tetuaroa, to the northward of Tahiti, formerly celebrated as the resort of the Tahitians, for the purpose of recovering from the bodily diseases brought on by their debaucheries, &c. It is a low island, about six miles long, with a few trees upon it, and a reef off its southern end, extending half a mile. It is plainly to be seen from the high ridges of Tahiti.

On the 14th the Flying-Fish arrived. She had visited and surveyed King George's Group, which appeared well inhabited, and have entrances to their lagoons on the west side. The native names of the two islands are Tiokea and Oura. Oura bears S. 68° W., distant four and a half miles. Then the tender passed to Manhii and Ahii, round the north side of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, to Tahiti.

Little appears to be known of the history of the Paumotu Islands, or their inhabitants. At Tahiti, I obtained some information from one who had been much among the group, and believe that it is as authentic as can be obtained, and may be relied on.

The Island of Anaa, or Chain Island, has been the principal seat of power, the natives of which had frequently waged war on the others, and succeeded in conquering all to the west of Hau, or Bow Island, with which they have frequently fought.

In the reign of the first Pomare, under Tomatiti, they even attempted the conquest of Tahiti, and succeeded in overcoming the page 128small peninsula of Taiarabu. The story is, that they were about to continue their attack on the larger island, when Tomatiti received a written letter from Pomare, which caused hostilities to be suspended; and, after further negociation, finally led to Tomatiti's retiring from the island with a large present of hogs, tapa, &c. Notwithstanding this, the Chain Islanders remained nominally under the government of Tahiti, and now acknowledge their dependance on it.

Anaa or Chain Island is one of the smallest, yet it is the most thickly populated island of the whole group. It is said to contain five thousand inhabitants, which large number is accounted for by the conquest of the other islands, and taking their inhabitants off as captives. In the list of the islands and their population, it will be seen how few remain on the other islands in comparison with this number. The whole island is one cocoa-nut grove, and the principal food is fish and cocoa-nuts. The former are caught in large quantities in the lagoon. A great change has been brought about in the character of these islanders within the last twentyfive years, during which the Tahitian missionaries have been established at Anaa. Before this period, the inhabitants were cannibals. Since the residence of the missionaries, they have imbibed better tastes; and the Christian influence has also made them more peaceful. This change was first evinced by the treatment of their captives, whom they allowed to return, if they chose, to their own island; but very many of them had married at Anaa, and became permanent residents there, and few have taken advantage of the permission to return. Notwithstanding the numerous population, they are said to have an abundance of food. The people of Anaa still consider the inhabitants of the eastern islands as cannibals; but their statement in this respect is little to be depended upon, for they have no communication whatever with those whom they class under this denomination, seldom extending themselves beyond Hau or Bow Island.

The Paumotuans are considered more warlike than the Tahitians, for which reason Pomare I. kept a body-guard of them in preference to his own subjects. They have the reputation of being an honest and trustworthy race.

These islanders are certainly not all from the same stock: and those of the Disappointment Group, whom we were much struck with at the time of our visit, in particular differ from the others. Since we have seen all the different Polynesian groups, these appear, however extraordinary it may be, to resemble the Feejee Islanders more than any other.

By all accounts, they speak a different dialect from that of the Tahitian nation. The difference is, however, not great, for I was told that it required but a few weeks for any of the natives to acquire it. Mr. Hale met several Paumotuans at Matavai Bay, and among them he found one by the name of Tuoni, who confirmed the accounts I have detailed above.

The advancement of civilisation, by their intercourse with the whites, together with the missionary influence, will put an end to cannibalism, and promote peace among all the islanders of the group; not only ameliorating the condition of the natives, but protecting the unfortunate mariner who may be wrecked within this dangerous archipelago.

From what has been said of the Paumotu Group, it is evident it can afford but few advantages for commercial enterprise; the only article which of late years has been sought for among the islands is the pearl oyster-shell, of which considerable quantities have been obtained. The vessels engaged in the fishery belong to foreigners, who reside at Tahiti. The mode of taking the oysters is by natives, who are employed as divers, for a very small compensation. It is much to be regretted, that the traders should have recourse to the demoralising effects of spirits in stimulating their exertions.